Hydroponic lotus cultivation is becoming a new trend in floriculture

Hydroponic lotus cultivation is a cleaner, more advanced, and more industrialized cultivation method developed on the basis of soilless culture. Hydroponic lotus has won the favor of lotus lovers with its cleanliness, excellent effects in viewing leaves, flowers, fruits, and roots, and convenient maintenance, becoming a new trend in floriculture. The main technical points of hydroponic lotus cultivation are:

Container: Since the horizontal rhizome of the lotus growing in water contains many tubular air channels, this increases its buoyancy in water. If a general hydroponic container is used, the lotus rhizome will inevitably float, the plant will topple over, and it cannot grow normally. A plastic or glass pot with a mesh grid layer is watertight as a whole and has a decorative function; the lower layer of the pot is the rhizome growth layer, where the rhizome is confined by the grid and cannot float, while its leaf buds and flower buds can extend out through the mesh holes into the water layer and up into the air.

Nutrient solution: At present, the nutrient solution required for hydroponic lotus is mostly prepared by the growers themselves. In the second week of hydroponics, use 20 granules of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer, dissolve in water, and add the upper clear liquid free of impurities to the pot. In the fourth week, add the special hydroponic fertilizer for clivia (Clivia miniata) sold in flower markets, using it according to the instructions on the package. These two fertilizers can be used alternately, and growers should always observe the results and apply them flexibly.

Light: Lotus especially loves sunlight. During the flower bud differentiation stage, if there is more than a week of cloudy, rainy, and low-temperature weather, the next batch of flowering will be noticeably reduced. If it is a sunny, hot, and dry season, hydroponic lotus will enter its peak flowering period.

A new trend in indoor flower growing: hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different kinds of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need controlled water to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants are sensitive to oxygen deficiency and require regular aeration of the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different kinds of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas must be used. Therefore, flower plants must undergo proper acclimation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including
money tree (Pachira aquatica), money plant (Epipremnum aureum), peperomia (Peperomia), sunflower plant (Helianthus), arrowroot (Maranta), little angel (Syngonium), marianne (Dieffenbachia), sansevieria (Sansevieria), golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid (Anoectochilus) and snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata). Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements required for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and chlorine. It is a colorless, odorless, and non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two parts of concentrated solution?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they may precipitate with one another and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure sufficient and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solution currently sold on the market is only one part, its nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower root system and should not be too much. In general, when the root system is well developed, part of the roots should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Do not add too much nutrient solution to the container, but do not add too little either; if there is too little, the nutrient solution will need to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is sufficient.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sun exposure?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, but because hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed regularly on a balcony with somewhat stronger light. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day each week is sufficient.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each kind of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every kind of flower requires its own corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to select different nutrient solutions according to different major categories, and of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Culture Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown directly in soil be converted directly to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must be done after a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-grown flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them into a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do flowers and fish grown together need feeding?

Answer: No feeding is needed. Because the fish in flower-fish co-culture are mostly small species, these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, they are instead likely to overeat and die, and adding feed also tends to make the nutrient solution cloudy and reduce the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the rate of water consumption by the plant. If the weather is dry and the plant is large, generally after about 15-20 days the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution is sufficient. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; only add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
A discussion of household hydroponic flower experience

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, with no odor and clean sanitation. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, reducing labor in flower growing. 3) Light weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor display. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), spotted dumb cane (Dieffenbachia), monstera (Monstera deliciosa), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), aloe (Aloe), inch plant (Tradescantia), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), fuchsia (Fuchsia) and so on. In addition, scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), azalea (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), amaryllis (Hippeastrum), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis) and other flowering plants also have good results when grown hydroponically. Boston fern (Nephrolepis), calendula (Calendula officinalis), petunia (Petunia), red-back eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis) and others have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Container. Any beautiful watertight container can be used. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (cut off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, etc., and the opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. 2) Bedding material. Bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Timing for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but this also varies by flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia and others are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the peak flowering period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and soil, wash the soil off the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that are decayed or aged; if fibrous roots are dense, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken not to damage new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes; this both sterilizes and disinfects and can promote new root growth. After that, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water cutting method. Select robust, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made 2-3 mm below a node, and the cut surface should be smoothed with a sharp knife (wiped clean and disinfected with liquor in advance), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to promote rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water use and water changing for hydroponics. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-settling, and contains various trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily settles, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Changing water. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, while the roots produce mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. Changes in water quality are directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once about every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes root water shortage and affects growth.

6. Adding nutrient solution for hydroponics. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will form. Along with the growth of the flower plant, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with changing the water. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies by flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Each type of special nutrient solution must be used for its intended purpose, avoiding mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as with pothos and spotted dumb cane.

Techniques for preventing and controlling pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, and larvae; if these are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these agents can kill insects and sterilize, they can also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by manual capture or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round water-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy, high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, and nutrient solution concentration that is too high or cannot be absorbed in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, and viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become disconnected and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below a node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the disconnected section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the node, and at this point nutrient solution cultivation can be used instead. Lucky bamboo, pothos, ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum) and others can all use this method.

Complete household hydroponic flower manual

Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and convert them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into static water, and after rooting cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple; these small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that produce many offshoots, such as clivia and bromeliads, hydroponics can be carried out by removing rooted offshoots.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Use cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no drainage holes.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (suitable ratio) and complete mineral nutrients essential for flower plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macronutrients: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Micronutrients: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 mL).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel, pour in hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with distinctive charm.

When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. Both have been strictly treated, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water contains unstable nutrient elements as the composition of the water source changes. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flower plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let the tap water out, store it in a relatively wide-mouthed bucket for several days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing, you can add 3 to 5 granules of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) to 10 kg of tap water and stir evenly, which can also remove chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which helps flowers absorb trace elements, keeps physiological metabolism undisturbed, ensures normal growth, and keeps leaves green.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under root oxygen deficiency conditions, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve flower quality, foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer solution should not be allowed to run off; the underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers thrive with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for viewing leaves and also for enjoying flowers, such as white calla lily (Zantedeschia), four-season begonia (Begonia cucullata), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), etc., during the bud stage a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flower plants used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or from tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-tolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with leaf edges scorched and dry, old leaves turning yellow, drooping, and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can also occur. Some flowers are more cold-tolerant, such as English ivy, periwinkle (Vinca), and candle plant (Senecio articulatus), and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and the leaf margins show scorched brown spots, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperature, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each kind of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally, placing them indoors, in living rooms, or in offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, can fully meet their light needs. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, lose the color of their leaves in weak light and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plants have phototropism. The orientation of displayed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as monstera and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaf surface. For larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for normal flower growth. Static hydroponic flowers are displayed indoors, and if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, this is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment hydroponic flowers can neither obtain the light they need nor have fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. Places where hydroponic flowers are displayed should open doors and windows regularly to form air convection and let outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required for hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner, which is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays especially need to do this work well.

Prevention and control of pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, and larvae; if these are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these agents can kill insects and sterilize, they can also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by manual capture or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round water-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy, high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching sunlight, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, and nutrient solution concentration that is too high or cannot be absorbed in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, and viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become disconnected and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with disconnected sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below a node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the disconnected section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the node, and at this point nutrient solution cultivation can be used instead. Lucky bamboo, pothos, ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum) and others can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate for display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air, so displaying a few appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, flowers and people will compete for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered that based on room area, growing one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters is more suitable. By this standard, for a room of 50 square meters to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their cleanliness, beauty, and ease of care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, the following four "shoulds" must be noted:

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If a type unsuitable for hydroponics is purchased for water cultivation, it will soon gradually die because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of terrestrial plants that are relatively less drought-tolerant are all more suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), philodendron (Philodendron), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), etc.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they require relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with only slight protection include monstera (Monstera deliciosa), purple-leaf oyster plant (Tradescantia pallida), aloe (Aloe), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), etc.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so they must be carefully identified when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright and vigorous branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it requires no special care. Usually, it is only necessary to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely separated from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-grown flowers, pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are separated from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials for planting. We can not only enjoy the flowers and leaves, but also enjoy the usually unseen process of root growth and their endlessly varied beauty, which is very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not require cultivation in a planting basket to produce water roots, nor does it require early computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives the product greater profit space, and increases the product's competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting basket is used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. Thus some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow indoors at home hydroponically, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically; the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly four hundred. If you have a sunlight or artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants with very good results as well. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, it is not easy for mosquitoes and insects to breed in the nutrient solution, and if when changing water you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil of your soil-grown potted flowers, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Facts have proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, temperature, and so on. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissue in their bodies; the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be delivered through the air-conducting tissue to the root system for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air. Some flowers, although lacking both air-conducting tissue and oxygen-absorbing aerial roots, are nevertheless very adaptable to hydroponic conditions. But if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of normal growth and development for some flowers, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, it is necessary to choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and not blindly carry out cultivation, so as to avoid failure in hydroponics.

Flower types adaptable to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after soil-grown plants are washed with water, most of the original roots can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adaptable to hydroponics include pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), spotted dumb cane (Dieffenbachia), silver king (Aglaonema), golden queen (Dieffenbachia), clustered peace lily (Spathiphyllum), mini monstera (Monstera), monstera (Monstera deliciosa), white calla lily (Zantedeschia), green gem (Philodendron), philodendron (Philodendron), fiddle-leaf philodendron (Philodendron), green emperor philodendron (Philodendron), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), anthurium (Anthurium), jade gem (Philodendron) and so on.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple-leaf oyster plant (Tradescantia pallida), purple-back spiderwort (Tradescantia spathacea), bamboo-leaf-like tradescantia (Tradescantia), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), etc.; all can root and grow rapidly when grown by water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe (Aloe), triangular aloe (Aloe), Haworthia, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa), dragon blood tree (Dracaena), horsetail iron (Dracaena), snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), agave (Agave), golden-edged lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), sea onion (Urginea), silver-edged evergreen (Rohdea japonica), silver-edged lilyturf (Ophiopogon) and so on.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adaptable to hydroponic conditions, such as aeonium (Aeonium), sedum (Sedum), silver wave sedum (Sedum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) and so on.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics also include Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), purple velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca), blue pine (Kochia), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), beefsteak begonia (Begonia), green gem (Philodendron), clivia (Clivia miniata), paphiopedilum (Paphiopedilum), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), dusty miller (Senecio cineraria), candle plant (Senecio articulatus), leaf cactus (Pereskia), triangular bamboo (Bambusa), pineapple (Ananas), earth star (Cryptanthus), chloranthus (Chloranthus), star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), dragon bone (Euphorbia), colorful cloud (Euphorbia), variegated periwinkle (Vinca major variegata), red-back eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), four seas wave (Haworthia), English ivy (Hedera helix), common ivy (Hedera helix), lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii) and so on.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very adaptable to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high overwintering temperature requirements. For example, some species of the genus Dieffenbachia and croton require overwintering temperatures above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead vine, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and Dracaena species also require overwintering temperatures above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter, this is of course not a problem, but for most households, safely bringing these flowers through the cold winter is still very difficult. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the whole plant after overwintering, due to low-temperature cold damage the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, have scorched leaf tips or margins, or develop new scorched spots on the leaves, and may even cause massive leaf drop or partial death of branches and leaves, thereby losing ornamental value. Therefore, when there is no stable heating condition, attention must be paid to choosing flower types with stronger cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as evergreen (Rohdea japonica), star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), agave (Agave), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), jade plant (Crassula ovata), sea onion (Urginea), variegated lilyturf (Ophiopogon) and so on, which can withstand low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as monstera (Monstera deliciosa), purple-leaf oyster plant (Tradescantia pallida), bamboo-leaf tradescantia (Tradescantia), aloe (Aloe), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), silver wave sedum (Sedum), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), purple velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca), dusty miller (Senecio cineraria), chloranthus (Chloranthus), colorful cloud (Euphorbia), variegated periwinkle (Vinca major variegata), common ivy (Hedera helix), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii) and so on, which can overwinter safely with only slight protection.

Of course, some flowers such as red gem philodendron (Philodendron), green gem philodendron (Philodendron), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), croton (Codieaum variegatum) and so on, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

The shade tolerance issue

Because indoor light conditions are poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that prefer partial shade or tolerate partial shade. At the same time, even shade-preferring or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Croton (Codiaeum variegatum), purple-leaved spiderwort (Tradescantia pallida), and inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina) need ample diffused light, whereas peace lily (Spathiphyllum), giant taro (Alocasia), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), and silver king (Aglaonema commutatum) all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Since different rooms and different lighting conditions within a room vary, suitable flower species should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location, to ensure normal growth and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it causes leggy growth of branches and leaves, thin stems, longer internodes, smaller and deformed leaves, loss of green color and loss of their proper luster; leaves with colored stripes fade and lose color, and even large numbers of leaves drop, thus seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Techniques for growing spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) in water

Spider plant, with its fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, is refreshing and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. For a single-layer bottle, take a plastic bottle or ceramic bottle without a bottom hole and plant the spider plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, take a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Take the potted or field-grown spider plant out of the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, diseased and pest-damaged leaves), keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, fill the bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in the water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle; place ceramic pellets or large-grained stone rice (large granules) in the sieve to let the spider plant stand upright, and fill the lower bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution. After potting is complete, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, with water input through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, fill with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Nutrient solution is added at the same time as water is added or changed through the roots; for foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: The spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers wither, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

The outstanding choice for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family comprise more than 2,500 species in 105 genera, originating in tropical Asia, arising in water areas or swamps of forest regions. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and so on. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophilous species, some have aerial roots, some readily produce adventitious roots, and some readily develop aerenchyma under stress environments.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severely oxygen-deficient state, and the prerequisite for success is correctly selecting plant species, that is, ones that have close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed around aquatic genetic genes as the center. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophilous evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is almost distributed across the freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds, and is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, water arum (Calla palustris), and taro (Colocasia esculenta).
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation,” a repetition on a higher foundation. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, phenomenally forming a “negation” of the aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another “negation,” which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation.” It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to the order Arales, which has only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which consists of floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolve forward around aquatic genetic genes as the center, along a nearly spiral curve.
3. The relationships of the order Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and that a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor (primitive lily-like plants) with Arecales and Commelinales, and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward around aquatic genetic genes as the center, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlations with Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons; for example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will degrade water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with the nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and discolored, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone with your hand, and its epidermis is very easily torn off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, it should be cut off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tips; after pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, pay attention to observation; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles, jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene rigid foam boxes (cases), etc., with a little tidying up, they can become hydroponic carriers of varying sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes the best use of materials, but also greens the surrounding environment, with quite a delightful feeling of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-laminated square beverage boxes, and so on, which originally held liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold-drink cup that just fits about 1/3 into the mouth, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the root system can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, of the kind used for garment interlining. Gently rinse the soil off the seedling to be hydroponically grown or the purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (scraps cut from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions, etc.), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material; some is yellow, some is yellow with white) to thicken it, so that it can just be inserted into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above is available, floral foam can also be properly cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should ensure a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to successful hydroponics. By means of the wicking action of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance from the liquid level to the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a shading material, to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae that compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sun exposure, it is best to have shade measures, or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white rigid polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock protection, or corrugated cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, etc. with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the box with black agricultural film, to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough that the selected plastic cold-drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 of the cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter, to be used for normally inspecting the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm thick that is 2.5 to 3 cm smaller on each of its four sides than the net area inside the box, as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm thick when dry), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to serve as a wick for the nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The wicking cotton layer should extend about 6 cm beyond each of the four sides of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from the four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to wick it up, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant's root system can stretch freely on the floating board, coming into more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of general static hydroponics, in which the nutrient solution cannot circulate and oxygen cannot be supplied.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be wicked up. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space inside the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added, until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, a foul odor, or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, until fully renewed.

The requirements of hydroponic flowers for a moist environment and good ventilation

Foliage flowers mostly originate from warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the sprayed droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run down. For the leaves of flowers that are relatively firm and have a waxy film, such as Monstera and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flower; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is stale, is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home without opening doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, letting outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry, withered leaf tips in flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display need this work done even more.

The light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is diffused light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaf surfaces in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless; such flowers can only maintain their leaf color luster in an environment with relatively ample light that is not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism; the orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined and completed together with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. Turn the flower, after its root system has been cleaned, 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, and the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and growing upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius their tissues will become necrotic. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius, and if there are several days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; while in the north, because most rooms have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer, and at the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to have their nutrient solution replaced after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and need the soil changed once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, in the vigorous growing spring and summer, the water change interval should be shorter, and in autumn and winter when growth is slow, it can be longer.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrates, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms; as soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select satisfactory potted cyclamen flowers and prepare the container to be used for hydroponic cyclamen; once the preparatory work is done, you can start making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased potted cyclamen, together with the substrate (flower soil), should be turned out of the pot and placed under a faucet to rinse the substrate clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. You can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin of water, rinse the substrate off in the water, and then rinse clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, trying as much as possible to avoid injuring the cyclamen root system. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, add water, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain 4-6 weeks of normal growth and flowering. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one of the factors. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of the cyclamen plants. This all relies entirely on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Hoya

Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: 1) labor-saving; 2) hygienic; 3) few pests and diseases; 4) simple management; 5) long flowering period; 6) roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed, and so on.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest- and disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), place a few attractive river stones at the bottom of the bottle, move the prepared Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days; second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water; third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the Hoya crown, half a milliliter each time, and thereafter inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers wither, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom once again.

There is a big difference between flower water culture and hydroponics

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people for being fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and convenient to combine. On the surface, water culture and hydroponics have the same cultivation form, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have swollen bulbs, which store abundant nutrients; their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water to fix it, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, and so on. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs, to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (for lucky bamboo, change the water once every 7 to 10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight, so that they grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, on the other hand, have the plant root system fixed on the cover board or floating board of the flower pot, with the root system immersed in water, and the water must be provided with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so hydroponic flowers are also called nutrient solution culture. Flowers suitable for hydroponics have plant habits and internal structures suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), evergreen (Aglaonema), clustered taro (Alocasia), Monstera, gem stone plant (Graptopetalum), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), and so on.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation induction technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers in 9 series, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. There are also some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as tiger tongue orchid (Epipactis), that have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutagenized hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed; the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation induction, the plant's aquatic root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender and fresh than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note to control the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

A brief introduction to flower hydroponic techniques

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation; there are many methods, and several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: characterized by the plant root system being fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants; on this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag was changed to a plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming an internal dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Mist cultivation technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Mist cultivation can also be used for cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used; the surroundings of the bottle are wrapped with black plastic film, or coated all over with black paint, or covered with a layer of black paper, to the degree that the inside of the bottle is not light-transmitting. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae breeding. In summer, a layer of white paper should be wrapped around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant in, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full, and leave a gap to give the plant oxygen for respiration. If it is water insertion to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing the solution: For small seedlings, depending on the situation, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks. For mature flowers, change once a week during the summer peak growth season, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in the non-growing season.

Ventilation: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, ventilation can be omitted for more than 1 consecutive month.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should be added to the bottle frequently to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself; the formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-6.5)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, cupric chloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL of water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

1) Water insertion method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed with. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root and sprout and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, and others are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

2) Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and switch to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Plant the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and add tap water to a level covering 2/3 to 1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and the vessel; after a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and you can change the water once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

3) Tiller bud removal method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple, with a high survival rate. Select larger tiller buds, remove the upper soil to expose the connection point with the mother plant, and use your hands or a sharp blade to detach the tiller bud from the mother plant (protect the roots of the tiller bud well), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

4) Runner plantlet removal method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets, most of which carry a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plant and pineapple. Taking advantage of this characteristic of flowers, picking off the formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera, clivia, pothos, tillandsia, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, amaryllis, and gladiolus.

Strategies for the difficult points of summer care of hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficult points of hydroponic flowers getting through the summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants cultivated with non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, which may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even cause the entire flower to die. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely get through the summer.

Water-cultured silver-edged grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. Introduced below are several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and it can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown aquatic roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, the root system should be patiently rinsed with clean water, withered roots and rotten roots removed, and aged roots cut short to promote new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or there are mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breeding, the nutrient solution should be replaced with new nutrient solution immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers with relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, vibration can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times; after shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

Hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poor root development are not suitable for the vibration oxygenation method; the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a miniature circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; when working, the nutrient solution circulates and flows in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar,” and their growth is obviously better than static hydroponics.

The cleaning and solution changing of the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate into the vessel

If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, put the sand head into the static hydroponic flower vessel to aerate (the airflow should not be too large, lest the nutrient solution splash out), and use the flow of air to increase oxygen; the effect is also quite good.

3. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Most of the flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers enjoyed for both flowers and leaves. Such as arrowhead vine (Syngonium), white jade evergreen (Aglaonema), silver bract taro (Spathiphyllum), anthurium, bromeliads, and so on. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are slightly shade-tolerant, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in a bright, slightly humid, relatively cool environment with good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but also do not make it too shady, lest the flower's photosynthesis be hindered, growth weakens, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture becomes thin. This causes the leaves of flowers with colored patches and colored patterns to lose their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast wind speed will damage the branches and leaves, ranging from leaf curling to scorched edges and withering in severe cases. It should also be considered that flowers' temperature requirements are higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, it is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaf surfaces to increase environmental humidity, and place the flowers farther from the air conditioner outlet; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

5. What should be done if hydroponic flowers suffer root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature will also rise, microbial cultivation accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, can all cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), horse tail iron (fine-leaved dragon tree, Dracaena marginata), and five-colored dragon tree (Dracaena concinna).

The following method can restore rotten-rooted flowers to healthy growth:

① Remove all the rotten roots completely; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut away the infected parts.

② Soak the pruned flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilise them.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the washed flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1-2 days, using only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water stays clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can begin to sprout.

⑥ When the new roots first sprout, continue to grow them in clean water; once the temperature stabilises at 18-25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

6. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when temperatures are high, the container is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the nutrient solution is left unchanged for too long, all of these can trigger massive algae growth. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, lowering the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, promptly pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in our country are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of "algae-eating insects" into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can eliminate algae growth.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

7. What fertiliser should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertiliser be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless culture. The flower roots are anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you are cultivating five or six bottles, or even a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers of various species at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a matching bottle of plant nutrient solution for each flower. For simplicity, you can choose to use a general-purpose plant nutrient solution.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, the range of application is wide, and it is suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. It is non-toxic, harmless, and its pH value and ion concentration are conducive to nutrient absorption.

There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialised hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution or only clean water for cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with slender roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, for Spathiphyllum (white flag), pothos, mini Monstera, red ruby, and Philodendron, nutrient solution cultivation helps maintain their growth advantage and enhances their ornamental quality. For flowers such as Coleus, Begonia maculata, and Bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass the summer safely.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the ratio indicated in the instructions; do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown in hydroponic conditions changes, becoming looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per litre, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

8. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, which is suitable for flower growth and makes it easy for them to adapt to the changed cultivation environment. When changing the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Choose varieties that are closely related to wetland plants. ② Choose flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Syngonium, mini Monstera, red ruby Philodendron, green giant, pothos, and some Bromeliad flowers of the Araceae family have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponic cultivation in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponic cultivation, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimising it. Use a container with a larger capacity for cultivation, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. Once the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and West Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common varieties include golden-edge lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes; and silver-edge lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo banana, a compact plant whose leaf edges are bordered with silvery-white longitudinal stripes.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures and high humidity; the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, the leaves will scorch; during the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

2: It prefers ample diffused light; when light is insufficient, the colour of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, deep green. The flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, with a yellow spadix extending straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperatures, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it must be kept above 10°C for overwintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea; the soilless-cultivated plants had a compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy manual labour, making it a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very slender and require a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing, sterilise the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water, and after air-drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertiliser solution, then cover with plastic film for one month before it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertiliser requirements. During the growing period, apply light fertiliser frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertiliser as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying a low-concentration foliar fertiliser can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: add 2 g of agricultural compound fertiliser and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 litre of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 litre of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 ml of the trace element mother solution to 1 litre of the standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertiliser: add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 litre of water.

3. Water and fertiliser management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than for soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, the plant is exactly at the stage of bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertiliser, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertiliser about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is high; in addition to daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertiliser requirement is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertiliser once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the onset of the dog days, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spraying water on the leaves; the fertiliser amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the weather turns cool in autumn, the fertiliser amount can be gradually increased, applying full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month and spraying foliar fertiliser 1-2 times, to promote robust growth of flower buds. After the onset of winter, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertiliser should not be applied; simply water appropriately according to the dryness and wetness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, pests and diseases basically did not occur.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths like palm fibre. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers a warm, shady, moist, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and in winter it should be kept above 4°C; it can tolerate short periods of low temperatures around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Choose plants with large, dense clumps. First lift the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant form, then repot them again. After watering thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, moist place and frequently spray water on the leaves. Once growth resumes, they can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after harvesting, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout in the spring of the following year.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Tolerates shade, but when light is too weak it easily produces yellow leaves; when ventilation is poor, parasitic insects breed.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Potted root-washing is suitable. The roots of broadleaf lady palm are relatively hard in texture and are not prone to rotting after hydroponic cultivation, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for Gynura aurantiaca

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Gynura aurantiaca is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with purple-red fine hairs like velvet. Gynura aurantiaca is bright, beautiful, and elegant in colour, making it an excellent flower species for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Gynura aurantiaca likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment; direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shady, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Gynura aurantiaca is propagated by cuttings. During the growing period, choose sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting, place them in a shaded, moist place; they will root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch out the growing tips in time to promote the sprouting of side branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water; water roots will grow in just over 10 days. However, at high summer temperatures, the roots are prone to rotting.

2: Gynura aurantiaca grows rapidly; when the branches reach an appropriate height, pinch out the growing tips in time to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for parlour palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a dwarf plant form. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, deep green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, deep green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, moist, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum overwintering temperature in winter is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but when too shady, the leaf colour will also fade.

2: Parlour palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm; when the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and its ornamental value is reduced, so when cultivating it, small plants can be grown below.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in just a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus

We know that cacti are favoured by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but cacti, because of traditional cultivation methods, have problems of being dirty and difficult to manage. More people, because they cannot manage fertiliser and water well, end up killing their beloved plants. Now cactus cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, we must choose a cactus with a sturdy body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward; cacti grafted and cultivated with three-angled sword are easier to grow hydroponically.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots below the body, requiring the cut to be flat. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and air-dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (a transparent container makes it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam jigsaw puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing the golden ball cactus, you can cut off the mouth part of a discarded purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: the bottle mouth should be cut off so that the roots of the golden ball can emerge from the cut bottle mouth, and then place it in a flat bottle filled with nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled sword into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all the three-angled swords just touch the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, the purpose being to magnetise the nutrient solution, thereby speeding up the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy from the market a small wall-suction submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and switch on the power to achieve a flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the well-planted cactus in an environment with relatively strong diffused light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, immediately replace the nutrient solution.

Note:

During the induction process of the cactus, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the body, as this can easily cause the body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing clivia hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a clean and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, the flowers, and also the roots. You can use a glass bottle; you can also use a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant; the mouth diameter should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when cultivating in clean water, note that foliar fertilisation is needed to supply the nutrients required for clivia growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs to have its solution changed regularly; the number of changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, note to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow Amaryllis hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large Amaryllis bulbs that have flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all the roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the mushy material at the cuts with clean water, and after drying in the shade, place them in a flower container. The flower container can be a bowl, a basin, or a narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated Amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding materials, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower container. Finally, place it in a spot indoors with ample light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots will develop. The water in the pot must always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertiliser needs to be replenished in time; every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertiliser solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. In this way, the hydroponically treated bulbs will flower slightly later than other conventionally potted Amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering period when flowers are scarce.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless culture or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and its supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans have had a history of cultivation, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word for agriculture is "Agriculture", formed from Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil". Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first carried out precise experiments in soilless cultivation. They succeeded in cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts, and they called this method hydroponics. Sachs and Knop are therefore recognised as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation techniques. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into medium-based hydroponic flowers and medium-free hydroponic flowers. Medium-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; medium-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, atomised hydroponic flowers, nutrient film drip irrigation, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to successful hydroponic flower cultivation?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because there are computers to timely control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc., and there are specialised technicians using pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to timely test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. However, in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First of all, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no difference in appearance from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be medium-free soilless cultivation. Without a medium, plants are very prone to root rot and foul odours; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not to emit odours, to have no peculiar smell, and to grow normally when lacking oxygen. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and must be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialised botanical knowledge like a botanist, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and learnable by anyone at once. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation techniques, scientists have researched and successfully developed no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet all the above requirements are extremely rare. Moreover, due to commercial interests, the major flower companies treat their nutrient solution technology as their number one secret, so the nutrient solution formulas that can be obtained from public sources are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. Actually, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be determined with just a try. You only need to see whether the plants it displays are growing vigorously and whether water roots are developing, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How do hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8°C, and tissue necrosis occurs below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In southern China, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not drop below 5°C. If extreme low-temperature weather occurs for a few days, it can be solved by placing a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a localized microclimate. In the north, because most indoor spaces have heating, the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be ensured.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flower species?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all commonly seen popular flowers can be hydroponically cultivated. However, in home environments, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated. In homes with balconies, the suitable varieties are somewhat more numerous.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has sample setups with fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for keeping fish, and due to the limited volume, fish species should also be selected carefully. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Some aggressive or destructive fish species are not suitable for keeping in hydroponic flowers because they will damage the plant roots. Delicate and fragile fish are also unsuitable, because even raising them in dedicated aquariums is difficult to succeed at, let alone in relatively poor-condition small glass vases. Water changes can be done simultaneously with the normal water changes for the flowers. Feeding is the same as when we normally keep fish in fish tanks, with no difference whatsoever.
Because the special substances in "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not experience oxygen deficiency in the nutrient solution. Therefore, on days that are not particularly hot, there is no need to install aeration equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid that must be diluted before use. When diluting, tap water can generally fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During the dilution process, tap water can be directly used to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King causes the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to sudden temperature changes, which would cause the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that utilizes the principle of plant root hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction of sufficient moisture. This is demonstrated when a plant's surface soil lacks water; in order to protect itself, the plant's root tips will grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for plant growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. However, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their root growth is more chaotic without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the plant but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the pot growing toward the water. At this point, you do not need to add water; let the roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can remove a potted plant that has already grown water roots from its pot and fix the plant with a planting basket, decorating it with stones or ornaments to create a planting basket hydroponic flower. The difference is that since there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become less and less. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolic processes, harmful substances in the water increase. Therefore, hydroponic flowers need to have their nutrient solution replaced after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and annual soil replacement for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer seasons, and longer during autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or fail to grow vigorously?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or insufficient light. If these factors are ruled out, check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these apply, we suggest you go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Currently, many companies are recruiting franchisees for hydroponic flower shops, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express too many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, having witnessed everything, I cannot help but air some complaints. Because the deceptions involved not only harm consumer interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Currently, during the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants whose roots have been washed and directly soaked in water can be water-cultivated for a period of time. Flood-tolerant plants such as Araceae plants can survive in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration intensifies, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A hydroponic piece bought for dozens or hundreds of yuan to take home is merely a fleeting bloom, not only harming consumer interests but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception tactics" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. When winter comes, these plants' growth rate slows down and respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants have a relatively close genetic relationship with aquatic plants and have strong flood tolerance. After root washing and direct soaking in water, no adverse reactions can be seen from the plant's appearance for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory functions are severely impeded. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul-smelling, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial characteristics, this method simply cannot work at all, so this is the main reason why they can currently only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid would be better called "deception liquid" -- it sounds nicer and is more honest. It is simply impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a commercial gimmick. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, one could dominate the market, and franchising would truly be meaningful. But the current franchising can be described as swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content whatsoever -- it is just root washing and water soaking, which even a fool can figure out at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has undergone decades of development and is no longer a proprietary technology of any single company. Franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower shops can operate just as well, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. The franchise fee is equivalent to money thrown away. Genuine hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are currently selling are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing. It would be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Tip: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter, and early spring can also be water-cultivated for a period of time after root washing and soaking in water. Everyone might as well give it a try -- there is absolutely no need for any deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also visited several countries with relatively developed hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be described as full of charlatans of all kinds, a motley crew passing off fake goods as genuine. However, in the end, these franchise deceptions will be cleaned out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep your eyes wide open and not be misled by deception liquids.

How to distinguish genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is essentially the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. Currently, many hydroponic flower vendors do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. They only proceed from the angle of commercial gimmickry and personal profit, passing off some ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. Some citizens buy at high prices, and before long the plants die from physiological incompatibility, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake from the following aspects to avoid being deceived.

A. Distinguish by root morphology: Hydroponically induced flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not be like roots in soil with distinctions between taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs. That is, they will not exist in a multi-level branching secondary root state. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few branching levels and a simple root structure -- this is its most obvious characteristic. In addition, for some originally radicle plants, after induction, the number of primary adventitious roots increases significantly, meaning the root proportion is greatly increased, with numerous and well-developed roots resembling a beard.

B. Distinguish by root color: Water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristic of being white and crisp-tender. Even for some varieties that exhibit their natural root color, their water roots are noticeably lighter in color than soil roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots, where cells have not undergone or have rarely undergone suberization and lignification from cell wall thickening.

C. Distinguish by root integrity: Roots that have undergone aquatic induction grow and differentiate anew starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, giving the root system integrity. However, for some soil-cultivated plants, even though they have been carefully washed, there are always minor injuries or severely damaged residual roots. This kind of root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Distinguish by water clarity: Fake hydroponic products made from soil-washed seedlings, because the roots have not developed adaptability to water, in an anaerobic environment will undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, it appears turbid and not clear -- that is, water quality deterioration or foul odor, followed by root rot and eventually plant death.

E. Leaf angle can also help distinguish genuine from fake: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction, have leaf attachment angles noticeably more flat and spreading than soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation -- that is, epinastic growth leading to increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions

Apart from light, temperature, and humidity environmental factors which are completely identical to soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers have vastly different management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source. Generally, tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water undergoes filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used for cultivating hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, severely eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly. If any one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as water sources for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use low-concentration specialty nutrient solutions based primarily on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements essential for flower growth, with various elements in balanced proportions, and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, facilitating nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizers or granular chemical fertilizers for use in hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may not have obvious effects on flowers, but long-term application will inevitably interfere with normal physiological metabolism. Using organic fertilizers as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers is even more unacceptable. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, with dissolved oxygen below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient container, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen for respiration. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions is essential for normal flower growth, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of nutrient solution changes. 2. Vibration aeration: hold the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the container with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or aeration pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots in such an environment can obtain sufficient oxygen, respiration is very vigorous, and flowers are promoted to grow robustly.

Identifying fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish co-cultivated in a combination of movement and stillness, are the first intuitive impression. The early concept in China first sprouted around the beginning of the 21st century. (Although some people had earlier cultivated some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and similar easily water-cultivated plants in water, this concept does not belong to the currently popular "hydroponic flowers" concept!) It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and institutions with market vision turned to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. Coupled with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China -- some providing technical training, some producing at bases, and some franchising flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On one hand, they added fuel to the fire of domestic hydroponic flower market concept hype, letting many citizens understand and become acquainted with this new concept and product. On the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washes away the sand. Those with their own core technology and production capacity, with relatively strong economic strength and operational capability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide, and those who survived are very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new direction in the flower industry's development. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three to four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the current uneven quality of the hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the general public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

II. What are genuine hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory perspective, using glass vases of various shapes and sizes, with plants and flowers growing on top (currently, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been extended to include other woody, vine, and succulent plants), and a few cute small fish kept below -- that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, genuine hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated through various biological, physical, computer and other technical means, such that the physiological characteristics of their root systems have changed, possessing water roots with plant aeration tissue structure, and being able to adapt to long-term water cultivation -- only then can they be called genuine hydroponic flowers (plants)!

III. How to identify genuine hydroponic flowers?

Judging from sensory perception:
Hydroponic Flower Technology Status Report I. Introduction:
A successfully genuine hydroponic plant, after induction and acclimation, should have root systems that are white, elegant, with many fibrous roots, and very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants. Soil-cultivated plant roots are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root color has its own unique color, such as Chinese fringeflower, which after induction has deep red color from its roots to its branches and stem segments! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil removal, are nearly white!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it indicates that it was only recently planted in the bottle and was placed there to deceive customers! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commercial product!

Judging from a technical perspective:

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it possess professional technical proficiency?

If, as some vendors claim, all that is needed is so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid," or "nutrient solution," soaking the plant in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say just a few tens of minutes or a few minutes to achieve hydroponic flowers -- this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if plant roots are severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, leading to fermentation and root rot. As a result, large amounts of fermented substances accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aeration tissue that can well adapt to the low-oxygen state in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of water roots is not something that nutrient solution alone can fully accomplish and achieve. It requires comprehensive biological, physical, computer and other methods and means, through a relatively long period of cultivation, fully adapting to the water environment, before it can become professional genuine hydroponic flowers!

2) Does it have strong artistic combination skills and capabilities?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistically combined arrangements. Each product lies in its artistic glass vase container, beautiful plant styling, white and elegant root systems, and the perfect combination and arrangement of fish, water, plants, and ornaments inside the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, apart from natural sensory perception, strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether a manufacturer possesses such aesthetic standards!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also reveal whether a vendor has the capability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor powerful and branded manufacturers as supply sources, then such hydroponic flower providers are very likely just passing off soil-cultivated plants after root washing as "hydroponic flowers"!

Checking from the variety perspective:

The varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to those Araceae and Crassulaceae plants that are inherently easy to water-cultivate, such as peace lily, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Chinese evergreen. These plant varieties are inherently near-water and water-loving, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to hydroponically cultivate various woody plants and various water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a vendor can provide are monotonous, they are definitely not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from the time perspective:

Time is the ultimate and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term water cultivation but are merely a fleeting bloom, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators have created by washing away soil-cultivated roots, which can be produced within just a few hours, and within a few days the flowers bloom and wither! Therefore, at present, for those vendors who cannot provide a shelf life guarantee for their products, most are speculators. If a vendor cannot provide a shelf life guarantee for their products, it is recommended not to purchase, to avoid being deceived!
IV. How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "legitimate" means in their publicity and information transmission channels to deceive and fool the general consumers and investors. To prevent some who have no genuine hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, no technical personnel from renting a few offices in national universities (such as: Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as: Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as: the Retired Cadres Bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technology center of the Ministry of Agriculture) or office buildings, and then start advertising to make money -- so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology transfer companies that fight in one place and move to another have no place to stand. This also deprives those who maliciously transfer immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of their deceptive market, and more importantly, enables you to learn these genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes wide open, be more vigilant, look at more companies, and compare more. You must carefully compare the scale of the organization, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service. {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then get the phone numbers of their franchisees. Try to go to a franchisee's store to see and confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so you should think twice before acting. This is the most direct and ultimate method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use tactics like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "bar shills," deceiving you with the skill level of "Deception Master" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; You must carefully verify the authenticity of the technology, training capability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is genuinely hydroponic flowers through the product itself, actually everyone just needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following experiences and types


 How to apply foliar fertilizer to hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen deficiency conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. To improve flower quality, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilute solution can be used for foliar spraying.

A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution go to waste. The underside of leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once per week, twice during the growing season, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as peace lily, wax begonia, harlequin glorybower, and calla lily, during the bud stage, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilute solution can be sprayed on the leaves once per week until the flowers bloom.