What should you pay attention to when growing wisteria? Keep these care points in mind
Wisteria is also known as tengluo. It is a large deciduous climber. The flower clusters hang down, densely packed, light purple, fragrant, blooming from April to May. Wisteria is long-lived, with old stems twisting and twining; when it blooms profusely in spring, strings of flower clusters hang from the tree, and it can be twined around pergolas and flower gates in courtyards.
Wisteria likes sunlight, tolerates slight shade, has strong cold resistance, likes moisture, and loves fertilizer, but it can also tolerate drought. It is highly adaptable; when planted in the ground, taking the following measures will let it bloom abundantly with lush leaves and flower continuously year after year.
(1) Wisteria is a deep-rooted plant with few lateral roots, so it should be planted in deep, loose, well-drained soil in a sunny, wind-sheltered spot.
(2) Wisteria has thick branches and lush leaves, with abundant flowers and fruit, so the weight of the plant is very great. Therefore, before planting, a permanent sturdy trellis must be set up, and it should be planted on the south side of the trellis. The spacing between plants should be about 3 m. If rotted manure is applied at the root zone and liquid fertilizer is applied 2-3 times during the growing period, the plant will grow vigorously; it can cover the entire trellis as early as possible, improving the ornamental effect.
(3) Wisteria grows fast and needs pruning every year. Wisteria flower buds mostly form at the base of the branches. If it is allowed to grow naturally, after the leaf buds on the upper part of the branches sprout, many water sprouts will grow, consuming a large amount of nutrients and preventing the flower buds from blooming normally. Every spring, the lateral branches should be cut back, and excessive branches and diseased or weak branches should be pruned away to promote flower bud formation. New shoots should be guided manually and the vines tied separately to the trellis, allowed to distribute evenly along it and climb along the frame. After flowering, if seeds are not needed, the spent flower clusters should be cut off in time.
(4) Wisteria is often attacked by pests such as aphids, red spiders, bean hawkmoths, yellow tussock moths, wood leopard moths, and scarab beetles, so timely control should be carried out.
Choose the right location
If you want to grow flowers well, you first need to know what flowers are most suitable for your home environment.
1. South balcony with full sun:
A south balcony with plenty of light is most suitable for flowers that like direct sunlight, meaning the more sun they get, the better they grow. For example, moss rose, blue plumbago, petunia, and orange jasmine.
2. East balcony with half-day sun:
An east-facing balcony only gets sun in the morning, and by noon the sun is gone, so you can grow flowers that are short-day or slightly shade-tolerant. For example, azaleas, camellias, and Christmas cactus.
3. West balcony with half-day sun:
A west balcony only gets sun in the afternoon, and in hot summer it is also prone to scorching. Therefore, you can grow some climbing plants on a west balcony, which not only provide shade but also coolness. For example, wisteria, morning glory, and cypress vine.
4. North balcony, living rooms with good indoor diffused light, etc.:
A north balcony rarely sees the sun, so just grow some shade-tolerant flowers. For example, asparagus fern, Swiss cheese plant, and lucky bamboo.
How to tell if a plant is short of water
If you want your home flowers to grow well, watering is key. How to tell whether your home flowers should be watered is also a very important aspect.
1. Visual inspection
The editor of Huinong Network thinks the simplest method is visual inspection. Look at the color of the potting soil with your eyes: if it is grayish-white, it is time to water; if the soil is dark brown, it basically means the potting soil is still moist and does not need watering for the time being.
2. Lifting the pot
There is also a very simple way to judge: lifting the pot. Lift the flower pot; if it feels much lighter, then it should be watered.
Add something to the water to make flowers grow well
If you want flowers to grow better, just watering with plain water definitely will not do. Add something when watering flowers to supplement some nutrients, so the flowers grow better!
1. Add a little rice-washing water
The editor of Huinong Network thinks the simplest is to add a little rice-washing water. Put the water left over from washing rice into a plastic bottle, then leave it in the sun for a period, open the lid every 3-5 days to let it breathe, and after it is fully fermented, just dilute it with water at 1:20 and water the flowers.
2. Add a little fish intestine water
Fish intestines are very rich in phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Making fish intestines into fertilizer provides very rich nutrition for flowers that bloom abundantly and for a long time, such as Chinese roses and bougainvillea. Put the bought fish intestines into a plastic bottle, add some water, and leave it in the sun to ferment; it can be used in about 2-3 months.
Add something to the bottom of the pot so flowers do not rot their roots
Sometimes, flowers at home die for no apparent reason because the roots have rotted. So when repotting, add something to the bottom of the pot, and the flowers will not rot their roots.
1. Line the bottom of the pot with loofah sponge
The loofah fibers on a loofah sponge have very large gaps. Placed at the bottom of a flower pot, they provide excellent water and air permeability, so flowers absolutely will not rot their roots! In addition, loofah sponge can also be used for raising seedlings, and the effect is also very good!
2. Line the bottom of the pot with broken bricks and tiles
If you want flowers not to rot their roots, you can also put some broken bricks and tiles at the bottom of the pot. Pick up a brick outside, bring it home and break it into small pieces, then soak them in hot water and leave them in the sun to dry. After they are dry, they can be used to line the bottom of the pot.
Pruning is very important
If you want flowers to grow well, pruning is essential. Whether it is pruning spent flowers after blooming or cutting off some weak branches and diseased branches on the stems, it can prevent the flowers from consuming too many nutrients, thereby making the plant grow more robust.
1. Prune spent flowers
2. Prune diseased branches, weak branches, and water sprouts
Pay attention to pests and diseases
When growing flowers, you must pay attention to the condition of the leaves and flowers. If symptoms such as black spots or white powder are found on the leaves, it can basically be concluded that it is pests or diseases. At this time, you can make some insecticide yourself, such as garlic water or chili water, or sprinkle mosquito coil ash on the surface of the flower pot; all of these can kill insects.
Make your own small potted plants
Actually, besides growing flowers, many vegetables and fruits can also be grown into small potted plants.
1. Vegetable potted plants
Whether it is carrot, Chinese cabbage, onion, or sweet potato and potato, all can be made into small potted plants. Put the vegetable in a bottle with water, and within a week it will sprout and grow.
2. Fruit potted plants
The passion fruit, fig, lemon, peach, and so on that we usually eat can all be grown in our own homes!
3. Potted plants from seeds picked in the wild
It is autumn now, and flower lovers can also go to the wild to pick up seeds. Whether it is Buddhist pine, goldenrain tree, wild jujube, or chestnut, taking them home and growing a small potted plant is very beautiful!
Make your own flower pots
Besides buying flower pots for growing flowers, many homemade flower pots are actually very beautiful too.
1. Coconut shell flower pot
Saw a coconut open, scoop out the coconut meat inside, then poke a few small drainage holes in the bottom, and it can be used as a flower pot.
2. Cloth bag flower pot
Do not casually throw away leftover burlap bags at home; after filling them with soil, they can be used as flower pots for growing flowers.
3. Metal bucket flower pot
A leaking iron bucket at home, after being repainted with paint, becomes a very beautiful retro flower pot.
4. Basketball as a flower pot
A broken basketball at home, cut open directly from the middle, planted with flowers and hung up, becomes a very beautiful flower pot.
The above are the 20 tips for growing flowers at home compiled by the editor of Huinong Network. Flower lovers, take a quick look; once you learn them, the plants you grow will surely survive well!
Complete guide to home flower planting techniques and key points for growing flowers at home
With their gorgeous beauty, flowers decorate nature especially beautifully and give people enjoyment of beauty. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament, improve health, and also increase scientific knowledge and improve cultural and artistic literacy, and they also have many important economic values. Now let us take a look at the complete guide to home flower planting techniques!
The "three suitable" points for growing flowers at home
1. It is suitable to grow flowers with strong ability to absorb toxic substances: some flowers can absorb certain concentrations of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde, hydrogen chloride, etc. wintersweet can absorb mercury vapor, pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air, snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus, and dianthus can convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide through oxidation into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds through their leaves, and narcissus, four-o'clock, chrysanthemum, and saxifrage can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells. Spider plant, aloe, and snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde.
2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericides: bactericides secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle, and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens, and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and hygienic.
3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions: most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen, and at night carry out respiration, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are just the opposite, releasing carbon dioxide during the day and absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen at night. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in the same room can not only benefit both, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide levels and keep indoor air fresh.
The "three avoid" points for growing flowers at home
1. Avoid growing too many flowers that give off strong fragrance and pungent odors: orchids, roses, Chinese roses, lilies, night-blooming jasmine, and so on can all give off rich fragrance. One pot in a room fills it with fragrance, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the scent is too strong, it will excite people's nerves, especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, causing insomnia. The gas given off by poinsettia and lucky bamboo is not good for people, and the microparticles given off by tulips and hydrangea can cause skin allergies and itching after long contact.
2. Avoid placing too many: at night most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people, while bedrooms are mostly closed at night and the air does not circulate enough with the outside. If too many flowers are placed indoors, it will reduce the indoor oxygen concentration at night and affect the quality of sleep, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.
3. Avoid placing toxic flowers indoors: for example, oleander, whose stems, leaves, and even flowers are toxic in spring, summer, and autumn; the milky sap it secretes contains a kind of oleandrin, and accidental ingestion can cause poisoning. The bulb of narcissus contains lycorine toxin; if a child accidentally eats it, it can cause symptoms such as vomiting, and the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and if the sap gets into the eyes, it can harm the eyes. Too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in severe cases cause hair loss.
The "six don'ts" for growing flowers at home
1. Being careless: flowers, like people, are living things and need careful care. Many flower growers lack the due carefulness and diligence toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy and do not like to study flower-growing knowledge, content to remain laymen for a long time, and their management is not methodical. Second, they are physically lazy and unwilling to spend too much time and energy on flowers. After flowers enter the home, they are left aside and neglected, enduring hunger and thirst for a long time and suffering from pests and diseases. In this way, even the best flowers will gradually wither, so lazy people cannot grow flowers well.
2. Loving them too much: contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love flowers too much and their hands itch if they do not fuss with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize without any rules, watering whenever they think of it, causing flowers to die from excessive water or fertilizer. Some casually move flower pots around, moving them to several places a day, making the flowers constantly adapt to the environment and disrupting normal growth patterns. Over time, it would be strange if the flowers were not tormented to death.
3. Chasing fame and profit: some flower enthusiasts believe that growing flowers means growing famous flowers, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and big market profits. Under this mentality, they spare no expense to seek and buy famous flowers and trees everywhere, but the result is often that due to the lack of good maintenance conditions and management skills, the flowers die soon after purchase, which both wastes precious famous flowers and wastes money. This is a misconception. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade varieties, gradually explore the rules and techniques of growing flowers, and after reaching a certain technical level, gradually buy more precious varieties; only then is success more likely.
4. Not distinguishing good from bad: some flower growers are greedy for size and completeness, bringing home whatever variety they see. This not only makes management difficult, but also brings into the home some flowers that are unsuitable for growing, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people come into contact with them. The smell of some flowers affects people's nervous system and can easily cause breathing difficulty or even allergic reactions. In short, growing flowers at home should not be greedy for size and completeness or fail to distinguish good from bad; you should choose varieties with smaller plant shape, beautiful appearance, and no harm to the human body.
5. Constantly changing: some flower growers are restless and have no theme in growing flowers; the flowers at home are changed as quickly as a merry-go-round, which is a great taboo in growing flowers. First, changing varieties too quickly and growing them for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flower plants with beautiful shape and high ornamental value. Second, dabbling in every kind of flower is not conducive to improving one's flower-growing level, and in the end one is still a flower novice. Therefore, only by choosing one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on studying and cultivating them can a flower grower gain real understanding.
6. Not having new ideas: today new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, but most flower growers still stick to traditional maintenance methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of containers, water and fertilizer management, and seedling cultivation, such as soilless culture, odorless flower fertilizer, and various flower containers. As a result, home flower growing is unhygienic, unattractive, and not novel, with relatively large side effects.
Spring care for home potted flowers
1. Propagate good seedlings: Chinese rose, geranium, pomegranate, and winter jasmine can be propagated in spring by taking healthy branches for cuttings. Azaleas and jasmine like acidic soil, so you can cut sturdy new branches 5-10 cm long, remove the lower leaves, and keep 3-4 top leaves for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite, or yellow sand can be used as the medium. The cuttings should be sprayed moderately to maintain a certain humidity, and generally they can root in about 1 month. Orchids, agave, and spider plant can be propagated in early spring by division or by stolons respectively. Spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, garden balsam, scarlet sage, morning glory, and marigold, can be broadcast or sown in spots.
2. Repotting and changing soil: repotting and changing soil is a way to supplement fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally, small pots are repotted once a year, large pots once every 3-4 years, and tall plants need larger pots. If some root systems are too dense or have dead roots or rotten roots, they should be pruned appropriately. After repotting, generally the first watering should be thorough, then the plant should be placed in a cool place, and afterward water when the potting soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, normal watering can resume and the plant can be moved to a sunny place.
3. Pruning and trimming: pruning and trimming should be done according to different plants. Azaleas and winter jasmine should not be pruned too much, while pomegranate and Chinese rose can have dead branches, damaged branches, or overly dense branches cut off entirely in early spring to promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotting to encourage more new branches to sprout. Climbing plants such as ivy, banksia rose, wisteria, and rose can be trained so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.
Note: In early spring, potted flowers should not be moved outdoors too early, to avoid cold damage from cold air. Watering can increase as the temperature rises, and keep moisture and dryness balanced.
Summer care for home potted flowers
1. Water in time: in summer, flowers have lush branches and leaves and consume a lot of water, so in summer you should water flowers sufficiently every morning and evening.
2. Set up shade: for all potted flowers, once summer comes, a frame should be set up and reed curtains placed on it for shade, so they can safely pass through the severe summer heat.
3. Pay attention to ventilation: for indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, pay attention to ventilation, open the windows, and let fresh air flow indoors to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.
4. Keep moisture and cool down: in summer, you can cover the potting soil with some grass so that sunlight does not shine directly on the potting soil, thereby lowering the temperature of the potting soil and also preventing the moisture in the potting soil from evaporating too quickly. You can also use a sprayer to wet the leaves of the flowers and at the same time wet the surroundings, lowering the temperature and increasing humidity, which is very good for some flowers that like cool conditions.
Autumn care for home potted flowers
1. Add water and fertilizer management: after the Start of Autumn, the weather gradually turns cooler. For some foliage flowers such as asparagus fern, spider plant, and sago palm, apply a thin liquid fertilizer generally once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance. For chrysanthemums, camellias, azaleas, and so on that bloom once a year, timely apply liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer to ensure sufficient nutrients and make them bloom more and larger. For Chinese roses, orange jasmine, jasmine, and so on that bloom multiple times a year, supply sufficient fertilizer and water so they continue to bloom. For some fruit-ornamental flowers, such as kumquat, fingered citron, and ornamental pomegranate, apply 1-2 times a thin liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer.
2. Sow in time in autumn: in autumn, timely harvest mature flower and tree seeds, and timely sow tulips, gloxinia, snapdragon, and so on, especially seeds that easily lose germination ability, which should be sown in time in autumn, and combine with pruning to take cuttings of flowers and trees. For example, taking cuttings of Chinese rose, rose, and rose is relatively likely to succeed.
Winter care for home potted flowers
1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: most deciduous woody flowers originated in temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, and winter jasmine. They are generally dormant in winter, so the room temperature can be controlled at about 5°C. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, hardy potted Chinese rose, ornamental peach, pomegranate, honeysuckle, and so on can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard, wrapped and covered well with plastic film, and they can overwinter safely.
2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: such as oleander, kumquat, and osmanthus, which are semi-dormant, the temperature is generally controlled above 0°C, and they can safely pass the severe winter. For orange jasmine, jasmine, hibiscus, and gardenia, they should be placed in places with sufficient sunlight. The indoor temperature should be kept at about 15°C; if the temperature is too low, it will cause the flowers to die.
3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: such as fairy primrose, coleus, and pocketbook plant, keeping the room temperature between 5-15°C allows normal growth. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, garden balsam, geranium, and wax begonia, keeping sufficient sunlight and a room temperature of 10-20°C allows them to grow well. For herbaceous flowers dormant in winter such as clivia and dancing-lady orchid, maintaining a room temperature of about 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is enough; light should not exceed 8-10 hours per day, and at the same time strengthen fertilizer and water management, and they can bloom after two months.
What should be paid attention to in the water used for watering flowers
1. Water choice: the best water for watering flowers is neutral or slightly acidic river water, pond water, or rainwater. Rainwater is best for watering flowers because it contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water, especially greenish pond water, which has more nutrients and is a relatively ideal water for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is mostly used for watering flowers, but tap water contains relatively high amounts of bleaching powder and chemicals, so it should be stored for one or two days before use. In addition, if you put a few slices of vitamin C in tap water, it can eliminate the chlorine in the water; generally add one slice per pot of water, leave it for half a day, and then use it to water flowers.
2. Temperature control: as the flower proverb says: "When southern flowers move north, add alum when watering," "For southern flowers grown in the north, fish tank water is better for watering," "Fish water is fat and rice water is strong; for potted flowers they are most suitable." Whether in severe winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, you can add an appropriate amount of hot water to the water, try to make the water temperature close to the soil temperature, and create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.
How to tell whether potted flowers are short of water?
1. Tapping method: gently tap the upper middle wall of the flower pot with the knuckle of your finger. If it makes a relatively crisp sound, it means the potting soil is already dry and needs immediate watering. If it makes a dull, muddy sound, it means the potting soil is moist and watering can be postponed.
2. Visual inspection: observe with your eyes whether the color of the surface of the potting soil has changed. If the color becomes lighter or appears light grayish-white, it means the potting soil is dry and needs watering. If the color becomes darker or appears dark brown, it means the potting soil is moist and watering can be postponed.
3. Finger test: gently insert your finger about 2 cm deep into the potting soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry, rough, and hard, it means the potting soil is dry and needs immediate watering. If it feels slightly moist, fine, and soft, it means the potting soil is moist and watering can be postponed.
4. Rolling test: rub some potting soil with your fingers. If the soil becomes powdery, it means the potting soil is dry and should be watered immediately. If the soil forms flakes or granules, it means the potting soil is moist and watering can be postponed. The above methods are all based on experience, and they can only tell people the approximate condition of whether the potting soil is dry or wet. If you need to know the degree of dryness and moisture of the potting soil accurately, you can buy a soil moisture meter and insert it into the soil, and then you can see words such as "dry" or "moist" on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.
Homemade fertilizer for home potted flowers
1. Soaked liquid fertilizer: use a small vat (or small jar) and put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish scraps, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells, and moldy foods (peanuts, sunflower seeds, beans, bean powder), etc., add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the clear liquid on top and dilute it with water before trial use. You can also mix the above waste materials with some old potting soil, add some water, put them into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly, and leave it for a period; use after fermentation.
2. Waste composting: choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of stove ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock innards, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste, and broken bones into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter. When it heats up and decomposes in spring with no foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer, or a 4 mm sieve can be used to sieve it while wet and rub it into granules; the fine part is used as topdressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer. When composting, you can add some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar to reduce the odor.
Clever fertilizing for home flower growing
1. Fertilize in time: so-called timely fertilization means applying fertilizer when flowers need it. When flower leaves are found to become lighter or yellow and the plant grows thin and weak, that is the most suitable time to fertilize. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, topdressing should be applied to meet the fertilizer demand for rapid seedling growth. Different growth stages of flowers have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer applied also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth, and applying phosphorus fertilizer at the bud stage can promote larger, brighter flowers and a longer flowering period.
2. Fertilize in appropriate amounts: fertilizing potted flowers should follow "eat small meals often," that is, fertilize frequently but with a small amount each time. Generally apply thin fertilizer water once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the Start of Autumn. As flowers and trees gradually grow, the fertilizer concentration gradually increases. For example, the concentration of urea applied gradually increases from 0.2% in the early stage to 1.0%, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer increases from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.
3. Seasonal fertilization: in spring and summer, flowers grow fast and vigorously, so an appropriate amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After autumn begins, the temperature gradually decreases, flower growth weakens, and less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilization should stop to prevent a second growth peak; otherwise, it is easy to make flower tissue cells tender and cause difficulties in overwintering. For overwintering flowers, fertilization should stop in winter when they are dormant.
4. Temperature control: potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon in high temperatures or on rainy days. Fertilizing at this time easily damages roots, so it is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter, when temperatures are low, flowers grow slowly and generally are not fertilized. In summer, when temperatures are high, flowers grow vigorously and should be fertilized more. When the temperature is high, the concentration of topdressing should be low and the amount should be small; when topdressing with thin fertilizer water, apply it more times.
5. Mixed application of pesticides and fertilizers: when fertilizing, if pests or diseases occur, an appropriate amount of pesticide can be added to the fertilizer liquid, which can play the dual role of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.
Why do flowers grown at home die?
1. Too much fertilizer: some people love flowers eagerly and, considering that potted flowers consume a lot of nutrients during the flowering period, apply a large amount of chemical fertilizer, causing the concentration to be too high. In mild cases, it affects the absorption of water by root hairs, and in severe cases it causes the plant to die.
2. Too much unmatured organic fertilizer applied: because organic fertilizer has a large amount of microbial activity when decomposing in the soil, it causes soil oxygen deficiency, and the roots are suffocated to death. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces substances such as alcohol and lactic acid that are toxic to the root system, and at the same time fermentation releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing "root burning."
3. No place to grow flowers: people often put potted flowers in enclosed balconies facing east or west. In this way, the radiant heat of the sun makes the temperature inside the balcony rise sharply, forming a hot, dry environment. Hot, dry, and unventilated conditions also make red spider mite damage likely, accelerating the death of the flowers.
4. Overwintered flowers suddenly taken outdoors: leaves grown by flowers overwintering indoors are semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If suddenly taken outdoors in early spring, the shade leaves cannot adapt, and tender leaves and tender buds are easily burned by sunlight. In addition, the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors can easily cause fatal damage to the flowers.
5. Lack of sunlight: some people, for convenience of appreciation, place flowers on indoor tables, far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited. The organic nutrients in the flowers can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plants to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.