Lavender Pruning Methods and Key Techniques
Lavender flowers contain the richest essential oil, and when harvesting, the flowers or flower spikes are the main part used. To make harvesting easier, in the early stages of cultivation some small flower spikes may as well be leveled off entirely with large shears; the newly grown flower spikes will then be uniform in height, which is good for harvesting all at once. Some varieties can reach 90 cm in height. This method is also used to keep the plant low and compact, encouraging more branching and flowering, and increasing the harvest.
After lavender finishes flowering, it must be pruned. The plant can be cut back to 2/3 of its original size; the plant shape will be more compact, and this benefits growth. Pruning should be done in a cool season such as spring or autumn; generally, prune in spring, as pruning in autumn will affect cold hardiness. When pruning, be careful not to cut into the woody part, so as to avoid the plant weakening and dying.
In summer, just place them in a shady spot. When the young shoots grow to about 10 cm, they must be topped, otherwise lignification will occur; after lignification, the leaves below dry up, which looks very unattractive. Pinching back and topping both mean timely pruning.
Lignification is the grass's defense against harsh environments, evolving from grass to wood; trees are more tenacious in life than grass. Because the area around the roots is not ventilated enough, or because the leaf tips are not pruned in time so nutrients cannot rise, the leaves at the base drop off and the stems become woody.
The way to prevent this is timely pruning, pruning once a week (each time you can prune half a cm at a time).
For grass that has already become woody, apart from the occasional plant with particularly well-developed roots that will send out new shoots from the base, there is generally no improvement. However, you can obtain new plants by taking cuttings of new branches, and pay attention to pruning to avoid lignification.
How to prune lavender, lavender pruning methods
Lavender flowers contain the richest essential oil, and when harvesting, the flowers or flower spikes are the main part used. To make harvesting easier, in the early stages of cultivation some small flower spikes may as well be leveled off entirely with large shears; the newly grown flower spikes will then be uniform in height, which is good for harvesting all at once. Some varieties can reach 90 cm in height. This method is also used to keep the plant low and compact, encouraging more branching and flowering, and increasing the harvest.
After lavender finishes flowering, it must be pruned. The plant can be cut back to 2/3 of its original size; the plant shape will be more compact, and this benefits growth. Pruning should be done in a cool season such as spring or autumn; generally, prune in spring, as pruning in autumn will affect cold hardiness. When pruning, be careful not to cut into the woody part, so as to avoid the plant weakening and dying.
In summer, just place them in a shady spot. When the young shoots grow to about 10 cm, they must be topped, otherwise lignification will occur; after lignification, the leaves below dry up, which looks very unattractive. Pinching back and topping both mean timely pruning.
Lignification is lavender's defense against harsh environments, evolving from grass to wood; trees are more tenacious in life than grass. Because the area around the roots is not ventilated enough, or because the leaf tips are not pruned in time so nutrients cannot rise, the leaves at the base drop off and the stems become woody.
The way to prevent this is timely pruning, pruning once a week (each time you can prune half a cm at a time).
For lavender that has already become woody, apart from the occasional plant with particularly well-developed roots that will send out new shoots from the base, there is generally no improvement. However, you can obtain new plants by taking cuttings of new branches, and pay attention to pruning to avoid lignification.
The above is a brief summary of how to prune lavender and lavender pruning methods. Like other plants, lavender needs plenty of sunlight. Lavender is fairly drought-tolerant but fears waterlogging, so avoid excessive water accumulating in the potting soil, which causes root rot. Lavender has a rich fragrance and charming flowers, making it an excellent plant to cultivate.
Lavender pruning methods
Lavender flowers contain the richest essential oil, and when harvesting, the flowers or flower spikes are the main part used. To make harvesting easier, in the early stages of cultivation some small flower spikes may as well be leveled off entirely with large shears; the newly grown flower spikes will then be uniform in height, which is good for harvesting all at once. Some varieties can reach 90 cm in height. This method is also used to keep the plant low and compact, encouraging more branching and flowering, and increasing the harvest.After lavender finishes flowering, it must be pruned. The plant can be cut back to 2/3 of its original size; the plant shape will be more compact, and this benefits growth. Pruning should be done in a cool season such as spring or autumn; generally, prune in spring, as pruning in autumn will affect cold hardiness. When pruning, be careful not to cut into the woody part, so as to avoid the plant weakening and dying.
In summer, just place them in a shady spot. When the young shoots grow to about 10 cm, they must be topped, otherwise lignification will occur; after lignification, the leaves below dry up, which looks very unattractive. Pinching back and topping both mean timely pruning.
Lignification is the grass's defense against harsh environments, evolving from grass to wood; trees are more tenacious in life than grass. Because the area around the roots is not ventilated enough, or because the leaf tips are not pruned in time so nutrients cannot rise, the leaves at the base drop off and the stems become woody.
The way to prevent this is timely pruning, pruning once a week (each time you can prune half a cm at a time).
For grass that has already become woody, apart from the occasional plant with particularly well-developed roots that will send out new shoots from the base, there is generally no improvement. However, you can obtain new plants by taking cuttings of new branches, and pay attention to pruning to avoid lignification.