How to grow saffron crocus? Cultivation methods and things to note, sunlight must be sufficient

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Saffron crocus is a fairly common plant in people's lives, first introduced to China during the Ming Dynasty. How to grow saffron crocus is related to sunlight, watering, fertilizing and other aspects. As for the specific cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus, let me walk you through them below.

I. How to grow saffron crocus / sufficient sunlight

How to grow saffron crocus is closely related to people's daily care. To grow it well, there are many aspects that need attention, and sunlight is one of the more crucial points. Letting saffron crocus grow in an environment with sufficient sunlight is very beneficial to it.

II. Cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus

1. Soil

To help saffron crocus thrive, choosing the soil is the first step and a fairly important one. Generally, it is best to choose looser soil, as this gives better drainage and helps saffron crocus absorb nutrients. Also remember that autumn is the best season to plant saffron crocus; generally, if you want to plant it, it is best to choose this season.

2. Watering

Watering is one of the more noteworthy points in the cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus. The growing period of saffron crocus is generally in winter and spring each year, so special attention should be paid to watering. Generally, seedlings emerge about 20 days after planting; remember to water once before emergence, as this helps with sprouting. Before winter arrives, water once with antifreeze water to increase soil temperature. Then in April each year, water once to reduce the harm of dry hot winds.

3. Fertilizing

Fertilizing saffron crocus is also quite particular. Generally, a mixed liquid fertilizer of nitrogen fertilizer and phosphorus fertilizer can be chosen for fertilizing, and after saffron crocus has taken root, fertilize once every ten days. After entering the flowering period, apply one more topdressing, as this lays a good foundation for its flowering.

4. Sunlight

Saffron crocus is a plant that rather likes sunlight, so it is best to grow it in a place with sufficient sunlight, as this helps it carry out photosynthesis. However, it should not be exposed to long-term scorching sun. In summer, when the sunlight is relatively strong, it is best to move saffron crocus indoors to a semi-shaded place, so that it can not only get sunlight but also avoid being sunburned.

5. Harvest

From late April to early May each year is the harvest period for saffron crocus. At this time, the branches and leaves above will gradually turn yellow. At this point, you can carefully dig it up, remove the branches and leaves, dry it in the field for 2-3 days, and then store it indoors.

How to grow saffron crocus, I believe friends who have read the above will no longer have doubts about this question. In fact, in the process of growing saffron crocus, the most important thing is still care. Only with careful tending will beautiful flowers grow. That is all for the cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus. I also hope this article can bring everyone some help.

How to grow potted saffron crocus, cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus / temperature control

Saffron crocus is a plant that originated in Europe, first spread to Tibet, and finally spread from Tibet to the interior. Having developed to today, saffron crocus is already a fairly common plant in people's lives. How to grow potted saffron crocus well is closely related to light, soil, watering and other aspects. As for the specific cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus, let me walk you through them below.

I. How to grow potted saffron crocus / the environment is very important

Saffron crocus is a relatively easy plant to grow; as long as you master the right cultivation methods, it is fairly easy to keep alive. Regarding how to grow saffron crocus, the environment is one of the more important uncertain points. Being able to grow in a comfortable environment is closely related to whether saffron crocus can thrive. As for how to carry out the specific cultivation methods, let us continue reading below.

II. Cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus

1. Planting

Planting is the first step in the cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus, and also the step that lays the foundation, so it can be said to be very important. When planting, you must first choose the soil well; it is best to choose slightly fertile and loose soil, as this helps saffron crocus absorb nutrients.

When choosing bulbs, you must choose relatively plump, healthy, disease-free bulbs. Planting is generally carried out in autumn. The method is to first plant the bulbs in a flowerpot. According to the size of the plant and the flowerpot, you can appropriately plant 4-6 plants per pot. After planting, cover with 5-8 cm of soil. Within one week after planting, place the flowerpot in a cool, ventilated place, and afterward it can be moved to a place with better light for growing.

2. Fertilizing

After saffron crocus unfolds its leaves, note that it should be fertilized once every 20 days. This can make the flowers bloom more brilliantly and the rhizomes more robust, because fertilizer is one of the main nutrients for saffron crocus. Everyone must pay attention to this.

3. Watering

As mentioned above, saffron crocus is generally planted in autumn. Winter and spring are its growth periods, so paying attention to watering is very important. Of course, watering should also be appropriate, neither too much nor too little. It is best to water once before emergence, as this helps saffron crocus sprout. When winter is approaching, water once with antifreeze water to preserve soil temperature. When spring arrives, water once again, as this can effectively reduce the harm of hot winds.

4. Sunlight

Saffron crocus likes warmth by nature, so when growing it, it is best to place it in a place with relatively sufficient sunlight and let it receive 4-6 hours of sunlight every day. This is of great help to the growth of saffron crocus.

5. Environment

Among the cultivation methods and things to note for saffron crocus, the environment is a particularly important point. Only when growing in a comfortable environment can saffron crocus truly thrive. The most suitable temperature for saffron crocus growth is between 18-24°. Of course, if the temperature is slightly higher or lower, the impact will not be too great, as long as the temperature difference is not too large.

How to grow lilies: teaching you the cultivation methods and things to note for potted lilies

Like countless living things, for lilies to thrive and ultimately bloom beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the bulb itself must be of good quality, the environment must be suitable, management must keep up, and from the start of planned planting until the final withering of the flowers, you must always care for them and manage them meticulously. Only then can you be sure that the lilies will be as you wish, pleasing to the eye. As for whether you can make money, that still depends on whether the market cooperates. However, flower lovers grow them for their own enjoyment, so that is not within the scope of this article.

1. Successfully ordering high-quality bulbs is the foundation of successful planting. However, because bulbs are not industrial products but agricultural products, and are also imported products facing various national quality inspection requirements, various problems will always exist. No matter which company it is, domestic or foreign, if they pat their chest and guarantee that everyone's orders (supply, supply quality) have no problems at all, then they are definitely a fraud. That being the case, you can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with the bulbs.

High-quality lily bulbs: firm, clean, with a good root system

A common problem with lily bulbs is Penicillium infection (as shown in the picture below). If the infection has not endangered the basal plate of the bulb, the problem is not serious.

Freezing damage -- the bulb's sprout turns black (as shown in the picture below); in severe cases, it can only be discarded.

2. Environment: The slogan everyone commonly sees is "even little grass has life." I remember a Dutch expert also said, "The water you can drink, it can drink too; the environment you can stay in, it can too." "Even little grass has life" tells the truth. You must treat it like your own baby, touch it, sense it, and then change its environment at any time. Only then can it repay you with beautiful flowers.

1) Soil:

Soil structure: Although lilies can grow in all soils, it is very important to ensure that the cultivation soil has a good structure and maintains good drainage throughout the entire growth stage. Poor soil structure and compaction often cause lily roots to grow weakly or even die due to lack of oxygen, or due to poor drainage, allow Pythium to run rampant and cause lily root death, ultimately leading to poor growth or even death of the lilies.

The picture below shows the situation where heavy rain under a typhoon flooded the soil, causing root death from lack of oxygen. Of course, overly compacted soil also makes the situation more serious.

Soil pH and salinity: Maintaining an appropriate soil pH is very important for the development of lily roots and the correct absorption of nutrients. If the pH is too low, it will lead to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, aluminum), while if the pH is too high, it will lead to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese and iron. Everyone knows that deficiency is bad, but not everyone knows that excess is just as bad.

Lilies are also sensitive to salinity. Too high salinity will form hard, fragile, and yellow or brown roots, reduce the roots' absorption of water, affect lily quality, and in severe cases even cause lily root death and lily plant death. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizers and water used.

The picture below was originally a very beautiful root system, but due to the use of undecomposed organic fertilizer, part or all of the roots died. It is a great pity.

Soil pathogens: Lilies often die because soil fungi harm their roots. Common fungi include Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia only harms the buds while they are still in the soil, while Pythium can be alleviated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, during the entire growth process, it is very necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times, such as chlorothalonil.

The picture below shows the damage caused by Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.

From the above, it can be seen how crucial suitable cultivation soil is to successful cultivation. If the soil is bad, even if you spend a great deal of energy managing it, you can only face it with tears. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has not previously grown lilies to plant lilies. Of course, the most ideal choice is peat (domestic peat is fine). To reduce management difficulty, using 80% peat and adding 20% perlite or pine bark medium is very wise. If considering base fertilizer, using controlled-release fertilizer with controllable release is the most ideal. If you are very fond of organic fertilizer, be sure to use fully decomposed organic fertilizer.

With such a good root system, why worry about not having beautiful lily flowers?

2) Temperature

Rooting period temperature: For 2-3 weeks after planting, maintaining an appropriately low temperature (10-12 degrees) to ensure that lilies can grow good stem roots is very crucial. However, most of the time, we cannot guarantee such ideal weather. Therefore, professional growers use cold storage for rooting, while we can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator. Wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat not too wet; enough if water drips when squeezed by hand) (breathable) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper compartment for rooting is a good idea. Although low temperatures will prolong the growth period, I think everyone should not mind managing it for a few more days.

In the case of pre-rooting, in high-temperature seasons, root first, then plant.

Growth period temperature: Although the most ideal growth temperature for lilies is 15-25 degrees, we have no way to control nature's temperature. However, we still need to avoid extreme situations. Below 5 degrees, lilies are very prone to freezing damage; above 35 degrees, the growth period will be greatly shortened and quality will decline accordingly. In summer with strong sunlight, we can lower the temperature by shading and enhancing ventilation. How pleasant it would be to have cool breezes under the shade of trees in summer.

3) Relative humidity: The suitable relative humidity for lilies needs to be between 70-80%, but this refers to professional producers carrying out production in greenhouses. For everyone growing lilies in the yard or placing them on the balcony, there is no need to consider this point. In greenhouses, poor growth is often caused by excessively high humidity, but I have not yet seen outdoor lilies grow poorly even because of continuous rainy weather (provided the soil drainage is good and fungicides are regularly applied to control Botrytis). Of course, slight effects will still occur. This is because ventilation in greenhouses is very poor; when people go in, they feel very stuffy, and plants feel the same way.

Here are a few pictures of lily leaf damage caused by excessively high greenhouse humidity.

Because the humidity is too high, the water pressure inside the plant becomes too great, ultimately causing damage to the leaves due to rupture of cell walls. In severe cases, even the flower buds are gone. This is a physiological disorder, not damage from pathogens, so applying fungicides is useless. Using calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell walls and can reduce the damage.

Long-term rainy weather makes plant leaves very tender, and because the plant needs to expel excess water from its body, the leaf stomata remain open all the time. Being open for a long time ultimately causes the leaf stomata to lose their closing function (they originally open and close automatically according to climate conditions). After the rainy weather, the leaf stomata still remain open and continue transpiration and water loss, ultimately causing the leaves to dehydrate, become papery, and even scorch.

4) Shading: Shading can control temperature, relative humidity and light.

In summer, sunlight is usually very strong. For 2-3 weeks after planting (before budding), 80% of the light can be blocked. After budding, because Asiatic lilies and LA hybrid lilies are sensitive to light, lack of light can cause bud abortion, so shading can be appropriately reduced, such as blocking 50% of the light. Oriental lilies are not sensitive to light, so 50-70% of the light can still be blocked.

The general steps for potted lilies at home:

1. Preparation stage:

1) Growing medium: It is recommended that everyone choose peat soil as the main medium for planting.

2) Fertilizer: It is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 controlled-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate per cubic meter of medium as base fertilizer.

3) Pots: A 13 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of 12-14 cm size; a 15 cm pot can plant 3 bulbs of 12-14 or 14-16 cm; in this way, choose pots according to your own situation. It is best if the pot height is above 12 cm.

2. Receiving lily bulbs: After long-distance logistics, when everyone receives the lily bulbs, they have thawed. Normally, there should be a small sprout. As long as the sprout length does not exceed 5 cm and it is not broken, then even a curved sprout is no problem at all. Please plant with confidence.

After receiving the bulbs, they can be soaked for 30 minutes in a 600-800 times dilution of chlorothalonil.

3. Planting:

1) First mix the medium and base fertilizer evenly, and water until water drips when squeezed by hand.

2) Place 2-3 cm of the mixed medium at the bottom of the pot.

3) Place the bulbs with the sprouts facing outward and plant them in the pot.

4) Cover the bulbs with about 8 cm of medium.

5) Water thoroughly and place in a shaded area, avoiding sunlight as much as possible.

4. It is recommended that the planting amount per pot be 1, 3, or 5 bulbs. Odd numbers look better. If more than 5, then odd or even does not matter.

At temperatures in June-July, sprouts generally emerge in 7 days.

1. Medium: peat soil

2. Fertilizer: controlled-release fertilizer, calcium nitrate

3. Pot: 160 dual-color pot, planting 3 bulbs

4. Planting

1) Correct planting method: the bulb sprouts face toward the pot wall.

Incorrect planting method: the bulb sprouts face toward the middle. Consequence: the sprouts all concentrate in the middle, which does not look good.

Of course, if planted randomly, when the sprouts grow out, they will be very messy and disordered, not looking good. As for potted planting, it is best to wait until the bulbs have a 3-5 cm sprout before planting. This way, the direction of the sprouts can be controlled, making the overall appearance of the plant better.

What growth environment after planting?

For two weeks after planting, lily growth still needs relatively low temperatures to continue developing a good root system. Therefore, for potted lilies, after planting you can choose a place without direct sunlight; for lilies planted in the open ground, a shade net can be used to block direct sunlight. However, whether potted or open-ground cultivation, once the lilies show flower buds, they should immediately be given light. Potted ones can be moved to a place with sufficient light, and open-ground ones must have the shading removed. Otherwise, it will affect the number of lily buds and the quality of flowering. Asiatic lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and in severe cases all buds may drop. Proper topdressing can make lily stems thicker and stronger, especially in hot summer. But note that the concentration should be lighter than usual to avoid fertilizer damage. For topdressing, you can still choose a high-potassium lily-specific fertilizer 15-15-30 diluted with water, at a concentration of 1000-1500 ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mixed evenly.

Each variety has different characteristics, and the flowering time also differs. But high or low temperatures will also affect how early or late flowering occurs. For the conventional flowering time of specific varieties, please see each variety's product information. Here, I want to remind friends in the northernmost regions that in the later growth stage of lilies, if the nighttime temperature drops below 10 degrees, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering for Oriental lilies is about 100 days, while Asiatic lilies need only about 60 days. Therefore, when choosing varieties, flower lovers should choose according to local climatic conditions and their own care conditions, to avoid the situation where, just at the moment of flowering, they are frozen and all previous efforts are wasted. Would that not be a pity?

Notes:

1. The earlier mention that "we can use the crisper compartment of a refrigerator, wrap lily bulbs in peat (peat not too wet; enough if water drips when squeezed by hand) (breathable) and place them in the refrigerator's crisper compartment for rooting, which is a good idea" -- if placed in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment to go through the 2-3 week rooting period, then when taken out from a 5-degree cold storage compartment, the outside temperature is at least 25 degrees. Can it adapt?

Answer: Yes. Professional lily cut flower producers take rooted lily bulbs out of cold storage, and the temperature inside the greenhouse is as high as 40 degrees. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage, and after budding please reduce the degree of shading. If heavy shading of 80% is maintained all along, Asiatic lilies may abort their buds due to lack of light.

2. How to handle the bulbs after the flowers fade

After the flowers fade, please cut off the spent flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are retained. At the same time, please maintain normal care. Generally, when the low-temperature season (November-December) arrives, the aboveground stems will die, and the bulbs remain in the soil. During this stage, please reduce the use of water and fertilizer. After spring begins, as long as the bulbs have not rotted or been eaten by insects, they will grow and bloom again. For lilies planted in the yard, you can leave them alone; the next year they will grow out nicely, year after year, and more and more small lilies will appear.

3. Posting a few pictures of lilies from professional lily pot cultivation abroad

★How to grow potted lilies

Lilies are cool-climate flowers, meaning regions with a cool climate and large day-night temperature differences are most suitable for growing lilies.

Lilies do not have the brown outer skin on tulip bulbs. Before being planted in soil, they must be stored at a constant temperature of 2 degrees; otherwise they will quickly root and are also prone to rotting. So after we buy lily bulbs from the market, we must plant them as soon as possible and cannot leave them for long.

I. Prepare the bulbs well

The top is the sprout, and the bottom is the root. Do not put them upside down! Some bulbs have not yet grown roots; look at the scales opening upward, that is the sprout.

Before planting, the bulbs should first be disinfected by soaking in a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim for 20 minutes, rinsing with clean water, and drying before planting.

II. Prepare soil and pots

Lilies like fertile sandy soil with good water retention and drainage. Peat : river sand : perlite = 2:2:1. You can also use soil for cactus plants. In any case, clay soil cannot be used.

Because lilies are bulbous flowers with two layers of roots, the container chosen should be a relatively deep pot.

III. Planting

First put 10-15 cm of soil into the bottom of the pot, place the bulbs. If three bulbs are in one pot, place the bulb heads toward the edge of the flowerpot, that is, tilt them toward the pot edge. This ensures that after sprouting, the plants are evenly distributed. Cover the tops of the bulbs with about 5 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a cool place for 1-2 days.

IV. Care

Water: Keep the soil moist. From just having buds to the flowering period, spraying water twice a day, morning and evening, is enough. In addition, water twice a month with a 1000 times solution of imported carbendazim.

Fertilizing: Generally fertilize once every half month.

Common problems in lily cultivation

1. Leaf scorch

Cause of leaf scorch: caused by physiological calcium deficiency.

Conditions for occurrence: It is prone to occur under conditions such as excessive shading, poor ventilation, high air humidity, continuous cloudy days, too low soil pH, and poor plant root systems.

Preventive measures: Improve ventilation conditions and increase plant water transpiration.

Appropriately provide light earlier and harden the seedlings.

Using root treatment before planting is beneficial to root development and the absorption of calcium ions.

Peeling leaves (separating the tightly clasped leaves) just before the leaf scorch period can also reduce the occurrence of leaf scorch.

Keep dry and avoid prolonged water accumulation on the plants.

Increase the application of calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be done through root fertilization or foliar fertilization.

2. Root burn

Cause of root burn: the salt concentration of the soil solution is too high.

A. The soil itself is severely salinized and the EC value is too high;

B. Improper fertilization, applying too much fertilizer at one time, causing the soil solution concentration to become too high;

C. Insufficient water and overly dry soil can also cause the soil solution concentration to increase.

Preventive measures: Do not choose soil with excessively high salinity; do not place high-salt substrate or fertilizer directly on the bulbs; adopt the method of light but frequent fertilization to avoid using a large amount of fertilizer at once, which can cause root burn; check the root system regularly, and if root burn occurs, water promptly and combine with foliar fertilizer spray.

3. High temperatures have a serious impact on lilies and should be avoided as much as possible, including high temperatures in soil and the environment. Anything above 30°C is considered high temperature.

4. Common leaf yellowing

5. Phytophthora blight

Preventive measures:

A. Focus on prevention, avoid continuously excessive soil moisture (especially avoid waterlogging) and excessively high air humidity, and try to avoid air humidity above 90%.

B. Disinfect soil and bulbs before planting; options include dexon, phosethyl-Al plus mancozeb, and hymexazol.

C. Avoid continuous cropping in fields with Phytophthora-infected crops that share the same pathogen hosts, such as avoiding continuous cropping with baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae, cucurbits and other vegetables. That is: soil that has previously grown baby's breath, carnation, Solanaceae or cucurbits should as far as possible not be used again for lilies.

6. Root rot

Preventive measures:

Control soil moisture

Disinfect bulbs and soil with carbendazim, dexon, hymexazol, etc.

Reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer used, especially ammoniacal nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer

7. Fusarium stem rot

Preventive measures:

Disinfect bulbs and soil before planting; lower soil temperature

8. Gray mold - avoid continuously high-humidity environments

9. Blind flower (no flower)

Causes of blind flower:

A. Insufficient water and fertilizer supply: Lilies are a flower variety that requires a relatively large supply of water and fertilizer. In the early stage, the plant mainly relies on nutrients from the bulb for growth, while in the middle and late stages it mainly relies on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain growth. If the water and fertilizer supply is poor, it will seriously affect the growth and development of lilies, causing stems to be thick at the bottom and thin at the top, weak plants, and in severe cases blind flowers and bud drop.

B. Too-high temperature: Too-high temperatures can seriously affect lily quality. Lilies prefer cool climates. If the temperature is too high, growth is too rapid, material accumulation in the plant is low, and organic matter consumption is high, resulting in malnutrition, and in severe cases causing blind flowers and bud drop.

C. Insufficient light: Insufficient light, overly dense planting, and poor ventilation affect the plant's photosynthesis, leading to low material accumulation and easily causing weak plants or even bud drop. OT-type lilies are especially sensitive to light, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion.

D. Insufficient nutrients in the bulb: Bulbs that are too small in size, harvested too early, or stored too long will also have insufficient nutrients, easily causing blind flowers and bud drop in lilies.

E. Planting too deep: Planting too deep causes lilies to emerge slowly, consuming a large portion of the bulb's nutrients, leaving the plant with insufficient nutrients and poor growth, and in severe cases causing blind flowers.

F. Poor root growth in lilies: If the lily root system is poor and its absorption capacity is insufficient, the plant will lack nutrients, and there will not be enough nutrients to supply flower bud growth. Flower bud growth will be inhibited, also resulting in blind flowers and bud drop.

★Lily variety selection and planting methods

I. Basic introduction

Are lilies hard to grow?

Actually, not at all

I am a bulb enthusiast, and the order I have arrived at after many years of cultivation is

Ease of growing: (common problems in parentheses)

Rain lily > Amaryllis (expensive...) = Freesia (lodging) = Grape hyacinth (messy foliage) = Crocus (degeneration) > Lily (bud abortion and bulb rot) > Narcissus (bulb rot, degeneration, slow growth) > Hyacinth (blasted flower, bulb rot, degeneration) > Tulip (bulb rot, bud abortion, one-season only) > Ranunculus (one word: rot) > Anemone (rotting nonstop from the very beginning)

There are too many Oxalis varieties to generalize; some are as easy to grow as weeds, while others are god-tier difficult

Gloxinia and Cyclamen are better grown as herbaceous plants, so they are not included in the ranking, and bulbous irises are not widely popular enough to be included either

It can be seen that lilies are not only suitable as cut flowers in flower shops; as household potted plants and perennial garden plants they are also very good

Most of the parents of lily hybrids actually come from China. They are truly Chinese flowers and are very well adapted to our climate (except Oriental lilies, which come from Japan).

II. Variety selection

Ease-of-growing order

LA > Asiatic (A) > Longiflorum (L) = LO > OT > Oriental (O)

LA is an improvement on Asiatic lilies, producing bulblets faster, with large flowers

LO can be considered an improvement on Longiflorum, with richer flower colors and stronger fragrance

OT improves the heat tolerance, propagation rate and ease of growing of Oriental lilies

Fragrance

Oriental = OT > Longiflorum = LO >> LA; Asiatic = 0

The last two, the Asiatic types, are basically fragrance-free and suitable for flower lovers who dislike lily fragrance

Longiflorum has a light, sweet fragrance, stronger at night.

The first two are strongly fragrant. Oriental lilies have the scent of flower-shop lilies. Some OT lilies are sweet and some are pungent. LO is a mixed scent of Longiflorum and Oriental, and the fragrance is very weak in hot weather.

1. Lily fragrance is generally strongest 1-2 days after opening, then gradually fades. It is normal for it not to be very fragrant just after opening

2. Lily fragrance is not harmful to the human body and will not trigger allergies, but an overly strong fragrance may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people and cause symptoms such as dizziness and excitement with difficulty sleeping

3. Lily pollen easily stains clothing and skin. Do not rinse with water, as it will stick more firmly. Use clear tape to lift it off. Even so, cutting off the stamens is a good option

Main hybrid classifications and their detailed advantages and disadvantages

1. Asiatic lily (Asiatic)

Advantages: Many flower colors, short plant height, many buds, upward-facing flowers, early flowering (2-3 months from planting), easy to grow, fast propagation, extremely cold-hardy (can overwinter outdoors in Northeast China)

Disadvantages: Flowers are on the small side (12-15 cm), no fragrance, high light requirements during the bud stage, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion

Representative varieties: Many; most can be chosen with confidence, and there are also potted types around 20-30 cm tall

The potted effect of Asiatic lily 'Spring Field': pot diameter 15 cm, the right side shows the result after chlormequat treatment, and the far left shows the original plant height

Actual potted plants do not reach the labeled plant height (110 cm); that is the height after two to three years of cultivation

Springfield

Tinos

2. Oriental lily (Oriental), together with OT commonly known as fragrant lily, flower-shop cut flower

Advantages: Strong fragrance, large flowers (15-20 cm), low light requirements, flat flower shape, broad leaves, flamboyant and gorgeous blooms

Disadvantages: Some varieties are spindly and prone to falling over, not very heat-tolerant, relatively slow to propagate, late to bloom, and lower leaves yellow more heavily

Representative varieties: Sorbonne (the pale pink flower in flower shops), Siberia (the white flower in flower shops)

Potted Oriental lily effect (famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful; note that the leaves are fewer and broader than those of Asiatic lilies

Sorbonne

3. Musk/Longiflorum lily (Longiflorum), also called Easter lily

Advantages: Elegant and graceful flower shape, very easy to grow, moisture-tolerant, fast propagation, relatively poor cold hardiness, native to the subtropics, does not require low-temperature dormancy

Disadvantages: Only white (all pink and yellow lines are LO hybrids; online shops all labeled them incorrectly this year), pollen easily stains the petals

Representative variety: Everyone has heard of the famous White Heaven, right?

4. LO hybrids - recommended

Advantages: Inherits the flower shape and ease of growing of Longiflorum, and the flower color and fragrance of Oriental lilies. Very easy to grow and propagate, large flowers (18-25 cm), fast development, does not require low-temperature dormancy

Disadvantages: Under high temperatures the flowering period of a single flower is not long, buds are on the few side, insufficient light makes the color fade, and there are relatively few varieties in China

Representative variety: Triumphator is an outstanding representative and is especially recommended. It is one of the lilies that any beginner can keep alive (often sold out...)

Potted effect of Little Triumph; note that it is relatively tall and has large flowers

Under strong light and low temperature the flower color is very intense

5. OT hybrids - recommended

Advantages: Inherits the excellent genes of Trumpet lilies (parents include Lilium regale from Sichuan, etc.). Flower colors are richer than Oriental lilies, heat-tolerant and easy to grow, robust plants, does not require low-temperature dormancy. Stems are very thick, flowers are large (20-25 cm), fragrance is rich, suitable for courtyards and large containers. Commonly called Tree lily abroad

Disadvantages: Often not many flowers in the first year, some varieties have flowers so large they are deformed, flowers easily droop

Representative varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph; color coverage is broad, especially the yellow lines that Oriental lilies lack

Note: Except for Yelloween, yellow varieties generally have fewer buds; even a 16-18 cm bulb has only two to three buds

The perennial Conca D'or; note the height and flower count

Yelloween, large flowers, with a rich fruity sweet fragrance

6. LA hybrids - recommended

Advantages: Propagates even more crazily than Asiatic lilies, large flowers, some varieties lightly fragrant. This type likes to divide bulbs madly and does not abort buds as easily as Asiatic lilies

Disadvantages: Like Asiatic lilies, the flower shape is relatively stiff, flowers are easily deformed, and the flower count is often lower than that of Asiatic lilies

Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, etc. Basically any can be chosen; there are no taboos

Potted effect of Red Alert; compared with Asiatic lilies the flowers are larger and the leaves broader. The Longiflorum flower shape was not inherited, and the fragrance comes and goes

Red Alert

7. Edible lilies

The most common is often the native Chinese species Lilium lancifolium. The plant is tall and slender, with recurved petals. Easy to grow, but not suitable for indoors

Its ornamental value may not match Dutch hybrids; it is one of the parents of Asiatic lilies

A very distinctive recurved, drooping flower type

Sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers to pass it off as fragrant lily

8. Double-flowered lilies

Divided into Asiatic and Oriental types; characteristics and care are the same as above. They are rather like double amaryllis, while the special character of lilies is not strong, they are prone to deformity, and petalization is incomplete

III. Indoor care

1. Light

Not very picky; an enclosed balcony can also work, and east, west and south exposures are all fine

At least 3 hours of direct light, with 4-6 hours being better

The blazing sun of a west-facing exposure may scorch Oriental lily leaves, so moderate protection should be used

Note that when Asiatic lily buds are the size of peanut kernels, they must not lack light, otherwise the buds will abort

2. Soil quality. This is the most important. Water permeability and air permeability are the first principles

I use peat and perlite, but the materials are not limited; as long as it is loose, airy and light, and prevents bulb rot

Peat (sedge peat, sterilized nutrient soil, compost soil, coconut coir): perlite (or various granular growing media) = 2:1 to 1:1

The soil near the bulbs can have more perlite added, which makes it safer

When mixing soil, slow-release fertilizer/organic fertilizer can be evenly blended in. Do not pile it all at the bottom of the bulb; it will not be absorbed and can easily cause bulb rot

3. Moisture

Except that Oriental lilies are best kept evenly moist, the other varieties are very drought-tolerant (especially when planted in the ground), so it is better to err on the side of less than too much. It is fine to water only after the pot becomes light or the surface soil dries out

For each watering you can rely on the weight of the pot; water thoroughly again when it becomes lighter

The signs of overwatering are bulb rot, a large number of lower leaves turning yellow and dropping, scorched buds, and scorched yellow top leaves. If any one appears, be on guard

Underwatering rarely occurs; bulbs and fleshy stems can both store water, so if wilting appears, first suspect bulb rot rather than lack of water

4. Fertilizer and bulb building

Lilies like fertilizer, but fertilizer should be light and frequent; heavy fertilizer will cause leaf burn (scorched leaf tips, dead buds)

If growing for only one season, no fertilization is necessary

If you want them to bloom again year after year, then fertilizing after flowering is very important, mainly with nitrogen and potassium fertilizer

The nutrient absorption ratio of lilies: nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphorus fertilizer is easily fixed and hard to absorb, so fertilizing at a ratio of 1:1:1 or 1:1:1.5 is fine

Remember light but frequent fertilization. Just add a little with each watering. There is no need for heavy fertilizer; its fertilizer requirement is smaller than that of other bulbs

Do not fertilize at sprouting; during rapid growth, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; when buds appear, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; do not fertilize during the flowering period; begin bulb building immediately after flowering, with the fertilizer ratio as described above

5.pH

For Oriental lilies, slightly acidic soil (5.5-6) is best; peat itself is acidic enough

The other varieties are not picky

6. Temperature

Lilies are actually spring-planted bulbs: plant in spring, flower in summer, build bulbs in autumn, store in winter (for most parts of the country)

For the Guangxi and Guangdong regions, where summers are very hot and humid, as well as Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, China, you can consider cold storage in summer, planting in autumn, and enjoying the flowers in winter and spring.

When rooting in spring, keep the temperature at around 12°C, which is most favorable for stem root growth.

In summer, be careful to protect against damage from high temperatures. Low temperatures can extend the flowering period. Among these, OT lilies are very heat-tolerant, so they can bloom under the blazing sun, while Oriental lilies often wither rapidly when the sunlight is strongest.

7. Dormancy

When temperatures are low in winter (0-10°C), they will go dormant (leaves fall and stems turn yellow; at this point, cut off the withered stems).

Ordinary Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5°C) before they can begin growth for the next year.

Lilies with Easter lily (LO, LA, L) and trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round, and there is no need to deliberately create a cold period; it is only necessary for winter temperatures to be below 20°C.

Natural low temperatures can be replaced by refrigeration in a refrigerator at 4°C.

Varieties that are not heat-tolerant may go dormant 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is unfavorable for bulking up the bulb and reblooming. Even more importantly, do not cut off the stems and leaves as soon as flowering ends.

Leaves dropping early and entering dormancy often means bulb rot or severely unfavorable conditions.

8. How to plant

There is no need to soak them in a disinfectant bath.

Try to preserve the basal roots (the old roots at the bottom of the bulb); parts with severe rot can be cut off.

There should be at least 5 cm of soil above the top of the lily bulb to the soil surface. Bulbs should be spaced at least 2-3 cm apart from each other, and the growing tip should lean slightly toward the side of the pot rather than the center of the pot.

9. Planting depth

Lilies have two layers of roots. The ones beneath the bulb are basal roots (which can remain functional for several years), and their absorption function is relatively weak. The bulbs you receive often have basal roots that are rotten and broken, so there is no need to worry.

The base of a newly sprouted shoot will produce several layers of dense, pure white roots called stem roots (annual roots). These are the main force for absorbing nutrients, so the top of the bulb must not be placed at the soil surface.

Moderately deep planting helps avoid heat damage and helps bulk up the bulb.

So the formula is drainage layer + 3-5 cm of bottom soil + the bulb + 5-10 cm of covering soil. Very simple, right~ The pot height should be at least 15 cm.

Water thoroughly to settle the roots, then wait patiently. Do not dig around. After the shoots break through the soil, resume normal care.

As shown in the picture

Here is an updated planting method for beginners: "adding soil in stages - different from the old method of adding all the soil at once."

I forgot to mention this earlier.

When planting lilies for the first time, you can let the soil cover only the lily bulb, and not add soil on top at first, leaving 8-10 cm of space above the soil surface for adding more soil later. Water thoroughly, wait for the shoot to emerge from the top of the bulb, then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5-10 cm from the top of the bulb to the soil surface).

The advantage is that it satisfies everyone's curious and impatient mindset, avoiding the worry of being afraid the bulb will not sprout and wanting to dig it up but not daring to. At the same time, when the shoot grows out, you can adjust its direction, so that it does not emerge crookedly and unattractively from deep in the soil. The first watering is also easier to do thoroughly. (For reference only; this method will not interfere with stem root growth.)

10. After flowering and dormancy

After opening, they can be cut for vase arrangements. They generally fade in 5-7 days. They can also be enjoyed directly on the plant. The length cut should not exceed 1/3 of the plant height (at least 2/3 should remain; the more left, the better, otherwise what will you use to bulk up the bulb?). The stamens can be removed to prevent staining the petals.

After flowering, remove the spent flowers to prevent seed formation.

Try not to force dormancy. Following the lily's own rhythm in this way is the best way to achieve good reblooming results and a good propagation rate.

During dormancy, store them in the original pot, with almost no watering. Give a little water each month to keep the peat slightly moist.

In hot summer regions, you can dig up the bulbs in spring, put them in the refrigerator, and plant them in autumn.

For Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies, around February-March of the following year, when temperatures rise, new shoots will emerge.

Easter lilies may also sprout in autumn. Let them grow and bloom naturally.

IV. Courtyard cultivation

This is very simple.

Planting depth is 15 cm-20 cm in the north, and shallower as appropriate in the south.

Asiatic lilies can be planted throughout China.

Oriental lilies can be planted in the ground with confidence except in South China and Northeast China.

OT, LO, and LA can be planted in the ground south of Liaoning.

Pure Easter lilies can be planted in the ground south of the Yellow River.

In particularly cold areas without snow cover, you can cover them with 5 cm of branches, straw, compost, etc. If there is snow, there is no need to fear they will be frostbitten.

Cold hardiness A > LA >> LO = OT > O >> L

A late spring cold snap may damage newly sprouted lilies, so some covering protection is needed.

Be careful to deep-dig the soil. Heavy clay soil should be raised into ridges, and more organic matter should be added to facilitate drainage (the key among keys). In summer, when it is dry and hot, water occasionally.

V. Lily propagation methods

1. Bulb division

When the main bulb grows to a certain size, the growing points naturally split into two to several connected bulbs (basically all of flowering size). This process begins after flowering and occurs every year. It is the simplest propagation method.

The propagation speed mentioned when introducing varieties refers to the speed of bulb division.

L=LA=A>LO=OT>>O

Oriental lilies may divide every year, or may not divide, depending on cultivation and care. The first five types all divide very readily.

When the number of divided bulbs is too large and the shoots are crowded, you can pull them apart by hand during winter dormancy. It is very simple and will not harm the bulbs.

Asiatic lilies may send up multiple shoots in the first year. Such bulbs often flower poorly, but after one year of growing, they become several plants.

The growing point splits in two, with the remains of that year's old stem in the middle.

2. Stem bulbs

These are actually small daughter bulbs produced on the stem roots. Their number and quality are greatly related to the quality of the stem roots and how well they were cultivated that year. After 1-3 years, they can reach flowering size.

They develop faster than bulbils, equivalent to starting from the second growth stage of bulbils (basal leaves---stem---flower).

Asiatic lilies, Easter lilies, LA, and LO are likewise outstanding in this type of propagation.

Especially LA: the stem bulbs in the first year are very likely to reach the size of flowering bulbs.

The picture shows small bulbs around the stem roots.

3. Bulbils

After Asiatic lilies and tiger lilies flower, especially after bud abortion, they produce small bulbs at the bases of the leaves on the plant, called bulbils. When mature, they often root and fall off.

They develop in the soil. In the first year, they only produce one grass-like leaf. They go dormant in winter, and in the second year they produce a daughter bulb and clustered leaves.

They go dormant again, and in the third year they send up a stem and bloom. Although slow, the quantity is large.

When mature, they are purplish-black.

4. Scales

This is very similar to propagating Amaryllis by cutting the bulb. Remove healthy scales (or scales that accidentally fell off), insert them obliquely in sterilized moist peat or vermiculite, and refrigerate. After one month, small bulbs will grow and can be planted separately. The propagation rate is high, but it is slow.

The development process is the same as for bulbils.

5. Seeds - not recommended

Not recommended unless you are an enthusiast. Aside from species such as Easter lilies and Lilium regale that can be tried, most hybrids either have empty seed coats or grow slowly, and self-pollinated offspring will vary.

6. Cuttings - not recommended

Only applicable to Taiwan lilies (Lilium formosanum) and their hybrids, which can root.

If the stems of cut LO and LA flowers are kept moist, they can produce small bulbils that can be separated and planted, but the stems themselves are difficult to root.

It is basically useless for Oriental lilies and others, so cut flowers from flower shops cannot be grown.

Lilies are monopodial monocots. Once the terminal bud is damaged, that year's reproductive growth (flowering) stops. Therefore, absolutely do not try pinching or cuttings.

VI. Common problems

Basically, the problems gardeners encounter are concentrated in the first two items.

1. Bulb rot - control watering well; better dry than wet

Caused by fungi, with waterlogging as the main trigger. By the time it is discovered, it is often too late. If the basal plate is intact, you can peel off the rotten scales and disinfect before storing.

Symptoms vary. Yellow leaf edges, shedding of lower leaves, plant wilting that does not improve with watering, blackened buds on OT, LO, LA, etc., and obvious growth stagnation are all very likely to indicate bulb rot.

2. Bud abortion

Common in Asiatic lilies. The cause is insufficient light (continuous overcast rain, placed indoors). The phenomenon is that small buds turn from green to brown, then wither and scorch, and they will not bloom that year. Continue to care for the bulb well. For lilies without Asiatic blood, the main cause of bud abortion is bulb rot.

3. Leaf scorch

Strong fertilizer or undecomposed fertilizer can damage the roots, causing severe scorching of leaf tips and withering of buds. At this point, flush the potting soil with plenty of water, and if necessary repot and replace the soil. Oriental lilies are relatively prone to leaf scorch. Be careful that chloride ions and fluoride ions in water and fertilizer are low (phosphate fertilizers such as superphosphate contain more of them; use with caution).

4. Breakage

Handle the same as bud abortion: continue to care for the bulb. Lilies will not produce side branches. A broken terminal bud means they will not bloom that year.

5. Lower leaves turning yellow and falling off

A common problem in lilies, especially severe in Oriental lilies and some Asiatic lilies. This phenomenon is not obvious in LA, LO, and OT. If it is not serious, it basically does not affect ornamental value and can serve as a reflection of the plant's health.

5. Pests

Not common. Occasionally there may be damage from scale insects, Japanese beetles, aphids, etc. Snails may eat buds, so pay attention to protection when planting in the ground.

6. Gray mold

Common in greenhouses with especially high humidity, and during hot, rainy weather. Mold-like spots appear on the leaves. Spray with fungicide to eliminate it.

7. Out-of-season sprouting

For especially vigorous varieties such as Easter lilies, new shoots may emerge in winter near dormancy. Let them grow.

8. Failure to sprout

This is what beginners fear most. Fortunately, unless it is due to bulb rot or shoot rot, this situation is rare. It is often because the bulb has not experienced enough of a cold period and has not yet broken dormancy.

In this case, you can treat it in the refrigerator and plant it after there are signs of sprouting.

9. Deformed shoots, double flowers

Often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs and are related to excessively long cold treatment. Generally they do not affect planting.

VII. Selection, purchase, and storage

Each year suppliers have spring groups and autumn groups.

Spring is a good season to buy lilies. Now all places are taking preorders, with delivery periods from February to April.

The bulbs you buy are often fresh bulbs with very short shoots or no shoots.

In autumn, cold-treated bulbs (to break dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooted bulbs (providing suitable temperatures in summer for stem root growth) are offered, with delivery periods from August to September and fewer varieties. They are recommended for indoor planting in the north and for the Guangxi and Guangdong regions. When planted outdoors in the north, they often dry up in the north wind before they can bloom.

When these bulbs arrive, the shoots are already very long and break easily, so absolutely do not handle them roughly.

Lily bulbs do not store well because they have no protective outer skin. Once dehydrated, they die.

During winter dormancy, they can be left in the original pot without taking them out. Water once a month to keep the potting soil slightly moist.

Those who must take them out of the pot can use a plastic bag filled with moist peat, remove the stems from the dug-up bulbs and bury them inside, then store in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment (not the freezer!) until dormancy is broken and they sprout, then take them out and plant.

VIII. Other

Pots:

The bigger and deeper the pot, the better, as long as drainage is smooth.

For home use

An 18 cm pot can plant three 14-16 cm bulbs.

A 20 cm pot can plant three 16-18 cm bulbs.

You can also use a 15 cm-18 cm pot to plant a single bulb.

This is the minimum standard for pot use. You can increase the pot diameter as appropriate. Do not use shallow pots; the reason has been explained earlier.

Bulb size:

14-16 cm bulbs are mainly L, A, LA, and LO varieties.

For Oriental lilies and OT, you generally need to buy 16-18 cm bulbs to ensure the flower count.

Bulb circumference is strongly related to flower count. Generally they start flowering at 12-14 cm, and 18-20 cm is exhibition level. Easter lily types and OT types can be grown to a circumference of 25 cm.

Plant height:

When first growing lilies, seeing data of 90, 100, 110, 120, or even 130 cm feels terrifying.

However, that is the mature plant height that can only be reached after about two years of growing in the ground.

Potted plants fall far short of the stated height, and modern hybrids have very thick stems, so even with large flowers and many blooms they will not lodging or break.

(In the first year, potted plants reach about 1/2 to 2/3 of the standard height)

In theory, strong light and moderate high temperatures make plants shorter and flower earlier, while weak light and low temperatures make stems elongate and delay flowering.

Asiatic lilies take 70-90 days from planting to flowering, Oriental lilies 90-120 days, and the remaining varieties follow in the order starting with early A.
Please learn to grow lilies with a relaxed approach.

There are now many lily-growing posts on the forums, but fellow gardeners still treat them as too delicate, going into exhaustive detail about how to mix soil, how to disinfect, how to plant, how to water, whether to shade them or put them in the sun. Studying carefully is certainly good, but I think growing flowers should be a kind of leisure, about a calm and unhurried state of mind, rather than being filled with anxiety and worry. What meaning is there in growing flowers then?

Taking care of them too meticulously actually makes it very easy to become overzealous, to the point of digging them up to look almost every day, watering a little every day, moving them here and there, and the result is often too much water, rotted roots, and no flowers.

In fact, under natural conditions there is often a lack of water and fertilizer, pests and diseases run rampant, heavy rain pours down, and fierce winds blow, yet lilies still bloom and set seed year after year, growing and multiplying. If you ignore them, they can grow very well.

★How to grow potted lilies

Growing habits: They like moisture and light, and require fertile sandy soil rich in humus, with a deep soil layer and extremely good drainage. Most varieties are suited to slightly acidic to neutral soil. Specifically, there are the following points:

Lilies like a cool and moist environment. A place with ample sunlight and a slightly shaded environment are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and intense summer heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor.

The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Only above 10°C do plants grow normally. Above 25°C, growth stalls again. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind buds and split flowers.

They like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and most of all dislike hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.

How to grow potted lilies? Potted lily cultivation methods:

1. Planting time: Potted lilies are best planted in September to October.

2. Soil: The growing medium should preferably be mixed from leaf mold, sandy soil, and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, with plenty of fully rotted compost and a small amount of bone meal added at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.

The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulb easily rots. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year, with new growing medium and base fertilizer.

3. Fertilizing: Lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements. Usually it is enough to apply fertilizer when spring growth begins and at the early flowering stage. Some growers abroad believe that lilies need relatively more nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, and should be fertilized once every 10-15 days during the growing period, while phosphorus fertilizer should be limited, because too much phosphorus fertilizer can cause the leaves to turn yellow.

During the flowering period, phosphorus fertilizer can be applied additionally for 1-2 days. To make the bulb plump, spent flowers should be cut off promptly after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growing season and in dry weather it must be watered appropriately more often, and water should often be sprinkled around the flower pot to raise air humidity.

4. Temperature: The suitable growing temperature for lilies is 12-18°C. In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3-5°C, they will not die of cold.

5. Light: Lilies have the characteristics of cold resistance, liking light, tolerating fertilizer, and fearing wetness. Lack of sunlight and long-term shading will affect normal flowering. However, they adapt widely to different regions, and can be grown in the ground or in pots in both the north and the south.

Since lilies are bulbous plants, they can also be planted directly from the bulb. They require deep planting to six or seven cm so that the lateral roots can reach deep and absorb as many nutrients as possible. The growing medium needed is preferably sandy loam, and clay and lime soil should not be used. If pond mud is used for planting, some river sand and crushed charcoal should also be mixed in appropriately, so that the growing medium is loose and airy, allowing timely flowering.

In addition, during the growing period of lilies, the flower pot should be turned once a week. Otherwise the plant tends to grow lopsided, affecting its appearance.

★How to grow lilies

Lilies are undoubtedly a flower that many gardening enthusiasts greatly love. Many gardening enthusiasts want to grow them at home to beautify their rooms, but they do not know how to grow lilies. Here is a brief introduction:

Lilies like a cool and moist environment. A place with ample sunlight and a slightly shaded environment are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and intense summer heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind buds and split flowers. Lilies like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and most of all dislike hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best. Lily propagation includes bulb division, scale cuttings, seed propagation, and tissue culture, among other methods.

I. The growing habits of lilies

Lilies belong to the bulbous flowering plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. They like an environment with ample sunlight and are long-day plants. Light duration not only affects flower bud differentiation but also affects the growth and development of the flowers. Lilies do not like high temperatures and prefer a cool and moist climate. The suitable growing temperature for Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies is 20-25°C during the day, for Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) it is 25-28°C, and the nighttime temperature should be above 14°C. Temperatures above 30°C will severely affect the growth and development of lilies, causing bud abortion, and the flowering rate will also drop markedly. Below 10°C, growth nearly stalls.

II. Soil requirements for lilies

Lilies require soil that is best as sandy loam rich in humus, with a deep and loose soil layer, able to retain appropriate moisture yet drain well. Clay must absolutely not be used to grow lilies.

Lilies like slightly acidic soil. The suitable soil pH for Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) is 6-7, and the suitable soil pH for Oriental lilies is 5.5-6.5; lilies are generally not salt-tolerant, and the content of fluorine and chlorine in the soil is both required to be below 50 mg/L, with total soil salinity not exceeding 1.5 ms/cm.

III. Preparatory work before planting

1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, the soil must be disinfected. Common disinfection methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is rarely used now because it consumes a lot of energy and is troublesome to operate. Chemical disinfection uses

40% formalin diluted to a 1:50 or 1:100 solution and sprinkled onto the soil, at a rate of 2.5 kg per sq m. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and let it air and dry for 10-15 days before planting. Alternatively, carbendazim technical powder at 8-10 g/sq m can be spread into the soil for disinfection.

2. Thawing and disinfection of bulbs: After the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them in a 10-15°C environment to thaw. After they are completely thawed, disinfect them. Disinfection method: Soak the bulbs in a one-thousandth aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, potassium permanganate, etc. for 30 minutes. The bulbs can also be soaked in an 80-fold dilution of 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes, then taken out and rinsed with clean water to wash off the residual solution on the bulbs, and then dried in a cool place before planting. At some domestic planting bases, before planting, the original basal roots are cut off, which helps promote new basal roots.

3. Storage of bulbs: If thawed bulbs cannot all be planted immediately, they must not be frozen again, otherwise there is a risk of freezing damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for no more than two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C for no more than one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened.

IV. Planting depth and density

For spring and summer planting, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10 cm below the soil surface, and in winter 6-8 cm. Planting density varies depending on the variety, bulb size, and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, they can be planted more densely; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, they should be planted more sparsely.

The planting density of lily bulbs of different groups and different specifications (expressed as the number of bulbs per sq m) is listed below for everyone's reference:

V. Management after planting

1. Temperature: To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be kept at a low temperature of 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature will unnecessarily prolong the growing period, while a temperature above 15°C will lead to poor development of stem roots. These stem roots will soon replace the basal roots in supplying 90% of the plant's water and nutrients, so to obtain high-quality lilies, the development of stem roots is crucial. After the rooting period, the ambient temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C, and the ambient temperature for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) should be controlled at 14-23°C. If the daytime temperature is too high, ventilation and shading should be used to lower the temperature; if the nighttime temperature reaches 15-25°C, lily cut flower stems will be short, buds few, and quality reduced. At this time, (domestically some growers) use a gibberellin solution sprayed on the plants to increase stem length. The specific amount varies with different growth stages and different ambient temperatures; generally less can be used at the early growth stage and more later. Domestic solar greenhouses in winter generally prolong the growing period of lilies and severely affect cut flower quality, so means of temperature regulation should be increased.

2. Humidity: The soil moisture before planting is best when a handful squeezed tightly forms a ball and it crumbles when dropped. In hotter seasons, before planting, if conditions permit, water once with cold water to lower the soil temperature. After planting, water once more so that the soil and bulbs are fully in contact, creating good conditions for the development of stem roots. Subsequent watering should be based on keeping the soil moist, that is, a handful of soil forms a ball when squeezed but does not release water. Watering is generally done on a sunny morning. The relative humidity is best at 80%-85%, and large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.

3. Fertilizer: In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume the nutrients stored in their own scales, so too much base fertilizer is not needed before planting. One month after planting, some fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing depending on soil fertility. Lilies have a very large demand for potassium, and a compound fertilizer can be prepared in the ratio N-

P2O5-K2O = 14:7:21. Apply as a top dressing at 10 kg per mu each time, once every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. At the same time, attention should also be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron, and zinc.

4. Light: Light is an important condition for controlling quality, and lily flower bud development especially requires ample light. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth and cause lily bud drop, lighter leaf and flower colors, and a shortened vase life. When growing lilies in winter in northern China, due to the influence of insulation materials such as glass or plastic film, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked, so in addition to keeping the surface of the glass and plastic film clean to allow good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can be done with incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. When producing lilies in summer, strong direct sunlight must also be avoided, generally using shade nets for shading. Asiatic and Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily) are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies are shaded 50%.

5. Carbon dioxide: Carbon dioxide is beneficial to the growth and flowering of lilies. On sunny days from 8-10 in the morning, in an unventilated shed, apply carbon dioxide gas pills to increase the carbon dioxide content in the shed. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang one plastic bucket every 15-20 m (the height of the bucket from the ground is 1 m), fill the bucket with a 20% sodium bicarbonate solution (the baking soda commonly used at home is sodium bicarbonate), then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions. Sodium bicarbonate reacts with sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A solar greenhouse 60 m long and 7 m wide requires 1.7 kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1 kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (concentration 98%).

VI. Harvesting and storage of lily cut flowers

1. Harvesting: Harvest only after at least 2-3 flower buds have colored. Harvesting too early affects flower color, the flowers will look pale and unattractive, and some buds will not open. Harvesting too late will make post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, the petals will be soiled by pollen, and already opened flowers will release ethylene, greatly shortening the freshness period of the flowers.

2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. A grading interval of 10 cm is suitable. In a bundle of lilies, the longest and shortest stems should preferably not differ by more than 5 cm, and the flower tops should be aligned.

3. Storage: Bundled lilies should be immediately placed in clean, pre-chilled water, then placed in a cold storage room. The temperature of the water and the cold storage room is best at 2-3°C.

VII. Common pests and diseases of lilies and their control methods

1. Lily fungal diseases

(1) Blue mold

Symptoms: During storage, white spots grow on rotting scale spots, and then fluffy green-blue patches grow. After infection, even at a low temperature of -2°C, the rot will gradually increase. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, making the bulb worthless or causing the plant to grow slowly. Although infected bulbs look unhealthy, as long as the basal plate of the bulb is intact, the plant's growth during planting will not be affected. After planting, the infection will not transfer to the stem, nor will it infect the plant from the soil.

Control: Store the bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature; do not plant bulbs whose basal plate has already been damaged; diseased bulbs must be soaked for 30 minutes in a one-thousandth aqueous solution of fungicides such as captan, chlorothalonil, or carbendazim before planting, and then planted. After planting, maintain an appropriate soil temperature.

(2) Bulb and scale rot and stem diseases caused by Fusarium

Symptoms: Plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, and the leaves are pale green. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of the scales, on the sides, or where the scales join the basal plate. These spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate stem is infected, the entire bulb will rot. The stem disease caused by Fusarium is a disease that infects the aboveground parts. The identifying sign is that the basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and the yellowed leaves turn brown and fall off. On the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, which later enlarge and finally extend into the interior of the stem. Afterward the stem rots, and finally the plant dies before maturity:

Control: a. Disinfect infected soil; b. Plant mildly or moderately infected bulbs as quickly as possible, and the soil temperature should be low.

(3) Rhizoctonia

Symptoms: If the infection is mild, it only harms the leaves in the soil and the green leaves at the lower part of young shoots, with sunken light brown spots appearing on the leaves. Generally speaking, although the plant's growth is somewhat affected, it can still continue to grow. In severely infected plants, the upper growth is hindered, and the white underground leaves as well as the lowest aboveground leaves will rot or wilt and fall off, leaving only brown scars on the stem:

Control: Disinfect soil suspected of infection with a soil disinfectant. After disinfection, it must be ensured that the soil is no longer reinfected; if the previous crop has already shown infection, general soil disinfectants cannot be applied, so before planting, pre-treat the soil with an agent for controlling Rhizoctonia (fully incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 cm).

(4) Phytophthora

Symptoms: Phytophthora foot rot will hinder growth or cause sudden wilting. Soft rot occurs at the infected area at the base of the stem, becoming dark green to dark brown and spreading upward, the leaves turn yellow, and discoloration begins at the base of the stem. Similar soft rot infections often also occur on the aboveground stem, causing the stem to damp off or bend.

Control: Disinfect infected soil with a general soil disinfectant; during cultivation, fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot; ensure the soil has good drainage conditions; prevent the crop from remaining wet for a long time after watering; in summer the soil temperature should be as low as possible.

(5) Pythium

Symptoms: This type of fungus infects both individual plants and plants within an area. Plants are stunted, lower leaves turn yellow, upper leaves become narrower, leaf color is lighter, and they often wilt. Plants affected by root rot have flower buds that shrivel. When the plant is pulled up, transparent, light brown rot spots can be seen on the bulb and root crown, or they have completely softened and rotted.

Control: Disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with a general soil disinfectant; maintain a low soil temperature in the early cultivation period, and adopt correct cultivation procedures throughout the cultivation period; cultivation in boxes containing potting soil and peat can keep Pythium under control.

After the crop has emerged or where Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides for controlling Pythium that are easy to spray onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the fungicide will significantly enhance the effect of the fungicide, and can also rinse the crop clean.

2. Abnormal phenomena

(1) Leaf scorch

Symptoms: First, young leaves curl slightly inward. After a few days, yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If leaf scorch is mild, the plant can still continue normal growth, but if leaf scorch is severe, the white spots can turn brown, and the leaves bend where the damage occurs. In very severe cases, all leaves and young shoots will fall off and the plant will not develop further. This is called the most severe form of scorch. Control: The soil should be kept moist before planting; it is best not to use susceptible varieties; the planting depth should be appropriate, with 6-10 cm of soil above the bulb; during periods of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to keep relative humidity at around 75%.

(2) Bud drop and bud shriveling

Symptoms: Bud drop occurs when flower buds reach 1-2 cm. The color of the bud turns pale green, and at the same time the pedicel connecting it to the stem shortens, after which the bud falls off. In spring, the lower buds are affected first, while in autumn the upper buds will fall off first.

Control: Do not cultivate varieties prone to bud drop in environments with poor light. To prevent bud shriveling, the bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure the bulbs have a good root system and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, with particular attention to light and transpiration.

★How should potted lilies be grown

How potted lilies should be grown is what many gardening enthusiasts who want to grow lilies themselves want to know. Many articles online are very theoretical, leaving gardeners feeling uncertain, so let us use a practical case to explain in detail how to grow potted lilies.

First, a brief introduction: Lilies are perennial herbaceous bulbous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, mainly distributed in temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere such as eastern Asia, Europe, and North America. More than a hundred varieties have been found worldwide. China is its most important place of origin, with more than fifty native species, and is the center of natural distribution of plants in the genus Lilium.

I. The materials needed for planting lilies are as follows:

1. Soil: Lilies are not very strict about soil, as long as it does not waterlog. Ordinary garden soil is generally suitable too; of course, nutrient soil is even better, and for the more particular, peat is also perfectly fine.

2. Pot: This needs attention. Lily roots are relatively well developed, so a relatively deep and large pot is suitable; small pots are not suitable! The case below uses a 2-gallon pot.

3. Location choice: Some gardening enthusiasts may ask whether a balcony at home with no light is okay, or whether they can grow them on a rooftop terrace. Here it should be said that lilies like a cool and moist environment, and a place with ample sunlight and a slightly shaded environment are more suitable for lilies. They dislike drought and intense summer heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for lily growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Only above 10°C do plants grow normally. Above 25°C, growth stalls again. If the winter nighttime temperature stays below 5°C for 5-7 days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be severely affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind buds and split flowers.

II. First, a feast for the eyes

The bulbs in the picture below are lily bulbs just received a few days ago. They look pretty good, right! A total of five were purchased, and they will not all be posted one by one. Several hundred gardening enthusiasts on the forum have joined the group buy!

III. Planting process

First: I planned to divide my 5 bulbs between 2 flower pots. I first checked the colors of the bulbs: Siberia has 2 (this is because another variety was originally held by customs and replaced) and is white, Marlon is pink, Yelloween is yellow, and Tiber is also pink. I planned to plant Siberia and Marlon in white flower pots, and the other three in 2+ pots, so they would look brilliant when flowering.

Second: First clean the flower pots thoroughly, lay breathable coarse coal cinder at the very bottom, and cover with soil.

Third: Sprinkle some phosphorus fertilizer on the soil (bone meal can also be used as a substitute). If there is no bone meal, chicken manure can also be used as a substitute to ensure nutrition for flowering.

Fourth: Cover with soil again. After covering with soil, sprinkle carbendazim (I carefully checked the root bulbs and found no mold. Gardening enthusiasts who received diseased root bulbs can soak the root bulbs in carbendazim before planting).

Fifth: Cover with soil again and place the root bulb in. You can use scissors to cut off the root systems that have already dried out, then cover with soil. Generally it can be level with the upper sprout of the root bulb. Leave a distance between the soil surface and the rim of the pot for filling in soil later. This depth is not enough.

Sixth: Water thoroughly, then place in a cool, open-air spot.

IV. Answering questions during the planting process

Overall, lilies are very easy to grow. As long as the bulbs are bought correctly, the flowering and survival rate is almost 100%. The growing period generally ranges from about 90-150 days depending on the variety;

1. How many lilies can be planted in one pot

It depends on the size of the pot. For a 2-gallon pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, planting 1-3 is fine!

2. Can lilies rebloom

Whether lilies rebloom relatively speaking mainly depends on the first year of planting. If the first year of planting is good, reblooming in the second year is no problem.

3. Are lilies very fragrant

Different lily varieties have different concentrations of fragrance. Whether a specific one is fragrant can be determined according to the variety description at the time of purchase.

★Lily cultivation techniques

Authors: Zhu Yunyi, Yang Ming

Lilies are bulbous herbaceous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. Lily stems are upright and elegant, the leaves are emerald green, the flower shapes are unusual, the flowers are large and brightly colored, and the colors are elegant. Lilies carry the meaning of a harmonious union lasting a hundred years, and are very endearing. They are one of the bulbous flowers widely cultivated at home and abroad today. The introduction and cultivation of lilies in China are gradually expanding, and market sales are increasingly active.

I. Morphological characteristics

Lilies are perennial herbaceous plants. The bulb is a non-tunicate bulb, spherical in shape, pale white, formed by the aggregation of several fleshy, thick, ovate-spatulate scales; the stem is upright, with stem roots at the underground stem nodes, the stem is cylindrical or rhombic-columnar, the aboveground stem is upright and sturdy, green and smooth, the stem diameter is 3-10 mm, and the plant height is 70-200 cm; the leaves are scattered or alternate, sessile, lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, entire, with a total of more than 100 leaves; the flowers are borne singly in several leaf axils at the top of the stem, with 1-10 flowers, large, trumpet-shaped, with different flower colors and fragrances depending on the variety.

II. Requirements for environmental conditions

1. Temperature. Lilies like a warm environment with ample sunlight, are relatively cold-tolerant, and fear high temperatures, strong light, and high humidity. The suitable growing temperature for lilies is 15-25°C. Below 10°C, growth is slow. Above 30°C, growth is poor and leaf burn occurs. During growth, a daytime temperature of 21-23°C and a nighttime temperature of 15-17°C are best. However, bulbs have a dormant period and must go through low-temperature storage at 3-7°C for 4-6 weeks to break the bulb dormancy, and only then can they sprout when planted.

2. Light. Lilies like soft light, and also tolerate strong light and semi-shade. Insufficient light will cause flower buds to drop. With ample light, plants are sturdy, shorter, and the flowers are vivid. Lilies are long-day plants; long light hours cause earlier flowering, and short light hours delay flowering.

3. Water. When planting lily bulbs, the furrow should be filled with 3/4 water, allowing the water to fully seep into the bed surface. After that, when water is lacking, irrigate with running water, and simply keep the soil moist for a long time. This can increase the sprouting rate of the bulbs, make sprouting uniform, and benefit stem and leaf growth.

4. Nutrients. Lilies are bulb cut flower plants, like phosphorus and potassium, and avoid excessive nitrogen. Sufficient phosphorus and potassium help improve flower quality and the formation and plumpness of the bulb. Excessive nitrogen is unfavorable for flower and bulb formation, and flower quality is poor and weak. Fertilization should be mainly organic fertilizer, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement.

III. Cultivation techniques

1. Reasonably arrange the planting period. At present, lilies are grown in Hunan, Sichuan, Henan, Jiangsu, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Zhejiang, Guangdong, and other places in China. We should make full use of the climate conditions unique to our south in winter, and arrange the harvest period within the period from late December to May 1, trying to avoid competing for the market with lilies grown in other provinces, striving to sell at a good price and obtain greater income and better economic benefits. Lilies generally take 80-130 days from planting to harvest and market. Planting early (such as before the Autumn Equinox) means high temperatures, long daylight, and strong light, so the time from planting to harvest is shortened; planting late (such as after the Cold Dew) means low temperatures, short daylight, and weak light, so the time from planting to harvest is prolonged. If they are to be marketed at Christmas, they should be planted in mid-to-late September; if marketed at Spring Festival, they should be planted in mid-to-late October.

2. Select the land, prepare the soil finely, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Choose plots with deep soil layers, loose and fertile soil, high and resistant terrain, and good drainage for planting. Planting lilies in plots with half shade and half sun and slightly acidic soil is even better. Lilies avoid continuous cropping, and plots where the previous crop was pepper, eggplant, or similar crops should not be chosen; leguminous or grass crops are better.

3. Build frames and cover with shade nets for shading. To meet the light, temperature, and humidity requirements of lilies during growth, since lilies like soft light (semi-shade) and fear high temperatures and strong light, after preparing the land and making the beds, frames and shade nets should be set up before the bulbs sprout. Shade nets with a shading rate of 70-80% are best. For planting from April to August, an additional layer of shade net should be added to lower the field temperature and light intensity, increase field humidity, avoid or reduce high-temperature and strong-light burning of plant leaves, and promote the growth of stems and leaves. But when the daytime maximum temperature drops to 26°C (generally in early December), the shade net should be uncovered to increase light intensity and promote stem and leaf growth. When the average temperature is below 10°C, nylon film should then be covered again to increase temperature and retain moisture, ensuring normal growth of lilies and harvest and flowering as expected.

4. Reasonable close planting. Since lilies tolerate semi-shade, on the basis of applying sufficient base fertilizer, they can be planted more densely. Generally, 12000-18000 bulbs can be planted per mu, with a plant and row spacing of 15-20 x 10-15 cm, and a bulb planting depth of 10 cm (at least the height of 3 bulbs), so as to prevent sunlight from burning the root system. After planting, spray butachlor to control early weeds in the field.

5. Field management. After full sprouting, before the seedlings reach 20 cm, in combination with cultivating and weeding, apply a top dressing of 500 kg of human and livestock manure and 10 kg of superphosphate per mu, or apply 10-15 kg of high-quality compound fertilizer (containing 15% each of nitrogen, P2O5, and K2O) plus 5 kg of urea. The fertilizer solution concentration should be dilute rather than concentrated; too high a concentration easily damages roots and inhibits growth. It should be applied frequently and lightly, once every 8-10 days. When applying top dressing, avoid the fertilizer solution directly contacting the bulbs and plant stems, to prevent rot of the bulbs and stems. If the fertilizer solution gets on the stems and leaves, spray clean water immediately after applying the fertilizer solution to rinse off the fertilizer solution on the stems and leaves, so as not to damage the leaves and plants. But when the winter temperature drops below 8°C, fertilization should be stopped and only resumed when the temperature rises again. After lilies sprout, deep cultivating and weeding should no longer be done, so as not to damage the root system; weeds should be pulled as soon as they appear to prevent weed damage.

6. Water management. Because lilies like moisture, fear waterlogging, and avoid drought, on rainy days the furrows should often be cleared of accumulated water, and in drought they should be irrigated to maintain moisture, ensuring that after a person walks through the bed ditch, footprints remain (but the feet do not sink), that the surface soil of the bed does not show white, that the surface soil between beds forms a ball when grasped by hand, and that when released from a height of one meter above the ground the soil ball lands in a scattered state.

7. Timely control of pests and diseases. Lilies have relatively few pests and diseases. The main diseases are anthracnose, gray mold, damping-off, root rot, and bulb rot. Anthracnose can be controlled with chlorothalonil, Score, Ridomil, anthracnose Fumei, etc.; gray mold can be controlled with mancozeb, procymidone, 50% iprodione, chlorothalonil, or 1% Bordeaux mixture; for damping-off, first remove diseased plants, then control with 1% Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, Tuzet, etc.; for root rot and bulb rot, before planting mix seeds with 0.5% quintozene to prevent disease occurrence, and in the early stage of disease, drench or spray with 50% amobam 300-500 times solution. For disease control in lilies, spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. The main pests are aphids and white grubs. Aphids and white grubs often gather on tender leaves and flower buds to suck sap, causing plants to shrivel and grow poorly. They can be controlled with fenvalerate, omethoate, pirimicarb, Dagongshen, etc. When controlling pests and diseases, it is best to add some foliar fertilizer, which both controls pests and diseases and promotes stem and leaf growth.

8. Harvest bulbs at the right time. When the underground bulbs swell, are plump and full, and the aboveground stems and leaves yellow or even dry up and fall off, the bulbs can be harvested. Keep the root system on the harvested bulbs, remove the loose soil completely, stack them by grade, and later pack them into cold storage for low-temperature treatment.

★Cultivation techniques for Oriental lilies

With the improvement of people's living standards, the sales of fresh flowers are increasing day by day. In 2007, we introduced and cultivated Oriental lilies in small batches with success. The cultivation techniques are now introduced as follows:

1 Land preparation

Deeply plow the soil to 30 cm; per 667 sq m, apply 2-3 m3 of peat or decomposed fallen pine needles, 3-5 kg of ferrous sulfate, and 500-1000 kg of organic fertilizer such as puffed chicken manure, so that the soil pH is slightly acidic at 6-6.5; also add 1.5-2.5 kg of thiram or 2000-3000 ml of soil fungicide for disinfection.

2 Making beds

Make raised beds 20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide, with a 40 cm path between two beds, and the length depending on the site.

3 Planting

The planting time must be determined by two indicators: the flower supply time and the growth cycle of the variety. Be sure to use bulbs whose dormancy has already passed. The dormancy period varies with variety; generally, after the leaves turn yellow and the bulbs are lifted, dormancy can be broken in 80-120 days in an environment of 0-4°C. For bulb disinfection, mix 5-10 g of carbendazim per kg for seed dressing, or soak the bulbs in a 2% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 10 minutes before planting. When planting, first scrape the topsoil about 8 cm deep from the bed surface to one side, then use a nail board or tree root cut to the measured size to punch holes at set spacing. Generally, for medium-sized bulbs the density in spring and autumn is 13 cm x 13 cm; for large bulbs increase by 1 cm, and for small bulbs decrease by 1 cm. In winter the spacing is slightly larger, and in summer it is denser. Generally, about 20,000 bulbs are planted per 667 sq m. After punching the holes, place the bulbs on the holes, then fill back the bed soil that was scraped to one side and rake it level.

4 Water management

After planting, water thoroughly with drip irrigation or sprinkler irrigation; except in summer, flood irrigation is prohibited. Afterward, water the seedbed whenever it looks dry, watering until it connects with the moist lower soil layer. Avoid waterlogging to prevent root rot. In very dry weather, spray water on the leaves and keep the relative air humidity at about 70%.

5 Temperature management

After the bulbs are planted, it takes 20-30 days until emergence; during this period the temperature should be about 12°C to promote rooting. After emergence, raise the temperature; otherwise, the plants are easily infected by various diseases. Therefore, winter production requires heating with oil furnaces or small boilers, while in summer shade nets or ground cover with grass should be used to lower the temperature.

6 Light management

When planting lilies in winter, choose day-neutral lilies as much as possible and do not use long-day lilies, while in spring, summer and autumn long-day varieties are also acceptable. Lilies prefer light and are not tolerant of shade; supplementary lighting in winter gives better growth. If not supplementing light, open the straw curtains as early as possible and cover them late to extend the lighting time. In summer, if a 30% shading shade net can be used to block part of the strong light, it will help lilies grow faster and enlarge the flowers.

7 Nutrition management

Start topdressing after the young seedlings grow stems and the leaves on the stems unfold. Apply chemical fertilizer once every 10-15 days, using 4-5 kg each of diammonium phosphate and potassium nitrate mixed per 667 sq m. When the plant height is 60 cm, spray 2%-3% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves every 7-10 days. If the whole leaf surface turns yellow, spray 0.5% urea; if the small leaves turn yellow, spray 0.1% ferrous sulfate, while also adding trace fertilizers such as copper and zinc. When the flower buds are 6 cm long, stop topdressing.

8 Pest and disease control

The main diseases of lilies include black spot, gray mold and rust, which can be controlled by spraying 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution; pests include white grubs and aphids, which can be controlled by spraying 25% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution.

★Open-field cultivation techniques for lilies

Open-field cultivation is also a commonly used production method for cut-flower lilies. It has advantages such as low production cost and simple cultivation management, but the disadvantages of open-field cultivation are also obvious: the flowering period is not easy to control, and low product quality are the main factors affecting open-field production of cut-flower lilies.

1. Land selection

For open-field cultivation of lilies, choose land with high, open terrain, good drainage and loose soil. High-altitude cool mountainous areas or areas by lakes and rivers and peninsulas are ideal locations for growing lilies. Northwest Yunnan Province, Xichang in Sichuan, the Qinba mountainous area in Shaanxi, Anshan in Liaoning, and Lanzhou in Gansu in China can all serve as bases for open-field production of cut-flower lilies.

Soil improvement

Generally speaking, the soil used for producing lilies does not occupy as vast an area as that for grain crops. If the soil texture is unsuitable, local soil replacement can be used to create a suitable soil environment. When locally replacing the soil for a lily plot, first dig out the original soil from the rows where lilies are to be planted, and add soft, good soil media. So-called soil media refer to man-made materials configured to replace soil. Commonly used soil media include pine needle soil, peat, fermented wood chips, vermiculite, perlite, etc. Mix these materials with soil in a certain proportion and fill them into the planting furrows for lilies, then plant the lilies. In addition, attention should be paid to measuring the soil pH of the cultivation site.

How to improve soil pH: 6 weeks before planting, take soil samples for analysis and determine the salt and oxide content, pH, and nutrient content. If the salt content and chloride content exceed the standard, a large amount of irrigation water must be used to dilute the salts in the soil. Maintaining the correct pH helps the lily root system absorb nutrients from the soil. Applying peat mixed with topsoil can lower pH, and using ammonium fertilizer and urea can also lower pH. In addition, mixing a small amount of sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate into the soil can also help lower soil pH. If the soil pH is too low, mix lime-containing compounds or magnesium-containing lime with the soil before planting. After using lime, wait at least 1 week before planting. During the growth stage, it is best to use nitrate nitrogen fertilizer, which can raise pH.

2. Crop rotation

In order to prevent the massive occurrence of lily pests and diseases, crop rotation should be implemented. Before planting, an overall plan should be made for the land used, and every plot planted with cut-flower lilies should be rotated every year. During rotation, the previous crop should not be bulb flowers of the Liliaceae or Amaryllidaceae families; planting legumes is most suitable.

Base fertilizer

Among the fertilizers applied before planting lilies, base fertilizer is generally an organic fertilizer with long-lasting fertilizer effect. There are two ways to prepare base fertilizer: one is to mix 1/3 of various humus fertilizers (organic fertilizer mixed from decomposed leaf mold, compost, peat, cake fertilizer, etc.) into the soil and configure a 30 cm deep furrow; first spread the above mixed soil in the furrow, then plant the lilies. Lilies planted in this mixed soil generally grow better. The mixed soil both improves the soil and achieves the purpose of applying base fertilizer.

3. Planting

Planting period: open-field cultivation of lilies is mostly autumn planting, while cold regions use spring planting.

Taking Beijing's climate conditions as an example, the lowest temperature in January in winter is generally -8 to -15°C, and most cut-flower lilies can overwinter in the open field. Summer is relatively hot, and the highest temperature in July can reach 33-36°C. Therefore, lilies are in a semi-dormant period during this time. According to Beijing's climatic characteristics, lilies can be planted in autumn or spring. Autumn planting is generally carried out in September-October when the temperature drops significantly. Lilies planted in autumn develop good root systems and grow robustly, with more flowers the next year. Spring planting is generally carried out in March-April when the temperature begins to rise. They sprout in April-May and bolt and form buds in May-June. Mid-June to the end of July is the peak flowering season for open-field cut-flower lilies.

The flowering periods of autumn-planted and spring-planted lilies differ little, but the stem height and number of flowers of spring-planted lilies are inferior to those of autumn-planted lilies.

Topdressing

For open-field cultivation of lilies, topdressing should be carried out in the early growth stage, late growth stage and bud stage respectively. In the early growth stage, apply 37.5 kg of diammonium phosphate and 75 kg of urea per hectare; in the late growth stage, apply 75 kg of diammonium phosphate and 22.5 kg of monopotassium phosphate per hectare. The fertilization method is to dissolve the above fertilizers in water and irrigate. In the bud stage, apply 22.5 kg of potassium sulfate, 30 kg of monopotassium phosphate and 0.3 kg of boric acid per hectare, sprayed on the leaves at 0.1%.

Irrigation

Open-field cultivated lilies can obtain part of their water from natural rainfall, but because it is often not timely, it is far from enough to meet the needs of normal plant growth and development, especially in dry seasons, when timely irrigation is even more important. For open-field cultivation of lilies, methods such as flood irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation can be chosen according to local conditions. Flood irrigation is to introduce water directly onto the bed surface, causing soil compaction. Sprinkler irrigation distributes water evenly and can increase air humidity. Drip irrigation uses a low-pressure pipeline system to make irrigation water form droplets, slowly and continuously moistening the soil within the range of the plant root activity. Modern cut-flower cultivation often combines sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation: sprinkler irrigation creates a suitable air humidity environment for plant growth, and drip irrigation supplies the water needed for plant root activity. The amount, frequency and timing of irrigation often vary with season, soil quality and cultivated variety. As for the amount of water each time, the principle should be thorough watering and moderation. In summer, temperatures are high and evaporation is large, so irrigation frequency should be greater; in autumn and early [season], water demand is small, so watering should be minimized, and one freezing-water irrigation should be given before the soil freezes. Clay soil should be irrigated less frequently, while sandy soil should be irrigated more frequently. During the day, irrigation in summer should be done in the morning and evening, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is relatively small and will not affect root activity.

4. Intertillage and weeding

In open-field cultivation of lilies, the soil tends to become compacted after rainfall or watering, which is unfavorable for root growth. In addition, because weeds have strong reproductive capacity, they grow together with lily plants and compete for water, nutrients, sunlight and space, and can also lead to pest and disease problems in lily plants. Therefore, timely intertillage and weeding must be carried out to create a good living environment for lily plant growth.

Intertillage should be carried out in combination with loosening the soil after irrigation. The depth of intertillage should be: shallow hoeing at the seedling stage to prevent root damage; shallow hoeing near the plants, and deep hoeing in the rows away from the plants. When the lilies grow luxuriantly and the field closes in, there is no need to loosen the soil anymore.

Weeding should be carried out as early as possible at the initial stage of weed occurrence, and must be completely cleared before the weeds set seed. As for weeding methods, small areas are mainly hand-weeded, while large areas can use mechanical weeding or chemical weeding.

5. Netting and staking

Open-field cultivated lilies are often vulnerable to adverse weather such as wind, rain and hail, so nets and stakes must be set up in time to prevent the plants from lodging.

6. Topdressing

Lilies are a potassium-loving crop. According to nutrient analysis of Yixing lily plants at various growth stages, K2O content was the highest in all cases. The average content in aboveground stems and leaves at each growth stage was 3.76%, which is 5.55 times the K2O5 content and 1.59 times the N content; the average K2O content in underground bulbs at each growth stage was 2.16%, which is 4.48 times the K20 content and 1.59 times the N content. The seedling stage is the period with the highest K2O content among all growth stages, with 4.70% in stems and leaves and 2.88% in bulbs. As for the proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in lily plants at various growth stages, the periods with the highest K2O proportion in both aboveground stems and leaves and bulbs were the middle and late growth stages of lilies, namely the bulbil harvest period and the full flowering period (the beginning of decline of aboveground stems and leaves). The ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in aboveground stems and leaves were 1:0.20:1.98 and 1:0.22:2.22 respectively; the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in bulbs were 1:0.41:1.79 and 1:0.34:1.66. The traditional cultivation of Yixing lily involves covering with rice straw and applying organic fertilizers such as pig manure and cake fertilizer, which can supply large amounts of potassium. Generally, about 450 kg of dry rice straw is used per mu. Experiments have shown that if rice straw is not covered, yield decreases by 14.48%. Increasing potassium fertilizer for lilies can promote rooting during overwintering and growth at the seedling stage, and meet the peak potassium demand of lily plants in the middle and late stages. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transport of carbohydrates in the crop. When potassium supply is sufficient, the content of lignin, cellulose and starch in lily plants increases, and the carbohydrates formed by photosynthesis are quickly transported to the bulbs, promoting bulb enlargement. Experiments show that applying 15 kg, 10 kg of potassium sulfate and 75 kg of plant ash per mu generally increases yield by 10% compared with the control. Among them, plant ash gave the highest yield. In potassium-deficient fields, the yield increase from potassium fertilizer is even more significant, with the highest increase reaching 54.29%, and each kg of potassium sulfate can increase lily yield by 32.76 kg. At the same time as lilies emerge, new daughter bulbs also differentiate and develop in the heart buds of the seed bulbs, so it is necessary to promote strong seedlings and early growth in the early stage. Through repeated experiments, lily fertilizer management should adhere to the principle of "heavy at the front, controlled in the middle, supplemented later" and the two "mainly" fertilization methods, namely mainly organic fertilizer, applied at planting time and before emergence, accounting for more than 70% of the total fertilization amount. Generally, base fertilizer per mu includes about 450 kg of dry rice straw, 2.5 tons of high-quality pig manure, 50-75 kg of decomposed cake fertilizer, 30 kg of standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 20-30 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15-20 kg of potassium fertilizer. When hilling soil before emergence, apply 50 kg of cake fertilizer, 15 kg of standard nitrogen chemical fertilizer, 10 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15 kg of potassium fertilizer per mu (or 30-40 kg of three-element compound fertilizer alone). If there is no potassium fertilizer, increase plant ash by 100 kg. For Yixing lily with a yield of more than 1000 kg per mu, the total fertilization amount is 42.7 kg of pure nitrogen, 514.1 kg of K2O, and 56.2 kg of K2O, with a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio of 1:0.33:1.32. Experiments with different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium chemical fertilizers show that the optimal application rate of chemical nitrogen fertilizer is K2O5,6 kg per mu, and chemical potassium K2O7.5-22.5 kg. The suitable soil pH for lily growth is pH 5.7-6.3. Soils along the Taihu Lake region are generally neutral to acidic, with pH between 6.5 and 5.0. The results of phosphate fertilizer type experiments show that calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer is more effective than superphosphate. Lily bulbs are fresh and tender. Under the influence of the free acid in superphosphate, the rate of rotten and missing lily plants increases, and diseases are severe, with the disease incidence reaching 60% and the disease index as high as 52.5%, reducing yield by 4.6% compared with applying calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, and the bulb color is also poor. On alkaline soil with pH above 7.5, applying superphosphate can appropriately regulate soil pH and benefit lily growth.

★Cultivation of perfume lilies

Perfume lily, namely Oriental lily, is one of the ten most popular flowers in the world today. Because of its beautiful flower shape, bright colors and rich fragrance, it is an ideal material for gift bouquets, flower baskets and artistic flower arrangements. Since China's reform and opening up, it has developed rapidly. Especially in recent years, due to the sharp increase in flower consumption in China, its planting area has continued to expand, and perfume lily has become an indispensable category among fresh flowers. Its cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:

I. Land selection, bed preparation and disinfection

(1) Land selection. Because perfume lily bulbs degenerate quickly and have strict requirements for the cultivation environment, suitable planting areas are hard to find, so the selection of the planting site is also of paramount importance. Perfume lilies prefer cool, humid climates and semi-shaded environments. The soil should be deep, loose, well-drained, rich in humus and slightly acidic.

(2) Bed preparation. The bed surface is generally prepared to 1-1.2 m wide and 25-30 cm high, with a ditch 40 cm wide between beds. Before preparing the beds, apply 1-1.3 tons of humus soil or pig manure to each simple greenhouse (30 m €?.5 m), sprinkle 2 kg of carbofuran or phoxim (used to kill underground pests), water to loosen the soil and mix it thoroughly.

(3) Disinfection. Because perfume lilies are extremely susceptible to stem rot, phytophthora blight, leaf blight and gray mold, prevention should be the main approach, starting with the soil. Commonly used methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. a. Steam disinfection: bury heat-resistant plastic pipes with small holes 30 cm below the bed surface, cover the bed surface with film, then introduce steam and continue fumigating for 1 hour. b. Chemical disinfection: generally use 40% formalin prepared as a 1:50 solution and splash it on the bed surface at 25-30 kg/M. After splashing, cover with plastic film for 2 days, then uncover the film and air-dry for 10 days. Planting can be done only after the chemical vapor has completely dissipated.

II. Cultivation management

(1) Treatment of bulbs. Before planting, pick the bulbs out of the bulb boxes, handling them gently to prevent breaking the sprouts. At the same time, check bulb quality and remove unqualified bulbs such as those with broken sprouts or rot, or rot on the scales or basal plate. Soak the bulbs in a 500-800 times solution of fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil or carbendazim for 15-20 minutes.

(2) Planting time. In order to bloom at Spring Festival and Valentine's Day, planting should generally be done in mid-October and early November, and it is best to plant before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.

(3) Planting density and depth. Generally the plant spacing is 10-15 cm and the row spacing is 15-18 cm; the planting depth is about 6-8 cm above the bud point. After planting, a layer of wood chaff and fallen leaves should also be covered on the surface, and a shade net should be properly covered, while watering thoroughly.

(4) Good labeling and record-keeping. After planting, labels should also be made, noting the specification and planting date. Hang two thermohygrometers in each greenhouse, one at the front and one in the middle, and prepare a record book. Observe the thermohygrometers three times a day and keep good records.

(5) Precautions

1. The sprouting point of the planted bulb should point vertically upward from the ground.

2. The soil temperature should be lowered before planting.

3. The perfume lilies we plant in Guangxi are generally air-freighted from Kunming and have already been thawed, so they should be planted as soon as possible, minimizing the time left in the open field, and preferably planted within two days.

4. After the young seedlings grow 2 cm above the ground, crooked seedlings should be straightened in time. This critical period must be strictly grasped. If this opportunity is missed, straightening the seedlings again easily damages the root system, and not straightening them will seriously affect the survival quality of perfume lilies.

(6) Water and fertilizer management. When planting perfume lilies, sprinkle 5 kg of superphosphate in each greenhouse. Then, from planting until emergence, generally no fertilizer is applied, but the soil should be kept moist, to the extent that no water seeps out when the soil is held in the hand, avoiding excessive dryness or waterlogging. In particular, water demand is relatively large during the rooting stage and harvest stage, and it especially must not be too dry. When the seedlings grow to 10-15 cm, begin applying the first fertilizer, then apply once a week, adhering to the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently. At the same time, in each greenhouse and for each specification, select several representative plants and measure their height, leaf length and width, and leaf number every three days, keeping good records, so as to adjust and determine the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer for the next application. Generally, in the early and middle stages, apply more compound fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium, with a ratio of 10:15:8, to promote seedling growth and rooting; in the middle and late stages, focus more on compound fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, with a ratio of 8:10:20, to help increase stem hardness. Spray monopotassium phosphate once every 10 days at a concentration of 0.1%. At the same time, pay attention to watering, avoid excessive dryness or waterlogging, and maintain air humidity at 50%-80%.

Precautions: It is strictly forbidden to pour fertilizer onto the leaves. If fertilizer is accidentally poured onto the leaves, rinse quickly with clear water to avoid burning the leaves and affecting quality.

(7) Temperature management. The temperature must not exceed 30°C at the highest and must not be lower than 5°C at the lowest. The most suitable soil temperature is 12-15°C. If it exceeds 18°C or falls below 10°C, it is unfavorable for roots. After rooting, the temperature can be increased, maintaining 18-25°C during the day and 12-18°C at night. If it is too high during the day, it will reduce plant height, decrease the number of flower buds per stem, and produce a large number of blind flowers. If the night temperature is lower than 12°C, it will cause bud drop or leaf yellowing and reduce ornamental value.

(8) Light management. The development of perfume lily flower buds especially requires sufficient light conditions, but excessively high temperatures will burn the leaves and reduce the ornamental effect.

(9) Netting and staking. In addition to the color, shape and petal texture of the flowers themselves, the height standard of perfume lilies also requires the stems to stand upright and straight. Perfume lilies have strong phototropism, and those cultivated in winter often lean southward and lodge, so nets and stakes must be set up in time. According to bulb specification, for large bulbs, set up stakes and nets for the first time when they grow to 20 cm, and for the second time when they grow to 45-50 cm; for small bulbs, set up stakes and nets for the first time when they grow to 15 cm, and for the second time when they grow to 40-45 cm.

(10) Pest and disease control. Perfume lilies are prone to phytophthora blight, gray mold and stem blight. a. Pay attention to ventilation in the greenhouse and keep it clean; b. At the early stage of disease, immediately remove diseased plants and spray 1% Bordeaux mixture and 65% zineb 600 times solution, or use 800-1000 times solution of bactericidal agents (such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, agricultural streptomycin for bacteria, etc.) to drench the roots or spray; c. Usually focus on prevention and spray bactericidal agents once every 10-15 days. d. Pests are generally aphids, prevented with omethoate and derris preparations, and after occurrence, spray 2-3 times continuously. Pay special attention not to use dichlorvos during the flowering period, otherwise it will damage the petals. Therefore, after aphids appear on the corolla, use deltamethrin or pyrethrum for control.

III. Harvesting

For stems with 5-10 flower heads, harvesting can begin only after 2 buds have colored; for stems with fewer than 5 flower heads, at least one bud must have colored. The best harvest time is in the morning, which can reduce water loss and prevent the buds from wilting easily. After harvesting, insert them into clean water containing preservative as soon as possible to absorb water.

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