Plum Blossom Cultivation Key Points and Care Techniques Explained

1. Planting In the south it can be planted in the ground; in the Yellow River basin, cold-hardy varieties can also be planted in the ground, but in cold northern regions they should be grown in pots and overwintered indoors. Planting can be done anytime from after leaf fall to before spring bud break. To improve the survival rate, avoid damaging the root system and transplant with a soil ball. For ground planting, choose a spot sheltered from the wind and facing the sun. For pot planting, use a growing medium of 3 parts leaf mold, 3 parts garden soil, 2 parts river sand, and 2 parts decomposed barnyard manure, evenly mixed. After planting, water once thoroughly. Keep it in a shaded place for care, and once growth resumes, move it into the sun for normal management.

2. Light and Temperature It likes warmth and ample light. Except for apricot-mei varieties that can withstand lows of -25°C, it generally tolerates lows of -10°C. It is heat-tolerant and can still grow at 40°C. It grows and develops best in areas with an annual average temperature of 16-23°C. It is very sensitive to temperature and blooms when the average temperature in early spring reaches -5 to 7°C.

3. Watering and Fertilizing During the growing season, pay attention to watering and keep the potting soil consistently on the moist side; it must neither become waterlogged nor be too wet or too dry. Follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when moist. Generally, water less on cloudy days and when temperatures are low, and more otherwise. In summer, water twice a day; in spring and autumn, water once a day; in winter, water thoroughly only after the soil has dried out completely. Fertilizing should also be reasonable: apply a good base fertilizer before planting and mix in a small amount of monopotassium phosphate; apply monopotassium phosphate once more before flowering; apply decomposed cake fertilizer once at flowering to supplement nutrients. In June, a compound fertilizer can also be applied once to promote flower bud differentiation. After leaf fall in autumn, apply an organic fertilizer once, such as decomposed manure.

4. Shaping and Pruning For ground-planted plum blossoms, shaping and pruning can be done within 20 days after flowering. Focus on a natural tree shape, cutting out crossing branches, upright branches, dead branches, and overly dense branches, and shortening side branches to encourage abundant flowers and lush foliage. Potted plum blossoms should be hard-pruned after potting to lay the foundation for making bonsai. Usually a plum stump is used as the main structure, with various forms of plum blossoms grafted onto it. Maintain a certain temperature, and the plum blossoms can be seen in full bloom at Spring Festival. If you want them to bloom at "May 1st," keep the temperature at 0-5°C in a moist environment, move them outdoors in early April, and place them in a spot with ample sunlight and good ventilation for care, and they will bloom around "May 1st."

5. Flowering Control Potted plum blossoms are generally for home viewing. After leaf fall in winter, place them indoors with the temperature kept at 0-5°C. After New Year's Day, gradually raise the temperature to 5-10°C, give them full light, and frequently spray water on the branches; the water temperature should be close to room temperature.

Cultivation Key Points of Potentilla fruticosa (Shrubby Cinquefoil)

Potentilla fruticosa is named for its flower shape resembling plum blossom, but it is not actually a plum; however, like plum blossom, it belongs to the Rosaceae family. Potentilla fruticosa is extremely cold-hardy and can endure lows of -50°C. In China's Qinghai-Tibet Plateau region, it is called Gesang flower.

Potentilla fruticosa

Potentilla fruticosa is produced in Qinghai, Gansu, Sichuan, and Yunnan; it is distributed in Northeast and North China; it is widely distributed in the north temperate zone. Potentilla fruticosa mainly grows in mountain areas above 1800 m elevation, and the soil in its native habitat is mountain meadow soil. The plant is moderate in form, graceful in bearing, with golden-yellow flowers that are bright and vivid, giving it high ornamental garden value.

When potting Potentilla fruticosa seedlings or repotting large plants that have been grown for several years, first place a 2-3 cm thick layer of coarse-grained substrate at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on top as base fertilizer at a thickness of about 1-2 cm, then cover with a thin layer of substrate about 1-2 cm thick, and then place the plant in so that the fertilizer is separated from the roots to avoid burning them. For the potting substrate, one of the following can be used: vegetable garden soil: cinder = 3:1; or garden soil: medium-coarse river sand: sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, or leaf mold. After potting, water once thoroughly and keep it in a shaded environment for one week of care. When transplanting seedlings, first dig the planting hole, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole as bottom fertilizer (base fertilizer) at a thickness of about 4-6 cm, then cover with a layer of soil and place the seedling in, so that the fertilizer is separated from the roots to avoid burning them. After placing the seedling in, backfill the soil to cover the roots, firm the soil with your feet, and water once thoroughly.

Cultivation Key Points of Staghorn Fern

Staghorn fern is a plant in the genus Platycerium of the family Polypodiaceae, an epiphytic ornamental fern. It is named for its appearance, which closely resembles deer antlers. Its unique shape also makes staghorn fern an excellent material for indoor three-dimensional greening. At present, staghorn fern is fairly widely cultivated in Europe and America, and in recent years, China's development and use of staghorn fern has also gradually matured.

Staghorn fern

I. Container

Staghorn fern should be planted in a specially made pot (that is, several small round holes are drilled in the pot wall, each with a diameter of 3-5 cm). When planting, first fill the gaps in the holes on the pot wall and bottom with fresh palm fiber, then add leaf mold, brown peat soil, and slightly moist sawdust, then plant the plant into the pot, water thoroughly, and place it in a cool place. A small amount of fern roots, moss, or leaf mold plus decomposed cake fertilizer can also be used as the substrate; tie the plant onto a section of stem with bark and hang it in a shady, humid place. After the plant resumes growth, hang it under a ceiling or on a bookshelf where it can receive scattered light. Try to avoid touching staghorn fern with your hands, otherwise the white fuzz on its leaf surface easily falls off.

II. Water

During the peak growing season, water more and spray frequently to maintain high air humidity. In summer during the peak growth period, more watering is needed; water in the early morning or evening when temperatures are low, and spray frequently to keep the growing environment at high air humidity, which is beneficial to the growth and development of the nutrient leaves and spore leaves. When temperatures are low in winter, water less to prevent root rot. Try to schedule watering at midday on sunny days when the temperature is relatively high.

III. Fertilizing

During the growing season, spray diluted cake fertilizer water every ten days, or spray quick-acting dilute urea on the leaf surface, to keep the leaves tender green and thick. Each year, replenish leaf mold or moss in the pot basket of a mature staghorn fern to facilitate the growth and development of new spore bodies. It most fears random fertilizing, concentrated fertilizer, and one-sided application of nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium fertilizer; follow the fertilizing (watering) principle of "light fertilizer applied frequently, small amounts with more applications, complete nutrition."

IV. Temperature

The optimal growth temperature is 18°C-30°C. It is averse to cold and frost, and the overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10°C. When the winter temperature drops below 4°C, it enters a dormant state. If the ambient temperature approaches 0°C, it will die from frost injury.

V. Light

Staghorn fern fears strong light exposure, so avoid direct strong light and dry wind. When caring for it outdoors, place it under tree shade or a shade shed, and also be sure to spray water on the leaves frequently. For outdoor care, it can be hung under a shade shed, and direct sunlight must be avoided to prevent the leaves from yellowing and scorching, which would affect the ornamental value of staghorn fern. Every one or two months, move it outdoors to a semi-shaded spot or keep it in shade for a month of care, so that it can accumulate nutrients and recover its growth vigor.