How to Tell Peonies and Herbaceous Peonies Apart? Remember These Four Looks

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

It is said that neither tree peonies nor herbaceous peonies are flowers of the mortal world. In a certain year, when a plague struck the human realm, a jade maiden or the flower goddess stole the Queen Mother of the West's elixir and scattered it over the earth to save the people. As a result, some turned into the woody tree peony, and others into the herbaceous peony. The tree peony and the herbaceous peony are sister flowers similar in appearance, and through the ages they have been jointly called “the two peerless flowers.” They both belong to the buttercup family, Ranunculaceae, and the genus Paeonia. Someone once likened them this way: “The tree peony is the king of flowers, the herbaceous peony is the prime minister of flowers.” They are often planted together; the flower king and the flower prime minister bloom one after another, greatly extending the viewing period. Because the tree peony and the herbaceous peony have similar flower forms and the same distribution range, many people cannot tell them apart.

In fact, on closer observation, the differences between tree peonies and herbaceous peonies are still quite great. To distinguish them, you need to make four observations.

First look: look at the stems. As the story above says, the tree peony is a woody plant, usually able to grow to 2 m tall, and after the leaves fall, the aboveground part does not die; the herbaceous peony is a herbaceous plant (with perennial tuberous roots) no taller than 1 m, and after the leaves fall, the aboveground part dies. Precisely for this reason, the tree peony is also called “woody peony,” and the herbaceous peony is also named “boneless flower.”

Second look: look at the leaves. The tree peony's leaf blades are relatively wide, with the upper surface green tinged with yellow, hairless, and the lower surface covered with a white bloom; the herbaceous peony's leaf blades are narrow, with both surfaces dark green and the leaves relatively dense. If you touch them with your hand, you will find that the herbaceous peony's leaf blades are relatively smooth.

Third look: look at flower form and flower color. The tree peony's flowers all grow singly at the tips of flowering branches, with a flower diameter generally around 20 cm, and the flower form is large; the herbaceous peony's flowers are single or several, both terminal and axillary, with a flower diameter around 15 cm, and the flower form is also somewhat smaller than the tree peony's. Moreover, compared with the herbaceous peony, the tree peony has richer flower colors.

Fourth look: look at the flowering period. The tree peony blooms earlier than the herbaceous peony. The tree peony generally blooms in mid-to-late April, while the herbaceous peony blooms in early-to-mid May. The difference in their flowering periods is about 15 days, hence the saying, “Watch the tree peony three days after Grain Rain, watch the herbaceous peony three days after the Start of Summer.”

What Is the Difference Between the Herbaceous Peony and the Tree Peony?

1. Leaves. The tree peony's leaf blades are relatively wide, while the herbaceous peony's leaf blades are relatively narrow; the tree peony's leaves are green on the upper side and pale yellow on the underside, while the herbaceous peony's leaves are dark green; the lower surface of the tree peony's leaves has a white bloom, while the herbaceous peony's leaves are dense, bright in color, and have a waxy luster. The tree peony's leaves are mostly bipinnately compound with three leaflets per division.

2. Flowers. The tree peony's flowers grow at the tips of the branches, mostly single, with a relatively long flower diameter of 20 cm, while the herbaceous peony's flowers are mostly several clustered together, with a flower diameter mostly around 15 cm; the tree peony has many flower forms, including single form, lotus form, chrysanthemum form, rose form, crown form, hydrangea form, and so on, while the herbaceous peony does not have so many flower forms; the tree peony's flower colors are richer than the herbaceous peony's, and many years of artificial cultivation have made the tree peony's varieties even more abundant.

3. Flowering period. The tree peony's flowering period is earlier than the herbaceous peony's. The tree peony generally blooms in mid-to-late April, while the herbaceous peony blooms in early-to-mid May. Their flowering periods differ by about half a month. It can basically be said: spring tree peony, summer herbaceous peony.

What to Do If the Herbaceous Peony Does Not Bloom

To make a potted herbaceous peony form buds and bloom, you need to do the following:

1. If the plant you bought is a new seedling, what you need to do is wait patiently; after 2~3 years, once the root system is lush, it will bloom.

2. Strengthen care: place the plant in a sunny and ventilated spot, and keep the potting soil fertile and loose, avoiding waterlogging.

3. Pay attention to timely nutrient supplementation, not only before and after flowering. For example, during the winter dormant period, fertilize once, choosing a fertilizer combining nitrogen and phosphorus or using soaked fertilizer water made from soybean cake crumbs. In early spring when it grows leaves, fertilize another 1~2 times, so as to ensure the plant has enough nutrients to form buds and bloom.

What to Do After the Herbaceous Peony Flowers Fade

1. Strengthen water and fertilizer care. The herbaceous peony itself has relatively poor drought resistance. After flowering, it enters its peak growing season, needing more water, so watering should be strengthened. The herbaceous peony greatly enjoys fertilizer; sufficient fertilizer can ensure vigorous plant growth and also enhance disease resistance. Because the herbaceous peony has already consumed a large amount of nutrients while flowering, it should be fertilized promptly after flowering. You can choose fully decomposed animal manure with good fertilizer efficiency, or sesame paste residue. When fertilizing, you can use the hole application method or spray fertilizer water; after fertilizing, be sure to water thoroughly once.

2. Pest and disease control. After the herbaceous peony flowers, it soon enters summer, and the hot, humid environment is a season of high incidence of pests and diseases. This period is sometimes also the peak growing season for the herbaceous peony, so timely pest and disease control is the only way to ensure healthy growth. At this time, pest and disease control should focus on prevention, spraying a fungicide once every 10 days; if pests or diseases occur, the dosage can be increased or the corresponding pesticide changed.

How to Prune the Herbaceous Peony

1. The herbaceous peony is a herbaceous plant whose branches grow quickly. Usually about half a month after sprouting each spring, a proper pruning should be carried out. This pruning is necessary; if it is not done, the herbaceous peony may fail to bloom or produce very small flowers. Carry out one pruning at the bud stage. From mid-March to early May, removing buds and some spent flowers of flowering herbaceous peonies can reduce nutrient consumption. This not only ensures the remaining flowers are bright and lush, but also accumulates nutrients for the plant. In late autumn, carry out a third pruning, cutting off weak branches, diseased branches, dead branches, and withered leaves, promptly cleaning the garden and burning the debris in a centralized manner to reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

2. Pruning method: When pruning the herbaceous peony, first remove all weak branches, keeping only thick, strong branches. Removing the weak and keeping the strong can ensure the grown herbaceous peony has a very beautiful plant shape. On each branch, keep only one relatively robust bud, or keep two larger buds. There is another point: generally keep only 5~7 leaves on a branch, and remove all the extra leaves.

The difference between the herbaceous peony and the tree peony is very simple; you can compare them in terms of leaves, flowers, and flowering period. Many people find that their herbaceous peony does not bloom when they grow it; in fact, there is no need to worry. With proper care, it will definitely bloom, it is just that its blooming time takes a bit longer!

Herbaceous Peony Paeonia lactiflora Herbaceous Peony Guide: How to Grow the Herbaceous Peony / How to Propagate the Herbaceous Peony

Herbaceous Peony Profile
Herbaceous Peony Paeonia lactiflora
How to Grow the Herbaceous Peony and Points to Note: An Introduction to the Herbaceous Peony
The herbaceous peony, also known by the aliases Jiangli and Licao, is a famous herbaceous flower of the family Paeoniaceae and genus Paeonia. Its cultivation history in China exceeds 4900 years, making it one of the earliest flowers cultivated in China. The herbaceous peony can be divided into many varieties, such as the herbaceous peony, the beautiful peony, and the many-flowered peony. Its petals are obovate, and its floral disc is shallowly cup-shaped. Its root, made into traditional Chinese medicine, has antispasmodic and analgesic medicinal value. It ranks first among herbaceous flowers, is praised by people as the “flower fairy” and “flower prime minister,” and is listed as one of the “six famous flowers.” It is also called the “May flower god.” Because it has been regarded as the flower of love since ancient times, it is now honored as the representative flower of Qixi Festival. In addition, the herbaceous peony is an important flower in Dream of the Red Chamber; the scene of Shi Xiangyun drunkenly sleeping on a herbaceous peony cushion is one of the most beautiful scenes in Dream of the Red Chamber.
The origin of the name herbaceous peony (sháo yào), according to the Materia Medica: “The herbaceous peony is like graceful charm, a beautiful appearance. This plant's flowers are graceful and charming, hence the name.” The herbaceous peony has many aliases. In China's dazzling hundred-flower garden, the ancients elevated the herbaceous peony to “flower prime minister” (prime minister among flowers), and because the herbaceous peony is herbaceous, it is also called the herbaceous peony (Cui Bao, Ancient and Modern Notes). Its flowers are large and brightly colored, charming and graceful, so it is named “delicate countenance” and “lingering countenance” (Supplementary Records of Famous Physicians). In ancient times, when people parted, they gave herbaceous peony flowers to express the feeling of reluctance to part, so it was also named “Jiangli” and “Licao” (Ancient and Modern Notes). Tang and Song literati called the herbaceous peony “the last cup of spring”; the last cup is the final cup, and the herbaceous peony blooms in late spring, meaning the last cup of fine wine of spring. The herbaceous peony is a herbaceous flower, without a hard woody stem, like a frail young woman swaying in the wind, delicate and boneless, hence the name “boneless flower” (Zheng Qian's Hu Materia Medica). Because its flowers are fragrant, it has the names “Luanyi” (also called “black ledder”), “Liuyi” (Guangya Commentary), and “Xinyi” (Wang Yi's commentary on Chu Ci, Nine Songs). In addition, ancient names include “Jiecang,” “Baizhu,” “Lishi,” and “Ting” (Supplementary Records of Famous Physicians). Abroad, the herbaceous peony is also highly favored, with the laudatory name “queen of flowers.” Meaning: The herbaceous peony has been China's flower of love since ancient times, and is now also praised as the representative flower of Qixi Festival. The rose of the West is thorny, while China's love flower, the herbaceous peony, is not only beautiful but can also treat illness; it reflects the Chinese nation's virtue and character, like jade and like the herbaceous peony: diligent, practical, as light as the fragrance of the herbaceous peony, and as gentle and beautiful as jade. Pink herbaceous peonies are like rosy clouds at the horizon, and also like a shy maiden in love; romance and reserve are the herbaceous peony blushing the face of spring. The custom of the Shangsi Festival and the love song “give her a peony” have been passed down from the singing of the Book of Songs all the way to the Han, Tang, Ming, and Qing dynasties. In ancient China, the herbaceous peony was always the melody of love, a romantic mountain song.
It is “charmingly moving” and “hard to part.” In ancient times, when men and women interacted, they gave herbaceous peonies to each other to express a pledge of love or the feeling of reluctance to part; the herbaceous peony is also called “Jiangli grass.”

Morphological Characteristics of the Herbaceous Peony: Root
The root consists of 3 parts: root crown, tuberous root, and fibrous root. The root crown head (different from “rootstock”; the root crown is a root, while the rootstock is a stem) is the uppermost part of the root, darker in color, and bears buds; the tuberous roots grow from below the root crown, are fleshy, thick and strong, spindle-shaped or long-columnar, 0.6~3.5 cm thick, with an exterior of light yellowish brown or grayish purple and a white interior, rich in nutrients. Tuberous roots generally do not directly produce buds, but after breaking they can sprout smaller new buds; therefore, in autumn, broken roots of more than 5 cm can also be collected for propagation; the fibrous roots mainly grow from the tuberous roots and are the main organs for absorbing water and nutrients, and can gradually evolve into tuberous roots. According to differences in external shape, the roots of the herbaceous peony can generally be divided into three types: thick-root type, sloping-root type, and even-root type. In the thick-root type, the roots are relatively sparse, thick, large, and straight-extending; in the sloping-root type, the roots extend in all directions, with uneven thickness; in the even-root type, the root strips have suitable spacing and uniform thickness. The root can be used as medicine.
Buds
They grow in clusters on the root crown, are fleshy, and overwinter underground in winter. In early spring, as the temperature rises, they sprout and emerge from the soil. When first formed, they are water-red to light purplish red, and some are yellow. After emerging from the ground, the color deepens, generally becoming dark purplish red, with scales outside for protection. The buds of the herbaceous peony are mixed buds, developing both into reproductive organs - flowers - and into vegetative organs - stems and leaves. Before sprouting, the buds are 2.5~4 cm long. After the buds emerge from the ground, their color and form also vary by variety; the color ranges from dark purplish red to yellowish brown, and the bud shapes can be divided into 3 types: short-round type, bamboo-shoot type, and brush-tip type. In the short-round type, the bud body is relatively short, with a bluntly rounded tip; in the bamboo-shoot type, the bud body is relatively long, with an acutely pointed tip, shaped like a bamboo shoot; in the brush-tip type, the bud body is relatively long, with a gradually pointed tip, shaped like the tip of a writing brush. The sprouting of the herbaceous peony is one of the most spectacular sights, because it embodies the germination and vitality of life, and therefore has high ornamental value.
Stem
It grows in clusters from the root, about 50~110 cm tall, herbaceous; the base of the stem is cylindrical, and the upper part is mostly angular, some twisted, some straight-extending, with the sun-facing parts mostly showing a purplish red blush.
Leaves
The lower leaves are bipinnately compound with three leaflets per division, that is, the end of the leaf is composed of 3 leaflets forming one cluster, with one cluster on each side as well; each cluster on the two sides is usually composed of 4 leaflets. In the middle compound leaves, the 3 leaflets at the end remain unchanged, while the number of leaflets on the two sides begins to decrease, gradually reducing from the original 4 to 3, 2, or 1, or even disappearing. When they disappear, only 3 leaflets remain at the end, and this is called a tripinnately compound leaf; the upper leaves are simple leaves. The leaves are 20~24 cm long. The leaflets include elliptical, narrowly ovate, and needle-shaped forms, with long and pointed leaf tips, entire margins with slight waves, and dense white bony fine serrations along the leaf margins. The leaf surface includes yellow-green, green, and dark green, while the leaf underside is mostly powdery green, hairy or hairless. The leaves of the herbaceous peony also have ornamental value; in “red lanterns glittering, green coiled dragons,” “green coiled dragons” is praise for the leaves, so it can also be used as a foliage plant.
Flower Buds
The shapes include round peach, flat round peach, flat round peach, pointed round peach, long round peach, pointed peach, crooked pointed peach, long pointed peach, flat peach, and several others. The outer whorl has 5 sepals, leaf-like and lanceolate, green, gradually decreasing from bottom to top; the inner sepals number 3 (sometimes increasing to 7), green or yellow-green, sometimes interspersed with yellow-white stripes or purplish red stripes, obovate, broadly ovate, circular, elliptical, or irregular.
Flowers
Generally they open singly at the top of the stem or near the top in the leaf axils, and some rare varieties even produce 2 or 3 flowers together. The original species has white flowers, 8~11 cm in diameter, with 5~13 petals, obovate, numerous stamens, yellow filaments, a shallow cup-shaped floral disc wrapping the base of the carpels, with a bluntly rounded tip, and 3~5 carpels, hairless or hairy, with a beak at the tip; horticultural varieties have rich flower colors, including white, pink, red, purple, yellow, green, black, and bicolor, with flower diameters of 10~30 cm, and petals can reach up to a hundred, with some varieties even having 880 petals, and the flower forms are variable. The flowering period is May--June.
Fruit
Follicles, spindle-shaped, elliptical, bottle-shaped, and so on, smooth, or with fine down, with a small pointed tip. 2~8 follicles, free, composed of a single carpel, ovary 1-loculed, containing 5~7 seeds.
Seeds
Black or blackish brown; the seeds are large, round, oblong, or pointed-round.
Phenological Period
During the year, the periods in which the various organs of the herbaceous peony undergo corresponding changes under the constraints of climatic conditions are called phenological periods. For example, in the Beijing area, the herbaceous peony sprouts and emerges from the soil from late March to early April. The buds formed at the underground root crown in June~July of the previous year, after growth and flower bud differentiation, sprout and emerge after the temperature rises in spring. The buds are mostly beautiful purplish red, with a few varieties being delicate yellow-green, and have high ornamental value. After more than 20 days of rapid growth, the new stems can reach about 2/3 of the height of a mature plant, the lower compound leaves flatten and spread out, and the tender leaves are also purplish red or yellow-green; after the lower leaves flatten and spread, growth is again rapid, and buds appear at the stem tips in early April; after budding, as the stems and leaves fill out and the buds develop, the flowers begin to open in early-to-mid May; the flowering period ends in early June. A single flower remains open for 5~7 days; single-petaled varieties remain open for a shorter time, and double-petaled varieties for longer. The population flowering period (from the flowering of early-flowering varieties to the fading of late-flowering varieties) is about 25 days; after the flowers fade, mixed buds differentiate and develop again at the underground root crown; the seeds mature in August, and the aboveground part dies from late October to early November. The mixed buds borne on the root crown overwinter in the soil and sprout again the following spring. This yearly periodic change process mainly follows the following rules: first, sequential order; each phenological period can proceed only after the previous phenological period is completed, and at the same time it lays the foundation for the next phenological period; second, the changes in all phenological periods are produced under the comprehensive action of certain external conditions, among which temperature is often the leading influencing factor; third, because phenological periods change with the climate of the four seasons, phenological changes have an annual periodicity; fourth, phenological periods have repeatability under certain conditions, and so on.
Main Factors Affecting Flowering Phenology
(1) Temperature: In the same region, the timing of the herbaceous peony's flowering period is closely related to spring temperature changes. Temperature can affect the entire flowering process. With a warm spring versus a cold spring, the flowering period can differ by 4~5 days or even 10~20 days.
(2) Moisture and rainfall: Moisture and rainfall have little effect on the flowering period. Sufficient irrigation before flowering or encountering rainfall helps the herbaceous peony bloom, with larger flowers and brighter colors; but if there is relatively heavy rainfall, the flowers are damaged and fade earlier. If the soil moisture content before flowering is low, the flowers become smaller, the colors are less bright, and the flowering period is shortened.
(3) Altitude: Altitude can affect changes in temperature, light, and humidity, thereby affecting the flowering period. Under normal circumstances, as altitude increases, the flowering period is delayed. For example, the herbaceous peony flowering period in Luoyang ends on May 14, while on Baiyun Mountain in nearby Manxian, the herbaceous peonies have just begun to show color. When the herbaceous peony flowering period in Pengzhou City, Sichuan, ends, the flowers on nearby Danjing Mountain are just beginning to open. The different altitude changes of cultivation sites can be used to extend the viewing period.
(4) Light: Light often accompanies temperature and has a major impact on plant growth, development, and flowering period. Insufficient light before flowering can affect flower color, making it less vivid; strong light during the flowering period, accompanied by rising temperatures, can shorten the flowering period or scorch the flowers. Therefore, setting up a shade canopy during the flowering period will extend the herbaceous peony's flowering period.
Growth and Development Characteristics
1、Life Cycle and Annual Cycle
The herbaceous peony is a perennial herbaceous plant with persistent roots. From seed germination to death, throughout its life activities, it undergoes the life processes of growth, flowering, fruiting, aging, and death; this entire process is called the life cycle, also called the large development cycle. For seedling plants, the life cycle can be divided into 3 developmental stages. Seedlings bloom in about 4 years; before flowering is the juvenile stage. In the first year after sowing and emergence, the plant is 3~4 cm tall, grows 1~2 leaves, and the root is 8~10 cm long, with the upper part of the root relatively thick, about 0.4~0.5 cm in diameter; in the second spring, the plant height reaches 7~8 cm, and better-growing plants can reach 15~29 cm, with a plant spread of about 30 cm; in the third spring, a small number of plants already bloom, with a plant height of 15~60 cm, and only one main root is well developed; the plant spread is 30~40 cm. By the fourth year, all plants can bloom. After entering the adult stage, growth is vigorous and flowering is abundant, making it the best ornamental period. As long as the environment is suitable, the adult stage can last twenty to thirty years, then it enters the aging stage until death. Division-propagated plants directly enter the adult stage and gradually age after twenty to thirty years.
The annual cycle, also called the small development cycle, refers to the staged developmental changes that the herbaceous peony plant undergoes during the year as the climatic rhythm changes. It is mainly manifested in the alternating changes of the growth period and the dormant period. Among these, the vernalization stage of the dormant period and the light stage of the growth period are the most critical. The vernalization stage of the herbaceous peony requires a low temperature of 0°C and takes about 40 days to complete; only then can the mixed buds begin to sprout and grow. The herbaceous peony is a long-day plant; flower buds must develop and bloom under long-day conditions. After the mixed buds sprout, if the light duration is insufficient, or under short-day conditions, they usually only grow leaves and do not bloom, or bloom abnormally.
2、Growth and Development Characteristics
(1) Flower bud structure and life cycle: The buds of the herbaceous peony are mixed buds, belonging to the underground bud type. After sprouting and extending above ground, they both produce stems and grow leaves, and also develop buds and bloom. A mixed bud is a complex of multiple primordia, composed of the apical growing point, bud scales, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales, leaf primordia, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia, bract primordia, sepal primordia, petal primordia, stamen primordia, pistil primordia, and so on. This bud is called the maternal-generation bud, and then the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales and leaf primordia are the primordia of the daughter-generation buds. The axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia and their axillary bud primordia do not produce bud scales and are naked buds; while the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the scales have bud scales and form scaly buds. In spring, the scaly buds sprout, and the daughter-generation naked buds extend above ground as the internodes of the maternal-generation mixed bud elongate, forming flower branches or branches on the main stem; their daughter-generation scaly buds do not emerge above ground. After the aboveground part withers in autumn, the daughter-generation scaly bud at the uppermost end of the herbaceous peony's root crown becomes the “terminal bud.” In fact, the herbaceous peony has only one terminal bud, which is the terminal bud of the seedling after seed germination. The next year, this daughter-generation scaly bud sprouts from the soil, extends branches, spreads leaves, and blooms. Therefore, the life cycle of a naked bud is 2 years, while the life cycle of a scaly bud is 3 years.
(2) Flower bud differentiation: After the herbaceous peony flowers, the axillary buds of its underground scaly buds appear around August, and their apical growing points gradually produce bud scale primordia from outside to inside. By May of the following year, a growing point covered by 4 bud scales has formed, and the differentiation of the bud scales is completed in late June. Then, the apical growing point begins to produce leaf primordia. The leaf primordia have multiple finger-like protrusions, while the bud scale primordia have only 1~3. The differentiation of leaf primordia begins in early August and ends in early September.

Ecological Habits of the Herbaceous Peony
1.Temperature
The herbaceous peony is a typical temperate plant. It likes warmth and tolerates cold, and has a relatively broad ecological adaptation range. In northern China, it can be cultivated in the open field and has strong cold tolerance. In the Nenjiang County area of northern Heilongjiang Province, where the annual growth period is only 120 days and the extreme minimum temperature is -46.5°C, it can still grow and bloom normally and overwinter in the open field. In summer it prefers a cool climate, but it is also quite heat-tolerant; for example, in Bozhou, Anhui Province, where the extreme maximum summer temperature reaches 42.1°C, it can also safely pass the summer.
2.Light
Only with sufficient light during the growth period can the herbaceous peony grow luxuriantly and have bright flower colors; however, it can also grow and develop normally under light shade, and during the flowering period, appropriately lowering the temperature and increasing humidity can protect it from scorching by strong sunlight, thereby extending the viewing period. But if it is excessively shaded, it will cause leggy growth, weak growth, and failure to bloom or sparse blooming.
The herbaceous peony is a long-day plant. It differentiates flower buds in the short-day seasons of autumn and winter, and blooms under long days in spring. Both bud development and flowering must proceed under long-day conditions. If the light duration is too short (8~9 hours), it will cause delayed bud development, accelerated leaf growth, poor flowering, or even failure to bloom.
3.Soil
The herbaceous peony is a deep-rooted plant, so it requires deep soil layers, and it also has thick, strong fleshy roots, making it suitable for loose, well-drained sandy loam. It grows poorly in clay and sandy soil. High soil moisture content and poor drainage easily cause root rot. Neutral or slightly acidic soil is preferable; saline-alkaline land is not suitable for planting. Fertile soil gives better growth, but care should be taken that the nitrogen content is not too high, to prevent leggy growth of branches and leaves. During the growth period, appropriately increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can promote strong branch and leaf growth and beautiful flowering. The herbaceous peony avoids continuous cropping. In traditional concentrated production areas of the herbaceous peony, continuous planting in the same plot for many years is a common phenomenon and has already caused serious losses, not only with severe pests and diseases, but also with declines in yield and quality, and even large-scale death. Therefore, a scientific and reasonable crop rotation system must be implemented.
4.Water
The herbaceous peony prefers an environment with high, open terrain and relatively dry conditions, and does not need frequent irrigation. Because it has fleshy roots, it is especially intolerant of waterlogging; 6~10 hours of standing water often causes root rot. Low-lying and humid areas are not suitable as herbaceous peony production areas in China. Each flood is almost devastating to the herbaceous peony; only those in high, open places that were not submerged survived.

Cultivation Techniques for the Herbaceous Peony
Herbaceous peony cultivation includes ornamental cultivation, medicinal cultivation, soilless cultivation, forcing and retarding cultivation, cut flower cultivation, and so on, described below.
1.Land Requirements
Choose a planting site with high, dry terrain and good drainage, requiring deep, loose, fertile sandy loam. When planting in areas with relatively heavy salinity and alkalinity, soil replacement is needed; when planting in lower-lying areas, build raised beds, and there should be sufficient clean irrigation water sources. The herbaceous peony avoids continuous cropping. In field cultivation, crop rotation is generally done once every 3~4 years; otherwise, growth weakens and pest and disease damage becomes severe. When land limitations prevent timely crop rotation, deep plowing should be carried out 1-2 months before planting. The depth is 60~100 cm. For every 666.7 sq m, 1500~2000 kg of decomposed dry manure or 200~250 kg of cake fertilizer can be applied. Remember that raw fertilizer that has not been decomposed must not be applied.
2.Suitable Planting Time
Whether for sowing seedlings or division seedlings, planting in Heze is from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox), and in Yangzhou from late September (Autumn Equinox) to early November (Start of Winter). It is generally combined with division.
3.Planting Specifications
For ornamental garden cultivation, the plant and row spacing can be 1 m x 1 m, and the planting points can be arranged in a “pin-shaped” pattern. This kind of planting can use the land evenly and reasonably and is conducive to uniform plant growth, but field operations are sometimes inconvenient. For the convenience of field management and observation records, a “square-shaped” arrangement of horizontal and vertical rows is often used. For the specifications of the planting holes, the depth is about 35 cm and the upper opening diameter is 18 cm. When digging the hole, it should be narrow at the top and wide at the bottom. In ornamental cultivation and propagation, thick roots are not removed; in medicinal cultivation, root-removed forced-root seedlings are used (the method used in Dongyang, Zhejiang), with holes about 25 cm. If root-removed peony crowns are used directly for planting, the depth can be even shallower.
4.Planting Method
Apply decomposed dry manure or cake fertilizer at the bottom of the hole and mix it evenly with the subsoil. Before planting, treat the herbaceous peony seedlings with a mixture of 700-fold thiophanate-methyl solution plus 1000-fold isofenphos-methyl solution to prevent pest and disease damage. Hold the herbaceous peony seedling by hand and place the roots spread out in the hole. When filling the soil to half the hole, shake and lift the seedling so that the root system combines tightly with the soil. The height to which the seedling is lifted should be based on the buds being level with the ground surface; after watering, the planting hole sinks, which is exactly the suitable planting depth. If planted too deep, the buds are not easy to sprout from the soil, and even if they emerge, growth and development are not vigorous; if planted too shallow, the root crown is exposed above the ground and is exposed to the sun in summer, which can easily lead to death. Finally, fill the soil until the hole is full, tamp it firm, and pile about 10 cm of soil on top to prevent cold and preserve moisture, and also to serve as a marker and protection. Depending on the soil moisture condition, if the soil is moist, it may not be watered after planting; generally it should be irrigated immediately after planting.
5.Field Management
(1) Removing soil and leveling the bed: The soil mound piled up at planting in the previous autumn must be promptly removed and leveled before the herbaceous peony's tender buds emerge, to level the bed surface and facilitate watering and field management. If the operation is late, removing the soil will damage the tender buds; if the soil is not removed, the base of the tender buds will be weakened, affecting growth.
(2) Cultivation and weeding: Throughout the growing season, cultivation and weeding should be done frequently. Deep cultivation should be done before the leaf canopy completely covers the ground and around the flowering period; shallow cultivation should be done after flowering. Under normal circumstances, cultivation and weeding should be done about 10 times per year.
(3) Fertilization: The herbaceous peony likes fertilizer, and there is rarely harm from too much fertilizer. Especially when the buds show color and when buds are forming, the demand for nutrients is even more urgent. In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, according to the fertilizer requirements of the herbaceous peony at different developmental stages, topdressing can be applied 3 times per year. After the seedlings emerge and spread leaves in spring, “flower fertilizer” can be applied, with the purpose of promoting vigorous plant growth and supplementing a large amount of nutrients for bud development and flowering. To supplement fertilizer promptly, quick-acting fertilizer is mostly used, and note that the phosphorus and potassium fertilizer components should be appropriately increased. After flowering, a large amount of nutrients in the plant is consumed, and flower bud differentiation and bud development must still proceed, so “bud fertilizer” can be applied. Whether sufficient nutrients are supplied promptly at this time directly relates to the quality of flowering and growth the following year; quick-acting fertilizer is still applied. Before entering winter, together with winter soil mounding, “winter fertilizer” can be applied, mainly long-acting fertilizer, mostly fully decomposed compost, barnyard manure, or decomposed cake fertilizer and compound fertilizer. There are 3 methods of topdressing application: hole application, trench application, and broadcast application. For one- or two-year-old seedlings, because the root system is not well developed, hole application between plants or trench application between rows is often used, with holes and trenches about 15 cm deep; fertilizer is applied into them and covered with soil. For plants more than three years old, broadcast application is mostly used: spread the fertilizer evenly, then combine with cultivation and weeding and deep hoeing to loosen the soil, mixing it evenly with the soil. For one- or two-year-old seedlings, every 666.7 sq m can be topdressed with 150~200 kg of cake fertilizer or sesame paste residue (the paste liquid after making sesame paste), or 1500 kg of manure. For plants more than three years old, every 666.7 sq m can use 200~250 kg of cake fertilizer or sesame paste residue, or 2000~2500 kg of manure.
(4) Watering: The herbaceous peony has a well-developed root system that goes deep into the soil and can absorb water from deep soil layers; the roots are fleshy and intolerant of waterlogging, so it does not need frequent watering like open-field herbaceous flowers. However, excessive dryness is also unfavorable for growth, making flowers small and sparse and colors less bright. It can be seen that moderate moisture is an essential ecological condition for the normal growth of the herbaceous peony. Therefore, during drought it still needs timely watering, especially before and after flowering and before winter soil mounding, sufficient irrigation must be ensured. During heavy rain, special attention must be paid to timely drainage to avoid root damage.
(5) Removing side buds: In addition to the main bud borne at the top of the stem, the herbaceous peony has 3~4 side buds in the upper leaf axils of the stem. To concentrate nutrients and make the terminal bud flower large, remove the side buds shortly after the buds appear. To prevent damage to the terminal bud, first keep 1 side bud, and after the terminal bud swells and normal development is no longer a problem, remove the reserved side bud. Therefore, flower farmers have the saying, “The herbaceous peony gets a head trim (removing side buds), the tree peony gets a foot trim (removing basal buds).” Cleverly using the difference in flowering period between main and side buds can appropriately extend the ornamental period of the herbaceous peony. In the same variety (one whose side buds can bloom normally), select some plants, remove the main bud, and keep 1 side bud to bloom, and the flowering period can be delayed by several days.
(6) Staking: The herbaceous peony's flower stalks are relatively soft. Except for a few short, sturdy plant types and varieties with fewer petals such as single form, lotus form, and golden-stamen form, most varieties have flower heads drooping sideways when blooming, or even the whole plant leaning over. To maintain a good ornamental effect, after the buds show color, set up supports so that the flower stalks extend straight, the flower heads stand upright, and the flower posture is graceful. Two support forms are commonly used: first, the single-stake type, mostly used for varieties with especially large flowers and relatively soft stems. When tying, insert a thin bamboo into the soil behind the flower stem, then use plastic rope or hemp rope in a “8” shape to tie the upper part of the flower stem at 6~8 cm from the flower head to the support. Do not tie it tightly at the top of the flower stem, to avoid making the flower head rigid and losing beauty. Second, the bamboo-ring type, used for general varieties, enclosing the loose plant clump with a bamboo ring. At this time, the enclosed flower stems support each other and stand upright. The size of the bamboo ring can be adjusted according to the size of the plant clump. Generally, two layers of bamboo rings are used, smaller at the lower layer and larger at the upper layer. Each bamboo ring is fixed with 3 or 4 small bamboo poles inserted into the soil and tied. The above two forms can be used in combination according to the situation.
(7) Setting up shade and rain shelters: The herbaceous peony's flowering period coincides with the hot, rainy season. During the flowering period, shade and rain shelters can be set up to block strong light, lower humidity, and protect against rain invasion, so as to improve the ornamental effect and extend the viewing period. The shelter height is 2.5 m, covered with shade netting and plastic film. Setting up the shelter can extend the flowering period by 8~10 days.
(8) Cutting off spent flowers: After flowering, except for seed-bearing plants, promptly cut off spent flowers to avoid wasting nutrients.
(9) Cutting off the aboveground part, watering with frozen water, and mounding soil for overwintering: After late October, the aboveground stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and dry. At this time, cut off the withered leaves, sweep up the withered leaves, and bury them deeply in a centralized manner to avoid the spread and damage of pests and diseases again. Then, before the soil freezes in winter, water thoroughly, fertilize, and pile soil to preserve moisture, protect against cold, and overwinter.
Medicinal Cultivation
The herbaceous peony is often used for medicinal cultivation; its root is a traditional Chinese medicinal material. The root bark is scraped off, and it is called “white peony”; some wild Paeonia section plants, such as P. vitchii and P. obovata, generally do not have the root bark scraped off when used medicinally, and are called “red peony.” Both are used as medicine but have different medicinal effects. Medicinal cultivation is similar to ornamental cultivation, but also has its differences. The planting spacing is 50 cm x 40 cm or 50 cm x 35 cm, that is, 3000~3500 plants per 666.7 sq m. It can be planted in holes or trenches. The planting seedlings are division seedlings or three-year-old sowing seedlings. If division seedlings, the new plant should not carry too many buds; those with 1~3 buds and 2 roots can be used; if using those with 1 bud and 1 root, 2 plants can be planted per hole.
Carrying too many buds will cause leggy growth of aboveground branches and leaves and affect root growth. The purpose of medicinal cultivation is to grow the roots well, so that the roots develop quickly and grow plump. When the plant shows buds, remove all of them and do not let them develop and bloom, so that nutrients are concentrated in root growth. Bud removal is best done on a sunny day when there is no dew. After bud removal, spray Bordeaux mixture at the standard concentration once to reduce infection by pathogens.
After taking the peony roots from the herbaceous peony plant, remove the fibrous roots, grade them according to thickness, boil and stir them, then take out the roots and observe them; when the water traces dry completely in less than 1 minute, this is the suitable timing (one account says that when the root epidermis has no water droplets attached after taking out the roots, this is the suitable timing). Immediately take them out and soak them in cold water for about half an hour or more, then use a glass piece, small knife, and so on to scrape off the root bark, wash clean, and dry in the air. It is best not to expose them to the scorching sun, to avoid the outer skin turning reddish brown. They should be dried for about half a month; thick roots need more time, and thin roots less. During the root-drying process, dry them in the sun for a few days, gather them together and let them sweat for one or two days to make them return to moisture, then dry them again, until the root breaks open and is powdery white and makes a sound when tapped. Then they can be graded, packaged, and sold. They are usually divided into 3 grades according to root diameter: grade one, root diameter 4 cm or more; grade two, 2~4 cm; grade three, below 2 cm.
All are required to have smooth outer skin, white with a pink tinge, and uniform thickness. Generally, 1 kg of fresh roots can yield 0.5 kg of dried white peony. After 3 years of continuous cultivation, every 666.7 sq m yields about 900 kg of fresh roots, producing 450 kg of white peony (Heze). In Dongyang, Zhejiang, making white peony is done by first removing the root bark and then boiling, a method with local characteristics, but the medicinal effect is the same. Soilless cultivation: Soilless cultivation, also called water culture, is the technique of preparing a nutrient solution based on the nutrient elements essential for plant growth and development and using it to cultivate plants.
For the export of potted flowers, soilless cultivation must be used in the international flower market to prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Because it saves water and fertilizer, is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, produces good product quality, and saves labor in management, its application is increasingly widespread.
1. Variety selection: Most herbaceous peony varieties perform well under nutrient solution cultivation, all better than ordinary soil cultivation.
Varieties suitable for soilless cultivation include: “Purple Butterfly Offering Gold,” “Oolong Holding a Sheng,” “Cinnabar Plate,” “Yang Guifei Emerging from the Bath,” and “Inkstone Pool Rippling Waves,” and so on.
2. Substrate preparation: The herbaceous peony has a fleshy root system, and its requirements for the substrate are good air permeability, fertilizer retention, and water retention. Vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, and tree bark can be used as substrates; using a mixed substrate gives better results. The mixing ratios include vermiculite, perlite, and tree bark at 1:1:1; vermiculite, perlite, and ceramsite at 1:1:1; or vermiculite and perlite at 1:1, and so on. In southern China, some local substrates can be added, such as carbonized rice husks.
3. Cultivation forms: There are two forms, pot cultivation and trough cultivation. For pot cultivation, choose flower pots of corresponding diameter according to the size of the herbaceous peony plant. Clay pots can be used; they have good air permeability and are good for plant growth, but are heavy and inconvenient to manage and use; plastic pots are commonly used, with a beautiful appearance, light weight, and convenient use and management, but poor air permeability. When planting, lay a layer of ceramsite at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage, then plant the herbaceous peony seedling, fill in the mixed substrate, and add a layer of ceramsite on the surface to prevent the substrate from splashing out when watering. For trough cultivation, cement or bricks can be used to build a rectangular cultivation trough. The long axis of the trough surface should have a certain drainage slope. The width is about 80~120 cm, the length is 200~300 cm, and the depth is 42 cm. Line the trough with plastic film, fill in 40 cm of cultivation substrate, and plant seedlings at a spacing of 40 cm x 40 cm, planting 2~3 rows. The planting time is the same as field planting.
4. Nutrient solution preparation: Wang Yueying and others at Beijing Forestry University, through analysis of the nutritional status of tree peony cultivation soil and measurement of the nutrient content of tree peonies at different growth stages, prepared nutrient solution formulas suitable for 3 different growth stages: first, used from summer to before winter, with the function of promoting buds and protecting roots; second, used before flowering, with relatively high phosphorus, promoting beautiful and large flowers; third, used after flowering, playing a comprehensive fertilizing role. This has high reference value for preparing nutrient solutions for herbaceous peony soilless cultivation. The mineral element content of the nutrient solution should be between 0.1% and 0.4%.
5.Irrigation System：
(1) Gravity irrigation facilities: Commonly used for general production cultivation, relatively simple to set up, low investment, convenient management, and good use results. The cultivation trough width is 200 cm, and 4 drip irrigation tapes can be installed. The size of the nutrient solution storage tank depends on the area of the cultivation trough; generally, the storage tank being 150~200 cm higher than the trough surface is sufficient. By means of the gravity generated by the liquid's height difference, the nutrient solution is delivered to the plant roots through the drip irrigation pipe.
(2) Power irrigation facilities: Mostly used for large-area soilless cultivation. The delivery of the nutrient solution in the above facilities is changed from gravity delivery to power delivery. An electric pump is added as the delivery power.
(3) Micro-tube sprinkler irrigation facilities: Lay plastic pipes with many micropores on the bed surface, and spray the nutrient solution onto the cultivation bed.
(4) Seepage pipe irrigation facilities: Bury specially made seepage pipes in 2~10 cm of substrate, so that the nutrient solution continuously seeps outward. This not only saves water but also irrigates evenly, and operation is also very convenient. Forcing and retarding cultivation: The cultivation measure of using artificial measures to promote earlier sprouting of herbaceous peony flower buds so that they bloom earlier than the natural flowering period is called forcing cultivation. Conversely, the cultivation method of using artificial measures to delay bud sprouting so that the flowering period opens later than the natural flowering period is called retarding cultivation. The two are often also called flower period acceleration and delay. On the basis of the natural open-field flowering period, rationally using forcing and retarding cultivation methods to regulate the flowering period can make the herbaceous peony bloom year-round. The initial stage of flower bud differentiation in the herbaceous peony is later than in the tree peony; its early-flowering varieties begin flower bud differentiation at the end of August, while late-flowering varieties delay until mid-to-late September. Most varieties form petal primordia from mid-November and stop developing, overwintering in this state. They sprout and grow in the following spring, and the flower buds continue to develop until flowering.
To achieve year-round supply of herbaceous peony cut flowers and potted flowers, a method combining forcing and retarding cultivation is often used to regulate the flowering period. Selecting suitable varieties, choosing robust seedlings with fully developed flower buds and pure variety characteristics, and adopting scientific treatment measures and careful cultivation management are the guarantees for success in forcing and retarding cultivation.
1、Forcing Cultivation
(1) Variety selection: To cultivate the herbaceous peony, first select varieties suitable for forcing cultivation. Generally, early-flowering varieties are mostly chosen, which can shorten the time needed for forcing into bloom, such as “Qiaoling,” “Mozi Lou,” “Yinhe,” “Fenrong Lian,” “Dafugui,” “Fengyu Luo Jinchi,” and “Meiju,” and so on.
(2) Cold storage treatment: To make the herbaceous peony bloom before its natural flowering period, choose robust three- or four-year-old plants and carry out cold storage treatment. In the cold storage room, use the soil-burial cold storage method, with the buds slightly exposed. During cold storage, check the soil moisture once every half month. If sandy loam is used, it is suitable when a handful just forms a clump. Too dry is unfavorable for forcing flowers, and too wet easily causes mold and root rot. The cold storage room humidity should be kept at 3°C. Different varieties have certain differences in treatment humidity and treatment time. For example, if plants are cold-stored in early September and then planted, under 15°C conditions they will bloom in 60~70 days, that is, they can be marketed in December; if flowering is needed in January~February of the following year, then cold storage in October~November is sufficient.
(3) Planting in nutrient soil: Plants that have undergone cold storage treatment need to be planted in nutrient soil, with regular spraying or irrigation of nutrient solution, supplemented by hormone management, and special attention should be paid to fertilizer spraying in the later period. The nutrient soil can be prepared from decomposed leaf mold, garden soil, and sandy soil at a ratio of 2:3:1, with an appropriate amount of cake fertilizer and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer added; nitrogen fertilizer is topdressed after potting. After the plants are taken out of the cold storage, first place them in a cool place to acclimatize to room temperature. When potting, cover with soil 1 cm above the buds; after watering, the buds are slightly exposed.
(4) Regulation of temperature and humidity: After the flower-forcing plants enter the humidity chamber, gradually increase the temperature. The optimal growth temperature for peonies is 20-25°C; temperatures above 30°C are detrimental to growth. The following temperature control methods can be used: early stage 15-20°C for about 10 days; middle stage 15-25°C for about 15 days; late stage 20-25°C for about 20-25 days. High temperatures should not exceed 28°C, low temperatures should not fall below 12°C, and drastic temperature fluctuations should be avoided. Relative air humidity should be maintained at 70%-80%, which can be regulated through watering, misting, ventilation, etc.
(5) Supplementary lighting: Peonies prefer warmth and light. During winter and spring forcing cultivation, which coincides with the short-day season, supplementary lighting is particularly important. Light duration should be increased to 13-15 hours per day to allow flower buds to fully develop, resulting in beautiful, large blooms.
(6) Application of hormones: Gibberellin (GA3) is generally used. When watering after potting, 2000 mg/L GA3 can be applied to further break bud dormancy. When flower buds reach 0.4 cm and 0.8 cm in diameter, apply 600 mg/L GA3 by smearing the buds twice; when buds reach 1.2 cm in diameter, apply 1000 mg/L GA3 once more.
(7) Other management: When sprouts grow to 5-10 cm, remove buds without flower buds to avoid wasting nutrients. Afterwards, remove lateral flower buds, leaving 6-8 flowers per plant. When buds are about to open, reduce watering in preparation for sale or rental display. After blooming, do not water the flowers; place indoors at 15-20°C, and the flowering period can last 20-30 days. After flowers fade, return to the ventilation room, and replant in the open field when temperatures are suitable. If used as cut flowers, after harvesting conventionally, continue careful management to nurture roots and promote buds for future use. 2. Retarding cultivation: Retarding cultivation mostly uses late-flowering varieties. The following varieties can be considered: "Yang Fei Chu Yu", "Ling Long Yu", "Bing Qing", "Zhao Yuan Fen", "Yan Chi Yang Bo", "Hong Yan Fei Xiang", "Hua Hong Chong Lou", "Yin Zhen Xiu Hong Pao", etc.
To make peonies bloom later than their natural flowering period, two measures can be adopted:
(1) Cold storage during dormancy: In early spring, dig up plants that have not yet sprouted, store them in a 0°C cold storage facility, keeping the plants moist. According to the time flowers are needed, remove from storage 30-45 days in advance depending on the season, carry out normal cultivation, and they will bloom on schedule.
(2) Cold storage during growth period: This can be done when flower buds are about to open. The storage temperature should be higher, at 3-5°C. Remove from storage 2-3 days before the flowers are needed and cultivate conventionally. The latter method allows only short-term cold storage, and can be used to extend the normal viewing period; long-term cold storage will cause spindly growth and reduce ornamental value. With the former method, if removed from storage and planted from April to August, they bloom in 30-35 days; if planted in March or September, they bloom in about 45 days. When summer temperatures are too high, shade treatment can be applied, supplemented by misting to cool down, to prevent high temperatures from causing bud shriveling and leaf scorching. Cut flower cultivation: Currently, in the total sales of the world flower market, cut flowers account for about 60% of sales. Peony cut flowers, because of their large size, vivid colors, long stems, good water retention, and easy storage and transport, have become a highly popular commodity in the world flower market. A certain quantity of peony cut flowers is exported every year, and the development prospects are very promising.
The following measures should be taken for cut flower cultivation:
1. Select varieties suitable for cut flower use
The varieties currently available in China were all bred for garden cultivation purposes, and none were specifically bred for cut flower production. However, from the existing varieties, some suitable for cut flower use can still be selected. Varieties suitable for cut flower production should meet the following conditions:
(1) High flower formation rate, floriferous type, stiff and sturdy peduncles and petioles, long branches, relatively small leaves.
(2) Regular flower shape, vivid flower color, fragrant scent, round and neat flower buds, apex not prone to splitting.
(3) Petals firm in texture, distinctly layered, medium flower diameter, flowers facing upward, few sugary secretions on buds.
(4) Good water retention as cut flowers, long vase life.
(5) Plants grow robustly, with strong growth vigor, strong tillering ability, strong stress resistance, and few pests and diseases. Tolerant of storage and transport. When selecting cut flower varieties, attention should be paid to the combination of flower colors and flowering periods to ensure year-round or multi-season supply to the market.
2、Field management
3、Post-harvest management
(1) Timely cutting: When flower buds show color, retain the lower 2-3 compound leaves and cut the flowering branch. The best time for cutting is from early morning to 10 AM; if the cutting task is large, it can also be done in the evening. After cutting, immediately place the branches in a bucket of clean water to prevent water loss.
(2) Grading and packaging: In a low-temperature room, remove leaves and grade the flowering branches. Remove the upper 2 compound leaves and the single leaf near the flower bud; remove the remaining compound leaves from the base of the petiole. Wash off the sugary liquid secreted on the buds with clean water. Grade into five levels according to branch length: 50 cm, 55 cm, 60 cm, 65 cm, and 70 cm. Wrap each flower bud first with soft paper, then cover with a corrugated paper tube. According to variety and branch length, tie 10 branches into 1 bunch, then trim the base evenly according to length requirements. Soak the base in 4 mmol/L STS (silver thiosulfate) solution for 10 minutes as pretreatment; then dip quickly in fungicide solution. After air-drying until no water droplets remain on the leaf surface, pack the bunched peony cut flowers into boxes for shipping.
(3) Storage and freshness preservation: According to research on post-harvest physiology and freshness preservation techniques of cut flowers, to extend cut flower longevity, three main problems must be solved: supplying necessary nutrients, preventing vascular blockage, and inhibiting ethylene synthesis. Peony cut flowers cut at the bud stage, treated with STS for 24 hours, then dry-stored in a 0-2°C cold storage for 3 months, after removal and treatment with preservative solution, still have a vase life and ornamental value similar to fresh cut flowers.
Key points for peony cultivation
Mix thoroughly in the ratio of 30 jin of fertilizer plus 2-3 jin of superphosphate per 100 jin of sandy loam soil, then spray with water and compost for 1-2 months. For courtyard planting, pits must also be dug in advance in winter.
"Divide peonies at the Spring Equinox, and they will never bloom" has been proven by many years of practice. The best time for planting and division propagation of peonies is from late September to early October. During this period, do not do it earlier, and even more so do not delay it. Peonies are deep-rooted flowers, so deep pots should be chosen for planting. For home gardening, generally choose deep pots with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 40 cm-50 cm. Planting 2-3 plants per pot is ideal. Attention should be paid to cultivation techniques: first spread 3 cm-5 cm of coal cinders as a drainage layer, then fill with 15 cm-20 cm of prepared potting soil, then place the seedlings upright and spread out in the pot, straighten the root system, then fill with potting soil, pressing lightly while filling to fully integrate the roots with the soil. The filling height should preferably exceed the top of the root buds by 4 cm-5 cm. Water thoroughly to settle the roots, and place in a ventilated, sunny location for care.
When root buds emerge in early spring, combine with watering and lightly apply a dilute liquid fertilizer mainly composed of nitrogen to accelerate vegetative growth. By mid-April, peonies enter the bud stage, transitioning from primarily vegetative growth to primarily reproductive growth. From bud appearance to flowering takes about one month. During this period, apply 1-2 times of compound fertilizer (2 jin fertilizer diluted in 100 jin water), and spray 2-3 times with 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to promote large, colorful flowers. After the flowering period, promptly cut off faded flowers to reduce nutrient consumption within the plant. At the same time, apply a liquid fertilizer mainly composed of nitrogen to accelerate the growth of young root buds. In winter, peonies enter dormancy, and water demand decreases. As long as the soil retains some moisture, it is sufficient, but an appropriate amount of well-rotted cake fertilizer or manure must be buried during intertillage and loosening to supplement nutrients depleted from the soil, laying a foundation for strong seedlings the following spring.

Propagation methods of peonies
Traditional propagation methods for peonies include: division, seeding, cutting, and layering, among which division is the easiest and most widely adopted. The seeding method is only used for breeding new varieties, producing rootstock for grafting tree peonies, and medicinal production. Rapid propagation of ornamental varieties is an urgent problem to be solved, and hopes have long been placed on tissue culture. Much work has been done both domestically and abroad. Although progress has been made, there is still a considerable distance from practical application.
Division method
Division is the most commonly used propagation method for peonies. Nursery stock production in peony-producing areas basically uses this method. It has three advantages: first, it flowers earlier than the seeding method - seedlings from seed bloom in 4-5 years, while divided plants can bloom the following year; second, division is simple and easy to perform, saves labor in management, and is conducive to widespread application; third, it can maintain the excellent traits of the original variety. The disadvantage is a low propagation coefficient - a three-year-old mother plant can only be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, making it difficult to adapt to and meet the needs of modern large-scale production and the continuously rapidly growing domestic and international flower market. This has always been a major challenge troubling peony nursery stock production.
1. Division timing
Theoretically, division of peonies can be carried out from when overwintering buds are plump to before the ground freezes. However, timely division and planting while soil temperature is still high is beneficial for healing root wounds and can sprout new roots, enhancing cold and drought resistance, laying the foundation for sprouting and growth the following year. Do not divide too early, to avoid autumn sprouting, which affects growth and development the following year; nor should division be too late, when soil temperature can no longer meet the needs of peony root development, resulting in poor growth of new plants the following year. If delayed until spring for division and planting, buds sprout and emerge from the soil, but because spring temperatures gradually rise, air humidity is low, transpiration is high, and the root system is damaged after division, normal absorption of water and nutrients cannot occur, causing divided plants to grow very weakly, or even die. Hence the Chinese agricultural proverb: "Divide peonies at the Spring Equinox, and they will never bloom." The suitable period for peony division is generally earlier than that for tree peonies. The agricultural proverb of Heze, "July for peonies, August for tree peonies (referring to lunar calendar months)," means that in Heze, peonies can be divided from the end of August until late September (from End of Heat to Autumn Equinox). In Yangzhou, division is done from late September to early November. Divided plants can be divided again after three to four years of growth. If not divided for many years, the root system becomes old and decayed, plant growth weakens, and flowering is poor.
2. Division method
When dividing, carefully dig up the fleshy roots, minimizing root damage. After digging up, remove old soil, cut away old hard and decayed parts, and split by hand or with a sharp knife along natural crevices. Generally, each plant can be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, each with 3-5 or 2-3 buds; when mother plants are few and planting tasks are large, each daughter plant can also have 1-2 buds, though recovery growth will be slower. Thick roots should be retained during division. If the soil is moist, peony roots are brittle and easily broken; dry for one day before dividing. After division, air-dry slightly and dip in nutrient-containing mud slurry before planting. In garden green spaces, peonies planted for many years gradually weaken and urgently need division, but the flowering period and visitor viewing cannot be affected by propagation. The in-situ division method can be used: dig a deep hole beside the peony plant with a shovel, exposing part of the peony roots, then use a sharp spade to cut and divide the peony plant, minimizing disturbance to the original plant. Remove the cut portion and divide and plant as above. Generally, cutting off half of the original plant is appropriate. The dug hole can be filled with an appropriate amount of fertilizer mixed with soil and compacted. Alternatively, alternate-row or alternate-plant division can be used, which allows division and rejuvenation without affecting the landscape, though division must be continued for 2-3 years. However, because peonies are susceptible to continuous cropping, the alternate-row or alternate-plant method cannot be applied continuously; otherwise, pests and diseases will occur severely, growth will be poor, and even mortality will greatly increase.
When peonies are cultivated for medicinal use, peony-producing areas mostly use peony heads (root crowns with buds) for division propagation. In autumn, dig up the mother plant, cut off all thick roots for medicinal use, and use the bud-bearing peony heads as propagation material. First remove peony heads without buds and with diseased sections, cut the peony heads into blocks, each with 2-3 strong buds, with a thickness of 2 cm. If too thick, the main root will not be sturdy and will branch excessively; if too thin, nutrients will be insufficient. It is best to plant immediately after cutting. If planting cannot be done promptly, do not cut; the peony heads can be stored in sand for later use. Planting is suitable from early August to late September.
3. Post-division management
The planting depth should be about 2 cm of soil covering the buds. Too deep is not conducive to sprouting and easily causes root rot, yellowing leaves, and poor growth; too shallow is not conducive to flowering and is susceptible to frost damage, or even the root crown exposed above ground, causing death from summer sun exposure. If the divided root clump is large (with 3-5 buds), it may bloom the second year, but the flowers will be small; it is better to remove them to allow the plant to grow well. If the root clump is small (2-3 buds), growth will be poor or no flowers the second year, and generally 2-5 years of cultivation are needed.
Seeding method
The fruit of peonies is a follicle, each containing 1-7 seeds. When seeds mature, the follicle splits open, releasing the seeds. Fruit maturation periods vary by location; for example, Mudanjiang in Heilongjiang Province in early September, Heze in Shandong in late August, Luoyang in Henan in early to mid-August, and Yangzhou in Jiangsu around late August. Seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection; as sowing time is delayed, seed moisture content decreases and germination rate declines. Seeds have double dormancy characteristics of the epicotyl and hypocotyl. After sowing, autumn soil temperatures release the hypocotyl from dormancy, and the radicle develops and roots form. The better the rooting in the current year, the more vigorous the growth the following year; if sowing is too late, soil temperature cannot release hypocotyl dormancy, no roots form, and the germination rate the following spring is greatly reduced. After autumn sowing and rooting, through the long low temperatures of winter, epicotyl dormancy can be released. The following spring, as temperatures rise and humidity is suitable, the plumule emerges from the soil.
Because offspring from seeding horticultural peony varieties will show trait segregation and cannot maintain the excellent traits of the original variety, the seeding method cannot be used for propagating variety seedlings.
1. Seed collection
Harvest when the follicle fruits turn yellow. If too early, seeds are not mature; if too late, the seed coat turns black and hard, making emergence difficult. Fruit maturation varies, so harvest in batches. When the fruit skin splits and releases seeds, they can be sown immediately; never expose seeds to the sun, as this hardens the seed coat and affects emergence. If timely sowing is not possible, sand storage with moisture retention can be used, but seeds must be removed and sown before they root.
2. Sowing time
Peony seeds must be collected and sown promptly in the same year. For example, in the Heze area, sowing is done from late August to late September. If later than late September, roots cannot form that year, and the germination rate the following spring will be greatly reduced; moreover, even if seedlings emerge, because the seedling root system is underdeveloped, it is difficult to resist spring drought and prone to death. Therefore, several spring sowing trials in Heze all ended in failure.
3. Sowing method
Seed treatment: Before sowing, remove shriveled seeds and impurities from the seeds to be sown, then use water selection to remove non-viable seeds. Although peony seed coats are thinner than those of tree peonies and absorb water and germinate relatively easily, if seed treatment is done before sowing, germination will be more uniform and the germination rate will be greatly improved, often reaching over 80%. The method is to soak seeds in 50°C warm water for 24 hours, then remove and sow immediately.
Bed preparation and sowing: Apply sufficient base fertilizer to the seedling raising area, deep plow and level. If the soil is relatively moist and suitable for sowing, beds can be made directly for sowing; if soil moisture is poor, irrigate thoroughly first, then make beds and sow. Bed width is about 50 cm, with 30 cm between beds. Sow seeds in rows with 6 cm row spacing and 3 cm seed spacing; if seeds are abundant, broadcast sowing can be used with seed spacing no less than 3 cm; after sowing, cover with moist soil at a thickness of about 2 cm. Use about 50 kg of seed per 666.7 sq m; about 100 kg for broadcast sowing. After sowing, cover with plastic film and remove it after sprouts emerge the following spring. Drilling can also be used: row spacing 40 cm, seed spacing 3 cm, soil cover 5-6 cm; or hole sowing: hole spacing 20-30 cm, 4-5 seeds per hole, after sowing mound soil 10-20 cm to help prevent cold and retain moisture. Rake level before sprouting the following spring.
Other propagation methods
1. Cutting method: Select a nursery site with higher terrain and good drainage for the cutting bed. After loosening the bed soil, spread 15 cm of river sand; the river sand should be disinfected with 0.5% potassium permanganate. Vermiculite or perlite can also be used as cutting medium. Build a shade structure 1.5 m high over the bed. According to experience from Changchun and other places, cuttings taken in mid-July give the best results. Cuttings are 10-15 cm long, with two nodes. Keep one compound leaf on the upper node with a few leaflets; remove the lower compound leaf along with the petiole. After quickly dipping in 500×10 to 1000×10 naphthaleneacetic acid or indoleacetic acid solution, insert cuttings at a depth of about 5 cm, with spacing such that leaves do not overlap. After insertion, water thoroughly, then cover with a plastic tunnel. According to observations, the best rooting results occur when the medium temperature is 28-30°C and humidity is 50%. Maintaining the temperature inside the cutting tunnel at 20-25°C and humidity at 80%-90%, roots can form in 20-30 days after insertion, along with dormant buds. After rooting, reduce misting and watering, and gradually remove the plastic tunnel and shade structure. Cutting seedlings grow slowly and need to be covered with soil in the bed to overwinter; transplant to the open field the following spring.
2. Root cutting method: Use broken roots from autumn division of peonies, cut into 5-10 cm root segments, insert into deeply plowed and leveled furrows, furrow depth 10-15 cm, cover with 5-10 cm of fine soil, and water thoroughly.
3. Layering method: In spring, pass young sprouts that have just emerged through the drainage hole of a flower pot, guiding them into a pot with a diameter of 15-20 cm. Gradually add soil as they grow, keeping the potting soil moist. By summer, roots will form. Before winter, cut the stem below the pot, forming a potted peony.
4. Modern tissue culture method: Plant tissue culture, i.e., aseptic plant culture technology, is based on the theory that plant cells are totipotent. It uses isolated peony organs, tissues, or cells (such as roots, stems, leaves, etc.) under aseptic conditions and suitable artificial media, light, temperature, and other conditions to induce callus, adventitious buds, and adventitious roots, ultimately forming complete plants with the same heredity as the mother plant. This technology is also called cloning technology, achieves the goal of rapid propagation, and has wide application value.

Pest and disease control of peonies
The main peony diseases are peony gray mold, peony brown spot, and peony red spot.
1. Scarab beetles
Pest species and damage: There are several species of scarab beetles that harm peonies, such as the black velvet chafer, the apple green chafer, and the yellow-haired chafer. Their adults damage peony leaves and flowers; their larvae, white grubs, have a nearly cylindrical body curved into a "C" shape, milky white, with a yellow-brown head, 3 pairs of thoracic legs, and no abdominal legs. They feed on peony roots, and the wounds they create provide conditions for Fusarium infection, leading to root rot.
2. Scale insects
(1) Pests and damage: Scale insects, also known as mealybugs. There are several species of scale insects that harm peonies, such as the cottony cushion scale, the Japanese wax scale, the long white scale, the mulberry white scale, the peony round scale, and the arrowhead scale.
Scale insects suck the sap of peonies, weakening plant growth and causing branches and leaves to turn yellow.
(2) Control methods
① Strengthen quarantine to strictly prevent the introduction of infested nursery stock.
② Protect and utilize natural enemies.
③ Seize the peak hatching period of eggs for spraying. Newly hatched insects have not yet developed a waxy coating on their surface and are easily killed. Spray 40% omethoate 1000-1500 times dilution, or 50% malathion emulsion 800-1000 times dilution, or 50% phoxim emulsion 1000-2000 times dilution. Spray evenly, covering the entire plant. Spraying is ineffective after the waxy shell has formed.
④ Drench the root zone with carbofuran solution; the plant absorbs the chemical, and insects are killed after sucking the plant sap.
⑤ When individual branches are found to be infested by scale insects, they can be brushed off with a soft brush, or the infested branches can be cut off and burned.
3. Aphids
(1) Damage: Aphids are commonly found harming peonies. After peonies sprout in spring, aphids fly in to cause damage, sucking sap from leaves, causing damaged leaves to curl and turn yellow. After seedlings grow larger, aphids often gather on tender shoots, peduncles, and leaf undersides, causing stems and leaves to curl and shrivel, and even the entire plant to wither and die.
(2) Occurrence pattern: Under high temperature and dry conditions, aphids reproduce quickly and cause severe damage. Aphids can reproduce several generations to twenty or thirty generations per year. Aphids secrete honeydew, which can impede the physiological activities of stems and leaves of infested plants; at the same time, the honeydew is a good medium for pathogens, often triggering sooty mold, etc. Aphids can also transmit viral diseases.
(3) Control methods
① Clear overwintering weeds.
② Protect and utilize natural enemies. The main natural enemies include the multicolored Asian lady beetle, the seven-spotted lady beetle, the yellow-spotted lady beetle, the tortoise-shell lady beetle, hoverflies, and green lacewings.
③ Spray 40% dimethoate emulsion 1000-1500 times dilution, or 80% dichlorvos 1500-2000 times dilution, or 50% menazon emulsion 1000-1500 times dilution.

Variety classification of peonies
The genus Paeonia has about 35 species, distributed in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. Based on growth habits and flower disc shape, they are divided into two groups. First is the Moutan group, which are deciduous shrubs or subshrubs, with cup-shaped or disc-shaped flower discs, leathery or fleshy, completely enclosing the carpels or enclosing the base of the carpels. China has three species (excluding varieties), namely Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Paeonia lutea (yellow tree peony), and Paeonia delavayi (purple tree peony). Second is the Paeonia group, which are herbaceous perennials, with undeveloped flower discs enclosing the base of the carpels, not very conspicuous. The Paeonia group has about 30 species, mainly distributed in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. There are another two species native to the Americas, which some classify as a separate group called the American Paeonia group.
Foreign species of the Paeonia group are all important flower species, among which the four most important are: Paeonia tenuifolia, with blood-red flowers, native to Bulgaria and the Caucasus; Paeonia mlokosewitschii, with pale yellow flowers, or with light green to white, native to the region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea; Paeonia wittmanniana, yellow, native to the region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea; Paeonia peregrina, with white to deep red flowers, native to southern Europe.
China has eight species and six varieties of the Paeonia group, among which the one commonly referred to simply as peony is the main original species of modern peony variety groups. The eight peony species are: Paeonia obovata, Paeonia mairei, Paeonia lactiflora, Paeonia veitchii, Paeonia sterniana, Paeonia anomala, Paeonia ** and Paeonia anomala subsp. veitchii.
Flower type classification characteristics of peonies
1. Single flower type: The flower consists of a single bloom.
1.1 Thousand-layer subtype: Petals increase centripetally and naturally, arranged neatly, similar in shape, gradually becoming smaller from outside to inside; stamens only grow around the ovary, correspondingly decreasing as petals increase until disappearing. Flower shape is flat.
① Single-petal type: 2-3 whorls of petals, broad, with normally developed stamens and pistils, usually referring to the original species type.
② Lotus type: 4-5 whorls of petals, broad, similar in shape and size; stamens normal or individual stamens petaloid into fragmented petals, lanceolate petals, or filamentous petals scattered among the stamen cluster; pistils normal.
③ Chrysanthemum type: More than 6 whorls of petals, gradually becoming smaller from outside to inside; stamens normal, fewer in number; pistils normal, increasing in number or
decreasing.
④ Rose type: Petals extremely increased, gradually becoming smaller from outside to inside; stamens all disappeared; pistils normal, degenerated and smaller, or completely disappeared.
1.2 Tower subtype: Outer petals broad, 2-3 whorls; stamens centrifugally petaloid; pistils normal, petaloid, or degenerated. Flower shape raised or towering (except for the golden stamen type).
① Golden stamen type: Outer petals broad, 2-3 whorls; stamen anthers enlarged, filaments thickened, stamen cluster appearing bright golden yellow; pistils normal.
② Anemone type: Outer petals broad, 2-3 whorls; stamens completely petaloid into filamentous petals, needle-like petals, or lanceolate petals, slightly larger from outside to inside, standing upright within the outer petals; pistils normal or petaloid into ligulate petals, with the color of ligulate petals or petal tips often being the original color of the stigma.
③ Golden ring type: Outer petals broad, 2-3 whorls; most stamens petaloid, petaloid petals towering, but a ring of normal stamens remains between the petaloid stamens and outer petals; pistils normal or petaloid.
④ Crown type: Outer petals broad and flat, 2-3 whorls; closely inside the outer petals, a small number of filamentous petals, needle-like petals, lanceolate petals, or fragmented petals are arranged in a ring, above which are ligulate petals or lanceolate petals transformed from stamens, upright, raised, clustered within the outer petals, with a small number of stamens in the center, or degenerated into a short small state; pistils normal, petaloid, or degenerated.
⑤ Hydrangea type: Most stamens petaloid into ligulate petals, resembling secondary outer petals; when fully open, the entire flower is full, shaped like a hydrangea, with very few or degenerated central stamens; pistils smaller or degenerated.
2. Proliferate type: Refers to the phenomenon where, when the plant blooms, the growth point at the center of the flower (or inflorescence) or between flowers differentiates flower buds again and blooms. A flower (upper flower) forms again at the center of the flower (lower flower), and the upper flower overlaps with the lower flower, thereby increasing the degree of doubleness. Some varieties even consist of 3 or even 4 flowers overlapping.
2.1 Thousand-layer subtype: The basal single flower (lower flower) has the basic characteristics of the single flower type thousand-layer subtype. Thousand-layer proliferate type (primary proliferate type): Lower flower pistils normal or slightly petaloid; upper flower generally has normal stamens and pistils. The entire flower is relatively flat.
2.2 Tower subtype: Lower flower has 2-3 whorls of petals, stamens petaloid, pistils petaloid or degenerated. The entire flower is towering.
① Colorful petal proliferate type: Lower flower pistils petaloid, most stamens petaloid; upper flower stamens and pistils normal or slightly petaloid.
② Layered proliferate type: Lower flower pistil-transformed petals become indistinguishable from normal petals; stamen-transformed petals are shorter and smaller than normal petals; upper flower stamens also mostly petaloid into short petals, pistils petaloid or degenerated. The entire flower has a distinct layered structure.
③ Ball flower proliferate type: Lower flower stamen-transformed petals elongate and widen to be indistinguishable from normal petals; pistil-transformed petals also become normal petals; upper flower stamen-transformed petals are also mostly difficult to distinguish from normal petals, pistils petaloid or degenerated. The entire flower is ball-shaped.

Medicinal or dietary value of peonies
The medical information and health dietary information on Guarding Flowers Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health issues should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and treatment of any disease should follow medical advice.
Ultimate flower-guarding mission: Love yourself, start from reality, and follow medical advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field within your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
Peonies are not only famous flowers, but their roots can also be used medicinally. The roots are fresh, crisp, and juicy. When used as medicine, red peony and white peony are processed differently. According to analysis, peony roots contain paeoniflorin and benzoic acid, with uses varying by species. In traditional Chinese medicine, white peony mainly refers to the root of Paeonia lactiflora. It is an antispasmodic, analgesic, and emmenagogue medicine. It is effective for abdominal pain, gastric spasms, dizziness, gout, and diuresis in women. Generally, the roots of cultivated peony varieties are used for white peony, because their roots are thick, plump, and straight, and the processed product is of good quality. Wild peonies, because their roots are thin and small, are only sold as red peony. Red peony in traditional Chinese medicine is the root of Paeonia obovata, with effects of dissipating blood stasis, invigorating blood circulation, relieving pain, and purging liver fire. It mainly treats irregular menstruation, abdominal pain from phlegm stagnation, joint swelling and pain, chest pain, and hypochondriac pain.
In ancient formulas, there are hundreds that use white peony as the main medicinal. For example, "Cinnamon Twig Decoction" uses peony to harmonize the nutritive and defensive qi of the exterior; "Scutellaria Decoction" uses peony to harmonize the nutritive qi of the abdomen; "Prepared Licorice Decoction" uses peony to tonify the yin fluids of the blood vessels. In obstetrics and gynecology clinical practice, peony is even more widely used.
[Nature and flavor] Bitter in taste, neutral in nature, non-toxic.

Uses and ornamental value of peonies
Peony flowers are large and gorgeous, with rich varieties. In gardens, they are often planted in masses, and when in bloom they are very spectacular, making them a major flower in modern parks or flower beds. Or
planted in bands along paths and roadsides, or cultivated at woodland edges, paired with low-growing, creeping flowers. Sometimes single plants or two or three plants are planted to appreciate their special type and flower color. There are even specialized gardens composed entirely of peonies called peony gardens. Peonies are also important cut flowers, either for vases or flower baskets. If cut when buds are about to open and placed in cold storage, they can be stored for several months. Those used as cut flowers are mainly double-flowered varieties; single-flowered ones in vases shed their flowers within a few days. The ancients judged flowers: peony first, tree peony second, saying that the tree peony calls itself the king of flowers, and the peony is the minister of flowers. Because it blooms relatively late, it is also called "Dian Chun" (the one that closes spring).
Other values
Peony seeds can be pressed for oil for making soap and mixed with paint as a coating. Roots and leaves are rich in tannins, which can be extracted to make tannin extract, and can also be used as a traditional pesticide to kill soybean aphids and control wheat stem rust, etc.

Cultural background and flower stories of peonies
The main flower story is "Four Ministers Pin Flowers."
Viewing destinations
The main peony viewing destinations in China include: Zhongjiang, Sichuan (Hometown of Chinese Peonies, China Peony Valley 4A Scenic Area), Bozhou (the largest traditional Chinese medicinal materials trading market in the country), and Yangzhou. In addition: Heze (Caozhou Hundred Flower Garden), Luoyang (National Tree Peony Garden), Beijing (Jingshan Park).
Literary classics
Peony is an important flower in Dream of the Red Chamber. In the 62nd chapter, Shi Xiangyun drunk sleeping in the peony garden should be one of the most beautiful scenes in Dream of the Red Chamber.
Poetry works
1. "Feeling the Peony Flower and Sending to Monk Zhengyi"
Bai Juyi (Tang Dynasty)
Today before the steps, red peonies, how many flowers are aging, how many are new.
When blooming, one does not understand the comparison of forms; after falling, one begins to know the illusory body.
How far is it to the gate of emptiness? I want to ask the monk about the faded flowers.
"Peonies Blooming in Front of the Hall of the Late Wang Wei, the Right Prime Minister, Feeling Melancholy" by Qian Qi (Tang Dynasty)
Peonies bloom beyond the old railing, in spring garments, wiping tears, coming to look again.
When the master is away the flowers still grow, better than the green pine that keeps watch through the winter cold.
2. "Song of the Peony"
Han Yu (Tang Dynasty)
In the old man's courtyard bloom fine flowers, with no common tree to vie for spring's splendor. Green stems and red stamens, the gift of heaven's power,
This grace does not belong to the house of the yellow bell. Warm, ripe, and lovely, a fresh fragrance rises, as if smiling yet silent, schooled like a gentleman.
The frost knife prunes you, the heavenly maiden toils, why bow your head and learn from peach and plum? A spoiled, silly maid with no spirit,
Vying to pull up spring robes and join here. Wishing to tint both cheeks with a single glance of red, grinding the bronze mirror smooth before the green window.
A cup of spring wine sweet as syrup, the old man's joy is known to none. Who is the singer who lies drunk before the flowers,
The mad youth of Chu, Han Tuizhi.
3. "Playfully Written on the Peony Before the Steps"
Liu Zongyuan (Tang Dynasty)
Common blooms fade with the season, but this fair flower glories in this morning. Leaning red, drunk on heavy dew, slender and graceful, it keeps the last of spring.
Admired alone as the white day dims, the warm wind sways it again and again. At the night window its fragrance gathers, and lying in seclusion I feel it near.
I wish to send it as a gift from Zhen and Wei, to the distant people of the south.
4. "Just Finished Drafting the Edict, I Meet the Peony Newly Bloomed"
Traditional Chinese painting of the peony
Traditional Chinese painting of the peony (14 pieces) Bai Juyi (Tang Dynasty)
Having finished drafting the purple-mud edict, I rise and chant a poem on the red peony. After the document's head is sealed and sent, it is the time when the flower's mouth splits open.
Sitting facing the hooked curtain for long, walking to view it my steps are slow. Two or three clumps in full luxuriance, twelve leaves uneven.
Facing away from the sun the calyx slightly closes, before the steps the bloom tilts and turns. Hairpin-like stalks push out green stems, powdery stamens dust the yellow threads.
Swaying with boundless feeling, drooping and slanting, its strength unsupported. I look round and round and still cannot have enough, comparison in words is hard to make.
Like cinnabar in the Goulou caves, like a flame banner of the dwarfs. Crimson clouds left at the root and stem, a red headband lacking its tassels.
Moreover there is the clear wind's bearing, and still the overnight dew hangs. I suspect its scent suffuses a painted screen, like tears upon rouge.
It seems to linger on purpose for me, speechless, resenting whom? It must sorrow to fall tomorrow, as if grieving over a year's separation.
The lotus joins its calyx to the mud, the rose winds thorns around its branch. Weighing them all, none is the victor; only the eye and the heart know.
5. "The Peony"
Zhang Bi (Tang Dynasty)
Fragrance clear and powder pale, it resents the fading spring, butterfly wings and bee whiskers linger over the stamen dust. Idly leaning on the evening wind, it grows wistful,
Quietly keeping the lingering day, learning to delay. Do not make the climbing fig your green gate, better to be close neighbor to the rose.
If it should scatter and follow the evening rain, it would again grieve to death the one who parts.
6. "Qingping Yue: Peony Lyrics for Zhang Xiushi"
Liu Minzhong (Yuan Dynasty)
The tree peony flowers have fallen. In dreams the east wind is cruel.
I hear it said your house has red peonies. They make me forget all spring sorrow.
A hundred paces away through the wall their fragrance comes. Several clumps have fully opened for me.
I would stake all to lie among the colored clouds, and when drunk lie down together on the green moss.
7. "Matching the Rhyme of Xu Zida's Poem on Peonies and Tree Peonies at Prime Minister Li's Residence"
Hong Yan (Song Dynasty)
The mountain lily's fair nature crowns the year, and with lingering beauty it closes the ranks of a hundred flowers.
See how the three spring months turn like a shifting shadow, and plucking one for a smile is a whole life.
Silk and gauze do not envy its city-toppling color, bees and butterflies can hardly peer into the prime minister's house.
Ten years in the capital with dim, sick eyes, pitiful that wind and rain bring down the morning glow.
8. "Red Peony"
Wang Zhe (Yuan Dynasty)
This Wang Zhe knows clearly, and seeing the chrysanthemum's firm integrity, he takes Double Ninth Master as his name.
Just right to lean upon. Often he wants to set it into verse, and with pen never stopping it naturally comes.
The heart's incense rises, seals out the immortal scripture, and at once it runs through, reversed. At once it runs through, reversed.
Early obtaining the good cause, swiftly pushing into the profound depths. The mysterious and wondrous, let him exhaustively examine.
And again he eats the magic mushrooms. The white breath causes it, above and below full and brimming, the golden elixir forms, refined into a precious treasure.
By the season, forever dwelling in eternal life, abiding in the ten isles and three mountains.
9. "Red Peony"
Yuan Zhen (Tang Dynasty)
The peony bursts forth red silk, the Ba hedge woven into a green gate. Dense threads pucker the golden stamens, a high flame facing the hearth fire.
Cut and carved like crimson cloud fragments, spread open wrapped in red mist. Smoke-light on glassy leaves, wind bends the coral blossoms.
Receiving dew, its color sinks low, toward people it is charming and graceful. Like a flushed face weeping after drink, like a little girl sitting all dressed up.
Brilliant, brocade cannot match it; tender, the peach cannot compare. The clear dawn glow fears it will scatter, the evening sun grieves it will fall.
For whom was it planted and grown, the joy of admiring it awaited in me. To pluck it surely brings much longing, how can a secret gift ever come to pass?
10. Five Poems on a Spring Day
Qin Guan (Song Dynasty)
One evening a light thunder drops ten thousand threads, after clearing the light floats on tiles, green uneven.
The charm of the peony
The charm of the peony (8 pieces)
The feeling peony holds spring tears, the powerless rose lies on the morning branch.
11. "Ode to the Peony Flower"
The peonies crowd with budding buds, the warm wind hurries to play matchmaker.
The flower fairy wants to leave her chamber, but does not know whom she will marry.
-- Zhang Zhizhen
12. Yangzhou Man: The Famous City on the Left of the Huai
[Southern Song] Jiang Kui
On the winter solstice of the bing-shen year of Chunxi, I passed through Weiyang. The night snow had just cleared, and shepherd's purse and wheat filled the view. Entering the city, I looked all around at the desolation; the cold water was blue of itself, dusk was gradually rising, and the garrison horn moaned mournfully. My heart was stricken, moved by past and present, so I composed this tune myself. The old man of a thousand rocks thought it had the sorrow of "Shu Li."
The famous city on the left of the Huai, the fine spot at Zhuxi, I unsaddled and rested briefly at the start of my journey. Passing the spring breeze for ten li, all was green shepherd's purse and wheat. Since the barbarian horses spied on the river and left, the ruined ponds and tall trees still loathe to speak of war. Gradually dusk falls, the clear horn blows cold, all in an empty city.
Young Du's fine appreciation, if he came again today he would surely be startled. Even with his cardamom craftsmanship and his good dream of the green pavilion, he could hardly voice deep feeling. The twenty-four bridges are still there, waves surge at their heart, the cold moon is silent. I think of the red peonies by the bridge, for whom do they bloom year after year?
Red Peony
A person's life is a hundred years, and seventy is rare. Subtract another ten years of childish youth, and another ten of dim old age. Altogether fifty years, and half is divided off by the sleep demon. Within those twenty-five years, how could there be no worries at all?
Think it over carefully, best to chase pleasure early. When you meet wine and flowers, you can laugh and be proud. Let the jade mountain topple. Facing the scene, just get deeply drunk, life is like dew hanging on fragrant grass. Fortunately lately, there is wine like the River Mian, to bind a thousand autumns of song and laughter.
The allusion of the peony
The story goes that neither the tree peony nor the peony is a common flower; in a certain year, when plague struck the human world, the Jade Maiden or the flower god stole the Queen Mother of the West's immortal elixir to save the people and scattered it over the world. As a result, some became the woody tree peony, and others became the herbaceous peony, and to this day the peony still carries the character for "medicine." Laughably, the flowers, leaves, roots and stems of the tree peony and the peony really can be used as medicine; moutan bark is especially famous, and Hangzhou white peony root is even more a superior tonic for nourishing yin and enriching the blood. Therefore the peony is also called "the flower of women's medicine."
In the ancient West there was a similar legend, that the famous Greek physician Asclepius had a clever student, Paeon, who surpassed his master and even healed the wound of Hades, god of the underworld. In jealousy Asclepius killed young Paeon. Fortunately the king of the underworld, mindful of the debt, turned young Paeon into a healing flower, the peony. Westerners too have always believed the peony possesses a certain magic: wherever peonies grow, demons vanish without a trace, and it can even stand against the most poisonous flower of all, the mandrake.
The difference between the peony and the tree peony
1. The most fundamental difference: the tree peony is a woody plant that can grow to 2 m tall, while the peony is a short (perennial tuberous) herbaceous plant no taller than 1 m.
2. The tree peony blooms earlier than the peony. The tree peony generally blooms in mid-to-late April, while the peony blooms in early-to-mid May. The difference in their flowering periods is about 15 days.
3. Tree peony leaves are broad, green on the upper side with a slight yellow tinge, while peony leaves are narrow, dark green on both sides;
4. Tree peony flowers are borne at the tip of the flowering branch, mostly solitary, with a flower diameter generally around 20 cm; while peony flowers are mostly clustered at the branch tips, with a flower diameter around 15 cm.
5. The tree peony is called the king of flowers. The peony is called the minister of flowers.
6. Tree peony leaves tend to be grayish green, while peony leaves are more glossy.
7. The tree peony has richer flower colors than the peony.
Peony pictures

How to Tell Peonies and Herbaceous Peonies Apart? Remember These Four Looks

Herbaceous Peony Paeonia lactiflora Herbaceous Peony Guide: How to Grow the Herbaceous Peony / How to Propagate the Herbaceous Peony

Related Articles