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How to propagate tea plants by asexual cuttings? A detailed explanation of the practical technical points

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1. Propagation preparation (1) Seedbed selection. Choose a plot with fertile soil, sufficient water, good drainage, convenient transportation, easy access to materials for building a shade shed, on gentle sloping land, and sheltered from the wind. (2) Seedbed preparation. The seedbed is 1.2 m wide and 5 cm high, with the length determined by the terrain, and the bed ditch about 40 cm wide. The top layer of the seedbed is covered with 5 cm of fine red soil (sterile soil), moistened with water, and then flattened with a wooden board. (3) Building the shade shed. Use 70% or 50% shade netting, with the shed 1.6-2 m high, plant 1

1. Propagation preparation (1) Seedbed selection. Choose a plot with fertile soil, sufficient water, good drainage, convenient transportation, easy access to materials for building a shade shed, on gentle sloping land, and sheltered from the wind. (2) Seedbed preparation. The seedbed is 1.2 m wide and 5 cm high, with the length determined by the terrain, and the bed ditch about 40 cm wide. The top layer of the seedbed is covered with 5 cm of fine red soil (sterile soil), moistened with water, and then flattened with a wooden board. (3) Building the shade shed. Use 70% or 50% shade netting, with the shed 1.6-2 m high, plant 1 post every 2-3 m, and set up the shade netting. The shade shed must be built before planting the seedlings. Miscanthus or Shanbai grass can also be used to build the shade shed. 2. Propagation (1) Select the current-year branches of the disease-resistant Yunnan Yunhang No. 10 tea plant as planting material, with each bud as one plant, leave a 3.5 cm long stem below the leaf surface, cut it diagonally at a 30-degree angle facing the leaf surface, and keep half or 3/5 of the leaf. The stem above the leaf surface only needs to be left 0.5-1 cm long. Soak the base of the cutting 2-3 cm into a mixed solution made of 5 g of quick-acting rooting agent and 100 g of water for 5-10 seconds. As shown in Figures 1 and 2. (2) Insert the cuttings. With a plant spacing of 2 cm and a row spacing of 5 cm, hold the base of the bud with the thumb and index finger, with the leaf surface facing outward, and insert them one by one. The insertion depth should be such that the thumb and index finger are close to the seedbed surface, and the leaf surface must face upward. As shown in Figure 3. (3) Cutting season: August-October is the best cutting season, and by May-June of the following year the seedlings can leave the shed. 3. Management of cuttings (1) Watering. Keep the soil moist. Generally, within 60 days after cutting, spray water according to the seedbed moisture. Press the seedbed with a finger; if it springs back, no spraying is needed, but if it does not spring back, water must be sprayed, and the seedbed must not crack. (2) New buds that emerge within 30 days after cutting must be removed to avoid affecting root formation at the base. (3) Spraying pesticides and fertilizing. After cutting, use dimethoate or methamidophos diluted to a 1:500 concentration for a comprehensive spray. Generally, asexual cuttings will also develop new roots at around 60 days, so generally at 60-70 days spray diluted urea at 500 times, and the amount must absolutely not be exceeded. After that, spray urea 2-3 times per month. Afterward, pay attention to observing the seedling condition, and determine water, fertilizer, and pesticide according to the seedlings.

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