How to grow pothos in water? Master the methods and care points
Flower hydroponics steps:
1. Choose containers. According to the specific conditions of the variety, form, specification, and flower color of the flower hydroponic plant material you intend to grow, choose substitute bottles, pots, vats, and other containers that can complement and bring out the best in that flower variety. Follow the principles for choosing hydroponic containers mentioned earlier, and buy them or process and make them yourself so that they are appropriate to use and elegant to look at. Never just grab whatever container is at hand and use it arbitrarily, so as not to affect the image of the hydroponic flowers and the beauty of the indoor decoration. Achieve unity and harmony between the containers, flowers, and the room environment, so as to achieve a relatively ideal ornamental effect.
Key point 1: Treat them gently
When we bring pothos home, we need to carefully take them out of the soil in the flowerpot, because being too rough will damage the pothos roots and further affect their later growth.
Key point 2: Water-changing frequency in the early stage
For pothos that has just been moved from soil to water, the roots that come into contact with the new water will have a corresponding physical reaction, mainly as follows: a large amount of sticky substance is secreted from the pothos roots. Therefore, to ensure the cleanliness of the water, we need to change the water once a day. Wait until no more secretions appear in the container, that is, after the water is no longer cloudy, then we can reduce the water-changing frequency to once a week.
Key point 3: Dealing with root rot and yellowing leaves
In the early stage of hydroponics, because the pothos branches, leaves, and roots all need a period of time to adapt to the new environment, yellowing and falling leaves, and even root rot, may appear. However, you do not need to worry, because these are all normal phenomena. We only need to promptly remove the yellow leaves and rotten root tendrils. And continue changing the water according to the cycle. After a period of time, the pothos will naturally revive. After everything is normal, we can add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution to ensure the pothos absorbs nutrients.
Key point 4: Fertilizer
When the pothos reaches the stage of growth and renewal, we can go buy some fertilizer. There are special fertilizers for pothos leaves. It should be noted that everyone must remember not to use fertilizer indiscriminately, otherwise it will cause fertilizer damage to the pothos. After buying the special fertilizer for pothos leaves, we can dilute it reasonably and spray it evenly on the pothos leaves. In this way, it will absorb nutrients better, and the leaves will gradually become thicker and more glossy.
Key point 5: Careful management
During the pothos growth period, careful management is needed, otherwise the pothos will not grow vigorously. Because pothos by nature likes warm and humid environments, do not expose it to strong sunlight. Normally, pothos also needs us to prune it, such as removing some especially dense leaves and weak stems.
Converting hydroponics to soil culture:
When converting pothos from hydroponics to soil culture, first take the pothos out and let it dry for a period of time until the roots have no water. Then it can be transplanted into soil. Of course, the soil must be loose and breathable.
After the pothos is converted to soil culture, we must not water too frequently, because too much water can easily cause root rot in pothos. We can, just like growing other flowers, simply water a bit more during the pothos growth period.
How to grow hydroponic pothos
Hydroponic pothos, that is, pothos grown by hydroponics. Pothos, a large evergreen vine plant. It grows in tropical regions and often climbs on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests, and can grow into a huge vine plant. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots, and can be allowed to climb on a column tied with coir. In addition, hydroponic pothos is one of the very good hydroponic plants for indoor decoration, with slender soft stems and delicate leaves. Place a nested pot high on top of a furniture cabinet and let its vines hang down calmly, or after the hanging vines grow too long, coil and hang them into a circle, just like emerald relief sculpture. Hydroponic pothos by nature likes warm and humid environments, and requires loose, fertile soil with good drainage. Hydroponic pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny indoor spot all year round. In a dimly lit room, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment for a period of time to recover, otherwise the internodes are likely to elongate and the leaves to become smaller.Friends may now have such questions about hydroponic pothos? For example, "How long does newly cut pothos need in hydroponic culture to grow roots?", "How often should the water be changed for newly cut pothos in hydroponic culture?", "How often should fertilizer be applied?" and other questions. The following article focuses on the cultivation methods and care points for hydroponic pothos:
1. Cultivation methods:
1. Choose good pothos stems. Healthy, strong stems with aerial roots are the good choice for hydroponics. After such stems with aerial roots are cut and placed in clean water, they can quickly adapt to the hydroponic environment, and within 15 to 20 days they can grow water roots;
2. Put the aerial roots into the water as well. The aerial roots can also play the role of nutrient roots, absorbing water and nutrients;
3. During the growth period, dilute special hydroponic fertilizer and spray it on the leaves, which will make the leaves more colorful;
4. Pothos vines are soft and graceful, and the leaf colors are mottled. Small plants can also be planted in wall-mounted containers, letting them slant and hang down like a green decorative curtain, fresh and elegant;
5. Just like potted pothos, hydroponic pothos also needs frequent pruning. Cut off overly long and messy stems to maintain an orderly appearance with appropriate density.
2. Care points
1. Propagation method
Propagation by cuttings
Hydroponic pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. In late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm branches, remove the leaves from 1 to 2 nodes at the base, and directly plant them in pots with culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot, water thoroughly, and place them in a cool, ventilated place. Keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will take root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. In spring and summer, cuttings from branches take root easily; for making a totem pole, cuttings must use the top shoot with large leaves, so that it takes shape relatively quickly. Hydroponic pothos can also be grown in water, but compared with soil culture the plant is smaller. For newly cut hydroponic pothos grown in hydroponic culture, it takes about within one week to grow roots
2. Light
But in the north in autumn and winter, in order to make up for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light intensity should be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the best-lit place indoors, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to bask in the sun. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open the windows as little as possible, because the leaves may be frostbitten in an extremely short time. Temperature: In the north, with an indoor temperature above 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter, and with an indoor temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have no problem reaching this temperature. What needs attention is to avoid excessive temperature differences, and also to make sure the leaves do not get close to heating equipment.
3. Humidity
Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. The following methods can be used to increase temperature. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier turned on for more than 5 hours each day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flowerpot saucer, and increase the plant's local temperature through its evaporation; use a cold wet towel or toilet paper to gently wipe the leaf surface or gently apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a small greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's water through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours per day, because too long a time will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
4. Water
The amount of watering in autumn and winter should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, the temperature is relatively low, the plant's soil evaporates relatively slowly, so watering should be reduced, and the amount of water should be controlled between 1/4 and 1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent. When watering, pour less into the pot, and water should seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the coir column, to reduce insufficient root water absorption caused by excessive evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for one day is better, because water that is too cold can easily damage the roots.
5. Fertilizing
In the autumn and winter in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply liquid inorganic fertilizer by watering or spraying, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing should mainly be foliar spraying, mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface, absorbing fertilizer through the stomata on the leaf surface, and the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should use special fertilizer, because ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. Beida Huhuashen series and Japan-produced Hua Yifan, etc., can all be used as foliar fertilizer.