What to do when a mimosa wilted? Check for root rot, remove diseased leaves, and avoid strong light

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Mimosa, a magical plant whose leaves shyly fold up as soon as they are touched, is named for this very trait. In everyday life, mimosa is very popular and is grown in pots by many people at home. However, due to improper care and other reasons, the plant can develop various problems, such as yellowing and wilting of mimosa leaves

I. What to do when a mimosa wilts: find the cause

In everyday life, many flower growers encounter wilting mimosas when growing them. What should they do then? First of all, flower growers must not panic, but should calmly look for the cause. Only when the cause is known can it be properly addressed. The following are some causes of mimosa wilting and their solutions; let's continue reading.

II. Causes of mimosa wilting

1. Scorching sun

In the methods for growing mimosa, we introduced that mimosa loves light, and sufficient light lets it grow very well. Because of this, some flower growers move their mimosa outside to sunbathe no matter the season. Under normal circumstances this is very good, but the summer sun is harsh! Once it is exposed to scorching sun for too long, the mimosa will wilt.

Solution: If the mimosa wilting is caused by scorching sun, you should quickly sprinkle some water on the mimosa, sprinkling some on both the leaves and the soil. Generally speaking, it will recover in 2 or 3 days.

2. Improper watering

Mimosa likes a moist environment, so it needs frequent watering. But mimosa's soil must not be too dry, nor too wet; if these requirements are not met, wilting of mimosa will also occur.

Solution: If watered too much, put it under the sun to let the water evaporate quickly, then move it to a ventilated place for normal care; if watered too little, increase the watering frequency and just keep the potting soil moist. After a while, your mimosa will recover.

3. Root rot

Besides scorching sun and watering, root rot is also one of the causes of mimosa wilting. In addition to not watering too much, when flower growers buy a mimosa, they should repot it with fresh soil. During the repotting process, check the roots by the way, and if there is root rot, prune it off so it does not affect the other roots and stems.

4. Variety problems

If you buy a mimosa from outside to grow, then you should buy a healthy variety, and it is best to choose those that are growing more vigorously. Once you pick casually and choose a mimosa whose branches and leaves are relatively dense, wilting is very likely to occur during cultivation.

III. Solutions for mimosa wilting

The above are solutions after a mimosa wilts, but if you want to prevent this from happening, you need to solve it at the root. Specifically, do the following:

2. Strengthen cultivation management: choose fertile, well-drained soil.

3. Apply more organic fertilizer and potassium fertilizer;

4. The planting density of mimosa should be appropriate so as to allow ventilation and light penetration, reduce leaf surface humidity, and decrease the occurrence of disease.

How to grow Chinese peony: cultivation methods and precautions for Jiangli/Licao

Chinese peony knowledge encyclopedia:
Chinese peony (scientific name: Paeonia lactiflora Pall.), also known as Jiangli and Licao, belongs to Saxifragales, Ranunculaceae, Paeonia, and is a perennial herbaceous flower. The tuberous roots grow from below the root crown, are fleshy and thick, spindle-shaped or long cylindrical, 0.6-3.5 cm thick. The petals of Chinese peony are obovate, and the floral disk is shallowly cup-shaped. The flowering period is May to June, and flowers generally open singly at the top of the stem or near the top in leaf axils. The original species has white flowers and 5-13 petals. Horticultural varieties have rich flower colors, including white, pink, red, purple, yellow, green, black, and bicolor, with flower diameters of 10-30 cm, and petals can reach up to a hundred. The fruit is spindle-shaped, and the seeds are round, oblong, or pointed-round. Chinese peony is praised by people as the "Flower Fairy" and "Flower Minister," and is listed as one of the "Six Famous Flowers." It is also called the "Flower God of May," and because it has been regarded as the flower of love since ancient times, it is now honored as the representative flower of Qixi Festival. In addition, Chinese peony is an important flower in Dream of the Red Chamber, and "Shi Xiangyun drunkenly sleeps on the peony cushion" is one of the most beautiful scenes in Dream of the Red Chamber. In the common understanding of most people, all species included in the Paeonia section under the genus Paeonia are often collectively called Chinese peony.[1] Chinese peony is a traditional famous flower of China. It is cold-resistant, prefers a cool climate, and is not tolerant of waterlogging. It is equally famous as the king of flowers, the tree peony. Chinese peony has strong adaptability, tolerates extensive management, and has high ornamental value. It is an excellent flower plant species for garden application and cut flowers. In addition, Chinese peony contains various medicinal components such as paeoniflorin and paeonin, and has the effects of dilating blood vessels, lowering blood pressure and relieving pain, and clearing heat and relieving spasms, with high medicinal value. At present, cultivation and research centers have gradually developed in Heze, Shandong, Luoyang, Henan, and other places in China, and large-scale commercial production has been formed; while in the United States, Canada, New Zealand, and other countries, Chinese peony is also cultivated and used.

Growth habits of Chinese peony:
Growth and development stages
It likes light and tolerates drought. During the year, as the climate rhythm changes, the Chinese peony plant undergoes staged developmental changes. This is mainly manifested as alternating changes between the growth period and the dormancy period. Among them, the vernalization stage of the dormancy period and the light stage of the growth period are the most critical. The vernalization stage of Chinese peony requires about 40 days at a low temperature of 0°C to be completed. Only then can the mixed buds begin to sprout and grow. Chinese peony is a long-day plant, and flower buds need long-day conditions to develop and bloom. After the mixed buds sprout, if the light duration is insufficient, or under short-day conditions, they usually only grow leaves and do not bloom, or bloom abnormally.
Growth characteristics

1. Flower bud structure and life cycle: The buds of Chinese peony are mixed buds and belong to the underground bud type. After sprouting, they extend above ground, both producing stems and leaves and unfolding buds to bloom. The mixed bud is a complex of multiple primordia, composed of the apical growing point, bud scales, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales, leaf primordia, axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia, bract primordia, sepal primordia, petal primordia, stamen primordia, pistil primordia, and so on. This bud is called the maternal-generation bud, and the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the bud scales and leaf primordia are the original bodies of the daughter-generation buds. The axillary bud primordia within the axils of the leaf primordia and their axillary bud primordia do not produce bud scales and are naked buds; while the axillary bud primordia within the axils of the scales have bud scales and form scaly buds. In spring, the scaly buds sprout, and the daughter-generation naked buds extend above ground as the internodes of the maternal mixed bud elongate, forming flower-bearing branches or branches on the main stem; their daughter-generation scaly buds do not emerge above ground. After the aboveground parts wither in autumn, the daughter-generation scaly bud located at the uppermost part of the Chinese peony root crown becomes the "terminal bud." In fact, Chinese peony has only one terminal bud, which is the terminal bud of the seedling after the seed germinates. The next year, this daughter-generation scaly bud sprouts and emerges from the soil, extending branches, unfolding leaves, and blooming. Therefore, the life cycle of a naked bud is 2 years, while the life cycle of a scaly bud is 3 years.
2. Flower bud differentiation: The axillary buds of the underground scaly buds of Chinese peony appear around August, and their apical growing points gradually produce bud scale primordia from outside to inside. By May of the following year, a growing point covered by 4 bud scales has formed, and bud scale differentiation is completed in late June. Then, the apical growing point begins to produce leaf primordia. The leaf primordia have multiple finger-like protrusions, while the bud scale primordia have only 1-3. Leaf primordium differentiation starts in early August and ends in early September.

Cultivation techniques for Chinese peony:
The traditional propagation methods for Chinese peony are: division, sowing, cuttings, layering, and so on. Among them, the division method is the easiest and is widely used. The sowing method is only used for breeding new varieties, producing rootstocks for grafting tree peonies, and medicinal production.
Propagation methods of Chinese peony:
Division method
Division is the most commonly used propagation method for Chinese peony, and seedling production in Chinese peony-producing areas basically uses this method. It has three advantages: first, it blooms earlier than the sowing method; sown seedlings bloom in 4-5 years, while divided seedlings can bloom the next year; second, division is simple and easy to perform, saves labor in management, and is conducive to wide application; third, it can maintain the excellent traits of the original variety. The disadvantage is that the propagation coefficient is low; a three-year-old mother plant can only be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, making it difficult to adapt to and meet the needs of modern large-scale production and the continuously rapidly growing domestic and international flower market[5].
1. Division time
Theoretically, division of Chinese peony can be carried out from when the overwintering buds are full to before the ground freezes. However, timely division and planting, while the ground temperature is still high, is beneficial for the healing of root wounds, can promote the sprouting of new roots, enhance cold and drought resistance, and lay the foundation for sprouting and growth the following year. Do not divide too early, lest autumn growth occur and affect growth and development the next year; nor should division be too late, when the ground temperature can no longer meet the needs of Chinese peony root development, resulting in poor growth of new plants the following year; if delayed until spring for division and planting, the buds sprout and emerge from the soil, and because spring temperatures gradually rise, air humidity is low, and transpiration is high, the roots are injured after division and cannot normally absorb water and nutrients, causing the divided plants to grow very weakly, or even die. Therefore, there is a Chinese agricultural proverb: "Divide Chinese peony at the spring equinox, and it will never bloom until old age." The suitable period for dividing Chinese peony is generally earlier than for tree peony. The agricultural proverb of Heze, "Chinese peony in July, tree peony in August (referring to lunar calendar months)," means that in Heze, Chinese peony can be divided from the end of August until late September (from End of Heat to Autumn Equinox). In Yangzhou, division is from late September to early November. Divided seedlings can be divided again after three or four years of growth. If not divided for a long time, the root system becomes old and decayed, the plant grows weakly, and flowering is poor.
2. Division method
When dividing, carefully dig up the fleshy roots and minimize root damage as much as possible. After digging up, remove the old soil, cut away old hard and decayed parts, and split along natural gaps by hand or with a sharp knife. Generally, each plant can be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, and each daughter plant carries 3-5 or 2-3 buds; when there are few mother plants and the planting task is large, each daughter plant can also carry 1-2 buds, but recovery growth will be slower. During division, thick roots should be retained. If the soil is moist, Chinese peony roots are brittle and break easily, so they can be air-dried for a day before division. After division, dry them slightly in the shade, dip them in nutrient-containing mud slurry, and then plant. In garden green spaces, Chinese peony has been planted for many years, its growth gradually weakens, and it urgently needs division and replanting, but the flowering period for visitors' viewing cannot be affected by propagation. In-place division can be used: dig a deep hole beside the Chinese peony plant with a shovel to expose part of the roots, then use a sharp spade to cut and divide the plant, minimizing disturbance to the original plant, take out the divided part, and carry out division and planting as above. Generally, cutting off half of the original plant is appropriate. The deep hole dug out can be mixed with an appropriate amount of fertilizer and soil and tamped down. Alternate-row or alternate-plant replanting can also be used. In this way, division and rejuvenation can be carried out without affecting the landscape, but it must be done continuously for 2-3 years. However, because Chinese peony avoids continuous cropping, the alternate-row or alternate-plant replanting method cannot be applied continuously; otherwise, pests and diseases will occur severely, growth will be poor, and even the mortality rate will increase greatly.
When Chinese peony is cultivated for medicinal use, Chinese peony-producing areas often use peony heads for division propagation. In autumn, dig out the mother plant, cut off all the thick roots for medicinal use, and use the bud-bearing peony heads as propagation material. First remove peony heads without buds and with diseased parts, cut the peony heads into blocks, each block carrying 2-3 strong buds, with the peony head 2 cm thick. If too thick, the main root is not strong and branches too much; if too thin, nutrients are insufficient. It is best to plant as soon as it is cut. If it cannot be planted in time, do not cut it; the peony heads can be stored in sand for later use. Planting is suitable from early August to late September[6].
3. Management after division
The planting depth should be about 2 cm with the buds entering the soil. Too deep is not conducive to sprouting and easily causes root rot, yellowing leaves, and poor growth; too shallow is not conducive to flowering and is prone to freezing damage, and even the root crown may be exposed above ground, leading to death from scorching sun in summer. If the divided root clump is relatively large (with 3-5 buds), it may bloom the second year, but the flowers are small, so it is better to remove them to allow the plant to grow well. If the root clump is small (2-3 buds), it will grow poorly or not bloom the second year, and generally needs 2-5 years of cultivation.

Sowing method
Seeds of Chinese peony
The fruit of Chinese peony is a follicle, and each follicle contains 1-7 seeds. When the seeds mature, the follicles split open and scatter the seeds. Fruit ripening periods vary by location; for example, Mudanjiang in Heilongjiang Province in early September, Heze in Shandong in late August, Luoyang in Henan in early to mid-August, and Yangzhou in Jiangsu around late August. Seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection. As sowing time is delayed, seed moisture content decreases and germination rate declines. The seeds have a double dormancy characteristic of the epicotyl and hypocotyl. After sowing, the autumn soil temperature causes the hypocotyl to break dormancy, and the radicle develops and roots. The better the rooting in the current year, the more vigorous the growth the following year; if sowing is too late, the ground temperature cannot break hypocotyl dormancy, rooting cannot occur, and the germination rate the following spring is greatly reduced. After rooting in autumn sowing, after a long period of low temperature in winter, epicotyl dormancy can be broken. When temperatures rise in the following spring and humidity is suitable, the germ bud emerges from the soil.
Because the progeny produced by sowing horticultural varieties of Chinese peony undergo trait segregation and cannot maintain the excellent traits of the original variety, the sowing method cannot be used for propagating variety seedlings.
1. Seed harvesting
Harvest when the follicle fruit turns yellow. If too early, the seeds are not mature; if too late, the seed coat turns black and hard, making emergence difficult. Fruit maturity varies, so harvest in batches. When the fruit skin splits and releases seeds, they can be sown immediately. Never expose seeds to the sun, as this hardens the seed coat and affects emergence. If they cannot be sown in time, they can be stored in sand with moisture retention, but they must be taken out and sown before the seeds root.
2. Sowing time
Chinese peony must be sown in the same year the seeds are collected. For example, in the Heze area, sowing is from late August to late September. If later than late September, roots cannot form that year, and the germination rate the following spring will be greatly reduced; moreover, even if seedlings emerge, because the seedling root system is underdeveloped, it is difficult for them to resist spring drought and they easily die. Therefore, several spring sowing trials in Heze all failed.
3. Sowing method
Seed treatment: Before sowing, remove shriveled seeds and impurities from the seeds to be sown, then use water selection to remove unfilled seeds. Although the seed coat of Chinese peony is thinner than that of tree peony and absorbs water and sprouts relatively easily, if seed treatment is carried out before sowing, germination is more uniform and the germination rate is greatly increased, often reaching more than 80%. The method is to soak the seeds in warm water at 50°C for 24 hours, then take them out and sow immediately.
Bed preparation and sowing: The land used for sowing and raising seedlings should be given sufficient base fertilizer and deeply plowed and leveled. If the soil is relatively moist and suitable for sowing, beds can be made directly and sowing can be done; if soil moisture is poor, irrigate fully first, then make beds and sow. The bed width is about 50 cm, and the distance between beds is 30 cm. Sow seeds in holes at a row spacing of 6 cm and a seed spacing of 3 cm; if seeds are sufficient, broadcast sowing can be used, with a seed spacing of not less than 3 cm; after sowing, cover with moist soil to a thickness of about 2 cm. Use about 50 kg of seed per 666.7 square meters, or about 100 kg for broadcast sowing. After sowing, cover with plastic film and remove it after sprouting and emergence the following spring. Drilling can also be used, with a row spacing of 40 cm and a seed spacing of 3 cm, covering with 5-6 cm of soil; or hole sowing can be used, with a hole spacing of 20-30 cm, placing 4-5 seeds per hole, and after sowing pile soil 10-20 cm high to help prevent cold and preserve soil moisture. Rake level before sprouting the following spring.[7]
Cutting method
Choose a nursery site with higher terrain and good drainage for the cutting bed. After loosening the bed soil, spread a 15 cm thick layer of river sand, and disinfect the river sand with 0.5% potassium permanganate. Vermiculite or perlite can also be used as the cutting substrate. Build a shade shed 1.5 m high over the bed. According to experience in Changchun and other places, cuttings taken in mid-July have the best rooting effect. The cuttings are 10-15 cm long, with two nodes, one upper compound leaf with a few leaflets retained; the lower compound leaf is cut off together with the petiole. After quickly dipping in a 500×10-1000×10 naphthaleneacetic acid or indoleacetic acid solution, insert them for cuttings, with a insertion depth of about 5 cm, and spacing such that leaves do not overlap each other. After insertion, water thoroughly, then cover with a plastic tunnel. According to observation, rooting is best when the substrate temperature is 28-30°C and humidity is 50%. Keep the temperature inside the cutting shed at 20-25°C and humidity at 80%-90%, and roots can form 20-30 days after cutting, along with dormant buds. After rooting, reduce misting and watering, and gradually remove the plastic tunnel and shade shed. Cutting seedlings grow slowly and need to be covered with soil in the bed to overwinter, then moved to open-field planting the following spring[8].
Root cutting method
Use roots broken during autumn division of Chinese peony, cut them into 5-10 cm root segments, insert them into a deeply plowed and leveled furrow 10-15 cm deep, cover with 5-10 cm of fine soil, and water thoroughly.

Pest and disease control of Chinese peony:
Diseases
The main diseases of Chinese peony include Chinese peony gray mold, Chinese peony brown spot[9], Chinese peony red spot, and Chinese peony rust.
Symptoms of Chinese peony rust: In the early stage of the disease, there are yellow and yellow small granules on the back of the leaves, which are the uredinia of the pathogen. Later, round, oval, or irregular gray-brown lesions appear on the leaf surface, with a diameter of 4-12 mm, and the lesions have concentric rings and small dots. On the back of the leaves, cylindrical reddish-brown bristle-like structures grow from the uredinia, 1-1.5 mm long; these are the telia of the pathogen[10].
Insect pests
Scarab beetles
Pest species and damage: There are many kinds of scarab beetles that harm Chinese peony, such as the black velvet chafer, the apple green chafer, and the yellow-haired chafer. Their adults harm Chinese peony leaves and flowers; the larvae, white grubs, have a body nearly cylindrical, bent into a "C" shape, milky white, with a yellow-brown head, 3 pairs of thoracic legs, and no abdominal legs. They feed on Chinese peony roots, and the wounds they create also create conditions for Fusarium infection, leading to root rot.
Scale insects
Scale insects are also called scales. There are several species of scale insects that harm Chinese peony, such as the cottony cushion scale, the Japanese wax scale, the elongated white scale, the mulberry white scale, the Chinese peony round scale, and the arrowhead scale. Scale insects suck the body fluids of Chinese peony, weakening plant growth and causing branches and leaves to turn yellow. When individual branches are found to be harmed by scale insects, they can be brushed off with a soft brush, or the infested branches can be cut off and burned. Seize the peak hatching period of eggs to spray chemicals; newly hatched insects have not yet developed a waxy surface and are easily killed. The best approach is to strengthen quarantine and strictly prevent the introduction of infested seedlings.
Aphids
After Chinese peony sprouts in spring, aphids fly in to cause damage, sucking leaf sap, causing damaged leaves to curl and turn yellow. After seedlings grow larger, aphids often gather on tender shoots, pedicels, and the backs of leaves, causing stems and leaves to curl and shrink, and even the whole plant to wither and die. Spraying 40% dimethoate emulsion at 1000-1500 times dilution, or 80% dichlorvos at 1500-2000 times dilution, or 50% menazon emulsion at 1000-1500 times dilution can temporarily suppress aphid damage.

Complete flower-growing information collection (with this article in hand, no worries about growing flowers)

I. Benefits of growing flowers
With their gorgeous elegance, flowers decorate nature especially beautifully and give people aesthetic enjoyment. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament, and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and improve cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of the motherland, protect and improve the environment, purify the air, and enable people to work and study in a beautiful environment and live a better life. Growing flowers is not only for viewing, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine. Honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, rhododendron, Chinese rose, lotus, and so on are all common Chinese medicinal materials. Fragrant flowers are widely used in food, light industry, and other aspects. For example, osmanthus can be used as a food spice and for brewing wine; jasmine, white orchid, bitter orange, and chloranthus can be used to scent tea; chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes; white orchid, jasmine, rose, wintersweet, narcissus, and so on can be used to extract essential oils.
II. "Three suitable" rules for growing flowers indoors
1. It is suitable to grow flowers with strong ability to absorb toxic substances. Certain flowers can absorb certain concentrations of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde, hydrogen chloride, and so on. According to research, wintersweet can absorb mercury vapor; pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air; snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus, dianthus, and so on can convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide through oxidation through their leaves into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds; narcissus, four-o'clock, chrysanthemum, saxifrage, and so on can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells; spider plant, aloe, and snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde, eliminating and preventing indoor air pollution.
2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericides. The bactericides secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle, and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens, and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and hygienic.
3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions. Most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. At night they carry out respiration, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are just the opposite: during the day they release carbon dioxide, and at night they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in the same room can not only allow the two to benefit each other, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide content and keep indoor air fresh.
III. "Three avoid" rules for growing flowers indoors
1. Avoid growing too many flowers that give off strong fragrance and irritating odors. For example, orchids, roses, Chinese roses, lilies, and night-blooming jasmine can all give off rich aromas. One pot in a room fills it with fragrance, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the fragrance is too strong, it can excite people's nerves, especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, causing insomnia. The gases released by poinsettia and lucky bamboo are not good for people; after prolonged contact with the particles released by tulips and hydrangea, the skin may become allergic and itchy.
2. Avoid placing too many. At night, most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people. At night, most indoor spaces are closed, and air circulation with the outside is insufficient. If too many flowers are placed indoors, the indoor oxygen concentration at night will be reduced, affecting sleep quality, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.
3. Avoid placing toxic flowers indoors. For example, oleander is toxic in its stems, leaves, and even flowers during spring, summer, and autumn. The milky white sap it secretes contains an oleandrin, and accidental ingestion can cause poisoning; the bulb of narcissus contains lycorine toxin, and if children accidentally eat it, it can cause symptoms such as vomiting. The sap of the leaves and flowers causes skin redness and swelling, and if the sap gets into the eyes, it can harm the eyes; too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in severe cases hair loss.
Therefore, when growing and enjoying flowers, we should understand the relevant scientific knowledge to bring health and happiness to ourselves and our families.
IV. "Six precepts" for growing flowers at home
Growing flowers at home is now increasingly common, but many flower-growing enthusiasts, because they do not grasp the key points, grow flowers that are listless and lifeless. Where is the problem?
First precept: carelessness. Flowers, like people, are living things and need careful care. Many flower growers lack the due careful and diligent attitude toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy and do not like to study flower-growing knowledge, willingly remaining laymen for a long time and managing improperly. Second, they are physically lazy and unwilling to spend too much time and energy on flowers. After flowers enter the home, they are left aside and ignored, enduring hunger and thirst for a long time and suffering from pests and diseases. In this way, even the best flowers will gradually wither. Therefore, lazy people cannot grow flowers well.
Second precept: loving them too much. Contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love flowers too much and their hands itch if they do not fiddle with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize without any regularity, watering whenever they think of it, causing flowers to die from overwatering or overfertilizing; some casually move flower pots around, moving them to several places a day, making flowers constantly adapt to the environment and disrupting normal growth patterns. Over time, it would be strange if the flowers were not tormented to death. Having a few satisfactory pots of flowers at home and liking them is understandable, but flowers, like people, have their own growth patterns. If you frequently disturb them when they need rest, they will naturally feel tired and not grow well.
Third precept: chasing fame and profit. Some flower enthusiasts believe that when growing flowers, one should grow famous flowers, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and bring large market profits. Under the control of this mentality, they spend large sums of money seeking famous flowers and trees everywhere. As a result, often due to the lack of good cultivation conditions and management techniques, the flowers die soon after purchase, which both mistreats precious flowers and wastes money. This is a conceptual misunderstanding. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade types and gradually explore the rules and techniques of growing flowers. After reaching a certain technical level, then gradually purchase more precious types; only then is success more likely.
Fourth precept: failing to distinguish good from bad. Some flower growers are greedy for size and completeness, and regardless of variety, bring home whatever they see. This not only makes management more difficult, but also brings some flowers unsuitable for growing at home into the home, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people touch them. The smell of some flowers affects the human nervous system and can easily cause breathing difficulty or even allergic reactions. Plants with sharp thorns also pose a certain threat to human safety, and so on. In short, growing flowers at home should not be greedy for size and completeness or fail to distinguish good from bad. You should choose some types with smaller plant shape, beautiful appearance, and no harm to the human body.
Fifth precept: being fickle. Some flower growers are restless and have no theme in growing flowers, and the flowers at home are changed as quickly as a revolving lantern. This is a great taboo in growing flowers. First, changing types too quickly and growing them for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flower plants with beautiful shape and high ornamental value. Second, tasting each flower only superficially is not conducive to improving flower-growing skills, and in the end one is still a flower novice. Therefore, only by choosing one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on studying and cultivating them can a flower grower gain something in heart.
Sixth precept: not having new concepts. Today, new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, but most flower growers still rigidly adhere to traditional maintenance methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of flower containers, water and fertilizer management, seedling cultivation, and so on, such as soilless cultivation, odorless flower fertilizers, and various flower containers. As a result, home flower growing is unhygienic, unattractive, not novel, and has relatively large side effects.
V. Knowledge about buying flowers
Do not buy the following kinds of flowers:
1. Newly potted flowers. When buying flowers, if you see that the soil in the pot is new soil and the stem moves when pulled upward, then this pot of flowers has definitely been potted not long ago and has not yet grown new roots. Such flowers are very easy to die after being bought. The reason is that some sellers, in pursuit of economic benefits, directly mix undecomposed organic fertilizer into the soil. Once these fertilizers ferment, the flower roots will be burned. Sometimes, to save labor or rush for time, they plant the flower roots without any sorting, and even carelessly pot and market flower plants whose roots are too severely damaged and which basically cannot survive. If you accidentally buy such flowers, most are difficult to keep alive.
2. Flowers with two or more plants planted together. Some sellers seize on buyers' psychology of liking lush flowers and leaves, and plant two or more unsatisfactory flower seedlings together in a pot, passing off inferior goods as good and selling them to inexperienced buyers for profit. After such flowers are bought, the branches and leaves that grow will become thinner, weaker, and yellower day by day, and the flowers will bloom smaller and smaller. The reason is insufficient nutrition, and too many roots in the pot make it easy for the soil to harden, and it may also die from root rot due to poor drainage and poor aeration. Of course, specially made combination pots are not included in this category. Flowers without soil balls in summer or winter: in hot summer, when temperatures are high, flower leaves evaporate quickly, and the root system of newly potted flower plants is more or less damaged, making it difficult for them to absorb water from the potting soil in a short time. Only by bringing the original soil ball can they safely pass through this transition period; otherwise, they will first wilt and then slowly wither and die. In winter, when the weather is cold, flowers and trees grow slowly, and some even enter dormancy. At this time, if you buy flower plants without soil balls from the market and bring them home, after potting and watering, they may suffer freezing damage (especially the root system), ranging from hindered plant growth to death. Even if not frozen, because the soil temperature is relatively low, it is very difficult for the flowers and trees to grow new roots, and the old roots cannot sprout for a long time and are very prone to rotting and necrosis. Areas along the Yangtze River and other areas without heating in winter should pay special attention.
3. Flowers with roots but no stems and leaves. Some individual vendors dig up wild vines and miscellaneous tree roots from the mountains in autumn and winter and pass them off as flowers and trees for sale. Because there are no stems or leaves, they are difficult to identify. To retain moisture, they wrap them with moss and give them strange flower names, specifically deceiving inexperienced buyers. Some people are greedy for bargains, but after buying them, nine out of ten only grow leaves and do not bloom.
4. Flowers shown in pictures as being able to bloom in multiple colors. A small number of illegal vendors, in order to make profits, insert fake flowers of various colors into some plants that cannot bloom, then take photos and make pictures, give them exotic flower names, and deceive friends who are beginners at growing flowers. These flower vendors at street stalls move from place to place, and cheated buyers have a hard time finding them.
5. Flowers whose branches and leaves are tied into various shapes with fine wire. In order to sell for a good price, flower and tree sellers intentionally tie all the branches and leaves of evergreen trees such as pines and cypresses into various animal shapes with fine wire, then take them to the market and sell them at high prices as bonsai. Such potted flowers look good at the time, but over time, as the plant grows, the shape will change. Moreover, tying all the branches and leaves of the plant at the same time not only affects photosynthesis, but also easily causes pests and diseases, which is very unfavorable to plant growth.
6. Cactus flowers with small freeze spots on the stem or ball. In early spring, individual vendors are often seen selling cactus-type flowers at low prices. Some buyers do not examine them carefully and buy eight or ten at once, and as a result, no small number have problems. The reason is that cacti that have overwintered are very susceptible to slight frost injury, and freeze spots smaller than a grain of rice appear on the stems and balls. On the surface there seems to be no problem, but in essence the internal tissues of the plant have already suffered major damage. If measures are not taken after such flowers are bought, the spots will grow larger and larger, the plant will gradually become semi-transparent, and finally the whole plant will necrose.
VI. Spring care for home potted flowers
The whole year's work depends on a good start in spring. The management and care of home potted flowers in spring is very important, and the following three aspects should be done well.
1. Propagate good seedlings. Chinese rose, geranium, pomegranate, winter jasmine, and so on can be propagated in spring by taking healthy branches for cuttings. Rhododendron and jasmine prefer acidic soil, so 5-10 cm thick new branches can be cut, the lower leaves removed, and 3-4 top leaves retained for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite, or yellow sand can be used as the medium. Mist the cuttings appropriately to maintain a certain humidity, and generally roots will form after about 1 month. Orchids, agave, and spider plant can be propagated in early spring by division or runners, respectively.
Spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, garden balsam, scarlet sage, morning glory, and marigold, can be broadcast sown or sown in holes. Sowing method: first fill the pot with soil, press it slightly firm, then sow the seeds, and cover with fine soil. For watering after sowing, generally place the flower pot into a water basin and let water slowly seep in from the bottom of the pot. Most germinate 1-3 weeks after sowing, and after germination move the pot to a sunny place. After the seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be divided and transplanted. When transplanting, be careful not to damage the roots or break the stems.
2. Repotting and changing soil. This is a method of supplementing fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally, small pots are repotted once a year, and large pots once every 3-4 years. Tall plants need to be moved to larger pots. If some root systems are too dense or have dead or rotten roots, they need appropriate pruning. After repotting, generally water thoroughly the first time, then place in a cool place, and afterward water when the potting soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, resume normal watering and move to a sunny place.
3. Pruning. It should be done according to different plants. Rhododendron and winter jasmine should not be pruned excessively. For pomegranate, Chinese rose, and so on, dead branches, injured branches, or overly dense branches can all be cut off in early spring to promote lush flowers and leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotting to encourage more new branches to sprout. Vine and climbing plants such as ivy, banksia rose, wisteria, and multiflora rose can be pruned and trained so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.
Note that potted flowers should not be moved outdoors too early in early spring, so as to avoid freezing damage from cold air invasion. Watering can be increased as temperatures rise, and keep dryness and moisture well balanced.
VII. Summer care for home potted flowers
1. Watering. In summer, flowers have luxuriant branches and leaves and consume a lot of water, so in summer, water the flowers sufficiently in the morning and evening every day.
2. Build supports for shade. All potted flowers, once summer arrives, need a frame with reed curtains placed on it for shade so that they can safely pass through the intense summer heat.
3. Pay attention to ventilation. For indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, pay attention to ventilation, open the windows, and let fresh air flow into the room to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.
4. Preserve moisture and lower temperature. In summer, some grass can be placed over the potting soil so that sunlight does not directly hit the potting soil, thereby lowering the potting soil temperature and also preventing the potting soil moisture from evaporating too quickly; a sprayer can also be used to moisten the flower leaves and at the same time wet the surroundings to lower the temperature and increase humidity. This is very beneficial for some flowers that like cool conditions.
VIII. Autumn care for home potted flowers
1. Strengthen water and fertilizer management. After the Start of Autumn, the weather gradually turns cooler. For some foliage plants, such as asparagus fern, spider plant, and sago palm, generally apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance; for chrysanthemum, camellia, rhododendron, and so on that bloom once a year, timely apply additional liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer to ensure sufficient nutrients and make them bloom more and larger; for Chinese rose, Aglaia, jasmine, and so on that bloom multiple times a year, supply sufficient fertilizer and water so that they continue to bloom; for some ornamental fruit plants, such as kumquat, fingered citron, and fruiting pomegranate, apply 1-2 times a dilute liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus fertilizer. As temperatures gradually decrease, except for autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, winter, or early spring and continue to be watered normally, other flowers should have watering frequency reduced. Do not water unless the potting soil is dry, so as to avoid excessive water and fertilizer causing excessive growth of branches and leaves, affecting flower bud differentiation and causing freezing damage.
2. Timely autumn sowing and autumn cuttings. In autumn, timely harvest mature flower and tree seeds, and timely sow tulips, gloxinia, snapdragon, and so on, especially seeds that easily lose germination ability, which should be sown in time in autumn. Combined with pruning, take cuttings of flower and trees. For example, taking cuttings of Chinese rose, rose, and multiflora rose has a relatively high survival rate.
IX. Winter care for home potted flowers
Different kinds of flowers each have different growth habits, and different management measures should be taken to ensure they overwinter safely.
1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: Most deciduous woody flowers originate from temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, and winter jasmine. They are generally dormant in winter, so the room temperature can be controlled at about 5°C. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, cold-hardy potted Chinese rose, ornamental peach, pomegranate, honeysuckle, and so on can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard, wrapped and covered with plastic film, and they can overwinter safely.
2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: such as oleander, kumquat, and osmanthus, which are in semi-dormancy. The temperature is generally controlled above 0°C, and they can safely pass through the severe winter. For Aglaia, jasmine, hibiscus, and gardenia, they should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight. The indoor temperature should be kept at about 15°C. If the temperature is too low, the flowers will die.
3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: such as Chinese primrose, coleus, and calceolaria. Keeping the room temperature between 5°C and 15°C allows normal growth. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, garden balsam, geranium, and begonia, keeping sufficient sunlight and a room temperature of 10°C-20°C allows good growth. For herbaceous flowers that are dormant in winter, such as clivia and oncidium, maintaining a room temperature of about 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is enough, with no more than 8-10 hours of light per day. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management, and they can bloom after two months.
X. Several small tips for growing flowers
1. How to tell whether potted flowers lack water
(1) Tapping method: Gently tap the upper and middle parts of the flower pot wall with the knuckle of your finger. If a relatively crisp sound is produced, it indicates the potting soil is already dry and needs immediate watering; if a dull, muddy sound is produced, it indicates the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily postponed.
(2) Visual method: Observe with your eyes whether the color of the surface of the potting soil has changed. If the color becomes lighter or appears light grayish-white, it indicates the potting soil is already dry and needs watering; if the color becomes darker or appears dark brown, it indicates the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily postponed.
(3) Finger test method: Gently insert your finger about 2 cm deep into the potting soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry, or rough and hard, it means the potting soil is already dry and needs watering immediately; if it feels slightly moist, fine and loose, it means the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.
(4) Pinch and twist method: Pinch some potting soil with your fingers. If the soil turns to powder, it means the potting soil is dry and should be watered immediately; if the soil forms flakes or clumps, it means the potting soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped. The above methods are all based on experience, and they can only tell people the general condition of whether the potting soil is dry or wet. If you need to know the exact degree of dryness or moisture of the potting soil, you can buy a soil moisture meter, insert it into the soil, and you will see words such as "dry" or "moist" on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.
2. What should be noted about the water used for watering flowers
The best water for watering flowers is neutral or slightly acidic river water, pond water, or rainwater. Rainwater is best for watering flowers because it contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water. As the flower saying goes, "River water is rich and pond water is strong; with lush flowers and leaves, the blooms are fragrant." Greenish pond water in particular is rich in nutrients and is an ideal water for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is mostly used for watering flowers. However, tap water contains a relatively high amount of bleaching powder and chemicals, so it should be stored for one or two days before use. In addition, if you put a few slices of vitamin C into tap water, it can remove the chlorine in the water. Generally, add one tablet per basin of water, let it sit for half a day, and then it can be used to water flowers.
As the flower saying goes, "When southern flowers are moved north, add alum when watering"; "To grow southern flowers at home in the north, fish tank water is better"; "Fish water is rich and rice water is strong; they are most suitable for watering potted flowers." Whether in cold winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, you can add some hot water appropriately to the water, trying to make the water temperature close to the soil temperature, and create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.
3. Homemade fertilizer
In daily life, there are many waste materials that can be used to make fertilizer.
(1) Soaking liquid fertilizer: Use a small vat (or small jar) and put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells, and moldy foods (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder, etc.), add water, sprinkle a little trichlorfon, and cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the clear liquid on top, dilute it with water, and then use it. You can also mix the above waste materials with some old potting soil, add some water, put them into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly, and leave it for a period of time; after fermentation, use it.
(2) Waste composting: Choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, and put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste, and crushed bones into the pit. Sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of about 10 cm of garden soil, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to make the compost in autumn and winter. After the temperature rises in spring and it is decomposed with no foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer; it can also be sieved while wet with a 4 mm sieve and rubbed into granules, with the fine part used as topdressing and the coarse part used as base fertilizer. When composting, you can add some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar to reduce the odor.
4. Clever fertilization for home flower growing
(1) Fertilize at the right time. So-called timely fertilization means applying fertilizer when the flowers need it. When flower leaves are found to become lighter in color or yellow, and the plant grows thin and weak, this is the most suitable period for fertilization. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, topdressing should be applied to meet the seedlings' demand for fertilizer during rapid growth. Different growth stages of flowers also have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer applied also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth, and applying phosphorus fertilizer at the bud stage can promote larger, more colorful flowers and a longer flowering period.
(2) Fertilize in appropriate amounts. For potted flowers, fertilization should follow the principle of "eat less but more often," that is, fertilize frequently, with a small amount each time. Generally, apply diluted fertilizer water once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the "Start of Autumn." As the flowers and trees gradually grow, the concentration of fertilizer should gradually increase. For example, the application concentration of urea should gradually increase from 0.2% in the earlier period to 1.0%; phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should increase from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.
(3) Master fertilization according to the season. In spring and summer, flowers grow quickly and vigorously, so a moderate amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After autumn begins, the temperature gradually drops, flower growth weakens, and less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilization should be stopped to prevent a second growth peak, otherwise it is easy for flower tissue cells to become tender and make overwintering difficult. For flowers overwintering, fertilization should be stopped in winter when they are dormant.
(4) Fertilization should be controlled by temperature. Potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon in high temperatures or on rainy days, as fertilizing at this time can easily damage the roots. It is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter, when temperatures are low, flowers grow slowly, so generally no fertilizer is applied; in summer, when temperatures are high, flowers grow vigorously and more fertilizer should be applied. When the temperature is high, the concentration of topdressing should be low and the amount should be small; when using diluted fertilizer water for topdressing, it should be applied more times.
(5) Mixed application of pesticides and fertilizers. If pests or diseases occur during fertilization, an appropriate amount of pesticide can be added to the fertilizer liquid, which can achieve the dual effect of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.
11. Points for attention
1. Why do home-grown flowers die
(1) Too much fertilizer. Some people love flowers so much that, considering potted flowers consume a lot of nutrients during the flowering period, they apply large amounts of chemical fertilizer, causing excessive concentration. In mild cases, this affects the root hairs' absorption of water; in severe cases, it causes the plant to die.
(2) Too much immature organic fertilizer applied. Because organic fertilizer undergoes extensive microbial activity when decomposing in the soil, it causes soil oxygen deficiency, and the roots suffocate and die. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces substances such as alcohol and lactic acid that are toxic to the root system. At the same time, fermentation releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing "root burn."
(3) No place for growing flowers. People often put potted flowers on enclosed balconies facing east or west. As a result, the radiant heat of the sun makes the temperature inside the balcony rise sharply, forming a hot and dry environment. Hot, dry, and unventilated conditions also make red spider mite damage more likely, accelerating the death of the flowers.
(4) Overwintering flowers suddenly taken outdoors. Flowers that overwinter indoors grow leaves that are semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If suddenly taken outdoors in early spring, shade leaves cannot adapt, and tender leaves and buds are easily scorched by sunlight. In addition, the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors can easily cause fatal damage to the flowers.
(5) Lack of sunlight. Some people place flowers on indoor tables for easy viewing, far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited. The organic nutrients in the flowers can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plants to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.
2. Harmful flowers and trees
(1) Flowers not suitable for long-term placement indoors: Coniferous and cypress plants, such as pines and cypresses, if placed indoors in large numbers, release a relatively strong pine resin odor that affects people's appetite and makes pregnant women feel nauseated; geranium can cause allergic reactions in some people; tulip flowers contain toxic alkaloids, and after being in contact for too long they can make people dizzy and confused, and can also cause hair loss; night-blooming jasmine stops photosynthesis at night and releases a large amount of waste gas, which can make patients with high blood pressure and heart disease feel depressed; if jade clove is kept indoors for a long time, the peculiar smell it gives off can cause asthma and chest tightness in some people; the odor released by elderberry can also make people feel nauseated and dizzy. Therefore, the above flowers should not be placed indoors for too long.
(2) Poisonous flowers: Yellow azalea, whose plant and flowers both contain toxins, can cause poisoning if eaten by mistake. Poinsettia, the whole plant is poisonous, and the white sap can irritate the skin and cause redness and swelling; after mistakenly eating the stem or leaves, there is a risk of poisoning and death. Oleander: branches, leaves, and bark all contain toxins, and mistakenly eating even a few grams of dry matter can cause poisoning. The pencil cactus is a succulent plant, and the white sap flowing out after its stem is broken can cause skin redness and swelling, and if it gets into the eyes, it can cause blindness. Lantana: flowers and leaves are poisonous, and eating them by mistake can cause diarrhea and fever. Narcissus: the bulb contains lycorine, and eating it by mistake can cause enteritis and vomiting; the branches and leaves of the flowers and leaves can cause skin redness and swelling. Lycoris radiata: the bulb contains toxic substances such as lycorine. After human skin comes into contact with lycorine, it can cause redness, swelling, and itching; inhaling lycorine into the respiratory tract can cause nosebleeds; eating it by mistake can cause vomiting, diarrhea, cold hands and feet, and shock, and in severe cases can cause death due to central nervous system paralysis. Mimosa: contains mimosine in its body, and excessive contact can cause hair loss and sparse eyebrows. Crown of thorns and Euphorbia neriifolia: the white milky sap in the stem is poisonous, and neither should get into the eyes. Dieffenbachia: flowers and leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine, and eating them by mistake can cause swelling and pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, and stomach and intestines, and can even damage the vocal cords and make a person mute. Cactus plants: the spines contain toxic sap, and after being pricked, human skin is prone to allergic symptoms such as redness, swelling, pain, and itching. Coral bean: the whole plant is poisonous, and children should be taught not to eat its red fruits.
3. How to deal with rot in cactus plants
When the stems and leaves of potted cactus plants turn from green to gray, the edges turn yellow, and the base becomes soft, resulting in root and stem rot, the general cause is excessive watering, or after the plum rain season the cactus plants are placed in a dark, damp, poorly ventilated place. This causes the potting soil to become saturated with water and severely oxygen-deficient, preventing the normal activity of aerobic microorganisms in the soil, such as ammonifying bacteria, nitrifying bacteria, and sulfur bacteria that decompose organic matter, so they cannot effectively decompose the organic matter in the soil. As a result, cactus plants develop symptoms such as yellowing and wilting because they cannot obtain various mineral nutrients from the soil. People without cultivation experience often mistakenly think it is caused by lack of water in the plants, so they keep watering, thus causing root rot, stem rot, and even death. When the soil is too wet and too acidic and the above conditions occur, effective measures must be taken to save them. Especially after long rain when the weather suddenly clears, cactus plants should not immediately be placed under the scorching sun; they should be placed in a cool, ventilated place for 1-2 days before being exposed to sunlight again, allowing them to recover slowly. If exposed to the sun rashly, because the root system's water absorption capacity is poor, even though the potting soil is relatively wet, the stems and leaves will still wilt.
If root rot or stem rot occurs, the pot should be repotted and the soil changed, the rotten roots cut off, and the cut parts disinfected with powdered slaked lime (such as lime from old walls). After drying, repot them. If the roots are good and only a small amount of the stem is rotten, surgery can be used: cut off all the rotten parts with a sterilized sharp knife, then apply slaked lime to make the cut dry quickly so the stem does not continue to rot.
While carrying out technical treatment, part of the potting soil can be dug out and placed on a ventilated windowsill or balcony, allowing it to ventilate as much as possible. Because the potting soil is ventilated and dry, the normal growth of cactus plants can be restored as quickly as possible.
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