A Detailed Guide to Carving and Shaping Zhangzhou Narcissus Bulbs
Special shapes can be potted using the inverted and reversed methods. Inverted means the leaf body is at the bottom and the roots face upward, such as the "jade elephant carrying treasure" shape, which mainly highlights the bulb and lateral bulbs to make the form more realistic; reversed means placing it face down, that is, the wound facing downward and the uninjured side of the bulb facing upward, such as the "crab walking sideways" type, where the complete and round bulb surface faces up, symbolizing the crab's "iron armor," while the flower scapes and leaves curl and grow sideways in all directions, closely resembling crab claws.
After carving, pot management of narcissus is especially important. Through carving, the leaves, flower scape stalks and bulbs of the narcissus are all cut and wounded; the wounds have high evaporation and are prone to infection, and with new roots growing, warmth must be maintained. At first, place it in a cool place for two or three days and spray with clean water frequently. After the wounds gradually heal and new roots grow, move it to a sunny place so it can carry out full photosynthesis, turn the leaves green and avoid leggy growth, which helps fix the shape.
Zhangzhou Narcissus Bulb Carving and Shaping Techniques
We introduce Zhangzhou's unique narcissus carving techniques in the order of carving:
1. Selection of the bulb:
(1) Choose the bulb according to a set shape: This means we decide on a certain shape and then go to select the narcissus bulb. This generally refers to masters who have already mastered the art of narcissus carving. To take part in a competition or hold an exhibition, a specific shape is needed, so you must select bulbs with the basic form in order to carve and shape a satisfactory work. For example, if you have decided to create a festive flower basket, you must choose a bulb with symmetrical offset buds, otherwise where will the basket handle come from later? If you want to create mandarin ducks playing in water, you must select one with a small spherical offset bud of appropriate size. Only after carving can you cultivate a matching body shape. For the peach and plum vying for spring shape, you must choose a large and a small bulb growing together on a single basal plate, the large one being the peach and the small one the plum. Without these basic forms, no matter how good the carving technique, it is difficult to create a lifelike work. To borrow an old saying, this is "a clever housewife cannot cook a meal without rice." The basic principle is: imagine the basic outline of the work you want to create, and let the bulb or bulb structure basically match it. It is like a painter painting, always setting the outline with the first few strokes, then elaborating the details. The later carving and shaping is the elaboration of details; only by combining the two can the outline be accurate and the details rich. Only then can a work perfectly express the artistic conception the creator wants to convey, and only then can it be a work with life.
(2) Decide the shape by looking at the bulb: This is what you encounter when viewing at home. You may only have a few narcissus bulbs sent by relatives or friends from afar, or a small number of bulbs you picked up while casually browsing the flower market. At this time you cannot create whatever you want at will. However, the principle is still the same: look at the narcissus bulb in your hand and imagine what its basic outline resembles. In fact, narcissus carving is just this magical, similar to painting traditional Chinese painting, where what matters is the artistic conception. Whether figures or landscapes, it does not seek realistic likeness; spiritual likeness is more important. Everything is between likeness and unlikeness, and this is where the charm of narcissus carving art lies. A specific example of bulb selection is: symmetrical bulb offset buds are suitable for carving and shaping into flower baskets, dragon heads, two snakes emerging from water, and so on. Asymmetrical ones can imitate birds and beasts or landscape bonsai. Use your imagination and you will find a suitable shape. If you really cannot think of one, just carve a crab-claw narcissus, place it naturally, and put it in a suitable pot, and it is still a very good natural scene.
2. Narcissus carving tools:
As the saying goes, "To do a good job, one must first sharpen one's tools." A good narcissus carving knife makes the process of carving narcissus effortless. Tools used for carving narcissus vary from place to place, but they are largely the same. The traditional carving knives of Zhangzhou, Fujian, can generally be divided into:
(1) Main cutting knife: The knife is 18 cm long, of which the handle is 10 cm and the blade is 8 cm. The blade shape is an elongated triangle, with a maximum width of 1.5 cm, a straight edge, and a spine 3 mm thick. It is used for the first cut to open the top. It is the most basic narcissus carving knife, and some masters can complete all carving tasks with just this one knife.
(2) Oblique carving knife: It is the main tool used together with the traditional carving knife for fine and detailed carving. It is used for peeling, paring, scraping, scooping and shaping, and other processes.
(3) Right-angle scooping knife: Generally made by the carver himself, sharpened at the end of a 2~3 mm steel plate and bent into a right angle. It is used for digging holes and hollowing out cavities, and is extremely convenient for carving shapes such as teapots and gourds.
(4) Small scissors: The most ideal are medical stainless steel small scissors. The blades are slender; have one pointed pair and one curved pair. They are used for trimming leaves and scales, and are used together with carving. During hydroponic growing, they are used to cut away moldy scales, leaves, roots, flower centers, and so on.
(5) Tweezers: One pointed-tip and one curved-tip, ideally medical stainless steel small tweezers. They are used to clear away carving fragments, tidy leaves, flower stalks and flower centers, and assist with deep carving, covering with cotton, and cleaning dirt.
3. Basic steps of narcissus carving:
(1) Clean the bulb: Pull off the root-protecting mud, use a bamboo strip to remove dead roots and rotting impurities, being careful not to injure the bulb, and peel off the brown, dried outer bulb skin so it is ready for cutting.
(2) Cut the scales: Formerly called opening the top, this means vertically cutting away about half of the bulb to expose the bulb buds. The method is to use the cutting knife to make a curved horizontal line 1 cm above the basal plate, then along this line use the carving knife to peel away the scales layer by layer into the bulb until all the buds are exposed. The technique is: when the knife cuts in, press the index finger on the scale and follow along; when withdrawing, bring the scale out with it. The bulb only needs to be cut to half.
(3) Clear the gaps between scales: To make it easier to carve the leaves and flower stalks, carve away the scales sandwiched between the buds.
(4) Peel off the bracts: Starting from the end of the bud, pry open the bract, then peel it downward along toward the base.
(5) Pare the leaf edges: According to the shaping requirements, determine the position and width of the leaf cut. First make a cut at the leaf tip, then peel along the leaf edge toward the base. Peeling the leaf must be done carefully; never damage the flower bud.
(6) Carve the flower stalk: According to the shaping needs, determine the amount and direction of the stalk to be cut, and carve from the stalk end toward the base. If it needs to be cut down to the bulb, you can also use the pointed triangular knife to pierce through the bulb along the thin skin of the flower stalk. If carving in November~December, the flower stalk has not yet grown and it is difficult to cut accurately; you may cut off the tender small flower stalk, so the bulb can be soaked in water until it sprouts and the flower stalk swells a bit before carving.
(7) Carve the lateral buds: Lateral buds are mostly on both sides of the mother bulb; some have flowers, some do not. According to the planned shape, either do not carve them and keep them as the handle of a flower basket or a bird's head, or slightly trim them to keep as the tail of a rooster or goldfish, or carve them as above so they grow into crab-leg shapes and are shaped into other forms.
(8) Trim the cut surfaces: Trim all cuts, both for neatness and beauty, and to prevent fragments and residue from rotting and contaminating the bulb.
(9) Special knife techniques:
1. Vertical carving: Use the carving knife to cut vertically straight down from the bulb. This is generally used in large-scale hydroponic growing. Such carving only releases the bulb's constraint on the buds, promoting growth and making the plant dwarf and sturdy. When it first grows, it looks a bit like a penguin, hence the name "penguin-head narcissus."
2. Oblique carving: The basic purpose of oblique carving is similar to that of "penguin-head narcissus," and it is also a carving method used in large-scale hydroponic growing or by growers who do not want to spend much labor. The method is to make one cut on each of two sides of the bulb from the top toward the two sides, allowing the flower buds to grow out smoothly.
3. Cup hollowing: Remove the upper half of the narcissus bulb, keep the flower buds, retain the two outer layers of scales, and hollow out the inner scales to form a cup shape. The flower buds are carved along the leaf edges and flower stalks as above, and when grown they look like a silver cup producing flowers.
4. Hollowing out: To preserve the basic bulb shape, the outside of the bulb is not damaged; special tools are used to hollow out the inner scales and release the flower buds, letting the flowers accompany the bulb on either side. This type of knife technique is needed for "peach and plum vying for spring," "gourd revealing auspiciousness," and so on.
4. Hydroponic growing of carved narcissus:
In the narcissus carving process there is a saying, "three parts carving, seven parts growing," which shows that growing is more important than carving. The hydroponic growing of narcissus, also called soaking and growing, is described below:
(1) Soaking and washing: After the narcissus bulb is carved and slightly air-dried, it can be placed in water to soak. However, sometimes for uniform blooming time, and because of a shortage of labor, carved narcissus may also be left aside for a few days and then put into water together, because once a narcissus enters water, the flowering process cannot be stopped. If you want uniform blooming, they must be put into water at the same time. The water for soaking is best if it is natural spring water; for small-scale hydroponic growing in city life, drinkable mineral water can be used. Tap water contains bleaching powder, so it should be left standing for a day before use. (If dwarfing treatment is to be done, it is also done at this time: soak "narcissus dwarfing and strengthening agent" into a solution according to the instructions and use it as the soaking liquid for narcissus; dwarfing agent dealers generally include it.) After carving, the narcissus bulb is soaked and rinsed for two days. When soaking, place the carved side of the bulb downward into the water, and gently press the bulb with a heavy object to prevent it from floating. After soaking for one day, remove the bulb and wash off the mucus one by one. When washing, you can hold the bulb in your hand and gently beat the water with the carved side down to rinse it, or rinse with tap water at appropriate pressure until the mucus is washed clean, and at the same time remove all remaining mud, residual roots and dead skin from the bulb; then put the bulb into clean water to soak again. On the second day of soaking, the bulb still exudes mucus, so this method must be used again to wash it clean. The purpose of soaking and washing is to prevent the rotting bulb from discoloring. The transparent mucus in the narcissus bulb contains certain nutrients and is easily invaded by fungi and then rots; if the mucus is not washed clean, it will also stick to the carved bulb, and sun exposure and fungal invasion will turn the pure white bulb brown and then black.
After the bulb is taken out, it is best to spray and wash it once more with clean water, and touch the wounded area with your fingers (because the mucus is transparent and hard to notice); if there is still mucus, wash it clean with your hands. After the washed bulb has been soaked in water for 2 days, it has absorbed enough water and also stimulated the root points to sprout. In order to protect the roots of the bulb from turning yellow in the sun, make them grow roots quickly, and induce root development, cotton (absorbent cotton, commonly called medicinal cotton) or gauze (absorbent gauze) should be laid over the basal plate below the cut on the bulb; and the cotton or gauze should hang into the water to absorb water for the roots and keep them warm.
For some shapes such as "jade elephant carrying treasure," the bulb needs to be grown upside down in water, and the cotton should cover the depression of the basal plate on top, wrapping the roots and going down into the water; if the shape mainly displays the bulb, such as "peach and plum vying for spring," then to keep the bulb white, its upper surface can be covered with thin cotton or gauze to avoid turning yellow in the sun.
(2) Potting: After the narcissus bulb is carved, soaked, washed and wrapped in cotton, it must be potted for hydroponic growing. If a large number are carved, they can first be grown in coarse earthenware basins, or in large pots or square trays with a larger area. Nowadays many commercial hydroponic growers use 10 cm wide wooden boards nailed into square frames, covered with plastic film, which can be made large or small as needed, and when the narcissus is about to bloom they move it to fine pots for display or sale. If the number is small, they can be put directly into fine pots for hydroponic growing. The choice of pot should harmonize with the shape and meet the requirement of "a suitable matching pot." For example, the "flower basket" shape should use a round or flower-pot-shaped narcissus pot; "two phoenixes facing the sun" is better with a square or oval one; if the main attraction is the root system, then a transparent tall cylinder should be used or it should lean on a rockery. In short, the choice of pot should harmonize with the shape.
(3) Placement: Generally, narcissus bulbs are potted mainly in the upright-facing and vertical positions. The so-called "upright-facing" is when the wounded side faces upward and the roots are placed facing forward; "vertical" is when the wounded side faces forward and the roots face down, which is also "normal placement." Upright-facing is suitable for the "crab-claw narcissus" type; vertical is suitable for "jade pot spring colors" and similar types.
For special shapes, the "inverted" and "reversed" potting methods can be used. "Inverted" means the leaf body is at the bottom, the roots face down, and the roots face upward, such as the "jade elephant carrying treasure" shape, which mainly highlights the bulb and lateral bulbs and uses the inverted form for realism. "Reversed" means "face-down placement," with the wound facing down and the uninjured side of the bulb facing upward, such as the "crab walking sideways" type, where the complete and round bulb surface faces up, symbolizing the crab's "iron armor," while the flower scapes and leaves curl and grow sideways in all directions, closely resembling crab claws.
However, whenever the wound faces downward and is immersed in water, care should be taken to prevent the flower scape and bulb from rotting. The method is to prop the bulb up above the water surface, letting only the roots hang down to absorb water. If necessary, the bulb can also be disinfected with chemicals after carving. Most narcissus grown in pots in the upright-facing and downward positions do not change position from beginning to end. But some shapes need to be turned and changed during growing, such as the elephant type and crab type. Generally they are first grown upright-facing in water for 5-7 days, until the buds curl upward freely, which can also avoid the buds (especially the flower buds) being prone to rot when they enter water early after the first carving.
After carving, pot management of narcissus is very important. Because the bulb has been carved, the leaves, flower scape stalks and bulb are all cut and wounded; the wounds have high evaporation and are prone to infection, and with new roots growing, warmth must be maintained. At first, place it in a cool place for 2-3 days, spray the plant with clean water frequently, and after the wounds gradually heal and new roots grow, move it to a sunny place for full photosynthesis, so the leaves turn green and do not grow leggy, which helps fix the shape.
(4) Water management: Every day pour out all the water and replace it with fresh water, soaking up to just below the wound. Under southern climate conditions, flowers for Spring Festival generally take about 30 days from carving and soaking to blooming. In the first two weeks, change the water once a day and spray with clean water 1-2 times; in the last two weeks, change the water once every 2 days. When the temperature is relatively high, add one more water change and spray water 1~2 times.
(5) Light: Narcissus growth needs sufficient light, and under appropriate light it grows sturdy and upright. However, in the early stage of hydroponic growing, because the bulb buds have just been exposed and are very tender, they cannot withstand strong direct sunlight, so in the early potting stage they should be cared for in a shaded place for a few days. Only after the leaves turn green should they slowly receive full-day sunlight. For home hydroponic growing, a south-facing window is best. Large-scale hydroponic growing can be cared for in a greenhouse.
(6) Temperature: When growing in the south, be careful of excessively high temperatures; in the north it is just the opposite. Although narcissus grows at temperatures between 4-25°C, temperatures between 10~18°C are most suitable for narcissus growth. Appropriately low temperatures can prolong the blooming period. Narcissus is a cold-natured plant and is not afraid of cold, but after carving the bulb is damaged by half or even more than half, lacks nutrition, and the callus tissue is fragile, so it cannot withstand freezing injury. In the north, be careful of freezing in the open air. The most suitable temperature is 10-18°C.
(7) Extending the blooming period: Narcissus, from first opening to full bloom to fading, generally can last 12-15 days at the longer end. If care is poor and the temperature is high, the blooming period is even shorter. A short blooming period lowers the ornamental value. How can the blooming period be extended and the flowers made more luxuriant? "Flower Mirror" and "Extensive Collected Fragrant Flora" record this: "I (Yu Ruoying) every year beg three or four stems from friends and place them at my study head, and the fragrance lasts ten days," and also, "Gardeners near the river in Hangzhou plant them into groves; because the soil is close to salt brine, the flowers are luxuriant," and "For placing in a vase, it is best to grow them in salt water." The specific method is: before the flower buds split open, put a little table salt in the flower pot, and the blooming period can be extended by 2-3 days.
5. Shaping of carved narcissus:
Carving narcissus is in fact accomplished by using natural forces plus a small amount of artificial embellishment. These are explained separately below:
(1) Natural forces: The reason narcissus carving art is so magical is that in excellent finished works, the carver follows a predetermined conception and uses natural forces, guiding them according to the situation, so that almost no trace of artificial carving can be seen. Everything is like nature itself, with very little artificial forcing. Excellent narcissus artistic shaping should use natural forces as much as possible. The so-called natural forces are, first, using the unbalanced growth after cutting to bend and shorten the flower stalks and leaves for shaping. The second is the characteristic of the above-ground part of the plant growing upward away from the ground. The third is the downward growth characteristic of the roots. Add to these the different effects of light intensity on roots, stems and leaves, and by using them appropriately, you can achieve what you want. The roles of these forces in narcissus artistic shaping are briefly described below:
1. In the basic steps of narcissus carving in section three, "paring the leaf edges" means cutting one side of the leaf edge so that it is injured and its growth stalls, while the other side grows normally; the unbalanced growth of the two sides makes the leaf curl. Similarly, "carving the flower stalk" has the effect of bending and shortening the flower stalk. Through appropriate deep or shallow cuts, you can control the degree of bending and the length of flowers and leaves, and can reasonably arrange the positions of flowers and leaves. Master the measure, and you can be like a painter with a brush, splashing ink and wielding the brush, with light and shade in harmony.
2. The geotropism of plant growth is also a force that can be used in narcissus shaping. For arranging relatively large numbers of flowers and leaves, geotropism is quite efficient. The method of placement has already been discussed above. By placing the bulb in different positions, whether upright-facing, face-down, standing, or slanting, you can very conveniently arrange the direction of all flowers and leaves. For example, the beautiful tails of a peacock or rooster, and the handle of a flower basket, all require appropriate placement to achieve the desired result.
3. The gravitropism of roots can also be induced to make them bend and twist, clinging to a water-and-stone bonsai like a mountain stream waterfall, remarkably true to life.
4. The effect of light: stronger light can dwarf the plant and make it sturdy and upright. Appropriate shading makes narcissus roots dense and snow-white. For works that appreciate the roots, planting the bulb in rice husk and charcoal ash can grow roots as white as snow.
(2) Artificial embellishment:
Although narcissus carving art values natural beauty, appropriate artificial embellishment can play the role of adding the finishing touch. A flower basket handle cannot become a flower basket without being tied, and a goldfish cannot become a goldfish without dotting the eyes. Using small accessories as the eyes, head crowns and clothing of figurative works to beautify them is also indispensable. Commonly used items include buttons, pins, head ornaments, and so on. You can also make your own. Use your imagination and make use of all usable small accessories. The principle is: as long as it enhances the work, use it boldly, and try to avoid gilding the lily.
6. Classification of narcissus artistic carving works:
(1) Single-bulb narcissus: The work is carved and shaped from a single narcissus bulb; it can only be tied and bound, not joined or combined with other bulbs. Generally birds and beasts can be carved from a single bulb, such as "a rooster crowing," "peacock spreading its tail," and so on.
(2) Multi-bulb combination: Generally several narcissus bulbs are each carved into shape and then combined, such as "jade pot producing moisture," composed of one teapot and several teacups, and "mandarin ducks playing in water," composed of two water birds of matching body shape.
(3) Combined with bonsai: Using "crab-claw narcissus" as the basic shape, after certain changes in placement position and matching with water-and-stone bonsai or ornamental stones, it becomes a very good narcissus bonsai.
(4) Scene composition: Dozens or even hundreds of bulbs of different varieties, carved and grown to have uniform flower shapes, are fixed one by one onto a pre-designed pattern frame and can be assembled into various large artistic shapes, such as "narcissus tower," "galloping horse," "green dragon playing with a pearl," and so on. This method is novel in shape, strongly three-dimensional, magnificent, and full of fragrance, suitable for flower exhibitions and public venue displays. The basic skeleton is steel, wrapped on the outside with water-absorbing material; the narcissus roots fixed on it can grow down into it and can bloom very well.
Limited by space and the author's level, and because narcissus carving is an art, easy to enter but difficult to master, in Zhangzhou over several decades truly qualified carvers are also few and far between. This short article inevitably omits much and covers little; it is only hoped that it may serve to offer a brick to attract jade, to exchange views with the many lovers of narcissus carving art, to make progress together, and to pass on Zhangzhou narcissus carving art.
How to carve narcissus bulbs: Zhangzhou narcissus bulb carving and shaping techniques
Narcissus is a bulbous flower. The bulb has already stored a large amount of nutrients and completed flower bud differentiation. Grown in water at the right time and meeting certain environmental conditions, it can bloom in a pot. The purpose of narcissus carving and shaping is to use knife cuts or other means to make the narcissus leaves and flowers dwarf, bend, be directed and take shape, with roots growing vertically or horizontally, and the bulb or lateral bulbs cared for and fixed according to the shaping requirements. Next, taking Zhangzhou narcissus as an example, the editor will introduce the unique carving techniques of narcissus.
1. Selection of the bulb：
(1) Choose the bulb according to a set shape: This means we decide on a certain shape and then go to select the narcissus bulb. This generally refers to masters who have already mastered the art of narcissus carving. To take part in a competition or hold an exhibition, a specific shape is needed, so you must select bulbs with the basic form in order to carve and shape a satisfactory work. For example, if you have decided to create a festive flower basket, you must choose a bulb with symmetrical offset buds, otherwise where will the basket handle come from later? If you want to create mandarin ducks playing in water, you must select one with a small spherical offset bud of appropriate size. Only after carving can you cultivate a matching body shape. For the peach and plum vying for spring shape, you must choose a large and a small bulb growing together on a single basal plate, the large one being the peach and the small one the plum. Without these basic forms, no matter how good the carving technique, it is difficult to create a lifelike work. To borrow an old saying, this is "a clever housewife cannot cook a meal without rice." The basic principle is: imagine the basic outline of the work you want to create, and let the bulb or bulb structure basically match it. It is like a painter painting, always setting the outline with the first few strokes, then elaborating the details. The later carving and shaping is the elaboration of details; only by combining the two can the outline be accurate and the details rich. Only then can a work perfectly express the artistic conception the creator wants to convey, and only then can it be a work with life.
(2) Decide the shape by looking at the bulb: This is what you encounter when viewing at home. You may only have a few narcissus bulbs sent by relatives or friends from afar, or a small number of bulbs you picked up while casually browsing the flower market. At this time you cannot create whatever you want at will. However, the principle is still the same: look at the narcissus bulb in your hand and imagine what its basic outline resembles. In fact, narcissus carving is just this magical, similar to painting traditional Chinese painting, where what matters is the artistic conception. Whether figures or landscapes, it does not seek realistic likeness; spiritual likeness is more important. Everything is between likeness and unlikeness, and this is where the charm of narcissus carving art lies. A specific example of bulb selection is: symmetrical bulb offset buds are suitable for carving and shaping into flower baskets, dragon heads, two snakes emerging from water, and so on. Asymmetrical ones can imitate birds and beasts or landscape bonsai. Use your imagination and you will find a suitable shape. If you really cannot think of one, just carve a crab-claw narcissus, place it naturally, and put it in a suitable pot, and it is still a very good natural scene.
2. Narcissus carving tools:
As the saying goes, "To do a good job, one must first sharpen one's tools." A good narcissus carving knife makes the process of carving narcissus effortless. Tools used for carving narcissus vary from place to place, but they are largely the same. The traditional carving knives of Zhangzhou, Fujian, can generally be divided into:
(1) Main cutting knife: The knife is 18 cm long, of which the handle is 10 cm and the blade is 8 cm. The blade shape is an elongated triangle, with a maximum width of 1.5 cm, a straight edge, and a spine 3 mm thick. It is used for the first cut to open the top. It is the most basic narcissus carving knife, and some masters can complete all carving tasks with just this one knife.
(2) Oblique carving knife: It is the main tool used together with the traditional carving knife for fine and detailed carving. It is used for peeling, paring, scraping, scooping and shaping, and other processes.
(3) Right-angle scooping knife: Generally made by the carver himself, sharpened at the end of a 2~3 mm steel plate and bent into a right angle. It is used for digging holes and hollowing out cavities, and is extremely convenient for carving shapes such as teapots and gourds.
(4) Small scissors: The most ideal are medical stainless steel small scissors. The blades are slender; have one pointed pair and one curved pair. They are used for trimming leaves and scales, and are used together with carving. During hydroponic growing, they are used to cut away moldy scales, leaves, roots, flower centers, and so on.
(5) Tweezers: One pointed-tip and one curved-tip, ideally medical stainless steel small tweezers. They are used to clear away carving fragments, tidy leaves, flower stalks and flower centers, and assist with deep carving, covering with cotton, and cleaning dirt.
3. Basic steps of narcissus carving:
(1) Clean the bulb: Pull off the root-protecting mud, use a bamboo strip to remove dead roots and rotting impurities, being careful not to injure the bulb, and peel off the brown, dried outer bulb skin so it is ready for cutting.
(2) Cut the scales: Formerly called opening the top, this means vertically cutting away about half of the bulb to expose the bulb buds. The method is to use the cutting knife to make a curved horizontal line 1 cm above the basal plate, then along this line use the carving knife to peel away the scales layer by layer into the bulb until all the buds are exposed. The technique is: when the knife cuts in, press the index finger on the scale and follow along; when withdrawing, bring the scale out with it. The bulb only needs to be cut to half.
(3) Clear the gaps between scales: To make it easier to carve the leaves and flower stalks, carve away the scales sandwiched between the buds.
(4) Peel off the bracts: Starting from the end of the bud, pry open the bract, then peel it downward along toward the base.
(5) Pare the leaf edges: According to the shaping requirements, determine the position and width of the leaf cut. First make a cut at the leaf tip, then peel along the leaf edge toward the base. Peeling the leaf must be done carefully; never damage the flower bud.
(6) Carve the flower stalk: According to the shaping needs, determine the amount and direction of the stalk to be cut, and carve from the stalk end toward the base. If it needs to be cut down to the bulb, you can also use the pointed triangular knife to pierce through the bulb along the thin skin of the flower stalk. If carving in November~December, the flower stalk has not yet grown and it is difficult to cut accurately; you may cut off the tender small flower stalk, so the bulb can be soaked in water until it sprouts and the flower stalk swells a bit before carving.
(7) Carve the lateral buds: Lateral buds are mostly on both sides of the mother bulb; some have flowers, some do not. According to the planned shape, either do not carve them and keep them as the handle of a flower basket or a bird's head, or slightly trim them to keep as the tail of a rooster or goldfish, or carve them as above so they grow into crab-leg shapes and are shaped into other forms.
(8) Trim the cut surfaces: Trim all cuts, both for neatness and beauty, and to prevent fragments and residue from rotting and contaminating the bulb.
(9) Special knife techniques:
1. Vertical carving: Use the carving knife to cut vertically straight down from the bulb. This is generally used in large-scale hydroponic growing. Such carving only releases the bulb's constraint on the buds, promoting growth and making the plant dwarf and sturdy. When it first grows, it looks a bit like a penguin, hence the name "penguin-head narcissus."
2. Oblique carving: The basic purpose of oblique carving is similar to that of "penguin-head narcissus," and it is also a carving method used in large-scale hydroponic growing or by growers who do not want to spend much labor. The method is to make one cut on each of two sides of the bulb from the top toward the two sides, allowing the flower buds to grow out smoothly.
3. Cup hollowing: Remove the upper half of the narcissus bulb, keep the flower buds, retain the two outer layers of scales, and hollow out the inner scales to form a cup shape. The flower buds are carved along the leaf edges and flower stalks as above, and when grown they look like a silver cup producing flowers.
4. Hollowing out: To preserve the basic bulb shape, the outside of the bulb is not damaged; special tools are used to hollow out the inner scales and release the flower buds, letting the flowers accompany the bulb on either side. This type of knife technique is needed for "peach and plum vying for spring," "gourd revealing auspiciousness," and so on.
4. Hydroponic growing of carved narcissus:
In the narcissus carving process there is a saying, "three parts carving, seven parts growing," which shows that growing is more important than carving. The hydroponic growing of narcissus, also called soaking and growing, is described below:
(1) Soaking and washing: After the narcissus bulb is carved and slightly air-dried, it can be placed in water to soak. However, sometimes for uniform blooming time, and because of a shortage of labor, carved narcissus may also be left aside for a few days and then put into water together, because once a narcissus enters water, the flowering process cannot be stopped. If you want uniform blooming, they must be put into water at the same time. The water for soaking is best if it is natural spring water; for small-scale hydroponic growing in city life, drinkable mineral water can be used. Tap water contains bleaching powder, so it should be left standing for a day before use. (If dwarfing treatment is to be done, it is also done at this time: soak "narcissus dwarfing and strengthening agent" into a solution according to the instructions and use it as the soaking liquid for narcissus; dwarfing agent dealers generally include it.) After carving, the narcissus bulb is soaked and rinsed for two days. When soaking, place the carved side of the bulb downward into the water, and gently press the bulb with a heavy object to prevent it from floating. After soaking for one day, remove the bulb and wash off the mucus one by one. When washing, you can hold the bulb in your hand and gently beat the water with the carved side down to rinse it, or rinse with tap water at appropriate pressure until the mucus is washed clean, and at the same time remove all remaining mud, residual roots and dead skin from the bulb; then put the bulb into clean water to soak again. On the second day of soaking, the bulb still exudes mucus, so this method must be used again to wash it clean. The purpose of soaking and washing is to prevent the rotting bulb from discoloring. The transparent mucus in the narcissus bulb contains certain nutrients and is easily invaded by fungi and then rots; if the mucus is not washed clean, it will also stick to the carved bulb, and sun exposure and fungal invasion will turn the pure white bulb brown and then black.
After the bulb is taken out, it is best to spray and wash it once more with clean water, and touch the wounded area with your fingers (because the mucus is transparent and hard to notice); if there is still mucus, wash it clean with your hands. After the washed bulb has been soaked in water for 2 days, it has absorbed enough water and also stimulated the root points to sprout. In order to protect the roots of the bulb from turning yellow in the sun, make them grow roots quickly, and induce root development, cotton (absorbent cotton, commonly called medicinal cotton) or gauze (absorbent gauze) should be laid over the basal plate below the cut on the bulb; and the cotton or gauze should hang into the water to absorb water for the roots and keep them warm.
For some shapes such as "jade elephant carrying treasure," the bulb needs to be grown upside down in water, and the cotton should cover the depression of the basal plate on top, wrapping the roots and going down into the water; if the shape mainly displays the bulb, such as "peach and plum vying for spring," then to keep the bulb white, its upper surface can be covered with thin cotton or gauze to avoid turning yellow in the sun.
(2) Potting: After the narcissus bulb is carved, soaked, washed and wrapped in cotton, it must be potted for hydroponic growing. If a large number are carved, they can first be grown in coarse earthenware basins, or in large pots or square trays with a larger area. Nowadays many commercial hydroponic growers use 10 cm wide wooden boards nailed into square frames, covered with plastic film, which can be made large or small as needed, and when the narcissus is about to bloom they move it to fine pots for display or sale. If the number is small, they can be put directly into fine pots for hydroponic growing. The choice of pot should harmonize with the shape and meet the requirement of "a suitable matching pot." For example, the "flower basket" shape should use a round or flower-pot-shaped narcissus pot; "two phoenixes facing the sun" is better with a square or oval one; if the main attraction is the root system, then a transparent tall cylinder should be used or it should lean on a rockery. In short, the choice of pot should harmonize with the shape.
(3) Placement: Generally, narcissus bulbs are potted mainly in the upright-facing and vertical positions. The so-called "upright-facing" is when the wounded side faces upward and the roots are placed facing forward; "vertical" is when the wounded side faces forward and the roots face down, which is also "normal placement." Upright-facing is suitable for the "crab-claw narcissus" type; vertical is suitable for "jade pot spring colors" and similar types.
For special shapes, the "inverted" and "reversed" potting methods can be used. "Inverted" means the leaf body is at the bottom, the roots face down, and the roots face upward, such as the "jade elephant carrying treasure" shape, which mainly highlights the bulb and lateral bulbs and uses the inverted form for realism. "Reversed" means "face-down placement," with the wound facing down and the uninjured side of the bulb facing upward, such as the "crab walking sideways" type, where the complete and round bulb surface faces up, symbolizing the crab's "iron armor," while the flower scapes and leaves curl and grow sideways in all directions, closely resembling crab claws.
However, whenever the wound faces downward and is immersed in water, care should be taken to prevent the flower scape and bulb from rotting. The method is to prop the bulb up above the water surface, letting only the roots hang down to absorb water. If necessary, the bulb can also be disinfected with chemicals after carving. Most narcissus grown in pots in the upright-facing and downward positions do not change position from beginning to end. But some shapes need to be turned and changed during growing, such as the elephant type and crab type. Generally they are first grown upright-facing in water for 5-7 days, until the buds curl upward freely, which can also avoid the buds (especially the flower buds) being prone to rot when they enter water early after the first carving.
After carving, pot management of narcissus is very important. Because the bulb has been carved, the leaves, flower scape stalks and bulb are all cut and wounded; the wounds have high evaporation and are prone to infection, and with new roots growing, warmth must be maintained. At first, place it in a cool place for 2-3 days, spray the plant with clean water frequently, and after the wounds gradually heal and new roots grow, move it to a sunny place for full photosynthesis, so the leaves turn green and do not grow leggy, which helps fix the shape.
(4) Water management: Every day pour out all the water and replace it with fresh water, soaking up to just below the wound. Under southern climate conditions, flowers for Spring Festival generally take about 30 days from carving and soaking to blooming. In the first two weeks, change the water once a day and spray with clean water 1-2 times; in the last two weeks, change the water once every 2 days. When the temperature is relatively high, add one more water change and spray water 1~2 times.
(5) Light: Narcissus growth needs sufficient light, and under appropriate light it grows sturdy and upright. However, in the early stage of hydroponic growing, because the bulb buds have just been exposed and are very tender, they cannot withstand strong direct sunlight, so in the early potting stage they should be cared for in a shaded place for a few days. Only after the leaves turn green should they slowly receive full-day sunlight. For home hydroponic growing, a south-facing window is best. Large-scale hydroponic growing can be cared for in a greenhouse.
(6) Temperature: When growing in the south, be careful of excessively high temperatures; in the north it is just the opposite. Although narcissus grows at temperatures between 4-25°C, temperatures between 10~18°C are most suitable for narcissus growth. Appropriately low temperatures can prolong the blooming period. Narcissus is a cold-natured plant and is not afraid of cold, but after carving the bulb is damaged by half or even more than half, lacks nutrition, and the callus tissue is fragile, so it cannot withstand freezing injury. In the north, be careful of freezing in the open air. The most suitable temperature is 10-18°C.
(7) Extending the blooming period: Narcissus, from first opening to full bloom to fading, generally can last 12-15 days at the longer end. If care is poor and the temperature is high, the blooming period is even shorter. A short blooming period lowers the ornamental value. How can the blooming period be extended and the flowers made more luxuriant? "Flower Mirror" and "Extensive Collected Fragrant Flora" record this: "I (Yu Ruoying) every year beg three or four stems from friends and place them at my study head, and the fragrance lasts ten days," and also, "Gardeners near the river in Hangzhou plant them into groves; because the soil is close to salt brine, the flowers are luxuriant," and "For placing in a vase, it is best to grow them in salt water." The specific method is: before the flower buds split open, put a little table salt in the flower pot, and the blooming period can be extended by 2-3 days.
5. Shaping of carved narcissus:
Carving narcissus is in fact accomplished by using natural forces plus a small amount of artificial embellishment. These are explained separately below:
(1) Natural forces: The reason narcissus carving art is so magical is that in excellent finished works, the carver follows a predetermined conception and uses natural forces, guiding them according to the situation, so that almost no trace of artificial carving can be seen. Everything is like nature itself, with very little artificial forcing. Excellent narcissus artistic shaping should use natural forces as much as possible. The so-called natural forces are, first, using the unbalanced growth after cutting to bend and shorten the flower stalks and leaves for shaping. The second is the characteristic of the above-ground part of the plant growing upward away from the ground. The third is the downward growth characteristic of the roots. Add to these the different effects of light intensity on roots, stems and leaves, and by using them appropriately, you can achieve what you want. The roles of these forces in narcissus artistic shaping are briefly described below:
1. In the basic steps of narcissus carving in section three, "paring the leaf edges" means cutting one side of the leaf edge so that it is injured and its growth stalls, while the other side grows normally; the unbalanced growth of the two sides makes the leaf curl. Similarly, "carving the flower stalk" has the effect of bending and shortening the flower stalk. Through appropriate deep or shallow cuts, you can control the degree of bending and the length of flowers and leaves, and can reasonably arrange the positions of flowers and leaves. Master the measure, and you can be like a painter with a brush, splashing ink and wielding the brush, with light and shade in harmony.
2. The geotropism of plant growth is also a force that can be used in narcissus shaping. For arranging relatively large numbers of flowers and leaves, geotropism is quite efficient. The method of placement has already been discussed above. By placing the bulb in different positions, whether upright-facing, face-down, standing, or slanting, you can very conveniently arrange the direction of all flowers and leaves. For example, the beautiful tails of a peacock or rooster, and the handle of a flower basket, all require appropriate placement to achieve the desired result.
3. The gravitropism of roots can also be induced to make them bend and twist, clinging to a water-and-stone bonsai like a mountain stream waterfall, remarkably true to life.
4. The effect of light: stronger light can dwarf the plant and make it sturdy and upright. Appropriate shading makes narcissus roots dense and snow-white. For works that appreciate the roots, planting the bulb in rice husk and charcoal ash can grow roots as white as snow.
(2) Artificial embellishment:
Although narcissus carving art emphasizes natural beauty, appropriate artificial embellishment can add the perfect finishing touch. A flower basket cannot become a flower basket without its handle being tied, and a goldfish cannot become a goldfish without its eyes dotted in. Using small accessories as the eyes, head crowns, and clothing of pictographic works to enhance their beauty is also indispensable. Commonly used items include buttons, pins, hair ornaments, and so on. You can also make your own, giving free rein to your imagination and using any small accessories available. The principle is: as long as it enhances the work, use it boldly, and try to avoid gilding the lily.
Six: Classification of narcissus art carving works:
(1) Single-bulb narcissus: The work is carved and shaped from a single narcissus bulb, and can only be tied or bound, not grafted or combined with other bulbs. Generally, birds and beasts can be carved from a single bulb, such as "A Rooster Crowing" and "Peacock Spreading Its Tail."
(2) Multi-bulb combination: Generally, several narcissus bulbs are each carved into shape and then combined, such as "Jade Teapot Producing Saliva," which consists of one teapot and several teacups, and "Mandarin Ducks Playing in Water," which is composed of two water birds matched in size.
(3) Combined with bonsai: Using "crab claw narcissus" as the basic shape, after certain variations in placement and matching with water-and-stone bonsai and ornamental stones, it becomes an excellent narcissus bonsai.
(4) Assembled scene composition: Dozens or even hundreds of bulbs of different varieties, carved and cultivated to have uniform flower shapes, are fixed one by one onto a pre-designed patterned frame, and can be assembled into various large-scale artistic shapes, such as "Narcissus Tower," "Galloping Horse," and "Green Dragon Playing with a Pearl." This method is novel in shape, strongly three-dimensional, majestic, and richly fragrant, suitable for flower exhibitions and public venue displays. The basic skeleton is steel, wrapped on the outside with water-absorbing material, and the narcissus roots fixed on it can take hold and bloom very well.
Summary: The above is an introduction to narcissus bulb carving techniques. I hope it is helpful to all flower-loving friends.