How to grow the golden fruit (nipplefruit)? Detailed care tips

Nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum)

Also known as multi-headed eggplant, five-fingered eggplant, frankincense eggplant, golden fruit, and five generations under one roof, it belongs to the Solanaceae family, Solanum genus. It is a perennial small shrub, often grown as an annual, native to the tropical regions of the Americas. It likes a warm, humid and sunny environment. The optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and it has some cold tolerance, able to withstand low temperatures of 3-4°C. It has no strict requirements for soil and also tolerates poor soil, but deep, humus-rich sandy loam is best.

The plant height is 1-1.5 m. It blooms successively from June to December, with purple flowers, and the fruit is green, turning bright golden yellow when ripe. It is usually propagated by sowing. Sowing is done in April-May when the temperature is 18-20°C. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water for 1 day, cover with a suitable amount of soil after sowing, and keep moist; germination and emergence take about 10 days. When the seedlings have grown 6-8 true leaves and are about 1.5 cm tall, pot them up; the growing medium should be loose, fertile sandy soil. During the growing period, water more to keep the potting soil moist. Apply a dilute nitrogen fertilizer once every 10-15 days to the seedlings, and increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer during the bud stage. After growing to 25-30 cm tall, pinch the tips 2-3 times to encourage branching and more fruit. It likes a sunny, warm and humid environment. The optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and in winter it can withstand low temperatures of 3-4°C.

The nipplefruit fruit is peculiar and brightly colored. The fruiting period can last from July to February of the following year, as long as 8 months, without changing color or shrinking, shining with golden light, symbolizing high fortune, five generations under one roof, and good luck. It is an excellent fruit-viewing plant for autumn and winter, especially during Christmas, New Year's Day and the Spring Festival. Besides being grown as a fruit-viewing potted plant, nipplefruit is also a very popular fruit-viewing cut flower material.

10 fiery fruit-viewing plants to bring you rolling wealth and good luck

Winterberry

After the winterberry drops its leaves, the small red berries hang all over the branches, very eye-catching, revealing a New Year atmosphere everywhere. Cut a few branches and put them in a vase, and they can be enjoyed for as long as two months.

Care methods:

Winterberry likes light and can also tolerate partial shade. It likes a warm and humid environment and can grow in most of our regions. During the growing period, pruning is generally not needed; just let it grow naturally. After the leaves drop, organic fertilizer can be applied to promote even branch growth.

(Image source: Xiaoyi Lily Floral Art)

Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia) 

As the Spring Festival approaches, the most commonly sold plant in flower markets is coral ardisia. The abundant red berries are concentrated at the base of the plant, quite eye-catching, fully displaying wealth and honor and an auspicious, festive scene.

Care tips:

1. Coral ardisia likes a warm and humid environment. When caring for it in winter, the temperature must not fall below minus 4 degrees; in northern regions it must overwinter indoors.

2. Coral ardisia has no strict light requirements. In winter it can be kept in sufficient light, while in summer it needs to be placed where there is no direct sunlight.

3. If you want coral ardisia to have a short, sturdy plant shape, you can spray an appropriate amount of chlormequat during summer shoot growth to inhibit growth.

Jerusalem cherry

(Author: hzxizhu nature. Source: Sina Blog)

The fruit of Jerusalem cherry is orange-red and can remain on the plant from early winter until after the Spring Festival, with a very long ornamental period. One point to note is that the fruit of Jerusalem cherry is for viewing only and must not be eaten. Gardeners must pay attention.

Care tips:

1. Jerusalem cherry likes loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam. When potting, an appropriate amount of cake fertilizer, chicken or duck manure, etc. can be added to the bottom of the pot to promote healthy growth.

2. During the growing period of Jerusalem cherry, it is best to keep the soil moist. Loosen the soil and fertilize once every half month, and ensure sufficient light. Continuous pinching and tip removal can promote the sprouting of side branches.

3. When Jerusalem cherry is flowering, stop fertilizing, control watering, and do not spray water either, so as not to wash off the pollen. When the fruit grows to the size of a mung bean, normal watering and fertilizing frequency can be resumed.

Fingered citron

Fingered citron, also called five-fingered mandarin, is the fruit of the fingered citron. It is golden yellow in color, strongly fragrant, and peculiarly shaped like a hand, with a thousand postures and full of charm.

(Author: Education Dream in the Distance  Source: Sina Blog)

Care methods:

1. Watering is a key part of managing fingered citron well. Because its root system is shallow and its absorption capacity is relatively weak, care should be taken to water frequently.

2. After autumn begins, the amount of watering can gradually be reduced. During the low-temperature period in winter, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist. When it is in the flowering and early fruiting stage, watering should not be excessive, to prevent heavy flower and fruit drop.

3. Fingered citron has no seeds and can be propagated by grafting, cuttings and other methods. When propagated by grafting, the growth is robust. Outdoor planting is generally cuttings in spring and summer, while indoor planting can be cuttings in all four seasons.

Nipplefruit

Nipplefruit, also known as golden fruit, etc., has beautiful fruit shapes. Especially after the leaves drop in winter, the abundant golden fruits are dazzling and eye-catching, and the fruit-viewing period is very long, from the end of September to March of the following year. Nipplefruit is an auspicious plant, symbolizing five blessings arriving at the door, gold and jade filling the hall, and endless descendants.

Care methods:

1. Nipplefruit likes a warm, humid and sunny environment. The optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and it can withstand low temperatures of 3-4°C. It fears waterlogging and drought.

2. Nipplefruit has no strict requirements for soil. It grows best in deep, loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil.

3. During the seedling stage of nipplefruit, apply more nitrogen fertilizer, applying liquid fertilizer once every half month. After flowering and fruit set, mainly use phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, or spray a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution on the leaves, to make the fruit plump and the seeds full.

Kumquat

(Author: The Most Romantic Thing  Source: NetEase Blog)

Kumquat fruits are golden yellow and pleasantly fragrant, with a long fruiting period. It is also an excellent ornamental potted plant for winter and spring, implying good luck and bringing in wealth, and is deeply loved by people.

(Author: The Most Romantic Thing  Source: NetEase Blog)

Care methods:

1. Kumquat likes light. When caring for it, it must be placed in a sunny place. If light is insufficient, it easily causes leggy branches and leaves and fruit drop.

2. When caring for it indoors in winter, the best temperature is one at which it does not freeze. If the temperature is too high, the plant cannot fully enter dormancy, and the next year's growth will be weak, making it prone to flower and fruit drop.

3. Kumquat likes moisture, but the potting soil must not become waterlogged. Excessive moisture easily causes root rot.

(Author: The Most Romantic Thing  Source: NetEase Blog)

Nandina

(Author: Ying  Source: NetEase Blog)

Nandina has an elegant plant shape and bright, beautiful fruit. Placed on a windowsill or in the living room, it is very beautiful.

(Author: Ying  Source: NetEase Blog)

Care tips:

1. Water nandina by the principle of drying then watering. In dry seasons, water frequently to keep the soil moist. In winter, water mostly at noon.

2. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaves to prevent dry leaf tips from affecting its appearance.

3. Nandina has strong adaptability to light. When cared for indoors, place it in a place with bright light as much as possible, such as the living room, windowsill, bedroom, etc.

(Author: Ying  Source: NetEase Blog)

Ornamental pepper

(Author: Gu Likun  Source: China Digital Photography Association)

Ornamental pepper has rich and varied colors: yellow, purple, white, red, colorful and lovable. Decorating the living room or kitchen with it is very charming.

Care tips:

Ornamental pepper is not cold-tolerant. It likes a warm and humid environment. Ensure sufficient light. If the indoor temperature is suitable and care is proper, ornamental pepper can continue to bloom, and extending the fruit-viewing period to the New Year is no problem at all.

Nertera

Red-fruited nertera, also called pearl orange, etc., is an evergreen herbaceous plant. It is a potted fruit-viewing plant that has become popular in recent years. The spherical berries are brightly colored, like pearls, and can be placed on a windowsill or coffee table for several months.

Care tips:

1. Nertera likes a cool, shady and humid environment, and is not tolerant of drought or high temperatures. It likes bright indirect light and avoids strong direct sunlight. It likes a cool climate, and grows best at temperatures between 10 and 16 degrees.

2. The soil is best if fertile, rich in humus and well-drained sandy soil. For potting, a common mix is 1 part leaf mold, 2 parts fertile garden soil and 1 part river sand.

3. If you want abundant flowering and fruiting, you must increase humidity and sprinkle water around the plant. From flowering to fruit ripening, lightly spray the plant with water 1 to 2 times a day, but be careful not to let water accumulate between the leaves.

Pyracantha

Pyracantha's red fruit does not wither through winter and has very high ornamental value. It can be used for landscaping and also enjoyed as a bonsai.

Care tips:

1. If you want pyracantha to have abundant flowers and fruit, you must ensure proper water and fertilizer. Water by the principle of drying then watering, and ensure sufficient sunlight and a well-ventilated environment.

2. Pyracantha bonsai kept indoors for viewing in winter must have ventilation; the temperature must not be too high, and light must be sufficient, otherwise it easily causes leaf drop.

Gardeners, have you bought fruit-viewing plants this year?

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower Planting Manual (February edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, peacock flower, petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc. At the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of magnolia, michelia, photinia, maple, and crabapple (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as camphor tree, tulip tree, privet, coral ardisia, pyracantha, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summer sweetshrub, wisteria, etc. need to be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), nandina, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine orange, serissa, hibiscus, hypericum (plum), spiraea, mahonia, boxwood types, and hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and trumpet creeper can also be cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cuttings indoors in February include: Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), shrimp plant begonia, red-back eupatorium, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, chloranthus, fingered citron, jade plant, jade leaf, echeveria, graptopetalum, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, pilea, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, schefflera, Chinese evergreen, cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Japanese black pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film to keep warm and moist. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and wedge-graft to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In regions south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and wedge-graft to propagate excellent cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti' wintersweet; using bagging and inflating measures to retain moisture gives a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock scion, and wedge-graft or cleft-graft scions of excellent rose cultivars; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cuttings, then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, spectabilis, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, weigela, Buddhist pine, cypress, snowball, viburnum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hypericum, hydrangea, snowflake spiraea, red maple, michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, variegated lilyturf, reineckea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tulip, bromeliads, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant types, kalanchoe, canna, arrowroot, monstera, syngonium, bird of paradise, clivia, aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: nandina, cotton rose, hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, spectabilis, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, snowflake spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo, and dwarf white bamboo, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of nandina, holly types, coral ardisia, Jerusalem cherry, etc. can be harvested. After processing, carry out sand stratification to promote germination. Sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any seeds have molded. If mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown by dibbling, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus types, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, pot marigold, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among the deciduous types are hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple types, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), magnolia types, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, three-pronged, deutzia, pagoda tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, plum, elm-leaved spiraea, hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as michelia types, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, purple nanmu, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Shu cypress, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., when planted, should be given moderate pruning.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so work to retain moisture and protect against cold should continue carefully. If the greenhouse or plastic tunnel has heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang them; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are sunned, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers grown in small quantities at home, such as Milan, Phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, syngonium, iron cross begonia, croton, pink butterfly, etc., in especially cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because the temperature in February is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, flower buds to stop growing, and in severe cases leaves to shrink and wrinkle, flower buds to shrink and drop. For plants such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, Jerusalem cherry, etc., bud and fruit drop, or even death, may all occur. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as pyracantha, nandina, bitter orange, fingered citron, lemon, coral ardisia, four-season mandarin, Jerusalem cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds and fruit must also be sprayed with water, so that the leaves can be emerald green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruit can be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, spectabilis, hall crabapple, etc. placed in tunnels for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered cymbidium purchased after being grown in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although most potted flowers do not need much water in February, inspection should be strengthened. Especially when the temperature continues to rise for several consecutive days, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened promptly.

   In February, for landscaping trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, promptly supplement watering. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, on sunny days around noon, appropriately spray water on the leaves as well, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and dropping afterward and affecting spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most landscaping trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. Dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, apply the fertilizer, then cover with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, daphne, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, epiphyllum, bromeliads, tillandsia, guzmania, clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants and stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to encourage more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, banyan, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, border privet, water willow, Elaeagnus, holly, wintergreen, serissa, juniper, and Chinese juniper, continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Milan, Michelia alba, jasmine, chloranthus, two-colored jasmine, red-back eupatorium, sword fern, monstera, rubber tree, fuchsia, shrimp plant begonia, four-season begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, epiphyllum, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, Rohdea japonica, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, coral flower, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, spectabilis, hydrangea, nandina, croton, syngonium, arrowroot, coral ardisia, pyracantha, bitter orange, kumquat, fingered citron, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray, once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays being sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in tunnels, spray 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After the aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, the sooty mold will also disappear.

For insect bodies such as mealybugs, white shield scale, oyster shell scale, and black-brown round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or killed by spraying 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them centrally, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun. After fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flowerpots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing growing medium.

    8. Turning and freezing soil clods. In early February, continue to turn and dig garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing the soil clods, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig furrows and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include cypress, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, juniper, oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, serissa, creeping juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-headed red pine, water willow, Caragana, small golden coin plum, winter hazel, spectabilis, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing losses that should not occur.

Flower Planting Manual (March edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, michelia, Erqiao magnolia, papaya, spectabilis, hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, viburnum, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, tulip tree, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, aucuba, French holly, privet, mahonia, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Buddhist pine, Japanese aralia, Shu cypress, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. No matter how the light is in your courtyard and whether it is dry or wet, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: first, the lowest temperature the flower or tree can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, it should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting; third, it should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and an auspicious name; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of mature large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-sized plants, which can achieve landscaping and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, cockscomb, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupine, daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy, autumn zephyr lily, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, reineckea, hosta, purple hosta, lycoris, Rohdea japonica, purple-backed Rohdea, aspidistra, iris, acorus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Milan, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, money tree, king coconut, Michelia alba, chloranthus, jasmine, coral ardisia, bromeliads, money tree (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon types (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered cymbidium, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, oncidium, vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, Chinese hibiscus, clivia, pothos, nerve plant, croton, little angel, syngonium, fingered citron, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as nandina, sago palm, rhapis palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, serissa, spectabilis, four-season osmanthus, cactus types, asparagus fern, rubber tree, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, monstera, Philodendron, schefflera, pilea, red-back eupatorium, bougainvillea, pyracantha, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. In March, courtyard flower species that can be sown include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer sweetshrub, red maple, and tulip tree. The latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand stratification to promote germination include: sago cycad, ginkgo, podocarpus, Buddhist pine, fan palm, purple magnolia, michelia types, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly types, pomegranate, viburnum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, Jerusalem cherry, four-season primrose, mallow types, four-o'clock, bird of paradise, clivia, asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-sensitive types should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, purslane tree, graptopetalum, echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, spectabilis, silver bud willow, hypericum, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, fig, Japanese aralia, gardenia, forsythia, winter jasmine, cypress, daphne, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine (Pinus thunbergii) seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Osaka pine, and Nishiki pine; using 1- to 2-year-old white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) and purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate banana shrub (Michelia figo) and Magnolia soulangeana; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), longevity peach, ornamental peach, and red-leaf peach; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of a wheat grain, select superior variety wintersweet scions, carry out cut-grafting and cover with bags to retain moisture, achieving a high survival rate; using three-angled cactus (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock, graft to propagate Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) and various cactus ball types, preferably in a greenhouse. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, and red maple can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), green cypress, upright cypress, banana shrub, japonica (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball viburnum, gardenia, osmanthus, and purple magnolia.

    5. Division. Flowering plants that can be propagated by division in March include: orchids, bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), nandina (Nandina domestica), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), japonica, snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), large-flowered canna (Canna generalis), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), dahlia, and bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae).

(3) Management of Courtyard Flowers

    1. Management of Ground-planted Courtyard Flowers and Trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and establishing ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of Japanese apricot, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), and red maple should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and unfurl leaves; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, rose of Sharon, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, and cherry blossom, transplanting even after sprouting is fine, but appropriate pruning should still be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, sufficient soil balls must be taken when transplanting; generally the soil ball diameter should be more than 6 times the trunk diameter.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer edge of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly decomposed cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings, pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a solid material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially Japanese apricot, wintersweet, forsythia, and winter jasmine after flowering, besides necessarily pruning away dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut at 2 to 3 cm from the branch base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds; through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and develop more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune away branches that ruin the plant shape, and also prune away some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, rose of Sharon, osmanthus, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches grown in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light penetration.

(4) Pest and Disease Control. Promptly prune away and destroy branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases; this can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year. For flowers and trees prone to pests and diseases, such as Chinese rose, papaya, japonica, grape, and Hall crabapple, promptly spray Bordeaux mixture after leaf expansion to prevent powdery mildew and rust.

    2. Management of Ground-planted Courtyard Herbaceous Flowers

Herbaceous flowers that can continue to be transplanted and established in March include: China pink (Dianthus chinensis), snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink zephyr lily (Zephyranthes rosea), iris, sacred lily (Reineckea carnea), lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), and red wood sorrel (Oxalis corymbosa). For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or those transplanted before the new year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale and pansy, first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply a low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers and Trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, Japanese apricot, Hall crabapple, japonica, firethorn, five-needle pine, nandina, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), trident maple, oak, and Chinese fringe tree, etc., placed outdoors, repotting can be done before they sprout and grow leaves, replacing the soil with loose, fertile, fresh culture soil rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for spring and summer growth. For indoor white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia, pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), Chinese rose, jasmine, hibiscus, bird of paradise, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, coral ardisia, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), Buddha's hand, lemon, monstera, Philodendron, clivia, Spathiphyllum, Syngonium, and Calathea, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still kept indoors in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March, insulation and cold protection work must continue; in late March, doors and windows of rooms can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that white orchid, Aglaia, pearl orchid, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, monstera, Spathiphyllum, rubber tree, and Norfolk Island pine can gradually be hardened and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that would affect growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, insulation and cold protection work must continue this month, and vigilance must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus, fuchsia, clerodendrum, jasmine, pearl orchid, white orchid, sago palm, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, and begonias, combine repotting with necessary pruning, including removing diseased and pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For trident maple, Buddhist pine, true cypress, Huangshan pine, black pine, Chinese elm, Chinese fringe tree, oak, and red nanmu, etc., which are mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be done in March before sprouting to further improve their shapes. For Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, and forsythia, severe renewal pruning can be done after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower Types Suitable for Balcony Planting

Urban residents cannot all have a small courtyard, nor can they all live on the ground floor with a good small environment for growing flowers; more often they grow some strongly resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate interiors, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plants: their surfaces or cuticles are thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their bodies are fleshy and thick with abundant sap, or their leaves are small and transformed into needle shapes with very little transpiration water loss, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, thus being very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (bunny ears cactus, San Pedro cactus, jade plant, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, rat-tail cactus, and coral tree), purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), jade tree (Crassula ovata), jewel leaf plant (Graptopetalum paraguayense), Echeveria, living stones (Lithops), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), leaf cactus (Pereskia), and kalanchoe. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, spider lily (Lycoris), white-veined peace lily (Spathiphyllum), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), and spider plant; these flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are quite suitable for balcony planting. Another category is flowers and plants relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable as balcony potted plants (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, Chinese rose, banyan tree, Cymbidium, small-leaf privet, agave, amaryllis, Japanese apricot, oak, Chinese elm, trident maple, water avens (Geum japonicum), black pine, juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, holly osmanthus, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, and moss rose. In addition, jasmine, pearl orchid, five-needle pine, Aglaia, cast-iron plant, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, monstera, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera, and Norfolk Island pine can also be used as slightly lower-layer balcony potted plants, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of Balcony Potted Flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter coral, marigold, garden balsam, and petunia, can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or clivia seeds is collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as orchid cactus, night-blooming cereus, jade tree, jewel leaf plant, Echeveria, purslane tree, coral tree, and jade plant can be cut at this time indoors in plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring warmth returns.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting medium, and at an indoor windowsill with better light, cut and propagate gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Buddhist pine, Chinese rose-pomegranate, japonica, nandina, Daphne, and coral ardisia, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, Nishiki pine, Japanese apricot, longevity peach, red maple, and wintersweet, bagging to retain moisture is necessary; otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of Balcony Potted Flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant types suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March; while taking measures such as insulation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants needing repotting should be repotted in time. For strongly resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the pot soil should be kept from freezing; if the pot soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, not only affecting normal growth that year but in severe cases causing plant death. Measures can be taken such as building a local shelter or moving them indoors or into a shed for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, holly osmanthus, holly, black pine, five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, water avens (Geum japonicum), and small-leaf privet, pruning and shaping can be done; trunks and branches needing shaping can be wired and shaped in March; for plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be changed; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the pot soil moist as the standard, watering once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For Japanese apricot, winter jasmine, forsythia, wintersweet, longevity peach, and camellia, necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote maintenance of a good plant shape, and a comprehensive cleanup of the plants should be carried out, pruning away diseased and pest-infested branches and leaves and destroying them; for dry cut surfaces on tree stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc. can be applied for anti-decay treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (precast reinforced concrete) supported above; using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool, in summer some flowers and plants that relatively prefer humid air can be placed on it, such as orchids, monstera, green giant (Philodendron), Spathiphyllum, coral ardisia, and nandina. The stored water is quite ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up tiered racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare culture soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Growing Handbook (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics in April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm, humid air currents from the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional effects of cold air moving south, they can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River still have the hazard of snow and frost. After Grain Rain, areas south of the Jianghuai have ended late frost, the lowest temperature is not below 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower activities include the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor), moss rose, small dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, garden balsam, morning glory, cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit), round-leaf cypress vine, red tobacco (Nicotiana), petunia, China aster, coreopsis, creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia procumbens), marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, crape myrtle, asparagus fern, fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), nasturtium, summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), maple-leaved mallow, painted leaf (Euphorbia heterophylla), basil, asparagus (Asparagus cochinchinensis), cosmos, sand ginseng, and sensitive plant. Magnolia family flowers and trees that can be sown in April after sand storage include: white magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, Baohua magnolia, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Tianmu magnolia, Wudang magnolia, houpo magnolia (Magnolia officinalis), (Magnolia officinalis var. biloba), (Magnolia sieboldii), mountain magnolia, Parakmeria, manglietia, red-flowered manglietia, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, yellow orchid (Michelia champaca), banana shrub, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, tulip tree, hybrid tulip tree, and North American tulip tree; other landscaping flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, gold pine, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow tree, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, Ormosia henryi, wintersweet, summersweet (Calycanthus), Exochorda racemosa, wolfberry, nandina, coral ardisia, and palm.

Other landscaping trees and flowers of this genus include: Japanese fir (Abies firma), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), golden larch (Pseudolarix kaempferi), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), yew (Taxus chinensis), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), Huangshan luan (Koelreuteria bipinnata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer spp.), ormosia (Ormosia henryi), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), summer sweet (Calycanthus chinensis), white pearl bush (Exochorda racemosa), goji berry (Lycium chinense), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), and palms (Trachycarpus fortunei), among others.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum). Among them, Japanese fatsia can have its blackened, whitish, softened fruits picked in late April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them on fertile seedling beds, or first sand-store the seeds until they crack and show white, then sow, covering with grass to retain moisture. Generally after two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have emerged, promptly remove the covering grass and build a shade shed; for cultivating nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum), the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their skins peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge, and when the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit viewing or ground-planted for cultivation as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowers and trees that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, dragon-claw pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered bristly locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant, cast-iron plant, ferns, palm bamboo, spider plant, agave, silver-king aglaonema, Chinese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, Calathea, aloe, pepperomia, monstera, and Philodendron, etc. Flowering plants that can be divided include: daylily, five-colored plum, safflower, etc.; herbaceous flowers that can be divided include: large-flowered canna, flowerleaf, beautyberry, etc.; also chrysanthemum, redbud, etc. In addition, water lilies and lotus can also be divided at this time.?

    4. Cutting

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cutting propagation can be done in April; the main species include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypresses, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, tulip tree, bridal wreath spirea, paperbush (Edgeworthia), and japonica.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not overly reduced during repotting, repotting can be done in April. But it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowers and trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially Japanese apricot, they absolutely must not be repotted after leaf expansion.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting outdoor flowers and trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen flowers and trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet expanded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with soil balls in April; for evergreen flowers and trees, such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, banana shrub, and white orchid, part of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration water loss from the crown; for deciduous flowers and trees, it is best to transplant when they have not yet expanded leaves, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, Japanese apricot, and apricot; generally the soil ball diameter for transplanting flowers and trees should be no less than 6 times the trunk diameter of the transplanted flower or tree; only in this way, without destroying the soil ball, can transplanted flowers and trees be free from worries.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, green cypress, Japanese serissa, water avens (Geum japonicum), true cypress, Euonymus, crape myrtle, downy cypress, sawara cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), banyan tree, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, paperbush, ginkgo, black pine, and Chinese juniper. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red nanmu, Chinese fringe tree, trident maple, oak, lindera (Lindera), golden bullet tree, Hall crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, holly osmanthus, golden larch, and damnacanthus (Damnacanthus).

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal wire or non-metal wire to continuously wire, guide, and correct them, so they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: First, timely bud removal; when winter buds move and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male strobili; when needle bundle buds and male and female strobili can be recognized from new shoots, promptly remove all female strobili borne at the tips of new shoots and male strobili located at the bases of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the start of new shoot elongation, strictly control watering, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, ensuring the newly grown needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilizing

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, forsythia, Daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), large-flowered cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, and Phaius tankervilleae, because flowering or fruiting consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after spring warmth, apply additional fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth; for potted flower types about to bloom, such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, and white orchid, additional fertilizer should likewise be given, such as monopotassium phosphate, with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, banana shrub, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, and crabapple after flowering, additional fertilizer should also be applied in time to meet the needs of vegetative growth.

    2. Shaping and Care

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid; after braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; the money tree has extremely strong vitality, and even if there is not enough time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust Plant Shape and Prevent Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower types prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-viewing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowers and trees blooming in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, and Hall crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated types, during the flowering period, pay attention to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization, so they can set fruit normally; do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management; except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Growing Handbook Summer

Flower Growing Handbook (May Chapter)

Weather characteristics in May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in our country; after each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is much continuous spring rain; after the spring rain ends at Grain Full, the weather turns stuffy and hot, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for potted flowers' summer and autumn growth. May flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and trees that can be sown as collected in May mainly include: fairy primrose, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), and loquat. May sowing and seedling raising should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated; second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, preventing sudden wet-dry changes in the bed that cause seeds to "return to bud"; third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly build a shade shed to avoid scorching the seedlings.

Osmanthus can have its mature blue-black fruits picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and expose the radicle tip should they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the covering soil should not be too deep; generally no more than 2 to 3 cm is appropriate.

    2. Cutting

Flower types suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold (Tagetes patula), snapdragon (Antirrhinum), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonias, sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, downy jasmine (Jasminum multiflorum), jasmine, pearl orchid, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, night-blooming cereus, centipede tongavine (Epipremnum pinnatum), orchid cactus, jade tree, jewel leaf plant, oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), biond magnolia (Magnolia biondii), japonica, umbrella plant, lantana, painted spurge (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), clerodendrum, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old seedling or cutting plants of purple magnolia, graft to propagate white orchid and banana shrub; use 1- to 2-year-old seedling plants of green maple for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old cutting plants of pink azalea (Rhododendron pulchrum) for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior variety Chinese rose; use sweet wormwood (Artemisia annua) as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior variety chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock; softwood grafting of superior variety wintersweet can also use potted rootstock for grafting. In addition, cactus and three-angled cactus can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowers and trees that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, banana shrub, and red maple; flowers and trees that can be propagated by ground layering include: Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, and trumpet creeper.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most types must be potted and established in May; after 3 to 4 months of careful care, they can bloom on time by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, colorful holiday atmosphere. The main types include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, crape myrtle, sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), China aster, summer cypress, marigold, snapdragon (Antirrhinum), asparagus, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, and begonias.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when white magnolia flowers have finished blooming and are just about to sprout and expand leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowers and trees that sprout later and transplant easily can also be transplanted and established with soil balls in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. Besides combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying; it is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower types suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, rhododendron, red azalea, gardenia, Daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, and red-flowered camellia; foliage types include: sago palm, Philodendron, monstera, palm bamboo, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Brazil wood, money tree, and Schefflera; fruit-viewing types include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, and coral ardisia.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For white orchid that has recently been moved out, when pruning back, special attention must be paid because its branch pith is loose; cut surfaces easily lose water, dry up, and extend downward. Therefore, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained; never cut too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, after flowering, pruning should moderately lower by 10 to 20 cm; only bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can develop flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal; generally it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise the wound will dry and shrink, affecting downward the selected leaf bud. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade, such as: monstera, palm bamboo, Calathea, Philodendron, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, rose-painted calathea (Calathea roseopicta), fan palm, Syngonium, orchids, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, and sasanqua; for light-loving flowers and trees, full light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, and white orchid; bonsai plants, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, Japanese avens (Geum japonicum), oak, Japanese serissa, black pine, and pine (Pinus), require full light; while Buddhist pine, fragrant damnacanthus (Damnacanthus), red nanmu, emerald cypress, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilizing

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Daphne, clivia, orchids, and crabapple, after flowering remove residual flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply additional compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month, to restore vegetative growth while laying a foundation for developing flower buds again; for foliage-oriented types, such as rubber tree, monstera, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron, cast-iron plant, and ferns, apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-heart Brazil wood, croton, caladium, white-butterfly Syngonium, and rose-painted calathea (Calathea roseopicta), apply 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution as foliar fertilizer, which can make leaf color appear more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose, pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot; for leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them; for citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae??? leaf-eating pests commonly appearing on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, and rue, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant types that can still be shaped in May include: Japanese apricot, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine, Japanese serissa, emerald cypress, Japanese avens (Geum japonicum), galu wood (Lindera), and ginkgo. It is worth noting that when shaping, you must be careful and cautious, trying not to damage the bark and core of branches and trunks; otherwise it will affect normal plant growth.

Flower Growing Handbook (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics in June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Jianghuai basin enters the plum rain season; this year plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant and most bonsai, care should be especially careful, to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, disrupting shape or affecting normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flower and tree types that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seed, cycad, loquat, and wintersweet. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination; after about 2 weeks, the seeds can crack and show white, at which point open a trench and sow; the covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm; cover with rice straw to retain moisture; after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages, and promptly build a shade shed.

    2. Cutting

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is high, and the cambium in flower and tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowers and trees. There are two major categories of flowers and trees suitable for softwood cutting in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or root slowly with hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, banana shrub, holly osmanthus, holly, lilac, purple magnolia, japonica, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, and bald cypress; the other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum), Japanese serissa, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, pea shrub (Caragana), jasmine, pearl orchid, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, Buddhist pine, nandina, trumpet creeper, painted spurge (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, golden St. John's wort (Hypericum patulum), golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan tree, Brazil iron, coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), paperbush, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Korean weigela (Weigela coraeensis), Weigela florida (Weigela florida), bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea cantoniensis), ardisia (Ardisia), Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, bridal wreath spirea, hydrangea, and poinsettia. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Cairo morning glory (Ipomoea cairica), ground ivy, nasturtium, qinque, qianqiu tea, heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens), umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonias, pansy, globe amaranth, crape myrtle, French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold, and sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus).

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July; when the young branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified, it is most ideal; the medium can be yellow heart soil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the end; the lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution; after brief drying, insert into the seedling bed; the insertion depth of the cutting is 1/2 to 2/3 of the shoot length, with spacing of 2 cm × 8 cm; after watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the bed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade shed for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%; generally after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior variety wintersweet; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, banana shrub, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedling plants of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), Japanese apricot, and flowering almond (Prunus triloba); use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. Branch grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered oil tea, or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among pink azalea (Rhododendron pulchrum) as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flower and tree types that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), Weigela florida (Weigela florida), oleander, osmanthus, camellia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, pearl orchid, jasmine, and white orchid.

    5. Division

    Flower types that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis), calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), bromeliads, twelve-volume (Haworthia), cast-iron plant, spider plant, acorus, and golden-edge lilyturf.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: China pink, cornflower, snapdragon, low campion, high campion, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, and amaryllis (sow as collected).

    Flower and tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the released seeds can also be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, without affecting germination rate; peach and apricot should be sown as collected, or their seeds sand-stored until they crack and germinate, then sown in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June, after removing the fleshy fruit skin and washing clean, should be stored in moist sand to promote seed embryo after-ripening; when they germinate, choose nursery land for sowing.

    2. Transplanting/Establishment and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting/establishment or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea balsam, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold (Tagetes patula), zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, snapdragon (Antirrhinum), summer cypress, sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), cockscomb, and red-green grass.

In summer, some large flowers and trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. But for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with soil balls is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know," but after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under general conditions, watering once a day is sufficient; second, watering temperature, keep irrigation water and pot soil temperature basically consistent; if the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth; third, combine watering and spraying; when encountering weather with no rain for several days, besides watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers, thereby increasing local spatial humidity; if encountering continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness or wetness of the pot soil.

Flower types entering semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, and begonias; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the pot soil moist; deep dormant types such as: cyclamen, spider lily (Lycoris), ranunculus, and Dutch peony; under high temperatures they show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, overwintering in summer as underground stems or tuberous roots in the soil; watering must be stopped, move them to a cool place, and just keep the pot soil not overly dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check potted flowers; if accumulated water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilizing

For vigorously growing species, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium, arrowroot (Maranta/Stromanthe) types, Boston fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, Aspidistra, giant taro (Alocasia), red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), green emperor (Aglaonema), green queen (Aglaonema), rubber tree, Anthurium, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Rhapis palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood (Caesalpinia ferrea), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus), money tree (Pachira), wintersweet, Chinese rose, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne, azalea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Lantana, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., a thin, well-rotted cake fertilizer solution may be applied as a top dressing once every half month; for those currently in bloom, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet their needs for growth, flowering and fruiting.

For those flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower species, such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel's tail (Sedum morganianum), Lampranthus, Stapelia, and Sedum types, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization must be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and bud pinching

(1) For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese boxthorn (Sageretia thea), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Sabina, water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese juniper, holly osmanthus (Osmanthus heterophyllus), holly, trident maple and snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and in good shape, and can also encourage it to send out more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, and Chinese rose, faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have flowered should be appropriately cut back to encourage the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for woody flowers such as Michelia alba, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, and crabapple, in order to help them form a good plant shape and produce more flower buds, more flowers and better flowers in the current or following year, the overly vigorous branches should be tipped and their buds pinched to inhibit the growth of the main and lateral shoots and encourage lateral buds to sprout.

    4. Shading

    In June, those shade-loving or semi-shade-loving woody flowers must be moved under a shade canopy to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as hosta, Hosta ventricosa, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, Rhapis palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, Peperomia, giant taro (Alocasia), red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), green emperor (Aglaonema), red queen (Aglaonema), fan palm, Daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, Serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Sageretia, holly osmanthus, holly, water willow, oak (Quercus), black pine, Zuisho Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii 'Zuisho'), Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, Mahonia, grape, etc.; for Buddhist pine, tiger thorn (Damnacanthus), heavenly bamboo, Buddha belly bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, and podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), appropriate shading may be given.

    5. Pest and disease control

(1) Chinese juniper, Sabina, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, Buddhist pine, crabapple types, etc. are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poison sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) Michelia alba, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are prone to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected with anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) For bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, fingered citron, etc., the tender leaves are easily eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and pesticides such as contact insecticides and stomach poisons may be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai shaping

The plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly some adaptable, wire-tolerant woody ornamental plants, and they must be plants that were potted and hardened off in early spring or grown in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, Sabina, Chinese juniper, holly osmanthus, holly, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, Serissa, black pine, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true juniper, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, with gentle and slow wiring; one must not rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 is Grain in Ear; June 21 is Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Handbook (July chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. July 16 is the first day of the dog days, and August 15 is the last day of the dog days, with most parts of the country entering the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of our country is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Jianghuai it is 28°C, while only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have an average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower propagation
    1. Sowing
    The herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, fairy primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increased ventilation and light.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, wild peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), etc. may also be harvested; after washing off the flesh, sow them in furrows immediately, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet seeds may be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds removed from the fruit capsule may be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, which will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    The herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonia types, coleus, Pilea, salvia, marigold, Tagetes patula, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant (Cyperus), creeping fig (Parthenocissus), coral flower (Pachystachys), pepperomia (Peperomia), Rhaphidophora, Polygonum chinense, Bryophyllum, pothos, etc.
    The woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, heavenly bamboo, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum virginicum, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne, gardenia, Edgeworthia, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus, firethorn, Cordyline, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Serissa, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum plicatum, boxwood types, fig, Magnolia liliiflora, osmanthus, azalea types, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden silk willow, etc. Amaryllis may also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July some woody flowers may also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus, etc. To propagate woody flowers by water cuttings, first, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, punch holes in it and use it as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water for cuttings clean, and a few pieces of charcoal may be added for anti-rot purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach and wild peach may be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), red-leaf plum, Prunus mume 'Meiren', etc.; using cuttings of wild rose, Rosa multiflora, and 'Ten Sisters' as rootstock, bud graft to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa roses; using potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, *graft to propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; using potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock, *graft to propagate fine varieties of wintersweet; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings may also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and whether it has survived can be judged after 7 to 10 days; using 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the Azalea pulchrum as rootstock, cleft graft or side graft to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; using cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud graft to propagate fine varieties of flowering cherry; using current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, Malus halliana, or crabapple as rootstock, carry out "T"-shaped budding to propagate fine varieties of crabapple types; using Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    The woody flower species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, Weigela, broom (Caragana), osmanthus, gardenia, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus, climbing rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    The ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Acorus types, umbrella plant (Cyperus), Aspidistra, purple-backed spiderwort (Tradescantia), bromeliad types, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope types, Reineckea, Zephyranthes, Boston fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out
    1. Seed collection
    The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    The woody flower seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, wild peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), etc.
    2. Transplanting, planting out and potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers to be displayed during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time may be seedlings from sowing or cuttings; after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: salvia, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), marigold, Tagetes patula, Kochia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, dragon juniper balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade canopies should be built in time, and the frequency of water spraying should be increased; after they have basically survived, they can be transferred to normal management, and one must not be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state under high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geranium types, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia types, Sedum, kalanchoe, cactus types, Haworthia, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio, Daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low; watering should be reduced, the pot soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter a deep dormant state under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris types, Ranunculus, and Dicentra, in July their aboveground stems and leaves wither and their underground nutrient fibrous roots die, overwintering through the summer as underground stems or tuberous roots in the soil. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil only needs to be kept not too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, arrowroot types, Syngonium types, red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), giant taro (Alocasia), green emperor (Aglaonema), green queen (Aglaonema), Dieffenbachia, Brazilian ironwood (Caesalpinia ferrea), money tree (Pachira), camellia, sasanqua, Aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but appropriate leaf-surface spraying should also be given, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and one must not be negligent. Once the pot soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaf surface, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots; one must not pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot sends out 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering in the morning before 10 o'clock and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain; if water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out in time, and after the pot soil is slightly dry, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilization
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilization management should be strengthened. First, species with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; third, species for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, heavenly bamboo, wintersweet, azalea, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as Rhapis palm, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plant's comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer solution or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer by watering is preferable.
    The herbaceous flowers for which fertilization should be strengthened in July include: salvia (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, golden shrimp plant, Justicia brandegeeana, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four-o'clock, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple types, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, Chloranthus, wintersweet, hibiscus, cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many foliage plant species, such as bromeliad types, Brazilian ironwood (Caesalpinia ferrea), Rhapis palm, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, arrowroot, giant taro (Alocasia), red zebra plant (Aphelandra), sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped, especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as Sedum types, Senecio, Lampranthus, Stapelia, etc.; fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tipped and pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the tender terminal bud at the tip with the fingers. The bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Sageretia, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxwood (Buxus sinica), wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk, Elaeagnus, water willow, Vitex, Forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa, Murraya, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of a new shoot to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds so that a graceful crown or tree shape is formed. The bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient for finger pinching, such as prickly juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak (Quercus), Ilex cornuta, true juniper, etc.
For those potted flower species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, etc., their faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have flowered should be given necessary cutback, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming; for azalea, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be cut back to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those shade-loving or semi-shade-loving ornamental plants, they must be moved under a shade canopy to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as ferns, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchid types, Rhapis palm, rubber tree, red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Dieffenbachia, pothos, Peperomia types, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian ironwood (Caesalpinia ferrea), Rhaphidophora, bromeliad types, arrowroot types, Reineckea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light may be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, black pine, water willow, oak (Quercus), Zuisho Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii 'Zuisho'), Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, tiger thorn (Damnacanthus), cloud bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, etc., it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature this month is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand, which can reduce evaporation from the pot soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower species with a relatively high degree of leaf leatheriness, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance should be chosen, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus, fan palm, Rhapis palm, Canary Island date palm, bromeliad types, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Aucuba, etc., while it is not suitable to choose Boston fern, coleus, giant taro (Alocasia), Syngonium, etc. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new buds unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected with anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and in severe cases causes the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times solution or folpet 500 times solution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, crabapple types, red-leaf plum, flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding; methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil burial of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, avoid dimethoate and omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leaf roller (Glyphodes perspectalis) that harms Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens; when this pest occurs severely, it can eat all the leaves bare. Once found, pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate may be sprayed promptly. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide may be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the new shoot leaves of bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, fingered citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue, etc., and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the wax insect (Ericerus pela) that harms privet, small-leaf privet, Fraxinus chinensis, and white ash, late July to late August is its emergence period; the right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supona for control, which can prevent the wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus) is a major pest harming large-leaf euonymus, plane tree, pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar, etc., and in severe cases the insects often cover the branches and leaves; early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supona may be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a vigorous growth period, branches are easily infected with pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover; most tree-stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some adaptable, wire-tolerant plant species, and they are required to be plants that were potted and hardened off or grown in the ground in spring. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, hiba arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata), Sabina, Serissa, black pine, boxwood (Buxus sinica), water willow, etc.
    In July, plant shaping must be careful and meticulous, with gentle and slow wiring and gradual force; one must not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August, with high temperature, strong light, and low humidity, is the high-temperature dry-hot period second only to July in the year, with the average monthly temperature in most parts of the country between 24°C and 28°C. The potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among them, the woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Zuisho Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii 'Zuisho'), five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Huashan pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, hibiscus, Lantana, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron (Yucca), croton, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Rhapis palm, money tree (Pachira), Schefflera, plumeria, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, salvia, dahlia, China aster, begonia, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), marigold, Tagetes patula, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, calendula, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra, Aglaonema, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Aglaonema commutatum, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, the woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Buddhist pine, etc.; they may be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds may be stored in moist sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm may be sand-stored for germination and then sown in bags. After the ornamental pomegranate fruits mature and crack, harvest them, rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, and sand-store until germination before sowing. The herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, sea lavender (Limonium), petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis types, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. The greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, fairy primrose, coleus, calendula, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and moist fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, carry out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings to propagate the following woody flower species: firethorn, Mahonia types, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, coral tree (Erythrina), Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus, rubber tree, Galumu (Pittosporum), Buddhist pine, Schefflera types, Cordyline, hydrangea, Magnolia liliiflora, etc. Using yellow subsoil and sandy loam as substrate, boxwood types, pomegranate, hibiscus, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, heavenly bamboo, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia, etc. may be cut. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as salvia, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos may also be cut this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following woody flowers may be grafted: in northern regions, use fringetree (Chionanthus) as rootstock and *graft osmanthus; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstock, bud graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock, *graft Michelia alba; use current-year wild peach seedlings as rootstock, bud graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf plum, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), etc.; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud graft Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, Rosa multiflora, etc. as rootstock, bud graft fine varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. as rootstock, bud graft Malus micromalus and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock, crown-replacement grafting to propagate red maple and feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock, branch graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock, branch graft fine varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock, branch graft and *graft fine varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting may be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, the ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, Banksia rose, climbing rose, Weigela, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, broom (Caragana), winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, osmanthus types, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia figo, hibiscus, Buddhist pine, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, the ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Little Angel (Philodendron 'Congo'), multi-headed green emperor (Aglaonema), bromeliads, Polygonatum, Aspidistra, umbrella plant (Cyperus), Adina, red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular Oxalis, Aglaonema, Dutch aster, fine-leaf Acorus, Boston fern, Aglaonema commutatum, arrowroot types, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. may also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shading, watering, spraying, and other management should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be achieved, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged oriental arborvitae, golden-hearted (edged) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Buddhist pine, Michelia figo, dragon juniper balls, Sabina balls, boxwood balls, pomegranate, hibiscus, Aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers may also be transplanted and planted out, such as salvia, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), etc., which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for the roadside hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae, pruning should continue to be given. For ground-planted balls, such as Photinia, dragon juniper, Sabina, bayberry, firethorn, pittosporum, holly osmanthus, holly, etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue flowering for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea, Lantana, etc., faded flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately cut back. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as salvia, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, Tagetes patula, marigold, etc., tipping and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened; for plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves; spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum), golden-edged (heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, croton, red mulberry (Acalypha), Aucuba japonica var. variegata, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, a quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For species that continue flowering, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana, etc., as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution may be sprayed through leaf-surface top dressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for the scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supona 1500 times solution for control. For the chrysanthemum tiger (leaf beetle) and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them. For larvae such as the rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that chew Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate 1000 times solution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, the woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, summer wintersweet, etc. The herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 in the morning and after 4 o'clock in the afternoon, keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those acid-loving ornamental plant species, 0.1% ferrous sulfate may be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets falling on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and easily lead to leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting may be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette must not be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misting done more, pouring water into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the pot soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, control watering and spraying, only maintaining the pot soil slightly moist; by spraying water on the small environment around the flower pot, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis palm, red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, pygmy date palm, Areca palm, fish-tail palm, fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Dutch iron (Yucca), money tree (Pachira), Boston fern, Ludou tree (Aralia), Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), gold coin tree (Zamioculcas), Syngonium, green emperor (Aglaonema), green queen (Aglaonema), poinsettia, Dieffenbachia, Schefflera, Aucuba, Chamaedorea, croton, Fatsia japonica, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer may be applied as top dressing, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with a long flowering period, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, Lantana, etc., as well as fruiting ones such as bitter orange, fingered citron, kumquat, lemon, rich fruit (Ardisia), firethorn, golden bullet (Diospyros), fruit pomegranate, heavenly bamboo, papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied as top dressing, such as monopotassium phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as salvia, globe amaranth, dry chrysanthemum, marigold, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), China aster, chrysanthemum, dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin liquid fertilizer may be applied as top dressing once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For woody flower species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, azalea, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied as leaf-surface top dressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, so as to avoid leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, promptly spray the leaf surface once with water to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria, Christmas cactus, Sedum types, purple triangular Oxalis, cactus types, cactus ball types, etc., all forms of top dressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For those cool-loving ornamental plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Little Angel (Philodendron 'Congo'), rubber tree, Areca palm, giant taro (Alocasia), Syngonium, arrowroot types, red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), Rhapis palm, pothos, green emperor (Aglaonema), green queen (Aglaonema), orchid grass types, Dieffenbachia, Peperomia, bromeliad types, Adina, Pilea, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, Phoenix bamboo, spider plant, Reineckea, Chamaedorea, Fittonia, purple velvet plant (Gynura), blood leaf orchid (Ludisia), Aglaonema commutatum, black-leaf alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium, begonia types, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, Hosta ventricosa, etc., shade canopies may continue to be provided; pull on the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they may also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they may also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to tip or prune those tree-stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, boxwood (Buxus sinica), etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., cut back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and de-budding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterflies, rose sawflies, and peach red-necked longhorn beetles. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Zuisho Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii 'Zuisho'), five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia, water willow, holly osmanthus, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxwood (Buxus sinica), oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak (Quercus), Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Buddhist pine, etc. In August, part of the woody flowers on the balcony may be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, black-leaf alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium, giant taro (Alocasia), red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), arrowroot, Areca palm, queen palm, Little Angel (Philodendron 'Congo'), Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, pothos, Rhapis palm, money tree (Pachira), clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, golden shrimp plant, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Fatsia japonica, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to retain moisture and cut some ornamental plants; the cutting substrate may be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. The ornamental plant species that can be cut include: Schefflera, Aucuba japonica var. variegata, begonia, gardenia, golden shrimp plant, coral flower (Pachystachys), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus, Cordyline, jasmine, Aglaonema, Aglaonema commutatum, camellia, sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc.; for the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants may also be water-cut, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, Aucuba, fig, Cordyline, plumeria, geranium, Aglaonema, fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers must be careful and cautious. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which may be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed may be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm of wet sand, and then some relatively moisture-loving potted flowers may be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Little Angel (Philodendron 'Congo'), camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliad types, red (green) zebra plant (Aphelandra), Chloranthus, etc.; usually spraying in place of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, black-leaf alocasia, etc., they may be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using spraying in place of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively high-temperature-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Sageretia, boxwood (Buxus sinica), trident maple, black pine, Zuisho Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii 'Zuisho'), wisteria, Fujian tea, water willow, agave, sago palm, etc., water may be given 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilization. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution may be sprayed or applied by watering, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules may be scattered on the pot surface. For woody flowers mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, fingered citron, kumquat, etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied as top dressing. For Chinese elm, Sageretia, holly osmanthus, holly, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, water willow, boxwood (Buxus sinica), etc., after each pruning, a thin fertilizer may be applied as top dressing.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss, or wet cloth may be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a shade net may be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted woody flowers on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, Serissa, Fraxinus chinensis, oak (Quercus), small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxwood (Buxus sinica), firethorn, etc., tipping or pruning is still needed this month. For faded flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to cause damage on balconies, and should be promptly sprayed with a 1500-fold dilution of 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder. For the small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by using transparent adhesive tape. For the aphids that frequently appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with a 1000-fold dilution of 90% trichlorfon crystal.

Flower Planting Manual (September Edition)

Flowers and plants suitable for courtyard display
In September, temperatures gradually decline across most parts of China, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plants are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Chinese jasmine orange (Fagraea ceilanica), cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron plant (Yucca), croton, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), large-leaf umbrella tree (Schefflera), lady palm, frangipani, bottle palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, royal palm, ti plant, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, dwarf umbrella tree, garcinia (Clusiaceae), Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, paperbush, heavenly bamboo, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia, marigold, five-color pepper, spider lily, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, snapdragon, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers and plants
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer sweet shrub, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among these, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing downward during sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, then covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer sweet shrub seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer sweet shrub, whose seeds can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all other species must be stored in moist sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they need to overwinter in plastic tunnels.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting medium, woody flower species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, mahonia, Michelia, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, fuchsia, Chinese snowball viburnum, snowball viburnum, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus, gold-veined shrimp plant, coral flower, rubber tree, dwarf umbrella tree, ti plant, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, St. John's wort, spirea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bridal wreath spirea, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, heavenly bamboo, fig, oleander, Japanese serissa, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flowers and trees can be grafted: using peony root sections as rootstock to graft superior varieties of tree peony; using seedlings of wild peach, apricot, etc. as rootstock, bud-grafting to propagate flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; using field maple seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture-retaining side grafting for red maple, feather maple, etc.; using white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-grafting superior varieties of white magnolia and Magnolia soulangeana; using potted purple magnolia as rootstock, side grafting Michelia alba; using citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-grafting kumquat, etc.; using fringe tree as rootstock, side grafting osmanthus; using potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock, side grafting superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowers and trees that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, Michelia, camellia, Chloranthus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum, bridal wreath spirea, spirea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, snake plant, Anthurium 'Little Angel', multi-headed green Philodendron, silver queen Aglaonema, Boston fern, heavenly bamboo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, Aspidistra, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, spider lily, Mediterranean bluebell, etc. can also have their offsets divided and replanted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers and plants
1. Transplanting. Because temperatures are still relatively high in September, unless there are special circumstances, flowers and trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can be done provided soil balls are kept intact. Species include: oleander, dragon juniper, Michelia, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, St. John's wort, French holly, red-flowered Loropetalum, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning and strengthened watering, misting, and shading management to ensure success. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, small dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning of the growing season for ball-shaped plants in northern China this year. Courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged Oriental arborvitae, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: dragon juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be pinched back include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia, marigold, French marigold, etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more flower spikes on lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously for a long period, such as hybrid roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and faded stems, and moderately shorten branches that have already flowered, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of this year, continuing good watering and misting management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around tree trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the canopy to reduce leaf transpiration and increase local humidity. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered Loropetalum, variegated shell ginger, croton, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to maintain bright leaf color, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are viewed for flowers or fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus 'Rixianggui', four-season tangerine, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana, heavenly bamboo, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as large numbers of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus that are currently blooming, fertilizing can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green lo moth damaging crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and other flowers and trees, spray a 800-fold dilution of 90% trichlorfon crystal for control; for the star longhorn beetle damaging crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert poison sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, apply a 1000-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder in the early stage of disease onset for control.
6. Seed collection. Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flowers and trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia, Michelia, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, yew, shiny-leaf wintersweet, etc. The seeds of Magnoliaceae as well as yew, horse chestnut, crabapple species, etc., after treatment, must be stored in moist sand until early the following spring, and sown after the seeds crack open. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until the following spring for sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers and plants
1. Watering. In September, light is strong, temperatures are high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month, water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon; in the second half of the month, reduce to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once daily, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers and plants. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer have also begun to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so fertilizing management should be highly emphasized this month. For foliage plants, such as split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, money tree, Brazilian wood, spring feather (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum), lady palm, Chinese jasmine orange, cinnamon species, money tree (Zamioculcas), Norfolk Island pine, fishtail palm, pothos, red (green) gem (Philodendron), green emperor, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium, fiddle-leaf fig, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with a very long flowering period or peak bloom in autumn, such as Chinese rose, three-color Lantana, Lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, four-season osmanthus, Osmanthus 'Rixianggui', osmanthus, etc.; fruiting plants such as bitter orange, heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, papaya, golden bullet (Diospyros cathayensis), purple beautyberry, fruiting pomegranate, etc.; colorful-leaf plants such as croton, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, bromeliad species, variegated banyan, golden-edged Brazilian wood, ti plant, coleus, etc., should be given fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For fuchsia, geranium, calla lily, cyclamen, wax begonia, Daphne, Christmas cactus, Sedum species, portulacaria (jade leaf), purple triangular wood sorrel, clivia, and epiphyllum that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud enlargement stage, such as camellia, tea camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, Michelia, rhododendron, etc., low-concentration fertilizer with balanced nutrients can be applied; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., apply a light fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are relatively high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving foliage plant species, such as split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, Boston fern, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium, Calathea species, pothos, lady palm, green emperor, silver queen, orchid grass, pink lady (Aglaonema), Queen palm, Aspidistra, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Anthurium 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, crystal anthurium, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, red-veined shrimp plant, asparagus fern, dwarf umbrella tree, variegated brake fern, watermelon peperomia, variegated dumb cane, giant taro, anthurium, staghorn fern, mirror grass, water buttonbush, king palm, lucky bamboo, etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species, such as trident maple, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, ginkgo, water willow, black pine, Oriental arborvitae (bonsai), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, Chinese rose, oak, white wax, etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, tiger thorn, red machilus, Loropetalum, night-blooming cereus, heavenly bamboo, jade tree, rhododendron species, camellia, tea camellia, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent wilting and affect their recovery.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of removing buds and flower buds; for Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, bougainvillea, Lantana, gold-bracted flower (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower, etc., prune after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that are tolerant of pruning, easy to sprout, and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan, red machilus, small-leaf privet, water willow, Chinese box, Oriental arborvitae (bonsai), Sabina chinensis, white wax, tamarisk, etc., continue to prune or pinch buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or furandan granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees, use a 1500-fold dilution of 40% Supracide for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowers and trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Jinsong pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, Chinese box, Oriental arborvitae (bonsai), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, white wax, banyan, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry, Buddhist pine, thorny elm, Japanese serissa, firethorn, Lantana, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, crystal anthurium, anthurium, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as lady palm, split-leaf philodendron, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm, fishtail palm, royal palm, ban dou tree, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, dwarf umbrella tree, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, you can continue to use wide-mouth flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed medium of rice husk ash and moist sand at a 1/2 ratio each, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and propagate some ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, ti plant, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, dwarf umbrella tree, Osmanthus 'Rixianggui', four-season osmanthus, camellia, tea camellia, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-backed Excoecaria, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, Michelia, silver queen Aglaonema, etc. You can also water-propagate dwarf umbrella tree, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, Guangdong evergreen, etc. indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium, split-leaf philodendron, Aspidistra, camellia, tea camellia, Anthurium 'Little Angel', Chloranthus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water basin or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and normally misted instead of watered. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of wet on top and dry below in the potting soil. Watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stump bonsai, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly viewed for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, Buddha's hand, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia, tea camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer depending on the species. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an off-odor, especially not a foul smell; when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering frequency, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, water willow, Chinese box, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Oriental arborvitae (bonsai), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, small-leaf privet, white wax, etc., still need pinching or pruning. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, and spent flowers and faded stems should also be promptly cut off.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with a 1500-fold dilution of 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, and Chinese cypress bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach, and other flowers and trees, continue to insert poison sticks or bury furandan for control; for various scale insects damaging camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet, and other flowers and trees, when the number is small, they can be manually wiped off, and when the number is large, spray a 1500-fold dilution of 40% Supracide for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Edition)

Flowers and plants suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures decline across most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plants are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron plant (Yucca), Chinese jasmine orange, Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, dwarf umbrella tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, lady palm, bottle palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, thick-leaf fig, fishtail palm, areca palm, royal palm, ti plant, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, garcinia, Buddha belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, paperbush, orange jasmine, heavenly bamboo, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia, snapdragon, French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species cultivated in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers and plants

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer sweet shrub, Ardisia, soapberry, Kuding tea, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, yew, fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela florida, palm, pond cypress, etc. Among these, horse chestnut should be sown with the hilum facing downward; summer sweet shrub seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours before sowing. Except for summer sweet shrub and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all other species can have their seeds cleaned and stored in moist sand for germination until the following spring when the seeds crack and show white before sowing. Note that before storage for germination, seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when squeezed in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination process, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mold. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, four-season primrose, African daisy, calceolaria can also be sown in plastic tunnels.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-backed Excoecaria, dwarf umbrella tree, night-blooming jasmine, Lantana, firethorn, mahonia, Buddha's hand, clerodendrum, ti plant, Michelia, aucuba, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela florida, snowball viburnum, red-flowered spirea, bridal wreath spirea, St. John's wort, red-leaf plum, Chinese rose, Chinese snowball viburnum, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, oleander, fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, wax begonia, bamboo-joint begonia, inch plant, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, gold-veined shrimp plant, cold chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this section is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture-retaining grafting for five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Jinsong pine; using peony root as rootstock, grafting superior varieties of tree peony; using one-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture-retaining grafting for red maple, feather maple, etc.; using one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-grafting superior varieties of white magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; using three-ribbed cactus as rootstock, grafting various cactus ball types; using one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-grafting kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: camellia, plum blossom, Weigela florida, hydrangea, weigela, Chaenomeles speciosa, August osmanthus, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum, purple magnolia, gardenia, St. John's wort, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Michelia, bridal wreath spirea, red-flowered spirea, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum, double-flowered kerria, bridal wreath spirea, spirea, sago palm, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta, bird of paradise, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, ranunculus, Rudbeckia, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen Aglaonema, purple triangular wood sorrel, multi-headed green Philodendron, Boston fern, Aspidistra, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: calla lily, amaryllis, freesia, spider lily, tulip, Mediterranean bluebell, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers and plants

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, transplanting can be done after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves have fallen, according to local climate changes, such as rose of Sharon, redbud, flowering almond, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as leatherleaf mahonia, heavenly bamboo, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, golden-edged Oriental arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf boxwood, Chinese box, sparrow-tongue boxwood, etc., when transplanting, first, prune before transplanting; second, keep soil balls intact; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for courtyard hedges and ball-shaped plants, requiring precision and accuracy, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-edged Oriental arborvitae, golden-edged boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, Chinese box, French holly, privet, Photinia, small-leaf privet, etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, etc. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Lantana, bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and faded stems, and moderately shorten branches that have already flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., promptly cut off open flower spikes to promote continued flowering and blooming on lateral shoots, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowers and trees newly planted this year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist but not waterlogged; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for osmanthus species that have already flowered, dig ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, as well as camellia, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for heavenly bamboo, firethorn, and southern Buddha's hand, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet, etc. that are in the fruit-viewing stage, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up and burn them in a centralized manner. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), soapberry, horse chestnut, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia huangshanensis, Michelia champaca, golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered manglietia, broad-petaled Michelia, pond cypress, lady palm, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, fan palm, Kuding tea, French holly, camphor, privet, small-leaf privet, Chinese snowball viburnum, hall crabapple, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, yew, oil camellia, etc. These seeds must all be stored in moist sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, tulip tree, red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood, Japanese cedar, Chinese tallow, silk tree, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, southern sour jujube, redbud, camptotheca, Chongyang wood, five-angle maple, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, garden balsam, four o'clock flower, Kochia, strawflower, cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain, painted euphorbia, sensitive plant, dancing grass, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes and store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature no lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them in the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers and plants

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra, split-leaf philodendron, pothos, Syngonium, Chinese jasmine orange, Lanyu cinnamon, giant taro, red gem, etc., on sunny days, water once a day and supplement with leaf misting; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, portulacaria, Daphne, geranium, fuchsia, etc., increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering to accelerate the lignification of new shoots, which helps them overwinter safely. Watering time is best at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, black orchid, Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, Ardisia, golden bullet, etc., in early to mid-October, a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied.

    3. Shading. For some extremely shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, split-leaf philodendron, Calathea species, Syngonium, green gem, Boston fern, peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid to late October, first cut off dead branches and fallen leaves, pest-damaged branches, and weak branches; for leggy branches, carry out heavy shortening; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of branches and causing branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid to late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into plastic tunnels; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, weather change information should be accurately monitored to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves from potted flowers and trees, collect them together, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetles, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms, and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Jinsong pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, water willow, white wax, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, Oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Chinese box, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf fig, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, Lantana, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flower species can no longer be kept on the balcony when temperatures drop to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium, crystal anthurium, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as lady palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm, fishtail palm, royal palm, ban dou, dwarf umbrella tree, etc. In northern regions, when temperatures drop to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouth large flower pots as cutting containers on the balcony, filled with a mixed cutting medium of rice husk ash and moist sand at a 1/2 ratio each, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting medium, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and propagate a small number of ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, dwarf umbrella tree, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, Chinese hibiscus, Buddha's hand, silver queen Aglaonema, golden pothos, geranium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, dwarf umbrella tree, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day and supplement with leaf misting; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, tea camellia, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, and misting the branches and leaves can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as split-leaf philodendron, spring feather, Anthurium 'Little Angel', Aspidistra, ti plant, bird's nest fern, anthurium, money tree, Calathea species, pothos, etc., misting should be primary and watering secondary, to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, heavenly bamboo, golden bullet, Ardisia, firethorn, winter coral, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., apply 1 to 2 times of dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering frequency, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent soil compaction, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, which deserves even more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days, move them indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. Shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid to late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Oriental arborvitae (bonsai), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, white wax, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can be untied first; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be used for rewiring and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, hall crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves from all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai with partially exposed xylem on the trunk, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases next year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Edition)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in China, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should emphasize two aspects: first, pruning and clearing ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African daisy, clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: snowball viburnum, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor, pencil cedar, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi), Buddhist pine, soapberry, Ardisia (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, Photinia, Photinia, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flower and tree species mainly for heat preservation and cold protection include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink, and other varieties), Chinese rose (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth, and other easy-to-root varieties), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, Chaenomeles speciosa, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese elm, Japanese serissa, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering shrubs that can be propagated by close-planted cuttings in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel in November include: Chinese boxwood (Buxus sinica), Japanese boxwood (Buxus microphylla var. japonica), big-leaf boxwood (Buxus megistophylla), silver-edged boxwood, clearweed (Pilea), golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia, and golden-edged serissa. With proper management, they will develop a complete root system by the following spring and can be planted in the ground to grow into shaped topiary balls for landscaping. In winter, the following can also be propagated by cuttings in the greenhouse: begonia (Begonia maculata), Begonia 'Crispa', lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, Chinese hibiscus, fuchsia, jade plant, purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), red-backed euphorbia (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), and shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana); after spring arrives they can be potted up for cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), grape, and others can also be cut and stored until spring of the following year for rooting, which can noticeably speed up rooting and increase the survival rate of the cuttings.

    3. Grafting. Using green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple and lace-leaf maple indoors with bagging; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, do cut grafting on Japanese apricot (graft union buried in soil to overwinter); using vigorous branches of rose (the 'Elizabeth' cultivar) as rootstock scion, with branches of superior rose cultivars as scions, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting followed by cuttings, so that the healing of the graft union and the rooting of the lower cut are synchronized, which can speed up the process of producing grafted seedlings of superior rose cultivars.

    4. Layering. Flowering shrubs that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, osmanthus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, Platycladus orientalis, Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, and Spiraea thunbergii.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plants that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena (Miscanthus), Hypericum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia, Buddleja, tree peony, broom (Caragana), winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum, jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Pleioblastus.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut and divided for replanting.

Herbaceous flowers that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris, ornamental bromeliads, big-leaf liriope (Liriope muscari), Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra, and Kalanchoe.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia, China aster, French marigold, African marigold, and maple-leaf hibiscus (Abelmoschus).

    Flowering shrubs whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Japanese false cypress, Japanese cypress, silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), sweetgum, camptotheca, Eucommia ulmoides, red-twig dogwood, Chinese tallow tree, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana, and Spiraea cantoniensis. Flowering shrubs whose seeds can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in moist sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, palm, camphor tree, pencil cedar, soapberry, goji, yew, southern magnolia, holly, Ilex cornuta, firethorn, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, and rose (for producing rootstock).

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flowers that can continue to be planted out in flowerbeds and transplanted for flower border arrangements in November include: sweet alyssum (Alyssum maritimum), dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, and ornamental kale.

    Trees that can be transplanted in November include: camphor tree, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow tree, white magnolia, osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden, Cercis gigantea, tulip tree, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, and crabapple. When transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, most of the leaves removed, the trunk bound with straw rope, and a large root ball retained (generally the root ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back, large branches pruned, and a root ball retained with the trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and spraying of the trunk must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, the cut ends of the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from within the tree.

    In November, Japanese apricot bonsai, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Hall crabapple can be transplanted and potted, then placed in a plastic tunnel to force flowering, so as to meet the need for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-rimmed narcissus, and the like should be moved into a plastic tunnel to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in a greenhouse, plastic tunnel, or room, the amount of watering in November is based on keeping the potting soil moist; it must not be too wet, because if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants easily rot at the roots and die. If the indoor temperature is higher, watering should be appropriately increased, along with necessary misting of the leaves.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, azalea, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, and cineraria, as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. daidai), Buddha's hand, lemon, firethorn, nandina, winter cherry, and Ardisia crenata, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted regularly to promote the swelling and growth of flower buds and to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be misted regularly so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In greenhouses and rooms with higher temperatures, watering can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium, Calathea, pink-striped Calathea, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time to water potted flowers is around 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically the same as the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by water that is too cold, which would in turn affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, such as Western azalea, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, winter daphne, cineraria, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus, and silver vase bromeliad, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; using a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering shrubs, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, topdressing should be stopped to help them enter normal dormancy and overwinter. For most flowering shrubs grown in the ground, such as crabapple types, southern magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, Spiraea, osmanthus, grape, rose, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, palm, red maple, tree peony, Forsythia viridissima, herbaceous peony, and Hypericum, dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can receive less, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and shaped topiary balls that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Sageretia thea, trident maple, Quercus acutissima, Fraxinus 'Dui Jie Bai La', firethorn, serissa, Chinese juniper, Podocarpus macrophyllus, wintersweet, and crabapple, to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted roses that have not yet been pruned: for each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 vigorous 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut away the remaining old stems from their base and remove all thin, weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, heavily cut back the current year's shoots, and apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm at the base of a few thick branches, remove all other current year's shoots, so as to promote more vigorous new shoots the following year and lay the foundation for more abundant flowering.

For common flowering shrubs in flowerbeds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree, Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, Pittosporum, and crabapple, remove all malformed branches, thin weak branches, inner-canopy branches, and diseased or pest-infested branches, and appropriately cut back water sprouts that protrude beyond the canopy. In addition, in November, thick palm trunks can be stripped of their fibrous sheaths and the trunks cleaned, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering shrubs that are not very afraid of cold, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, azalea, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, nandina, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Dendrobium, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, and Rhapis, they can be placed in a plastic tunnel, as long as the temperature is kept no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea, pink-striped Calathea, Syngonium, Philodendron 'Florida Beauty', Aglaonema, croton, Pachystachys lutea, golden shrimp plant, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', frangipani, lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Paphiopedilum, they should be placed indoors at a room temperature no lower than 10°C, or protected through winter in a double-layer plastic tunnel.

For bonsai or potted flowering shrubs that are relatively cold-tolerant, such as wintersweet, Japanese apricot, crabapple types, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, Chinese boxwood, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, five-needle pine, Platycladus orientalis, Chinese juniper, trident maple, and red maple, they can be buried directly, pot and all, in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions no lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange must also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from remaining stuffy indoors for long periods, which causes flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop. In addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in the plants. When ventilating, be sure not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple types, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and chrysanthemum, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can noticeably reduce disease occurrence the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead and split areas for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the stump's xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects, and the like appearing on potted flowering shrubs placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, orchids, camellia, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaonema, bitter orange, and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliage fertilizer, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    Bonsai plant species suitable for shaping in November mainly include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Chinese juniper, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Euonymus, serissa, Japanese apricot, Corylopsis, Quercus acutissima, Ilex cornuta, holly, Chinese boxwood, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai trunks that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deep constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November and the trunk and branches re-tied and adjusted.

For new stumps such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea, Adina rubella, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields by the shallow-burial, high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, select suitable pots and repot them, pair them with ornamental stones, and dot the surface with moss, so they can be used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall Japanese apricot stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, Chaenomeles speciosa, and others, suitable pots can be selected in November for potting, and water management strengthened, so they can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks, and large halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of our country enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across our country, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent hard frosts. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects of work: first, doing well the work of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; second, doing well the work of pruning, cleaning, and digging and fertilizing open-ground flowers and trees; third, doing well the preparatory work of composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in a greenhouse in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry, and African daisy; flowering shrub species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand to promote germination include: rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly types, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering shrub species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings in December include: Japanese apricot (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda rose, and miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with a heel), Spiraea, and boxwood types. Among these, Japanese apricot and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to retain warmth and moisture.

In the greenhouse, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, Echeveria, purslane tree, Kalanchoe, kalanchoe, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, wax begonia, begonia (Begonia maculata), Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana, Schefflera, winter daphne, pothos, and Cordyline. Using cold frames, gardenia, golden-center (golden-edge) boxwood, Mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, chamaecyparis, serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, and Triarrhena can also be propagated by cuttings. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, grape, and the like can be cut and stored in sand for rooting in spring of the following year.

    3. Grafting. Superior Japanese apricot cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant at a certain spacing in the seedbed, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; be careful not to let water seep into the union when watering, cover with plastic film to retain warmth and moisture, and remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts the following spring. Using dug-up wild rose plants, bud-graft superior rose cultivars; or use vigorous branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivar scions onto the upper end, then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' segments in a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; do not let water seep into the union when watering, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and warmth, and remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts the following spring; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to retain moisture.

    4. Layering. Flowering shrub species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Japanese apricot, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliflora, snowball viburnum, Weigela florida, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, liriope, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red-flowered oxalis, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, big-leaf liriope, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Kalanchoe, and Aglaonema. When cutting off basal offsets from large colorful bromeliad plants for division, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three to four months; otherwise, the colorful bands of the separated offsets easily disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis, Spiraea japonica, Caragana, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, jasmine, Chloranthus, Magnolia liliflora, gardenia, sisal, Bambusa multiplex, and Pleioblastus.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flowers moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia types, Gomphrena types, African marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly types, camphor tree, and photinia types. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification to promote germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flowerbeds in December include: dianthus types, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, and pansy; the following spring they can be used for street display.

    In December, most deciduous landscaping trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, white magnolia, Magnolia liliflora, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Sophora japonica, and Sophora japonica var. pendula. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious; evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, and holly. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main leader and large branches, remove most of the leaves, and also retain a large root ball; bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering shrubs that can be potted in December include: Japanese apricot, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Hall crabapple. Place them in a plastic tunnel for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-rimmed narcissus, and the like continue to be kept in the tunnel for flower forcing, which can promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In a simple plastic tunnel with a temperature no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freezing damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus, and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, pocket coconut, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, Lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, Chinese hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in a double-layer plastic tunnel. For species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, Peperomia, Calathea, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, pink-striped Calathea, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybrid, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, golden shrimp plant, Aglaonema, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Paphiopedilum, sago palm, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in a double-layer tunnel with good sealing performance, appropriate heating must also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, Japanese apricot, crabapple types, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Quercus acutissima, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood types, Podocarpus macrophyllus, trident maple, Platycladus orientalis, Chinese juniper, red cedar, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, and Fraxinus 'Dui Jie Bai La', when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage- and fruit-viewing plants must not only be kept at a corresponding indoor temperature, but also be given attention for ventilation, and doors and windows can be opened for air exchange around noon when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also be sure not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, the standard is to keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants easily rot at the roots. When the temperature rises, watering can be increased and appropriate leaf misting given.

For those potted flower plants that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, Belgian azalea, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and fruit-viewing types such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, four-season mandarin, kumquat, winter cherry, Ardisia crenata, and nandina, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf misting must also be given, to promote the swelling of flower buds and also increase the brightness of the flowers and fruit.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf misting should also be given so that the leaf surfaces remain clean at all times; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink-striped Calathea, Syngonium, Calathea, croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling watering to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the best time for watering is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted outdoor flowering shrubs, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking, and dropping.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering shrubs, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

For most landscaping trees and flowering shrubs grown in the ground, such as crabapple types, southern magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia liliflora, Manglietia, Michelia types, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, herbaceous peony, tree peony, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, grape, rose, Spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Cryptomeria, cedar, cypress types, Sophora japonica var. pendula, flowering almond, plum, Neillia, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, in December, while digging the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, azalea, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, bromeliads, winter daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and shaped topiary balls that were not fully pruned in November; for hedges and green walls such as privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum, big-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; and for topiary balls such as Ilex cornuta, bayberry, photinia, boxwood types, Pittosporum, Forsythia viridissima, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Sabina chinensis, while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering shrubs that were not fully pruned in November, such as rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, Japanese apricot, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is finished, bury fertilizer around the root system.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Fujian tea, trident maple, Quercus acutissima, Fraxinus 'Dui Jie Bai La', firethorn, serissa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December to build a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering shrubs whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple types, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species of flowering shrubs in greenhouses and tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flowering shrub species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaonema, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground cultivated Pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale; at this time, spraying with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and potting soil preparation, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and the like into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Pile dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, and branches in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings, and pigeon manure with garden soil for composting, seal and ferment, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil the following year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using the winter leisure time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible to prepare for next spring's repotting and potting of herbaceous flowers. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then thoroughly mixed, covered with plastic film, or piled indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Digging and freezing soil. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for plots for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and the like can be applied before plowing; without making beds for the time being, after overwintering and freezing, ditches can be drawn and beds made in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, chamaecyparis, Chinese juniper, Platycladus orientalis, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, Euonymus, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Corylopsis, tamarisk, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Chaenomeles cathayensis, Chinese boxwood, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Fraxinus 'Dui Jie Bai La', and Quercus acutissima.

For bonsai plants that have been fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has been in place for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the original binding material should be removed and the plant re-tied and pulled with metal wire or palm rope.

For ground-planted shaped Japanese apricot stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, and the like, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used the following year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a location that does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of our country enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperatures of the year occur. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do well the work of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, and the like in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, cleaning of dead branches and fallen leaves, and digging and preparing the land and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in a greenhouse in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry, and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open ground include: rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: Japanese apricot (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), red-leaf plum, rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), Spiraea, boxwood types, pomegranate, silver bud willow, Mahonia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, serissa, Triarrhena, Hypericum, Forsythia viridissima, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, and Jasminum. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in the greenhouse include: jasmine, Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, Bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, clearweed (Pilea), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, rubber tree, winter daphne, red-backed euphorbia, Aglaonema, pothos, and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, Hydrangea macrophylla, plane tree, and fig can be cut and stored in sand for rooting in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior Japanese apricot cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them in the seedbed and cover with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, four-season mandarin and kumquat are often propagated by bud grafting; using dug-up wild rose for bud grafting superior rose cultivars, with the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivars, grafting and cutting propagation carried out simultaneously, covered with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: Magnolia liliflora, camellia, Japanese apricot, Weigela florida, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: liriope, big-leaf liriope, silver-edged liriope, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, pink zephyr lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant types, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Kalanchoe, bromeliads, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Caragana, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, gardenia, Triarrhena, boxwood, and Magnolia liliflora.

    6. Seed collection. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter cherry seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly types, and Ardisia crenata can be collected, treated, and stratified in sand to promote germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including magnolia types, Michelia types, photinia types, and holly types, to see whether the seeds have become moldy; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, re-rubbed and washed, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage again; if the seeds are found to be dry, give timely supplementary misting; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, and the like to retain warmth and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in relatively less cold regions include: dianthus types, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in relatively colder regions, sown seedlings such as dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose can be potted and first placed in a simple plastic tunnel, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for display in street flowerbeds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and landscaping trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple types, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, white magnolia, Magnolia liliflora, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena, rose, Sophora japonica, and Sophora japonica var. pendula. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum, in this month, except in special circumstances, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered sites, with heavy cutback after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also possible.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the land preparation process for forestry afforestation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Rhododendron simsii, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and Euonymus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, Ilex cornuta, Ilex cornuta, holly, and Quercus acutissima, heavy cutback must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial, high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold-protection and insulation work is the top priority in management; even a slight lapse can bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai over the winter. Based on the lower limit of the minimum temperature each different flower species can tolerate, you should create a special safe overwintering environment for them, whether in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or planted in the ground in the open. In a simple plastic tunnel not below 0°C, you can place ornamental plant species that can tolerate lows of around 0°C, such as Asparagus densiflorus, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra elatior, Fatsia japonica, Livistona chinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Rhapis excelsa, Nandina domestica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Ardisia crenata, Daphne odora, Cycas revoluta, Acorus calamus, Bambusa multiplex f. fernleaf, and Pleioblastus fortunei. In a double-layer plastic tunnel not below 5°C, you can place ornamental plant species that can tolerate lows of around 5°C, such as Araucaria heterophylla, Ficus elastica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, Chamaedorea elegans, Aglaonema, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus limon, Dypsis lutescens, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Bambusa ventricosa, Rhododendron hybridum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, and Lantana camara. In a double-layer plastic tunnel or greenhouse with auxiliary heating equipment, you can place flower species that can tolerate lows of around 10°C, such as Codiaeum variegatum, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta arundinacea, Bromeliaceae, Peperomia, Coleus scutellarioides, Dracaena sanderiana, Caryota mitis, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Fittonia argyroneura, Spathiphyllum, Philodendron, Aglaonema commutatum, Aglaonema, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Zamia furfuracea, Adenium obesum, Dieffenbachia seguine, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pachystachys lutea, and Justicia carnea. During especially cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, it is advisable to add straw mats on top of the tunnel, and only stop adding them once the temperature turns warm. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise the plants can easily suffer freeze damage. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flowers and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus and Chaenomeles, Rhododendron simsii, Punica granatum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Xylosma racemosum, Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria sinensis, Buxus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, and Fraxinus chinensis, you can bury them together with the pots in the soil; at not below -10°C they generally will not suffer freeze damage, and during especially cold weather you can add a plastic film or soft straw mulch for insulation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in a tunnel, in a greenhouse, or indoors, including fruit and foliage plants, in addition to maintaining the appropriate air temperature for them, you should also do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. You can open doors and windows for ventilation around noon when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, you must also try to avoid letting cold wind blow directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and tunnels during every cold air intrusion from the south; if broken glass, torn film, and the like are found, plug and repair them promptly to avoid freezing the potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to the greenhouse, also check carefully so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or tunnel, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage and the like.

To force tree peonies to bloom at Spring Festival, you can place potted tree peonies in a greenhouse, heat them to 18°C to 25°C during the day, keep them at around 10°C at night, and increase light by 4 to 5 hours per day (incandescent lamps); they can be expected to bloom around Spring Festival. You can also place potted plum, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Jasminum nudiflorum, and the like in a tunnel at around 15°C for flower forcing, and appropriately increase the light duration, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering plants during Spring Festival. For potted hyacinth, tulip, Narcissus poeticus, freesia, and the like that were placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthening water and fertilizer management can also be expected to make them usable for decorative display during Spring Festival. [page]

IV. Watering

    For watering management of potted flowers in January, first and most importantly, pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even make the plants drop leaves, rot roots, or die. The watering time is best arranged within 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, tunnels, and rooms, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly, and when the temperature rises, you can increase the amount of watering and spray water on the leaves. For the vast majority of foliage plants, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to spray water on the leaves, always keeping the plant leaves clean. For foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta arundinacea, Codiaeum variegatum, and the like, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can tolerate, watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flower species that will bloom around Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pericallis hybrida, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Primula, Hyacinthus orientalis, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Calendula officinalis, and the like, and fruit-viewing types such as Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Ardisia crenata, Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, Solanum pseudocapsicum, and the like, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds expand and also to increase the bright color of the fruit.

   Although potted flowers need little water in January, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and to replenish watering promptly for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering promptly; especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, also spray water on the leaves appropriately around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and dropping because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilizing

For most field-planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, such as Malus and Chaenomeles, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia, Acer, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Tilia, Lagerstroemia indica, Campsis grandiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Cerasus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Trachycarpus fortunei, Schima superba, Machilus, Nyssa sinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Buxus, Vitis vinifera, Viburnum odoratissimum, Rosa chinensis, Hydrangea macrophylla, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Liriodendron chinense, Deutzia scabra, Philadelphus incanus, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Salix babylonica var. aureo-pendula, Ulmus pumila var. pendula, Cryptomeria fortunei, Taiwania cryptomerioides, Cedrus deodara, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica f. pendula, Exochorda racemosa, Hibiscus syriacus, Syringa oblata, Lagerstroemia indica, Photinia serratifolia, Nandina domestica, Phyllostachys nigra, Punica granatum, Eriobotrya japonica, and the like, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil you can bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, and the like around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in a greenhouse at around 10°C to 15°C, such as Rhododendron hybridum, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen persicum, Narcissus poeticus, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa, Vriesea, Clivia miniata, Strelitzia reginae, Schlumbergera truncata, and the like, you can continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to help plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants, bonsai, and the like placed in tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls, and topiary balls that were not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Rosa banksiae, Campsis grandiflora, Wisteria sinensis, Rosa hybrida, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Sapium sebiferum, Photinia serratifolia, Punica granatum, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Trachycarpus fortunei, Vitis vinifera, and the like, continue pruning; after pruning is completed, then bury and apply basal fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root systems, to meet their spring growth needs.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Carmona retusa, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Juniperus formosana, and the like, you can continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunks and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and disease control

For the main trunks or large branches of Malus and Chaenomeles, Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, Chaenomeles sinensis, Eriobotrya japonica, Prunus persica, Cerasus serrulata, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, and the like that have been hollowed out by Aromia bungii and the like, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear away the leaves under Rosa chinensis, Rosa rugosa, Vitis vinifera, Lagerstroemia indica, and the like, gather them and burn them in a concentrated way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, Ceroplastes rubens, Icerya purchasi, Diaspididae, Unaspis yanonensis, Pseudococcidae, Ortheziidae, and the like appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum tobira, Platanus orientalis, Ligustrum lucidum, Pyracantha fortuneana, Diospyros kaki, Gardenia jasminoides, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Photinia serratifolia, and the like, spray with high-concentration methidathion, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, and the like to kill them, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on Pericallis hybrida in the greenhouse, and gray mold easily appearing on Primula leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, and the like in the greenhouse, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray dimethoate and other pesticides for control.

For gray mold appearing on Cyclamen persicum plants in the greenhouse, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and the like into a water tank or vat to soak and ferment, so it can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dry grass, branches, fallen leaves, and the like in layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn, to make home-made burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco dust, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, and the like with garden soil and pile them for fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and freezing of soil

For nursery land that was not yet turned over in December, you can seize the time in early January to plow it; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, soil and miscellaneous manure, and the like, and after overwintering and freezing of the soil, in early spring make drainage furrows and beds, for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility, and ease of shaping operations, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Ginkgo biloba, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa', Sabina chinensis, Serissa japonica, Sabina procumbens, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, Corylopsis sinensis, Euonymus alatus, Ficus microcarpa, Wisteria sinensis, and the like. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic tunnel, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the parts that may have been damaged during shaping heal.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and the like, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, remove the original binding material and redo the wiring and training.

    In January, for some shallow-pot stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which can damage the plant's fine roots and can also cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent plants planted on small stones from dying after freezing, and it is best to place them in a place that does not freeze, and water and spray them regularly, only then can they be ensured a safe winter.