What to Do When Peony Leaves Turn Yellow, Causes of Yellowing Peony Leaves (Cut Dead Leaves and Spray Pesticide)
As everyone knows, the peony is the national flower of our country; peonies are very beautiful and deeply loved by people. Potted peonies are easy to grow, but if care is not thorough, yellowing leaves can easily occur. Many people do not know what to do when peony leaves turn yellow. First, we must understand the causes of yellowing peony leaves.
As everyone knows, the peony is the national flower of our country; peonies are very beautiful and deeply loved by people. Potted peonies are easy to grow, but if care is not thorough, yellowing leaves can easily occur. Many people do not know what to do when peony leaves turn yellow. First, we must understand the causes of yellowing peony leaves, and then treat the problem accordingly.
I. What to Do When Peony Leaves Turn Yellow: Cut Off Dead Leaves and Treat the Root Cause
The peony is the national flower of China; peonies are easy to grow, and you can keep a pot at home. Earlier we discussed how to grow peonies and the effects and benefits of peonies. Now let us talk about a common problem everyone encounters: what to do when peony leaves turn yellow. There are many causes of yellowing peony leaves; overwatering and exposure to intense sunlight can both cause leaves to turn yellow, and the solutions differ depending on the cause. But no matter the cause, dead leaves must be cut off.
II. Causes of Yellowing Peony Leaves and Solutions
1. Overwatering or underwatering
Symptoms: If watered too frequently and too much, young leaves will turn yellow, while old leaves show no obvious change. If watered too little and the plant lacks water, old leaves begin to yellow from the bottom upward. If the water shortage lasts a long time, the whole plant's leaves turn dull yellow, and the plant may even die.
Solution: Water at the right time and in the right amount, according to the condition of the potting soil. For smaller pots, water frequently; for larger pots, water after the soil surface dries. Water thoroughly, and do not let water accumulate in the pot.
2. Alkaline soil
Symptoms: If a peony grows in soil with high alkalinity, its leaves will also lose green color and turn yellow. The symptoms begin between the veins of new leaves, while the veins, especially the main vein, remain green, making the alternating yellow and green pattern very obvious. As the yellowing worsens, the veins gradually lose their green color, then the whole leaf turns white, the leaf margins scorch, and the leaves drop. In severe cases, the shoot tips die back, and the entire plant dies.
Solution: For this “yellowing” phenomenon, a 0.2% to 0.3% ferrous sulfate solution can be sprayed on the leaves 3 to 5 times. Do not use too high a concentration, and mix it fresh each time before use.
3. Root rot
Symptoms: The peony has fleshy roots. Unsuitable potting soil, failure to repot in time, and infection by pathogens can all cause root rot and lead to yellowing leaves. In the early stage, it is very hard to notice anything unusual in the aboveground part, but the root's absorption capacity gradually weakens, and the lower leaves slowly turn yellow, gradually spreading to the whole plant.
Solution: When encountering the above situation of yellowing peony leaves, what should you do? Repot every year to check the root growth and prune the roots in time. Pay attention when watering to avoid water accumulation and root rot.
4. Improper fertilizing
Symptoms: Applying too much fertilizer or too frequently is one of the causes of yellowing peony leaves. The leaf surface grows well, the leaves are thick and glossy, but over time the leaves become uneven, and in severe cases root rot may occur. When the peony lacks nutrients, or has not been fertilized for a long time, the young leaves and tender stems turn yellow, gradually causing the whole plant to yellow and even die.
Solution: If too much fertilizer was applied, water promptly; in severe cases, remove the plant from the pot and replace the soil. When fertilizer is insufficient, do not apply concentrated fertilizer all at once; supplement nutrients gradually.
5. Pests and diseases
Symptoms: Peonies are often harmed by underground pests such as white grubs and mole crickets, as well as nematodes; the leaves lose green color and turn earth-yellow, and may even scorch. The main feature of this symptom is that the leaves of a single plant or several plants in one spot turn yellow and scorch.
Solution: When symptoms appear, promptly drench the roots with a pesticide, or remove the plant from the pot, disinfect it, and replace the soil with new soil.
III. Peony Care Tips
1. For home-grown peonies, be sure to place them in a spot with good sunlight and good ventilation.
2. Because potted peonies have a smaller capacity, hold less soil, and have limited water-holding capacity, they must be watered promptly to maintain the peony's normal water needs. After planting, water thoroughly once immediately; afterward, water once every 3 to 4 days depending on whether the soil is wet or dry, keeping the potting soil moist.
3. The nutrients in the pot are limited; only timely topdressing can ensure the normal growth and development of the peony. Topdressing can begin in the second spring, using sesame, peanut, or soybean cake soaked in water and fermented before use. When applying, dilute with water, and fertilize with nutrient solution 1 to 2 times per week during the growing season. Friends who like peonies can plant a pot at home; you will surely come to like peonies more and more. The above is a complete answer to the causes of yellowing peony leaves and what to do when peony leaves turn yellow. We hope it helps everyone.
Chinese Peony Paeonia lactiflora Chinese Peony Guide: How to Grow Chinese Peony / How to Propagate Chinese Peony
Chinese Peony ProfileChinese Peony Paeonia lactiflora
Chinese Peony Cultivation Methods and Precautions, Introduction to Chinese Peony
Chinese peony, also known by the aliases Jiangli and Licao, is a famous herbaceous flower of the genus Paeonia in the family Paeoniaceae. Its cultivation history in China exceeds 4900 years, making it the earliest cultivated flower in China. Chinese peony can be divided into many varieties, such as Paeonia obovata, Paeonia mairei, and Paeonia polyphylla. Its petals are obovate, and its floral disk is shallow-cup-shaped. Its roots are made into traditional Chinese medicine and have antispasmodic and analgesic medicinal value. It ranks first among herbaceous flowers, is praised by people as the "Flower Fairy" and "Flower Minister," and is listed as one of the "Six Famous Flowers." It is also called the "May Flower Goddess," and because it has been considered the flower of love since ancient times, it is now honored as the representative flower of Qixi Festival. In addition, the Chinese peony is an important flower in Dream of the Red Chamber; Shi Xiangyun sleeping drunk on a peony cushion is one of the most beautiful scenes in Dream of the Red Chamber.
The origin of the name Chinese peony (sháo yào), according to the Materia Medica, is recorded as: "Chinese peony is like graceful charm, a beautiful appearance. This plant's flowers are graceful, hence the name." The Chinese peony has many aliases. In China's splendid garden of a hundred flowers, the ancients elevated the Chinese peony to "Flower Minister" (the prime minister among flowers), and because the Chinese peony is herbaceous, it is also called herbaceous peony (Cui Bao, Ancient and Modern Annotations). Its flowers are large and brightly colored, charming and graceful, so it is named "Jiaorong" and "Yurong" (Supplementary Records of Famous Physicians). In ancient times, people gave Chinese peony flowers when parting to express reluctance to part, so it is also named "Jiangli" and "Licao" (Ancient and Modern Annotations). Tang and Song literati called the Chinese peony "Lantail Spring"; lantail means the last cup, and the Chinese peony blooms in late spring, meaning the last cup of fine wine of spring. The Chinese peony is a herbaceous flower with no hard woody stem, like a delicate young girl as soft as a willow in the wind, hence it is called "Boneless Flower" (Zheng Qian, Hu Materia Medica). Because its flowers are fragrant, it has names such as "Luanyi" (also called "Hei Qianyi"), "Liuyi" (Guangya Commentary), and "Xinyi" (Wang Yi's commentary on Chu Ci, Nine Songs). In addition, ancient names include "Jiecang," "Baizhu," "Lishi," and "Ting" (Supplementary Records of Famous Physicians). Abroad, the Chinese peony is also highly favored, with the laudatory title "Queen of Flowers." Symbolic meaning: The Chinese peony has been China's flower of love since ancient times and is now also praised as the representative flower of Qixi Festival. The Western rose has thorns, while China's love flower, the Chinese peony, is not only beautiful but can also heal. It reflects the Chinese nation's virtue and character, like jade and like the Chinese peony: diligent, practical, as light as peony fragrance, and as gentle and beautiful as jade. Pink Chinese peonies are like rosy clouds on the horizon, and like shy young girls in love; romance and reserve are the Chinese peony blushing on spring's face. The customs of Shangsi Festival and the love song "give her a peony" have continued from the singing of the Book of Songs to the Han, Tang, Ming, and Qing dynasties. In ancient China, the Chinese peony was always the melody of love, a romantic mountain song.
It is "delicately moving" and "hard to part." In ancient times, when men and women interacted, they gave Chinese peonies to each other to express a vow of love or the sorrow of parting; the Chinese peony is also called "Jiangli Grass."
Morphological Characteristics of Chinese Peony: Roots
The root consists of 3 parts: root crown, tuberous roots, and fibrous roots. The root crown head (different from "rhizome"; the root crown is a root, while the rhizome is a stem) is the uppermost part of the root, darker in color, and bears buds; tuberous roots grow from below the root crown, are fleshy, thick and strong, spindle-shaped or long-columnar, 0.6 to 3.5 cm thick, with a pale yellow-brown or gray-purple exterior and white interior, rich in nutrients. Tuberous roots generally do not directly produce buds, but after breaking they can sprout smaller new buds; therefore, collecting broken roots over 5 cm in autumn can also be used for propagation. Fibrous roots mainly grow from the tuberous roots, are the main organs for absorbing water and nutrients, and can gradually develop into tuberous roots. The roots of Chinese peony are generally divided by appearance into three types: thick-root type, sloping-root type, and even-root type. In the thick-root type, the roots are relatively sparse, thick, and straight-extending; in the sloping-root type, the roots extend in all directions and vary in thickness; in the even-root type, the roots are appropriately spaced and uniform in thickness. The roots can be used as medicine.
Buds
They grow in clusters on the root crown, are fleshy, overwinter underground in winter, and sprout and emerge as temperatures rise in early spring. When newly born they are water-red to pale purplish-red, sometimes yellow; after emerging from the ground, the color deepens, generally becoming dark purplish-red, with scales outside for protection. The buds of Chinese peony are mixed buds, developing both into reproductive organs, the flowers, and into vegetative organs, the stems and leaves. Before sprouting, buds are 2.5 to 4 cm long. After the buds emerge from the ground, their color and shape also vary by cultivar, with colors ranging from dark purplish-red to yellow-brown, and bud shapes divided into 3 types: short-round type, bamboo-shoot type, and brush-tip type. In the short-round type, the bud body is relatively short with a bluntly rounded tip; in the bamboo-shoot type, the bud body is relatively long with an acute tip, shaped like a bamboo shoot; in the brush-tip type, the bud body is relatively long with a gradually pointed tip, shaped like the tip of a writing brush. The sprouting of Chinese peony is one of the most spectacular scenes, because it embodies the germination and vitality of life, and therefore has high ornamental value.
Stems
They grow in clusters from the root, about 50 to 110 cm tall, herbaceous; the stem base is cylindrical, and the upper part is mostly angular, sometimes twisted, sometimes straight, with the sun-facing part mostly showing a purplish-red blush.
Leaves
The lower leaves are bipinnately trifoliolate compound leaves, that is, the end of the leaf consists of 3 leaflets forming one leaf cluster, with one leaf cluster on each side; each leaf cluster on the two sides usually consists of 4 leaflets. In the middle compound leaves, the terminal 3 leaflets remain unchanged, while the number of leaflets on the two sides begins to decrease, gradually from the original 4 to 3, 2, or 1, or even disappearing. When they disappear, only 3 leaflets remain at the end; this is called a tripinnate compound leaf. The upper leaves are simple leaves. Leaves are 20 to 24 cm long; leaflets are elliptical, narrowly ovate, needle-shaped, etc., with long pointed tips, entire and slightly wavy margins, and dense white bony fine teeth along the leaf margin. The leaf surface may be yellow-green, green, or dark green, and the leaf underside is mostly powdery green, hairy or hairless. The leaves of Chinese peony also have ornamental value; in "red lanterns shining, green coiled dragon," "green coiled dragon" is praise for the leaves, so it can also be used as a foliage plant.
Flower Buds
Shapes include round peach, flat round peach, flat round peach, pointed round peach, long round peach, pointed peach, crooked pointed peach, long pointed peach, flat peach, and several others. The outer whorl has 5 sepals, leaf-like lanceolate, green, gradually decreasing from bottom to top; the inner sepals number 3 (sometimes increasing to 7), green or yellow-green, sometimes with yellow-white stripes or purplish-red stripes, obovate, broadly ovate, round, elliptical, or irregular.
Flowers
Generally borne singly at the top of the stem or near the top in leaf axils, though some rare cultivars even produce 2 or 3 flowers together. The species flower is white, 8 to 11 cm in diameter, with 5 to 13 petals, obovate, numerous stamens, yellow filaments, a shallow-cup-shaped floral disk wrapping the base of the carpels, with a bluntly rounded apex; carpels number 3 to 5, hairless or hairy, with a beak at the tip. Horticultural cultivars have rich flower colors, including white, pink, red, purple, yellow, green, black, and bicolor, with flower diameters of 10 to 30 cm and petals reaching up to a hundred or more; some cultivars even have 880 petals, and flower forms are varied. The flowering period is May to June.
Fruit
Follicles, spindle-shaped, elliptical, bottle-shaped, etc., smooth or with fine down, with a small pointed tip. 2 to 8 follicles are free, composed of a single carpel, with a 1-locule ovary containing 5 to 7 seeds.
Seeds
Black or black-brown; seeds are large, round, oblong, or pointed-round.
Phenological Period
The periods in which the various organs of the Chinese peony undergo corresponding changes within a year under the constraints of climatic conditions are called phenological periods. For example, in the Beijing area, Chinese peony buds sprout and emerge from late March to early April. The buds formed on the underground root crown in June to July of the previous year, after growth and flower bud differentiation, sprout and emerge after temperatures rise in spring. The buds are mostly a beautiful purplish-red, with a few cultivars being delicate yellow-green, and have high ornamental value. After more than 20 days of rapid growth, the new stems can reach about 2/3 of the height of a mature plant, the lower compound leaves spread flat, and the tender leaves are also purplish-red or yellow-green. After the lower leaves spread flat, growth is again rapid, and flower buds appear at the stem tips in early April. After budding, as the stems and leaves fill out and the flower buds develop, the flowers begin to open in early to mid-May. The flowering period ends in early June. A single flower remains open for 5 to 7 days; single-petaled cultivars remain open for a shorter time, while double-petaled cultivars last longer. The population flowering period (from the opening of early-flowering cultivars to the fading of late-flowering cultivars) is about 25 days. After the flowers fade, mixed buds differentiate and develop again on the underground root crown. Seeds mature in August, the aboveground part dies from late October to early November, and the mixed buds borne on the root crown overwinter in the soil, then sprout and grow again the following spring. This annual cyclical process mainly has the following rules: first, sequence; each phenological period can proceed only after the previous phenological period is completed, and at the same time it lays the foundation for the next phenological period. Second, changes in all phenological periods are produced under the combined action of certain external conditions, among which temperature is often the leading influencing factor. Third, because phenological periods change with the climate of the four seasons, phenological changes have an annual periodicity. Fourth, phenological periods have repeatability under certain conditions, and so on.
Main Factors Affecting Flowering Phenology
(1) Air temperature: In the same region, the timing of the Chinese peony flowering period is closely related to spring temperature changes. Temperature can affect the entire flowering process. With a warm spring versus a cold spring, the flowering period can differ by 4 to 5 days, or even 10 to 20 days.
(2) Moisture and rainfall: Moisture and rainfall have little effect on the flowering period. Sufficient irrigation before flowering or encountering rainfall helps the Chinese peony bloom, with larger flowers and more brilliant colors; but if there is relatively heavy rainfall, the flowers are damaged and fade early. If soil moisture content is low before flowering, the flowers become smaller, the colors are less brilliant, and the flowering period is shortened.
(3) Altitude: Altitude can affect changes in temperature, light, and humidity, thereby affecting the flowering period. Generally, as altitude increases, the flowering period is delayed. For example, the Chinese peony flowering period in Luoyang ended on May 14, while on Baiyun Mountain in nearby Manxian, the Chinese peonies had just begun to show color. The Chinese peony flowering period in Pengzhou City, Sichuan, had ended, while nearby Danjing Mountain had flowers just beginning to open. Different altitude changes in cultivation sites can be used to extend the viewing period.
(4) Light: Light often accompanies temperature and has a major impact on plant growth, development, and flowering period. Insufficient light before flowering can affect flower color, making it less rich. Strong light during the flowering period, accompanied by rising temperatures, can shorten the flowering period or scorch the flowers. Therefore, setting up a shade shed during the flowering period can extend the Chinese peony flowering period.
Growth and Development Characteristics
1、Life Cycle and Annual Cycle
The Chinese peony is a perennial herbaceous plant. From seed germination to death, in its lifetime of life activities, it goes through life processes such as growth, flowering, fruiting, aging, and death. This whole process is called the life cycle, also called the large development cycle. For seedling plants, the life cycle can be divided into 3 developmental stages. Seedlings flower in about 4 years; before flowering is the juvenile stage. In the first year after sowing and emergence, the plant is 3 to 4 cm tall, grows 1 to 2 leaves, and has roots 8 to 10 cm long, with the upper part of the root relatively thick, about 0.4 to 0.5 cm in diameter. In the second spring, the plant height reaches 7 to 8 cm, and better-growing plants can reach 15 to 29 cm, with a plant spread of about 30 cm. In the third spring, a few plants already flower, with plant height 15 to 60 cm and only one main root well developed; plant spread is 30 to 40 cm. In the fourth year, all plants can flower. After entering the adult stage, growth is vigorous and flowering is abundant, making it the best ornamental period. As long as the environment is suitable, the adult stage can last twenty to thirty years, then enter the aging stage until death. Division plants directly enter the adult stage and gradually age after twenty to thirty years.
The annual cycle, also called the small development cycle, refers to the staged developmental changes produced by Chinese peony plants within a year as the climatic rhythm changes. It is mainly manifested as alternating changes between the growth period and the dormancy period. Among these, the vernalization stage of the dormancy period and the photoperiod stage of the growth period are the most critical. The vernalization stage of the Chinese peony requires about 40 days at a low temperature of 0°C to complete, after which the mixed buds can begin to sprout and grow. The Chinese peony is a long-day plant; flower buds need long-day conditions to develop and bloom. After the mixed buds sprout, if the light duration is insufficient, or under short-day conditions, they usually only grow leaves and do not flower, or flower abnormally.
2、Growth and Development Characteristics
(1) Flower bud structure and life cycle: The buds of the Chinese peony are mixed buds and belong to the underground bud type. After sprouting, they extend above ground to both produce stems and leaves and unfold buds to flower. The mixed bud is a complex of multiple primordia, composed of the apical growing point, bud scales, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales, leaf primordia, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia, bract primordia, sepal primordia, petal primordia, stamen primordia, pistil primordia, and so on. This bud is called the mother-generation bud; then the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales and leaf primordia are the original bodies of the daughter-generation buds. The axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia and their axillary bud primordia do not produce bud scales and are naked buds; while the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the scales have bud scales, forming scaly buds. In spring, the scaly buds sprout, and the daughter-generation naked buds extend above ground as the internodes of the mother-generation mixed bud elongate, forming flower branches or branches on the main stem; their daughter-generation scaly buds do not emerge above ground. After the aboveground part withers in autumn, the daughter-generation scaly bud located at the uppermost end of the Chinese peony root crown becomes the "terminal bud." In fact, the Chinese peony has only one terminal bud, which is the terminal bud of the seedling after seed germination. The next year, this daughter-generation scaly bud sprouts and emerges from the soil, extending branches, unfolding leaves, and flowering. Therefore, the life cycle of a naked bud is 2 years, while the life cycle of a scaly bud is 3 years.
(2) Flower bud differentiation: After the Chinese peony flowers, the axillary buds of its underground scaly buds appear around August, and their apical growing points gradually produce bud scale primordia from outside to inside. By May of the following year, a growing point covered by 4 bud scales has formed, and bud scale differentiation is completed in late June. Then, the apical growing point begins to produce leaf primordia; leaf primordia have multiple finger-like protrusions, while bud scale primordia have only 1 to 3. Leaf primordium differentiation ends from early August to early September.
Ecological Habits of Chinese Peony
1.Temperature
The Chinese peony is a typical temperate plant. It likes warmth and tolerates cold, and has a relatively broad ecological adaptation range. In northern China it can be cultivated in the open field and has strong cold resistance. In the Nenjiang County area of northern Heilongjiang Province, where the annual growth period is only 120 days and the extreme minimum temperature is -46.5°C, it can still grow and bloom normally and overwinter in the open field. In summer it prefers a cool climate, but it is also quite heat-tolerant; for example, in Bozhou, Anhui Province, where the extreme maximum summer temperature reaches 42.1°C, it can also safely pass the summer.
2.Light
Only with sufficient light during the growing period can the Chinese peony grow luxuriantly and have brilliant flower colors; however, it can also grow and develop normally under light shade, and during the flowering period light shade can appropriately lower temperature and increase humidity, protecting it from scorching by strong sunlight and thereby extending the viewing period. But if shaded too heavily, it will cause leggy growth, weak growth, and failure to flower or sparse flowering.
The Chinese peony is a long-day plant. It differentiates flower buds in the short-day seasons of autumn and winter and blooms under long-day conditions in spring. Both flower bud development and flowering must proceed under long-day conditions. If the light duration is too short (8 to 9 hours), flower bud development will be delayed, leaf growth will accelerate, flowering will be poor, and it may even fail to flower.
3.Soil
The Chinese peony is a deep-rooted plant, so it requires deep soil layers, and because it has thick fleshy roots, it is suitable for loose, well-drained sandy loam. It grows poorly in clay and sandy soil. High soil moisture content and poor drainage easily cause root rot. Neutral or slightly acidic soil is suitable, and saline-alkaline land is not suitable for planting. Fertile soil gives better growth, but note that nitrogen content must not be too high, to prevent leggy branches and leaves. During the growing period, appropriately increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can promote robust branch and leaf growth and beautiful flowering. The Chinese peony avoids continuous cropping. In traditional concentrated Chinese peony production areas, continuous planting of Chinese peonies in the same plot for many years is a very common phenomenon and has caused serious losses; not only are pests and diseases severe, but yield and quality decline, and it may even lead to large-scale death. Therefore, a scientific and reasonable crop rotation system must be implemented.
4.Moisture
The Chinese peony prefers high, open terrain and a relatively dry environment, and does not need frequent irrigation. Because the Chinese peony has fleshy roots, it is especially intolerant of waterlogging; 6 to 10 hours of standing water often causes root rot. Low-lying, wet areas are not suitable as Chinese peony production areas in China. Every flood is almost devastating to Chinese peonies; only those in high, open places that were not submerged survived.
Cultivation Techniques for Chinese Peony
Chinese peony cultivation includes ornamental cultivation, medicinal cultivation, soilless cultivation, forcing and retarding cultivation, cut flower cultivation, and so on, described below.
1.Site Requirements
Choose a planting site with high, dry terrain and good drainage, requiring deep, loose, fertile sandy loam. When planting in sections with relatively heavy salinity or alkalinity, soil replacement is needed; when planting in lower areas, build raised platforms, and there should be sufficient clean irrigation water sources. The Chinese peony avoids continuous cropping. Field cultivation generally requires rotation once every 3 to 4 years; otherwise growth weakens and pest and disease damage becomes severe. If land limitations prevent timely rotation, deep plowing should be carried out 1-2 months before planting. The depth is 60 to 100 cm. For every 666.7 sq m, 1500 to 2000 kg of decomposed manure or 200 to 250 kg of cake fertilizer can be applied. Remember that raw, undecomposed fertilizer must not be applied.
2.Suitable Planting Time
Whether for seedling planting or division propagation, final planting in Heze is from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumnal Equinox), and in Yangzhou from late September (Autumnal Equinox) to early November (Start of Winter). It is generally combined with division.
3.Planting Spacing
For ornamental garden cultivation, the plant and row spacing can be 1 m x 1 m, and planting points can be arranged in a "pin-shaped" pattern. This planting method can use the land evenly and reasonably and helps plants grow symmetrically, but field operations are sometimes inconvenient; for the convenience of field management and observation records, the "square" arrangement with horizontal and vertical rows is often used. The specifications of the planting hole are about 35 cm deep and 18 cm across the top. The hole should be dug narrower at the top and wider at the bottom. For ornamental cultivation and propagation, thick roots are not removed. For medicinal cultivation, root-promoted seedlings after root removal are used (the Zhejiang Dongyang method), with holes about 25 cm. If the root-removed peony head is used directly for planting, the depth can be even shallower.
4.Planting Method
Apply decomposed manure or cake fertilizer at the bottom of the hole and mix it evenly with the subsoil. Before planting, treat the Chinese peony seedlings with a mixture of 700x thiophanate-methyl solution plus 1000x isofenphos-methyl solution to prevent pest and disease damage. Hold the Chinese peony seedling by hand and place the roots spread out in the hole. When filling the hole halfway with soil, shake and lift the seedling so that the root system and soil are tightly combined. The lifting height of the seedling should be based on the buds being level with the ground surface; after watering, the planting hole sinks, which is exactly the suitable planting depth. If planted too deep, the buds are not easy to sprout and emerge, and even if they emerge, growth and development are not vigorous; if planted too shallow, the rhizome is exposed above the ground, and in summer it is exposed to sunlight, which can easily lead to death. Finally, fill the hole with soil, firm it, and pile about 10 cm of soil on top to protect against cold and preserve soil moisture, and also as a marker and protection. Depending on the soil moisture condition, if the soil is moist, watering after planting may be omitted; generally, water immediately after planting.
5.Field Management
(1) Remove soil and level the beds: The soil piles made at planting in the previous autumn must be promptly removed and leveled before the Chinese peony tender buds emerge, and the bed surface leveled, to facilitate watering and field management. If done too late, removing the soil will damage the tender buds; if the soil is not removed, the base of the tender buds will weaken, affecting growth.
(2) Cultivating and weeding: Throughout the growing season, cultivate and weed frequently. Deep cultivation is needed before the leaf canopy fully covers the ground and around the flowering period; shallow cultivation is needed after flowering. Generally, cultivation and weeding should be done about 10 times per year.
(3) Fertilizing: The Chinese peony likes fertilizer, and there is rarely harm from too much fertilizer. Especially when the flower buds show color and when buds are pregnant, the demand for nutrients is even more urgent. In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, according to the fertilizer requirements of the Chinese peony at different developmental stages, topdressing can be applied 3 times per year. After the seedlings emerge and unfold leaves in spring, "flower fertilizer" can be applied, with the purpose of promoting robust plant growth and supplementing a large amount of nutrients for flower bud development and flowering. To supplement fertilizer in time, quick-acting fertilizer is often used, and attention should be paid to appropriately increasing the phosphorus and potassium fertilizer components. After flowering, the plant consumes a large amount of internal nutrients and must carry out flower bud differentiation and bud development, so "bud fertilizer" can be applied. Whether sufficient nutrients are supplied in time at this time directly relates to the quality of flowering and growth the next year. Quick-acting fertilizer is still applied. Before winter, combined with winter soil covering, "winter fertilizer" can be applied, mainly long-acting fertilizer, mostly fully decomposed compost, barnyard manure, or decomposed cake fertilizer and compound fertilizer. Topdressing methods include hole application, furrow application, and broadcast application. For one- to two-year-old seedlings, because the root system is not well developed, hole application between plants or furrow application between rows is often used, with holes and furrows about 15 cm deep. Fertilizer is applied in them and covered with soil. For plants over three years old, broadcast application is mostly used; fertilizer is spread evenly, then combined with cultivation and weeding, deep hoeing and loosening the soil to mix it evenly with the soil. For one- to two-year-old seedlings, for every 666.7 sq m, 150 to 200 kg of cake fertilizer or sesame paste residue (the paste liquid after making sesame paste) can be applied as topdressing, or 1500 kg of manure. For plants over three years old, for every 666.7 sq m, 200 to 250 kg of cake fertilizer or sesame paste residue can be used, or 2000 to 2500 kg of manure.
(4) Watering: The Chinese peony has a well-developed root system that goes deep into the soil and can absorb water from deep soil layers; the roots are fleshy and intolerant of waterlogging, so it does not need frequent watering like open-field herbaceous flowers. However, excessive dryness is also unfavorable for growth, causing flowers to be small and sparse and colors to be less brilliant. It can be seen that moderate moisture is an essential ecological condition for the normal growth of the Chinese peony. Therefore, during drought it still needs timely watering, especially before and after flowering and before winter soil covering, when sufficient irrigation must be ensured. During heavy rain, special attention must be paid to timely drainage to prevent root damage.
(5) Remove side buds: In addition to the main bud borne at the stem tip, the Chinese peony has 3 to 4 side buds in the upper leaf axils of the stem. To concentrate nutrients and make the terminal bud flower large, remove the side buds shortly after the flower buds appear. To prevent damage to the terminal bud, first leave 1 side bud; when the terminal bud enlarges and normal development is no longer a problem, remove the reserved side bud. Therefore, flower farmers have the saying, "Chinese peony pinch the head (remove side buds), tree peony trim the feet (remove basal buds)." Cleverly using the difference in flowering time between main and side buds can appropriately extend the Chinese peony viewing period. Among the same cultivar (cultivars whose side buds can flower normally), select some plants, remove the main bud, and leave 1 side bud to flower, and the flowering period can be delayed by several days.
(6) Staking: The Chinese peony flower stalks are relatively soft. Except for a few cultivars with short, sturdy plant types, and except for cultivars with fewer petals such as single-petal type, lotus type, and golden-stamen type, most cultivars have nodding flower heads when in bloom, or even the whole plant leans over. To maintain a good ornamental effect, after the flower buds show color, stakes should be set up so that the flower stalks extend straight, the flower heads stand upright, and the flower posture is beautiful. Two staking forms are commonly used: first, the single-stake type, mostly used for cultivars with especially large flowers and relatively soft stems. When tying, insert a thin bamboo into the soil behind the flower stem, then use plastic rope or hemp rope in a figure "8" shape to tie the upper part of the flower stem 6 to 8 cm from the flower head to the stake. Do not tie it tightly at the top of the flower stem, to avoid making the flower head stiff and losing beauty. Second, the bamboo-ring type, used for general cultivars. Enclose the loose plant clump with a bamboo ring; then the enclosed flower stems support each other and stand upright. The size of the bamboo ring can be adjusted according to the size of the plant clump. Generally, two layers of bamboo rings are used, smaller at the lower layer and larger at the upper layer. Each bamboo ring is fixed by tying it with 3 or 4 small bamboo poles inserted into the soil. The above two forms can be used in combination according to the situation.
(7) Set up shade and rain shelters: The Chinese peony flowering period coincides with the hot and rainy season. During the flowering period, shade and rain shelters can be set up to block strong light, lower humidity, and protect against rain invasion, thereby improving the ornamental effect and extending the viewing period. The shelter is 2.5 m high, covered with shade netting and plastic film. Setting up the shelter can extend the flowering period by 8 to 10 days.
(8) Cut off spent flowers: After flowering, except for plants kept for seed, promptly cut off spent flowers to avoid wasting nutrients.
(9) Cut off the aboveground part, water with freezing water, and cover with soil for winter: After late October, the aboveground stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and dry. At this time, cut off dead leaves, sweep up dead leaves, and bury them deeply in a centralized place to avoid further spread and harm from pests and diseases. Then, before the soil freezes in winter, water thoroughly, fertilize, and pile soil to preserve moisture and protect against cold for overwintering.
Medicinal Cultivation
The Chinese peony is often used for medicinal cultivation; its roots are a traditional Chinese medicinal material. When the root bark is scraped off, it is called "white peony"; for some wild plants in the Paeonia section, such as Paeonia veitchii and Paeonia obovata, the root bark is generally not scraped off when used medicinally, and they are called "red peony." Both are used as medicine, but their medicinal effects differ. Medicinal cultivation is similar to ornamental cultivation, but also has its differences. The planting row spacing is 50 cm x 40 cm or 50 cm x 35 cm, that is, 3000 to 3500 plants per 666.7 sq m. It can be planted in holes or furrows. The planting stock is division seedlings or three-year-old seedling plants. If division seedlings are used, the new plant should not carry too many buds; those with 1 to 3 buds and 2 roots can be used; if those with 1 bud and 1 root are used, 2 plants can be planted per hole.
Carrying too many buds will cause leggy branches and leaves above ground and affect root growth. The purpose of medicinal cultivation is to grow good roots, making them develop quickly and grow plump. When the plant shows buds, remove all of them so that they do not develop and flower, concentrating nutrients on root growth. Bud removal is best done on a sunny day when there is no dew. After bud removal, spray 1 time with equal-strength Bordeaux mixture, which can reduce pathogen infection.
After taking the peony roots from the Chinese peony plant, remove the fibrous roots, grade them by thickness, boil and stir them, then take out a root and observe it; if the water traces dry completely in less than 1 minute, it is the right time (some say taking out the root when the root epidermis has no water droplets attached is the right time). Immediately take it out and soak it in cold water for about half an hour or more, scrape off the root bark with a glass piece, small knife, etc., wash clean, and dry in the air. It is best not to expose it to the blazing sun, to prevent the outer skin from turning reddish-brown. Air-dry for about half a month; thick roots need more time, thin roots less. During the root-drying process, after drying for a few days, gather them together and let them sweat for one or two days to let them regain moisture, then dry them again, until the roots break open and are powdery white and sound when tapped. Then they can be graded and packaged for sale. They are usually divided into 3 grades by root diameter: first grade, root diameter above 4 cm; second grade, 2 to 4 cm; third grade, below 2 cm.
All are required to have smooth outer skin, white with a pink tinge, and uniform thickness. Generally, 1 kg of fresh roots can yield 0.5 kg of dried white peony. After 3 years of continued cultivation, each 666.7 sq m produces about 900 kg of fresh roots, yielding 450 kg of white peony (Heze). Zhejiang Dongyang prepares white peony by first removing the root bark and then boiling it, a method with local characteristics, but the medicinal effect is the same. Soilless Cultivation Soilless cultivation, also called hydroponics, is a technique of preparing a nutrient solution based on the nutrient elements necessary for plant growth and development and using it to cultivate plants.
For the export of potted flowers, soilless cultivation must be used in the international flower market to prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Because it saves water and fertilizer, is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, produces good-quality products, and saves labor in management, it is increasingly widely used.
1. Cultivar selection Most Chinese peony cultivars perform well under nutrient solution cultivation, better than under general soil cultivation.
Cultivars suitable for soilless cultivation include: "Zi Die Xian Jin," "Wu Long Peng Sheng," "Zhu Sha Pan," "Yang Fei Chu Yu," and "Yan Chi Yang Bo," etc.
2. Substrate preparation The Chinese peony has a fleshy root system, and the substrate requirements are good air permeability, fertilizer retention, and water retention. Vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, and bark can be used as substrates; using a mixed substrate gives better results. The mixing ratios include vermiculite, perlite, and bark at a ratio of 1:1:1; vermiculite, perlite, and ceramsite at 1:1:1; or vermiculite and perlite at 1:1, etc. In southern China, some local substrates such as carbonized rice husks can be added.
3. Cultivation forms There are two forms: pot cultivation and trough cultivation. For pot cultivation, choose flower pots of corresponding diameter according to the size of the Chinese peony plant. Clay pots can be used; they have good air permeability and benefit plant growth, but are heavy and inconvenient to manage and use. Plastic pots are commonly used; they are attractive in appearance, light in weight, and convenient to use and manage, but have poor air permeability. When planting, lay a layer of ceramsite at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage, then plant the Chinese peony seedling, fill in the mixed substrate, and add a layer of ceramsite on the surface to prevent the substrate from splashing out when watering. For trough cultivation, use cement or bricks to build a rectangular cultivation trough. The long axis should have a certain drainage slope, width about 80 to 120 cm, length 200 to 300 cm, and depth 42 cm. Line the trough with plastic film, fill in 40 cm of cultivation substrate, and plant seedlings at a spacing of 40 cm x 40 cm, with 2 to 3 rows possible. The planting time is the same as field planting.
4. Nutrient solution preparation Wang Yueying and others at Beijing Forestry University, through analysis of the nutritional status of tree peony cultivation soil and measurement of the nutrient content of tree peonies at different growth stages, prepared nutrient solution formulas adapted to 3 different growth stages: first, used from summer to before winter, with the function of promoting buds and protecting roots; second, used before flowering, with relatively high phosphorus, promoting beautiful and large flowers; third, used after flowering, playing a comprehensive fertilizing role. This has high reference value for preparing nutrient solutions for soilless cultivation of Chinese peony. The mineral element content of the nutrient solution should be between 0.1% and 0.4%.
5.Irrigation System：
(1) Gravity irrigation facilities: Commonly used for general production cultivation; the setup is relatively simple, the investment is low, management is convenient, and the use effect is good. The cultivation trough width is 200 cm, and 4 drip irrigation tapes can be installed. The size of the nutrient solution storage tank is determined by the area of the cultivation trough. Generally, the storage tank being 150 to 200 cm higher than the cultivation trough surface is sufficient. By means of the gravity generated by the height difference of the liquid, the nutrient solution is delivered to the plant roots through the drip irrigation pipe.
(2) Power irrigation facilities: Mostly used for large-area soilless cultivation. The transportation of the nutrient solution in the above facilities is changed from gravity transportation to power transportation. An electric pump is added as the transportation power.
(3) Micro-tube sprinkler irrigation facilities: Lay plastic pipes with many micropores on the bed surface and spray the nutrient solution onto the cultivation bed.
(4) Seepage pipe irrigation facilities: Bury specially made seepage pipes in 2 to 10 cm of substrate so that the nutrient solution continuously seeps outward. This saves water, irrigates evenly, and is also very convenient to operate. Forcing and Retarding Cultivation The use of artificial measures to promote early sprouting of Chinese peony flower buds and make them bloom earlier than the natural flowering period is called forcing cultivation. Conversely, the use of artificial measures to delay bud sprouting and make the flowering period later than the natural flowering period is called retarding cultivation. The two are also often called flower period forcing and delaying. On the basis of the natural open-field flowering period, reasonably using forcing and retarding cultivation methods to regulate the flowering period can make the Chinese peony bloom year-round. The initial stage of flower bud differentiation in Chinese peony is later than in tree peony; its early-flowering cultivars begin flower bud differentiation at the end of August, while late-flowering cultivars delay until mid-to-late September. Most cultivars form petal primordia from mid-November and stop developing, overwintering in this state. They sprout and grow in the following spring, and the flower buds continue to develop until flowering.
To achieve year-round supply of Chinese peony cut flowers and potted flowers, a combination of forcing and retarding cultivation is often used to regulate the flowering period. Selecting suitable cultivars, selecting robust seedlings with fully developed flower buds and pure cultivar characteristics, adopting scientific treatment measures, and careful cultivation management are the guarantees for success in forcing and retarding cultivation.
1、Forcing Cultivation
(1) Cultivar selection: To cultivate Chinese peonies, first select cultivars suitable for forcing cultivation. Generally, early-flowering cultivars are mostly chosen, which can shorten the time to forced flowering, such as "Qiao Ling," "Mo Zi Lou," "Yin He," "Fen Rong Lian," "Da Fu Gui," "Feng Yu Luo Jin Chi," and "Mei Ju," etc.
(2) Cold storage treatment: To make the Chinese peony bloom before its natural flowering period, select robust three- to four-year-old plants and carry out cold storage treatment. In the cold storage room, use the soil-burial cold storage method, with buds slightly exposed. During cold storage, check the soil moisture once every half month. If sandy loam is used, it should be just right to form a ball when held in the hand. Too dry is unfavorable for forcing flowers; too wet easily causes mold and root rot. The humidity in the cold storage room should be maintained at 3°C. Different cultivars have certain differences in treatment humidity and treatment time. For example, if plants are cold-stored in early September and then planted, at 15°C they will flower in 60 to 70 days, that is, they can go on the market in December; if flowering is needed in January to February of the following year, cold storage in October to November is sufficient.
(3) Nutrient soil planting: Plants that have undergone cold storage treatment need to be planted in nutrient soil, with regular spraying or irrigation of nutrient solution, supplemented by hormone management, and special attention should be paid to fertilizer spraying in the later stage. Nutrient soil can be prepared from decomposed leaf mold, garden soil, and sandy soil at a ratio of 2:3:1, with an appropriate amount of cake fertilizer and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer added; nitrogen fertilizer is applied as topdressing after potting. After taking the plants out of the cold storage, first place them in a cool place to adapt to room temperature. When potting, cover the soil 1 cm above the buds; after watering, the buds are slightly exposed.
(4) Regulation of temperature and humidity: After the flower-forcing plants enter the greenhouse, gradually increase the temperature. The optimum growth temperature for Chinese peony is 20 to 25°C; above 30°C is unfavorable for growth. The following temperature control methods can be used: early stage 15 to 20°C, about 10 days; middle stage 15 to 25°C, about 15 days; late stage 20 to 25°C, about 20 to 25 days. High temperatures should not exceed 28°C, low temperatures should not be below 12°C, and severe temperature changes should be avoided. Relative air humidity should be maintained at 70% to 80%, which can be regulated by watering, spraying, ventilation, etc.
(5) Supplementary light: The Chinese peony likes warmth and light. During forcing cultivation in winter and spring, which coincides with the short-day season, supplementary light is especially important. The photoperiod should be increased to 13 to 15 hours per day, so that the flower buds develop fully and the flowers are beautiful and large.
(6) Application of hormones: Generally, gibberellin (GA3) treatment is used. When watering after potting, 2000 mg/L GA3 can be used to further break bud dormancy. When the flower bud diameter is 0.4 cm and 0.8 cm, use 600 mg/L GA3 to smear the flower buds 2 times; when the flower bud diameter is 1.2 cm, use 1000 mg/L GA3 to smear 1 more time.
(7) Other management: When the sprouts grow to 5 to 10 cm, remove budless sprouts to avoid wasting nutrients. Afterward, pay attention to removing side flower buds, leaving 6 to 8 flowers per plant. When the flower buds are about to open, watering should be controlled, for sale or rental display. After flowering, do not water the flowers; place them indoors at 15 to 20°C, and the flowering period can reach 20 to 30 days. After the flowers fade, put them back in the greenhouse, and after the temperature is suitable, plant them back in the open field. If used as cut flowers, after conventional harvesting, continue careful management, nourish the roots and promote buds for future use. 2. Retarding cultivation Retarding cultivation mostly selects late-flowering cultivars. The following cultivars can be considered: such as "Yang Fei Chu Yu," "Ling Long Yu," "Bing Qing," "Zhao Yuan Fen," "Yan Chi Yang Bo," "Hong Yan Fei Xiang," "Hua Hong Chong Lou," and "Yin Zhen Xiu Hong Pao," etc.
To make peonies bloom later than their natural flowering period, two measures can be adopted.
(1) Cold storage during the dormant period: In early spring, dig up plants that have not yet sprouted and store them in a cold storage room at 0°C, keeping the plants moist. Depending on the time when flowers are needed and the season, they can be taken out 30-45 days in advance for normal cultivation, and they will bloom at the desired time.
(2) Cold storage during the growing period: This can be done when the flower buds are about to open. The storage temperature should be higher, at 3-5°C. Take them out 2-3 days before the flowers are needed and cultivate them normally. The latter method only allows short-term storage in the cold room and can be used to extend the normal viewing period. Long-term storage will cause spindly growth and reduce ornamental value. With the former method, if planted out from April to August, they bloom in 30-35 days; if planted in March or September, they bloom in about 45 days. When summer temperatures are too high, shade treatment can be applied, supplemented by water spraying to lower the temperature, so as to prevent high temperatures from causing bud withering and leaf scorch. Cut flower cultivation: At present, cut flowers account for about 60% of total sales in the world flower market. Peony cut flowers, because of their large size, brilliant color, long stems, good water retention, and easy storage and transport, have become a highly popular commodity in the world flower market. A certain quantity of peony cut flowers is exported every year, and the development prospects are very promising.
The following measures should be taken for cut flower cultivation:
1. Select varieties suitable for cut flower use.
The varieties currently available in China were all bred for garden cultivation, and none were specifically bred for cut flower production. However, from the existing varieties, some suitable for cut flower use can still be selected. Varieties suitable for cut flower production should meet the following conditions:
(1) High flower formation rate, floriferous type, stiff peduncles and petioles, long branches, and relatively small leaves.
(2) Regular flower shape, brilliant flower color, fragrant scent, round and neat buds, with tips not easily splitting.
(3) Firm petal texture, distinct layers, medium flower diameter, flowers opening upward, and few sugary secretions on the buds.
(4) Good water retention as cut flowers, with a long vase life.
(5) Plants growing robustly, with strong growth vigor, strong tillering ability, strong stress resistance, and few pests and diseases. Tolerant of storage and transport. When selecting cut flower varieties, attention should be paid to matching flower colors and flowering periods to ensure year-round or multi-season supply to the market.
2、Field management
3、Post-harvest management
(1) Timely cutting: When the flower buds show color, keep the lower 2-3 compound leaves and cut off the flowering branches. The best time to cut is from early morning to 10 a.m.; if the cutting task is large, it can also be done in the evening. After cutting, immediately place the flowering branches in a bucket of clean water to prevent water loss.
(2) Grading and packaging: In a low-temperature room, remove leaves and grade the flowering branches. Remove the upper 2 compound leaves and the single leaf near the flower bud, and cut off the remaining compound leaves from the base of the petiole. Wash off the sugar solution secreted on the buds with clean water. According to branch length, divide them into five grades: 50 cm, 55 cm, 60 cm, 65 cm, and 70 cm. First wrap each flower bud in soft paper, then put on a corrugated paper tube. According to variety and different branch lengths, tie 10 branches into 1 bundle, then trim the bases evenly according to length requirements, and immerse the bases in a 4 mmol/L STS (silver thiosulfate) solution for 10 minutes of pretreatment; then dip quickly in a fungicide solution. After drying until no water droplets remain on the leaf surface, pack the bundled peony cut flowers into boxes for transport.
(3) Storage and preservation: According to research on the post-harvest physiology and preservation techniques of cut flowers, in order to extend the life of cut flowers, three main problems must be solved, namely supplying necessary nutrients, preventing vascular blockage, and inhibiting ethylene synthesis. Peony cut flowers cut at the bud stage, after 24 hours of STS treatment, then stored dry in a cold room at 0-2°C for 3 months, still have a vase life and ornamental value close to those of fresh cut flowers after being treated with preservative solution upon removal.
Key points for peony cultivation
Mix thoroughly 30 jin of fertilizer and 2-3 jin of superphosphate per 100 jin of sandy loam soil, then spray with water and pile to compost for 1-2 months. For courtyard planting, pits must also be dug in advance in winter.
"Divide peonies at the Spring Equinox, and they will never bloom even when old" has been proven by many years of practice. The best period for planting and division propagation of peonies is from late September to early October. During this period, do not do it earlier, and even more so do not delay it. Peony is a deep-rooted flower, so deep pots should be chosen for planting. For home flower growing, generally a deep pot with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 40 cm-50 cm is best, and planting 2-3 plants per pot is appropriate. Attention should be paid to cultivation techniques: first spread 3 cm-5 cm of coal cinders as a drainage layer, then fill 15 cm-20 cm of prepared potting soil, then place the seedlings upright and spread out in the pot, straighten the root system, and then add potting soil, pressing lightly while filling so that the roots and soil are fully combined. The filling height should preferably exceed the top of the root buds by 4 cm-5 cm. Water thoroughly to settle the roots, and place in a ventilated, sunny place for care.
When the root buds emerge in early spring, combine with watering and lightly apply once a dilute liquid fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer to accelerate vegetative growth. By mid-April, peonies enter the bud stage, at which time they shift from mainly vegetative growth to mainly reproductive growth. From bud appearance to flowering takes about one month. During this period, apply 1-2 times a compound fertilizer (2 jin fertilizer mixed with 100 jin water) and spray 2-3 times a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution to promote large flowers and brilliant color. After the flowering period, promptly cut off faded flowers to reduce nutrient consumption within the plant. At the same time, apply once a liquid fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer to accelerate the growth of young buds at the roots. In winter, peonies enter dormancy, and their water demand decreases. As long as the soil retains some moisture, it is sufficient, but an appropriate amount of well-rotted cake fertilizer or barnyard manure must be buried in combination with intertillage and loosening to supplement the nutrients consumed in the soil and lay a foundation for strong seedlings the following spring.
Peony propagation methods
The traditional propagation methods for peonies are division, sowing, cuttings, layering, and other methods, among which division is the easiest and most widely used. The sowing method is only used to breed new varieties, produce rootstocks for grafting tree peonies, and for medicinal material production. The rapid propagation of ornamental varieties is an urgent issue to be solved, and hopes have long been placed on tissue culture. Much work has been done both domestically and abroad. Although progress has been made so far, there is still a considerable distance from practical application.
Division method
Division is the most commonly used propagation method for peonies. Seedling production in peony-producing areas basically uses this method for propagation. It has three advantages: first, it flowers earlier than the sowing method; sown seedlings flower in 4-5 years, while divided seedlings can flower the next year; second, the division operation is simple and easy, saves labor in management, and is conducive to wide application; third, it can maintain the excellent traits of the original variety. The disadvantage is that the propagation coefficient is low. A three-year-old mother plant can only be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, which makes it difficult to adapt to and meet the needs of modern large-scale production and the continuously rapidly growing domestic and international flower market. This has always been a major problem troubling peony seedling production.
1. Time for division
In theory, peony division can be carried out from the time the overwintering buds are full until the ground freezes. However, timely division and planting, while the soil temperature is still high, is beneficial to the healing of root wounds and can promote new root growth, enhance cold and drought resistance, and lay the foundation for sprouting and growth the following year. Do not divide too early, lest autumn growth occur and affect growth and development the following year; nor should it be divided too late, when the soil temperature can no longer meet the needs of peony root development, resulting in poor growth of new plants the following year. If delayed until spring for division and planting, the buds sprout and emerge from the soil. Because spring temperatures gradually rise, air humidity is low, and transpiration is high, the root system is injured after division and cannot normally absorb water and nutrients, causing the divided plants to grow very weakly or even die. Therefore, there is an agricultural proverb in China: "Divide peonies at the Spring Equinox, and they will never bloom even when old." The suitable period for peony division is generally earlier than that for tree peonies. The agricultural proverb of Heze, "Peonies in the seventh month, tree peonies in the eighth month" (referring to lunar months), means that in Heze, peonies can be divided from the end of August until late September (from End of Heat to Autumn Equinox). In Yangzhou, division is done from late September to early November. Divided seedlings can be divided again after three or four years of growth. If not divided for many years, the root system becomes old and decayed, the plant grows weakly, and flowering is poor.
2. Division method
When dividing, carefully dig up the fleshy roots and minimize root injury. After digging up, remove the old soil, cut away old, hard, and decayed parts, and split along natural gaps by hand or with a sharp knife. Generally, each plant can be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, each with 3-5 or 2-3 buds. When there are few mother plants and the planting task is large, each daughter plant can also have 1-2 buds, but recovery growth will be slower. When dividing, thick roots should be retained. If the soil is moist, peony roots are brittle and easily broken, so they can be dried for one day before division. After division, dry them slightly in the shade and dip them in nutrient-containing mud before planting. In garden green spaces, where peonies have been planted for many years and their growth is gradually weakening and they urgently need replanting, but the flowering period cannot be affected for visitors' viewing due to propagation, the in-place division method can be used. Use a spade to dig a deep hole beside the peony plant, expose part of the peony roots, then use a sharp shovel to cut and divide the peony plant, minimizing disturbance to the original plant, take out the divided portion, and carry out division and planting as above. Generally, cutting off half of the original plant is appropriate. The deep hole dug out can be filled with an appropriate amount of fertilizer mixed with soil and compacted. Row-by-row or plant-by-plant replanting can also be used. In this way, division and rejuvenation can be carried out without affecting the landscape, only requiring continuous division for 2-3 years. However, because peonies are not suitable for continuous cropping, the row-by-row or plant-by-plant replanting method cannot be applied continuously; otherwise, pests and diseases will occur severely, growth will be poor, and even the mortality rate will increase greatly.
When peonies are cultivated for medicinal use, peony-producing areas mostly use peony heads for division propagation. In autumn, dig out the mother plants, cut off all thick roots for medicinal use, and use the bud-bearing peony heads as propagation material. First remove peony heads without buds and with diseased parts, cut the peony heads into blocks, each with 2-3 strong buds, with a thickness of 2 cm. If too thick, the main root will not be strong and will branch too much; if too thin, nutrients will be insufficient. It is best to plant as soon as they are cut. If they cannot be planted in time, do not cut them; the peony heads can be stored in sand for later use. Planting is suitable from early August to late September.
3. Management after division
The planting depth should preferably have the buds about 2 cm into the soil. Too deep is not conducive to sprouting and easily causes root rot, yellowing leaves, and poor growth; too shallow is not conducive to flowering and makes them susceptible to freezing damage, and even the root crown may be exposed above the ground. In summer, under scorching sun, this can lead to death. If the divided root clump is relatively large (with 3-5 buds), it may bloom the next year, but the flowers will be small, so it is better to remove them to allow the plant to grow well. If the root clump is small (2-3 buds), it will grow poorly or not bloom the next year, and generally needs 2-5 years of cultivation.
Sowing method
The fruit of peony is a follicle, and each follicle contains 1-7 seeds. When the seeds mature, the follicle splits open and releases the seeds. Fruit ripening periods vary by region. For example, Mudanjiang in Heilongjiang Province in early September, Heze in Shandong in late August, Luoyang in Henan in early to mid-August, and Yangzhou in Jiangsu around late August. Seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection; as sowing time is delayed, seed moisture content decreases and germination rate declines. Seeds have the characteristic of double dormancy of the epicotyl and hypocotyl. After sowing, autumn soil temperatures cause the hypocotyl to break dormancy, and the radicle develops and roots. The better the rooting in the current year, the more vigorous the growth the following year; if sowing is too late, the soil temperature cannot break hypocotyl dormancy, rooting cannot occur, and the germination rate the following spring is greatly reduced. After rooting in autumn sowing, after a long period of low temperature in winter, epicotyl dormancy can be broken. When temperatures rise and humidity is suitable the following spring, the plumule emerges from the soil.
Because the offspring produced by sowing garden varieties of peonies will segregate in traits and cannot maintain the excellent traits of the original variety, the sowing method cannot be used for the propagation of variety seedlings.
1. Seed collection
The seeds can be harvested when the follicle fruits turn yellow. If too early, the seeds are not mature; if too late, the seed coat turns black and hard, making emergence difficult. Fruits mature at different times and should be harvested in batches. When the fruit skin splits and releases the seeds, they can be sown immediately. Never expose the seeds to the sun, as this hardens the seed coat and affects emergence. If they cannot be sown in time, they can be stored in sand with moisture retention, but they must be taken out and sown before the seeds root.
2. Sowing time
Peony seeds must be sown promptly in the same year they are collected. For example, in the Heze area, sowing is done from late August to late September. If later than late September, rooting cannot occur that year, and the germination rate the following spring will be greatly reduced; moreover, even if seedlings emerge, because the seedling root system is not well developed, it is difficult for them to resist spring drought and they are prone to death. Therefore, several spring sowing experiments in Heze all failed.
3. Sowing method
Seed treatment: Before sowing, remove shriveled seeds and impurities from the seeds to be sown, and then use water selection to remove unfilled seeds. Although the seed coat of peony is thinner than that of tree peony and absorbs water and sprouts relatively easily, if seed treatment is carried out before sowing, germination will be more uniform and the germination rate will be greatly increased, often reaching over 80%. The method is to soak the seeds in 50°C warm water for 24 hours, then take them out and sow immediately.
Bed preparation and sowing: The seedbed land should be given sufficient base fertilizer and deeply plowed and leveled. If the soil is relatively moist and suitable for sowing, beds can be made directly for sowing; if the soil moisture is poor, irrigate thoroughly first, then make beds and sow. The bed width is about 50 cm, with 30 cm between beds. Sow seeds in holes at a row spacing of 6 cm and a seed spacing of 3 cm; if seeds are sufficient, broadcast sowing can be used, with a seed spacing of not less than 3 cm. After sowing, cover with moist soil to a thickness of about 2 cm. Use about 50 kg of seed per 666.7 sq m, or about 100 kg for broadcast sowing. After sowing, cover with plastic film and remove it after sprouting and emergence the following spring. Drilling can also be used, with a row spacing of 40 cm and a seed spacing of 3 cm, covering with 5-6 cm of soil; or hole sowing, with a hole spacing of 20-30 cm, placing 4-5 seeds per hole, and after sowing, pile soil 10-20 cm high to help prevent cold and preserve moisture. Rake level before sprouting the following spring.
Other propagation methods
1. Cutting method: Choose a nursery site with higher terrain and good drainage for the cutting bed. After loosening the bed soil, spread 15 cm of river sand, and disinfect the river sand with 0.5% potassium permanganate. Vermiculite or perlite can also be used as the cutting medium. Build a shade shed 1.5 m high over the bed. According to experience in Changchun and other places, cuttings taken in mid-July give the best results. The cuttings are 10-15 cm long, with two nodes. Keep one compound leaf above with a few leaflets; cut off the lower compound leaf together with the petiole. After quickly dipping in a 500×10-1000×10 naphthalene acetic acid or indole acetic acid solution, insert the cuttings to a depth of about 5 cm, with spacing such that the leaves do not overlap. After insertion, water thoroughly, then cover with a plastic shed. According to observations, rooting is best when the medium temperature is 28-30°C and humidity is 50%. Keep the temperature inside the cutting shed at 20-25°C and humidity at 80%-90%; rooting can occur 20-30 days after insertion, and dormant buds form. After rooting, reduce spraying and watering, and gradually remove the plastic shed and shade shed. Cutting seedlings grow slowly and need to be covered with soil in the bed to overwinter, then moved to open field planting the following spring.
2. Root cutting method: Use broken roots from autumn division of peonies, cut them into 5-10 cm root segments, insert them into a deeply plowed and leveled trench 10-15 cm deep, cover with 5-10 cm of fine soil, and water thoroughly.
3. Layering method: In spring, pass young shoots that have just emerged through the drainage hole of a flower pot and lead them into a flower pot with a diameter of 15-20 cm. As they grow, gradually fill with soil and keep the potting soil moist. By summer they can root. Before winter, cut off the stem below the pot, forming a potted peony.
4. Modern tissue culture method: Plant tissue culture, namely plant aseptic culture technology, is based on the theory that plant cells are totipotent. It uses isolated peony organs, tissues, or cells (such as roots, stems, leaves, etc.) under aseptic conditions and suitable artificial culture media and conditions of light, temperature, etc., to induce callus, adventitious buds, and adventitious roots, and finally form complete plants with the same heredity as the mother plant. This technology is also called cloning technology, achieves the purpose of rapid propagation, and has wide application value.
Peony disease control
The main peony diseases include peony gray mold, peony brown spot, and peony red spot.
1. Scarab beetles
Pest species and damage: There are many kinds of scarab beetles that harm peonies, such as the black velvet chafer, the apple chafer, and the yellow-haired chafer. Their adults damage peony leaves and flowers; their larvae, white grubs, have a body nearly cylindrical, curved into a "C" shape, milky white, with a yellow-brown head, 3 pairs of thoracic legs, and no abdominal legs. They feed on peony roots, and the wounds they create also create conditions for Fusarium infection, leading to root rot.
2. Scale insects
(1) Pests and damage: Scale insects are also known as scales. There are several species of scale insects that harm peonies, such as the cottony cushion scale, the Japanese wax scale, the long white scale, the mulberry white scale, the peony round scale, and the arrowhead scale.
Scale insects suck the sap of peonies, causing the plants to grow weakly and the branches and leaves to turn yellow.
(2) Control methods
① Strengthen quarantine to strictly prevent the introduction of pest-carrying seedlings.
② Protect and utilize natural enemies.
③ Spray pesticide during the peak hatching period of eggs. Newly hatched insects have not yet developed a waxy covering on the surface and are easily killed. Spray 40% omethoate 1000-1500 times dilution, or 50% malathion emulsion 800-1000 times dilution, or 50% phoxim emulsion 1000-2000 times dilution. Spray evenly and cover the entire plant. Spraying after the waxy shell has formed is ineffective.
④ Pour carbofuran solution around the root zone. The plant absorbs the pesticide, and the insects are killed after sucking the plant sap.
⑤ When individual branches are found to be damaged by scale insects, they can be brushed off with a soft brush, or the damaged branches can be cut off and burned.
3. Aphids
(1) Damage: Aphids commonly harm peonies. After peonies sprout in spring, aphids fly in to cause damage, sucking the sap of the leaves, causing the damaged leaves to curl and turn yellow. After the seedlings grow larger, aphids often gather on tender shoots, peduncles, and the backs of leaves, causing the stems and leaves of the flower seedlings to curl and shrink, and even the whole plant to wither and die.
(2) Occurrence pattern: Under high temperature and dry conditions, aphids reproduce quickly and cause severe damage. Aphids can reproduce several generations to twenty or thirty generations in one year. Aphids secrete honeydew, which can obstruct the physiological activities of the stems and leaves of the damaged plants; at the same time, their honeydew is also a good culture medium for pathogens and often causes sooty mold and other diseases; aphids can also transmit viral diseases.
(3) Control methods
① Clear overwintering weeds.
② Protect and utilize natural enemies. The main natural enemies include the multicolored Asian lady beetle, the seven-spotted lady beetle, the yellow-spotted lady beetle, the tortoise-shell lady beetle, hoverflies, and green lacewings.
③ Spray 40% dimethoate emulsion 1000-1500 times dilution, or 80% dichlorvos 1500-2000 times dilution, or 50% menazon emulsion 1000-1500 times dilution.
Peony variety classification
There are about 35 species in the genus Paeonia, distributed in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. According to their growth habits and flower disc shapes, they are divided into two groups. The first is the Moutan group, which are deciduous shrubs or subshrubs, with a cup-shaped or disc-shaped flower disc, leathery or fleshy, completely enclosing the carpels or enclosing the base of the carpels. China has three species (excluding varieties), namely Paeonia suffruticosa, Paeonia lutea, and Paeonia delavayi. The second is the Paeonia group, which are perennial herbs, with an undeveloped flower disc that encloses the base of the carpels and is not very obvious. There are about 30 species in the Paeonia group, mainly distributed in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. Another two species are native to the Americas, and some list them separately as a group called the American Paeonia group.
The foreign species in the Paeonia group are all important flower species, among which the four most important are: Paeonia tenuifolia, with blood-red flowers, native to Bulgaria and the Caucasus; Paeonia mlokosewitschii, with pale yellow flowers, or with light green to white, native to the region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea; Paeonia wittmanniana, yellow, native to the region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea; and Paeonia peregrina, with white to deep red flowers, native to southern Europe.
China has eight species and six varieties in the Paeonia group. Among them, the one usually directly called peony is the main original species of the modern peony variety group. The eight peony species are: Paeonia obovata, Paeonia mairei, Paeonia lactiflora, Paeonia multiflora, Paeonia albiflora, Paeonia veitchii, **Paeonia and Paeonia anomala.
Classification characteristics of peony flower types
1. Single flower type: The flower is composed of a single flower.
1.1 Thousand-layer subtype: Petals increase naturally in a centripetal manner, arranged neatly, similar in shape, gradually becoming smaller from outside to inside; stamens only arise around the ovary, correspondingly decreasing as petals increase until they disappear. Flower shape is flat.
① Single-petal type: Petals in 2-3 whorls, broad, with normally developed stamens and pistils, usually referring to the original species type.
② Lotus type: Petals in 4-5 whorls, broad, similar in shape and size, stamens normal or individual stamens petaloid into fragmented petals, lanceolate petals, or filamentous petals scattered among the stamen cluster; pistils normal.
③ Chrysanthemum type: Petals in more than 6 whorls, gradually becoming smaller from outside to inside, stamens normal, relatively few in number; pistils normal, increased in number or
decreased.
④ Rose type: Petals extremely increased, gradually smaller from outside to inside, stamens all disappeared; pistils normal, degenerated and smaller, or completely disappeared.
1.2 Tower subtype: Outer petals broad, in 2-3 whorls; stamens petaloid in a centrifugal manner, pistils normal, petaloid, or degenerated. Flower shape raised or towering (except for the golden stamen type).
① Golden stamen type: Outer petals broad, in 2-3 whorls, stamen anthers enlarged, filaments thickened, stamen cluster presenting bright golden yellow; pistils normal.
② Anemone type: Outer petals broad, in 2-3 whorls, stamens completely petaloid into filamentous petals, needle-like petals, or lanceolate petals, slightly larger from outside to inside, standing upright within the outer petals; pistils normal or petaloid into ligulate petals, with the color of the ligulate petals or petal tips often being the original color of the stigma.
③ Golden ring type: Outer petals broad, in 2-3 whorls, most stamens petaloid, with the petaloid petals towering, but a ring of normal stamens remains between the stamen-derived petals and the outer petals; pistils normal or petaloid.
④ Crown type: Outer petals broad and flat, in 2-3 whorls, with a small number of filamentous petals, needle-like petals, lanceolate petals, or fragmented petals ringed closely inside the outer petals, above which are ligulate petals or lanceolate petals petaloid from stamens, upright, raised, clustered within the outer petals, with a small number of stamens in the center, or degenerated into a short small state; pistils normal or petaloid, degenerated.
⑤ Hydrangea type: Most stamens petaloid into ligulate petals, resembling secondary outer petals. When in full bloom, the whole flower is full, shaped like a hydrangea, with very few or degenerated stamens in the center; pistils smaller or degenerated.
2. Proliferative type: Refers to the phenomenon in which, when the plant blooms, the growth point in the center of the flower (or inflorescence) or between flowers differentiates flower buds again and blooms. In the center of the flower (lower flower), another flower (upper flower) forms, and the upper flower overlaps with the lower flower, thereby increasing the degree of doubleness. Some varieties are even formed by the superposition of 3 or even 4 flowers.
2.1 Thousand-layer subtype: The basal single flower (lower flower) has the basic characteristics of the thousand-layer subtype of the single flower type. Thousand-layer proliferative type (primary proliferative type): The pistils of the lower flower are normal or slightly petaloid; the upper flower generally has normal stamens and pistils. The whole flower is relatively flat.
2.2 Tower subtype: The lower flower has 2-3 whorls of petals, stamens petaloid, pistils petaloid or degenerated. The whole flower is towering.
① Colored-petal proliferative type: The pistils of the lower flower are petaloid, and many stamens are petaloid; the stamens and pistils of the upper flower are normal or slightly petaloid.
② Layered proliferative type: The petaloid pistils of the lower flower become no different from normal petals, and the petaloid stamens are shorter and smaller than normal petals; the stamens of the upper flower are also mostly petaloid into short petals, and the pistils are petaloid or degenerated. The whole flower has a distinct layered structure.
③ Ball-flower proliferative type: The petaloid stamens of the lower flower elongate and broaden to be no different from normal petals, and the petaloid pistils also become normal petals; the petaloid stamens of the upper flower are also mostly difficult to distinguish from normal petals, and the pistils are petaloid or degenerated. The whole flower is spherical.
Peony food therapy or medicinal value
The medical information and health food therapy information on Huhua.com is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problems should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and treatment of any disease should follow medical advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: To love yourself, start from reality and follow medical advice. Regarding illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Medicinal value
Peony is not only a famous flower, but its roots can also be used medicinally. The roots are fresh, crisp, and juicy. When used as medicine, red peony and white peony differ in processing methods. According to analysis, peony roots contain paeoniflorin and benzoic acid, and their uses vary by species. White peony in traditional Chinese medicine mainly refers to the root of Paeonia lactiflora. It is an antispasmodic, analgesic, and emmenagogue medicine. It is effective for women's abdominal pain, gastric spasms, dizziness, gout, diuresis, and other conditions. Generally, the roots of cultivated peony varieties are used for white peony because their roots are plump and straight, and the processed product is of good quality. Wild peony, because its roots are thin and small, is only sold as red peony. Red peony in traditional Chinese medicine is the root of Paeonia obovata. It has the effects of dissipating blood stasis, invigorating blood circulation, relieving pain, and purging liver fire. It mainly treats irregular menstruation, abdominal pain due to phlegm stagnation, joint swelling and pain, chest pain, hypochondriac pain, and other conditions.
In ancient prescriptions, there are hundreds that use white peony as the main medicinal ingredient, such as "Guizhi Tang," which uses peony to harmonize the nutritive and defensive qi of the flesh and exterior; "Huangqin Tang," which uses peony to harmonize the nutritive qi in the abdomen; and "Zhigancao Tang," which uses peony to tonify the yin fluids of the blood vessels. In obstetrics and gynecology clinical practice, peony is even more widely used.
[Nature and flavor] Bitter in taste, neutral in nature, non-toxic.
Peony functions and uses: ornamental value
Peony flowers are large and gorgeous, with abundant varieties. They are often planted in masses in gardens, and when in bloom they are very spectacular. They are a major flower in modern parks or flower beds. Or
they are planted in bands along paths and roadsides, or cultivated at the edges of woodlands, and paired with low-growing and creeping flowers. Sometimes single plants or two or three plants are planted to appreciate their special type and flower color. There are even specialized gardens composed entirely of peonies, called peony gardens. Peony is also an important cut flower, either for vases or for flower baskets. If cut when the buds are about to open and placed in a cold cellar, they can be stored for several months. The ones used as cut flowers are mainly double-flowered varieties; single-flowered ones placed in vases shed their flowers after only a few days. The ancients judged flowers: peony first, tree peony second. It was said that tree peony called itself the king of flowers, and peony was the minister of flowers. Because it blooms relatively late, it is also called "dianchun" (the last of spring).
Other values
Peony seeds can be pressed for oil for making soap and mixed with paint as a coating. The roots and leaves are rich in tannins and can be used to extract tanning extract. They can also be used as a botanical pesticide and can kill soybean aphids and control wheat stem rust, etc.
Peony cultural background: flower story
The main flower story is the Four Ministers Wearing Flowers.
Ornamental destinations
The main peony ornamental destinations in China are: Zhongjiang in Sichuan (China's Hometown of Peony, China Peony Valley 4A scenic area), Bozhou (the largest traditional Chinese medicinal materials trading market in the country), and Yangzhou. In addition, there are: Heze (Caozhou Hundred Flowers Garden), Luoyang (National Tree Peony Garden), and Beijing (Jingshan Park).
Literary classics
Peony is an important flower in Dream of the Red Chamber. In the 62nd chapter, Shi Xiangyun drunkenly sleeping in the peony garden should be one of the most beautiful scenes in Dream of the Red Chamber.
Poetry works
1. "Feeling the Peony Flowers and Sending Them to Monk Zhengyi"
Bai Juyi (Tang Dynasty)
Today before the steps, the red peonies, how many flowers are about to fade, how many are new.
When they bloom, one does not understand the comparison of forms and colors; only after they fall does one realize the body is like an illusion.
How far is it from here to the gate of emptiness? I want to ask the monk about the fallen flowers.
"Peonies Bloom in Front of the Hall of the Late Right Minister Wang Wei, and I Feel Sorrowful" by Qian Qi (Tang Dynasty)
Peonies bloom beyond the old railing; in spring clothes, hiding tears, I come to look again.
The master is gone, but the flowers remain forever, more enduring than the green pines that keep watch through the cold years.
2. "Song of Peony"
Han Yu (Tang Dynasty)
In the elder's courtyard bloom fine flowers, with no common trees competing for spring splendor. Emerald stems and red stamens are endowed by heavenly power,
This grace does not belong to the Huangzhong family. Warm, ripe, beautiful, fresh fragrance rises, like silent laughter, practicing the ways of a gentleman.
The frost knife cuts you, the heavenly maiden toils; why bow your head and imitate peach and plum? The spoiled, silly maidservant has no spirit,
Competing to pull up spring robes and come here to join. Wanting to blush both cheeks at a glance, grinding the bronze mirror all over by the green window.
A cup of spring wine sweet as syrup, this joy of the old man no one knows. Who is the singer who falls drunk before the flowers,
The mad youth of Chu, Han Tuizhi.
3. "Playfully Inscribed on the Peonies Before the Steps"
Liu Zongyuan (Tang)
Common flowers fade with the season, but your beauty flourishes this morn. Leaning red, drunk on heavy dew, slender and graceful, you keep the lingering spring.
Admiring alone as the white day darkens, the warm wind shakes you again and again. At the night window, fragrant air gathers, and lying in seclusion I feel you near.
I wish to send you as a gift from the Zhen and Wei, to the distant people of the south.
4. "After Finishing the Draft Edict, Encountering the Peony Just Blooming"
Traditional Chinese painting of peonies
Traditional Chinese painting of peonies (14 images) Bai Juyi (Tang)
Having finished the purple-clay edict, I rise and chant a poem on the red peony. After the document was sealed and sent off, it was the time the flower's mouth split open.
Sitting facing the hooked curtain for long, walking to watch with slow steps. Two or three clumps in full luxuriance, twelve leaves uneven.
Facing away from the sun the calyx slightly closes, before the steps the blossoms lean askew. Hairpin-like stalks draw out green stems, pink stamens brush yellow threads.
Trembling with boundless feeling, drooping and slanting, unable to hold up. Looking round and round, not yet satisfied, hard to convey in simile.
Like cinnabar in Goulou, like the fire-flame banner of the dwarfs. Red clouds left at the root and stem, crimson headbands lacking their tassels.
Moreover there is the clearing breeze's bearing, and still the overnight dew hanging. One suspects fragrance perfumes the painted screen, like tears upon rouge.
Deliberately lingering for me, wordlessly resenting whom? Surely sorrowing that tomorrow it will fall, as if grieving over a year's separation.
The lotus has its calyx joined in mud, the rose has thorns around its branches. Weighed equally, none is superior; only the eye and the heart know.
5. "Peony"
Zhang Bi (Tang)
Fragrance clear, powder pale, resenting the late spring, butterfly wings and bee whiskers linger on the pollen dust. Idly leaning on the evening wind, a wistful longing rises,
Quietly keeping the slow day, learning to delay. Do not take the climbing fig for a green gate, better to be a near neighbor to the rose.
If scattered and made to follow the evening rain, it would again grieve to death the one who parts.
6. "Qingping Yue: Zhang Xiushi's Peony Lyric"
Liu Minzhong (Yuan)
The tree peony flowers have fallen. In dreams the east wind is cruel.
I hear tell of your red peonies. They make one forget all spring sorrow.
Through the wall a hundred paces, fragrance comes. Several clumps fully open for me.
I'll risk lying in the pile of colored clouds, and when drunk sleep together on the green moss.
7. "Matching the Rhyme of Xu Zida's Poem on the Tree Peonies and Peonies at Prime Minister Li's Residence"
Hong Yan (Song)
The mountain lily's fair substance crowns the year, and with leftover grace it closes the ranks of a hundred flowers.
Watch the three spring months pass like a shifting shadow; plucking one with a smile, that is a whole life.
Silk gauze does not envy the beauty that topples a city, bees and butterflies can hardly peer into the prime minister's house.
Ten years in the capital with dim, sickly eyes, pitiful that wind and rain scatter the morning clouds.
8. "Red Peony"
Wang Zhe (Yuan)
This Wang Zhe knows clearly, seeing the chrysanthemum's firm integrity. So he took Chongyangzi as his name.
Just right to lean upon each other. Often he wants to compose it into poetry and song, and with pen never stopping, it comes naturally.
The heart's incense rises, printing out the immortal scripture, and at once penetrating and overturning. At once penetrating and overturning.
Early attaining the good cause, quickly pushing and pushing the deep mystery. The mysterious and wondrous, let me exhaustively examine.
And moreover eat the magic mushrooms. White vapor causes it, above and below brimming, the golden elixir forms, refined into a treasure.
Relying on the season, forever dwelling in eternal life, living in the Ten Continents and Three Isles.
9. "Red Peony"
Yuan Zhen (Tang)
The peony bursts open its red silk, the Ba hedge weaves green lattice. Dense threads pucker the golden stamens, tall flames face the stove fire.
Cut and carved red cloud petals, spread open wrapped in red mist. Smoke-light on glassy leaves, wind bends the coral blossoms.
Receiving dew, their color droops low, toward people delicate and graceful. Flushed faces weeping after drink, a little girl dressed and seated.
Gorgeous, brocade cannot match them; tender, even peach cannot compare. The clear clouds fear they will scatter, the evening sun sorrows they will fall.
For whom were they planted and grown, the delight of the heart awaited in me. To gather them truly brings much longing, how can a secret gift ever come to be?
10. Five Poems of a Spring Day
Qin Guan (Song)
One night a light thunder drops ten thousand threads, the clearing light floats on the tiles in uneven green.
The charm of peonies
The charm of peonies (8 images)
The feeling peony holds spring tears, the powerless rose lies on the morning branch.
11. "Ode to the Peony Flower"
Peonies in profusion breed buds, the warm wind hastily acts as matchmaker.
The flower fairy wishes to leave her chamber, not knowing whom she will marry.
-- Zhang Zhizhen
12. Yangzhou Slow: The Famous City on the Left of the Huai
[Southern Song] Jiang Kui
On the winter solstice of the bing-shen year of Chunxi, I passed through Weiyang. The night snow had just cleared, and shepherd's purse and wheat filled the view. Entering the city, all around was desolate; the cold water was blue of itself, dusk gradually rose, and the garrison horns moaned sadly. My heart was stricken, moved by the past and present, so I composed this tune myself. The old man of a thousand crags thought it had the sorrow of "Shu Li."
The famous city on the left of the Huai, the fair spot by the Zhuxi Pavilion, I unsaddled and rested briefly at the start of my journey. Passing the ten li of spring breeze, all was green shepherd's purse and wheat. Since the barbarian horses peered across the river, the ruined ponds and tall trees still loathe to speak of war. Toward dusk, the clear horn blows cold, all in the empty city.
Du Mu's fine appreciation, if he came again today he would surely be startled. Even with his craft of cardamom verse, his good dream of the green bower, hard to express deep feeling. The Twenty-Four Bridge still remains, the waves' heart ripples, the cold moon silent. I think of the red peonies by the bridge, for whom do they bloom year after year?
Red Peony
A man's hundred years, seventy are rare. Subtract ten years of childhood, and ten of dim old age. Altogether fifty years, half divided off by the sleep demon. Within those twenty-five years, can there be no troubles at all?
Thinking carefully, best to pursue joy early. When wine comes and flowers meet, one may laugh and be proud. Let the jade mountain topple. Facing the scene, just get deeply drunk; life is like dew on fragrant grass. Happily of late there is wine like the River Mian, to bind a thousand autumns of song and laughter.
The legend of the peony
It is said that neither the tree peony nor the peony is an ordinary flower; in a certain year when plague struck the human world, the Jade Maiden or the Flower God stole the Queen Mother of the West's immortal elixir and scattered it over the world. As a result, some became the woody tree peony, and others became the herbaceous peony, and to this day the peony still carries the word "medicine." Laughably, the flowers, leaves, roots and stems of the tree peony and peony can indeed be used as medicine; the tree peony bark is especially famous, and the Hangzhou white peony is a top-grade tonic for nourishing yin and enriching the blood. Therefore the peony is also called "the flower of women's medicine."
In the ancient West there was a similar legend, saying that the famous Greek physician Asclepius had a clever student, Paeon, who surpassed his master and even healed the wound of Hades, god of the underworld. In jealousy Asclepius killed young Paeon. Fortunately the King of the Underworld, mindful of the kindness, turned young Paeon into a healing flower, namely the peony. Westerners have always believed that the peony possesses a certain magic: wherever peonies grow, demons vanish without a trace, and it can even contend with the mandala, that most poisonous of flowers.
The difference between the peony and the tree peony
1. The most fundamental difference: the tree peony is a woody plant that can grow to 2 m tall, while the peony is a short (perennial tuberous) herbaceous plant not exceeding 1 m.
2. The tree peony blooms earlier than the peony. The tree peony generally blooms in mid-to-late April, while the peony blooms in early-to-mid May. Their flowering periods differ by about 15 days.
3. The tree peony's leaves are broad, green on the upper side and slightly yellowish; while the peony's leaves are narrow, dark green on both sides;
4. The tree peony's flowers are borne at the tip of the flowering branch, mostly solitary, with a flower diameter generally around 20 cm; while the peony's flowers are mostly clustered at the branch tips, with a flower diameter around 15 cm.
5. The tree peony is called the King of Flowers. The peony is called the Minister of Flowers.
6. The tree peony's leaves tend to be grayish green, while the peony's leaves are more glossy.
7. The tree peony has richer flower colors than the peony.
Peony pictures
Home cultivation and management of peonies
IntroductionThe origin of the name peony, according to the Materia Medica: "The peony is like 'chuoyue,' a beautiful appearance. This plant's flower is graceful, hence the name." The peony has many alternative names. In China's splendid garden of a hundred flowers, the ancients ranked the peony as the "Minister of Flowers" (the prime minister among flowers), and because the peony is herbaceous, it is also called the herbaceous peony (Cui Bao, "Gu Jin Zhu"). Its flowers are large and brightly colored, charming and graceful, hence the names "Jiaorong" and "Yurong" ("Ming Yi Bie Lu"). In ancient times people gave peony flowers when parting, to show the feeling of reluctant farewell,hence it is also named "Jiangli" and "Licao" ("Gu Jin Zhu"). Tang and Song literati called the peony "Lanwei spring"; lanwei means the last cup, and the peony blooms at the end of spring, meaning the last cup of fine wine of spring. The peony is an herbaceous flower, without a hard woody stem, like a slender willow swaying in the wind, a soft and boneless maiden, hence it is called the "boneless flower" ("Zheng Qian Hu Ben Cao"). Because its flowers are fragrant, it has the names "Luanyi" (also "Hei Qianyi"), "Liuyi" ("Guang Ya Shu Zheng") and "Xinyi" (Wang Yi's commentary on "Chu Ci: Jiu Ge"). In addition, ancient names include "Jiecang," "Baizhu," "Lishi," "Ting" ("Ming Yi Bie Lu") and so on. Abroad, the peony is also much favored, with the fine name "Queen of Flowers."
The flower of love
The peony has been China's flower of love since ancient times, and is now also hailed as the representative flower of the Qixi Festival. The Western rose is thorny, while China's flower of love,the peony, is not only beautiful but also able to heal; it reflects the Chinese nation's character and virtue, like jade and like the peony: diligent, practical, faint as peony fragrance, soft and beautiful as jade. The pink peony is like colored clouds at the horizon, and also like a shy maiden in love; the romantic, reserved peony reddens the face of spring. The custom of the Shangsi Festival and the love song "give her a peony" have been passed down from the singing of the Book of Songs all the way to the Han, Tang, Ming and Qing. In ancient China, the peony was always the melody of love, a romantic mountain song.
The flower language of the peony is "beautiful and moving," "reluctant to part, hard to part." In ancient times, when men and women associated, they gave peonies to each other to express a pledge of love or the sorrow of parting, hence it is also called "the grass of parting."
Morphological characteristicsRoot: The root consists of 3 parts: the root crown, the tuberous root, and the fibrous root. The root crown (distinct from "rhizome"; the root crown is a root, the rhizome is a stem) is the uppermost part of the root, darker in color, bearing buds; the tuberous root grows from below the root crown, fleshy, thick and strong, spindle-shaped or long-columnar, 0.6-3.5 cm thick, pale yellow-brown or gray-purple outside, white inside, rich in nutrients; the tuberous root generally does not directly produce buds, but after breaking it can sprout smaller new buds, so in autumn collecting broken roots of 5 cm or more can also propagate; the fibrous root mainly grows from the tuberous root, is the main organ absorbing water and nutrients, and can gradually evolve into a tuberous root. The peony's root, by appearance and shape, is generally divided into three types: the thick-root type, the sloping-root type, and the even-root type. The thick-root type has sparser, thick and straight-extending roots; the sloping-root type has roots extending in all directions, uneven in thickness; the even-root type has roots suitably spaced, even in thickness, and so on. The root can be used as medicine.
Buds: Clustered on the root crown, fleshy, overwintering underground in winter, sprouting and emerging from the soil in early spring as temperatures rise, water-red to pale purple-red when first born, some yellow, and after emerging from the ground the color deepens, generally becoming deep purple-red, with scales outside for protection. The peony's bud is a mixed bud, developing both into the reproductive organ--the flower--and into the vegetative organs--stem and leaves. Before sprouting, the bud is 2.5-4 cm long. After the bud emerges from the ground, its color and form also differ by variety, with colors ranging from deep purple-red to yellow-brown, and bud shapes divided into 3 types: the short-round type, the bamboo-shoot type, and the brush-tip type. The short-round type has a shorter bud body with a bluntly rounded tip; the bamboo-shoot type has a longer bud body with an acute tip, like a bamboo shoot; the brush-tip type has a longer bud body with a gradually pointed tip, like the tip of a writing brush. The peony sprouting is one of the most spectacular scenes, because it embodies the germination and vitality of life, and thus has high ornamental value.
Stem: Clustered from the root, about 50-110 cm tall, herbaceous, the base of the stem cylindrical, the upper part mostly angular, some twisted, some straight-extending, the sun-facing parts mostly with a purple-red blush.
Leaves: The lower ones are bipinnately trifoliolate compound leaves, that is, the end of the leaf consists of 3 leaflets forming one cluster of leaves, with one cluster of leaves on each side as well; each cluster on the two sides usually consists of 4 leaflets; in the middle compound leaves, the 3 terminal leaflets remain unchanged, while the number of leaflets on the two sides begins to decrease, gradually from the original 4 to 3, 2 or 1, or even disappearing; when they disappear, only 3 leaflets remain at the end, and this is called a tripinnate compound leaf; the upper leaves are simple leaves. Leaves are 20-24 cm long; the leaflets are elliptical, narrowly ovate, needle-shaped, etc., with long and pointed tips, entire and slightly wavy margins, densely bearing white bony fine teeth along the leaf margin; the leaf surface is yellow-green, green or dark green, etc., and the leaf back is mostly powdery green, hairy or hairless. The peony's leaves also have ornamental value; in "the red lanterns glisten, the green coiled dragon," "green coiled dragon" is praise for the leaves, so it can also serve as a foliage plant.
Flower buds: The shapes include round peach, flat round peach, flat flat round peach, pointed round peach, long round peach, pointed peach, crooked pointed peach, long pointed peach, flat peach and several others. The outer whorl has 5 sepals, leaf-like lanceolate, green, decreasing from bottom to top; the inner sepals are 3 (sometimes increasing to 7), green or yellow-green, sometimes with yellow-white stripes or purple-red stripes, obovate, broadly ovate, round, elliptical or irregular.
Flowers: Generally borne singly at the tip of the stem or near the tip in the leaf axil, and some rare varieties even have 2 or 3 flowers emerging together. The original species has white flowers, flower diameter 8--11 cm, petals 5-13, obovate, stamens numerous, filaments yellow, the disk shallowly cup-shaped, wrapping the base of the carpels, apex bluntly rounded, carpels 3--5, hairless or hairy, with a beak at the tip; horticultural varieties are rich in flower color, including white, pink, red, purple, yellow, green, black and bicolor, etc., flower diameter 10--30 cm, petals up to a hundred or more, some varieties even 880, flower form variable. Flowering period May--June.
Fruit: Follicle, spindle-shaped, elliptical, bottle-shaped, etc., smooth, or with fine down, with a small pointed tip. 2-8, free, composed of a single carpel, ovary 1-loculed, containing 5-7 seeds.
Seeds: Black or black-brown, large, round, oblong or pointedly round.
Biological characteristics
Phenological periodYang Fei Emerging from the Bath
The period in which the various organs of the peony, constrained by climatic conditions, undergo corresponding changes within a year is called the phenological period. For example, in the Beijing area, peonies sprout and emerge from the soil from late March to early April; the buds bred at the underground root crown in June-July of the previous year, after growth and flower bud differentiation, sprout and emerge from the soil after spring temperatures rise; the buds are mostly a beautiful purple-red, a few varieties a delicate yellow-green, with high ornamental value. After more than 20 days of rapid growth, the new stem can reach about 2/3 of the height of a mature plant, the lower compound leaves spread flat, and the tender leaves are also purple-red or yellow-green; after the lower leaves spread flat, growth is again rapid, and in early April flower buds appear at the tip of the stem; after budding, as the stem and leaves fill out and the flower buds develop, the flowers first open in early-to-mid May; the flowering period ends in early June, with a single flower opening for 5-7 days, shorter for single-petal varieties and longer for double-petal varieties. The population flowering period (from the flowering of early-flowering varieties to the fading of late-flowering varieties) is about 25 days; after the flowers fade, the underground root crown again differentiates and develops mixed buds; the seeds ripen in August, the above-ground part dies from late October to early November, and the mixed buds borne on the root crown overwinter in the soil, sprouting and growing again the following spring. This yearly cyclical change process mainly has the following rules: first, sequence, each phenological period can proceed only when the previous phenological period is completed, and at the same time it lays the foundation for the next phenological period; second, all changes in phenological periods are produced under the combined action of certain external conditions, among which temperature is often the leading factor; third, because phenological periods change with the climate of the four seasons, phenological changes have their annual periodicity; fourth, phenological periods under certain conditions have their repeatability, and so on.
Main factors affecting flowering phenology
(1) Temperature: In the same region, the timing of the peony's flowering period is closely related to spring temperature changes. Temperature can affect the entire flowering process. With a warm spring or a cold spring, the flowering period can differ by 4-5 days or even 10-20 days.
(2) Moisture and rainfall: Moisture and rainfall have little effect on the flowering period; sufficient irrigation before flowering or encountering rainfall helps the peony bloom, with large flowers and brilliant colors; but if heavier rainfall is encountered, the flowers are damaged and fall earlier. If the soil moisture content is low before flowering, the flowers become smaller, the colors less brilliant, and the flowering period shortened.
(3) Altitude: Altitude can affect changes in temperature, light and humidity, thereby affecting the flowering period. Generally, as altitude increases, the flowering period is delayed. For example, the peonies of Luoyang finish flowering on May 14, while on Baiyun Mountain in nearby Manxian, the peonies have just shown color. When the peony flowering period in Pengzhou City, Sichuan ends, the flowers on nearby Danjing Mountain are just beginning to open. The different altitudes of cultivation sites can be used to extend the viewing period.
(4) Light: Light often accompanies temperature and has a major impact on plant growth and development and the flowering period. Insufficient light before flowering will affect flower color, making it less vivid; strong light during the flowering period, accompanied by rising temperature, will shorten the flowering period or scorch the flowers. Therefore, setting up a shade canopy during the flowering period will prolong the peony's flowering period.
Growth and development characteristics
1. Life cycle and annual cycle
The peony is a perennial herbaceous plant with persistent roots; from seed germination to death, in its life activities it goes through growth, flowering, fruiting, aging, death and other life processes, and this whole process is called the life cycle, also called the large development cycle. For a seedling plant, the life cycle can be divided into 3 developmental stages; the seedling blooms in about 4 years, and before flowering is the juvenile stage. In the first year after sowing and emergence, the plant is 3-4 cm tall, grows 1--2 leaves, the root is 8-10 cm long, the upper part of the root is thicker, about 0.4-0.5 cm in diameter; in the second spring, the plant height reaches 7--8 cm, and better-growing plants can reach 15--29 cm, with a plant spread of about 30 cm; in the third spring, a few plants already bloom, the plant height is 15-60 cm, with only one main root well developed; the plant spread is 30-40 cm; in the fourth year all plants can bloom. After entering the adult stage, growth is vigorous and flowering abundant, at the best ornamental period. As long as the environment is suitable, the adult stage can last twenty or thirty years, then enter the aging stage, until death. Division-propagated plants directly enter the adult stage, gradually aging after twenty or thirty years.
The annual cycle, also called the small development cycle, refers to the periodic developmental changes produced by the peony plant within a year as the climatic rhythm changes. It is mainly manifested in the alternating changes of the growing period and the dormant period. Among these, the vernalization stage of the dormant period and the photoperiod stage of the growing period are the most critical. The peony's vernalization stage requires a low temperature of 0°C and takes about 40 days to complete, after which the mixed bud can begin to sprout and grow. The peony is a long-day plant; the flower bud must develop and bloom under long days. After the mixed bud sprouts, if the light duration is insufficient, or under short-day conditions, it usually only grows leaves without flowering or flowers abnormally.
2. Growth and development characteristics
(1) Flower bud structure and life cycle: The peony's bud is a mixed bud, belonging to the underground bud type; after sprouting it extends above ground, both drawing out stems and leaves and unfolding buds to bloom. The mixed bud is a complex of many primordia, composed of the apical growing point, bud scales, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales, leaf primordia, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia, bract primordia, sepal primordia, petal primordia, stamen primordia, pistil primordia, etc. This bud is called the mother-generation bud, and then the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales and leaf primordia are the rudiments of the daughter-generation buds. The axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia and their axillary bud primordia do not produce bud scales and are naked buds; while the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the scales have bud scales, forming scaly buds. In spring the scaly buds sprout, and the daughter-generation naked buds extend above ground as the internodes of the mother-generation mixed bud elongate, forming flower branches or branches on the main stem; their daughter-generation scaly buds do not emerge above ground. After the above-ground part withers in autumn, the daughter-generation scaly bud located at the uppermost end of the peony's root crown becomes the "terminal bud." In fact, the peony has only one terminal bud, which is the terminal bud of the seedling after the seed germinates. The next year, this daughter-generation scaly bud sprouts and emerges from the soil, extending branches, unfolding leaves, and blooming. Therefore, the life cycle of the naked bud is 2 years, while the life cycle of the scaly bud is 3 years.
(2) Flower bud differentiation: After the peony flowers, the axillary buds of its underground scaly buds appear around August, and their apical growing points gradually produce bud scale primordia from outside to inside; by May of the following year, a growing point covered by 4 bud scales has formed, and by late June the bud scale differentiation is complete. Then the apical growing point begins to produce leaf primordia; the leaf primordia have multiple finger-like protrusions, while the bud scale primordia have only 1-3. Leaf primordium differentiation ends from early August to early September.
Growth habits
1. Temperature
The peony is a typical temperate plant, fond of warmth and tolerant of cold, with a relatively broad ecological adaptation range. In northern China it can be cultivated in the open ground, with strong cold resistance,Peonies in various colors (20 photos)
In the area of Nenjiang County in northern Heilongjiang Province, where the annual growing period is only 120 days and the extreme minimum temperature is -46.5°C, they can still grow and bloom normally and overwinter in the open field. In summer they prefer a cool climate, but they also tolerate heat quite well; for example, in Bozhou, Anhui Province, where the extreme maximum summer temperature reaches 42.1°C, they can also safely pass the summer.
2. Light
Only with sufficient light during the growing period can peonies grow luxuriantly and produce vivid flower colors; however, they can also grow and develop normally under light shade, and during the flowering period light shade can appropriately lower the temperature and increase humidity, protecting them from scorching by strong direct sunlight and thereby prolonging the ornamental period. But if shaded too heavily, it will cause spindly growth, weak growth, and failure to bloom or only sparse blooming.
Peony is a long-day plant. It differentiates flower buds during the short-day season of autumn and winter, and blooms under long days in spring. Both flower bud development and blooming must take place under long days. If the photoperiod is too short (8-9 hours), it will cause delayed flower bud development, accelerated leaf growth, poor blooming, and even failure to bloom.
3. Soil
Peony is a deep-rooted plant, so it requires deep soil layers, and it also has thick fleshy roots, making loose, well-drained sandy loam suitable. It grows poorly in clay and sandy soil; high soil moisture content and poor drainage easily cause root rot. Neutral or slightly acidic soil is preferable, and saline-alkaline land is unsuitable for planting. Fertile soil produces better growth, but care should be taken that the nitrogen content is not too high, to prevent spindly growth of branches and leaves. During the growing period, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be appropriately increased to promote strong growth of branches and leaves and beautiful blooms. Peony dislikes continuous cropping. In traditional concentrated peony production areas, planting peonies continuously in the same plot for many years is a very common phenomenon, which has already caused serious losses: not only severe pests and diseases, but also reduced yield and quality, and even large-scale death. Therefore, a scientific and reasonable crop rotation system must be implemented.
4. Water
Peony prefers an elevated, relatively dry environment and does not need frequent irrigation. Because peony has fleshy roots, it is especially intolerant of waterlogging; being submerged for 6-10 hours often leads to root rot. Low-lying wet areas are not suitable as peony production areas in our country. Every flood is almost devastating to peonies; only those in elevated places that were not submerged survived.
Propagation Methods
The traditional propagation methods for peony are: division, sowing, cuttings, layering and other methods, among which division is the easiest and most widely adopted. The sowing method is used only for breeding new cultivars, producing rootstock for grafting tree peonies, and medicinal production. The rapid propagation of ornamental cultivars is an urgent problem to be solved, and hopes have long been placed on tissue culture; much work has been done both domestically and abroad, and although progress has been made, there is still a considerable distance from practical application.
Division Method
Division is the most commonly used propagation method for peony, and nursery stock production in peony production areas basically uses this method. It has three advantages: first, it flowers earlier than the sowing method - seedlings from sowing bloom in 4-5 years, while divided plants can bloom the following year; second, the division operation is simple and easy, saves labor in management, and is conducive to widespread application; third, it can maintain the excellent traits of the original cultivar. The disadvantage is a low propagation coefficient: a three-year-old mother plant can only be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, making it difficult to adapt to and meet the needs of modern large-scale production and the continuously rapidly growing domestic and international flower market. This has always been a major problem troubling peony nursery stock production.
1. Time for Division
Theoretically, division of peony can be carried out from when the overwintering buds are plump to before the ground freezes. However, dividing and planting at the proper time, when the soil temperature is still high, is beneficial for the healing of root wounds and can sprout new roots, enhancing cold and drought resistance and laying the foundation for sprouting and growth the following year. Do not divide too early, lest autumn growth occur and affect growth and development the next year; nor should division be too late, when the soil temperature can no longer meet the peony's need for root development, resulting in poor growth of new plants the following year. If delayed until spring for division and planting, the buds sprout and emerge from the soil, and because spring temperatures gradually rise, air humidity is low, and transpiration is high, the roots are injured after division and cannot normally absorb water and nutrients, causing the divided plants to grow very weakly and even die. Hence the Chinese farming proverb: "Divide peonies at the Spring Equinox, and they will never bloom even when old." The suitable time for dividing peonies is generally earlier than for tree peonies. The farming proverb of Heze, "Peonies in the seventh month, tree peonies in the eighth month" (referring to lunar calendar months), means that in Heze, peonies can be divided from the end of August until late September (from End of Heat to Autumn Equinox). In Yangzhou, division is from late September to early November. Divided plants can be divided again after three or four years of growth. If not divided for many years, the root system becomes old and decayed, the plant grows weakly, and blooming is poor.
2. Division Method
When dividing, carefully dig up the fleshy roots, minimizing root damage. After digging up, remove the old soil, cut away old hard decayed parts, and split by hand or with a sharp knife along the natural gaps; generally each plant can be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, each with 3-5 or 2-3 buds. When mother plants are few and the planting task is large, each daughter plant can also have 1-2 buds, though recovery growth will be slower. When dividing, thick roots should be retained. If the soil is moist, peony roots are brittle and easily broken, so they can be dried for a day before dividing; after dividing, dry them slightly in the shade and dip them in nutrient-containing mud slurry before planting. In garden green spaces, where peonies have been planted for many years and their growth is gradually weakening and they urgently need division, but the flowering period and visitors' viewing cannot be affected by propagation, the in-situ division method can be used: dig a deep hole beside the peony plant with a spade to expose part of the peony roots, then use a sharp spade to cut and divide the peony plant, minimizing disturbance to the original plant, take out the divided portion, and carry out division and planting as above; generally it is advisable to cut off half of the original plant. The deep hole dug out can have an appropriate amount of fertilizer mixed with soil added and be tamped down. Row-by-row or plant-by-plant division and replanting can also be used; in this way, division and rejuvenation can be carried out without affecting the landscape, only requiring continuous division over 2-3 years. However, because peony dislikes continuous cropping, the row-by-row or plant-by-plant replanting method cannot be applied continuously, otherwise pests and diseases will occur severely, growth will be poor, and even the mortality rate will greatly increase.
When peony is cultivated for medicinal use, peony production areas mostly use peony heads for division propagation. In autumn, dig out the mother plant, cut off all the thick roots for medicinal use, and use the bud-bearing peony heads as propagation material. First remove peony heads without buds and with diseased bases, then cut the peony heads into blocks, each with 2-3 strong buds, with a peony head thickness of 2 cm. If too thick, the main root will not be strong and will branch too much; if too thin, nutrients will be insufficient. It is best to plant immediately after cutting; if planting cannot be done in time, do not cut, and the peony heads can be stored in sand for later use. Planting is suitable from early August to late September.
3. Management After Division
The planting depth should be about 2 cm of soil covering the buds. Too deep is unfavorable for sprouting and easily causes root rot, yellowing leaves, and poor growth; too shallow is unfavorable for blooming and makes them susceptible to freezing damage, and even the root crown may be exposed above ground, leading to death from summer sun exposure. If the divided root clump is large (with 3-5 buds), it may bloom the second year, but the flowers will be small, so it is better to remove them to let the plant grow well. If the root clump is small (2-3 buds), growth will be poor or there will be no blooming the second year, and generally 2-5 years of cultivation are required.
Sowing Method
The fruit of peony is a follicle, and each follicle contains 1-7 seeds. When the seeds mature, the follicles split open and release the seeds. The fruit ripening period varies by location,Peony Seeds
For example, in Mudanjiang, Heilongjiang Province it is in early September; in Heze, Shandong in late August; in Luoyang, Henan in early to mid-August; and in Yangzhou, Jiangsu around late August. Seeds should be sown immediately after collection; as sowing time is delayed, seed moisture content decreases and germination rate declines. The seeds have a double dormancy characteristic of both epicotyl and hypocotyl. After sowing, the autumn soil temperature causes the hypocotyl to break dormancy, and the radicle develops and roots. The better the rooting that year, the more vigorous the growth the following year; if sowing is too late, the soil temperature cannot break hypocotyl dormancy, rooting cannot occur, and the germination rate the following spring is greatly reduced. After autumn sowing and rooting, through the long period of low winter temperatures, the epicotyl dormancy can be broken. When temperatures rise the following spring and humidity is suitable, the plumule emerges from the soil.
Because the progeny produced by sowing horticultural cultivars of peony will show trait segregation and cannot maintain the excellent traits of the original cultivar, the sowing method cannot be used for propagating cultivar seedlings.
1. Seed Collection
The seeds can be collected when the follicles turn yellow. If too early, the seeds are not ripe; if too late, the seed coat turns black and hard, making emergence difficult. Fruits mature at different times and should be collected in batches. Once the fruit skin splits and releases the seeds, they can be sown. Never sun-dry the seeds, as this hardens the seed coat and affects emergence. If sowing cannot be done in time, sand storage with moisture retention can be used, but the seeds must be taken out and sown before they root.
2. Sowing Time
Peony must be sown promptly in the same year the seeds are collected. For example, in the Heze area, sowing is from late August to late September. If later than late September, rooting will not occur that year, and the germination rate the following spring will be greatly reduced; moreover, even if seedlings emerge, because the seedling root system is underdeveloped, it is difficult for them to resist spring drought and they easily die. Therefore, several spring sowing trials in Heze all ended in failure.
3. Sowing Method
Seed treatment: Before sowing, remove shriveled seeds and impurities from the seeds to be sown, then use water selection to remove unfilled seeds. Although the seed coat of peony is thinner than that of tree peony and absorbs water and sprouts relatively easily, if seed treatment is carried out before sowing, germination will be more uniform and the germination rate will be greatly increased, often reaching over 80%. The method is to soak the seeds in 50°C warm water for 24 hours, then take them out and sow immediately.
Bed preparation and sowing: The seedbed land should be given sufficient base fertilizer and deeply plowed and leveled. If the soil is relatively moist and suitable for sowing, beds can be made directly for sowing; if the soil moisture is poor, irrigate thoroughly first, then make beds and sow. The bed width is about 50 cm, with 30 cm between beds. Sow seeds in holes at a row spacing of 6 cm and a seed spacing of 3 cm; if seeds are abundant, broadcast sowing can be used with a seed spacing of not less than 3 cm. After sowing, cover with moist soil to a thickness of about 2 cm. About 50 kg of seed is used per 666.7 sq m, or about 100 kg for broadcast sowing. After sowing, cover with plastic film and remove it after the seedlings sprout and emerge the following spring. Drilling can also be used, with a row spacing of 40 cm and a seed spacing of 3 cm, covering with 5-6 cm of soil; or hole sowing can be used, with a hole spacing of 20-30 cm, placing 4-5 seeds per hole, and after sowing mound soil 10-20 cm high to help prevent cold and preserve soil moisture. Rake level before sprouting the following spring.
Other Propagation Methods
1. Cutting method: Select a nursery site with higher terrain and good drainage for the cutting bed. After loosening the bed soil, spread a 15 cm layer of river sand, and disinfect the river sand with 0.5% potassium permanganate. Vermiculite or perlite can also be used as the cutting medium. Build a shade shed 1.5 m high over the bed. According to experience in Changchun and other places, taking cuttings in mid-July gives the best rooting results. Cuttings are 10-15 cm long. Keep one node, one compound leaf above, retaining a few leaflets; cut off the lower compound leaf together with the petiole, quickly dip in a 500X10-1000X10 naphthaleneacetic acid or indoleacetic acid solution, then insert the cutting. Insert to a depth of about 5 cm, with spacing such that the leaves do not overlap each other. After inserting, water thoroughly, then cover with a plastic shed. According to observation, rooting is best when the medium temperature is 28-30°C and humidity is 50%. Keep the temperature inside the cutting shed at 20°C-25°C and humidity at 80%-90%, and roots can form 20-30 days after cutting, along with dormant buds. After rooting, reducethe amount of misting and watering, and gradually remove the plastic shed and shade shed. Cutting seedlings grow slowly and need to be covered with soil in the bed for overwintering, then moved to the open field for planting the following spring.
2. Root cutting method: Use the broken roots from autumn division of peony, cut them into 5-10 cm root segments, insert them into a deeply plowed and leveled furrow, with a furrow depth of 10-15 cm, cover with 5-10 cm of fine soil, and water thoroughly.
3. Layering method: In spring, pass the young shoots that have just sprouted and emerged through the drainage hole of a flower pot into a pot with a diameter of 15-20 cm, gradually fill with soil as they grow, and keep the pot soil moist. By summer they will have rooted. Before winter, cut off the stem below the pot, and a potted peony is formed.
4. Modern tissue culture method: Plant tissue culture, i.e. plant aseptic culture technology, is based on the theory that plant cells are totipotent. It uses isolated organs, tissues or cells of peony (such as roots, stems, leaves, etc.) under aseptic conditions and suitable artificial culture medium, light, temperature and other conditions to induce callus, adventitious buds, and adventitious roots, and finally form a complete plant with the same heredity as the mother plant. This technology is also called cloning technology, achieves the purpose of rapid propagation, and has broad application value.
Cultivation and Management
Peony cultivation includes ornamental cultivation, medicinal cultivation, soilless cultivation, forcing and retarding cultivation, cut flower cultivation, etc., described below.
Ornamental Cultivation
1. Site Requirements
Choose a planting site with high, dry terrain and good drainage, requiring deep, loose, fertile sandy loam. When planting in sections with relatively heavy salinity and alkalinity, soil replacement is needed; when planting in lower-lying areas, build a raised platform, and there should be an ample supply of clean irrigation water. Peony dislikes continuous cropping. Field cultivation generally requires rotation once every 3-4 years, otherwise growth weakens and pests and diseases become severe. When land limitations prevent timely rotation, deep plowing should be carried out 1-2 months before planting, to a depth of 60-100 cm. Per 666.7 sq m, 1500-2000 kg of decomposed manure or 200-250 kg of cake fertilizer can be applied. Remember that undecomposed raw fertilizer must not be applied.
2. Suitable Planting Time
Whether for sowing seedlings or divided seedlings, planting in Heze is from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox), and in Yangzhou from late September (Autumn Equinox) to early November (Start of Winter). It is generally combined with division.
3. Planting Specifications
For ornamental garden cultivation, the plant and row spacing can be 1 m x 1 m, and the planting points can be arranged in a "pinwheel" pattern; this allows uniform and rational use of the land and promotes symmetrical plant growth, but field operations are sometimes inconvenient. For ease of field management and observation records, the "square" arrangement of straight rows and columns is often used. The planting hole specifications are about 35 cm deep and 18 cm in upper diameter; the hole should be dug narrower at the top and wider at the bottom. In ornamental cultivation, thick roots are not removed; in medicinal cultivation, root-promoted seedlings after root removal are used (the practice in Dongyang, Zhejiang), with a hole diameter of about 25 cm. If the root-removed peony heads are used directly for planting, the depth can be even shallower.
4. Planting Method
Apply decomposed manure or cake fertilizer at the bottom of the hole and mix evenly with the subsoil. Before planting, treat the peony seedlings with a mixture of 700 times thiophanate-methyl solution plus 1000 times isofenphos-methyl solution to prevent pests and diseases. Hold the peony seedling by hand and place the roots spread out in the hole. When filling soil to half the hole, shake and lift the seedling so that the roots combine tightly with the soil. The lifting height of the seedling should be based on the buds being level with the ground surface; after watering, the planting hole sinks, which is exactly the suitable planting depth. If planted too deep, the buds are not easy to sprout and emerge; even if they emerge, growth and development are not vigorous. If planted too shallow, the root crown is exposed above ground and is exposed to sunlight in summer, which easily leads to death. Finally, fill the hole with soil, tamp it firm, and pile about 10 cm of soil on top to prevent cold and preserve moisture, and also as a marker and protection. Depending on soil moisture, if the soil is moist, watering after planting may be omitted; generally, water immediately after planting.
5. Field Management
(1) Removing soil and leveling beds: In the autumn of the previous year, the soil mound piled during planting must be promptly leveled before the peony buds emerge, and the bed surface leveled, to facilitate watering and field management. If the operation is late, removing the soil will damage the tender buds; if the soil is not removed, the base of the tender buds will be weakened, affecting growth.
(2) Cultivation and weeding: Throughout the growing season, cultivation and weeding should be done frequently. Deep cultivation should be carried out before the leaf canopy completely covers the ground and around the flowering period; shallow cultivation after flowering. Under normal circumstances, cultivation and weeding should be done about 10 times per year.
(3) Fertilization: Peony likes fertilizer, and there is seldom harm from over-fertilization. Especially when the flower buds show color and during bud gestation, the demand for nutrients is even more urgent. In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, according to the peony's fertilizer requirements at different developmental stages, topdressing can be applied 3 times per year. After the seedlings emerge and unfold leaves in spring, "flower fertilizer" can be applied, with the purpose of promoting vigorous plant growth and supplementing a large amount of nutrients for flower bud development and blooming. To supplement fertilizer in time, quick-acting fertilizers are mostly used; note that the proportion ofphosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be appropriately increased. After flowering, a large amount of nutrients in the plant is consumed, and flower bud differentiation and bud development must still proceed, so "bud fertilizer" can be applied. Whether sufficient nutrients are supplied in time at this time directly relates to the quality of blooming and growth the following year. Quick-acting fertilizer is still applied. Before winter, in conjunction with winter soil mounding, "winter fertilizer" can be applied, mainly long-acting fertilizer, mostly fully decomposed compost, barnyard manure, or decomposed cake fertilizer and compound fertilizer.
Topdressing application methods include hole application, furrow application and broadcast application. For one- and two-year-old seedlings, because the root system is underdeveloped, hole application between plants or furrow application between rows is often used, with a depth of about 15 cm for holes and furrows; fertilizer is applied therein and covered with soil. For plants three years or older, broadcast application is mostly used: scatter the fertilizer evenly, then combine with cultivation and weeding and deep hoeing to loosen the soil and mix it evenly with the soil. For one- and two-year-old seedlings, per 666.7 sq m, 150-200 kg of cake fertilizer or sesame paste residue (the paste liquid left after making sesame paste) can be applied as topdressing, or 1500 kg of manure. For plants three years or older, per 666.7 sq m, 200-250 kg of cake fertilizer or sesame paste residue can be used, or 2000-2500 kg of manure.
(4) Watering: Peony has a well-developed root system that penetrates deeply into the soil and can absorb water from deep soil layers; the roots are fleshy and intolerant of waterlogging, so it does not need frequent watering like open-field herbaceous flowers. However, excessive dryness is also unfavorable for growth, producing small, sparse flowers and dull flower color. It can be seen that moderate moisture is an essential ecological condition for the normal growth of peony. Therefore, in drought, timely watering is still needed, especially around the flowering period and before winter soil mounding, sufficient irrigation must be ensured. During heavy rain, special attention should be paid to timely drainage to prevent root damage.
(5) Removing side buds: In addition to the terminal main bud on the stem, there are 3-4 side buds in the upper leaf axils of the stem. To concentrate nutrients and make the terminal bud flower large, remove the side buds shortly after the buds appear. To prevent damage to the terminal bud, first keep 1 side bud, and after the terminal bud swells and normal development is no longer a problem, remove the reserved side bud. Hence the flower growers' saying: "Peony: remove the head (remove side buds); tree peony: trim the feet (remove basal shoots)." Skillfully using the difference in flowering time between main and side buds can appropriately prolong the ornamental period of peony. In the same cultivar (one whose side buds can bloom normally), select some plants, remove the main bud, and keep 1 side bud to bloom, and the flowering period can be delayed by several days.
(6) Staking: Peony flower stalks are relatively soft. Except for a few cultivars with short, sturdy plant types and fewer petals such as single-petal type, lotus type and golden-stamen type, most cultivars have flower heads drooping to the side when blooming, and even the entire plant may lean over. To maintain a good ornamental effect, after the flower buds show color, stakes should be set up to keep the flower stalks straight, the flower heads upright, and the flower posture graceful. Two staking forms are commonly used. First, the single-stake type, mostly used for cultivars with especially large flowers and relatively soft stems. When tying, insert a thin bamboo into the soil behind the flower stem, then use plastic rope or hemp rope in a figure "8" shape to tie the upper part of the flower stem 6-8 cm from the flower head to the stake. Do not tie tightly at the top of the flower stem, lest the flower head become stiff and lose its beauty. Second, the bamboo-ring type, used for general cultivars: enclose the loose plant clump with bamboo rings; the enclosed flower stems then support each other and stand upright. The size of the bamboo rings can be adjusted according to the size of the plant clump; generally two layers of bamboo rings are used, smaller on the lower layer and larger on the upper layer. Each bamboo ring is fixed with 3 or 4 small bamboo poles inserted into the soil and tied. The above two forms can be used in combination according to circumstances.
(7) Setting up shade and rain shelters: The peony flowering period coincides with the hot and rainy season. During the flowering period, shade and rain shelters can be set up to block strong light, reduce humidity, and protect from rain, so as to improve the ornamental effect and prolong the ornamental period. The shed is 2.5 m high, covered with shade netting and plastic film. Setting up the shed can prolong the flowering period by 8-10 days.
(8) Removing spent flowers: After flowering, except for plants kept for seed, promptly cut off spent flowers to avoid wasting nutrients.
(9) Cutting off aboveground parts, watering with freezing water, and mounding soil for overwintering: After late October, the aboveground stems and leaves gradually turn yellow and dry up. At this time, cut off dead leaves, sweep up dead leaves, and bury them concentrated in deep pits to avoid further spread of pests and diseases. Then, before the soil freezes in winter, water thoroughly, fertilize, and pile soil to preserve moisture and protect against cold for overwintering.
Medicinal Cultivation
Peony is often used for medicinal cultivation, and it is a very traditional Chinese medicinal material. Scraping off the root bark gives what is called "white peony"; some wild plants of the peony group, such as Paeonia veitchii and Paeonia obovata, generally do not have the root bark scraped off when used medicinally, and are called "red peony". Both are used as medicine, but their medicinal effects differ.
Medicinal cultivation is similar to ornamental cultivation, but also has its differences. The planting row spacing is 50 cm x 40 cm or 50 cm x 35 cm, that is, 3000-3500 plants per 666.7 sq m. Hole planting or furrow planting can be used. The planting stock is divided seedlings or three-year-old sowing seedlings. If divided seedlings are used, the new plants should not carry too many buds; those with 1-3 buds and 2 roots can be used. If those with 1 bud and 1 root are used, 2 plants can be planted per hole. Too many buds will cause spindly growth of aboveground branches and leaves and affect root growth. The purpose of medicinal cultivation is to grow good roots, making the roots develop quickly and grow solidly. When the plant shows buds, remove all of them at once, not allowing them to develop and bloom, so that nutrients are concentrated on root growth. Bud removal is best done on a sunny day when there is no dew. After bud removal, spray 1 application of equal-strength Bordeaux mixture to reduce infection by pathogens.
After taking the peony roots from the plants, remove the fibrous roots and grade them by thickness. After boiling and stirring, take out a root and observe it; if the water traces are all air-dried in less than 1 minute, this is the proper timing (another account says the proper timing is when the root epidermis has no water droplets attached after taking it out). Immediately take them out and soak them in cold water for about half an hour or more, then use a glass piecePeony stamps (3 photos)
, small knife, etc. to scrape off the root bark, wash clean, and dry in the air. It is best not to expose them to the scorching sun, lest the outer skin turn reddish brown. Air-drying should last about half a month; thick roots require more time, thin ones less. During the root-drying process, after drying for a few days, gather them together and let them sweat for one or two days to allow them to regain moisture, then dry them again, until the roots break with a powdery white appearance and make a sound when tapped; then they can be graded, packaged, and sold. Usually they are divided into 3 grades according to root diameter: grade one, root diameter above 4 cm; grade two, 2-4 cm; grade three, below 2 cm. All are required to have smooth outer skin, white with a pink tinge, and uniform thickness. Generally, 1 kg of fresh roots can yield 0.5 kg of dried white peony. After 3 years of continuous cultivation, about 900 kg of fresh roots are produced per 666.7 sq m, yielding 450 kg of white peony (Heze). In Dongyang, Zhejiang, white peony is prepared by first removing the root bark and then boiling, a method with local characteristics, but the medicinal effect is the same.
Soilless Cultivation
Soilless cultivation, also called hydroponics, is a technique in which nutrient solutions are formulated according to the nutrient elements essential for plant growth and development and used to cultivate plants. For the export of potted flowers, soilless cultivation must be adopted in the international flower market to prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Because it saves water and fertilizer, is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, produces good-quality products, and saves labor in management, it is increasingly widely used.
1. Cultivar Selection
Most peony cultivars perform well under nutrient solution cultivation, better than under general soil cultivation. Cultivars suitable for soilless cultivation include: 'Zidie Xianjin', 'Wulong Pengsheng', 'Zhusha Pan', 'Yangfei Chuyu', and 'Yanchi Yangbo', etc.
2. Medium Preparation
Peony has a fleshy root system, and the requirements for the medium are good aeration, fertilizer retention and water retention. Vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite and bark can be used as the medium; using a mixed medium gives better results. The mixing ratios include vermiculite, perlite and bark in a 1:1:1 ratio; vermiculite, perlite and ceramsite in a 1:1:1 ratio; or vermiculite and perlite in a 1:1 ratio, etc. In southern China, some local media such as carbonized rice hulls can be added.
3. Cultivation Forms
There are two forms: pot cultivation and trough cultivation. For pot cultivation, choose flower pots of corresponding diameter according to the size of the peony plant. Clay pots can be used; they have good air permeability and are good for plant growth, but are heavy and inconvenient to manage and use. Plastic pots are commonly used; they are attractive in appearance, light in weight, and convenient to use and manage, but have poor air permeability. When planting, spread a layer of ceramsite at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage, then plant the peony seedling, fill in the mixed medium, and add a layer of ceramsite on the surface to prevent the medium from splashing out when watering. For trough cultivation, cement or bricks can be used to build a rectangular cultivation trough with a certain drainage slope along the long axis, about 80-120 cm wide, 200-300 cm long, and 42 cm deep. Line the trough with plastic film, fill with 40 cm of cultivation medium, and plant seedlings at a spacing of 40 cm x 40 cm, with 2-3 rows possible. The planting time is the same as field planting.
4. Nutrient Solution Preparation
Wang Yueying and others of Beijing Forestry University, through analysis of the nutritional status of tree peony cultivation soil and determination of tree peony nutrient content at different growth stages, formulated nutrient solution formulas suitable for 3 different growth stages: first, used from summer to before winter, with the function of promoting buds and protecting roots; second, used before flowering, with higher phosphorus content, promoting beautiful and large blooms; third, used after flowering, serving the function of comprehensive fertilizer supplementation. This has high reference value for formulating nutrient solutions for soilless peony cultivation. The mineral element content of the nutrient solution should be between 0.1%-0.4%.
5. Irrigation System
There are the following irrigation methods:
(1) Gravity irrigation facility: commonly used in general production cultivation; relatively simple to set up, low investment, convenient management, and good use results. The cultivation trough width is 200 cm, and 4 drip irrigation tapes can be installed. The size of the nutrient solution storage tank depends on the area of the cultivation trough; generally it is sufficient for the storage tank to be 150-200 cm higher than the surface of the cultivation trough. By means of the gravity generated by the height difference of the liquid, the nutrient solution is delivered to the plant roots through the drip irrigation pipes.
(2) Power irrigation facility: mostly used for large-area soilless cultivation. The delivery of the nutrient solution in the above facility is changed from gravity delivery to power delivery. An electric pump is added as the delivery power.
(3) Micro-tube sprinkler irrigation facility: lay plastic pipes with many micropores on the bed surface, and spray the nutrient solution onto the cultivation bed.
(4) Seepage pipe irrigation facility: bury specially made seepage pipes in 2-10 cm of medium so that the nutrient solution continuously seeps outward; this saves water, irrigates evenly, and is also very convenient to operate.
6. Cultivation Management
After planting peony seedlings in the cultivation trough in autumn, irrigate with nutrient solution once every 10 days. Generally, a 1000-times nutrient solution stock is prepared and diluted when used. By the end of November, peony begins to shed leaves; stop applying nutrient solution and only water. Before winter, irrigate thoroughly with freezing water. After sprouting in early spring, begin applying nutrient solution once every 7 days; before and after flowering, once every 5 days, to ensure sufficient nutrient supply. After flowering, promptly cut off spent flowers and do not allow seed set. At different growth and development stages, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted accordingly based on differences in plant nutrient requirements; other management is the same as ornamental cultivation.
Forcing and Retarding Cultivation
The cultivation measure of using artificial measures to promote early sprouting of peony flower buds so that they bloom earlier than the natural flowering period is called forcing cultivation. Conversely, the cultivation method of using artificial measures to delay bud sprouting so that the flowering period is later than the natural flowering period is called retarding cultivation. Both are often also called flower period regulation. On the basis of the natural open-field flowering period, rationally applying forcing and retarding cultivation methods to regulate the flowering period can make peony bloom year-round.
The initial stage of flower bud differentiation in peony is later than in tree peony; its early-flowering cultivars begin flower bud differentiation at the end of August, while late-flowering cultivars delay until mid-to-late September. Most cultivars begin forming petal primordia from midNovember and then stop developing, overwintering in this state. When they sprout and grow the following spring, the flower buds continue to develop until blooming.
In order to achieve year-round supply of peony cut flowers and potted flowers, the combined method of forcing and retarding cultivation is often used to regulate the flowering period. Selecting suitable cultivars, choosing vigorous seedlings with fully developed flower buds and pure cultivar characteristics, adopting scientific treatment measures and careful cultivation management are the guarantees for success in forcing and retarding cultivation.
1. Forcing Cultivation
(1) Cultivar selection: To carry out peony cultivation, first select cultivars suitable for forcing cultivation. Generally, early-flowering cultivars are mostly chosen, which can shorten the time to forced flowering, such as 'Qiaoling', 'Mozi Lou', 'Yinhe', 'Fenrong Lian', 'Da Fugui', 'Fengyu Luo Jinchi', 'Meiju', etc.
(2) Cold storage treatment: To make peony bloom before the natural flowering period, select vigorous three- or four-year-old plants and carry out cold storage treatment. In the cold storage room, use the soil-burial cold storage method, with buds slightly exposed. During the cold storage period, check the soil moisture once every half month. If sandy loam is used, it is suitable when a handful just forms a ball in the hand. Too dry is unfavorable for forcing flowers, and too wet easily causes mildew and root rot. The humidity of the cold storage room should be maintained at 3°C. Different cultivars have certain differences in treatment humidity and treatment time. For example, if plants are cold-stored in early September and then planted, at 15°C they will bloom in 60-70 days, that is, they can be marketed in December; if flowering is needed in January-February of the following year, cold storage in October-November is sufficient.
(3) Planting in nutrient soil: Plants that have undergone cold storage treatment need to be planted in nutrient soil, with regular spraying or irrigation of nutrient solution, supplemented by hormone management, and special attention should be paid to fertilizer spraying in the later stage. Nutrient soil can be prepared from decomposed leaf mold, garden soil and sandy soil in a 2:3:1 ratio, with an appropriate amount of cake fertilizer and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer added; nitrogen fertilizer is applied as topdressing after potting. After the plants are taken out of the cold storage, first place them in a cool place to acclimatize to room temperature. When potting, cover with soil 1 cm above the buds; after watering, the buds are slightly exposed.
(4) Regulation of temperature and humidity: After the flower-forcing plants enter the greenhouse, gradually increase the temperature. The optimum growth temperature for peony is 20°C-25°C; above 30°C is unfavorable for growth. The following temperature control methods can be used: early stage 15°C-20°C for about 10 days; middle stage 15°C-25°C for about 15 days; later stage 20°C-25°C for about 20-25 days. High temperatures should not exceed 28°C, low temperatures should not fall below 12°C, and drastic temperature changes should be avoided. The relative air humidity should be maintained at 70%-80%, which can be regulated by watering, misting, ventilation, etc.
(5) Supplemental lighting: Peony likes warmth and light. During forcing cultivation in winter and spring, which is the short-day season, supplemental lighting is especially important. The photoperiod should be increased to 13-15 hours per day, so that the flower buds can fully develop and the blooms are beautiful and large.
(6) Application of hormones: Generally gibberellin (GA3) is used. When watering after potting, 2000 mg/L GA3 can be used to further break bud dormancy. When the flower bud diameter is 0.4 cm and 0.8 cm, apply 600 mg/L GA3 to smear the flower buds 2 times; when the flower bud diameter is 1.2 cm, apply 1000 mg/L GA3 once more.
(7) Other management: When the sprouts grow to 5-10 cm, remove budless shoots to avoid wasting nutrients. Afterward, pay attention to removing lateral flower buds, leaving 6-8 flowers per plant. When the flower buds are about to open, control watering, for sale or rental display. After flowering, do not water the flowers; place them indoors at 15°C-20°C, and the flowering period can reach 20-30 days. After the flowers fade, put them back in the greenhouse, and after the temperature is suitable, plant them back in the open field. If used as cut flowers, after conventional harvesting, continue careful management, nourish the roots and promote buds, for later reuse.
2. Retarding Cultivation
Retarding cultivation mostly uses late-flowering cultivars. The following cultivars can be considered: such as 'Yangfei Chuyu', 'Linglong Yu', 'Bingqing', 'Zhaoyuan Fen', 'Yanchi Yangbo', 'Hongyan Feixiang', 'Huahong Chonglou', 'Yinzhen Xiu Hongpao', etc.
To make peony bloom later than the natural flowering period, two measures can be used:
(1) Cold storage during dormancy: In early spring, dig up plants that have not yet sprouted and store them in a 0°C cold storage for later use, keeping the plants moist. According to the time when flowers are needed, depending on the season, take them out 30-45 days in advance and carry out normal cultivation; they will bloom at the desired time.
(2) Cold storage during the growing period: They can be cold-stored when the flower buds are about to open. The cold storage temperature should be higher, 3-5°C. Two to three days before flowers are needed, take them out of storage and cultivate conventionally.
The latter method can only be cold-stored in the storage for a short time and can be used to prolong the normal ornamental period. Long-term cold storage will cause spindly growth and reduce ornamental value. With the former method, if planted out of storage from April to August, they bloom in 30-35 days; if planted in March or September, they bloom in about 45 days. When summer temperatures are too high, shade treatment can be carried out, supplemented by misting to cool down, so as to prevent high temperatures from causing flower bud shrinkage and leaf scorch.
Cut Flower Cultivation
Peony (5 photos)
At present, in the total sales of the world flower market, cut flowers account for about 60% of sales. Peony cut flowers, because of their large flowers, vivid colors, long stems, good water-holding quality, and ease of storage and transport, have become a popular commodity in the world flower market. A certain quantity of peony cut flowers is exported every year, and the development prospects are very promising. The following measures should be taken for cut flower cultivation:
1. Select cultivars suitable for cut flower use
The cultivars currently available in our country were all bred for garden cultivation, and none were specifically bred for cut flower production. However, from the existing cultivars,some cultivars suitable for cut flower use can still be selected. Cultivars suitable for cut flower production should have the following conditions:
(1) High flower formation rate, floriferous type, stiff flower stalks and petioles, long branches, and relatively small leaves.
(2) Regular flower shape, vivid flower color, fragrant scent, round and neat flower buds, and tops not easily splitting.
(3) Hard petal texture, distinct layers, medium flower diameter, flowers opening upward, and little sugary secretion on the flower buds.
(4) Good water-holding quality as cut flowers and a long vase life.
(5) Plants grow vigorously, with strong growth potential, strong tillering ability, strong stress resistance, and few pests and diseases. Tolerant of storage and transport.
Through experiments, 8 cut flower cultivars were selected according to the above standards: 'Da Fugui', 'Qingyun Hong', 'Gaogan Zi', 'Liantai', 'Qiaoling', 'Qihua Lushuang', 'Zhongsheng Fen' and 'Zihong Kui'.
Famous Japanese cut flower cultivars include 'Wuyue', 'Huazhu Zhi Dian', 'Chijin Pan', 'Baiyun', etc.; famous European and American cut flower cultivars include 'Fosiva maxima', 'Nanette', 'Alice Crousse', etc.
When selecting cut flower cultivars, attention should be paid to the matching of flower colors and flowering periods, to ensure year-round or multi-season supply to the market.
2. Field Management
(1) Choose a site with high, dry terrain, convenient irrigation and drainage, sufficient sunlight, deep soil layers, sheltered from wind and facing the sun, and with neutral or slightly acidic sandy loam soil as the cut flower cultivation land. Peony likes fertilizer; apply large amounts of organic fertilizer, pay attention to increasing the content of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Nitrogen fertilizer should not be excessive, lest it cause spindly growth and affect the quality and quantity of cut flowers.
(2) For cut flower cultivation of Chinese peony, it is advisable to plant about 2,500 plants per 666.7 sq m. A plant spacing of 40 cm x 60 cm may be used. Carry out reasonable irrigation and fertilization, and control pests and diseases.
(3) For cut flowers, when the flower buds show color, cut while retaining the lower 2-3 compound leaves, so that photosynthesis can continue and flower bud differentiation is promoted. 15-20 days before flowering, spraying a 200 mg/L gibberellin (AG3) solution helps the flower stems elongate and the flower colors become vivid.
3. Post-harvest management
(1) Timely cutting: when the flower buds show color, retain the lower 2-3 compound leaves and cut off the flowering stems. The best cutting time is from early morning to 10 a.m.; if the cutting task is large, it can also be done in the evening. Once the flowering stems are cut, immediately place them in clean water in a bucket to prevent water loss.
(2) Grading and packaging: in a low-temperature room, remove leaves and grade the flowering stems; the upper 2 compound leaves and the single leaf near the flower bud are retained, while the remaining compound leaves are cut off from the base of the petiole. Wash off the sugar solution secreted on the flower buds with clean water, and divide them into five grades according to stem length: 50 cm, 55 cm, 60 cm, 65 cm and 7 cm. First wrap each flower bud in soft paper, then put on a corrugated paper tube. According to variety and different stem lengths, tie 10 stems into 1 bunch, then trim the bases evenly according to length requirements, and dip the bases into a 4 mmol/L STS (silver thiosulfate) solution for 10 minutes of pretreatment; then quickly dip them in a fungicide solution, and after drying until there are no water droplets on the leaf surface, pack the bunches of Chinese peony cut flowers into boxes for transport.
(3) Storage and preservation: according to research on the post-harvest physiology and preservation techniques of cut flowers, in order to extend the life of cut flowers, three main problems must be solved, namely supplying necessary nutrients, preventing vascular blockage, and inhibiting ethylene synthesis.
Chinese peony cut flowers cut at the bud stage, treated with STS for 24 hours, then stored dry in a cold storage at 0-2°C for 3 months, still have a vase life and ornamental value similar to fresh cut flowers after being taken out and treated with a preservation solution.
Edit this section: Chinese peony pest and disease control
Chinese peony diseases
The main diseases of Chinese peony are Chinese peony gray mold, Chinese peony brown spot, and Chinese peony red spot.
Chinese peony insect pests
1. Scarab beetles
Pest species and damage: there are many kinds of scarab beetles that harm Chinese peony, such as the black velvet chafer, the apple green chafer, and the yellow-haired chafer, etc. Their adults damage Chinese peony leaves and flowers; the larvae, white grubs, have a body nearly cylindrical, curved into a "C" shape, milky white, with a yellow-brown head, 3 pairs of thoracic legs, and no abdominal legs. They feed on Chinese peony roots, and the wounds they cause also create conditions for Fusarium infection, leading to the occurrence of root rot.
2. Scale insects
(1) Pests and damage: scale insects are also called scales. There are several species of scale insects that harm Chinese peony, such as the cottony cushion scale, the Japanese wax scale, the long white shield scale, the mulberry white shield scale, the Chinese peony round scale, and the arrowhead scale, etc.
Scale insects suck the body fluids of Chinese peony, making the plants grow weak and the branches and leaves turn yellow.
(2) Control methods
① Strengthen quarantine to strictly prevent the introduction of seedling stock carrying insects
② Protect and utilize natural enemies.
③ Seize the peak hatching period of eggs for spraying; the surface of newly hatched insects has not yet become covered with wax and they are easily killed.
Chinese peony (3 photos)
Spray 40% omethoate 1000-1500 times solution, or 50% malathion emulsion 800-**** times solution, or 50% phoxim emulsion 1000-2000 times solution. Spray evenly, and the whole plant must be covered. Spraying is ineffective after the wax shell has formed.
④ Pour carbofuran solution around the root zone; the plant absorbs the pesticide, and the insects are killed after sucking the plant body fluids.
⑤ When individual branches are found to be harmed by scale insects, they can be brushed off with a soft brush, or the infested branches can be cut off and burned.
3. Aphids
(1) Damage situation: aphid damage is commonly seen on Chinese peony. After Chinese peony sprouts in spring, aphids fly in to cause damage, sucking the sap of the leaves, making the damaged leaves curl and turn yellow. After the seedlings grow larger, aphids often gather on tender shoots, flower stalks, and the undersides of leaves, causing the stems and leaves of the flower seedlings to curl and shrink, and even the whole plant to wither and die.
(2) Occurrence pattern: under high temperature and dry conditions, aphids reproduce quickly and cause severe damage. Aphids can reproduce several generations, even twenty to thirty generations, in 1 year. Aphids secrete honeydew, which can hinder the physiological activities of the stems and leaves of damaged plants; at the same time, their honeydew is also a good culture medium for pathogens, often causing sooty mold, etc.; aphids can also transmit viral diseases.
(3) Control methods
① Remove overwintering weeds.
② Protect and utilize natural enemies; the main natural enemies include the harlequin ladybird, the seven-spotted ladybird, the yellow-spotted ladybird, the tortoise-shell ladybird, hoverflies and green lacewings, etc.
③ Spray 40% dimethoate emulsion 1000-1500 times solution, or 80% dichlorvos 1500-2000 times solution, or 50% menazon emulsion 1000--1500 times solution.
Edit this section: Variety classification
Chinese peonyThe genus Paeonia has about 35 species, distributed in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. According to their growth habits and flower disk shapes, they are divided into two groups. The first is the Moutan group, which are deciduous shrubs or subshrubs, with a cup-shaped or disk-shaped flower disk, leathery or fleshy, completely enclosing the carpels or enclosing the base of the carpels. China produces three species (not including varieties), namely Paeonia suffruticosa, Paeonia lutea and Paeonia delavayi. The second is the Paeonia group, which are perennial herbs, with the flower disk not developed, enclosing the base of the carpels, and not very obvious. The Paeonia group has about 30 species, mainly distributed in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia. Another two species are produced in America, and some list them separately as a group called the American Paeonia group.
The plants of the Paeonia group produced abroad are all important species for flowers, among which the four most important are: Paeonia tenuifolia, with blood-red flowers, native to Bulgaria and the Caucasus; Paeonia mlokosewitschii, with pale yellow flowers, or with light green to white, native to the region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea; Paeonia kavachensis, yellow, native to the region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea; Paeonia peregrina, with flowers white to deep red, native to southern Europe.
The Paeonia group plants produced in China include eight species and six varieties, among which the one usually directly called Chinese peony is the main original species of the modern Chinese peony variety group. The eight species of Chinese peony are: Paeonia obovata, Paeonia mairei, Paeonia lactiflora, Paeonia multiflora, Paeonia albiflora, Paeonia veitchii, ** Chinese peony and Paeonia anomala.
Classification characteristics of Chinese peony flower types
1. Single flower type: the flower consists of a single flower
1.1 Thousand-layer subtype: petals increase naturally in a centripetal manner, arranged neatly, similar in shape, gradually becoming smaller from outside to inside; stamens only grow around the ovary, and decrease correspondingly as petals increase until they disappear. Flower shape flat.
① Single-petal type: petals in 2-3 whorls, broad and large, with normally developed stamens and pistils, usually referring to the original species type.
② Lotus type: petals in 4-5 whorls, broad and large, similar in shape and size, stamens normal or individual stamens petaloid into fragmented petals, lanceolate petals or filamentous petals scattered among the stamen group; pistils normal.
③ Chrysanthemum type: petals in more than 6 whorls, gradually becoming smaller from outside to inside, stamens normal, fewer in number; pistils normal, increased in number or
decreased.
④ Rose type: petals extremely increased, gradually smaller from outside to inside, stamens all disappeared; pistils normal, degenerated and smaller, or completely disappeared.
1.2 Tower subtype: outer petals broad and large, in 2-3 whorls; stamens petaloid in a centrifugal manner, pistils normal, petaloid or degenerated. Flower shape raised or tall (except the golden stamen type).
① Golden stamen type: outer petals broad and large, in 2-3 whorls, stamen anthers enlarged, filaments thickened, the stamen group showing bright golden yellow; pistils normal.
② Anemone type: outer petals broad and large, in 2-3 whorls, stamens completely petaloid into filamentous petals, needle-like petals or lanceolate petals, slightly larger from outside to inside, standing upright within the outer petals; pistils normal or petaloid into ligulate petals, and the color of the ligulate petals or the petal tips is often the original color of the stigma.
③ Golden ring type: outer petals broad and large, in 2-3 whorls, most stamens petaloid, the petaloid petals tall, but a ring of normal stamens remains between the petaloid stamens and the outer petals; pistils normal or petaloid.
④ Crown type: outer petals broad, large and flat, in 2-3 whorls, with a small number of filamentous petals, needle-like petals, lanceolate petals or fragmented petals growing in a ring close to the inner side of the outer petals, above which are ligulate petals or lanceolate petals formed by petaloid stamens, upright, raised, clustered within the outer petals, with a small number of stamens in the center, or degenerated into a short small state; pistils normal or petaloid, degenerated.
⑤ Hydrangea type: most stamens petaloid into ligulate petals, resembling secondary outer petals; when fully open the whole flower is full, shaped like a hydrangea, with very few or degenerated stamens in the center; pistils smaller or degenerated.
2. Proliferate type: refers to the phenomenon in which, when the plant blooms, the growth point in the center of the flower (or inflorescence) or between the flowers differentiates flower buds again and blooms. In the center of the flower (lower flower), 1 more flower (upper flower) is formed, and the upper flower and the lower flower overlap, thereby increasing the degree of double flowering; some varieties even consist of 3 or even 4 flowers overlapping.
2.1 Thousand-layer subtype: the basal single flower (lower flower) has the basic characteristics of the thousand-layer subtype of the single flower type. Thousand-layer proliferate type (primary proliferate type): the pistils of the lower flower are normal or slightly petaloid; the upper flower generally has normal stamens and pistils. The whole flower is relatively flat.
2.2 Tower subtype: the lower flower has petals in 2-3 whorls, stamens petaloid, pistils petaloid or degenerated. The whole flower is tall.
① Colored-petal proliferate type: the pistils of the lower flower are petaloid, and many stamens are petaloid; the stamens and pistils of the upper flower are normal or slightly petaloid.
② Layered proliferate type: the petaloid pistils of the lower flower become no different from normal petals, and the petaloid stamens are shorter and smaller than normal petals; the stamens of the upper flower are also mostly petaloid into short petals, and the pistils are petaloid or degenerated. The whole flower has an obvious layered structure.
③ Ball-flower proliferate type: the petaloid stamens of the lower flower elongate and widen to be no different from normal petals, and the petaloid pistils also become normal petals; the petaloid stamens of the upper flower are also mostly difficult to distinguish from normal petals, and the pistils are petaloid or degenerated. The whole flower is spherical.
Edit this section: Application value
Medicinal valueWhite peony root
Chinese peony is not only a famous flower, but its root can also be used as medicine. The root is fresh, crisp and juicy; when used as medicine, red peony root and white peony root are different processing methods. According to analysis, Chinese peony root contains paeoniflorin and benzoic acid, and the uses vary by species. White peony root in traditional Chinese medicine mainly refers to the root of Chinese peony, and it is an antispasmodic, analgesic and emmenagogue medicine. It is effective for women's abdominal pain, stomach spasms, dizziness, gout, diuresis and other conditions. Generally, the roots of cultivated Chinese peony varieties are used as white peony root, because their roots are thick, large and straight, and the processed finished product is of good quality. Wild Chinese peony, because its roots are thin and small, is only sold as red peony root. Red peony root in traditional Chinese medicine is the root of Paeonia obovata, and has the effects of dissipating blood stasis, activating blood circulation, relieving pain, and purging liver fire; it mainly treats irregular menstruation, abdominal pain due to phlegm stagnation, joint swelling and pain, chest pain, hypochondriac pain and other conditions.
There are hundreds of ancient prescriptions using white peony root as the main medicine, such as "Guizhi Tang" using Chinese peony to harmonize the nutritive and defensive qi of the flesh and exterior; "Huangqin Tang" using Chinese peony to harmonize the nutritive qi in the abdomen; "Zhigancao Tang" using Chinese peony to tonify the yin fluids of the blood vessels. In obstetrics and gynecology clinical practice, Chinese peony is even more widely used. For example:
Ornamental value
Chinese peony flowers are large and gorgeous, with rich varieties. In gardens they are often planted in masses, and when in bloom they are very spectacular, making them a main flower in modern parks or flower beds. They may also be planted in bands along small paths and roadsides, or cultivated at the edges of woodlands, and matched with low-growing, creeping flowers. Sometimes single plants or two or three plants are planted to appreciate their special plant type and flower color. There are even specialized gardens composed entirely of Chinese peony, called Chinese peony gardens. Chinese peony is also an important cut flower, either for vases or for flower baskets. If cut when the flower buds are about to open and placed in cold storage, they can be stored for several months. The ones used as cut flowers are mainly double-flowered varieties; single-flowered ones placed in vases shed their flowers after a few days. The ancients judged flowers: Chinese peony first, tree peony second, saying that tree peony calls itself the king of flowers, and Chinese peony is the prime minister of flowers. Because it blooms relatively late, it is also called "late spring".
Other value
The seeds of Chinese peony can be pressed for oil for making soap and for mixing with paint as a coating. The roots and leaves are rich in tannins, can be extracted to make tannin extract, and can also be used as a traditional pesticide, able to kill soybean aphids and control wheat stem rust, etc.
Edit this section: Flower story
The main flower story is Four Prime Ministers Wearing Flowers.
Edit this section: Famous Chinese peony viewing destinations in China
The main famous Chinese peony viewing destinations in China are: Bozhou (the largest traditional Chinese medicinal materials trading market in the country), Yangzhou. In addition there are: Heze (Caozhou Hundred Flowers Garden), Luoyang (National Tree Peony Garden), Beijing (Jingshan Park).
Edit this section: Differences between Chinese peony and tree peony
1. Chinese peony is a perennial tuberous-root herbaceous plant; tree peony is a deciduous shrub, a woody plant.
2. Chinese peony leaves are relatively narrow, and both sides are dark green; tree peony leaves are broad, with the upper side green and slightly yellow-green,
3. The flowers of Chinese peony mostly grow at the tips of branches, and the smaller flower buds growing in the leaf axils generally cannot bloom normally, but a few rare varieties can bloom, with a flower diameter of about 10-30 cm; the flowers of tree peony are borne at the tips of flowering branches, mostly solitary, with a flower diameter generally about 15-30 cm; 4. Different flowering periods: tree peony generally blooms in mid-to-late April, while Chinese peony blooms in early-to-mid May, with a difference of about 15 days between the two flowering periods.