Introduction to the Growth Habits and Origin Distribution of Iris

[Aliases] Butterfly blue, butterfly flower, iron carrying pole.

[Family and genus] Iridaceae, Iris.

[Morphology] Rhizome short and thick with many nodes. Plant height 30—60 cm. Leaves sword-shaped, 30--50 cm long, 2.5-3.0 cm wide. Flower stems 30-50 cm tall, with 1--2 branches, each branch bearing 1--3 flowers; flowers blue-purple, opening in May to June. Capsule long elliptic, with 6 ribs. Flowering period May.

[Varieties, forms and cultivars]

White-flowered variety (var. alba Dykes), flower color pure white.

[Origin and distribution] Native to central China. Distributed in Yunnan, Sichuan and the Jiangsu, Zhejiang area, growing at the edge of shrub forests at 800--1800 m elevation. Widely cultivated in domestic gardens.

[Habits] Strong cold resistance; can be grown in the open in Shanghai; sprouting early in spring; where microclimate conditions are good, the above-ground stems and leaves do not completely die in winter. Prefers well-drained but moderately moist soil. Its flower bud differentiation is completed in autumn between August and September. In spring the terminal bud at the tip of the rhizome grows and flowers, and several lateral buds usually form on both sides of the terminal bud; after growing in spring, the lateral buds form new rhizomes and re-differentiate flower buds in autumn. After the flower buds bloom, the terminal bud dies and the lateral buds continue to form flower buds.

[Propagation] Division is mostly used. When the rhizome grows large, division can be carried out, once every 2--4 years, in spring, autumn or after flowering. Before winter sets in, the plants should be allowed to grow fully without affecting flower bud differentiation. When dividing the rhizome, each piece should have at least 1 bud, preferably 2-3 buds. For mass propagation, the rhizome can be divided and inserted in wet sand at 20°C to encourage the growth of adventitious buds.

Sowing should be done immediately after the seeds mature, so that they germinate easily the following spring; they flower 2-3 years after sowing. If the seeds, after maturing (early September), are soaked in water for 24 hours and then refrigerated for 10 days, sown in a cold frame, they can germinate in October.

[Cultivation] Prefers well-drained, moderately moist soil, and slightly alkaline soil containing lime is most suitable. Before planting, apply rotted compost; oil rice, bone meal, plant ash, etc. can also be used as base fertilizer. Chemical fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing during the growing period.

[Uses] The rhizome is used medicinally to treat bruises and injuries. It is a suitable material for flower beds, flower borders and naturalistic planting, and can also be used as a cut flower. It is widely used in Shanghai gardens and green spaces; its leaves do not completely wither in winter, and it is often planted under trees as a ground cover plant.

Internship Report on the Arrangement and Layout of Park Plants

I. Styles of Garden Plant Arrangement

Arrangement styles and characteristics: because garden creation is influenced by different aesthetic spirits, tastes and cultural backgrounds, in the specific handling and arrangement of elements such as mountains, water, plants and architecture, different aesthetic effects will be embodied and pursued; this leads to differences in garden styles and characteristics, and likewise forms different styles and artistic characteristics of plant landscape arrangement. Because of regional differences, Chinese traditional gardens show differences in style. This also causes differences in the styles and characteristics of garden plant landscapes: imperial gardens embody an imperial grandeur, with ancient and solemn tall trees such as green pines and cypresses set off against strongly colored buildings, forming a solemn and majestic garden character. Private gardens pursue a plain, elegant urban woodland rustic charm. In a tiny space, breaking through spatial limitations and creating the garden art of “a tiny woodland, many scenic views” depends on plant arrangement.

II. Aesthetic Characteristics of Garden Plant Arrangement

Seasonal beauty in the flow of time: the ceaseless cycle of spring, summer, autumn and winter is revealed in the flow of time, and besides showing changes in climate and temperature, the four seasons of the year more vividly display the concrete changes in the forms of mountains, waters, flowers and trees, all of which can be called seasonal beauty. The space formed by the spatial aesthetics of plant landscapes in classical gardens, whether viewed in terms of its layers, artistic conception or many other aspects, has outstanding characteristics.

III. The “Artistic Conception” of Garden Plant Arrangement and Its Application

In the long-standing Chinese garden culture, many personified plants symbolize people's lofty ideals, pursued feelings, magnificent imaginations and intellectual tastes, expressing ideas of passion and friendship; they are not only profound in meaning but also achieve the realm of harmony between heaven and humanity. In classical gardens deeply influenced by culture, suitable plant arrangement involves both cultural and technical aspects. Only when the two are combined can there be an imagery effect in which traditional culture and environmental craft are coordinated. If cultural content is the “conception” of plant landscape arrangement, then technical content is the “craftsmanship.” The “conception” and “craftsmanship” of plant landscape arrangement: an overview. The “conception” of plant landscape arrangement is the mutual fusion of the plant's own cultural connotation, the garden owner's aesthetic view, cosmology and view of personality, and a landscape that reflects this into the natural world and the garden owner's inner world. Urban land area is limited, and it is difficult to expand gardens widely; one can only make artistic arrangements in gardening techniques, striving to achieve the scene of a “universe in a pot.” This is governed by the landscape and is also a need of garden art. To take both aspects into account in a unified way, the essence of traditional culture must be threaded through the “conception” of plant landscape arrangement. Specifically, through plant arrangement, the urban woodland can both lodge the mind's aspirations and allow the living environment to form an ideal world of peace and comfort. The “craftsmanship” of plant landscape arrangement is the implementation and guarantee of the “conception”; “craftsmanship” is putting the intention of the arrangement into practice in the garden, that is, planting plant materials according to the arrangement intention in suitable places in the garden, and through maintenance making them survive and form a landscape. Therefore, a perfect plant landscape design must possess a high degree of unity between scientific and artistic aspects.

IV. Methods of Plant Arrangement

In Chinese classical gardens and larger parks and scenic areas, plant arrangement usually adopts the natural style, but in local areas, especially near main buildings and beside main roads, the regular style is also used. The main methods of arranging garden plants include solitary planting, opposite planting, row planting, clump planting and mass planting.

Solitary planting mainly displays the individual beauty of a tree and is often used as the main scene of a garden space. The requirements for a solitary tree are: graceful posture, bright color, slightly large size, long life and distinctive character. When other trees are arranged around it, a suitable viewing distance should be maintained. Around precious ancient and famous trees, no other trees and shrubs should be planted, so as to preserve their unique bearing. For trees used for shade and solitary planting, a broad crown, dense branches and leaves, large leaves and few pests and diseases are required, and a round or umbrella-shaped crown is preferable.

Opposite planting means symmetrically planting roughly equal numbers of trees, mostly used at garden gates, building entrances, and on both sides of squares or bridgeheads. In naturalistic planting, absolute symmetry is not required, and balance of form should also be maintained in opposite planting.

Row planting, also called belt planting, is planting trees in rows or belts, mostly used along streets and highways, or around regular squares. If used as a background for garden scenery or as a separation measure, dense planting is generally preferable, forming a tree screen.

Clump planting is a combination of more than three trees of different species; it is a commonly used method in gardens and can be used as a main scene or an accompanying scene, and can also be used as a background or separation measure. The arrangement should be natural and conform to the laws of artistic composition, striving to show both the collective beauty of the plants and the individual beauty of the tree species.

Mass planting is a collective combination of the same tree species, with a relatively large number of trees, mainly to display collective beauty, with the charm of “forming a forest.”

V. Artistic Techniques of Plant Arrangement

In garden space, whether plants are the main scene or plants and other garden elements together form the main scene, in the selection of plant species, determination of quantity, arrangement of positions and adoption of methods, the main subject should be emphasized, with clear distinction between primary and secondary, so as to display the characteristics and style of the garden space landscape.

Contrast and foil: use the different morphological characteristics of plants, and employ contrasts of height, posture, leaf shape and leaf color, flower shape and flower color, to express a certain artistic conception and set off a beautiful plant landscape. When combining tree groups, attention should be paid to mutual coordination; tree species with greatly differing forms and colors should not be combined together.

Layers and background: to overcome the monotony of the landscape, multi-layered arrangement with trees, shrubs, flowers and ground cover plants is preferable. Plants with different flower colors and flowering periods arranged in alternating layers can make the plant landscape rich and colorful. Background trees are generally preferably taller than foreground trees, and the planting density should be high, preferably forming a green barrier; the tone should be dark, or there should be a relatively large difference in tone and color intensity from the foreground, to strengthen the foil effect.  

VI. The following is some of the knowledge about park layout that I learned during this internship:

(1) Layout of Large Comprehensive Urban Parks

1. Main Entrance Scenic Area

It mainly includes the entrance gathering and dispersing square, parking lot, gate, sculpture landscape wall, etc. The main entrance of a park is the first-order space for the transformation from urban space to park space. At the entrance, an open prologue space should be formed as the entrance gathering and dispersing square,

2. Plant Arrangement of Park Road Green Spaces

The plant arrangement of park road green spaces has two functions, ornamental and shade-providing; according to the primary and secondary status and direction of the park roads, suitable arrangement methods should be adopted as appropriate. Shade-providing tree species are selected for planting, to block solar radiation and provide shade for visitors on roadside seats. At the same time, a tall green vertical background is correspondingly formed, indirectly enriching the forest canopy of the park's vegetation. The entire plant arrangement is mainly ornamental, flexibly arranged, creating a rich touring landscape. For example, deodar cedar, ginkgo, Huangshan luan tree, Chinese tulip tree, etc. are used as “screen scenery trees” or ornamental trees, matched with sparse and dense crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, crabapple, red plum, red maple and other flowering shrubs and spherical plants such as pittosporum balls, producing a well-arranged, varied and richly layered group-style plant structure, forming ornamental plant communities with changing scenery at every step and a scene at each step.

3. Plant Arrangement of Green Spaces Adjacent to Main and Secondary Squares

The plant arrangement of the main and secondary squares is mainly concise, generous and bright; for example, straight-line or arc-shaped pattern beds composed of azaleas, red-flowered loropetalum, golden-leaf privet, etc., set off the entrance atmosphere, with Canary Island date palm as the main landscape feature, forming a neat, stretched and transparent landscape effect.

4. Plant Arrangement of Buildings and Water Scenic Areas and Riverside Landscape Belts

Ecological planting can be adopted, that is, according to the ecological habits of plants and the growth conditions of plants in nature, optimized combinations are made: for example, tall trees such as kapok, Bauhinia, silver oak and paper mulberry are used as landscape trees to shade buildings and at the same time create resting conditions for visitors. Low deciduous shrubs and evergreen spherical plants, such as firethorn, crabapple, crape myrtle and yellow sophora, are planted in clumps or masses, and pruned and shaped, composing plant landscapes of different layers, different forms and ornamental value. In shady places blocked by buildings and by the water, color-viewing shrubs such as hosta, azalea, iris, red-back bead and canna are arranged, supplemented with an appropriate scale of three-season herbaceous flowers as a foil, forming a plant landscape of clustered flowers and competing splendor, with a natural pattern and a vibrant landscape effect.

5. Four-Season Flowers

Park flowers are mainly three-season herbaceous flowers, supplemented with an appropriate amount of perennial varieties, such as Chinese rose, hosta, iris, phlox, etc. To ensure the atmosphere effect of the main areas, park flowers are mainly arranged in areas with relatively concentrated visitor flow such as squares, buildings and watersides. Due to seasonal characteristics, the use of flowers should as far as possible consider reasonable matching with pattern beds composed of low plants such as golden-leaf privet, red-flowered loropetalum, golden leaf, serissa, etc., to enrich the ornamental layers and make up for defects in seasonal appearance, so that the limited flowers in the park both meet ornamental needs and also have sound insulation and dust reduction effects. Colorful, rigorous yet natural, fully giving play to the role of flowers in setting off the park landscape.

6. Plant Arrangement of Landscape Trees

Landscape trees occupy an important position in the overall plant community of the park; the appropriate arrangement of an appropriate amount of landscape trees can greatly improve the plant ornamental effect of the park. The arrangement of landscape trees in the park is mainly chosen in the surrounding gentle slope areas and the middle area of the large lawn. A small number of deodar cedar, ginkgo, banyan, camphor, chinaberry, paper mulberry, etc. are planted in spots as landscape trees, weakening the emptiness of the large lawn and increasing the ornamental points of the plant community, with relatively ideal results.

7. Road System Design

The design of the park road network should avoid backtracking; from one scenic area to another there should be a transition, that is, a quiet and tranquil stretch of road for visual rest, becoming a transitional space. The road system of the whole park is clearly graded, so that all scenic spots in the park are organized within the road networks at all levels. The main park road is about 4.5 m wide, the secondary park road about 2-3 m wide, and the walking path about 1.2-1.5 m wide, forming small loops.

(2) Park Garden Buildings

1. Garden Pavilion

A garden building for visitors to rest and view scenery. The characteristic of a garden pavilion is that it is open on all sides and relatively small and concentrated in shape; therefore, pavilions are often combined with mountains, water and greenery to form scenery, and serve as a means of “accenting the scenery” in gardens.

In modern and contemporary architecture, new materials and technologies such as steel, concrete and glass are used to build pavilions, providing more convenient conditions for architectural creation. Therefore, pavilions are more lively and free in shape and more diverse in form, including various flat-roofed pavilions, umbrella pavilions, mushroom pavilions, etc.; in layout, more consideration is given to organic combination with the surrounding environment; in use function, besides meeting the requirements of rest, viewing and accenting scenery, they also adapt to various other needs in gardens, such as use for library reading, photography services, etc.

2. Garden Corridor

A passage under the eaves and its extension into an independent roofed passage is called a corridor; one built in a garden is called a garden corridor. In gardens, corridors not only serve as a means for individual buildings to connect indoors and outdoors, but also often become connecting passages between various buildings and a component of the touring route within the garden. They have the functions of shading and sheltering from rain, rest and traffic connection, and also play a role in organizing scenery, separating space and increasing the layers of scenery. Corridors are widely used in gardens of various countries.

Commonly used corridor structures include: wooden structure, brick and stone structure, steel and concrete structure, bamboo structure, etc. Corridor roofs include pitched roofs, flat roofs and arched roofs, etc. The forms and design methods of corridors in gardens are rich and diverse. Their basic types, by structural form, can be divided into: double-sided open corridor, single-sided open corridor, double corridor, two-story corridor and single-pillar corridor, five kinds. By the overall shape of the corridor and its relationship with terrain and environment, they can be divided into: straight corridor, curved corridor, winding corridor, hand-in-hand corridor, mountain-climbing corridor, terraced corridor, water corridor, bridge corridor, etc.

3. Waterside Pavilion

A waterside garden building for visitors to rest and enjoy the scenery.

The typical form of a waterside pavilion in a garden is a platform built at the water's edge, with part of the platform on the bank and part extending into the water. The part of the platform spanning the water is set aloft above the water surface with beams and columns. Around the waterside part of the platform are low flat railings, or goose-neck reclining chairs are provided for sitting and leaning. On the bank-side part of the platform is built a rectangular single building (this building sometimes covers the entire platform); the water-facing side of the building is the main viewing direction, often using floor-to-ceiling doors and windows, open and transparent. One can both view the scenery indoors and go out onto the platform to rest and look into the distance. The roof is generally a gracefully shaped rounded-ridge gable-and-hip style. The building facade is mostly horizontal lines, to coordinate with the water-level scenery. For example, the Hibiscus Pavilion in the Humble Administrator's Garden in Suzhou.

4. Garden Bridge

A bridge in a garden can connect the land and water traffic of scenic spots, organize touring routes, change viewing lines of sight, embellish water scenery, increase the layers of the water surface, and has the dual role of traffic and artistic appreciation. The value of a garden bridge in the art of gardening often exceeds its traffic function.

The basic forms of garden bridges are: (1) Flat bridge. Simple in appearance, with straight-line and zigzag forms, and beam-type and slab-type structures. The slab-type bridge is suitable for smaller spans, simple and elegant. (2) Arch bridge. Graceful in shape, with smooth curves, full of dynamic feeling. (3) Pavilion bridge and corridor bridge. A bridge with an added pavilion or corridor is called a pavilion bridge or corridor bridge; it can provide visitors with shade and shelter from rain and also increases the bridge's changes in form. (4) Others. Stepping stones, also called step stones or flying stones. Block stones are laid at certain intervals in shallow water, slightly exposed above the water surface, allowing people to step across. The use of this ancient water-crossing facility in gardens is plain and natural, with a distinctive charm. Step stones beautified into lotus leaf shapes are called “lotus steps.”

5. Garden Wall

Garden walls play a role in dividing inside and outside ranges, separating internal space and screening unattractive scenery in gardens. Exquisite garden walls can also decorate the garden scenery.

Garden walls, by material and construction, can be divided into rammed-earth walls, rubble walls, polished-brick walls, white-powder walls, etc. White-powder walls are mostly used to separate courtyard spaces, with blue tiles on top of the wall. Using white-powder walls to set off rocks, flowers and trees is like painting landscapes and flowers on white paper, with an especially fine artistic conception. Between garden walls and rockeries there can be either separation or connection, each with its own beauty. Between garden walls and water surfaces there should preferably be roads, stone peaks and flowers and trees as embellishment; scenery reflected on the wall surface and in the water can increase interest. Bamboo-producing areas often use local materials and weave garden walls from bamboo, which is both economical and full of local color, but not sturdy and durable enough, and not suitable for permanent garden walls.

The setting of garden walls is mostly combined with terrain; flat terrain is mostly built into flat walls, while slopes or mountainous land are built into stepped forms according to the terrain; to avoid monotony, some are built into wave-shaped cloud walls. On the inner side of garden walls that divide inside and outside ranges, earth mounds, flower terraces, rocks, tree clumps, covered corridors, etc. are often used to conceal the wall, producing the effect of infinite landscape in a limited space.

6. Pergola

  A garden facility made of rigid materials forming a framework of a certain shape for climbing plants to cling to, also called a trellis or green corridor. A pergola can be used for shade and rest and can also embellish the garden scenery. In pergola design, one should understand the place of origin and growth habits of the plants to be arranged, so as to create conditions suitable for plant growth and the requirements of the shape.

The forms of pergolas include: (1) Corridor-style pergola. The most common form, with slab panels supported on left and right beams and columns, into which visitors can enter to rest. (2) Slab-style pergola. Slab panels fixed on single-direction beams and columns, cantilevered on both sides or one side, light and lively in form. (3) Freestanding pergola. Various materials are used to make openwork, forming the shapes of walls, vases, umbrella pavilions, etc., with vines twining to form the shape, for ornamental use.

Pergolas can be applied in various types of garden green spaces, often set in scenic places for rest and accenting the scenery, and can also be combined with pavilions, corridors and waterside pavilions to form beautiful garden building groups; in residential green spaces and children's playgrounds, pergolas can provide rest, shade and coolness; using a pergola instead of a corridor can connect spaces; using lattice walls with climbing vines can separate scenery; tea rooms, cold drink stands, restaurants, etc. in gardens can also use pergolas as shade sheds with seating; pergolas can also be used as garden gates.

7. Garden Ornaments

Small architectural facilities in gardens for rest, decoration, lighting, display and for garden management and the convenience of visitors. Generally they have no internal space, are small in volume, unique in shape, rich in character, and particular about being appropriately placed. When such architectural ornaments are set in outdoor environments such as city streets, squares and green spaces, they are called urban architectural ornaments. Garden architectural ornaments in gardens can beautify the environment, enrich garden interest, provide convenience for visitors' cultural rest and public activities, and also allow visitors to gain a sense of beauty and good edification from them.

Garden architectural ornaments are divided by function into five categories: (1) Ornaments for rest. Including backrest garden chairs, stools, tables of various shapes and sunshade umbrellas, covers, etc. Often combined with the environment, natural block stones or concrete made to imitate stone or tree stumps are used for stools and tables; or the low walls at the edges of flower beds and flower terraces and underground ventilation channels are used for chairs, stools, etc.; chairs and stools are set around the base of large trees, both for rest and for enjoying shade. (2) Decorative ornaments. Various fixed and movable flower pots and ornamental vases, in which flowers can be frequently changed. Decorative incense burners, water vats, various scenery walls, scenery windows, etc., play an embellishing role in gardens. (3) Ornaments combined with lighting. The bases, lamp posts, lamp heads and lamp fixtures of garden lights all have strong decorative effects. (4) Display ornaments. Various notice boards, guide map boards, direction signs, as well as explanation plaques for zoos, parks and cultural relic ancient buildings, newspaper reading boards, picture galleries, etc., all have a publicity and educational effect on visitors. (5) Service ornaments. Such as drinking fountains, wash basins, public telephone booths, clock towers, etc. serving visitors; railings, lattice walls, edge decorations of flower beds and green spaces, etc. for protecting garden facilities; waste bins, etc. for maintaining environmental hygiene.

Garden architectural ornaments have the characteristics of being exquisite, ingenious and diversified; in design and creation, one can achieve “scenery according to circumstance, not confined to one pattern,” obtaining natural charm in limited space. The creation requirements for garden architectural ornaments are: (1) establish their interest and conception, and according to the natural landscape and cultural customs, make the design conception of the ornaments in the scenic spot; (2) fit their appropriateness, choose reasonable positions and layouts, achieving cleverness and appropriateness, refinement and suitability; (3) take their characteristics, fully reflect the characteristics of the architectural ornament, and cleverly fuse them into the garden form; (4) follow nature, do not destroy the original appearance, achieving interest upon entering the gate and scenery according to form; (5) seek their borrowing, and through the selection of natural scenery images, enable ornaments with concise shapes to obtain the effect of full and substantial scenery; (6) adorn their space, making full use of the flexibility and diversity of architectural ornaments to enrich the garden space; (7) cleverly accent them, strengthening the scenery that needs to be highlighted, and cleverly transforming corners that affect the scenery into objects for touring and appreciation; (8) seek their contrast, cleverly combining two kinds of material with obvious differences, mutually setting each other off and showing the characteristics of both.

Summary: Garden layout should adapt to local conditions; before layout, first understand the requirements of the garden-building unit or garden owner, and make a detailed investigation of the conditions of the garden-building base, not only understanding the base itself but also understanding the surrounding external environment. The layout should conform to nature, and make appropriate modifications by fully using the original terrain and landforms, so that the composition can be appropriate and suitable. Garden layout should embody the spirit of the times, national characteristics and local style, and should constantly bring forth the new through the old.

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

1．What are the benefits of growing flowers？
With their gorgeous elegance, flowers decorate nature with exceptional beauty and give people the enjoyment of beauty. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and raise cultural and artistic accomplishment. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of the motherland, protect and improve it, purify the air, and enable people to work and study in a beautiful environment, making life better. Growing flowers is not only for viewing, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine; honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, azalea, Chinese rose, lotus, etc. are all commonly used medicinal materials. Fragrant flowers have wide uses in food, light industry and other aspects; for example, osmanthus can be used as a food spice and for brewing wine, jasmine, Michelia alba, bitter orange and Chloranthus can be used to scent tea, and chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes. Michelia alba, jasmine, rose, wintersweet, narcissus, etc. can be used to extract essences. Growing flowers can also earn foreign exchange and accumulate funds. For example, the high-grade essence extracted from roses - rose oil - is regarded on the international market as “liquid gold,” and its value is even more precious than gold.

2．What categories are flowers divided into？
China has long had the fine name of “Mother of Gardens of the World,” with rich flower resources and numerous kinds. To facilitate cultivation, management and use, it is necessary to understand knowledge of flower classification. Because the bases of classification differ, the methods of classification also differ. According to the morphological characteristics of flowers, flowers are usually divided into two major categories, herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; those with soft stem texture are called herbaceous flowers, and those with hard woody stems are called woody flowers. According to flower growth habits and morphological characteristics, they can generally be divided into herbaceous flowers, woody flowers, succulent flowers and aquatic flowers. Herbaceous flowers, according to differences in their growth and development cycles, can be further divided into annual herbaceous flowers, biennial herbaceous flowers, perennial flowers, bulbous flowers and lawn plants, etc. Woody flowers, according to differences in trunk height and crown size, can be further divided into trees, shrubs and vine flowers. Succulent flowers have fleshy, thick stems and leaves, store abundant water in their bodies, and some have leaves reduced to needles or feather-like forms, with peculiar shapes, so they form a category of their own in horticultural cultivation. Aquatic flowers grow year-round in water and marshy areas, most belonging to perennial plants. According to the ornamental part, flowers can be divided into flower-viewing types (mainly for viewing flower color and flower shape, such as chrysanthemum and Chinese rose, etc.), foliage-viewing types (mainly for viewing leaf color and leaf shape, such as croton and Caladium, etc.), fruit-viewing types (mainly for viewing fruit, such as kumquat, etc.), stem-viewing types (mainly for viewing branches and stems, such as pencil tree and mountain shadow fist, etc.) and bud-viewing types (mainly for viewing buds, such as silver willow). According to use, flowers can be divided into cut flowers (such as carnation and calla lily, etc.), indoor flowers (such as clivia and Monstera deliciosa, etc.), courtyard flowers (such as Chinese rose and chrysanthemum, etc.), medicinal flowers (such as peony and honeysuckle, etc.), spice flowers (such as Michelia alba, jasmine and rose, etc.) and edible flowers (lily, daylily, pomegranate). In addition, based on the climatic conditions of the places of origin of flowers and according to natural distribution, flowers are divided into tropical flowers, subtropical flowers, warm temperate flowers, temperate flowers, subcold temperate flowers, alpine flowers, etc. This classification method can reflect the habits of various flowers and the conditions that need to be met for their growth and development during cultivation.

3．What are bulbous flowers？

Bulbous flowers refer to perennial herbaceous flowers whose underground stems or roots have become metamorphosed and are bulbous or similar in shape. According to the morphological structure of their underground stems or roots, they can be roughly divided into 5 major categories: (1) Bulb type. The underground stem is scale-like. Those with a papery outer skin are called tunicate bulbs, such as tulip, narcissus and amaryllis, etc.; those without an outer skin covering the scales are called non-tunicate bulbs, such as lily, etc. (2) Corm type. The underground stem is spherical or oblate, covered with a leathery outer skin, such as gladiolus and freesia, etc. (3) Rhizome type. The underground stem is enlarged and root-like, with obvious nodes on it, and new buds are borne at the tips of the branches, such as canna, ginger lily, lotus, water lily and hosta, etc. (4) Tuber type. The underground stem is irregularly block-shaped or strip-shaped, such as calla lily, cyclamen, gloxinia and tuberose, etc. (5) Tuberous root type. The main underground root is enlarged and block-shaped, and the root system grows from the end of the tuberous root, such as dahlia, etc.

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

7．What effect does water have on the growth and development of flowers？

Water is a necessary condition for the growth and reproduction of flowers. It has a great influence on the growth and development of flowers. Because if water absorption exceeds consumption, there is too much water in the flower body, the plant becomes especially slender and weak, cold resistance declines, and stress resistance weakens. If there is too much water for a long time, it will cause root rot, leaf drop and even death. If water absorption is less than consumption, due to lack of water, flowers appear wilted, and severe water shortage will cause flowers to wither and die. There are many kinds of flowers, and their water requirements also differ; even for the same kind of flower, water requirements differ at different periods of growth. According to the different water requirements of flowers, flowers can generally be divided into 3 categories: xerophytic, aquatic and mesophytic: (1) Xerophytic flowers. Such as plum blossom, crape myrtle, Malus micromalus, hollyhock and nandina, etc., and succulent flowers are all relatively drought-tolerant. (2) Aquatic flowers. Such as lotus, water lily, calamus and water bamboo, etc. (3) Mesophytic flowers. Flowers that can grow well in moist soil. The vast majority of flowers belong to this type, such as magnolia, Michelia alba, wintersweet, peach blossom, camellia and redbud, etc.

8．What effect does air humidity have on flowers？

9．Why do flowers die from too much watering？

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

10．What harm is there in insufficient watering of potted flowers?
Because potted flowers have little soil and do not store much water, during the flower growing season attention should be paid to regularly replenishing water to ensure normal growth of the flowers. If the water supply is insufficient, leaves and leaf stalks will shrivel and droop, and the flowers will show wilting. If water supply to flowers is insufficient for a long time, the older leaves and the leaves in the lower part of the plant will gradually turn yellow and dry up. If most herbaceous flowers remain in a dry state for a long time, the plants become short, the leaves lose their fresh green luster, and even the whole plant withers and dies. Some flower growers, fearing excessive watering, each time water only a “half-way water,” that is, the amount of water applied can only moisten the surface soil while the lower soil is dry; this watering method will likewise affect the development of the flower root system and also produce the above adverse phenomena. Therefore, watering should be done by seeing dry and seeing wet, and when watering, water thoroughly.

11．How to judge whether potted flowers lack water？

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

13．What kind of water is good for watering flowers？
Water can be classified as hard water or soft water according to its salt content. Hard water contains more salts; using it to water flowers often causes brown spots on the leaf surface of flowers, affecting the ornamental effect, so soft water is preferable for watering flowers. Among soft waters, rainwater (or snow water) is the most ideal, because rainwater is a nearly neutral water, contains no minerals, and has more air, making it very suitable for watering flowers. If rainwater can be collected and stored on rainy days for watering flowers, it helps promote the assimilation of flowers, prolong the cultivation years, and improve the ornamental value; especially flowers that prefer acidic soil like rainwater even more. Therefore, during the rainy season, more rainwater should be stored for later use. In various parts of Northeast China, snow water can be used to water flowers, and the effect is also very good, but note that the ice and snow must be melted and left until the water temperature is close to room temperature before use. If there is no rainwater or snow water, river water or pond water can be used. If tap water is used, it must first be stored in a bucket (or vat) for 1-2 days to let the chlorine in the water volatilize before use, which is more reliable. Water used for washing flowers must not contain soap or washing powder laundry water, nor can dishwashing water containing grease. For flowers such as cacti that prefer slightly alkaline conditions, it is not suitable to use slightly acidic leftover tea water, etc. In addition, when watering flowers, attention should also be paid to the water temperature. Whether watering flowers in summer or winter, if the difference between water temperature and air temperature is too large (exceeding 5 degrees), it is easy to damage the root system of flowers. Therefore, the water used for watering flowers should preferably be placed in a bucket (or vat) to air and sun for a day first, and used only when the water temperature is close to the air temperature.

14．How should the amount of water for potted flowers be controlled?？
Whether the amount of water for potted flowers can be timely and appropriate is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. Based on experience from various places, the amount of water for potted flowers should be comprehensively judged according to the flower variety, plant size, growth and development stage, climate, soil conditions, pot size, placement location, and other aspects, to determine the time, frequency, and amount of watering. Under normal circumstances, moisture-loving flowers should be watered more, and drought-loving flowers should be watered less; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much; herbaceous flowers have a high water content and also high transpiration, so they should be watered more than woody flowers; flowers with large, soft, smooth, hairless leaves should be watered more, while flowers with small leaves and a waxy layer, down, or leathery texture should be watered less; during vigorous growth periods, water more, and during dormancy, water less; when the seedling is large and the pot is small, water more, and when the seedling is small and the pot is large, water less; when the weather is hot, water more, and when it is cold, water less; in dry weather, water more, and on cloudy days, water less, etc. For general flowers, the water supply through the four seasons is as follows: after the beginning of spring each year, the temperature gradually rises, flowers enter their vigorous growth period, and the amount of watering gradually increases. In early spring, watering should be done before noon. In summer, the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously, and transpiration is strong, so the amount of watering should be sufficient. In summer, watering should be done in the morning and evening. After the beginning of autumn, the temperature gradually drops, flowers grow slowly, and watering should be appropriately reduced. In winter, the temperature is low, and many flowers enter dormancy or semi-dormancy, so watering should be controlled; if the pot soil is not too dry, do not water, so as to avoid root rot and leaf drop caused by excessive watering. In winter, watering should be done at 1-2 p.m.

15．What are the effects of spraying water?？
Spraying water can increase air humidity, lower air temperature, wash dust off plants and rinse away pests, etc., avoid scorching of tender leaves and early withering of flowers, and keep plants fresh; especially for some flowers that like shade and moisture, such as camellia, rhododendron, orchid, monstera, etc., frequently spraying water on the leaf surface is very beneficial to their growth and development. After summer rain when the sky suddenly clears or on stuffy evenings, attention should be paid to spraying water to lower temperature and prevent disease. The amount of water sprayed should be determined according to the needs of the flowers. Generally, if the water evaporates soon after spraying, that amount is the most suitable. Seedlings and delicate flowers need more spraying, newly potted plants and cuttings that have not yet rooted also need more spraying, and tropical orchids, Araceae and Bromeliaceae flowers especially need frequent spraying. However, some flowers are very sensitive to moisture, for example gloxinia, calceolaria, begonia, etc.; their leaf surfaces have thick down, and after water falls on them it is not easy to evaporate, causing the leaves to rot, so water should not be sprayed onto the leaves. For fully open flowers, it is also not suitable to spray too much water, otherwise it easily causes petal mildew or affects fertilization, reducing the seed-setting and fruit-setting rate. In addition, the leaf buds at the top of cyclamen tubers, the flower buds in the leaf clusters of African daisy, and the pseudobulbs in the center of clivia leaf clusters all fear moisture. These parts are all easily harmed after spraying with water.

A Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

16．How to save flowers after they wilt？
For potted flowers, because the pot holds relatively little water, forgetting to water, especially missing watering in hot summer, often easily causes leaf wilting. If not rescued in time, over time it often leads to plant withering. If the rescue is not done properly, it can sometimes also cause plant death. The correct approach is: when leaf wilting is discovered, immediately move the flower pot to a shady, cool place, spray some water on the leaves, and water a small amount. Later, as the stems and leaves gradually recover their uprightness, gradually increase the amount of watering. If at this time too much water is given all at once, it may cause the plant to die. This is because after flowers wilt, large numbers of root hairs have been damaged, so their water-absorbing capacity is greatly reduced; only after new root hairs grow can the original water-absorbing capacity be restored. At the same time, wilting causes cells to lose water. After encountering water, the cell walls absorb water first and expand rapidly, while the protoplasm absorbs water afterward and expands slowly. If at this time a large amount of water is suddenly poured, it will cause plasmolysis, damaging the protoplasm and thus causing the flower to die.

17．What role does soil play in the growth and development of flowers?？

19．How to prepare culture soil？
There are many materials suitable for preparing culture soil. At present, the following are commonly used.
(1) Plain surface sand. Mostly taken from riverbanks. It has good drainage performance but no fertility, and is mostly used by mixing into other cultivation materials to facilitate drainage.
(2) Garden soil. Taken from the surface soil of vegetable gardens, orchards, and similar places. It contains a certain amount of humus and has relatively good physical properties, and is often used as the basic material for most culture soils.
(3) Leaf mold. Made by stacking fallen leaves, dead grass, and other materials. It has a high humus content, strong water retention, and good permeability, and is one of the main materials for preparing culture soil.
(4) Mountain soil. It is divided into black mountain soil and yellow mountain soil. It is formed by the long-term accumulation of fallen leaves from mountain trees. Black mountain soil is acidic and contains more humus; yellow mountain soil is also acidic and contains less humus.
(5) Peat soil. It is formed by the carbonization of peat moss. Due to different stages of formation, it is divided into brown peat and black peat. Brown peat is rich in organic matter and shows an acidic reaction; black peat contains more minerals and less organic matter, and shows a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.
(6) Rice husk ash. It is the ash formed after rice husks are burned. It is slightly alkaline, contains potassium, and has good drainage and air permeability.
(7) Barnyard manure soil. It is made by mixing animal manure, fallen leaves, and other materials into garden soil, sewage, and the like, and stacking and composting them. It has relatively rich fertility. In addition, pond mud, river mud, coniferous soil, turf soil, decayed wood chips, vermiculite, perlite, etc. are all good materials for preparing culture soil. When preparing culture soil, it should be flexibly controlled according to the growth habits of the flowers, the properties of the culture soil materials, and local conditions. For general potted flowers, commonly used culture soil mixing ratios are leaf mold (or peat soil): garden soil: river sand: bone meal = 35:30:30:5, or leaf mold (or peat soil), plain surface sand, decomposed organic fertilizer, superphosphate, etc. mixed in a 5:3.5:1:0.5 ratio, sifted, and used. The above culture soils are mostly neutral or slightly acidic and are suitable for most flowers. For cultivating acid-loving flowering trees such as camellia and rhododendron, about 0.2% sulfur powder can be mixed in; for cultivating flowers such as cactus, about 10% wall skin soil fallen from lime walls can be added.

20．How to make leaf mold yourself？
Leaf mold is a commonly used material for cultivating potted flowers. Where conditions permit, one can go directly to mountain forests and dig up leaf mold formed by years of weathering. Leaf mold can also be made at home. The method is: in autumn, collect fallen leaves of broadleaf or coniferous trees, weeds, and other materials, and pile them into a rectangular pit. When stacking, first put a layer of leaves, then a layer of garden soil, repeat this for several layers, then pour in a small amount of sewage, and finally cover the top with a layer of garden soil and the like about 10 cm thick. In late spring and midsummer of the following year, open it once each time, turn and crush the pile, and then pile it back as before. In warm climates, by late autumn these piled materials can mostly be decomposed. At this time they can be dug out, further crushed, sifted, and used. When stacking, two points should be noted: first, do not press too tightly, so as to facilitate air penetration and create conditions for the activity of aerobic bacteria, thereby accelerating the decomposition of the pile. Second, do not make the pile too wet. If too wet, ventilation is poor, and under oxygen-deficient conditions anaerobic bacteria reproduce and act in large numbers, causing serious loss of nutrients and affecting the quality of the leaf mold.

21．How to determine and change the acidity and alkalinity of culture soil？

The acidity and alkalinity of culture soil directly affect its physical and chemical properties and the growth of flowers. Most flowers grow well in culture soil that is neutral to slightly acidic (pH 5.5-7.0). This is because within this range the nutrient elements absorbed by flowers from the soil are all in a soluble state. Above or below this range, some nutrient elements become unavailable for absorption, thus easily causing nutrient deficiency symptoms in certain flowers. Precisely because of this, before planting flowers it is necessary to determine the acidity and alkalinity of the culture soil. Soil acidity and alkalinity are usually expressed by pH value. A pH value of 7 is neutral, less than 7 is acidic, and greater than 7 is alkaline. If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it must be improved in order to grow flowers well. The simplest method for determining the acidity and alkalinity of culture soil is to buy a box of litmus test paper from a chemical reagent store; the box contains a standard color comparison chart. For the test, take a small amount of culture soil and put it in a clean glass cup, add cool boiled water at a soil-to-water ratio of 1:2, stir fully and let it settle, then put the litmus test paper into the solution, take it out after about 1 or 2 seconds, compare it with the standard color comparison chart, and find the color chart number closest in color, which is the pH value of this culture soil. According to the test results, for culture soil with unsuitable acidity or alkalinity, the following measures can be taken to adjust it. If the acidity is too high, add a small amount of lime powder, etc. to the pot soil; if the alkalinity is too high, add a small amount of sulfur powder, etc. to the pot soil.

As the name implies, soilless cultivation means cultivating flowers without soil, instead using various culture substrates and nutrient solutions. Because soilless cultivation uses a nutrient solution to directly provide the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth and development, it is also called nutrient solution cultivation. It is a new technology in flower cultivation in recent years and has many advantages:
(1) Fast growth and good quality. Because the nutrient solution used in soilless cultivation is carefully prepared according to the needs of flower growth and development, it is conducive to rapid flower growth, so there are more flowers, larger blooms, brighter colors, longer flowering periods, stronger fragrance, and green leaves that remain for a long time without falling. It can not only improve ornamental value, but also shorten the flower production cycle and increase flower output per unit area.
(2) Clean and hygienic, with few pests and diseases. The purpose of growing flowers is to beautify indoor and outdoor environments and give people spiritual enjoyment. The fertilizer used in soilless cultivation is a nutrient solution prepared from inorganic elements, and the substrate is disinfected, so it is both clean and hygienic and can greatly reduce pests and diseases. Therefore, many countries currently have laws restricting the import of flowers with soil. If our country wants to export flowers in large quantities, it must also adopt the new technology of soilless cultivation.
(3) Saves fertilizer and saves water. Because soilless cultivation has a fixed container, fertilizer and water losses are very small. In soil cultivation, however, about half of the nutrients and most of the water are lost.
(4) Low labor intensity, saving labor and time. Soilless cultivation of flowers does not require moving heavy flower pots. The containers used are mainly plastic, and the substrates used, such as vermiculite and perlite, are all very light, only about one-tenth or less of the weight of soil. In management, it is only necessary to regularly replenish the pre-mixed nutrient solution and continuously add water, making the operation simple and the effect very good.
(5) Not subject to many restrictions, suitable for indoor use. Soilless cultivation is relatively flexible. Generally, as long as a site has air, water, light, temperature, and other conditions, this method can be used to cultivate flowers.
23. What substrate is good for soilless cultivation?
The role of the soilless cultivation substrate is to replace soil in fixing the flower plant in the container and to retain nutrient solution and water for the needs of flower growth and development. Therefore, materials with good water retention, good drainage, no harmful substances, cleanliness and hygiene, and a certain strength should be selected. At present, the main soilless cultivation substrates commonly used for home flower growing at home and abroad include sand, gravel, vermiculite, perlite, glass fiber, foam plastic, rock wool, etc.
(1) Vermiculite. It is a mica-type mineral, light in texture and porous, with good air permeability, water absorption, and a certain water-holding capacity, and contains elements such as magnesium and potassium that can be absorbed and used by flowers.
(2) Perlite. It is a siliceous mineral, stable in nature, firm, light in texture, clean and sterile, and has good drainage and aeration, but slightly poorer water and fertilizer retention, so it is best used mixed with vermiculite at 1:1.
(3) Foam plastic. It is very light in texture and can hold a large amount of water per unit volume. Generally it cannot be used alone and is often mixed with sand, etc.
(4) Glass fiber. It is clean and hygienic, highly water-absorbent, can store a large amount of air, does not rot after long-term use, and can support plant roots so they do not fall over. When soilless cultivation substrates are used for a long time, especially in continuous cropping, they often easily breed pathogens and harm flower seedlings, so after each cultivation attention should be paid to disinfection treatment. A 1% concentration bleaching powder solution can be poured onto the substrate to soak for about 30 minutes, then rinsed clean with clear water to eliminate chlorine; its sterilizing effect is good. The disinfected substrate can be reused.

24．How to prepare nutrient solution？

A Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

25．How to carry out soilless cultivation at home？
For home soilless cultivation, ordinary pots such as plastic pots and unglazed clay pots can be used. When planting, first mix various substrates in a certain proportion or put them separately into a plastic pot, then plant seedlings that have grown 3-5 leaves in the center of the pot. Before planting, first place the soil-bearing root system in clear water, gently wash off the root soil, then put the roots into a solution diluted 5-10 times more than the normal concentration of nutrient solution and soak for about 10 minutes to allow them to fully absorb nutrients. After planting, cover with a layer of quartz sand or small stones to fix the plant, and immediately pour 0.5-strength nutrient solution from around the container until nutrient solution flows out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. After that, water once every 1-3 days, and apply dilute nutrient solution once every 7-10 days. After the plant resumes normal growth, apply nutrient solution at normal concentration. The frequency and amount of nutrient solution application should be determined according to the flower type, plant size, different growth stages, season, and placement location. Generally, for indoor potted flowers during the growth period, large seedlings are given nutrient solution about once every 7-15 days, and small seedlings about once every 15-20 days; during the dormant period of flowers, watering about once a month is sufficient. As for the amount of nutrient solution applied each time, generally for sun-loving flowers in a flower pot with an inner diameter of about 20 cm, about 100 mL is applied each time, and the amount for shade-loving flowers should be reduced accordingly. If long-acting flower fertilizer is used, its amount should refer to the product instructions. For beginners, when applying nutrient solution, attention should be paid to moderation; better less than more. If too much is applied, it often easily causes harm such as scorched leaves. In soilless flower growing, in addition to mastering the time and amount of nutrient solution application, water should also be added in a timely manner according to the water requirements of different kinds of flowers, so as to keep the substrate constantly moist and enable the flowers to grow robustly. In order to avoid loss of nutrient solution, it is best to choose a watertight container. A container more suitable for home use consists of two parts: the upper part is a flower pot filled with substrate (with a perforated bottom), into which the flower seedlings are planted, and the lower part is a watertight container holding nutrient solution. When planting with this kind of container, before the plant roots extend into the nutrient solution, some water should be appropriately poured, and a small amount of dilute nutrient solution should be applied about every 5-7 days; after the roots extend into the nutrient solution, normal management begins. According to the growth habits of the flowers, regularly add nutrient solution and water. Generally, completely replace the nutrient solution once a month, and wash the container holding the nutrient solution. Usually, the amount of nutrient solution in the container is best at about 2/3 of the depth of the container. If too much is put in, leaving no space and causing the roots to be entirely soaked in the nutrient solution, insufficient air often easily causes root rot due to oxygen deficiency. For flowers grown by soilless cultivation, the usual maintenance and management work is basically the same as that of soil cultivation, and it is also necessary to provide environmental conditions such as light, temperature, and humidity suitable for their growth and development according to the habits of the flower species.

26．What are the commonly used fertilizers?？
Commonly used fertilizers fall into the following two categories:
(1) Organic fertilizers. They are usually divided into animal-based organic fertilizers and plant-based organic fertilizers. Animal-based organic fertilizers include human excrement and urine, feathers, hooves and horns of poultry and livestock, bone meal, and waste from fish, meat, and eggs. Plant-based organic fertilizers include soybean cake and other cake fertilizers, sesame paste residue, weeds, leaves, green manure, Chinese herbal medicine residue, distillers' grains, etc. Both categories of fertilizers are slow-release fertilizers, relatively complete in nutrients, and long-lasting in fertilizer effect. Before use they must be fermented and decomposed before application.
(2) Inorganic fertilizers. These are fertilizers rich in mineral nutrient elements made by chemical synthesis or processed from natural ores. For example, nitrogen fertilizers include urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate, etc. Phosphate fertilizers include superphosphate, phosphate rock powder, etc. Potassium fertilizers include potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, etc. Chemical fertilizers have quick fertilizer effects, but their nutrients are simple; their fertilizer nature is strong, but not lasting. Except for phosphate fertilizer, general chemical fertilizers are used as topdressing.

27. How to make fertilizer yourself？
In daily life, many waste materials can be used to make fertilizer yourself.
(1) Soaking liquid fertilizer. Use a small vat (or small jar) to put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells, and moldy foods (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder*), etc., add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the supernatant liquid and dilute it with water before application. Alternatively, the above waste materials can be mixed with some old culture soil, add some water, put into a large plastic bag, tie tightly, leave for a period of time, and use after fermentation.
(2) Waste composting. Choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60 cm-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste, and crushed bones into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to pile it in autumn and winter. After spring warming, when it is decomposed and has no foul odor, it can be mixed into culture soil as base fertilizer; it can also be sifted while wet through a 4 mm sieve and rubbed into granules, with the fine part used as topdressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer.

A Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

28．How to avoid and reduce the odor produced when composting and applying fertilizer？
When composting accumulated fertilizer, an unpleasant odor is often given off, polluting the environment. It is very unsanitary and unpleasant. Some tips for avoiding or reducing the odor produced during composting are briefly introduced below.
(1) Put a few pieces of orange peel (dried or fresh) into the composting container to reduce the odor. This is because orange peel contains a large amount of essential oil, which continuously volatilizes fragrance during the fermentation process of the fertilizer, which can reduce the odor. When the effect of the orange peel decreases, add a few more new pieces of orange peel. After fermentation, orange peel is also a good fertilizer and can increase fertilizer efficiency.
(2) Use a pickle jar for composting. Put household non-staple food waste, such as rotten eggs, animal viscera, spoiled milk, soybean milk, etc., into the pickle jar, add an appropriate amount of clear water, be careful to fill the water groove at the mouth of the jar, then add some insecticidal medicine, and put on the lid to prevent the odor from escaping. In summer, it can decompose in about 2-3 months. When using, take the supernatant liquid, dilute it with water 10-20 times, and add a little pesticide such as trichlorfon to the liquid fertilizer to prevent maggots. According to some materials, adding an appropriate amount of 500-600 times diluted rice vinegar before applying the liquid fertilizer can alleviate the odor of the liquid fertilizer.

29.How to brew alum fertilizer water？

Flower growers in Yanling, Henan, use "alum fertilizer water" to irrigate flowers that prefer acidic soil, with good results. The commonly used preparation method is: water 20 kg-25 kg, cake fertilizer or hoof pieces 1 kg-1.5 kg, ferrous sulfate (black alum) 250 g-300 g. Put the above materials together into a vat, place in the sun to expose and ferment for about 1 month, then take the supernatant liquid, dilute it with water, and use it. Soil watered with this water shows a slightly acidic reaction, with a pH value of about 5.8-6.7.

A Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)

Recommended reading:A Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)

           A Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Three)