What to do when lily of the valley leaves turn yellow? Grow it indoors in partial shade and prevent pests and diseases in time

Lily of the valley is a white flower that gives people a feeling of pure, flawless beauty and has extremely high ornamental value. Precisely because it looks so spotless, any yellowing will ruin its overall beauty. As for what to do when lily of the valley leaves turn yellow, it is actually related to many aspects, and as long as you find the root of the problem, solving it is relatively simple.

1. What to do when lily of the valley leaves turn yellow / pay attention to light

Regarding yellowing leaves on lily of the valley, this phenomenon can occur due to many aspects. For example, improper watering, too much or too little light, and other aspects can all cause this phenomenon. So how should we avoid this phenomenon? There is a detailed introduction to this in the following text, let us read on together.

2. Ways to prevent lily of the valley leaves from turning yellow

1. Caused by improper watering

When we water lily of the valley, there are many aspects that need attention. If too much is watered, it may cause waterlogging in the potting soil, leading to root rot in lily of the valley. Of course, watering too little is also not acceptable, because then lily of the valley cannot absorb nutrients, and its leaves will lose their luster and turn yellow.

Prevention method: To avoid this situation, you need to find the correct watering method. Lily of the valley is a plant that relatively likes moisture. Generally, when watering, just moisten the potting soil, so it can also absorb enough nutrients. Remember, moist is enough; do not let water accumulate.

2. Caused by improper fertilizing

When growing lily of the valley, many people keep applying fertilizer to make it grow better. This method is not correct. Although lily of the valley needs fertilizer very much, you still need to grasp the right degree. If there is too much, it will directly affect the plant's roots, thus causing the leaves to turn yellow.

Prevention method: During the vigorous growth period of lily of the valley, we can appropriately choose to apply more fertilizer. About 15 days before its flowering period, fertilizer can be applied once. During the flowering period, no fertilizer is needed. After its flowers fade, applying fertilizer 1-2 times is enough.

3. Caused by improper light

Among the situations that cause lily of the valley leaves to turn yellow, light is one of the relatively main reasons. Lily of the valley is different from many plants. During its cultivation, it does not need too much sunlight, and of course it cannot have no sunlight either. Too much or too little sunlight are both reasons that cause lily of the valley leaves to turn yellow.

Prevention method: During the cultivation of lily of the valley, it is best to place it indoors in partial shade for growing, and the environment should be ventilated. In this way, it can not only absorb the nutrients in sunlight but also avoid yellowing due to too much sunlight. This is a point that needs relatively more attention.

4. Caused by pests and diseases

During the cultivation of lily of the valley, if the above improper operations occur, it is very easy to cause pests and diseases. Pests and diseases are also one of the main reasons for yellowing leaves on lily of the valley. In severe cases, they will not only make the leaves yellow, but also cause the entire plant to die.

Prevention method: If lily of the valley has pests and diseases, they need to be prevented and controlled in time. The specific methods for this are recorded in detail in the article on pest and disease control for lily of the valley. You can go in and take a look. The editor will not introduce too much here.

As long as everyone pays attention to the issues mentioned above by the editor and follows the correct methods for cultivation, your lily of the valley will surely grow vigorously and will not develop yellowing. That is all the editor has to introduce about yellowing leaves on lily of the valley, and I hope it can help everyone.

Common methods for pest and disease control in orchids

Today, the editor of Flowers and Bonsai Wind wants to share with you an article about common methods for pest and disease control in orchids. Let us take a look together.

Plants in the orchid family (scientific name: Orchidaceae) are commonly known as orchids, also called hujihua. They are a worldwide-distributed and diverse family among flowering plants, and their flowers are often colorful and often fragrant. They are usually commonly called the orchid family.

Orchids are herbaceous plants. Under artificial cultivation, their disease incidence is much higher than when they grow naturally in forests. Under artificial cultivation, due to differences in temperature, humidity, light, and air, plus unclean ambient air, orchids are most prone to leaf diseases such as anthracnose, black spot, sheath blight, and rust spot.

Add meaning item ? Orchid This is a polysemous word. Please choose to browse among the following meaning items (6 meaning items in total):

One of China's top ten famous flowers; Chinese painting; a character appearing in the second part of "Mermaid Melody"; a 2006 film directed by American director Bryce Dallas Howard; a 2010 book compiled by the Royal Horticultural Society; a poem by Zuo Heshui

Orchid - one of China's top ten famous flowers Free editing Modify meaning item name

Category: Plants

Orchid (scientific name: Cymbidium ssp.): epiphytic or terrestrial herb, with several to many leaves, usually born at the base of the pseudobulb or on lower nodes, two-ranked, band-shaped or rarely oblanceolate to narrowly elliptic, generally with a broad sheath at the base that surrounds the pseudobulb, with joints. Raceme with several to many flowers, colors include white, pure white, white-green, yellow-green, pale yellow, pale yellow-brown, yellow, red, cyan, purple.

Orchids among China's traditional famous flowers refer only to several species of terrestrial orchids distributed among Chinese Cymbidium plants, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, and Cymbidium kanran, namely what is usually referred to as "Chinese orchids." This type of orchid is greatly different from tropical orchids with large and brightly colored flowers. It has no eye-catching gaudy appearance and no huge flowers or leaves, yet it has a simple, quiet, elegant, and noble temperament, which fits well with Eastern aesthetic standards. It has more than 1,000 years of cultivation history in China.

Chinese people have traditionally regarded orchids as a symbol of nobility and elegance, and ranked them together with "plum, bamboo, and chrysanthemum," collectively called the "Four Gentlemen." "Orchid composition" is usually used to describe the beauty of poetry and prose, and "orchid friendship" to describe true friendship. Orchids are also used to express pure love: "Her spirit is like an orchid, never changing; her heart is like an orchid, never wavering," and "Having found a secluded orchid to repay a confidant, one branch is casually gifted to dream of Xiaoxiang." In May 1985, the orchid was rated fourth among China's top ten famous flowers.

Basic information

Chinese name

Orchid

Alternative names

Chinese orchid, spring orchid, orchid grass, orchid flower, secluded orchid, mountain orchid, national fragrance, empty-valley fairy, ancestor of fragrance

Phylum

Angiosperms

English name

Orchid

Species

29 species

Kingdom

Plantae

Tribe

Epidendreae

Order

Microspermae

Family

Orchidaceae

Latin scientific name

Cymbidium ssp.

Class

Monocotyledoneae

Subfamily

Orchidoideae

Naming authority and year

Sw.,1799

Genus

Cymbidium

Subclass

Liliidae

Contents

1 Basic introduction

2 Morphological characteristics

3 Distribution area

4 Value introduction

5 Commercial value

6 Hometown of orchids

7 Cultivation-related

8 History of orchid art

9 Other related

Edit this section Basic introduction

Plants in the orchid family (scientific name: Orchidaceae) are commonly known as orchids, also called hujihua. They are the largest and most diverse family among flowering plants, with more than about 800 genera and 25,000 species (some sources list more than 30,000 species), plus more than 100,000 hybrid species and varieties cultivated by horticulturists. The Royal Botanic Gardens' "World Checklist of Orchids" lists about 24,000 accepted species names, and about 800 new species are added each year. The orchid family has more species than all vertebrates including Osteichthyes, accounting for about 1/4 of all species in Monocotyledoneae. Early classification systems (the Cronquist system) classified Orchidaceae and Burmanniaceae within Microspermae. In the APG classification published in 1998, they were placed in Asparagales, while the improved APG II classification of 2003, based on genetic relationships, placed them under Asparagales and considered them closely related to Hypoxidaceae. Due to the extreme complexity of orchid flora, all floral characteristics fully demonstrate a high degree of adaptation to insect pollination, and they establish symbiotic relationships with fungi, and are considered the apex of plant evolution.

Orchid family plants are all perennial herbs. Their lifestyles include terrestrial (such as Anacamptis, Bletilla, Spiranthes, etc.), epiphytic (or sometimes lithophytic; most orchids have epiphytic habits), and the strangest saprophytic (such as Gastrodia, Galeola, Lecanorchis, and Cymbidium species such as Cymbidium macrorhizon and Cymbidium multiradicatum, etc.). A few are climbing vines (such as Vanilla), with fibrous roots, and epiphytic ones have aerial roots; stems erect, pendulous, or climbing; leaves simple and alternate, with leaf sheaths; flowers have a labellum specialized due to pollination patterns with insects, and the floral structure is complex; pseudobulbs are organs unique to orchid family plants and are mainly seen in epiphytic orchids. Some varieties have large and beautiful flowers, and different colors and shapes, so they are often cultivated as ornamental flowers.

Edit this section Morphological characteristics

Orchids are herbaceous plants that are easy to keep alive. Roots are fleshy and enlarged, without root hairs, and have symbiotic fungi[2]. They have pseudobulbs, commonly called reed heads, wrapped outside by leaf sheaths, often connected with multiple pseudobulbs, existing in rows at the same time. Leaves are linear or sword-shaped, leathery, upright or drooping. Flowers are solitary or in racemes, with many bracts borne on the pedicel. Flowers are bisexual and fragrant. The corolla consists of 3 sepals, 3 petals, and the column. The middle sepal is called the main petal. The lower 2 are side petals, and the extent to which the side petals spread is called hu. The upper 2 petals are upright, relatively thick and fleshy, with tips curling inward, commonly called pongs. Bilateral symmetry, the labellum, pollinia, and the gynostemium are basic characteristics of orchid family plants: the characteristic of pollen forming masses has some exceptions. Except for Apostasioideae and Cypripedioideae, which do not have them, most other orchid family plants also have pollinia stalks. The ancients said, "One stem with one flower is an orchid," and one stem with many flowers is a huilan.

According to differences and changes in the shape, texture, etc. of the main petal, side petals, pongs, and lip, Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi are divided into plum petal, narcissus petal, lotus petal, butterfly petal, rare type, and plain heart, etc. Plum petal has short and round sepals, relatively thick flesh, slightly inward-curving, narrow base; the pong petals are fleshy and thick with tips curving inward to form a hood; the lip is short and hard, slightly upward when the flower first opens. Famous varieties include Song Mei, Xishen Mei, and others. Narcissus petal has sepals slightly longer than plum petal, with tips gradually pointed; pong petals are thick in texture, with tips also forming a hood; the lip slightly droops or curls backward. Famous varieties include Wang Zi, Cui Yipin, and others. Tea petal has broad and large sepals, thick in texture, narrow at the base, wide at the tip with an abrupt point; pong petals do not form a hood; the lip is relatively moist and slightly curled backward. Famous varieties include Da Fugui, Cui Gaihua, and others. Butterfly petal has the inner side of the two downward sepals becoming thicker in texture, forming wavy wrinkles, and having red patches; sometimes the number of sepals or petals suddenly increases (such as Lü Yun, whose corolla often has around 8 parts), or the flower shape has special changes. Plain heart means the perianth, scape, and bracts are the same color, pure green, yellow-green, etc., without variegated markings. Precious varieties include Zhang He Su, Lao Wentuan Su, and others.

Orchids like shade, fear direct sunlight, like moisture, avoid dryness, and like fertile environments rich in large amounts of humus and with good air circulation[2]. Climate and environment in different places can all affect the growth of orchids, so the choice of planting medium differs. For example, in southern Fujian, the weather in the four seasons is relatively warm and does not get too cold, orchids grow quickly, and small pebbles are suitable for planting. First, it saves resources. Second, pebbles facilitate ventilation and do not accumulate water.

Edit this section Distribution area

Because most terrestrial orchid varieties originate in China, orchids are also called Chinese orchids and are listed first among China's top ten famous flowers. Chinese orchids mainly consist of Cymbidium goeringii,

Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium kanran, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum, and Cymbidium tortisepalum, seven major categories, with thousands of horticultural varieties.

Cymbidium goeringii is also called grass orchid and mountain orchid. Cymbidium goeringii is widely distributed and rich in resources. The flowering period is February to March of the year, and it can last about 1 month. The flowers have a rich and pure fragrance. Precious varieties include lotus, plum, narcissus, butterfly, and other petal types in various colors. In terms of petal type, famous varieties from Jiangsu and Zhejiang are the most typical.

Sample Cymbidium faberi Da Yipin

Sample Cymbidium faberi Da Yipin

Cymbidium faberi roots are thick and long; leaves are narrow and band-shaped, relatively rough and hard in texture, grayish green, with obvious serrations on the leaf margins and prominent midveins. The flowering period is March to May. The flowers have a strong fragrance that spreads far and lasts long. Flower colors include yellow, white, green, light red, and complex colors. Most are colorful flowers, and there are also plain flowers and butterfly flowers.

Cymbidium ensifolium is also called four-season orchid, including summer orchid and autumn orchid that bloom in summer. Four-season orchid is robust and upright, with green leaves and abundant flowers, strong fragrance and beautiful flowers. It is not afraid of heat or cold, has strong vitality, and is easy to cultivate. Different varieties have different flowering periods, and flowers can be seen from May to December.

Cymbidium sinense, also called bao sui lan, bai sui lan, feng sui lan, etc., is native to China's Guangdong, Guangxi, Fujian, Yunnan, Taiwan, China, Hainan, and other places. Orchid growers throughout southern China, especially in Guangdong and Yunnan, most enjoy cultivating and viewing it.

Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum is often called authentic Sichuan orchid. Although Yunnan, Guizhou, and Sichuan all have famous varieties, Sichuan orchid famous varieties are the most precious. Flower colors include red, yellow, white, green, purple, black, and complex colors, brilliant and eye-catching, with graceful appearance, elegant charm, strong fragrance, and pure taste. It is often the first choice praised by orchid growers. Cymbidium kanran

Cymbidium kanran is distributed in Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hunan, Guangdong, and the southwestern regions of Yunnan, Guizhou, and Sichuan. The leaves of Cymbidium kanran are more slender and longer than those of four-season orchid, especially finer at the leaf base. The leaf posture is elegant and unrestrained, green and delicate, with large, medium, and fine leaf varieties and edged varieties. Flower colors are rich, including yellow, green, purple-red, deep purple, etc., generally with variegated veins and spots, and also clean, flawless plain flowers. The sepals and pong petals are relatively narrow and fine, with a unique style, delicate and lovely, and striking fragrance.

Cymbidium tortisepalum is a terrestrial orchid mainly produced in the northwestern Yunnan region of Yunnan Province, blooming each year around New Year's Day and Spring Festival. The petals of this orchid are elliptical-strip-shaped, closely resembling the petals of a blooming lotus root flower. People use one flower as a metaphor for another and named it "lotus petal orchid."

Edit this section Value introduction

Medicinal

According to records, orchids have the reputation of "queen among flowers." The roots, leaves, flowers, fruits, and seeds of orchids all have certain medicinal value[1]. The roots can treat pulmonary tuberculosis, lung abscess, and sprains, and can also set bones; decocting Cymbidium ensifolium roots and taking the liquid is said to be a miraculous medicine for inducing labor. The leaves treat whooping cough, the fruit can stop vomiting, and the seeds treat eye cataracts. The whole plant of Cymbidium faberi can treat women's diseases, and the whole plant of Cymbidium goeringii treats neurasthenia, ascariasis, hemorrhoids, and other diseases. Cymbidium ensifolium leaves can treat deficiency-related lung qi (also written as liver qi). Orchid pedicels can treat malignant ringworm. Plain-heart orchid petals can induce labor. Dried in the shade, the plain-heart petals of Cymbidium faberi can also induce labor.

In rural areas of some parts of Sichuan, orchids are called "labor-inducing flowers." It is said that if a woman encounters difficult labor, quickly bring a pot of "labor-inducing flower" into the delivery room, and when the pregnant woman smells the orchid fragrance, she will give birth smoothly. Whether this has a scientific basis still awaits verification by obstetrics and gynecology experts.

China's traditional orchids are precious flowers with graceful posture and rich fragrance (the fragrance of kings). However, physicians through the ages have summarized very little about their medicinal value. The whole orchid plant can be used as medicine. Its nature is neutral, its taste is pungent and sweet, and it is non-toxic. It has effects such as nourishing yin and moistening the lungs, promoting diuresis and draining dampness, and clearing heat and detoxifying. It can be applied to various internal and gynecological clinical symptoms. The summary is as follows:

1. Nourish yin fluids, promote fluid production and moisten dryness, and treat the sequelae of dry mouth and excessive thirst after radiotherapy for malignant tumors.

[Ming dynasty] Li Shizhen, "Compendium of Materia Medica": "Orchid grass, odor pungent, neutral, sweet, non-toxic." "Its qi is clear and fragrant, promotes fluid production and quenches thirst, moistens muscles and flesh, treats consumptive thirst and gallbladder jaundice." "...To treat consumptive thirst, use orchid leaves in a fluid-producing drink; this likely originates here." Modern medical science uses radium (cobalt-60) for radiotherapy after surgery for some malignant tumors or cancers and has achieved certain therapeutic effects, but it causes a certain degree of damage and functional impact to tissues and organs near the tumor. For example, radiotherapy for nasopharyngeal cancer, malignant tumors of the salivary glands (mucoepidermoid carcinoma), and cancer of the upper and middle esophagus causes damage to various glands in the oral cavity, especially the three pairs of major salivary glands, the parotid, submandibular, and sublingual glands, and to mucosal gland cells of the upper digestive tract, resulting in a large decrease in glandular secretion and symptoms of upper consumptive thirst such as dry throat and burning sensation, dry tongue and scorched lips, and thirst with frequent drinking. Using orchids can treat this condition caused by radiotherapy for malignant tumors, with very good results.

According to clinical experience, combining with some Chinese herbal medicines gives good results for patients receiving radiotherapy for malignant tumors in different parts and organs. For example, for radiotherapy patients with laryngeal cancer, it is often used together with Sophora tonkinensis, Imperata cylindrica, and dandelion; for radiotherapy patients with esophageal cancer, it should be used together with Scutellaria barbata, Hedyotis diffusa, Prunella vulgaris, and Clematis chinensis, etc.

2. Clear heat and cool blood, nourish yin and moisten the lungs, and treat dry cough with prolonged coughing and pulmonary hemoptysis.

Modern traditional Chinese medicine research shows that the whole plant of Cymbidium ensifolium has the effects of clearing heat and cooling blood, nourishing yin and moistening the lungs, and is often used clinically for hemoptysis due to pulmonary tuberculosis and for regulating prolonged dry cough that does not stop.

To treat patients with mild to moderate hemoptysis due to pulmonary tuberculosis, use 50-100 g of fresh Cymbidium ensifolium roots, mash and squeeze the juice or decoct in water and take, twice a day, with obvious effects in 4-6 days.

To treat patients with dry cough that does not stop, use 30-50 orchid stamens, decoct in water, add rock sugar, twice a day, and take for 3-5 days for remarkable effects. This conforms to the discussion in "Compendium of Materia Medica" that "orchid grass mainly treats blood production, regulates qi, nourishes the nutritive qi, and removes phlegm accumulation in the chest."

3. Regulate qi and harmonize blood, drain dampness and reduce swelling, and treat urinary tract infections and women's leukorrhea.

According to "Supplement to the Compendium of Materia Medica," it is recorded: "The yellow orchid is called honey orchid and can stop diarrhea and leukorrhea, promote water passages, kill gu poison, reduce carbuncle swelling, regulate menstruation; taken for a long time it tonifies qi, lightens the body, prevents aging, and communicates with the spirits." Modern traditional Chinese medicine believes that orchid roots have effects such as regulating qi and harmonizing blood, draining dampness, and reducing swelling. They treat urinary tract infections and excessive leukorrhea in women.

Use 50 g of orchid roots, 30 g of cogongrass roots, and 30 g of winter melon peel, decoct in water and take, continuously for 6-10 days, to treat urinary tract infections.

For excessive leukorrhea in women, use 50 g of orchid roots, 30 g of Asparagus cochinchinensis, 30 g of lily, and 1 free-range farm chicken, stew together, take the soup and eat the meat, once every 2-3 days, continuously 2-3 times.

4. Soothe the liver and relieve depression, harmonize qi and blood, and treat dizziness and blurred vision, and neurasthenia.

Modern pharmacological research shows that the aromatic component of orchids, aromatic oil, makes people feel relaxed and happy, clears stale qi, relieves depression and dispels stuffiness, and refreshes the mind.

Treating dizziness and blurred vision (Meniere's syndrome) has achieved results. Prescription: 30 g of orchid stamens, 15 g of chrysanthemum, 15 g of Ophiopogon japonicus, 20 g of Agrimonia pilosa, decoct in water and take, 1 dose per day. Take continuously for 4-6 days. This is based on the records in "Supplement to the Compendium of Materia Medica" that "plain-heart Cymbidium ensifolium removes stale qi and relieves depression" and "honey-pickled green orchid flowers brewed as tea harmonize qi and blood, soothe the middle, and sober one from alcohol."

Use 50 g of orchid roots, 20 g of Canna indica rhizome, and 20 g of Cynanchum paniculatum, decoct in water and take, 1 dose per day, continuously for 10-15 days, to treat neurasthenia.

5. Other medicinal uses

According to the record that "orchid leaves receive the qi of metal and water and seem to have fire; people know the value of their floral fragrance, but do not know that their leaves have medicinal prescriptions; their leaves can strongly disperse long-accumulated stale and depressed qi, namely what today is placed on the right," to treat constipation, stagnation and accumulation in the large and small intestines, thick and greasy tongue coating, dry throat and lung dryness, and foul breath, use 20-30 autumn orchid flowers and 50 g of orchid leaves, decoct in water, and when slightly warm, mix in 30 g of honey and take, continuously 2-3 times. This conforms to the theory that the lungs and large intestine are interior-exterior paired.

Use 50-100 g of fresh orchid roots, wash clean, mash and apply to the affected area, to treat traumatic injuries, subcutaneous bleeding, and muscle tumors.

Edible

(1) Flower fragrance can scent tea

The fragrance of orchids is clear and mellow, and when used to scent tea, the quality is the highest. In orchid-producing areas or large-scale orchid nurseries, orchid tea has development prospects.

According to records: "Flowers can enhance tea, and paste can replace drink." In Fujian Province, villagers candied Cymbidium ensifolium flowers with honey and then drank them. There is also the record: "Use salted plum to extract juice, called plum oil, to soak fresh flowers and make fragrance." In Japan's ancient capital, on the east side of Kyoto, there is an old small shop that for decades has sold inherited "orchid tea." This is made by picking Cymbidium goeringii flowers produced on the mountains north of Kyoto, drying them semi-dry by a special method, then salting them and putting them in a small clay bottle. When using, take two flowers, place them in a teacup, pour in boiling water, and drink. After soaking in water, the orchids recover their original shape, being both beautiful and having a special fragrance; the flavor when drinking is extraordinary. The flowers can also be eaten at the same time.

(2) Flowers can be eaten

The flowers can be made into soup. According to records, flowers can be added to soup. Before adding to soup, first blanch them with hot water; the flower color is fresh and the soup tastes delicious. Orchids can be used in dishes and are a famous Sichuan dish at banquets, with a clear fragrance filling the air around the table, unforgettable for a lifetime after eating. Famous dishes in Sichuan cuisine include "orchid shredded tripe," "orchid shredded pork," and "orchid buns" also have an endless flavor.

Edit this section Commercial value

A Singaporean merchant produced a very unique souvenir by soaking hujihua in 18K or 22K gold liquid, then after it solidified making brooches, small clips, earrings, plates, and other ornaments. Because hujihua is a naturally grown raw material, no two flowers can be exactly the same, so each gold-plated hujihua jewelry piece is also different. In addition, hujihua is also placed in a special wax to make small alarm clocks, pen holders, and various other souvenirs. Singapore is a multiracial country, so souvenirs are also diverse. Walking into Chinatown, Chinese music drifts melodiously, and all kinds of small souvenirs with Chinese characteristics are everywhere. Stepping into "Little India," people find its "Indian flavor" very rich, with saris, spices, garlands, peacock feathers, and more seen everywhere. "Holland Village" sells Western souvenirs, such as Dutch clogs.

In addition to tourist souvenirs for viewing and wearing, Singapore now also turns some high-quality foods into tourist souvenirs for visitors to choose from. Specialties such as Singapore bak kwa and rock sugar bird's nest are deeply loved by tourists.

Edit this section Hometown of orchids

Luotian, Hubei

On the morning of April 2, 2013, the awarding ceremony was held in Luotian County, Huanggang City, Hubei Province. The ceremony was hosted by the China Wild Plant Conservation Association and organized by the Hubei Wild Fauna and Flora Conservation Association, the CPC Luotian County Committee, and the Luotian County People's Government.

Luotian has a mild climate, abundant rainfall, and dense forests across its mountains, with a forest coverage rate of 68.8%, providing favorable ecological conditions for the growth of orchids and promoting the coexistence of multiple orchid communities. In high-altitude forest areas, Goodyera schlechtendaliana, Cypripedium japonicum, and Cleisostoma scolopendrifolium grow abundantly; in mid- and low-altitude mountain forests, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium kanran, and Cymbidium faberi grow abundantly. A total of 18 genera and 25 species of orchids have been found within the county, with a growing area of 1.32 million mu.[5]

Edit this section Cultivation-related

Chinese Orchids

Shaoxing Orchids

Shaoxing is one of the earliest places in China where orchids were cultivated and has long been known as the "hometown of orchids." The Southern Song Baoying-era "Kuaiji Xu Zhi" records: "Orchid, the 'Yuejue Shu' says: Goujian planted orchids on Lanshu Mountain. The old classic says: Lanshu Mountain is the place where Goujian planted orchids." Lanshu Mountain, in present-day Lizhu Lanting, is still renowned at home and abroad for its abundance of Cymbidium goeringii. Shaoxing orchids come in many varieties, and their flower shapes, colors, and fragrances are all distinctive. A single spray indoors fills the room with a delicate fragrance that refreshes the heart and mind. The Ming dynasty painter and calligrapher Xu Wei wrote in a poem praising the orchid: "Do not be surprised that spring light does not belong to you; one fragrance alone is enough to surpass a thousand reds. Even if plucked and placed in Han Niang's sleeve, it will not become the musk scent of the mortal world." Traditional famous orchid cultivars such as "Song Mei," "Lou Mei," "Huanqiu Heding," and "Zandie" all originated in Shaoxing. Shaoxing's rare cultivar "Lüyun" is a nationally protected rare resource. In 1959, a rare multi-petaled famous Shaoxing orchid was named "Zhongshan Hudie He" by Beijing's Zhongshan Park. In 1982, the Shaoxing Municipal People's Congress Standing Committee designated the orchid as the city flower of Shaoxing and established the nation's first orchid association, the Shaoxing Orchid Association.

Major Orchid-Producing County

Yifeng County in Jiangxi is a major orchid-producing county, with extremely rich orchid resources within its territory. Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, and Cymbidium kanran are all distributed there, with Cymbidium kanran being the most prominent and renowned nationwide. In recent years, orchid cultivation and growing in the county's Tanshan and Tianbao areas has developed rapidly, with the emergence of large orchid-growing operations such as Heping Orchid Garden and Baiyi Orchid Garden, and the orchid industry has begun to take shape. In order to guide and support the orchid industry in becoming larger and stronger and achieving scale, the county's orchid association carefully organized orchid enthusiasts to participate in the Second China Cymbidium kanran (Chongqing) Expo. At this exhibition, the county won 3 awards: the divine cat orchid submitted by the county's major orchid grower Yang Heping won a special gold award, a wild-collected Cymbidium goeringii with linear variegation won a silver award, and a side-petal butterfly orchid won a bronze award.

Distribution and Collection

In China, aside from North China, Northeast China, and Ningxia, Qinghai, and ** in Northwest China, every province and region has different species of Cymbidium plants. Generally speaking, terrestrial orchids mostly grow in temperate and subtropical regions, such as Jiangsu and Anhui; epiphytic orchids mostly grow in tropical and subtropical regions, such as Guangdong, Fujian, and Taiwan, China.

Collecting wild orchids in the mountains is of great significance for discovering new varieties and selecting excellent hybrid parents. During the collection process, one must consider the selection of flowering period, improving the survival rate, the local climate, and the local orchid soil's moisture level. Since growing environments vary from place to place, one must also pay attention to safety, fire prevention, not trespassing into restricted areas, and keeping good records of collection and digging.

In the process of orchid cultivation and business, due to the frenzied speculation by orchid merchants on some novel orchid varieties, orchid prices were once driven abnormally high, with "sky-high-priced orchids" constantly appearing. Driven by enormous economic interests, large-scale destructive collection of wild orchid resources occurred, and many wild orchid habitats were extremely damaged. For this reason, the state adopted protective measures such as establishing no-collection reserves, setting variety protection levels, improving legislation on wild resources, and severely punishing illegal collectors.

From the perspective of long-term, effective utilization of orchid resources and respect for and advocacy of environmental protection, orchid enthusiasts should establish a scientific, reasonable, environmentally friendly, and law-abiding awareness of orchid collection.

City flower of Guiyang, city flower of Shaoxing, and provincial flower of Zhejiang.

Chinese Cymbidium faberi

The orchid is a world-famous flower. Within the Chinese orchid family there are more than 15,000 varieties. The Chinese orchid of Asia is Cymbidium faberi; in Oceania and Africa, most are Disa

orchids; Singapore's Vanda, Finland's Convallaria, Yugoslavia's Convallaria, Seychelles' Yucca, Zimbabwe's Gloriosa, and the national orchids designated by South American countries: Brazil's Cattleya, Costa Rica's Cattleya. Ecuador and Guatemala both have Cattleya, Colombia's Cattleya, and Ecuador's white orchid.

Chinese Cymbidium faberi generally refers to a portion of the terrestrial species within the genus Cymbidium. The pseudobulbs are relatively small, the leaves are linear, and the roots are fleshy; the flower stem is upright, bearing 1 to more than 10 flowers, which are small and fragrant, usually pale green with purple-red spots. Leaf and flower morphology and flowering period vary considerably among different species. It is produced south of the Qinling Mountains and in the southwestern region. Its cultivation history is long, at least over a thousand years, and it is one of China's ten traditional famous flowers. Since ancient times, people have regarded the orchid as a symbol of nobility, elegance, patriotism, and unyielding integrity. A orchid culture with rich Chinese national characteristics has formed. It is propagated by division, sowing, or tissue culture. Potted in humus soil, it requires good aeration and drainage; it prefers semi-shade and a humid environment. The overwintering temperature for Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium ensifolium, and Cymbidium kanran is about 10°C, and for the other species about 5°C.

What is today called Chinese orchid was called "hui" in ancient times. As Huang Tingjian (1045-1105) of the Northern Song dynasty described the orchid in "Youfang Pavilion": "One stem with one flower and abundant fragrance is the orchid; one stem with five or seven flowers and insufficient fragrance is the hui."

Ornamental Appreciation and Cultivation

We Chinese have appreciated and cultivated orchids far earlier than the Western cultivation of tropical orchids. As early as the Spring and Autumn period, 2,400 years ago, the Chinese cultural sage Confucius once said: "The angelica and orchid grow in secluded valleys, and do not cease to be fragrant because no one is there; the gentleman cultivates the Way and establishes virtue, and does not change his integrity because of poverty."

Lan, is a fragrant herb. -- "Shuowen"

Heng lan zhi ruo. -- "Han Shu: Biography of Sima Xiangru"

The root of lan huai is zhi. -- "Xunzi: Encouraging Learning"

The root of the Chinese orchid is angelica dahurica, and angelica dahurica symbolizes the common people. Hui and zhi have been the essence of the traditional virtues of benevolence, righteousness, and civil governance since ancient times. The great Tang dynasty poet Li Bai wrote: "The secluded orchid's fragrant wind travels far; the hui grass spreads its fragrant roots." The Cymbidium faberi's roots are with the people.

History of Chinese Orchid Art

Chinese Orchids

Confucius, "Confucius' Family Sayings: In Adversity": The angelica and orchid grow in the deep forest and do not cease to be fragrant because no one is there; the gentleman cultivates the Way and establishes virtue, and does not change his integrity because of poverty. The Song dynasty was the heyday of China's orchid cultivation history, with numerous books and descriptions related to orchid art. For example, Luo Yuan of the Song dynasty wrote in "Erya Yi": "The orchid's leaves are like sedge and emerge in early spring. The flowers are very fragrant and mostly grow in forests. When a gentle breeze passes, its fragrance wafts outward, hence it is called zhi lan. Orchids in Jiangnan bloom only in spring, while those in Jingchu and Minzhong bloom again in autumn and summer." Zhao Shigeng of the Southern Song wrote "Jinzhang Lan Pu" in 1233, which can be said to be the earliest surviving work on orchid research in China and also the world's first monograph on orchids. The book is divided into three volumes and five parts, briefly describing the morphological characteristics of more than 30 varieties of purple orchids (mainly Cymbidium sinense) and white orchids (i.e., solid-colored Cymbidium ensifolium), and discussing the grade of orchids. Following "Jinzhang Lan Pu," Wang Guixue wrote "Wangshi Lan Pu" in 1247, which provided detailed descriptions of more than 30 orchid varieties. In addition, the Song dynasty also had "Lan Pu Ao Fa," which mainly described cultivation methods and was divided into seven parts: division method, planting method, placement and watering method, watering method, fertilizing soil method, ant and insect removal method, and miscellaneous methods. As for Wu Zan's "Zhongyi Biyong," it also introduced orchid cultivation. In 1256, Chen Jingyi's "Quanfang Beizu" gave a relatively detailed account of orchids. The complete block-printed edition of this book was collected in the Japanese Imperial Palace Library, and in 1979 Japan returned a photocopy to China. In the Song dynasty, orchid-themed works that entered Chinese painting include Zhao Mengjian's "Spring Orchid Painting," which is considered the earliest surviving famous orchid painting and is now treasured in the Palace Museum in Beijing.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, orchid art entered another flourishing period. With the continuous increase in orchid varieties and the growing richness of cultivation experience, orchid cultivation became an object of public appreciation. At this time, there were relatively many books, painting albums, poems, and orchid patterns printed on porcelain and certain handicrafts describing orchids, such as Zhang Yingmin's "Luoli Zhai Lan Pu" of the Ming dynasty and the orchid-related records in Gao Lian's "Zunsheng Bajian." The Ming dynasty pharmacologist Li Shizhen's "Bencao Gangmu" also provided relatively complete discussions of orchid nomenclature, categories, and uses. The Qing dynasty also produced many monographs on orchid cultivation, such as the 1805 "Lan Hui Tongxin Lu," written by a Mr. Xu of Jiaxing, Zhejiang, who was addicted to orchids and also skilled at painting them, with rich experience in orchid cultivation. The book is divided into two volumes; volume one discusses orchid cultivation knowledge, and volume two describes methods for identifying and classifying orchid varieties. The entire book records 57 varieties and includes his line drawings. Others such as Yuan Shijun's "Lanyan Shulüe," Du Wenlan's "Yilan Sishuo," Mao Xiang's "Lanyan," Zhu Kerou's "Diyi Xiang Biji," Tu Yongning's "Lan Hui Jing," Zhang Guangzhao's "Xing Lan Pu Lüe," Yue Liang's "Yang Lan Shuo," Wang Hao's "Guang Qunfang Pu," Wu Qijun's "Zhiwu Mingshi Tukao," and the late Qing Ou Jince's "Linghai Lanyan" still have certain reference value today.

Orchid Art

Orchid art developed into modern times with the 1923 publication of "Lan Hui Xiaoshi," written by Wu Enyuan of Hangxian, Zhejiang. Using "Lan Hui Tongxin Lu" as a model, he divided it into three volumes and provided a relatively comprehensive introduction to orchid varieties and cultivation methods at the time. The entire book records 161 famous Zhejiang orchid and hui varieties and is accompanied by multiple photographs and illustrations, both pictorial and textual, fascinating to read. In addition, "Zhong Lan Fa" written by Xia Zhibin in 1930; the 1950 book "Orchids" co-edited by Yao Yumiu and Zhu Youren of Hangzhou; the 1963 "Sichuan's Lan and Hui" compiled by the Chengdu Gardening Bureau; the 1964 "Xiamen Lan Pu" compiled by Yan Chujiang of Fujian; the 1980 "Orchids" by Wu Yingyang and the 1991 "Chinese Orchids," as well as books and magazines introducing Chinese orchids published in Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, China, can be said to be a major achievement in modern Chinese orchid art research.

Orchid art originated in China and spread abroad to Japan and Korea. Today Japan has a strong interest in Chinese orchids, and its historical origins also began in China. Today Japan's orchid cultivation has developed its own system and become a base known as "Oriental orchids." As for Korea, orchid art has inevitably become something revered by the Korean people, and orchids have become an elegant flower for today's Korean people, displayed in living rooms, residences, and halls. Even more praiseworthy is that they present orchids as a high-grade gift.

Humans are the most intelligent of all things, and the orchid is the finest of all flowers. May orchids and hui naturally enter people's spiritual world, and may we together carry forward orchid art, this traditional national essence of the Chinese nation, making friends through orchids and advancing together.

Ancient Orchid-Growing Rhymes

The "Twelve-Month Rhyme" is spoken according to the lunar calendar and is recorded as follows:

In the first month, place it in the east, facing the sunlight opposite the li direction; morning and evening sun exposure need not be managed, just ensure the green color does not change from the norm.

In the second month, cultivation is truly difficult; beware of leaves developing partridge spots; insert bamboo around it to prevent wind breakage; cherish the leaves as you would cherish a jade ring.

In the third month, new shoots emerge from the old clump; remember the flower pot must face away from the west wind; guard against damp places breeding lice; at the roots, strong manure is still disliked.

In the fourth month, the courtyard sun suddenly grows hot, and the soil in the pot dries immediately; do not water with fresh well water; occasionally pour greasy water, whose taste is sweetest.

In the fifth month, new fragrance fills the old stand, and the depths of green shade are most peaceful; at this time the leaves recede according to their nature, and after pruning they appear even more abundant.

In the sixth month, the blazing sun adds summer heat, and the fragrant branches and leaves are just producing flowers; a cool pavilion or waterside chamber is suitable for placement, or a frame may be built in front of the eaves for shade.

In the seventh month, although the heat fades, it is only suitable to water once every three days; earthworms damaging the roots are most detested; bitter soap decoction mixed with urine may be used.

In the eighth month, the weather feels slightly cool, and letting it face wind and sun is also harmless; the wastewater accumulated over the year must now be changed, using water in which chicken feathers have been soaked.

In the ninth month, there is a thin frost; before the steps and under the eaves, be careful about placement; if ants or insects appear, guard against yellow swelling; sprinkle oil tea on the leaves so they are not harmed.

In the tenth month, the warm spring air returns, and next year's flower shoots are again forming embryos; not exposing the secluded roots is truly a wonderful method; when the pot is full, it is especially necessary to repot promptly.

In the eleventh month, it is suitable to face the sun, and at night one must carefully store it away. Always keep the soil surface slightly moist; when dry, the leaves turn yellow.

In the twelfth month, the wind is cold and snow flies again; strictly store it in a warm place to protect the young branches; wait until the freeze thaws and spring takes command, then move it before the courtyard to face the sunlight.

Propagation Methods

Orchids are commonly propagated by division, sowing, and tissue culture.

Division propagation: This can be done in both spring and autumn, generally once every three years. Any plant with robust growth and densely clustered pseudobulbs can be divided. After division, each clump must retain at least 5 pseudobulbs connected together. Before division, reduce watering to make the potting soil relatively dry. When potting after division, first cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces, then spread coarse gravel to occupy 1/5 to 1/4 of the pot depth, then add coarse-grained soil and a small amount of fine soil, and finally plant in sandy loam rich in humus. The planting depth should be such that the pseudobulbs are just barely buried in the soil. Leave a 2 cm rim at the edge of the pot, spread Selaginella uncinata or fine gravel on top, and finally water thoroughly. Place in a shaded area for 10-15 days, keep the soil moist, gradually reduce watering, and carry out normal maintenance.

Sowing propagation: Orchid seeds are extremely fine, containing only one incompletely developed embryo within the seed, with very low germination capacity. In addition, the seed coat does not easily absorb water, so sowing by conventional methods will not germinate. Therefore, orchid mycorrhizal fungi or artificial culture media are needed to supply nutrients for germination. For sowing, it is best to select fruit that has not yet split open. After sterilizing the surface with 75% alcohol, remove the seeds, soak them in 10% sodium hypochlorite for 5-10 minutes, take them out, rinse 3 times with sterile water, and then sow them in culture bottles containing medium. Then place them in a dark culture room, maintaining a temperature of about 25°C. After they begin to sprout, move them into the light and they can form protocorms. From sowing to transplanting takes half a year to a year. Tissue culture has already been successful, and where conditions permit, this method can be used for propagation.

Propagation Techniques

Site selection: The site should be open on all sides, well ventilated, and close to water, with humid air and no coal smoke pollution. On the southwest side of the site, evergreen broadleaf trees can be planted, and the canopy density should be around 0.7. This can reduce afternoon sunlight exposure and regulate humidity and temperature.

Watering: Rainwater or spring water is preferable; water containing salt and alkali should not be used. If tap water is used, it should be left standing for several days before use. Watering should depend on temperature conditions. In spring, the amount of watering should be small; in summer, it should be greater. During the plum rain season, when orchids are sending up leaf buds, the potting soil should be slightly dry. After autumn, when the weather turns cool, the amount of watering should be reduced moderately, keeping it moist. In winter indoors, it should be dry, with watering frequency reduced, and it is best to water at noon. Orchids can tolerate light rain, but continuous rain or heavy rain can easily cause heart rot and leaf rot, so attention must be paid to rain protection.

Fertilizing: For growing orchids, cake fertilizer is suitable. Mix 4 parts plant ash, 10 parts soybean cake, and 10 parts bone meal evenly, place in a vat, add water several times until the soybean cake is soaked and swollen, then cover and seal. After one year of decomposition, make it into dry granules. It can be placed on the pot surface when used. If whole manure is used, it should also be decomposed for one year, diluted with water, and filtered before use. Generally, fertilizing begins in May and stops at the Beginning of Autumn, with the principle of applying thin fertilizer frequently. Fertilizing should be done in the evening, and the next morning water once with clear water.

Shading and cold protection: Except in early spring and winter, orchids should be placed under open-air sheds. The shade shed should be well ventilated. When orchids first come out of the room in March to April, they can get more sunlight, and afterward the shading time should gradually increase. In winter, orchids must be moved indoors for cold protection, and the room temperature only needs to be maintained at 1-2°C. In addition, after orchids come out of the room in spring and before they enter the room in autumn, attention must also be paid to frost protection.

Planting Methods

For divided orchid clumps, do not split them too sparsely. Each clump should have at least 3-5 shoots, and it is best to keep one-year-old plants, two-year-old plants, and three-year-old plants in the same clump.

Pot Padding

Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a piece of tile, then gradually fill with bricks, tile pieces, or shells, with large gaps filled with mud particles or bean-sized stones, generally about 1/2 to 1/3 of the pot's internal height. The remaining clear height above is about 10-15 cm, reserved as the growing medium layer. The specific height should be determined according to the orchid species, the length of the orchid roots, and the height of the pot. The padding material should not be filled too densely or too solidly, and some gaps should be retained. Practice has shown that some new roots can grow well in the gaps of the padding layer.

Planting

On the padding layer, first fill in 2-3 cm of growing medium and press slightly with the hand. Then place the orchid upright on top. Depending on the plant and pot size, several single plants, 2 clumps, 3 clumps, or more clumps can be planted in one pot. Three clumps are best arranged in a tripod formation. Four clumps can be arranged in a square, and five clumps in a plum-blossom formation. The orchid roots should spread naturally, and the leaves should droop in all directions. Slowly place the orchid roots into the pot so that they spread naturally and, as much as possible, do not scrape against the inner wall of the pot. After the orchid plant is in the pot, gradually fix its posture. When one clump is planted per pot, the old pseudobulbs should be positioned toward one side, leaving room for new shoots to develop. When several clumps are planted per pot, the old pseudobulbs of each clump should be relatively gathered toward the center of the pot, so that new roots and new shoots have enough space to develop outward.

Filling Soil

When planting, hold the leaves with one hand and add nutrient soil with the other. Hold the base of the orchid plant and lift it slightly upward to spread the root system, while shaking the pot. Let the growing medium penetrate deep into the root zone; continue adding soil and shaking the pot to adjust the position and height of the orchid plant. Press along the edge of the pot with the hand, but never press too hard and damage the roots. Continue adding soil and pressing until the soil surface is 2-3 cm above the pot rim, slightly in a steamed-bun shape. The growing medium should cover all the orchid roots and reach the base of the pseudobulbs. Regarding the depth of soil filling, tradition holds that Cymbidium goeringii should be planted shallow and Cymbidium faberi should be planted deep, but generally the standard is not to bury the leaf bases on the pseudobulbs. Newly collected orchids growing in the wild leave clear markers on the plant indicating the soil surface level, and this marker can be used as the standard. The size of the pot should also match the size and number of plants; do not use a large pot for a small and few plants, nor a small pot for large and many plants. Generally, the number of plants should be such that after an estimated 2-3 years they will just fill the pot. The size of the plants should match the height of the pot. This is both beneficial for growth and meets ornamental requirements.

Top Dressing

After planting is completed, a layer of small stone granules or green moss can be spread on the surface of the potting soil, preferably high-quality moss from under the forest. It is both attractive and helps regulate moisture. It can also protect the leaf surface from being polluted by muddy water, and prevent new shoots from becoming infected by pathogens in the soil and suffering heart rot. In addition, it can reduce the washing effect of rainwater on the potting soil and keep the potting soil loose.

Watering

After planting is completed, water immediately for the first time. The potting soil must be thoroughly moistened. The water droplets should be fine, and the force should not be strong. If placed in a water basin to soak, it must not be soaked too long. Once the potting soil is soaked, immediately take the orchid pot out and then move it to a shaded place for maintenance.

Test-Tube Cultivation

With the continuous development of orchid tissue culture techniques and sterile sowing techniques, the phenomenon of orchids flowering in test tubes is receiving increasing attention. The main reason this phenomenon attracts the attention of breeders is that artificially hybridized new varieties that originally required many years of conventional cultivation to flower can now, in test tubes, be artificially induced to flower through 1-2 culture cycles. In this way, based on the flowering situation, individuals with excellent traits can be purposefully selected and relatively poor individuals eliminated, thereby shortening the entire breeding cycle and greatly reducing the workload of cultivating large numbers of varieties that have not yet flowered, making breeding work more targeted.

Since we have long been engaged in the development and research of several conventionally cultivated terrestrial orchid species in the genus Cymbidium, the orchids mentioned below all refer to these orchid species, including Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum, Cymbidium tortisepalum, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium kanran, and others.

According to current observations, the ways orchids flower in test tubes can be roughly divided into three types. The first type is when the axillary buds of the orchid seedling develop into flower buds. This method is the same as the flowering method of orchids in conventional cultivation, except that in conventional cultivation a clump of seedlings produces flowers, while in test tubes a single seedling produces flowers. This situation is relatively common in Cymbidium ensifolium and relatively rare in varieties such as Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum. The second type is when the terminal bud of the orchid seedling develops into a flower bud, similar to what is commonly called a "grass-center arrow" (grass-heart arrow), with the flower growing from the very center of the orchid seedling. This situation occurs in all orchid species, especially commonly in Cymbidium goeringii. The third type is when the apex of the protocorm directly differentiates into flower buds. This type is completely controlled by the hormone levels in the medium, flowers quickly and uniformly, and has a high differentiation frequency, and is currently the main method for inducing flowering.

The basic varietal characteristics of orchid flowers that bloom in test tubes will not change; for example, solid-colored varieties produce solid-colored flowers and will absolutely not produce variegated flowers. Any variety with fragrance also has fragrance in its test-tube flowers, and the fragrance is rich, no less than the fragrance of potted orchids, which may surprise many people. Due to temperature and other environmental conditions in the test tube, the flowering period is usually only a few days, not as long-lasting as potted orchids; under low-temperature conditions, the flowering period can be greatly extended. The proportion of malformed flowers produced by orchids in test tubes is relatively high, and for some varieties it can reach 10-20%. Generally speaking, these malformed flowers are usually caused by physiological reasons and external culture conditions, such as hormone levels, inorganic salts, and other physicochemical factors, rather than corresponding genetic changes. Therefore, the appearance of these malformed flowers is meaningless in terms of genetics and breeding. We have tracked and observed many odd-flower strains, hoping to select new excellent varieties from them, but the vast majority later produced normal flowers again, and truly stable ones were extremely few.

One phenomenon very useful to orchid breeders is that, in most cases, the flowers produced in test tubes have a normally developed column with normal pollination ability and seed-setting ability. We have examined the development process of microspores under a microscope and found that the meiosis process and pollen grain formation process are basically normal. Especially for flowers produced by the axillary bud method, after pollination the resulting fruit easily develops normally to seed maturity, and these seeds produced in test tubes have a certain germination capacity. Although the germination rate is lower than that of seeds from potted orchids, for breeders it is already sufficient.

With the continuous advancement of technical levels, people's ability to control orchid flowering in test tubes is becoming stronger and stronger, which will undoubtedly have a positive and profound impact on orchid cross-breeding work. Since the main ornamental value of orchids lies in their floral art, for an unknown variety it is basically impossible to judge its merits from the leaves before flowering. Therefore, breeders must not only select suitable excellent parents for hybridization and cultivate seedlings, but also have to plant all these seedlings, good or bad, into the greenhouse and wait bitterly for several years until flowering before they can screen excellent individual plants from them. The workload of this process is very large. Even if an excellent individual plant is obtained, unfortunately the number of each individual plant is also very small, usually only a few shoots, which simply cannot meet market demand. It is also necessary to use this excellent individual plant as explant material and do tissue culture all over again from the beginning. From starting cross-breeding work to finally supplying commercial seedlings to the market, this process must go through two tissue culture cycles and two cultivation cycles from bottle seedlings to flowering, generally taking more than ten years. The improvement of test-tube flowering technology allows us to screen excellent lines in test tubes without going through the cultivation process, and once selected, they can be directly rapidly propagated without going through the protocorm induction process, shortening the entire breeding cycle by nearly half the time.

Another convenience brought by orchid flowering in test tubes is that it makes in-bottle hybridization of orchids possible, which is a completely new applied research field. Some breeding work requires repeated hybridization, backcrossing, and selfing to achieve the breeding goal and select excellent new varieties. For example, in crossing a solid-colored variety with a plum-petal variety, the first filial generation is usually plum-petal but definitely not solid-colored. This requires backcrossing the first filial generation with the solid-colored parent once, or selfing the first filial generation once, and then selecting solid-colored plum-petal from the second filial generation. Using conventional methods, this process would definitely take more than ten years. Now, with methods to induce orchid flowering in test tubes, we can let the first filial generation flower in test tubes, and perform self-pollination in test tubes or mutual pollination between first filial generation plants, and cultivate seeds. These seeds can be sown directly on medium without disinfection to obtain the second filial generation, and then flowering can be induced, allowing selection of the desired variety from the second filial generation. This process can save at least two cultivation cycles from bottle seedlings to flowering compared with conventional methods.

In addition, because test-tube flowering is not restricted by season and can be induced at any time, this provides great convenience for hybridization between orchid varieties that flower in different seasons or between orchid varieties whose flowering periods do not coincide. In other words, orchids flowering in test tubes provide a stable pollen source for cross-breeding work. Based on this approach, we have largely escaped the limitations of flowering season and the limitations of germplasm quantity (for some varieties with very small numbers, seeing them flower once may require waiting many years, and when they do flower, suitable other parent materials may not necessarily be flowering at the same time), and have successfully achieved hybridization between orchid varieties that flower in different seasons.

At present, research work in the field of orchids is still in a just-starting stage, and there are still many unsatisfactory aspects. Not every variety can be induced to flower, nor can every variety achieve the required flowering rate, and there is still no ready-made procedure that can make all varieties produce flowers. Each variety requires a large amount of experimentation and exploration. However, these are basically technical problems. It is believed that with technological progress and as more insightful people join the research and development in this field, these problems will gradually be solved.

Watering Methods

Watering orchid plants should be based on various natural factors affecting transpiration, such as humidity, temperature, light, wind, season, and weather, so as to adopt different water management measures.

First, look at humidity. If the humidity in the air is low and transpiration is strong, more water should be given; conversely, if the humidity in the air is high or even saturated and transpiration has almost stopped, less water should be given or even no water is needed.

Second, look at temperature. When the temperature is high, transpiration accelerates, water demand is large, and watering frequency should correspondingly increase; conversely, when the temperature is low, water molecules move slowly and diffusion is weak, so water demand is small.

Third, look at light. Strong light accelerates transpiration and the diffusion of water molecules, so water demand is greater; conversely, water demand is smaller. Therefore, when light differs and shading degree differs, water management also differs: those receiving more sun should be watered more, and those facing away from the sun should be watered less.

Fourth, look at wind. Strong wind evaporates water quickly; weak wind evaporates water slowly. Dry southwest wind enhances evaporation, while humid southeast wind relatively weakens transpiration. Orchid pots placed in a drafty spot receive more wind and evaporate water quickly, while orchid pots in a sheltered spot receive less wind and evaporate water slowly.

Fifth, look at season. Different seasons have different temperatures, humidity, and light, and the transpiration of orchid plants also differs greatly. In the hot and dry summer, water more; in the plum rain season, water less or not at all; in the cold, overcast winter, do not water; in the low-temperature early spring, water less; in the mild late spring, which is the sprouting period, water more; in the dry autumn, water more.

Sixth, look at weather. Natural weather is ever-changing. Different weather has different light, temperature, and humidity, and the transpiration of orchid plants also varies greatly. The basic practice is: water more on sunny days, water less on cloudy days, do not water much when rain is imminent, and do not water on rainy (or snowy) days.

Accordingly, it is very difficult to have an accurate and unified management method for watering orchid plants. The so-called saying of "watering once every few days" lacks a scientific basis.

Precautions

Wounds must be protected from bacteria -- when repotting or dividing, if the roots have wounds, first apply fungicide to the wounds to prevent pathogen invasion.

Do not use too large a pot -- planting a small plant in a large pot uses a large amount of growing medium, which easily leads to poor aeration and makes watering difficult to control. If too much water is absorbed, the growing medium dries poorly, and bacteria invade and cause root rot.

Orchids should be planted shallowly -- orchid plants should not be planted too deep, otherwise long-term moisture will cause rot. When planting, fill the growing medium around the roots and base, and the pseudobulbs must be exposed.

Roots should be spread out -- when planting orchids, the roots should be evenly spread out and not pressed together, so that each root can contact the growing medium and aeration is also better.

Do not water for several days -- newly planted orchids may have injured roots. After the wounds are coated with fungicide, do not water for 3-5 days so that the fungicide can take effect and also promote the growth of new shoots and new roots.

Avoid strong light -- newly planted orchids must avoid direct strong light to prevent dehydration. They should be placed in a warm and shaded place, and spraying can be used to increase air humidity until the orchids resume normal growth.

Light Requirements

Orchids mostly belong to semi-shade plants, and most species fear direct sunlight and need appropriate shading. In early to mid-April, orchids can receive more sunlight to promote growth, and after late April they should be appropriately shaded. For Cymbidium faberi and upright-leaf varieties of Cymbidium ensifolium, it is best to place them at the south side of a shaded area so they receive appropriately more sunlight; for drooping-leaf Cymbidium ensifolium and Cymbidium goeringii, 2 hours of light per day is best. From June to September, they should be placed in shade earlier each day, using shade netting or curtains. After October, the weather turns cool and sunlight is weaker, but around noon attention should still be paid to shading work.

Spring Orchid Care Precautions

Spring has many overcast and rainy days, with relatively large temperature fluctuations and easy occurrence of cold waves. If orchids are not well maintained and managed, root rot and bud rot can occur, seriously affecting their normal growth.

Household balcony-type orchid-growing sites should have cold-proof and rain-proof facilities. Cymbidium sinense and Cymbidium goeringii must be placed indoors for protection and management. Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium kanran, and others can be placed outdoors, but attention must be paid to drainage and moisture protection for the orchid pots. It is best to set up plastic film above the orchid pots to shield from rain, pulling it open when clear and covering it when raining, to prevent invasion by cold wind, cold rain, frost, and snow.

When growing orchids, one should always ensure good ventilation. For orchid seedlings in greenhouses and warm sheds, exhaust fans should be installed to exchange air and regulate humidity. For ordinary simple warm sheds and low ground-planted sheds covered with plastic film for freeze protection and rain shielding, windows should also be opened frequently or part of the film lifted to allow air convection, ensuring fresh air and moderate temperature inside the shed.

After the Spring Festival, for Cymbidium sinense and others, cut off the flower stems and do not let them set fruit. Use 0.1% omethoate or dichlorvos solution to gently wipe the upper and lower surfaces of orchid leaves, and use sterilizing drugs and insecticidal drugs to spray once every 7 days and 10 days respectively on the balcony, site surroundings, and potted orchids where orchids are grown. Two hours after using insecticidal drugs, spray clear water once on the leaf surfaces of potted orchids to remove residual chemicals.

Before dividing orchid pots, stop watering for 3-5 days. When the growing medium in the pot is about 70-80% dry, carefully pour out the orchid plant and growing medium, trying as much as possible not to break the orchid roots. Wash clean with disinfectant water or clear water and air-dry. Wait until the orchid roots become soft and white before potting. Use sterile new growing medium for potting, with roots in contact with the growing medium, new plants facing outward and old plants facing inward, and the orchid crown exposed one-third above the soil surface. After planting, place in a shade shed and mist the leaf surfaces morning and evening. After 24 hours, water thoroughly to settle the roots, and after 15 days transfer to normal management.

For orchids planted with new growing medium, apply a light, thin fertilizer once every half month to one month. During the large-seedling and strong-seedling stage, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied frequently, once every three to five days. For rejuvenated orchids, fertilizing can go from once every half month to once a week, depending on whether the orchids can absorb it. For weak grass, rootless grass, and leafless pseudobulbs, however, it is absolutely necessary to maintain them plainly and not apply additional fertilizer; otherwise, haste makes waste and harm results instead.

Cold Regions

If orchids are to be grown well in northern regions, efforts should be made to create environmental conditions suitable for their growth and development and to meet the requirements of their biological characteristics, so that they can grow and flower well. Specifically, the following tasks should be done well.

Choose Good Pots and Growing Medium

For ordinary household orchid growing, clay pots are still better for pot selection. If increased decorative beauty is desired, a colored-glazed porcelain pot can be placed outside the clay pot. The size of the pot should be such that the orchid roots can fully spread out inside the pot. For potting soil, orchid soil is best. It can also be mixed at home. Use 6 parts leaf mold or peat soil, 3 parts sandy soil, and 1 part cake fertilizer, or mix 5 parts leaf mold, 3 parts compost soil, and 2 parts coarse sand evenly. For potting methods, see: Common Knowledge on Purchasing Orchids and Cultivation Techniques.

Watering Should Be Appropriate

Watering orchids is a routine task and also an important link in whether orchid cultivation succeeds. The potting soil of orchids should always remain moist, but excessive water content should be avoided. During cultivation, the amount of watering should be determined according to different seasons and different growth stages of orchids. Generally starting in spring, as temperatures rise, orchids enter a vigorous growth period, and the amount of watering should gradually increase, watering once every 1-2 days. In summer, temperatures are high and it is also a period of vigorous orchid growth, so it is usually suitable to water once each in the early morning and evening, and watering at noon should be strictly avoided. When the rainy season comes, the amount of watering should be flexibly controlled according to the amount of rain and the moisture level of the potting soil, and water accumulation in the pot that causes root rot should be strictly avoided. In late autumn, temperatures begin to drop, and the amount of watering should gradually decrease, watering once every 2-3 days. In winter, temperatures are low and most orchids enter dormancy. At this time, watering should be controlled, watering once every 5-7 days, except that Cymbidium sinense and Cymbidium kanran, which bloom in winter, should be watered somewhat more.

Apply Thin Fertilizer Skillfully

When fertilizing orchids, thin fertilizer should be applied, and concentrated fertilizer should be strictly avoided. There is a saying: "Clear orchids, turbid jasmine." Newly planted orchid plants should not be fertilized in the first year; fertilizing begins after Qingming in the second year and continues until the Beginning of Autumn. Apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water 1-2 times per month. Because orchids have fleshy roots, never apply undecomposed fertilizer, to avoid root rot. Before each fertilizing, control water for 1-2 days and apply when the potting soil is slightly dry. On the morning of the second day after application, water once to prevent unclean matter in the fertilizer liquid from contaminating the root system and harming the orchid roots. When applying liquid fertilizer, be careful to avoid splashing the leaves. For orchid plants that have been cultivated for several years and have reached flowering age, nitrogen fertilizer should be dominant in the early stage to promote new shoot sprouting and rapid growth; phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be dominant in the later stage to help the pseudobulbs enlarge, make the leaves wide and thick, and provide sufficient nutrients for flower bud differentiation. Specifically, before flower bud differentiation each autumn, it is suitable to apply two consecutive liquid fertilizers mainly based on phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. During the bud gestation period, on a clear evening first wash the leaves with clear water, and after they dry, use a small sprayer to spray 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution on the leaf surfaces and undersides, or apply plant ash water to the roots. At this time, foliar fertilization is beneficial for promoting the development of orchid roots, stems, and flowers. Do not fertilize on overcast and rainy days, and stop fertilizing during winter dormancy. About 20 days after the flowers fade, apply two more liquid fertilizers mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer or compound chemical fertilizer, which can promote plant growth.

There are two commonly used fertilizing methods for orchids: one is soil fertilization, and the other is foliar fertilization. Foliar fertilization can make up for insufficient trace elements in orchids, but it should not be done too many times; once every 15 days during the peak growing season is best. Soil fertilization is further divided into two situations: fertilizer applied in the soil is base fertilizer, and fertilizer applied on the soil surface is top dressing. Base fertilizer should not be too much, to avoid fertilizer heating and damaging the roots.

Light Should Be Suitable

Orchids by nature prefer shaded, cool environments and fear direct sunlight. Therefore, in the north, from April to early May, they can appropriately receive more sunlight before 9 a.m. After mid-May, shading is needed, and at this time they should be placed in a cool, ventilated place for cultivation. In winter, place them near a south-facing window to receive more light, so as to enhance their vitality and promote flower bud differentiation. Especially for Cymbidium sinense and Cymbidium kanran, which bloom in winter, they should be placed indoors in a sunny spot in winter; without light they will not flower well. In short, orchid growing should achieve "not out in spring, not in sun in summer, not dry in autumn, not wet in winter," meaning that in spring one should guard against cold wind invasion and not move them outdoors; in summer they fear direct sunlight and should be placed in a cool, ventilated place; in autumn one should guard against the potting soil drying out, as this is the orchid's bud gestation period and the amount of watering should be appropriately increased; in winter they are in a dormant state, and too much water easily causes root rot, so the principle is to alternate between dry and moist.

Pest and Disease Control

The main pests and diseases of orchids are:

(1) Southern blight: mostly occurs in the plum rain season. Attention should be paid to ventilation and light transmission, and good pot soil drainage should be used for prevention. After onset, remove the infected potting soil and sprinkle pentachloronitrobenzene powder or lime.

(2) Anthracnose: present year-round, and more rampant in hot and rainy seasons. In addition to improving environmental conditions, during the onset period first spray with 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 800-1500 times dilution, once every 7-10 days, and then supplement with 1% Bordeaux mixture of equal parts, once every half month.

(3) Scale insects: under conditions of high temperature, high humidity, and poor air circulation, they reproduce fastest. Use conventional methods for control.

(4) Root rot is also called nematode disease. Nematodes parasitize the roots of orchids, causing root rot, poor growth of the above-ground leaves, loss of green color and yellowing of the leaves, and even causing the plant to wilt. Nematode damage creates a large number of wounds and also invites infection by other soil-borne pathogens, causing the plant to become diseased and accelerating its death. The growing medium should be disinfected; it can be sterilized with 100°C steam to kill the eggs. In severe cases, repot immediately, soak the diseased plant in the medicinal solution for 20-30 minutes, remove and air-dry, then replant with fresh medium. In summary, to grow orchids well, one must understand their natural growing environment conditions, take reasonable measures, and strengthen cultivation and management. According to "Orchid Growing Formulas": "Do not take them out in spring, do not expose them to sun in summer, do not let them dry out in autumn, do not keep them wet in winter" - this is a summary of China's orchid-growing experience.

Pollution-free methods for pest and disease control:

Below are some folk remedies passed down among hobbyists for pollution-free control of orchid pests and diseases. "Small" remedies can often solve "big" problems, so orchid enthusiasts may want to give them a try.

1. Tea seed cake

Tea seed cake, also called tea bran or tea seed cake, is the residue left after tea seeds are pressed for oil, and farmers often use it to wash clothes. Tea seed cake contains saponins and glycosides, and its water extract is alkaline, with good stomach-poison and contact-killing effects on pests.

Control methods: 1. Soak crushed powdered tea seed cake and boiling water at a ratio of 1:5 for a day and a night, then use it to drench the orchid pot, and at the same time drench the place where the orchid pots are placed and other orchid pots; it has a good control effect on snails. 2. Spraying orchid plants with tea seed cake water has a very good control effect on aphids and red spiders, reaching over 90%. 3. Tea seed cake water can also kill earthworms. Drench the potting soil thoroughly with tea seed cake water, and after a short while the earthworms will the soil surface; pick them out and remove them. Opinions differ in orchid circles on whether earthworms help or harm orchids. One view holds that earthworms in the pot damage some orchid fungus hyphae and injure the root tips of orchid roots during their activity, so they are pests and must be removed. Another view holds that earthworms in orchid pots can eat much of the decaying matter and rotten orchid roots in the pot, their activity helps loosen the soil, and their droppings can serve as fertilizer for orchids, so their merits outweigh their faults and they need not be killed. Which is right and which is wrong awaits orchid enthusiasts to weigh the pros and cons based on their own practical observations and make a judgment.

2. Strong-smelling vegetables (scallions, garlic, chives, ginger, onions, etc.)

Strong-smelling vegetables each have their own distinctive odor, and their smells can play a role in killing pests and sterilizing.

Control methods: 1. Take 25 g of garlic, crush it and squeeze out the juice, dilute it in 10 L of water, and spray the orchid plants immediately; it can treat aphids, red spiders, scale insects and gray mold. Press peeled garlic into small pieces and place them at equal distances on the surface soil of the orchid pot; after a few days earthworms and ants will disappear. 2. Soak chopped scallions and water at a ratio of 1:30 for a day and a night, then filter, and use it to spray orchid plants several times a day for several consecutive days; it has good effects on controlling aphids, soft-bodied pests and powdery mildew. 3. Use 1 jin of ginger, add half a jin of water, mash and extract the juice, add 6 jin of water to each jin of juice, and spray orchid plants; it can control aphids. 4. Mix chive juice and clean water at a ratio of 1:60, use it to spray orchid plants twice a day for several days, and it can cure black spot disease. 5. Take 15 g of chopped onion bulbs, place them in 2 jin of water, seal and soak for 7 hours, then filter, and use the filtrate to spray orchid plants; it can treat red spiders and aphids.

3. Cigarette butts

Tobacco leaves contain about 3% nicotine. Nicotine has a strong contact-killing and stomach-poison effect on pests. Take about 20 leftover cigarette butts and one portion of quicklime, add water, stir, soak and filter, then add 30 portions of water, and use it to spray orchid plants, potting soil and the bottom of the pots; it can eliminate ants and other pests without a waxy coating.

4. Laundry detergent and detergent

Laundry detergent can dissolve the waxy covering of scale insects and at the same time form a layer of foam that wraps around the insect body, suffocating the scale insects to death. Laundry detergent solution can control some pests and diseases.

Control methods: 1. Dissolve a small amount of laundry detergent in warm water, then dilute with water to a 1000-fold solution and spray orchid plants; it can kill aphids, whiteflies and red spiders. Dilute to a 600-fold solution, spray once every three days for three consecutive sprays, and all scale insects will die. 2. Mix pig bile and clean water at a ratio of 1:100, add a small amount of laundry detergent, and use it to spray orchid plants; it can control anthracnose and soft rot. After spraying orchid plants with laundry detergent solution, once the pests are dead, the leaves must be rinsed several times with clean water so that the orchid plants can grow normally.

5. Baijiu (white liquor)

Mix baijiu and water at a ratio of 1:2 and spray orchid plants once a week for three consecutive sprays; it can kill scale insects.

6. Orange peel

Placing orange peel at the bottom of the pot can prevent ants and other pests from entering the potting soil to harm orchids. Orange peel can also be cut into small pieces and scattered on the surface of the potting soil; if not watered for a few days, it can treat aphids, scale insects and so on.

7. Brown sugar

Mix powdered brown sugar and boiling water at a ratio of 1:100; after it cools, use the brown sugar liquid to spray orchid plants once every 3 days for three consecutive times; it has a good effect on controlling downy mildew, powdery mildew, black spot disease and leaf blight.

8. Diesel oil

Mix diesel oil and water at a ratio of 1:60 into an emulsion, then dilute it with 100 times water and spray orchid plants; it can treat scale insects and so on.

9. Plant ash

Soak plant ash and water at a ratio of 1:50 for two days and nights, then filter, and use the filtrate to spray orchid plants; it can both treat aphids and increase potassium fertilizer.

10. Vinegar

Mix vinegar and clean water at a ratio of 1:8, and use it to evenly spray the front and back of orchid leaves; it can treat scale insects. If the scale insects have already become adults, the acidity of the mixed liquid can be slightly increased, spraying once every three days for three consecutive times, and it can kill adult scale insects. Spraying vinegar solution on leaf surfaces can also eliminate black spot disease, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, yellowing disease and so on. Industrial acid vinegar must not be used.

. For the control of orchid leaf surface diseases, I adopt three control methods:

First, the leaf surface spray method. A 1000-fold solution of thiophanate-methyl, or an 800-fold solution of carbendazim, can be used for spraying to sterilize and prevent disease. A 1000-fold solution of dimethoate can be mixed in to kill insects, but thiophanate-methyl and carbendazim cannot be mixed together for use, because mixing these two agents will produce resistance and cause loss of control effect. In hot and humid seasons, applying control once every 10 or 15 days according to the solution ratio gives better results.

Second, the root drenching sterilization method. For diseased plants with severe black spot disease, anthracnose and so on, the root drenching sterilization and disinfection measure can be adopted. Specifically, a 1000-fold solution of carbendazim can be used to drench the potting soil or soak the pot, while at the same time spraying the leaf surfaces with the medicinal solution to sterilize; doing this once every 1 week gives very good results.

Third, the injection disease removal method. For diseased leaves of orchid plants that have already severely developed black spot disease and anthracnose, the usual method is to cut them off. If a rare artistic orchid is diseased, cutting off the leaves is truly a pity, so one can imitate the principles of medicine and give the diseased orchid leaves an injection to remove the disease, with particularly good results.

Specific method: Use a pre-prepared 800-fold solution of thiophanate-methyl, draw 18 mL of the medicinal solution into a disposable 20 mL syringe, insert the needle at the diseased spots on the orchid leaf surface while injecting the medicinal solution. Give 1 injection at each diseased spot, and the effect is obvious. When injecting, use a piece of sterilized foam plastic as a backing to prevent the needle from pricking the hand.

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