What to do when water lily leaves turn yellow and black? 6 solutions to the problems of too little water and too much fertilizer

As a beautiful flower, the water lily is often grown in pots at home by flower lovers, and the beautiful scene when it blooms is truly unforgettable. However, during the growing process, water lilies can develop serious problems for various reasons, such as water lily leaves turning yellow or water lily leaves turning black. So what should you do when water lily leaves turn yellow and black? The following is a bit of experience from the editor; flower lovers with this problem should definitely take a look~

1. What to do when water lily leaves turn yellow and black: find the cause

The water lily is a hydroponic plant that many people like to grow, because it is not only beautiful but also very easy to grow, and basically thrives even with neglect. However, if left completely unattended, water lilies often show symptoms of leaves turning yellow and black. As for what to do when water lily leaves turn yellow and black, the editor will explain the two separately.

(1) Water lily leaves turning yellow has two causes

There are actually many causes of water lily leaves turning yellow, but the two main ones are:

1. Too little watering/water shortage: new leaves will wither and turn yellow. Solution: increase the frequency of watering.

2. Air humidity too low: a dry environment easily causes water lily new leaves to wither and turn yellow. When the air feels dry, besides watering the water lily, you should also spray water around it.

(2) Water lily leaves turning black has four causes

The water lily is a common aquatic plant, and because it looks beautiful, many people grow it at home. But during growing, many flower lovers find their water lily leaves turn black. What is going on? According to the editor, there are 4 causes of this phenomenon:

1. Too much fertilizer

There are many causes of water lily leaves turning black, and the most likely one is too much fertilizer. During the growing period, if too much fertilizer is applied, the water lily's leaves will decrease and its ability to absorb water will drop, thus causing the leaves to turn black.

Solution: after discovering that the blackening of the leaves is caused by too much fertilizer, flower lovers should immediately change the water; at this time, first change half of it, keeping the water temperature similar. If too much base fertilizer was applied at planting time, then the pot needs to be turned out and the soil replaced.

2. Infection by pathogens

Besides fertilizer, infection by pathogens is also one of the causes of water lily leaves turning black. Once a water lily is infected by pathogens, not only will the leaves turn black, but various other problems will also appear.

Solution: during the water lily's growing period, if it becomes infected by pathogens, flower lovers should cut off the blackened leaves and then spray with a carbendazim solution.

3. Insufficient light

In the methods for growing water lilies, we especially emphasized the importance of sufficient light. This is because once there is too little light, water lily leaves will turn black, and in severe cases they will even rot.

Solution: for insufficient light, naturally you need to strengthen sunlight exposure; it is best to ensure 7-8 hours of light per day.

4. Unclean water quality

Besides the above points, unclean water quality is also one of the causes of water lily leaves turning yellow. This is because when the water is relatively dirty, the water lily's leaves easily turn black.

Solution: if it is a water quality problem, it is very simple; everyone just needs to replace it with clean water. Note: when changing the water, pay attention to the water temperature, so as to avoid changes in the water's pH.

A Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part One)

1．What are the benefits of growing flowers？
With their brilliant elegance, flowers decorate nature extraordinarily beautifully and give people aesthetic enjoyment. Growing flowers can enrich and regulate people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament, and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and raise cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of the motherland, protect and improve it, purify the air, and enable people to work and study in a beautiful environment, making life better. Growing flowers is not only for ornamental enjoyment, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of China's traditional Chinese herbal medicine; honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, rhododendron, Chinese rose, lotus and others are all commonly used medicinal herbs. Fragrant flowers are widely used in food, light industry and other fields; for example, osmanthus can be used as a food fragrance and for brewing wine, jasmine, bailan (Michelia alba), daidai (bitter orange), and zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus) can be used to scent tea, and chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes. Bailan flower, jasmine, rose, wintersweet, narcissus and others can be used to extract essential oils. Growing flowers can also earn foreign exchange and accumulate funds. For example, the high-grade essential oil extracted from roses, rose oil, is regarded on the international market as "liquid gold," and its value is even higher than gold.

2．What categories are flowers divided into？
China has long been known as the "Mother of Gardens," with abundant flower resources and a great variety of species. To facilitate cultivation, management and use, it is necessary to understand the knowledge of flower classification. Because the bases for classification differ, the classification methods also differ. According to the morphological characteristics of flowers, they are usually divided into two major categories: herbaceous flowers and woody flowers. Those with soft stems are called herbaceous flowers, and those with hard, woody stems are called woody flowers. According to growth habits and morphological characteristics, they can generally be divided into herbaceous flowers, woody flowers, succulent flowers and aquatic flowers. Herbaceous flowers, according to differences in their growth and development cycles, can further be divided into annual herbaceous flowers, biennial herbaceous flowers, perennial flowers, bulbous flowers and lawn plants. Woody flowers, according to differences in trunk height and canopy size, can further be divided into trees, shrubs and vines. Succulent flowers have thick, fleshy stems and leaves and store abundant water in their bodies; some leaves are reduced to needle-like or feather-like forms, with peculiar shapes, so they form a category of their own in horticultural cultivation. Aquatic flowers grow year-round in water and marshy areas, and most are perennial plants. According to the ornamental part, flowers can be divided into flower-viewing types (mainly for enjoying flower color and flower shape, such as chrysanthemum and Chinese rose), foliage-viewing types (mainly for enjoying leaf color and leaf shape, such as croton and Caladium bicolor), fruit-viewing types (mainly for enjoying fruit, such as kumquat), stem-viewing types (mainly for enjoying branches and stems, such as Euphorbia tirucalli and Cereus pitajaya), and bud-viewing types (mainly for enjoying buds, such as silver pussy willow). According to use, flowers can be divided into cut flowers (such as carnation and calla lily), indoor flowers (such as clivia and Monstera deliciosa), courtyard flowers (such as Chinese rose and chrysanthemum), medicinal flowers (such as peony and honeysuckle), fragrance flowers (such as bailan, jasmine, and rose) and edible flowers (lily, daylily, and pomegranate). In addition, based on the climatic conditions of the flowers' places of origin and according to natural distribution, flowers can be divided into tropical flowers, subtropical flowers, warm temperate flowers, temperate flowers, subcold temperate flowers, alpine flowers and so on. This classification method can reflect the habits of various flowers and the conditions that must be met for their growth and development during cultivation.

3．What are bulbous flowers？

Bulbous flowers refer to perennial herbaceous flowers whose underground stems or roots have become metamorphosed and are spherical or similar in shape. According to the morphological structure of their underground stems or roots, they can be roughly divided into 5 major categories: (1) Bulb type. The underground stem is scale-like. Those covered with a papery outer skin are called tunicate bulbs, such as tulip, narcissus, and Hippeastrum; those whose scales are not covered by an outer skin are called non-tunicate bulbs, such as lily. (2) Corm type. The underground stem is spherical or flattened spherical, covered with a leathery outer skin, such as gladiolus and freesia. (3) Rhizome type. The underground stem is thick and root-like, with obvious nodes on it, and new buds grow at the tips of branches, such as canna, ginger lily, lotus, water lily, and hosta. (4) Tuber type. The underground stem is irregularly block-shaped or strip-shaped, such as calla lily, cyclamen, gloxinia, and tuberose. (5) Tuberous root type. The main underground root is enlarged and block-shaped, and the root system grows from the end of the tuberous root, such as dahlia.

A Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part One)

7．What effect does moisture have on the growth and development of flowers？

Water is an essential condition for the growth and reproduction of flowers. It has an enormous effect on their growth and development. Because if water absorption exceeds consumption, there is too much water in the flower's body, the plant becomes especially slender and weak, cold resistance declines, and stress resistance weakens. If there is excessive water for a long time, it will cause root rot, leaf drop, and even death. If water absorption is less than consumption, due to water shortage the flower wilts, and severe water shortage will cause the flower to wither and die. There are many varieties of flowers, and their water requirements also differ; even for the same kind of flower, water requirements differ at different stages of growth. According to different water requirements, flowers can generally be divided into 3 types: xerophytes, hydrophytes and mesophytes. (1) Xerophytic flowers. Such as plum blossom, crape myrtle, Malus spectabilis, hollyhock, and nandina, as well as succulent flowers, are relatively drought-tolerant. (2) Hydrophytic flowers. Such as lotus, water lily, calamus, and water bamboo. (3) Mesophytic flowers. Flowers that can grow well in moist soil. The vast majority of flowers belong to this type, such as magnolia, bailan, wintersweet, peach blossom, camellia, and redbud.

8．What effect does air humidity have on flowers？

9．Why do flowers die from too much watering？

A Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part One)

10．What harm is there from insufficient watering of potted flowers?
Because potted flowers have little soil and do not store much water, during the growing season they need regular supplemental water to ensure normal growth. If the water supply is insufficient, leaves and petioles will shrink and droop, and the flower will show wilting. If water is insufficient for a long time, the older leaves and the lower leaves of the plant will gradually yellow and dry up. If most herbaceous flowers remain in a drought state for a long time, the plants become stunted, the leaves lose their fresh green luster, and the whole plant may even wither and die. Some flower growers, fearing excessive watering, each time water only "half-way water," that is, the amount watered only moistens the surface soil while the lower soil remains dry. This watering method also affects the development of the flower's root system and can produce the above harmful phenomena. Therefore, watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet, and when watering, water thoroughly.

11．How to judge whether potted flowers lack water？

A Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part One)

13．What kind of water is good for watering flowers？
Water can be divided into hard water and soft water according to its salt content. Hard water contains more salts; using it to water flowers often causes brown spots on the leaf surface, affecting the ornamental effect, so soft water is preferable for watering flowers. Among soft water, rainwater (or snow water) is the most ideal, because rainwater is a nearly neutral water, contains no minerals, and also has more air, making it very suitable for watering flowers. If rainwater can be collected and stored on rainy days for watering flowers, it helps promote the assimilation of flowers, prolongs the cultivation period, and improves ornamental value; flowers that especially like acidic soil prefer rainwater even more. Therefore, during the rainy season, as much rainwater as possible should be stored for later use. In various places in Northeast China, snow water can be used to water flowers, and the effect is also very good, but note that the ice and snow must be melted and left until the water temperature is close to room temperature before use. If there is no rainwater or snow water, river water or pond water can be used. If tap water is used, it must first be stored in a bucket (or vat) for 1-2 days so that the chlorine in the water volatilizes before use; this is more reliable. Water containing soap or washing powder should not be used for watering flowers, nor should dishwashing water containing grease. For cactus-type flowers that prefer slight alkalinity, slightly acidic leftover tea water should not be used. In addition, when watering flowers, attention should also be paid to water temperature. Whether watering flowers in summer or winter, if the difference between water temperature and air temperature is too large (exceeding 5 degrees), it easily harms the flower's root system. Therefore, water for watering flowers should preferably first be placed in a bucket (or vat) to air for a day, and used only when the water temperature is close to the air temperature.

14．How should the amount of water for potted flowers be controlled？
Whether the amount of water for potted flowers can be timely and appropriate is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. Based on experience from various places, the amount of water for potted flowers should be comprehensively judged according to the flower variety, plant size, growth and development stage, climate, soil conditions, pot size, placement location and other aspects, to determine the watering time, frequency and amount. Under normal circumstances, moisture-loving flowers should be watered more, drought-loving flowers should be watered less; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much; herbaceous flowers have high water content and also high transpiration, so they should be watered more than woody flowers; flowers with large, soft, smooth, hairless leaves should be watered more, while flowers with small leaves that have a waxy layer, fine hairs, or leathery texture should be watered less; water more during the vigorous growth period and less during the dormant period; water more when the plant is large and the pot is small, and less when the plant is small and the pot is large; water more on hot days and less on cold days; water more on dry days and less on cloudy days, and so on. For general flowers, the water supply through the four seasons is as follows: after spring begins each year, the temperature gradually rises, flowers enter the vigorous growth period, and the amount of watering gradually increases. In early spring, watering should preferably be done before noon. In summer, the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously, and transpiration is strong, so the amount of watering should be sufficient. In summer, watering should preferably be done in the morning and evening. After the beginning of autumn, the temperature gradually drops, flowers grow slowly, and watering should be appropriately reduced. In winter, the temperature is low, and many flowers enter dormancy or semi-dormancy, so watering should be controlled; if the potting soil is not too dry, do not water, so as to avoid root rot and leaf drop caused by too much watering. In winter, watering should preferably be done at 1-2 p.m.

15．What is the function of spraying water？
Spraying water can increase air humidity, lower air temperature, wash dust off the plants and rinse away pests, prevent tender leaves from scorching and flowers from fading early, and keep the plants fresh; especially for some flowers that like shade and moisture, such as camellia, rhododendron, orchid, and Monstera deliciosa, frequently spraying water on the leaf surface is very beneficial to their growth and development. In summer, after rain when the sky suddenly clears, or on stuffy evenings, attention should be paid to spraying water to lower the temperature and prevent disease. The amount of water sprayed should be determined according to the needs of the flowers. Generally, if the water evaporates soon after spraying, that amount is the most suitable. Seedlings and delicate flowers need more spraying, newly potted plants and cuttings that have not yet rooted also need more spraying, and tropical orchids, Araceae and Bromeliaceae flowers need frequent spraying even more. But some flowers are very sensitive to moisture, such as gloxinia, calceolaria, and begonia; their leaf surfaces have relatively thick fine hairs, and after water falls on them it is not easy to evaporate, causing the leaves to rot, so water should not be sprayed onto the leaves. For fully open flowers, it is also not suitable to spray too much water, otherwise it easily causes petals to mold and rot or affects fertilization, reducing the seed-setting and fruiting rate. In addition, the leaf buds at the top of cyclamen tubers, the flower buds in the leaf clusters of African daisy, and the pseudobulbs in the center of clivia leaf clusters all fear moisture. These parts are all easily harmed after being sprayed with water.

A Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part One)

16．How to rescue flowers after they wilt？
For potted flowers, because the pot holds relatively little water, forgetting to water, especially missing watering in hot summer, often easily causes leaves to wilt. If not rescued in time, over time it often leads to the plant withering. If the rescue is not done properly, sometimes it can also cause the plant to die. The correct approach is: when leaf wilting is found, immediately move the flower pot to a shady, cool place, spray some water on the leaves, and pour a small amount of water. After that, as the stems and leaves gradually recover their uprightness, gradually increase the amount of watering. If at this time too much water is poured all at once, it may cause the plant to die. This is because after a flower wilts, large numbers of root hairs have been damaged, so water absorption capacity is greatly reduced, and only after new root hairs grow can the original water absorption capacity be restored. At the same time, wilting causes cells to lose water; after encountering water, the cell walls absorb water first and rapidly expand, while the protoplasm absorbs water afterward and expands slowly. If at this time a large amount of water is suddenly poured, it will cause plasmolysis, damaging the protoplasm and thus causing the flower to die.

17．What role does soil play in the growth and development of flowers？

19．How to prepare culture soil？
There are many materials suitable for preparing culture soil. The following are the commonly used ones at present.
(1) Plain river sand soil. Mostly taken from riverbanks. It has good drainage but no fertility, and is mostly used by mixing into other culture materials to facilitate drainage.
(2) Garden soil. Soil taken from the surface layer of vegetable gardens, orchards and similar places. It contains a certain amount of humus and has relatively good physical properties, and is often used as the basic material for most culture soil.
(3) Leaf mold. Made by piling up fallen leaves, dry grass and the like. It has high humus content, strong water retention, and good permeability, and is one of the main materials for preparing culture soil.
(4) Mountain soil. Divided into two types: black mountain soil and yellow mountain soil. It is formed by the long-term accumulation of fallen leaves from mountain trees. Black mountain soil is acidic and contains more humus; yellow mountain soil is also acidic and contains less humus.
(5) Peat soil. Formed by the carbonization of peat moss. Because the stages of formation differ, it is divided into two types: brown peat and black peat. Brown peat contains abundant organic matter and shows an acidic reaction; black peat contains more minerals and less organic matter, and shows a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.
(6) Rice husk ash. Ash formed after burning rice husks; it is slightly alkaline, contains potassium, and has good drainage and aeration.
(7) Barnyard manure soil. Made by mixing animal manure, fallen leaves and other materials with garden soil, sewage and the like and piling them to compost; it has relatively abundant fertility. In addition, pond mud, river mud, coniferous soil, turf soil, rotted wood chips, vermiculite, perlite and so on are all good materials for preparing culture soil. When preparing culture soil, one should flexibly handle it according to the growth habits of the flowers, the properties of the culture soil materials, and local conditions. For general potted flowers, the commonly used culture soil ratios are leaf mold (or peat soil): garden soil: river sand: bone meal = 35:30:30:5, or leaf mold (or peat soil), plain river sand soil, decomposed organic fertilizer, superphosphate and the like mixed in a ratio of 5:3.5:1:0.5, then sifted and used. The above culture soils are mostly neutral or slightly acidic and are suitable for most flowers. For cultivating acid-loving flowers and trees such as camellia and rhododendron, about 0.2% sulfur powder can be mixed in; for cultivating flowers such as cactus, about 10% wall plaster soil peeled from lime walls and the like can be added.

20．How to make leaf mold yourself？
Leaf mold is a commonly used material for cultivating potted flowers. Where conditions permit, one can go directly to mountain forests to dig up leaf mold formed by years of weathering. Leaf mold can also be made at home. The method is: in autumn, collect fallen leaves of broadleaf or coniferous trees, weeds and other materials, and pile them into a rectangular pit. When piling, first put a layer of leaves, then a layer of garden soil, and repeat piling several layers in this way, then pour in a small amount of sewage, and finally cover the top with a layer of garden soil and the like about 10 cm thick. In late spring and midsummer of the following year, open it once each time, turn and crush the pile, and then pile it back as before. In warm climate areas, by late autumn these piled materials can mostly be decomposed. At this time they can be dug out, further crushed and sifted, and then used. When piling, two points should be noted: first, do not press too tightly, so as to facilitate air penetration and create conditions for the activity of aerobic bacteria, thereby accelerating the decomposition of the pile. Second, do not let the pile become too wet. If too wet, aeration is poor, and under oxygen-deficient conditions anaerobic bacteria multiply and become active in large numbers, causing serious loss of nutrients and affecting the quality of the leaf mold.

21．How to measure and change the pH of culture soil？

The pH of culture soil directly affects the physical and chemical properties of the culture soil and the growth of flowers. Most flowers grow well in culture soil that is neutral to slightly acidic (pH 5.5-7.0). This is because within this range the nutrient elements that flowers absorb from the soil are all in a soluble state. Above or below this range, some nutrient elements become unavailable, thus easily causing nutrient deficiency symptoms in some flowers. Precisely because of this, before planting flowers it is necessary to measure the pH of the culture soil. Soil pH is usually expressed by pH value. pH 7 is neutral, less than 7 is acidic, and greater than 7 is alkaline. If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it must be improved in order to grow flowers well. The simplest method for measuring the pH of culture soil is to buy a box of litmus test paper from a chemical reagent store; the box contains a standard color chart. For the test, take a small amount of culture soil and put it in a clean glass, add cool boiled water in a soil-to-water ratio of 1:2, and after thorough stirring and settling, put the litmus test paper into the solution, take it out after about 1 or 2 seconds and compare it with the standard color chart; find the color chart number closest to the color, and that is the pH value of this culture soil. According to the measurement result, for culture soil with unsuitable pH, the following measures can be taken to adjust it. If it is too acidic, add a small amount of lime powder and the like to the potting soil; if it is too alkaline, add a small amount of sulfur powder and the like to the potting soil.

As the name implies, soilless cultivation means cultivating flowers without soil, instead using various culture substrates and nutrient solutions. Because soilless cultivation uses a nutrient solution to directly provide flowers with the nutrient elements necessary for growth and development, it is also called nutrient solution cultivation. It is a new technology in flower cultivation in recent years and has many advantages:
(1) Fast growth and good quality. Because the nutrient solution used in soilless cultivation is carefully prepared according to the needs of flower growth and development, it is conducive to rapid flower growth, so there are many flowers, large blooms, bright colors, long flowering periods, strong fragrance, and green leaves that do not fall for a long time. It can not only improve ornamental value, but also shorten the flower production cycle and increase flower yield per unit area.
(2) Clean and hygienic, with few pests and diseases. The purpose of growing flowers is to beautify the indoor and outdoor environment and give people spiritual enjoyment. The fertilizer used in soilless cultivation is a nutrient solution prepared from inorganic elements, and the substrate is disinfected, so it is both clean and hygienic and can greatly reduce pests and diseases. Therefore, many countries currently have laws restricting the import of flowers with soil. If China wants to export flowers in large quantities, it must also adopt the new technology of soilless cultivation.
(3) Save fertilizer and save water. Because soilless cultivation uses fixed containers, fertilizer and water loss is very small. In soil cultivation, about half of the nutrients and most of the water are lost.
(4) Low labor intensity, saving labor and time. Soilless cultivation of flowers does not require carrying heavy flower pots. The containers used are mainly plastic, and the substrates used, such as vermiculite and perlite, are all very light, weighing only about one-tenth or less of soil. In management, one only needs to regularly replenish the pre-mixed nutrient solution and continuously add water, making operation simple and the effect very good.
(5) Not subject to many restrictions, suitable for indoor use. Soilless cultivation is relatively flexible; generally, as long as a site has air, water, light, temperature and other conditions, this method can be used to cultivate flowers.
23. What substrate is good to choose for soilless cultivation?
The role of the soilless cultivation substrate is to replace soil in fixing the flower plant in the container and to retain nutrient solution and water for the flower's growth and development needs. Therefore, materials with good water retention, good drainage, no harmful substances, clean and hygienic, and a certain strength should be chosen. At present, the main soilless cultivation substrates commonly used for home flower growing at home and abroad include sand, gravel, vermiculite, perlite, glass fiber, foam plastic, rock wool and so on.
(1) Vermiculite. It is a mica-type mineral, light in texture and highly porous, with good aeration, water absorption and a certain water-holding capacity, and contains elements such as magnesium and potassium that can be absorbed and used by flowers.
(2) Perlite. It is a siliceous mineral, stable in nature, firm, light in texture, clean and sterile, with good drainage and aeration, but slightly poor water and fertilizer retention, so it is best used mixed with vermiculite at 1:1.
(3) Foam plastic. Very light in texture, and at the same time it can hold a large amount of water per unit volume. Generally it cannot be used alone and is often mixed with sand and the like.
(4) Glass fiber. Clean and hygienic, with strong water absorption, it can store a large amount of air, does not rot after long-term use, and can support plant roots so they do not fall over. Soilless cultivation substrates used for a long time, especially under continuous cropping, often easily breed pathogens and harm flower seedlings, so after each cultivation, attention must be paid to disinfection treatment. A 1% concentration bleaching powder solution can be poured onto the substrate and soaked for about 30 minutes, then rinsed clean with clear water to remove chlorine; its sterilization effect is good. The disinfected substrate can be used again.

24．How to prepare nutrient solution？

A Practical Compendium of Home Flower Growing (Part One)

25．How can households carry out soilless cultivation？
For household soilless cultivation, ordinary pots such as plastic pots and unglazed clay pots can be used. When planting, first mix various substrates in a certain proportion or put them separately into a plastic pot, then plant seedlings that have grown 3-5 leaves in the center of the pot. Before planting, first put the root system with soil into clear water, gently wash off the root soil, then put the roots into a solution 5-10 times more dilute than the normal concentration of nutrient solution and soak for about 10 minutes, allowing them to fully absorb nutrients. After planting, cover the top with a layer of quartz sand or small stones to fix the plant, and immediately pour 0.5-strength nutrient solution from around the container until nutrient solution flows out from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. After that, water once every 1-3 days, and apply dilute nutrient solution once every 7-10 days; after the plant resumes normal growth, apply nutrient solution at normal concentration. The frequency and amount of nutrient solution application should be determined according to the flower type, plant size, different growth stages, season, placement location and so on. Generally, for indoor potted flowers during the growth period, large seedlings are given nutrient solution about once every 7-15 days, and small seedlings about once every 15-20 days; during the flower's dormant period, watering about once a month is sufficient. As for the amount of nutrient solution each time, generally for sun-loving flowers in pots with an inner diameter of about 20 cm, about 100 ml each time, and the amount for shade-loving flowers should be reduced accordingly. If long-acting flower fertilizer is used, its amount should refer to the product instructions. For beginners, when applying nutrient solution, attention should be paid to appropriate amounts; better less than too much. If too much is applied, it often easily causes scorched leaves and other harm. For soilless flower growing, besides paying attention to mastering the time and amount of nutrient solution application, one should also water in time according to the water requirements of different kinds of flowers, so as to keep the substrate often moist and enable flowers to grow robustly. In order to avoid loss of nutrient solution, it is best to choose watertight containers. A container relatively suitable for home use consists of two parts: the upper part is a flower pot containing substrate (with a perforated bottom), into which the flower seedlings are planted, and the lower part is a watertight container holding the nutrient solution. When using this kind of container for planting, before the plant roots extend into the nutrient solution, some water should be appropriately poured, and a small amount of dilute nutrient solution should be poured about every 5-7 days; after the roots extend into the nutrient solution, normal management begins. According to the growth habits of the flowers, regularly add nutrient solution and water; generally completely replace the nutrient solution once a month, and wash clean the container holding the nutrient solution. Usually, the amount of nutrient solution in the container should be about 2/3 of the container's depth. If too much is put in and no space is left, so that the root system is entirely soaked in the nutrient solution, air will be insufficient, and root rot is often easily caused by oxygen deficiency. For flowers grown by soilless cultivation, the usual maintenance and management work is basically the same as with soil cultivation; it is also necessary, according to the habits of the flower species, to provide environmental conditions such as light, temperature and humidity suitable for their growth and development.

26．What commonly used fertilizers are there？
Commonly used fertilizers fall into the following two categories:
(1) Organic fertilizers. They are usually divided into animal-based organic fertilizers and plant-based organic fertilizers. Animal-based organic fertilizers include human feces and urine, feathers, hooves and horns of poultry and livestock, bone meal, and waste from fish, meat and eggs. Plant-based organic fertilizers include soybean cake and other oilseed cakes, sesame paste residue, weeds, leaves, green manure, Chinese herbal medicine residue, distillers' grains, etc. Both types are slow-release fertilizers with relatively complete nutrients and long-lasting effects; they must be fermented and thoroughly decomposed before use.
(2) Inorganic fertilizers. These are fertilizers rich in mineral nutrients, made by chemical synthesis or processed from natural ores. For example, nitrogen fertilizers include urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate, etc. Phosphate fertilizers include superphosphate, phosphate rock powder, etc. Potassium fertilizers include potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, etc. Chemical fertilizers have quick effects but simple nutrient content; their action is strong but not lasting. Except for phosphate fertilizers, chemical fertilizers are generally used as top dressing.

27. How to make your own fertilizer？
In daily life, many kinds of waste can be used to make fertilizer.
(1) Soaked liquid fertilizer. Use a small vat (or small jar) and put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, guts of chicken and fish, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells and moldy foods (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder*), etc., add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and thorough decomposition, it is ready to use. When using, take the clear liquid on top and dilute it with water before applying. Alternatively, mix the above waste with some old potting soil, add some water, put it into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly and leave it for a period of time, then use it after fermentation.
(2) Waste composting. Choose a suitable spot and dig a soil pit 60 cm-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock innards, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste and crushed bones into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of about 10 cm of garden soil, and keep the pit moist to promote decomposition of the fertilizer. It is best to compost in autumn and winter; after the temperature rises in spring and it is decomposed with no foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as a base fertilizer; it can also be sifted while moist through a 4 mm sieve and rubbed into granules, with the fine part used as top dressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer.

The Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part 1)

28．How to avoid and reduce the foul odor produced when composting fertilizer and applying fertilizer？
When composting accumulated fertilizer, an unpleasant odor is often released, polluting the environment, which is very unhygienic and unpleasant. Here is a brief introduction to some small experiences for avoiding or reducing the odor produced when composting fertilizer.
(1) Put a few pieces of orange peel (dried or fresh) into the fertilizer composting container to reduce the odor. This is because orange peel contains a large amount of essential oil, which continuously releases fragrance along with the fermentation process of the fertilizer, thereby reducing the odor. When the effect of the orange peel decreases, add a few more new pieces of orange peel. After fermentation, orange peel is also a good fertilizer and can increase fertilizer efficiency.
(2) Use a pickle jar to compost fertilizer. Put household non-staple food waste, such as rotten eggs, animal innards, spoiled milk, soybean milk, etc., into the pickle jar, add an appropriate amount of clean water, be sure to fill the water groove at the mouth of the jar with water, then add some insecticidal medicine, and put on the lid to prevent the odor from escaping. In summer, it will decompose in about 2-3 months. When using, take the clear liquid on top and add 10-20 times water, and add a little trichlorfon and other pesticides to the fertilizer water to prevent maggots. According to some references, adding an appropriate amount of 500-600 times diluted rice vinegar solution before applying the fertilizer water can help alleviate the odor of the liquid fertilizer.

29.How to brew alum fertilizer water？

Flower growers in Yanling, Henan, use "alum fertilizer water" to irrigate flowers that prefer acidic soil, with good results. The commonly used preparation method: 20 kg-25 kg of water, 1 kg-1.5 kg of cake fertilizer or hoof pieces, 250 g-300 g of ferrous sulfate (black alum). Put the above materials together into a vat, place it in the sun to expose and ferment for about 1 month, then take the clear liquid on top and dilute it with water before use. Soil watered with this water shows a slightly acidic reaction, with a pH value of about 5.8-6.7.

The Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part 1)

Recommended reading:The Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part 2)

           The Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part 3)

How to grow Anthurium (a big summary of successful growing experience)

A blooming anthurium flower, scarlet and eye-catching, with fresh green leaves, grown hydroponically in a glass bottle looks clear and bright, pleasing to the eye. Who would not like such a flower? The flower shape of anthurium is similar to a goose palm, so people often call it goose palm red, and some also call it Anthurium andraeanum, a plant of the genus Anthurium in the Araceae family. The following text will focus on the hydroponic growing methods of anthurium, homeHow to grow Anthuriumand some common points to note in anthurium cultivation.

>>Click the image to view  How to grow potted Anthurium

I. Hydroponic growing methods for Anthurium

A blooming anthurium stands quietly in the water, with pure roots below and lively flowers above, making people feel full of joy and refreshed. Among foliage hydroponic plants, hydroponic cultivation of anthurium is relatively more difficult. Root rot is more likely to occur. This is related to the characteristics of anthurium itself; the roots of anthurium are aerial roots, and aerial roots are more sensitive to the aeration of the environment. To grow anthurium well, it is necessary to control the frequency of water changes, the water capacity, the dissolved oxygen content in the water, and so on.

Editor's reminder: Hydroponic anthurium must be given a nutrient solution suitable for anthurium growth, with suitable light and temperature and careful maintenance.

http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1. Nutrient solution suitable for anthurium survival

It is recommended to choose a nutrient solution for foliage plants. It must be replaced every 7-http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/10 days http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1 time. Regularly changing the water for anthurium can remove the mucus secreted from the anthurium roots and some algae. In summer, when the temperature is high, water should be changed more frequently than in winter. It is recommended to change the water for anthurium once every 2-3 days. Water should not be added too full, to prevent anthurium root rot. It is best to keep about half of the anthurium root system exposed above the water surface. This can ensure the roots' absorption of oxygen.

2. Light and temperature required for hydroponic anthurium

Anthurium likes semi-shade, and a warm, moist environment is also one of the requirements for anthurium's growing environment. It is afraid of direct sunlight, so during cultivation special attention should be paid to its placement; it is best to place it in a place that is ventilated and can avoid strong light. In summer, when growing hydroponic anthurium, note that the surrounding temperature must not be higher than 28 degrees. The relative air humidity should be maintained at 80%; when the weather is relatively dry, spray an appropriate amount of water on the anthurium leaf surface. In winter, the temperature for hydroponic anthurium must not be lower than http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/14 degrees; below this temperature, anthurium is prone to cold damage. Pay attention to keeping it warm and increasing the temperature. Also control the air humidity at around 80%, and be sure not to place the anthurium outdoors, otherwise it is very easy to cause cold injury to the anthurium.

3. Oxygen-enhancing methods for hydroponic anthurium

The difficulty faced by hydroponic anthurium is that if the dissolved oxygen in the water is low, it will cause root rot in anthurium, so during hydroponic cultivation the oxygen content in the water should be increased in time. Among these, the simplest method is vibration: fix the flower plant with one hand, and hold the container with the other hand and gently shake it more than http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can be increased by about 30%. Or add http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution) to the nutrient solution; if conditions permit, a miniature submersible pump or oxygen pump can also be used to oxygenate the nutrient solution.

Editor's reminder: When growing hydroponic anthurium, part of the original soil-grown roots can be removed; light root removal is enough. If you want to enhance the roots' aquatic adaptability, heavy root removal can be done.

>>Click the image to view methods for handling root rot in hydroponic Anthurium

II. Common problems in hydroponic Anthurium cultivation

http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1   What should be done if the leaves of anthurium grown in water turn yellow

Answer: The anthurium needs to be disinfected. It is recommended to buy a hydroponic acclimation solution from a flower market, used to promote rooting. After dilution, using it to grow flowers is safe. The water temperature should be close to room temperature; do not use tap water directly. Yellow leaves should be trimmed off. Generally speaking, flowers will have yellow leaves; just trim them, and when the flower produces new leaves again it shows that it is very healthy.

2   The leaves and flowers of hydroponic anthurium have now dried up and died. What should be done?

Answer: Too much nutrient solution can cause the leaves and flowers. It is recommended to change the water but do not add nutrient solution for now.

3   The water of hydroponic anthurium is changed frequently but the water smells bad, and some leaves turn yellow?

Answer: Yellow leaves can indicate a lack of nutrients. The water smelling bad is caused by root rot. It is recommended to disinfect the roots, then add a nutrient solution specially for hydroponics and it can be improved.

4   How should hydroponic anthurium be fertilized?

Answer: For hydroponic anthurium, it is best to choose a liquid fertilizer specially for anthurium, because anthurium has a high demand for magnesium, so ordinary compound fertilizers are not only mostly alkaline but also have low magnesium content! After each water change, drip http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1-3 drops into the water, depending on the size of the container.

5   Reasons why hydroponic anthurium roots turn black.

Answer: Hydroponic anthurium should be placed in a bright place in front of a window where diffused light comes in. Unlike soil-grown flowers, hydroponic flowers must not have direct light shining on their roots, otherwise it will inhibit the roots or cause photo-oxidative damage to the roots, causing the roots to turn black and, in severe cases, rot and lose activity. The rotten roots need to be cut off, and it is enough to let the root system be fully immersed in the nutrient solution.

>>Click the image to view the flower language of Anthurium

III. Growing methods for potted Anthurium

http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1. Soil substrate for growing Anthurium

The soil substrate for planting anthurium must maintain good permeability and not retain water. For home cultivation, you can choose to buy prepared potting soil from a garden store and add some ceramsite and dry tree bark mixed in (ceramsite: dry tree bark = 2:http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1) as the substrate. Before planting, the substrate needs to be disinfected to prevent anthurium from being affected by pests and diseases in the later stage of growth.

2. Temperature requirements for growing Anthurium

The most suitable growing environment temperature for anthurium should be controlled between http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/14-35 degrees. In winter, when the temperature is lower than http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/10 degrees, it is easy to cause cold damage to the anthurium. Pay attention to keeping the anthurium warm and increasing the temperature. In summer, when the temperature is higher than 35 degrees, the anthurium should be humidified in time and water should be sprayed around it. If this is done, even at high temperature, if the humidity is high, the anthurium is not easily harmed.

3. How to fertilize Anthurium

Compared with other foliage plants, anthurium has a higher demand for magnesium fertilizer. When fertilizing anthurium at home, it is recommended to buy Magic-K fertilizer from a garden store and apply it together with a foliar fertilizer. Or use all-water-soluble compound fertilizers such as Huaduoduo general-purpose type diluted into 800-http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1000 times liquid fertilizer and apply regularly (no less than http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1 time per week). The principle of fertilizing anthurium is to apply thick fertilizer less often and thin fertilizer frequently.

4. Watering cycle

Water the anthurium according to the dryness of the substrate in the pot. In summer, when the temperature is relatively high, it is recommended to water once every 2 days, and at noon also use a spray system to spray water on the leaf surface to increase the relative humidity indoors. In winter, it is recommended to water once every 5-7 days. In cold seasons, watering should be done between 9 a.m. and before 4 p.m. to avoid cold injury to the roots. Generally, in spring and autumn, water once every 3 days. Avoid adding water when the plant is severely short of water, as this will affect the growth and development of anthurium. During watering, be sure to alternate dry and wet; do not water when the plant is severely short of water, as this will affect its normal growth and development.

   Click to view the water requirements of Anthurium at different growth stages<<<<>

5. Growing Anthurium requires attention to humidity control

High temperature and high humidity are beneficial to the growth of anthurium. When the indoor temperature is higher than 28 degrees, the relative humidity of the air needs to be increased. At this time, tools such as a humidifier can be used to increase air humidity. Temperature and humidity are closely related. When the indoor temperature is lower than 20 degrees, it is enough to maintain the indoor environmental temperature and humidity. However, in winter, even if the greenhouse temperature is relatively high, it is not suitable to reduce temperature and retain moisture too much, because if the plant leaves are too wet at night, their cold resistance will instead be reduced, making them prone to cold injury, which is not conducive to safely overwintering.

6. Prevention and control of Anthurium pests and diseases

The most common pests on anthurium are red spider mites, nematodes, cabbage caterpillars, whiteflies, thrips, snails and scale insects, among which red spider mites, nematodes and cabbage caterpillars are especially major. Anthurium is very sensitive to insecticides, and the concentration must be correct when used; its concentration is usually lower than that used for other flowers. Pay special attention that copper-containing pesticides and dimethoate, methamidophos, dichlorvos, malathion, parathion, etc. will cause toxicity to anthurium.

IV. Points to note in Anthurium cultivation

http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/1. Proper humidity and beautiful posture

In anthurium cultivation, attention should be paid to moisturizing. If the humidity required during the anthurium growth period can be correctly controlled, the anthurium can grow robustly, with fiery red petals, exceptionally bright, and a very graceful posture

2. Insufficient sunlight makes flowering difficult

Anthurium likes sunlight. If there is insufficient sunlight during the growth period, it is very difficult for it to bloom, but it is also not suitable to let sunlight shine directly on it, as leaf burn may occur. The best method is to place it in a bright shaded place, so that it can avoid strong light scorching and also receive refracted sunlight.

3. Unsuitable temperature makes it difficult to keep alive

Anthurium cultivation requires attention to temperature control. Its suitable growth temperature is http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/18°C---28°C. The maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, and the minimum temperature is http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/14°C. Below http://m.to8to.com/yezhu/10°C, cold damage may occur at any time. Therefore, when the temperature is high in summer, attention should be paid to ventilation and watering, and in winter greenhouse cultivation should be carried out.

V. Feng shui role of Anthurium

Anthurium has relatively high ornamental value, and its feng shui role is also considerable. Anthurium has slender stems, green and thick leaves, fiery red flowers, and a golden-yellow spadix, making it quite suitable for placement in the home. The red flower grows at the top, carrying the meaning of good fortune at the head, and among the flowers and leaves there is a golden-yellow strip-shaped spadix, implying gold in hand. The feng shui meaning is very good, with a wealth-attracting effect. In addition, anthurium can also play a role in the transformation of the five elements, thereby resolving some unfavorable feng shui factors.

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[Spider Plant][Winter Jasmine][Spring Orchid][Aglaia odorata][Crinum asiaticum][Magnolia][Spathiphyllum][Anthurium]

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