How do you identify a plant's flowers? A guide to recognizing plant flowers
Plants bloom in order to bear fruit, and the fruit contains seeds. The seeds fall to the ground and grow again, and in this way the plant's life is propagated. This method of reproduction is called sexual reproduction. Of course, some plants can also be propagated by cuttings, or by burying their tubers in the soil.
A plant's flower is made up of parts such as the calyx, the receptacle, the petals and the stamens and pistils. A flower that has all of these parts is called a complete flower, but the flowers of many plants are not complete.
The stamens and pistils are distinct. Some plants have flowers that contain both pistils and stamens, such as the flowers of peach trees, tomatoes and rapeseed; but some plants have flowers with only pistils or only stamens, such as the flowers of corn, pumpkin and cucumber. Some plants are monoecious, such as corn, pumpkin and castor bean, with a single plant bearing both male and female flowers; some plants are dioecious, such as ginkgo, mulberry and asparagus, with a single plant bearing only male flowers or only female flowers.
At the tip of the stamen is the anther, which produces pollen grains. At the tip of the pistil is the stigma, which is connected to the ovary through the style.
Please pick a flower to observe. Is it a complete flower? Does it have a pistil? Does it have stamens?
The stigma secretes a sticky substance, and when pollen grains land on the stigma, they are stuck fast. The pollen grains are then stimulated to grow a pollen tube, and at the same time develop two sperm cells inside the tube. The pollen tube gradually elongates, and after entering the ovule, one sperm cell fuses with the egg cell to form the embryo, while the other sperm cell fuses with other cells in the ovule to form the endosperm that stores nutrients.
A guide to recognizing plant seeds
A mature seed is composed of the seed coat, the embryo and the endosperm. The embryo is composed of the radicle, the plumule, the hypocotyl and the cotyledons. Some plant seeds have endosperm, such as corn, wheat and rice. In some plant seeds the endosperm degenerates, and the nutrients within it are transferred to the cotyledons, such as in beans.Soak soybean or broad bean seeds in water overnight, and after the seed coat splits, break open the two cotyledons and identify which part is the plumule, which is the radicle, and which is the hypocotyl.
The cycle of life in nature
Humans and animals eat plants, and their droppings and bodies return to the soil, and the withered branches and fallen leaves of plants also return to the soil; the microorganisms, fungi and earthworms in the soil decompose these remains of animals and plants, turning them into nutrients that plants can absorb; plants absorb water and these nutrients from the soil, grow, and provide food for humans and animals.
If any link in this cycle goes wrong, it will cause disorder in the entire system and give rise to many headache-inducing problems.
A master's guide to recognizing living stones
There are many articles about living stones, but if you were to read only one article, then I would recommend the following one to you. The author Jiang Fengliao, in a vivid style, relates in an engaging way his many years of experience in getting to know living stones. After reading it, you will like living stones even more, and understand them even better.In the world of Aizoaceae, species are abundant, endlessly varied in form, and ceaselessly reproducing. Through the course of hundreds and thousands of years, Aizoaceae plants, with their indomitable nature, whether in a state of dormancy or mimicry, strive to fill countless life-forbidden zones in this world. Beneath the blazing sun, upon the yellow sand, alongside barrenness, coexisting with the sun and moon. One imagines that such a being must be a spirit of the wilderness; having left its homeland and been confined to a tiny spot is already an offense, and to not treat it well would go against all propriety... As Confucius said: You are not the fish, how do you know the joy of the fish?
I. Getting to know living stones
The family Aizoaceae belongs to the class Dicotyledoneae, order Caryophyllales, and the entire family has about 126 genera, of which living stones are only one. They are mainly distributed in southern Africa, but according to the literature there are also small distributions in Australia and the central Pacific region. This genus is the representative species of the term "mimicry" in the process of biological evolution. Mimicry, that is, camouflage, blending into the surrounding environment, to passively resist the onslaught of the natural world. The leaves of living stones are opposite, fleshy and round, and their surfaces have different patterns and colors depending on the place of origin. For example: varieties native to woodland and meadow areas have green or grayish-green surfaces, to match the dominant color tone of the environment. Varieties native to hills and mountainous areas largely display yellow and brown. Finally, those native to exposed environments such as sand and rock piles are mostly white or grayish-white, which, besides matching the color tone of the environment, also serve to reflect sunlight and lower their "body temperature".
Speaking of place of origin and body surface color, everyone should understand the principle being explained here, but I will not discuss it for now.
The suitable growth temperature for living stones is 10-35 degrees; when the daily average temperature is below 10 degrees they grow slowly; above 35 degrees, they enter protective dormancy; but if the nighttime temperature is below 30 degrees, even if the daytime rises to 50 degrees, as long as they do not rot, their growth rate is still considerable.
Living stones, whether old or young, all have a distinct taproot. In horticultural cultivation, the frequent root pruning carried out to speed up growth, although it causes the taproot to be indistinct, will always become apparent after the accumulation of stable planting over time. Moreover, it will eventually form a relatively massive nodal tissue at the junction of the stem, which is what we call the old root.
The latitude of the native habitat of living stones is roughly equivalent to that of China's Yangtze River basin (the values for south latitude and north latitude are similar), but because it is located in Africa, which is vast and sparsely populated, the heat island effect is not obvious. At the same time, because the coastlines on the east and west sides of South Africa are relatively close, under the synchronous effect of the maritime climate, the annual average temperature of the native habitat is substantially lower than that of China's Yangtze River basin. It also has the characteristic of a large diurnal temperature difference within a single day.
Living stones begin to flower at four years of age. The flower buds begin to differentiate in mid-autumn, and the process is slow, taking about 15-20 days to bloom fully; the flowering period is 6-7 days, and if pollination is successful, they wither immediately. The seed pod appears at the base of the flower and gradually enlarges as the flower withers, initially green in color, gradually turning red, until it becomes dry and yellow. The fruit development process is extremely slow, and it only fully matures around May of the following year. The seeds inside then have another half-year of after-ripening, and fully mature by October.
In their native habitat, living stones have only one season of dormancy, that is, the winter of the Southern Hemisphere. Local winters have little rain, and the extreme low nighttime temperatures are below the tolerance limit of living stones in normal growth. Therefore, after flowering, in order to prevent freeze damage, living stones let their old leaves shrivel and dry up in winter, and develop new leaves at the growth point at the stem position below the soil surface, in order to stage a comeback. When spring comes the following year and the flowers bloom and the season of abundant rain arrives, the fully developed new leaves accelerate their growth, breaking through the old skin to become a new plant.
Under normal circumstances, living stones will split their heads at 5-6 years of age, which is equivalent to lateral buds. The frequency and number of head splits is, in theory, geometric, that is, 1 becomes 2, 2 becomes 4. In actual practice, it varies due to differences in environment and nutritional status; dry environments and healthy plants will have a higher probability of head splitting, while harsh environments and sufficient luck will cause the number of head splits to grow in a "mouse-like" progression.
II. The past and present of living stones
Living stones originated in South Africa, were first introduced in Europe and America, were horticulturally developed in Japan, and have grown in China.
European and American enthusiasts are known for introducing and propagating them to preserve their bloodlines, and professional greenhouse propagation adopts a one-to-one model, strictly limiting cross-species hybridization. The famous Cole numbering also represents the rigorous attitude of Europeans and Americans.
Japanese horticulturists are skilled at hybrid selection and breeding. After non-directional hybridization, they often sow in units of ten thousand, and after several years select a small number with special appearance as mother plants, then begin directional pollination and selection. This cycle repeats until the genes of the new variety are stable. Yasuhiko Shimada, by virtue of his accumulation of more than 50 years of hybrid breeding of living stones, is worthy of the title of the leading authority on Japanese living stones.
Mainland flower growers take quantity as the main line, use vegetable plots as the carrier, aim to carry forward and glorify endangered plants, and through the means of wholesale purchasing large quantities of European and American seeds for sowing, in units of a million. They have pushed living stones, this endangered plant of its native habitat, onto the red line of an invasive species, completely overturning the previous unfavorable situation of one plant, one price, and thereby creating the excellent situation of living stones being sold by the jin.
III. Getting to know the cultivation of living stones
It is generally believed that succulents need little water and much sun, and living stones are the same. In fact, in the process of cultivation, the little water for living stones and the much sun for living stones are both relative.
The suspense that was not discussed above has already explained the reason.
First, different places of origin have different water requirements and degrees of sunlight. For example, Purple Smoke and Reticulate, whose body surface colors are darker, are mostly native to meadows or under forests, and themselves have a relatively high demand for water; timely watering is what ensures healthy growth. As for light, long diffuse light or half-day sun is fine.
While light-colored varieties such as Fulai and Otsu-e are mostly native to high mountains or even rock-covered areas, and watering until dry then soaking thoroughly is a flood for them; 1-2 waterings a month is enough. As for light, they need relatively strong full sun.
Second, there is the physiological relationship. For the same living stone, during the growing season water more, on cool days water more; during the flowering period water less, on hot days water less; during the skin-shedding period cut off water, during the dormant period cut off water. As for sunlight, would you try to keep an Otsu-e in full sun throughout a 40-degree hot day?
Speaking of hot days, there is a concept that must be instilled in everyone here. Because living stones have a small surface area, and their juicy internal physiological structure has a rather strong effect on accumulating heat, while the water-locking ability of the outer skin makes it very difficult for them to dissipate their internal temperature. Especially when the outside is in a high-temperature environment, the internal temperature of living stones is often much higher than the air temperature, and much physiological rotting starts from here. Therefore, ventilation is something that must be considered throughout the entire process of growing living stones, and a fan is the most cost-effective solution.
Living stones are plants for the lazy, but they are also plants that test one's cultivation skills. How to grow a single one, and how to grow a group, is very particular. Overall, the mnemonic is as follows:
For pots, prefer small over large,
For soil, prefer plain over mixed;
When planting, prefer shallow over deep,
Top dressing is not only for beauty;
Single planting is not as good as group planting,
When group planting, pay attention to spacing;
Master the habits of the variety,
Mixed planting easily gives rise to trouble.
The above is explained as follows:
1. A small pot can easily create a fast-drying environment, which is convenient for the plant's root growth.
2. Plain soil will spare you a lot of troubles such as root burn from too much fertilizer and bacterial reproduction.
3. The pathological and physiological rotting of living stones mostly starts from the growth point, that is, the stem, or what is called the neck, so this position needs to breathe.
4. Connected with the above; the neck needs to breathe, but if it is not planted into the soil, what do you do when the plant topples over? This needs top dressing to solve. A top dressing of granular lightweight stone can perfectly resolve this contradiction.
5. Living stones are clump-forming plants. Whether above or below the soil surface, they need to create a local micro-environment for themselves to ensure healthy growth. Group planting can serve as a solution before the plants have formed a clump.
6. The spacing in group planting is to ensure that each plant has enough space for root growth and to ensure heat dissipation and ventilation in hot, humid weather.
7. When mixed planting multiple varieties, pay attention to the habits of the varieties; what needs to be considered is the difference in water requirement and sunlight requirement, not the visual effect.
IV. Getting to know soil
The study of soil is profound. Old Jiang has looked into the introductions and explanations of soil in many professional books, but what left the deepest impression was still the interpretation of soil in an article about planting written by a Christian for the church - qualified soil should be alive, with large amounts of beneficial bacteria decomposing organic matter within it and producing nutrients that plants can absorb. Among these, organic matter and beneficial bacteria are indispensable keys...
Now look again at the soil we use now: akadama, kanuma, hyuga, lightweight stone... almost all are composed of inorganic minerals, and because they have undergone high-temperature sterilization, organic matter and beneficial bacteria are long gone. The Japanese-style granular planting that beginners generally believe in is often a case of knowing the what but not the why. This is rather like how a horticulturist will very generously let you visit his plantation, and will also ignore you flipping through his potting soil. But you absolutely must not think of looking at the miscellaneous shelf in his greenhouse, because inside there are many secrets that can explain why someone else's flowers can grow big in akadama soil, while your akadama soil can only keep them alive.
In European and American cultivation, materials such as peat and maifan stone are used in large proportions. In fact, the physical effect is similar to Japanese-style cultivation; it is simply that peat contains large amounts of organic matter and humus. And maifan stone plays the role of draining and drying quickly.
In previous articles, Old Jiang once explained the various benefits of Japanese-style granules. Admittedly, for beginners, keeping them alive is the key, but one must not be dogmatic about everything; reading a book to death is worse than not reading at all. Only by constantly thinking in combination with the experiences and lessons from one's own cultivation can one develop in one's cultivation level. For example, regarding the principle just mentioned that akadama soil does not make them grow big, if you add some organic matter such as peat to it, you can very easily solve this. As for the amount to add, because individual environments and techniques differ, you can start experimenting from the smallest ratio. It is recommended to start from 10%.
V. Getting to know flower vessels
A flower vessel is the dwelling of the plant, the container that carries the life medium on which it depends for growth, and also a tool for creating a beautiful and tidy cultivation environment.
From the perspective of cultivation, a flower vessel must have a stable physical and chemical structure, a suitable size, and be insulated and breathable, among which breathability is the key. The roots of any plant need large amounts of oxygen to maintain the operation of their physiological mechanisms, even aquatic plants. And for living stones, they also need an environment in which air convection through the pot from top to bottom ensures the soil dries quickly, and this places a higher demand on the flower vessel.
Generally speaking, in the current domestic enthusiast circle, S5 seedling trays or 7CM black square pots and other flower vessels are commonly used as the permanent planting pots for living stones, while a small number of high-grade varieties or clump-forming plants will be considered for frosted pots. But there are also a small number of stream-of-consciousness flower friends who, driven by visual-effect obsessive-compulsive disorder, will use large numbers of colored porcelain pots or handmade ceramic pots for planting.
As for porcelain pots and ceramic pots and the like, since most of their users love the environment more than they love the plants, I will refrain from criticizing them for now, and we will still discuss some of the flower vessels commonly used by enthusiasts.
Judging from experience, living stones under 5 years of age grow best in soil less than 7CM deep, and their root systems are the most developed. For example, planting them directly in a group in an S5 has an effect noticeably better than merely using it as a storage tray (that is, planting in black square pots and then gathering them in an S5). Although from appearances the second method seems more refined, compared with direct planting the soil height is increased by a great deal, its breathability and fast-drying performance have been greatly reduced, and the extension of the root system and the swelling of the taproot are noticeably inferior to direct planting.
Furthermore, a pot of suitable depth can prevent the taproot of living stones from growing excessively. A taproot extending out of the bottom of the pot will be naturally root-pruned by the action of the air, thereby making the fibrous roots in the pot flourish and the base of the taproot swell rapidly. The plant's growth rate and resistance will thereby be greatly improved. After all, what we are discussing is still horticultural cultivation, and growth rate should still be an important indicator to pay attention to.
Finally, we must emphasize that a pot with holes only at the bottom is far from enough for living stones. A single small hole at the bottom of a porcelain pot or ceramic pot can only ensure that water does not accumulate; as for convection and breathability, that is a vain hope. Analyzing with data, a qualified permanent planting pot for living stones should have an area of breathable openings at the bottom of 20% or more of the pot surface area, or more, in order to fully ensure air convection from top to bottom. Even a section of drainpipe cut short to 10CM is very suitable for growing living stones.
VI. Getting to know yourself
Cultivation is a verb, which shows that in the process of cultivation, the true protagonist is actually the cultivator himself, and the plant is merely a recipient.
The environment, techniques, and even the choice of flower vessels and media that we usually pay attention to are all, without exception, human factors. Whether a plant is healthy or not, in a man-made environment, can no longer use the natural state of its native habitat as the condition for thinking about and judging cultivation methods. People often say that living stones suffer so much hardship and endure so much hunger and thirst in nature, and so on, and the conclusion drawn from this is that living stones are very tough and can be grown casually.
Yes, living stones have very strong vitality, but the premise is that the cultivator must abide by the laws of nature. What kind of environment and techniques there should be in the growing season, and what kind of environment and techniques there should be in the dormant season, must strictly follow a fixed format in order to ensure that your living stones can be reborn from the ashes after being pecked by wild birds, bitten by pets, or falling from a flower stand.
The advice here is to keep your hands in check - look at the flowers without using your hands; this is an effective rule for becoming a great master (but it does not include the occasional technical maneuver of helping an etiolated Lifuren shed its skin).
The way to keep your hands in check can be shackles, or it can be learning: understanding the habits of the plants, understanding the experiences and lessons of other enthusiasts, and thereby learning to think and helping yourself build confidence. In this way, your hands will not have too many reasons to reach toward the flower pot.