What are the precautions for growing cyclamen

Proper cyclamen cultivation methods can extend the flowering period and produce vivid flower colors. When growing them, special attention should be paid to fertilizer and water management, ventilation and shading, and repotting.

1. Strengthen fertilizer and water management. During the growth and development period, fertilize cyclamen once every ten days, and gradually expose it to more sunlight so the leaf stalks do not grow too long and affect its appearance. When the flower stalks emerge and the buds are about to open, apply an additional dose of bone meal or superphosphate. In the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, it can bloom around New Year's Day. Stop applying nitrogen fertilizer during the flowering period and control watering; especially on rainy and snowy days, water must not be poured on the flower buds and tender leaves, otherwise they easily rot and normal flowering is affected. After flowering, apply bone meal once more to promote fruit development and seed maturation. Around May the fruit begins to mature; after harvesting, peel open the fruit skin, take out the seeds, dry them in a ventilated place, and store them. In the early growth stage, cyclamen can use a 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer, that is, 20% nitrogen (n), 20% phosphorus (p2o5), and 20% potassium (k2o). During the flowering period, a 15-15-20 water-soluble high-efficiency nutrient solution specially formulated for potted flowers can be used.

2. Pay attention to ventilation and shading. During the growth period, always pay attention to indoor ventilation and shading for cyclamen. When the leaves are lush, widen the spacing between pots to avoid crowding that causes the leaves to turn yellow and rot. Around the Spring Festival, cyclamen enters its full flowering period; on sunny days, ventilation should be adjusted to prevent excessive indoor humidity, which can cause flowers to wilt and flower stalks to develop water-soaked rot. The fruiting period coincides with rising temperatures, and the amount of watering increases accordingly. Strictly prevent excessively high indoor temperature and humidity, and pay attention to ventilation adjustment to avoid rotting of the flower stems and mold on the fruit. In mid-June, the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, and the corm enters dormancy. Place the dormant corm in a well-ventilated, cool place and maintain a certain humidity. If it is too wet, the corm easily rots; if it is too dry, sprouting and flowering are delayed.

3. Repot at the right time. Generally, in mid-September the dormant corm begins to sprout, so repot immediately, and do not cover the corm with the potting soil. When the newly repotted cyclamen corm is producing new roots, watering should not be excessive to prevent the corm from rotting; the potting soil is best kept slightly dry.

Cyclamen cultivation methods:

Cyclamen can be propagated by sowing, dividing the tuber, and tissue culture, but in production, seed propagation is mainly used. Sowing is usually carried out from September to November. The substrate used for sowing can be perlite, vermiculite, coal cinders, sawdust, and other soilless cultivation substrates. Before sowing, the seeds and substrate need to be disinfected; the substrate can be sterilized with high temperature or chemicals, and the seeds need to be soaked in 30-40°C warm water for 1 day and night. If the seeds carry a virus, they also need virus-free treatment. When sowing, rub the seed coat clean, sow them in a shallow pot or sowing bed at a spacing of 1.5-2 cm, cover with substrate about 0.5-0.7 cm thick, water thoroughly, and keep the substrate moist.

At a temperature of 20-25°C, roots can form in about 20 d, and germination occurs in about 1 month, with cotyledons growing out. At this point, the young seedlings can be given light to facilitate photosynthesis. When more than 75% have emerged, apply a nutrient solution once every 10 d, with a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratio of 1:1:10. When the seedlings have grown 2-4 true leaves, carry out the first seedling division (usually in March-April), move the small seedlings into flower pots with a diameter of 10 cm, and after the seedlings recover, enter normal maintenance management. Dividing the tuber is done when the dormant corm sprouts new buds (about September-October). Cut the tuber into several parts according to the number of bud clusters, with each cut piece having buds, coat the cut surfaces with plant ash or sulfur powder, place them in a cool place to dry the cuts, and then cultivate them as new plants.

Soilless cultivation techniques for cyclamen:

Soilless cultivation of cyclamen is mainly based on substrate pot culture. The cultivation substrate can be made by mixing vermiculite, peat, furnace slag, sawdust, sand, carbonized rice husk, etc. in different proportions, such as vermiculite:sawdust:sand at 4:4:2 or furnace slag:peat:carbonized rice husk at 3:4:3. At the seedling stage, clay pots are preferable, with 3-4 cm thick coarse coal cinders placed at the bottom of the pot and the mixed substrate on top. Operate carefully when planting the seedlings, taking care not to damage the root system. After spreading out the fibrous roots, add the substrate, press gently, leave 1/3 of the corm exposed, and water thoroughly with nutrient solution (diluted 3-5 times).

Cyclamen likes fertilizer, but fertilization needs to be uniform. Normally, water with nutrient solution once a week, and according to weather conditions, spray with clear water once every 2-3 d. Because the substrate is loose and breathable and retains water and fertilizer, it can meet the various needs of small seedling growth. Ten leaves is an important stage for cyclamen, generally appearing in May-June, when it enters the stage of simultaneous vegetative growth and reproductive growth. In cool areas, the second transplanting can be carried out at this time, planting in plastic pots, ceramic pots, or porcelain pots with a diameter of 15 cm, using the same method as before. In summer, pay attention to cooling and ventilation, preserve existing leaves, and control fertilizer and water to prevent the plants from growing excessively. In addition, pay attention to disease and pest prevention, and spray fungicides and insecticides such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, dimethoate, and dichlorvos.

At the end of August, as the weather gradually turns cooler, cyclamen gradually resumes growth and grows many new leaves. At this time, pay attention to strengthening light and fertilization, water with nutrient solution once a week at normal concentration, and spray the leaves with 0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution about once every 10 d. Entering October-November, leaf growth slows down, flower bud development clearly accelerates, and the flowering period begins. At this time, the suitable conditions are 24,000-40,000 lx of light, a temperature of 12-20°C, and humidity of about 60%. Temperature is the main means of controlling the flowering period. Generally, under a temperature of 10°C, the flowering period can be delayed by 20-40 d. Gray mold is prone to occur during the flowering period, so ventilation and chemical control should be strengthened.

The above is an introduction to cyclamen cultivation techniques. Friends who like growing cyclamen can refer to these techniques and carry out scientific cultivation according to actual conditions.