Lilies love light but cannot tolerate heat. What are the growing methods and precautions?

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

When it comes to lilies, everyone knows them. Their flowers bloom pure white, their form is elegant, and they look absolutely beautiful. Growing a pot of lilies at home is definitely a great choice. So how do you grow potted lilies? Below is a carefully compiled guide to lily growing methods and precautions, very comprehensive.

I. How to grow potted lilies: pay attention to light and temperature

Everyone has surely heard of the lily. It has long been known by the beautiful name "Fairy in Cloud Garments," and its blooming splendor is unforgettable after just one look. As for how to grow potted lilies, we need to address soil, light, water and fertilizer one by one. For the specifics, let us continue reading in the lily growing methods and precautions.

II. Growing methods and precautions for potted lilies

1. Pot and soil: large pot, humus soil

How to grow potted lilies? First, of course, you need to choose the pot and soil. Flower pot: lily roots are well developed, so when choosing a pot, select a larger and deeper one. Soil: lilies have relatively high soil requirements; it is best to grow them in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus and with good drainage.

Soil selection: Regarding the potting soil, the editor recommends using a mix of leaf mold, sand, and garden soil. In addition, be aware that lilies should not be planted in dry calcareous soil.

2. Temperature: 12-18 degrees C

In lily growing methods and precautions, temperature is also extremely critical. Lilies grow best at 12-18 degrees C, but they are relatively cold-hardy. They will not freeze to death at 3-5 degrees C, though lower temperatures will still cause problems.

Precaution: Lilies cannot tolerate heat. When the growing temperature exceeds 25 degrees C, the plant will stop growing.

3. Light: must be sufficient

Lilies love light, and growers must ensure they receive sufficient light. Once light is insufficient, it will not only affect flower bud differentiation but also affect the growth and development of lily flowers. It is worth mentioning that slight shading is actually beneficial to lily growth, so during the process of growing lilies, you still need to judge based on actual conditions.

4. Watering

When growing plants, watering is a must, and in lily growing methods and precautions, watering is also extremely important. Normally, you only need to keep the potting soil moist, but during the growing season, you should water appropriately more often and frequently sprinkle water around the flower pot to increase air humidity.

5. Fertilizing

In lily growing methods and precautions, although lilies do not have high fertilizer requirements, appropriate fertilizing is still key if you want them to grow well. During the spring growing period or early flowering stage, fertilizing once every half month is sufficient. During the flowering period, to promote blooming, you can apply 1-2 additional applications of phosphorus fertilizer.

III. Precautions for growing lilies

In the lily growing methods above, the editor has already introduced several points that need attention, and everyone has surely remembered them. However, besides what was mentioned above, there are three more points growers need to note: 1 is pruning, 2 is repotting, 3 is pest and disease control. The precautions for growing lilies are as follows:

1. Pruning

In the precautions for growing lilies, pruning is something everyone must pay attention to. For various reasons, lilies easily produce flower buds, and at this time growers should remove the buds to prevent nutrient consumption. In addition, after lilies finish blooming, promptly cut off the spent flowers to reduce nutrient consumption.

2. Pot and soil replacement

During the process of growing lilies, to help the plant grow better, you should replace the potting soil once a year, using clean fresh growing medium and base fertilizer.

3. Pest and disease control

During the process of growing lilies, it is unavoidable that they will be harmed by pests and diseases. It is understood that besides being harmed by aphids, cutworms and other insects, penicillium rot, Rhizoctonia, Pythium and others also threaten lily growth. Once discovered, growers should address the problem with appropriate medications. As for exactly which chemicals to spray, there is a detailed introduction in the pest and disease control section for lilies, so we will not elaborate here.

How to grow lilies: teaching you the growing methods and precautions for potted lilies

Like all living things, for lilies to grow vigorously and ultimately produce beautiful flowers, the most fundamental conditions are: the bulbs themselves must be of good quality, the environment must be suitable, management must keep up, and from the start of planned planting until the final flower withers, you must always care for them and manage them meticulously. Only then can you ensure that lilies will be as you wish, pleasing to the eye. As for whether you can make money, that depends on whether the market cooperates, but growers plant them for their own enjoyment, so that is beyond the scope of this article.

1. Successfully ordering high-quality bulbs is the foundation of successful planting. However, since bulbs are not industrial products but agricultural crops, and moreover imported products facing various national quality inspection requirements, problems of various kinds will always exist. No matter which company it is, domestic or foreign, if they pat their chest and guarantee that your order (supply, supply quality) has no problems at all, then they are definitely a fraud. That being the case, you can only choose reliable suppliers to reduce the probability of problems with the bulbs.

High-quality lily bulbs: firm, clean, with a good root system

The common problem with lily bulbs is penicillium infection (as shown in the image below). If the infection has not affected the basal plate of the bulb, the problem is not serious.

Freeze damage -- the bulb's sprout turns black (as shown in the image below). In severe cases, it can only be discarded.

2. Environment: The common promotional phrase is "even grass has life." I remember a Dutch expert also said, "The water you can drink, it can drink too; the environment you can stay in, it can too." "Even grass has life" speaks the truth. You must treat it like your own baby -- touch it, sense it, and then change its environment accordingly at any time. Only then can it reward you with beautiful flowers.

1) Soil:

Soil structure: Although lilies can grow in all types of soil, it is very important to ensure that the growing soil has a good structure and maintains good drainage throughout the entire growth stage. Poor soil structure and compaction often cause lily roots to grow weakly or even die from lack of oxygen, or due to poor drainage, Pythium runs rampant and causes lily root death, ultimately leading to poor lily growth or even death.

The image below shows the situation where soil was flooded by heavy rain from a typhoon, causing root death from lack of oxygen. Of course, overly compacted soil makes the situation even worse.

Soil pH and salinity: Maintaining an appropriate soil pH is very important for lily root development and proper nutrient absorption. If the pH is too low, it will lead to excessive absorption of mineral nutrients (such as iron, manganese, aluminum), while if the pH is too high, it will lead to insufficient absorption of phosphorus, manganese and iron. Everyone knows that deficiency is bad, but not everyone knows that excess is just as bad.

Lilies are also sensitive to salinity. Excessive salinity will produce hard, brittle roots that are yellow or brown in color, reducing the root system's water absorption, affecting lily quality, and in severe cases even causing lily root death and lily plant death. Soil salinity is often affected by the fertilizers and water used.

The image below shows what was originally a very beautiful root system. Due to the use of uncomposted organic fertilizer, the roots partially or entirely died. What a great pity.

Soil pathogens: Lilies often die because soil fungi harm the root system. Common fungi include Rhizoctonia, Pythium and Phytophthora. Rhizoctonia only causes harm while the sprouts are still in the soil, and Pythium can be mitigated by improving soil drainage. Generally speaking, during the entire growth process, it is very necessary to use broad-spectrum fungicides several times, such as chlorothalonil.

The image below shows damage from Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.

From the above, it is clear how crucial suitable growing soil is for successful cultivation. If the soil is bad, no matter how much effort you put into management, you can only look on in tears. Therefore, it is best to choose soil that has never been used to grow lilies before. Of course, the most ideal choice is peat (domestic peat is fine). To reduce management difficulty, using 80% peat with 20% perlite or pine bark medium is very wise. If considering base fertilizer, using controlled-release fertilizer with a controllable release rate is most ideal. If you are very fond of organic fertilizer, be sure to use fully composted organic fertilizer.

With such a good root system, why worry about not having beautiful lily flowers?

2) Temperature

Rooting stage temperature: For 2-3 weeks after planting, maintaining an appropriately low temperature (10-12 degrees C) to ensure that lilies can grow good stem roots is very critical. However, most of the time, we cannot guarantee such ideal weather. Therefore, professional growers use cold storage for rooting, and we can use the crisper drawer of a refrigerator. Wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat not too wet, enough that a handful squeezed drips slightly) (breathable) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper drawer for rooting is a good idea. Although low temperatures will extend the growing period, I think everyone would not mind managing them for a few more days.

For pre-rooted situations, in high-temperature seasons, root first, then plant.

Growing period temperature: Although the ideal growing temperature for lilies is 15-25 degrees C, we cannot control the temperature of nature. However, we should still avoid extreme situations. Lilies below 5 degrees C are very prone to freeze damage, and above 35 degrees C, the growing period will be greatly shortened and quality will decline accordingly. In summers with strong sunlight, we can lower the temperature through shading and enhanced ventilation. How pleasant it would be to have cool breezes under the shade of trees in summer.

3) Relative humidity: The suitable relative humidity for lilies needs to be between 70-80%, but this refers to professional producers growing in greenhouses. For lilies grown in your yard or placed on a balcony, there is no need to consider this. In greenhouses, poor growth is often caused by excessive humidity, but I have not seen outdoor lilies grow poorly even during continuous rainy weather (provided the soil drainage is good and fungicides are regularly applied to control Botrytis). Of course, slight effects will still occur. This is because ventilation in greenhouses is very poor -- a person entering would feel very stuffy, and plants feel the same way.

Here are a few images of lily leaf damage caused by excessive greenhouse humidity.

Due to excessive humidity, the water pressure inside the plant becomes too high, and ultimately the leaves are damaged when cell walls rupture. In severe cases, even the flower buds are gone. This is a physiological disorder, not pathogen damage, so applying fungicides is useless. Using calcium fertilizer can increase the resistance of cell walls and can reduce the damage.

Long periods of rainy weather make the plant's leaves very tender. Moreover, because the plant needs to expel excess water from its body, the leaf stomata remain open for extended periods. Being open for so long causes the leaf stomata to ultimately lose their closing function (they would normally open and close automatically according to climate conditions). After the rainy weather passes, the leaf stomata still remain open, continuously transpiring and expelling water, which ultimately causes the leaves to lose water, become papery, and even scorch.

4) Shading: Shading can control temperature, relative humidity and light.

In summer, sunlight is usually very strong. For 2-3 weeks after planting (before bud appearance), you can shade 80% of the light. After buds appear, since Asiatic lilies and LA hybrid lilies are sensitive to light, lack of light will cause bud abortion, so you can appropriately reduce shading, for example shading 50% of the light. Oriental lilies are not sensitive to light, so you can still shade 50-70% of the light.

General steps for home potted lilies:

1. Preparation stage:

1) Growing medium: It is recommended to choose peat soil as the main medium for planting.

2) Fertilizer: It is recommended to mix 3 kg of 14-14-14 slow-release fertilizer and 0.5 kg of calcium nitrate per cubic meter of medium as base fertilizer.

3) Pots: A 13 cm pot can hold 3 bulbs of 12-14 cm size; a 15 cm pot can hold 3 bulbs of 12-14 or 14-16 cm size. In this way, choose pots according to your situation. Pots should preferably be at least 12 cm tall.

2. Receiving lily bulbs: After long-distance shipping, when you receive the lily bulbs, they will have thawed. Normally, they should have small sprouts. As long as the sprouts are no longer than 5 cm and are not broken, then even curved sprouts are no problem at all. Please plant them with confidence.

When you receive the bulbs, you can soak them in a 600-800 times dilution of chlorothalonil solution for 30 minutes.

3. Planting:

1) First, mix the medium and base fertilizer evenly, and water until a handful squeezed drips slightly.

2) Spread 2-3 cm of the mixed medium at the bottom of the pot.

3) Place the bulbs in the pot with the sprouts facing outward.

4) Cover the bulbs with about 8 cm of medium.

5) Water thoroughly, place in a shaded area, and avoid sunlight as much as possible.

4. The recommended planting quantity per pot is 1, 3, or 5 bulbs. Odd numbers look better. If 5 or more, then odd or even numbers do not matter.

At temperatures of 6-7 months, sprouts generally emerge in 7 days.

1. Medium: peat soil

2. Fertilizer: controlled-release fertilizer, calcium nitrate

3. Pot: 160 dual-color pot, plant 3 bulbs

4. Planting

1) Correct planting method: the bulb's sprout faces toward the pot wall.

Incorrect planting method: the bulb's sprout faces toward the center. Consequence: all sprouts concentrate in the middle, which does not look good.

Of course, if planted randomly, when the sprouts grow out, they will be very messy and disorderly, which does not look good. As for potting, it is best to wait until the bulbs have 3-5 cm sprouts before planting. This way you can control the direction of the sprouts, and the overall appearance of the plant will be better.

What growing environment after planting?

For two weeks after planting, lily growth still requires relatively low temperatures to continue developing a good root system. So for potted lilies, after planting you can choose a place without direct sunlight. For lilies planted in the open ground, you can use shade netting to block direct sunlight. However, whether potted or field-grown, once lilies show flower buds, they should immediately be exposed to light. Potted ones can be moved to a well-lit location, and for field-grown ones the shade covering must be removed. Otherwise, it will affect the number of lily buds and flowering quality. Asiatic lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and in severe cases all buds may drop. Appropriate topdressing can make lily stems thicker and stronger, especially in hot summers. But note that the concentration should be lighter than usual to avoid fertilizer burn. For topdressing, you can still choose a high-potassium lily-specific fertilizer 15-15-30 diluted in water at a concentration of 1000-1500 ppm, that is, 1 gram of water-soluble fertilizer added to 1-1.5 liters of water, mixed evenly.

Each variety has different characteristics, and flowering times also differ. However, temperature also affects how early or late flowering occurs. For the normal flowering time of specific varieties, please refer to each variety's product information. Here, I want to remind friends in the northernmost areas: in the later stages of lily growth, if the nighttime temperature drops below 10 degrees C, please move the lilies indoors at night. Generally speaking, the time from rooting to flowering for Oriental lilies is about 100 days, while for Asiatic lilies it takes only about 60 days. So when choosing varieties, growers should select based on local climate conditions and their own care conditions, to avoid the situation where just as they are about to bloom, they get frozen and all your previous effort is wasted. Would that not be a pity?

Notes:

1. The earlier mention that "you can use the refrigerator's crisper drawer -- wrapping lily bulbs in peat (peat not too wet, enough that a handful squeezed drips slightly) (breathable) and placing them in the refrigerator's crisper drawer for rooting is a good idea" -- if placed in the refrigerator's cold storage compartment to go through the 2-3 week rooting period, then when taken out from the 5 degrees C temperature of the cold storage, the outside temperature is at least 25 degrees C. Can they adapt?

Answer: Yes. Professional lily cut flower producers take rooted lily bulbs out of cold storage when the temperature inside the greenhouse is as high as 40 degrees C. However, please pay attention to shading in the early stage, and reduce the degree of shading after buds appear. If heavy shading of 80% is maintained throughout, Asiatic lilies may abort their buds due to lack of light.

2. How to handle bulbs after flowers fade

After the flowers fade, please cut off the spent flowers. Of course, the stems and leaves are retained. At the same time, please continue normal care. Generally, when the low-temperature season (November-December) arrives, the above-ground stems will die, and the bulbs will remain in the soil. During this stage, please reduce water and fertilizer use. After spring begins, as long as the bulbs have not rotted or been eaten by insects, they will grow and bloom again. For lilies planted in the yard, you do not need to worry about them. The next year they will grow out nicely, year after year, and more and more small lilies will appear.

3. Sharing a few images of professional lily pot cultivation from abroad

* How to grow potted lilies

Lilies are cool-climate flowers, meaning regions with a cool climate and large day-night temperature differences are most suitable for growing lilies.

Lilies do not have the brown outer skin on tulip bulbs. Before being planted in soil, they must be stored at a constant 2 degrees C, otherwise they will quickly develop roots and are prone to rotting. So after purchasing lily bulbs from the market, be sure to plant them as soon as possible and do not leave them for long.

I. Prepare the bulbs

The top is the sprout, the bottom is the roots. Do not get them upside down! Some bulbs have not yet grown roots; look for the scales opening upward -- that is the sprout!

Before planting, the bulbs should first be disinfected by soaking in a 1000 times dilution of imported carbendazim solution for 20 minutes, rinsing with clean water, and planting after drying.

II. Prepare soil and pots

Lilies prefer fertile sandy soil with good water retention and drainage. Peat : river sand : perlite = 2:2:1. You can also use cactus-type soil. In any case, do not use clay soil.

Since lilies are bulbous flowers with two layers of roots, the container chosen should be a relatively deep pot.

III. Planting

First put 10-15 cm of soil in the bottom of the pot, place the bulbs. If three bulbs per pot, place the bulb heads toward the edge of the pot, that is, tilt them toward the pot edge, so that after sprouting the plants will be evenly distributed. Cover the tops of the bulbs with about 5 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a cool place for 1-2 days.

IV. Care

Water: Keep the soil moist. From just having buds to the flowering period, spraying water twice a day, morning and evening, is sufficient. In addition, water with a 1000 times dilution of imported carbendazim solution twice a month.

Fertilizing: Generally fertilize once every half month.

Common problems in lily cultivation

1. Leaf scorch

Cause of leaf scorch: caused by physiological calcium deficiency

Conditions for occurrence: prone to occur under conditions of excessive shading, poor ventilation, high air humidity, consecutive cloudy days, soil pH too low, poor plant root system, etc.

Preventive measures: Improve ventilation conditions and increase plant water transpiration.

Appropriately provide light earlier to harden the seedlings.

Using root treatment before planting helps root development and calcium ion absorption.

Peeling leaves (separating the tightly clasped leaves) just before the leaf scorch period can also reduce the occurrence of leaf scorch.

Keep dry and avoid prolonged water accumulation on the plants.

Increase calcium fertilizer such as calcium nitrate, which can be applied through root fertilizing or foliar spraying.

2. Root burn

Cause of root burn: salt concentration in the soil solution is too high

A. The soil itself is severely salinized with excessively high EC value;

B. Improper fertilizing, applying too much fertilizer at once, causing excessively high soil solution concentration;

C. Insufficient water, soil too dry, which also causes increased soil solution concentration.

Preventive measures: Do not choose soil with excessively high salinity; do not place high-salt medium or fertilizer directly on the bulbs; use the method of frequent light fertilizing to avoid applying large amounts of fertilizer at once and causing root burn; regularly check the root system. If root burn occurs, water promptly and combine with foliar fertilizer spraying.

3. High temperatures have a serious impact on lilies. High temperatures should be avoided as much as possible, including high soil and environmental temperatures. Above 30 degrees C is considered high temperature.

4. Common leaf yellowing

5. Phytophthora blight

Preventive measures:

A. Focus on prevention. Avoid continuously excessive soil moisture (especially avoid flooding) and excessive air humidity. Try to avoid air humidity above 90%.

B. Disinfect soil and bulbs before planting. You can choose dexon, phosethyl-Al manganese zinc, hymexazol, etc.

C. Avoid continuous cropping in fields of diseased crops that share the same pathogen hosts, such as avoiding continuous cropping with baby's breath, carnations, and vegetables in the Solanaceae and Cucurbitaceae families. That is: soil that has previously grown baby's breath, carnations, Solanaceae plants, or cucurbits should as far as possible not be used to grow lilies again.

6. Root rot

Preventive measures:

Control soil moisture

Disinfect bulbs and soil with carbendazim, dexon, hymexazol, etc.

Reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizer used, especially ammoniacal nitrogen, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer

7. Fusarium stem rot

Preventive measures:

Disinfect bulbs and soil before planting; lower soil temperature

8. Gray mold - avoid persistently high-humidity conditions

9. Blind flower (no flower)

Causes of blind flower:

A. Insufficient water and fertilizer supply: The lily is a flower variety that requires a relatively large supply of water and fertilizer. In the early stage it mainly relies on the nutrients of the bulb to supply plant growth, and in the middle and late stages it mainly relies on fertilizer and water supply and photosynthesis to maintain plant growth. If the water and fertilizer supply is poor, it will seriously affect the growth and development of the lily, causing the branches to be thick at the bottom and thin at the top, and the plant to be weak; in severe cases it will cause blind flowers and bud drop.

B. Too high temperature: Too high a temperature will seriously affect lily quality: lilies prefer a cool climate. If the temperature is too high, growth is too rapid, substance accumulation in the plant is low, and organic matter consumption is high, which will cause malnutrition and in severe cases cause blind flowers and bud drop.

C. Insufficient light: Insufficient light, overly dense planting, and poor ventilation affect the plant's photosynthesis, resulting in low substance accumulation and easily causing weak plants and even bud drop. OT-type lilies in particular are more sensitive to light, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion.

D. Insufficient nutrients in the bulb: Bulbs that are too small in size, harvested too early, or stored too long will also have insufficient nutrients, easily causing blind flowers and bud drop in lilies.

E. Planting depth too deep: Planting too deep causes lilies to emerge slowly, which consumes a large part of the bulb's nutrients, leaving the plant with insufficient nutrients and poor growth, and in severe cases causing blind flowers.

F. Poor root growth of the lily: If the lily's root system is poor, its absorption capacity is insufficient, causing nutrient deficiency in the plant. The nutrients supplied for bud growth are not enough, bud growth is inhibited, and blind flowers and bud drop will also occur.

★Lily variety selection and planting methods

I. Basic introduction

Lilies are hard to grow?

Actually that is not the case

I am a bulb enthusiast, and the order I have reached after many years of cultivation is

Ease of growing: (common problems in parentheses)

Rain lily > Amaryllis (expensive...)=Freesia (lodging)=Portuguese squill (messy foliage)=Crocus (degeneration)>Lily (bud abortion and bulb rot)>Dutch narcissus (bulb rot, degeneration, slow growth)>Hyacinth (arrow trapping, bulb rot, degeneration)>Tulip (bulb rot, bud abortion, one-time)>Ranunculus (one word: rot)>Anemone (rotting nonstop from the very beginning)

There are too many oxalis varieties to say for sure; some are as easy to grow as weeds, while others are god-tier difficult

Gloxinia and cyclamen are better grown as herbaceous plants and are not included in the ranking; bulbous irises are not widely popular either, so they are not included

It can be seen that lilies are not only suitable as cut flowers in flower shops; as household potted plants and perennial garden plants they are also very good

Most of the parents of lily hybrids actually come from China, making them authentically Chinese flowers and very well adapted to our climate (except Oriental lilies, which come from Japan)

II. Variety selection

Order of ease of growing

LA > Asiatic (A) > Longiflorum (L) = LO > OT > Oriental (O)

LA is an improvement on Asiatic lilies, producing bulblets faster, with large flowers

LO can be considered an improvement on Longiflorum, with richer flower colors and stronger fragrance

OT improves the heat tolerance, reproduction rate, and ease of growing of Oriental lilies

Fragrance

Oriental = OT > Longiflorum = LO >> LA; Asiatic = 0

The last two, the Asiatic types, are basically fragrance-free, suitable for flower lovers who dislike the fragrance of lilies

Longiflorum has a light, sweet fragrance, stronger at night.

The first two are strongly fragrant; Oriental is the scent of flower-shop lilies, OT is sometimes sweet and sometimes pungent, and LO is a mixed scent of Longiflorum and Oriental, with very weak fragrance in hot weather.

1. Lily flowers are generally most fragrant 1-2 days after opening, then gradually become lighter; it is normal for them not to be very fragrant just after opening

2. The fragrance of lily flowers is not harmful to the human body and will not trigger allergies; it is only that an overly strong fragrance may stimulate the olfactory nerves of sensitive people and cause symptoms such as dizziness and excitement with difficulty sleeping

3. Lily pollen easily stains clothing and skin. Do not rinse with water, as it will stick more firmly; instead use clear tape to lift it off. Even so, cutting off the stamens is a good method

Main hybrid classifications, and their detailed advantages and disadvantages

1. Asiatic lily (Asiatic)

Advantages: Many flower colors, short plant height, many buds, flowers facing upward, early flowering (2-3 months from planting), easy to grow, fast reproduction, extremely cold-hardy (can overwinter outdoors in Northeast China)

Disadvantages: Flowers are on the small side (12-15 cm), no fragrance, relatively high light requirements during the bud stage, and insufficient light easily causes bud abortion

Representative varieties: Many; most can be chosen with confidence, and there are also potted types with a plant height of about 20-30 cm

The potted effect of Asiatic lily 'Spring Field': pot diameter 15 cm; the right side is the result of chlormequat treatment, and the far left is the original plant height

Actual pot cultivation cannot reach the nominal plant height (110 cm); that is the height after two to three years of cultivation

Springfield

Tinos

2. Oriental lily (Oriental), commonly called perfume lily together with OT, used as flower-shop cut flowers

Advantages: Strong fragrance, large flowers (15-20 cm), low light requirements, flat flower shape, broad leaves, and bold and gorgeous blooms

Disadvantages: Some varieties are spindly and prone to lodging, not very heat-tolerant, relatively slow to reproduce, late flowering, and lower leaves yellow more severely

Representative varieties: Sorbonne (the pale pink flowers in flower shops), Siberia (the white flowers in flower shops)

Potted Oriental lily effect (the famous variety Stargazer), very beautiful; note that the leaves are fewer and broader and thicker than those of Asiatic lilies

Sorbonne

3. Musk/Longiflorum lily (Longiflorum), also called Easter lily

Advantages: Elegant and graceful flower shape, very easy to grow, moisture-tolerant, fast to reproduce; cold hardiness is relatively poor, native to the subtropics, and does not need low-temperature dormancy

Disadvantages: Only white (all pink and yellow series are LO hybrids; online shops all labeled them incorrectly this year), and pollen easily stains the petals

Representative variety: You have all heard of the famous White Heaven, right?

4. LO hybrids - recommended

Advantages: Inherits the flower shape and ease of growing of Longiflorum, and the flower color and fragrance of Oriental; very easy to grow and reproduce, large flowers (18-25 cm), fast development, and no need for low-temperature dormancy

Disadvantages: Under high temperatures the flowering period of a single bloom is not long, buds are on the few side, color fades under insufficient light, and there are relatively few varieties in China

Representative variety: Triumphator is its outstanding representative; it is especially recommended, one of the lilies that any beginner can keep alive (often sold out...)

Potted effect of Little Triumph; note that it is relatively tall and has large flowers

Under strong light and low temperature the flower color is very intense

5. OT hybrids - recommended

Advantages: Inherits the excellent genes of Trumpet lilies (whose parents are Lilium regale from Sichuan and so on), has richer flower colors than Oriental, is heat-tolerant and easy to grow, has robust plants, and does not need low-temperature dormancy. The stems are very thick, the flowers are large (20-25 cm), and the fragrance is rich; suitable for courtyards and large containers, commonly known abroad as Tree lily

Disadvantages: In the first year there are often not many flowers, some varieties have flowers so large they are deformed, and the flowers easily droop

Representative varieties: Conca D'or, Yelloween, Nymph; the colors cover a wide range, especially the yellow series that Oriental lilies do not have

Note: Except for Yelloween, yellow varieties generally have fewer buds; even a 16-18 cm bulb has only two to three buds

A perennial Conca D'or; note the height and number of flowers

Yelloween, large flowers with a rich fruity sweet fragrance

6. LA hybrids - recommended

Advantages: Reproduces even more crazily than Asiatic lilies, large flowers, some varieties have a light fragrance; this type likes to divide bulbs madly and is not as prone to bud abortion as Asiatic lilies

Disadvantages: Like Asiatic lilies, the flower shape is relatively stiff, flowers are prone to deformity, and the number of flowers is often fewer than Asiatic lilies

Representative varieties: Red Alert, Diamond Party, etc.; basically you can choose freely with no taboos

Potted effect of Red Alert: compared with Asiatic lilies, the flowers are larger and the leaves broader; the Longiflorum flower shape was not inherited, and the fragrance comes and goes

Red Alert

7. Edible lilies

The most common is often the Chinese native species Lilium lancifolium; the plant is tall and slender, the petals are recurved, and it is easy to grow, but not suitable for indoors

Its ornamental value may be inferior to Dutch hybrids; it is one of the parents of Asiatic lilies

Very distinctive recurved, drooping flowers

Sometimes used by unscrupulous sellers to pass it off as a perfume lily

8. Double-flowered lilies

Divided into Asiatic and Oriental types; their characteristics and care are the same as above. They are rather like double amaryllis, while the distinctive features of lilies are not strong; they are prone to deformity and incomplete petalization

III. Indoor care

1. Light

Not very picky; they can also be grown on an enclosed balcony, and east, west, and south exposures are all fine

At least 3 hours of direct light, with 4-6 hours being better

The blazing sun of a west-facing exposure may scorch Oriental lily leaves, so moderate protection should be given

Note that when Asiatic lily buds are the size of a peanut, light must not be lacking, otherwise the buds will abort

2. Soil; this is the most important. Water permeability and air permeability are the first principles

I use peat and perlite, but the materials are not limited; as long as it is loose, airy, and light, and prevents bulb rot

Peat (grass peat, sterilized nutrient soil, compost soil, coconut coir): perlite (or various granular potting media) = 2:1 to 1:1

The soil near the bulb can have a bit more perlite added, which makes it safer

When mixing soil, slow-release fertilizer/organic fertilizer can be evenly blended in; do not pile it all at the bottom of the bulb, as it will not be absorbed and can easily cause bulb rot

3. Water

Except that Oriental lilies are best kept evenly moist, the other varieties are very drought-tolerant (especially when planted in the ground), so it is better to err on the side of less than more; it is fine to wait until the pot soil becomes lighter, or the surface soil dries out completely, before watering

For each watering you can rely on the weight of the pot; when it becomes lighter, water thoroughly

The signs of overwatering are bulb rot, a large number of lower leaves turning yellow and falling off, withered and scorched flower buds, and scorched yellow top leaves; if any one of these appears, be on guard

Underwatering rarely occurs; bulbs and fleshy stems can both store water, so if wilting occurs, first suspect bulb rot rather than lack of water

4. Fertilizer and bulb nurturing

Lilies like fertilizer, but fertilizer should be applied lightly and often; heavy fertilizer will cause leaf burn (scorched leaf tips, dead flower buds)

If growing them for only one season, no fertilization is necessary

If you want them to bloom again year after year, then fertilizing after flowering is very important, mainly with nitrogen and potassium fertilizer

The nutrient absorption ratio of lilies: nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium = 10:1:12, but phosphorus fertilizer is easily fixed and not easily absorbed, so using fertilizer at a ratio of 1:1:1 or 1:1:1.5 is fine

Remember to apply light fertilizer frequently; just add a little with each watering. There is no need for heavy fertilizer; its fertilizer requirement is smaller than that of other bulbs

Do not fertilize at sprouting; during rapid growth, mainly use nitrogen fertilizer; when buds appear, mainly use phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; do not fertilize during the flowering period; immediately after flowering begin nurturing the bulb, with the fertilizer ratio as stated above

5.pH

For Oriental lilies, soil that is slightly acidic (5.5-6) is best; peat itself is acidic enough

Other varieties have no special requirements

6. Temperature

Lilies are actually spring-planted bulbs: plant in spring, flower in summer, nurture in autumn, store in winter (for most regions of the country)

For the Guangdong and Guangxi regions, where summers are very hot and humid, as well as Hong Kong, China and Taiwan, China, you can consider cold storage in summer, planting in autumn, and viewing flowers in winter and spring

When rooting in spring, keep the temperature at around 12°C, which is most favorable for stem root growth

In summer, take care to protect against high-temperature damage; low temperatures can extend the flowering period. OT is very heat-tolerant, so it can bloom in the blazing sun, while Oriental lily flowers often wither rapidly when the sunlight is strongest

7. Dormancy

When winter temperatures are low (0-10°C) they will go dormant (leaves fall and stems turn yellow; at this point cut off the withered stems)

Asiatic and Oriental lilies generally need a cold period of at least 1.5-3 months (4-5°C) before they can begin the next year's growth

Lilies with Longiflorum (LO, LA, L) and Trumpet (T) genes can be planted year-round; there is no need to deliberately create a cold period, only winter temperatures below 20°C

Natural low temperature can be replaced by refrigeration at 4 degrees in a refrigerator

Heat-intolerant varieties may go dormant as soon as 1-2 months after flowering, but early dormancy is detrimental to building up the bulb for reblooming, and even less should you cut off the stems and leaves right after flowering finishes

Leaves dropping and going dormant early often means bulb rot or severely unfavorable conditions

8. How to plant

No need for a disinfecting soak

For basal roots (the old roots at the bottom of the bulb), keep as many as possible; heavily rotted parts can be cut off

There should be at least 5cm of soil above the top of the lily bulb, bulbs should be spaced 2-3cm or more apart, and the growing tip should lean slightly toward the pot wall rather than the center of the pot

9. Planting depth

Lilies have two layers of roots. The ones below the bulb are basal roots (which can remain functional for several years) and have weak absorption function; the bulbs you receive often have basal roots that are rotted and broken, so there is no need to worry

The base of a newly sprouted shoot produces several layers of dense, pure white roots called stem roots (annual), and these are the main force for absorbing nutrients, which is why the top of the bulb cannot be placed at the soil surface

Moderately deep planting helps avoid heat damage and build up the bulb

So the formula is drainage layer + 3-5cm bottom soil + bulb + 5-10cm cover soil, very simple, right~, with a pot height of at least 15cm

Water thoroughly for settling, then wait patiently, do not dig around, and enter normal care after the shoot breaks through the soil

As shown in the picture

Here is an updated beginner planting method, "adding soil in steps - different from the old method of adding all the soil at once"

I forgot to mention earlier

That is, when planting lilies for the first time, you can let the soil cover only the lily bulb first without adding more soil on top, and reserve 8-10cm of space above the soil surface for continuing to add soil. Water thoroughly, wait for the shoot to emerge from the top of the bulb, then gradually add soil to the normal depth (5-10cm from the top of the bulb to the soil surface)

The advantage is that it satisfies everyone's curious and impatient mindset, avoids the dilemma of being afraid the bulb will not sprout and wanting to dig it up but not daring to, and at the same time you can adjust the direction of the shoot when it grows, so that the shoot does not emerge crookedly from deep in the soil and look unattractive. The first watering is also easier to do thoroughly. (For reference only; this method will not interfere with stem root growth)

10. After flowering and dormancy

After opening, they can be cut for vase arrangements, generally fading in 5-7 days, or enjoyed directly on the plant. The cut length should not exceed 1/3 of the plant height (at least 2/3 should be left, and the more left the better, otherwise what will you use to build up the bulb?), and the stamens can be removed to prevent staining the petals

After flowering, remove spent flowers to prevent seed formation

Try not to force dormancy; following the lily's own rhythm is the best way to achieve good reblooming results and multiplication rate.

During dormancy, store in the original pot, with almost no watering; give a little water each month just to keep the peat slightly moist

In hot summer regions, the bulbs can be dug up in spring and put in the refrigerator, then planted in autumn

Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies will sprout new shoots around February-March of the following year when temperatures rise

Lilium leichtlinii may also sprout in autumn; let it grow and bloom naturally

IV. Garden cultivation

This is very simple

Planting depth is 15cm-20cm in the north, and shallower as appropriate in the south

Asiatic lilies can be planted throughout China

Oriental lilies can be planted in the ground with confidence except in South China and Northeast China

OT, LO, and LA can be planted in the ground south of Liaoning

Pure Lilium leichtlinii can be planted in the ground south of the Yellow River

In areas that are especially cold and without snow cover, branches, straw, compost, etc. can be used to cover 5cm; if there is snow, there is no need to fear they will freeze

Cold hardiness A > LA >> LO = OT > O >> L

A late spring cold snap may damage newly sprouted lilies, requiring some covering protection

Note to deep-dig the soil; heavy clay soil should be made into ridges, and more organic matter should be added to facilitate drainage (the key among keys). In hot, dry summers, water occasionally

V. Lily propagation methods

1. Bulb division

When the main bulb grows to a certain size, it naturally splits at the growing points into two to several conjoined bulbs (basically all of flowering size). This process starts after flowering and occurs every year, and is the simplest propagation method

The propagation speed mentioned when introducing varieties refers to the speed of bulb division

L=LA=A>LO=OT>>O

Oriental lilies may or may not divide each year, depending on cultivation and care; the first five types all divide very readily

When the number of divided bulbs is too large and the shoots are overcrowded, they can be separated by hand during winter dormancy; it is very simple and will not harm the bulbs

Asiatic lilies very likely send up multiple shoots in the first year; such bulbs often bloom poorly, but after one year of growing you will have several plants

The growing point divides in two, with the remains of that year's old stem in the middle

2. Stem bulbs

These are actually small daughter bulbs produced on the stem roots. Their number and quality are greatly related to the quality of the stem roots and how well they were cultivated that year, and they can reach flowering size after 1-3 years

They develop faster than bulbils, equivalent to starting from the second growth stage of bulbils (basal leaves --- stem --- flower)

Asiatic lilies, Lilium leichtlinii, LA, and LO are likewise outstanding at this type of propagation

Especially LA; the stem bulbs in the first year are very likely to reach flowering bulb size

The picture shows small bulbs around the stem roots

3. Bulbils

After Asiatic lilies and Lilium lancifolium bloom, especially after bud abortion, small bulbs are produced at the base of the leaves on the plant, called bulbils; when mature they often root and fall off

They develop in the soil, producing only one grass-like leaf in the first year, go dormant in winter, and in the second year grow daughter bulbs and clustered leaves

Then go dormant again, and in the third year send up a stem and bloom. Although slow, the quantity is large

When mature they are purple-black

4. Scales

Very similar to propagating Hippeastrum by cutting the bulb. Remove healthy scales (or scales that accidentally fell off), insert them obliquely in sterilized moist peat or vermiculite and refrigerate; after one month small bulbs can grow, which can be planted separately. The multiplication rate is large but slow

The development process is the same as for bulbils.

5. Seeds - not recommended

Not recommended unless you are an enthusiast. Aside from native species such as Lilium leichtlinii and Lilium regale which can be tried, most hybrids either have empty seed shells or grow slowly, and self-pollinated offspring will vary

6. Cuttings - not recommended

Only applicable to Taiwan lily (Lilium formosanum) hybrids, which can root

For LO and LA, if the cut flower stems are kept moist, they can grow small bulbils that can be separated and planted, but the stems themselves are difficult to root

It is basically useless for Oriental lilies and others, so cut flowers from flower shops cannot be planted

Lilies are monopodial monocots; once the apical bud is damaged, that year's reproductive growth (flowering) stops, so absolutely do not attempt topping or cuttings

VI. Common problems

Basically, growers' questions are concentrated in the first two items

1. Bulb rot - control watering well, better dry than wet

Caused by fungi, with waterlogging as the main trigger. By the time it is discovered it is often too late. If the basal plate is intact, the rotten scales can be peeled off and the bulb stored after disinfection

Symptoms vary: yellowing leaf edges, lower leaves dropping, plant wilting that does not improve with watering, blackened flower buds on OT, LO, LA, etc., obvious stagnation of growth, and so on are all very likely to be bulb rot

2. Bud abortion

Common in Asiatic lilies, caused by insufficient light (continuous overcast rain, being placed indoors). The phenomenon is that small flower buds turn from green to brown, then wither, and they will not bloom that year; continue to build up the bulb well. For lilies without Asiatic blood, the main cause of bud abortion is bulb rot.

3. Leaf burn

Strong fertilizer or unrotted fertilizer may damage the roots, causing severe scorching of leaf tips and withering of flower buds. At this point, flush the potting soil with plenty of water, and if necessary repot and change the soil. Oriental lilies are relatively prone to leaf burn; note that chloride ions and fluoride ions should be low in watering and fertilizing (phosphate fertilizers such as superphosphate contain more of them, use with caution)

4. Breakage

Handle the same as bud abortion, continue to build up the bulb. Lilies will not grow side branches; a broken apical bud means no flowering that year

5. Lower leaves yellowing and dropping

A common problem in lilies, especially severe in Oriental lilies and some Asiatic lilies; in LA, LO, and OT this phenomenon is not obvious. If not serious, it basically does not affect ornamental value and can serve as a reflection of the plant's health

5. Pests

Not common; occasionally scale insects, Japanese beetles, aphids, etc. attack, and snails may gnaw on flower buds. Pay attention to protection when planting in the ground

6. Gray mold

Common in greenhouses with especially high humidity, and during hot, rainy weather. Mold-like diseased spots appear on the leaves; spray with fungicide to eliminate them

7. Off-season sprouting

For especially robust varieties such as Lilium leichtlinii, new shoots may emerge in winter as dormancy approaches; let them grow

8. No sprouting

This is what beginners fear most. Fortunately, unless it is due to bulb rot or shoot rot, this situation is rare and is often because the bulb has not experienced enough cold to break dormancy

In this case, it can be placed in the refrigerator for treatment, and planted once there are signs of sprouting

9. Deformed shoots, double flowers

Often appear in cold-treated autumn bulbs and are related to overly long cold treatment; generally they do not affect planting

VII. Selection, purchase, and storage

Each year suppliers have spring groups and autumn groups

Spring is a good season to buy lilies; various places are taking pre-orders now, with shipping from February to April

The bulbs you buy are often fresh bulbs with very short shoots or no shoots

In autumn, cold-treated bulbs (to break dormancy for autumn flowering) and pre-rooted bulbs (providing suitable temperatures in summer for stem root growth) are offered, with shipping from August to September. There are fewer varieties. Recommended for indoor growing in the north and for the Guangdong-Guangxi region; when grown outdoors in the north they are often dried out by the north wind before they can bloom

When these bulbs arrive, the shoots are already very long and break easily, so never handle them roughly

Lily bulbs do not store well because they have no protective outer skin; once dehydrated they die

During winter dormancy they can be left in the original pot without being taken out; water once a month to keep the potting soil slightly moist

Those who must take them out of the pot can use a plastic bag filled with moist peat, bury the dug-up bulbs with stems removed inside, and store them in the refrigerator crisper (not the freezer!), then take them out to plant once dormancy is broken and they sprout

VIII. Other

Pot selection:

The bigger and deeper the pot the better, as long as drainage is smooth

For home use

For 14-16cm bulbs, an 18cm pot can hold three

For 16-18cm bulbs, a 20cm pot can hold three

You can also use a 15cm-18cm pot to plant a single one

This is the minimum for pot use; the pot diameter can be increased as appropriate. Do not use shallow pots, for the reasons already stated above

Bulb size:

14-16cm bulbs are mainly L, A, LA, and LO varieties

For Oriental lilies and OT, you generally need to buy 16-18cm bulbs to guarantee flower count

Bulb circumference is strongly related to flower count; generally flowering starts at 12-14cm, 18-20cm is exhibition grade, and Lilium leichtlinii and OT types can be grown to a circumference of 25cm

Plant height:

When first growing lilies, seeing data of 90, 100, 110, 120, or even 130cm seems terrifying

But that is the mature plant height reachable only after about two years of ground planting

The plant height in pots falls far short of the data values, and modern hybrids have very thick, sturdy stems, so even with large flowers and many flowers they will not lodge or break

(In the first year, potted plants are about 1/2 to 2/3 of the standard height)

Theoretically, strong light and moderately high temperatures make plant height shorter and flowering earlier, while weak light and low temperatures elongate the stem and delay flowering

Asiatic lilies take 70-90 days from planting to flowering, Oriental lilies 90-120 days, and the order for the remaining varieties starts with early A
Please learn to grow lilies in a relaxed, low-effort way

There are many lily-growing posts on forums now, but growers still treat them as too delicate: how to mix soil, how to disinfect, how to plant, how to water, shade or sun, all in exhaustive detail. Studying carefully is certainly good, but I think growing flowers should be a kind of leisure, concerned with a calm and tranquil state of mind, rather than being filled with anxiety and worry. What meaning is there in growing flowers that way?

When care is too meticulous, it is instead especially easy to become over-diligent, itching to dig them up and look every day, water them a little daily, and move them here and there, and the result is often that with too much water the roots rot and the flowers are gone.

In fact, under natural conditions, there is often a lack of water and fertilizer, pests and diseases run rampant, heavy rain pours down, and fierce winds blow, yet lilies still bloom and set seed year after year, growing and reproducing; if you ignore them, they can bloom very well.

★How to grow potted lilies

Growth habits: They like moisture and light, and require fertile sandy soil rich in humus, with a deep soil layer and extremely good drainage. Most varieties are suitable for growing in slightly acidic to neutral soil. Specifically, there are the following points:

Lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They avoid drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor.

The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Only above 10°C do plants grow normally. Above 25°C, growth stagnates again. If the winter nighttime temperature is below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be seriously affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.

They like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and most of all avoid hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.

How to grow potted lilies? Potted lily cultivation methods:

1. Cultivation time: Potted lilies are best planted in September-October.

2. Soil: The growing medium should preferably be prepared by mixing leaf mold, sandy soil, and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio. Apply sufficient fully decomposed compost and a small amount of bone meal at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.

The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulbs rot easily. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year, replacing the growing medium and base fertilizer.

3. Fertilizing: Lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements. Usually, applying fertilizer in moderation when spring growth begins and at the early flowering stage is enough. Some growers abroad believe that lilies need relatively more nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, and should be fertilized once every 10-15 days during the growing period, while phosphorus fertilizer should be limited, because too much phosphorus fertilizer can cause leaves to turn yellow.

During the flowering period, phosphorus fertilizer can be added for 1-2 days. To make the bulbs plump, remove faded flowers promptly after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. For watering, it is only necessary to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growing season and in dry weather, water appropriately and more frequently, and often sprinkle water around the flower pot to increase air humidity.

4. Temperature: The suitable temperature for lily growth is 12-18°C. In winter, even if the temperature drops to 3-5°C, they will not freeze to death.

5. Light: Lilies have the characteristics of cold resistance, love of light, tolerance of fertilizer, and fear of wetness. Lack of sunlight and long-term shading will affect normal flowering. However, they have broad regional adaptability and can be planted in the ground or in pots in both the north and south.

Because lilies are bulbous plants, they can also be planted directly from bulbs. They require deep planting to 6-7 cm so that lateral roots can penetrate deeply and absorb as many nutrients as possible. The growing medium should preferably be sandy loam, and clay and lime soil should not be used. If pond mud is used for planting, some river sand and crushed charcoal should also be mixed in appropriately, so that the growing medium is loose and airy and can flower on time.

In addition, during the growing period of lilies, the flower pot should be turned once a week. Otherwise, the plant tends to grow lopsided, affecting its appearance.

★Lily cultivation methods

Lilies are undoubtedly flowers that many flower lovers greatly enjoy. Many flower lovers want to grow them at home to beautify their rooms, but they do not know how to grow lilies. Here is a brief introduction:

Lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They avoid drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for growth and flowering is 16-24°C. If the winter nighttime temperature is below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be seriously affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers. Lilies like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and most of all avoid hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best. Lily propagation includes methods such as bulb division, scale cutting, seed propagation, and tissue culture.

I. Growth habits of lilies

Lilies are bulbous flowers belonging to the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. They like an environment with ample sunlight and are long-day plants. Day length not only affects flower bud differentiation but also affects flower growth and development. Lilies do not like high temperatures and prefer a cool, humid climate. The optimum growth temperatures are 20-25°C during the day for Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies, 25-28°C for Lilium longiflorum, and above 14°C at night. Temperatures above 30°C seriously affect lily growth and development, causing bud abortion and a marked decrease in flowering rate, while below 10°C growth nearly stagnates.

II. Soil requirements for lilies

Lilies require soil that is best as sandy loam rich in humus, deep and loose, able to maintain appropriate moisture while draining well. Clay must absolutely not be used to grow lilies.

Lilies like slightly acidic soil. The suitable soil pH for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum is 6-7, and the suitable soil pH for Oriental lilies is 5.5-6.5. Lilies are generally not salt-tolerant, and the content of fluorine and chlorine in the soil is both required to be below 50 mg/L, with total soil salinity not exceeding 1.5 ms/cm.

III. Preparatory work before planting

1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, the soil must be disinfected. Commonly used disinfection methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Steam disinfection is rarely used at present because it consumes a lot of energy and is troublesome to operate. Chemical disinfection uses

40% formalin prepared into a 1:50 or 1:100 solution and sprinkled onto the soil at a rate of 2.5 kg/sq m. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, then uncover and air for 10-15 days before planting, or use 8-10 g/sq m of carbendazim technical powder scattered into the soil for disinfection.

2. Thawing and disinfection of bulbs: After the bulbs arrive, open the packaging immediately and place them in a 10-15°C environment to thaw. After they are completely thawed, disinfect them. Disinfection method: Soak the bulbs in a 1/1000 aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, potassium permanganate, etc. for 30 minutes, or soak the bulbs in an 80-fold 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes. After removal, rinse off the residual solution on the bulbs with clean water, then dry them in a cool place before planting. At some domestic planting bases, before planting, the original basal roots are cut off, which helps promote new basal roots.

3. Storage of bulbs: If thawed bulbs cannot all be planted immediately, they must not be frozen again, otherwise there is a risk of freezing damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for no more than two weeks; they can also be stored at 2-5°C for no more than one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened at the same time.

IV. Planting depth and density

For planting in spring and summer, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10 cm from the soil surface, and in winter 6-8 cm. Planting density varies depending on the variety, bulb size, and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, they can be planted more densely; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, they should be planted more sparsely.

The planting densities for different groups and sizes of lily bulbs (expressed as the number of bulbs per square meter) are listed below for everyone's reference:

V. Management after planting

1. Temperature: To obtain high-quality lily cut flowers, temperature control in the greenhouse is very important. Within 3-4 weeks after planting, the soil temperature must be kept at a low temperature of 9-13°C to promote rooting. Too low a temperature will unnecessarily prolong the growth period, while a temperature above 15°C will lead to poor development of stem roots. These stem roots will soon replace the basal roots in providing 90% of the plant's water and nutrients, so to obtain high-quality lilies, the development of stem roots is crucial. After the rooting period, the environmental temperature for Oriental lilies should be controlled at 15-25°C, and for Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum at 14-23°C. If the daytime temperature is too high, ventilation and shading should be used to lower the temperature; if the nighttime temperature reaches 15-25°C, lily cut flower stems will be short, flower buds few, and quality reduced. At this time (domestically some growers) use a gibberellin solution sprayed on the plants to increase stem length; the specific amount varies with different growth stages and different environmental temperatures, generally less in the early growth stage and more later. Domestic solar greenhouses in winter generally prolong the lily growth period and seriously affect cut flower quality, so means of temperature regulation should be increased.

2. Humidity: The soil moisture before planting should be such that it forms a ball when squeezed in the hand and falls apart when dropped. In hotter seasons, if conditions permit, water once with cold water before planting to lower the soil temperature. After planting, water once again so that the soil and bulbs are fully in contact, creating good conditions for stem root development. Subsequent watering should be based on keeping the soil moist, that is, a handful of soil squeezed in the hand forms a ball but no water comes out. Watering is generally done in the morning on sunny days. The relative humidity should preferably be 80%-85%, and large fluctuations in relative humidity should be avoided, otherwise leaf scorch may occur.

3. Fertilizer: In the early stage of growth, flowering lily bulbs mainly consume the nutrients stored in their own scales, so excessive base fertilizer is not needed before planting. One month after planting, some fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing depending on soil fertility. Lilies have a very high demand for potassium, and a compound fertilizer can be prepared in the ratio N-

P2O5-K2O=14:7:21. Apply 10 kg per mu each time, once every 10-15 days, until 3 weeks before flower harvest. At the same time, attention should also be paid to supplementing trace elements such as iron, boron, and zinc.

4. Light: Light is an important condition for quality control, and lily flower bud development especially requires sufficient light. Insufficient light causes poor plant growth and causes lily bud drop, paler leaf color and flower color, and shortened vase life. When growing lilies in winter in northern China, due to the influence of glass or plastic film and other insulation materials, about 25-30% of sunlight is blocked, so in addition to keeping the surface of glass and plastic film clean to allow good light transmission, some varieties also need supplemental lighting, which can use incandescent lamps. In good modern greenhouses, horticultural high-pressure sodium lamps should be used. Summer lily production should also avoid direct strong sunlight, generally using shade nets for shading. Asiatic lilies and Lilium longiflorum are shaded 40%, and Oriental lilies 50%.

5. Carbon dioxide: Carbon dioxide is beneficial to lily growth and flowering. On sunny days from 8-10 a.m., in an unventilated shed, apply carbon dioxide gas pellets to increase the carbon dioxide content in the shed. Other methods can also be used, for example: hang one plastic bucket every 15-20 m (the height from the bucket to the ground is 1 m), fill the bucket with 20% sodium bicarbonate solution (the baking soda commonly used at home is sodium bicarbonate), then gradually pour the prepared 10% dilute sulfuric acid solution into each plastic bucket in 3-4 portions. Sodium bicarbonate reacts with sulfuric acid to produce carbon dioxide gas. A solar greenhouse 60 m long and 7 m wide requires 1.7 kg of pure sodium bicarbonate and 1 kg of concentrated sulfuric acid (concentration 98%).

VI. Harvesting and storage of lily cut flowers

1. Harvesting: Harvest after at least 2-3 flower buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color, making the flowers look pale and unattractive, and some buds will not open. Harvesting too late makes post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, the petals are soiled by pollen, and flowers that have already opened release ethylene, greatly shortening the vase life of the flowers.

2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle. A grade interval of 10 cm is appropriate. For lilies tied in one bunch, the longest stem and the shortest stem should preferably differ by no more than 5 cm, with the flower tops aligned.

3. Storage: After bundling, lilies should immediately be placed in clean, pre-cooled water, then placed in a cold storage room. The temperature of the water and the cold storage room should preferably be 2-3°C.

VII. Common pests and diseases of lilies and their control methods

1. Lily fungal diseases

(1) Blue mold

Symptoms: During storage, white spots grow on the rotting spots on the scales, and then fuzzy green-blue patches grow. After infection, even at a low temperature of -2°C, rotting will gradually increase. The pathogen will eventually invade the basal plate of the bulb, making the bulb worthless or causing the plant to grow slowly. Although infected bulbs look unhealthy, as long as the basal plate of the bulb is intact, plant growth during planting will not be affected. After planting, the infection will not transfer to the stem, nor infect the plant from the soil.

Control: Store the bulbs at the recommended minimum temperature; do not plant bulbs whose basal plates have already been damaged. Diseased bulbs must be soaked for 30 minutes in a 1/1000 aqueous solution of fungicides such as captan, chlorothalonil, or carbendazim before planting, and then planted. After planting, maintain an appropriate soil temperature.

(2) Bulb and scale rot and stem disease caused by Fusarium

Symptoms: Plants with bulb and scale rot grow very slowly, and the leaves are pale green. Underground, brown spots appear at the top of the scales, on the sides, or where the scales join the basal plate. These spots gradually begin to rot. If the basal plate stem is infected, the entire bulb will rot. The stem disease caused by Fusarium is a disease that infects the aboveground parts. The distinguishing sign is that the basal leaves turn yellow before maturity, and the yellowed leaves turn brown and fall off. On the underground part of the stem, orange to dark brown spots appear, and later the lesions expand and finally extend into the interior of the stem. Afterward the stem rots, and finally the plant dies before maturity:

Control: a. Disinfect infected soil; b. Plant lightly or moderately infected bulbs as quickly as possible, and the soil temperature should be low.

(3) Rhizoctonia

Symptoms: If the infection is mild, it only harms the leaves in the soil and the green leaves below the young shoots, and sunken light brown spots appear on the leaves. Generally speaking, although plant growth is somewhat affected, the plant can still continue to grow. In severely infected plants, the upper growth is hindered, and the white leaves underground and the lowermost leaves aboveground will rot or wilt and fall off, leaving only brown scars on the stem:

Control: Disinfect soil suspected of infection with a soil disinfectant. After disinfection, it must be ensured that the soil is no longer infected. If the previous crop has already shown infection, general soil disinfectants cannot be used, so before planting, pretreat the soil with a chemical for controlling Rhizoctonia (fully incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 cm).

(4) Phytophthora

Symptoms: Foot rot of the plant (Phytophthora) hinders growth or causes sudden wilting. Soft rot occurs at the infected area at the base of the stem, becoming dark green to dark brown and extending upward, the leaves turn yellow, and discoloration begins at the base of the stem. Similar soft rot infections often also occur on the aboveground stem, causing stem damping-off or bending.

Control: Disinfect infected soil with a general soil disinfectant; during cultivation, fungicides that control Pythium can also effectively control foot rot; ensure the soil has good drainage conditions; prevent the crop from remaining wet for a long time after watering; and in summer keep the soil temperature as low as possible.

(5) Pythium

Symptoms: This type of fungus attacks both individual plants and plants within an area. Plants are stunted, lower leaves turn yellow, upper leaves become narrower, leaf color is paler, and they often wilt. In plants affected by root rot, flower buds shrivel. When the plant is pulled up, transparent, light brown rotting spots can be seen on the bulb and root crown, or they become completely soft and rotten.

Control: Disinfect infected or suspected infected soil with a general soil disinfectant; keep the soil temperature low in the early cultivation period, and adopt correct cultivation procedures throughout the cultivation period. Cultivation in boxes containing potting soil and peat can keep Pythium under control.

After the crop has emerged, or in cases where Pythium infection may have occurred, fungicides for controlling Pythium that are easy to spray onto the crop can be used, preferably in the evening. Spraying water for a few minutes (about three minutes) before applying the chemical will significantly enhance the effect of the fungicide, and can also rinse the crop clean.

2. Abnormal phenomena

(1) Leaf scorch

Symptoms: First, young leaves curl slightly inward, and after a few days, yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves. If leaf scorch is mild, the plant can still continue to grow normally, but if leaf scorch is very severe, the white spots can turn brown, and at the site of injury the leaves bend. In very severe cases, all leaves and young shoots will fall off, and the plant will not develop further. This is called the most severe scorch. Control: The soil should be moist before planting; it is best not to use susceptible varieties; the planting depth should be appropriate, with 6-10 cm of soil above the bulb; during periods of increased sensitivity, avoid large differences in temperature and relative humidity in the greenhouse, and try to keep relative humidity at about 75%.

(2) Bud drop and bud shriveling

Symptoms: Bud drop occurs when flower buds grow to 1-2 cm. The color of the bud turns pale green, and at the same time, the pedicel connecting it to the stem shortens, after which the bud falls off. In spring, the lower buds are affected first, while in autumn, the upper buds fall off first.

Control: Do not cultivate varieties prone to bud drop in poorly lit environments. To prevent bud shriveling, the bulbs must not dry out during cultivation. Ensure the bulbs have a good root system and let them grow under conditions as suitable as possible, paying particular attention to light and transpiration.

★How should potted lilies be grown

How potted lilies should be grown is what many flower lovers who want to grow lilies themselves want to know. Many articles online are very theoretical, leaving flower lovers unsure. So let us explain in detail how to grow potted lilies using an actual case.

First, a brief introduction: Lilies are perennial herbaceous bulbous plants of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae, mainly distributed in temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere such as eastern Asia, Europe, and North America. More than a hundred varieties have been discovered worldwide. China is its most important place of origin, with more than fifty native species, and is the natural distribution center of Lilium plants.

I. The materials needed for planting lilies are as follows:

1. Soil Lilies are not very strict about soil, as long as it does not accumulate water. General garden soil is also suitable. Of course, nutrient soil is even better, and for those who are particular, peat is also fine.

2. Pot This needs attention. Lily roots are relatively developed, so a relatively deep and large pot is suitable. Small pots are not suitable! In the case below, a 2-gallon pot is used.

3. Location selection Some flower lovers may ask whether a balcony at home with no light is okay, or say they plan to grow them on a rooftop terrace. Here it should be said that lilies like cool, humid environments; places with ample sunlight and slightly shaded environments are more suitable for lilies. They avoid drought and extreme heat, and their cold tolerance is somewhat poor. The temperature for lily growth and flowering is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Only above 10°C do plants grow normally. Above 25°C, growth stagnates again. If the winter nighttime temperature is below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and flower bud development will be seriously affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.

II. First, feast your eyes

The bulbs in the picture below are lily bulbs just received a few days ago. They look pretty good, right! A total of five were obtained, and they will not all be posted one by one. Hundreds of flower lovers in the forum joined the group buy!

III. Planting process

First: I planned to divide my 5 bulbs between 2 flower pots. I first checked the colors of the bulbs. There are 2 Siberia (this is because another variety was detained by customs and these were substituted), white, Malone is pink, Yelloween is yellow, and Tiber is also pink. I planned to plant Siberia and Malone in white flower pots, and the other three in a 2+ pot, so they can look spectacular when blooming.

Second: First clean the flower pot thoroughly, lay breathable coarse coal cinder at the bottom, and cover with soil on top.

Third: Sprinkle some phosphorus fertilizer on the soil (bone meal can also be used as a substitute). If there is no bone meal, chicken manure can also be used as a substitute to ensure nutrition for flowering.

Fourth: Cover with soil again. After covering with soil, sprinkle carbendazim (I carefully checked the root bulbs and found no mold. Flower lovers who received diseased root bulbs can soak the root bulbs in carbendazim before planting).

Fifth: Cover with soil again and place the root bulbs in. You can use scissors to cut off the roots that have already dried out, then cover with soil. Generally, it can be level with the upper buds of the root bulbs. Leave some distance between the soil surface and the rim of the pot for future filling with soil. This depth is not enough.

Sixth: Water thoroughly, then place in a cool, open-air place.

IV. Answers to questions during the planting process

Overall, lilies are very easy to grow. As long as the bulbs are bought correctly, the flowering and survival rate is almost 100%. The growing period generally ranges from about 90-150 days depending on the variety.

1. How many lilies can be planted in one pot

It depends on the size of the pot. For a 2-gallon pot with a diameter of about 25 cm, planting 1-3 is acceptable!

2. Can lilies rebloom

Whether lilies rebloom relatively speaking mainly depends on the first year of planting. If planting in the first year is good, reblooming in the second year is no problem.

3. Are lilies very fragrant

Different lily varieties have different concentrations of fragrance. Whether a specific one is fragrant can be determined according to the variety description at the time of purchase.

★Lily cultivation techniques

Authors: Zhu Yunyi, Yang Ming

Lily is a bulbous herbaceous plant of the genus Lilium in the family Liliaceae. Lily stems are upright and graceful, the leaves are emerald green, the flower shapes are unique, the flowers are large and brightly colored, and the colors are elegant. Lilies carry the meaning of a hundred years of harmony, are very lovable, and are one of the bulbous flowers widely cultivated at home and abroad at present. The domestic introduction and cultivation of lilies are gradually expanding, and market sales are increasingly active.

I. Morphological characteristics

Lily is a perennial herbaceous plant. The bulb is a non-tunicate bulb, spherical, pale white, formed by the aggregation of several fleshy, thick, ovate-spatulate scales; the stem is upright, with stem roots at the underground stem nodes, the stem is cylindrical or rhombic, the aboveground stem is upright and robust, green and smooth, the stem diameter is 3-10 mm, and the plant height is 70-200 cm; the leaves are scattered or alternate, sessile, lanceolate to elliptic-lanceolate, entire, with a total of more than 100 leaves; the flowers are solitary in several leaf axils at the top of the stem, with 1-10 flowers, large, trumpet-shaped, with different flower colors and fragrances depending on the variety.

II. Requirements for environmental conditions

1. Temperature. Lilies like warm environments with ample sunlight, are relatively cold-tolerant, and fear high temperatures, strong light, and high humidity. The optimum growth temperature for lilies is 15-25°C. Below 10°C, growth is slow, and above 30°C, growth is poor and leaf burn occurs. During growth, the best temperatures are 21-23°C during the day and 15-17°C at night. However, bulbs have a dormant period and must be stored at a low temperature of 3-7°C for 4-6 weeks to break bulb dormancy, so that planting can germinate.

2. Light. Lilies like soft light, and are also tolerant of strong light and semi-shade. Insufficient light causes flower buds to fall off. With sufficient light, plants are robust, shorter, and the flowers are vivid. Lilies are long-day plants; long light promotes earlier flowering, while short light delays flowering.

3. Water. When planting lily bulbs, the furrow should be filled 3/4 with water so that the water fully penetrates the bed surface. Later, when water is lacking, irrigate by letting water run through. Just keep the soil moist for a long time. This can increase the emergence rate of bulbs, make emergence neat, and benefit stem and leaf growth.

4. Nutrients. Lilies are bulbous cut flower plants and like phosphorus and potassium, while avoiding excess nitrogen. Sufficient phosphorus and potassium help improve flower quality and the formation and plumpness of bulbs. Excess nitrogen is unfavorable for flower and bulb formation, and flower quality is poor and weak. Fertilization should mainly use organic fertilizer, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement.

III. Cultivation techniques

1. Reasonably arrange the planting period. At present, lilies are planted in Hunan, Sichuan, Henan, Jiangsu, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Zhejiang, Guangdong, and other places in China. We should make full use of the unique winter climate conditions in the south, and arrange the harvest period from late December to May 1, trying to avoid competing for the market with lilies grown in other provinces, striving to sell at a good price and obtain greater income and better economic benefits. Lilies generally take 80-130 days from planting to harvest and market. Early planting (such as before the Autumn Equinox) means high temperatures, long sunshine, and strong light, shortening the time from planting to harvest; late planting (such as after Cold Dew) means low temperatures, short sunshine, and weak light, prolonging the time from planting to harvest. If they are to be marketed at Christmas, they should be planted in mid-to-late September; if for the Spring Festival, they should be planted in mid-to-late October.

2. Select land, finely prepare the soil, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Choose plots with deep soil layers, loose and fertile soil, high and resistant terrain, and good drainage for planting. Planting lilies in plots with half shade and half sun and slightly acidic soil is even better. Lilies should not be continuously cropped, and fields where previous crops such as peppers and eggplants were grown should not be chosen; leguminous or grass crops are better.

3. Build frames and cover with shade nets for shading. In order to meet the light, temperature, and humidity requirements of lilies during growth, lilies like soft light (semi-shade) and fear high temperatures and strong light. After preparing the land and making the beds, frames should be built and shade nets covered before the bulbs emerge. Shade nets with a shading degree of 70-80% are best. For planting from April to August, an additional layer of shade net should be added to lower the field temperature and light intensity, increase field humidity, avoid or reduce damage to plant leaves from high temperatures and strong light, and promote plant and leaf growth. But when the maximum daytime temperature drops to 26°C (generally in early December), the shade net should be uncovered to increase light intensity and promote plant and leaf growth. When the average temperature is below 10°C, nylon film should again be covered to increase temperature and preserve moisture, ensuring normal lily growth and flowering and harvest as expected.

4. Reasonable close planting. Because lilies tolerate semi-shade, on the basis of applying sufficient base fertilizer, they can be planted more densely. Generally, 12,000-18,000 bulbs can be planted per mu, with a plant-row spacing of 15-20 x 10-15 cm. The planting depth of bulbs is 10 cm (at least the height of 3 bulbs) to prevent sunlight from burning the root system. After planting, spray butachlor immediately to control early weeds in the field.

5. Field management. After full emergence, before the seedlings grow to 20 cm, in combination with intertillage and weeding, apply 500 kg of human and animal manure and 10 kg of superphosphate per mu as a top dressing, or apply 10-15 kg of high-quality compound fertilizer (containing 15% each of nitrogen, P2O5, and K2O) plus 5 kg of urea. The concentration of fertilizer solution should be dilute rather than concentrated. Too high a concentration easily damages roots and inhibits growth. It should be applied frequently and lightly, once every 8-10 days. When applying top dressing, avoid the fertilizer liquid directly contacting the bulbs and plant stems, to prevent rot of bulbs and stems. If the fertilizer liquid is splashed onto the plant leaves, then immediately after applying the fertilizer liquid, spray clean water to wash off the fertilizer liquid on the leaves, so as not to damage the leaves and plants. However, when the winter temperature drops below 8°C, fertilization should stop and be resumed when the temperature rises again. After lily emergence, deep tillage and weeding should no longer be carried out, so as not to damage the root system. Weeds should be pulled as soon as they appear to prevent weed damage.

6. Water management. Because lilies like moisture, fear waterlogging, and avoid drought, ditches should often be cleared to drain accumulated water on rainy days, and irrigation should be done in drought to maintain moisture, ensuring that after people walk into the furrow pits footprints remain (but feet do not sink), the surface soil of the bed does not show white, the surface soil between beds forms a ball when grasped by hand, and when released from a height of one meter above the ground the mud ball disperses upon landing.

7. Timely control of pests and diseases. Lilies have relatively few pests and diseases. The main diseases are anthracnose, gray mold, damping-off, root rot, and bulb rot. Anthracnose can be controlled with chlorothalonil, Score, Rovral, anthracnose thiram, etc.; gray mold can be controlled with mancozeb, Sumilex, 50% iprodione, chlorothalonil, or 1% Bordeaux mixture; for damping-off, first remove diseased plants, then control with 1% Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, Tuzet, etc.; for root rot and bulb rot, before planting mix seeds with 0.5% quintozene to prevent disease occurrence, and in the early stage of disease, drench or spray with 50% amobam 300-500 times solution. For disease control in lilies, spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. The main insect pests are aphids and white grubs. Aphids and white grubs often gather on tender leaves and flower buds to suck sap, causing plants to shrivel and grow poorly. They can be controlled with fenvalerate, omethoate, imidacloprid, Dagongshen, etc. When controlling pests and diseases, it is best to add some foliar fertilizer, which both controls pests and diseases and promotes plant and leaf growth.

8. Harvest bulbs at the right time. When the underground bulbs expand, are plump and full, and the aboveground plant leaves turn yellow or even dry up and fall off, the bulbs can be harvested. Keep the root system on the harvested bulbs, remove all loose soil, stack them by grade, and later pack them into cold storage for low-temperature treatment.

★Cultivation techniques for Oriental lilies

With the improvement of people's living standards, the sales volume of fresh flowers is increasing day by day. In 2007, we introduced Oriental lilies in small batches for cultivation and achieved success. The cultivation techniques are now introduced as follows:

1 Soil preparation

Deeply plow the soil 30 cm, apply 2-3 m3 of peat or decomposed fallen pine needles, 3-5 kg of ferrous sulfate, and 500-1000 kg of organic fertilizer such as expanded chicken manure per 667 sq m, so that the soil pH is slightly acidic at 6-6.5; and add 1.5-2.5 kg of thiram or 2000-3000 ml of soil fungicide for disinfection.

2 Bed making

Make raised beds 20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide, leaving a 40 cm path between two beds, with the length depending on the land.

3 Planting

The planting time should be determined by two indicators: the flower supply time and the growth cycle of the variety. Bulbs whose dormancy period has passed must be used. The dormancy period varies by variety. Generally, after the leaves turn yellow and the bulbs are lifted, they can break dormancy in 80-120 days in an environment of 0-4°C. For bulb disinfection, mix seeds with 5-10 g/kg of carbendazim, or soak the seeds in a 2% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 10 minutes before planting. When planting, first push aside about 8 cm of the soil layer on the bed surface to one side, then use a nail board or tree root cut to the measured size to make holes at set distances. Generally, for medium-sized bulbs, the density in spring and autumn is 13 cm x 13 cm; for large bulbs increase by 1 cm, and for small bulbs decrease by 1 cm. The spacing is slightly larger in winter and denser in summer. Generally, about 20,000 bulbs are planted per 667 sq m. After making the holes, place the bulbs on the holes, then fill back the bed soil that was pushed aside, and rake level.

4 Water management

After planting, water thoroughly with drip irrigation or sprinkler irrigation; unless it is summer, flood irrigation is prohibited. Afterwards, water the seedbed whenever it looks dry, watering until it connects with the moist soil in the lower layer. Avoid waterlogging to prevent root rot. In extremely dry weather, spray water on the leaves to maintain a relative air humidity of around 70%.

5 Temperature management

From planting the bulbs to emergence takes 20-30 days. During this period, a temperature of around 12°C is suitable to promote rooting. After emergence, raise the temperature, otherwise the plants are prone to infection by various diseases. Therefore, in winter production, use oil-fired furnaces or small boilers for heating, and in summer, use shade nets or cover the ground with grass to lower the temperature.

6 Light management

When planting lilies in winter, try to choose day-neutral lilies rather than long-day lilies, while in spring, summer and autumn, long-day varieties are also acceptable. Lilies prefer light and are not tolerant of shade; supplementary lighting in winter gives better growth. If not providing supplementary light, open the straw curtains as early as possible and close them late to extend the light duration. In summer, if a shade net with 30% shading can be used to block part of the strong light, it helps lilies grow faster and produce larger flowers.

7 Nutrition management

Start topdressing after the young seedlings grow stems and their leaves unfold. Apply chemical fertilizer once every 10-15 days, mixing and applying 4-5 kg each of diammonium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 667 sq m. When the plants are 60 cm tall, spray 2%-3% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves every 7-10 days. If the leaves turn yellow overall, spray 0.5% urea; if the small leaves turn yellow, spray 0.1% ferrous sulfate, along with trace fertilizers such as copper and zinc. When the flower buds are 6 cm long, stop topdressing.

8 Pest and disease control

The main diseases of lilies are black spot, gray mold and rust, which can be controlled by spraying 500 times diluted 25% carbendazim wettable powder; pests include white grubs and aphids, which can be controlled by spraying 1000 times diluted 25% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate.

★Open-field cultivation techniques for lilies

Open-field cultivation is also a commonly used production method for cut-flower lilies. It has the advantages of low production cost and simple cultivation management, but its disadvantages are also obvious: the flowering period is not easy to control, and low product quality are the main factors affecting open-field production of cut-flower lilies.

1. Land selection

For open-field cultivation of lilies, choose land with high, well-drained terrain, good drainage and loose soil. High-altitude cool mountainous areas, or areas beside lakes and rivers and peninsulas, are ideal locations for growing lilies. Northwest Yunnan Province, Xichang in Sichuan, the Qinba Mountains in Shaanxi, Anshan in Liaoning, and Lanzhou in Gansu in China can all serve as bases for open-field production of cut-flower lilies.

Soil improvement

Generally speaking, the soil used for producing lilies does not occupy as vast an area as that for grain crops. If the soil texture is unsuitable, partial soil replacement can be used to create a suitable soil environment. When carrying out partial soil replacement for a lily plot, first dig out the original soil from the rows where lilies are to be planted, and add soft, good soil medium. So-called soil medium refers to artificially prepared materials that replace soil. Commonly used soil media include pine needle soil, peat, fermented wood chips, vermiculite, perlite, etc. Mix these materials with soil in a certain proportion and fill them into the planting furrows for lilies, then plant the lilies. In addition, attention should also be paid to measuring the soil pH of the cultivation site.

How to improve soil pH: 6 weeks before planting, take soil samples for analysis, measuring salt and oxide content, pH and nutrient content. If the salt content and chlorine content exceed the standard, a large amount of irrigation water must be used to dilute the salts in the soil. Maintaining the correct pH helps the lily root system absorb nutrients from the soil. Applying peat mixed with topsoil can lower pH, and using ammonium fertilizer and urea can also lower pH. In addition, mixing a small amount of sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate into the soil can also help lower soil pH. If the soil pH is too low, mix lime-containing compounds or magnesium-containing lime with the soil before planting. After using lime, at least 1 week must pass before planting. During the growth stage, it is best to use nitrate nitrogen fertilizer, which can raise pH.

2. Crop rotation

In order to prevent the massive occurrence of lily pests and diseases, crop rotation should be practiced. Before planting, unified planning should be made for the land, and every plot planted with cut-flower lilies should be rotated every year. During rotation, the previous crop should not be bulb flowers of the Liliaceae or Amaryllidaceae families; planting leguminous plants is most suitable.

Base fertilizer

The fertilizer applied before planting lilies is base fertilizer, generally organic fertilizer with long-lasting fertility. There are two ways to prepare base fertilizer: one is to mix 1/3 of various humus fertilizers (organic fertilizer made by mixing decomposed leaf mold, compost, peat, cake fertilizer, etc.) into the soil to form a 30 cm deep furrow, first spread the above mixed soil in the furrow, and then plant the lilies. Lilies planted in this mixed soil generally grow better. The mixed soil not only improves the soil but also achieves the purpose of applying base fertilizer.

3. Planting

Planting period: open-field cultivated lilies are mostly planted in autumn, while cold areas use spring planting.

Taking the climatic conditions of Beijing as an example, the lowest temperature in January in winter is generally 8-15°C, and most cut-flower lilies can overwinter in the open field. Summer is relatively hot, and the highest temperature in July can reach 33-36°C. Therefore, lilies are in a semi-dormant period during this time. According to the climatic characteristics of Beijing, lilies can be planted in autumn or spring. Autumn planting is generally carried out in September-October when the temperature drops noticeably. Autumn-planted lilies develop a good root system, grow robustly, and produce more flowers the following year. Spring planting is generally carried out in March-April when the temperature begins to rise. They sprout in April-May and bolt and form buds in May-June. From mid-June to the end of July is the peak flowering season for open-field cut-flower lilies.

The flowering period of autumn-planted lilies and spring-planted lilies differs little, but the stem height and flower number of spring-planted lilies are inferior to those of autumn-planted lilies.

Topdressing

For open-field cultivated lilies, topdressing should be carried out in the early growth stage, late growth stage and bud stage respectively. In the early growth stage, apply 37.5 kg of diammonium phosphate and 75 kg of urea per hectare; in the late growth stage, apply 75 kg of diammonium phosphate and 22.5 kg of monopotassium phosphate per hectare. The fertilization method is to dissolve the above fertilizers in water and irrigate. In the bud stage, apply 22.5 kg of potassium sulfate, 30 kg of monopotassium phosphate and 0.3 kg of boric acid per hectare, sprayed on the leaves at 0.1%.

Irrigation

Open-field cultivated lilies can obtain part of their water from natural rainfall, but because it is often not timely, it is far from enough to meet the needs of normal plant growth and development, especially in dry seasons, when timely irrigation is even more important. For open-field cultivated lilies, methods such as flood irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation can be chosen according to local conditions. Flood irrigation is to introduce water directly onto the bed surface, causing soil compaction. Sprinkler irrigation distributes water evenly and can increase air humidity. Drip irrigation uses a low-pressure pipeline system to make irrigation water drip slowly and continuously infiltrate the soil within the range of plant root activity. Modern cut-flower cultivation often combines sprinkler irrigation and drip irrigation: sprinkler irrigation creates a suitable air humidity environment for plant growth, while drip irrigation supplies the water needed for plant root activity. The amount, frequency and timing of irrigation often vary with season, soil quality and cultivated variety. As for the amount of water per irrigation, the principle should be thorough and moderate watering. In summer, temperatures are high and evaporation is great, so irrigation frequency should be higher; in autumn and early [season], water demand is low, so watering should be minimized, and one freezing-water irrigation should be given before the soil freezes. Clay soil should be irrigated less frequently, while sandy soil should be irrigated more frequently. During the day, in summer, irrigation should be done in the morning and evening, when the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is small, so as not to affect root activity.

4. Intertillage and weeding

Open-field cultivated lilies often have soil that easily compacts after rainfall or watering, which is unfavorable for root growth. In addition, because weeds have strong reproductive ability, they grow together with lily plants and compete for water, nutrients, sunlight and space, and can also lead to pest and disease occurrence in lily plants. Therefore, timely intertillage and weeding must be carried out to create a good living environment for lily plant growth.

Intertillage should be carried out in combination with loosening the soil after irrigation. The depth of intertillage should be: shallow hoeing at the seedling stage to prevent root damage; shallow hoeing near the plants, and deep hoeing in the rows away from the plants. When lilies grow luxuriantly and the field rows close, there is no need to loosen the soil further.

Weeding should be carried out as early as possible at the initial stage of weed occurrence, and weeds must be completely removed before they set seed. As for weeding methods, manual weeding is mainly used for small areas, while mechanical weeding or chemical weeding can be used for large areas.

5. Netting and staking

Open-field cultivated lilies are often vulnerable to adverse weather such as wind, rain and hail, so netting and staking must be done in time to prevent plants from lodging.

6. Topdressing

Lily is a potassium-loving crop. According to nutrient analysis of Yixing lily plants at various growth stages, K2O content was the highest in all cases. The average content in aboveground stems and leaves at various growth stages was 3.76%, which is 5.55 times the K2O5 content and 1.59 times the N content. The average K2O content in underground bulbs at various growth stages was 2.16%, which is 4.48 times the K20 content and 1.59 times the N content. The seedling stage is the period of highest K2O content among all growth stages, with 4.70% in stems and leaves and 2.88% in bulbs. As for the proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in lily plants at various growth stages, the period of highest K2O proportion in both aboveground stems and leaves and bulbs is the middle and late growth stages of lilies. That is, at the bulbils harvest stage and full flowering stage (the stage when aboveground stems and leaves begin to decline), the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in aboveground stems and leaves were 1:0.20:1.98 and 1:0.22:2.22 respectively; the ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in bulbs were 1:0.41:1.79 and 1:0.34:1.66. Traditional cultivation of Yixing lily uses straw mulching and application of organic fertilizers such as pig manure and cake fertilizer, which can supply large amounts of potassium. Generally, about 450 kg of dry straw is spread per mu. Experiments have shown that without straw mulching, yield decreases by 14.48%. Applying more potassium fertilizer to lilies can promote root development during overwintering and seedling-stage growth, and meet the potassium peak demand of lily plants in the middle and late stages. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transport of carbohydrates in crops. When potassium supply is sufficient, the content of lignin, cellulose and starch in lily plants increases, and the carbohydrates formed by photosynthesis are quickly transported to the bulbs, promoting bulb enlargement. Experiments show that applying 15 kg, 10 kg of potassium sulfate and 75 kg of plant ash per mu generally increases yield by 10% compared with the control. Among them, plant ash gave the highest yield. Applying potassium fertilizer in potassium-deficient fields increases yield even more significantly, with the highest increase reaching 54.29%, and each kilogram of potassium sulfate can increase lily yield by 32.76 kg. At the same time as lilies emerge, new daughter bulbs also differentiate and develop in the heart buds of the seed bulbs, so it is necessary to promote strong seedlings and early growth in the early stage. After repeated experiments, lily fertilizer management should adhere to the principle of "heavy at the front, controlled in the middle, supplemented at the back" and the two "mainly" fertilization methods, namely mainly organic fertilizer, applied at planting time and before emergence, accounting for more than 70% of the total fertilization amount. Generally, base fertilizer per mu includes about 450 kg of dry straw mulch, 2.5 tons of high-quality pig manure, 50-75 kg of decomposed cake fertilizer, 30 kg of standard nitrogen fertilizer, 20-30 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15-20 kg of potassium fertilizer. When hilling soil before emergence, apply 50 kg of cake fertilizer, 15 kg of standard nitrogen fertilizer, 10 kg of phosphate fertilizer, and 15 kg of potassium fertilizer per mu (or 30-40 kg of three-element compound fertilizer alone). If there is no potassium fertilizer, apply an additional 100 kg of plant ash. For Yixing lily with a yield of more than 1000 kg per mu, the total fertilization amount is 42.7 kg of pure nitrogen, K2O514.1kgK2O56.2kg, and the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 1:0.33:1.32. Experiments with different amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium chemical fertilizers show that the optimal application rate of chemical nitrogen fertilizer is K2O5,6kg per mu, and chemical potassium K2O7.5-22.5kg. The suitable soil pH for lily growth is pH 5.7-6.3. Soils around the Taihu Lake region are generally neutral to slightly acidic, with pH between 6.5 and 5.0. The results of experiments on phosphate fertilizer types show that fused calcium magnesium phosphate is more effective than superphosphate. Lily bulbs are fresh and tender; affected by the free acid in superphosphate, the rate of rotten and missing lily plants increases, diseases are severe, the incidence rate reaches 60%, and the disease index reaches 52.5%, reducing yield by 4.6% compared with applying fused calcium magnesium phosphate, and the bulb color is also poor. On alkaline soil with pH above 7.5, applying superphosphate can appropriately regulate soil pH and benefit lily growth.

★Cultivation of Oriental lilies

Oriental lily, also known as the Oriental lily, is one of the ten most popular flowers in the world today. Because of its beautiful flower shape, bright colors and rich fragrance, it is an ideal material for gift bouquets, flower baskets and artistic flower arrangements. Since China's reform and opening up, it has developed rapidly. Especially in recent years, due to the sharp increase in flower usage in China, its planting area has continued to expand. Oriental lily has become an indispensable type among fresh flowers. Its cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:

I. Land selection, bed preparation, disinfection

(1) Land selection. Because Oriental lily bulbs degenerate very quickly and have strict requirements for the cultivation environment, suitable planting areas are hard to find, so the selection of planting land is also of paramount importance. Oriental lily prefers cool, humid climates and semi-shaded environments. The soil should be deep, loose, well-drained, rich in humus and slightly acidic.

(2) Bed preparation. The bed surface is generally prepared to 1-1.2 m wide and 25-30 cm high, with a ditch width of 40 cm between beds. Before preparing the beds, apply 1-1.3 tons of humus soil or pig manure per simple greenhouse (30 m €?.5 m), sprinkle 2 kg of carbofuran or phoxim (used to kill underground pests), water to loosen the soil and mix it thoroughly.

(3) Disinfection. Because Oriental lilies are extremely susceptible to stem rot, Phytophthora blight, leaf blight and gray mold, prevention should be the priority, starting with proper soil control. Commonly used methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. a. Steam disinfection: bury heat-resistant plastic pipes with small holes 30 cm below the bed surface, cover the bed surface with film, then introduce steam and fumigate continuously for 1 hour. b. Chemical disinfection: generally use 40% formalin prepared into a 1:50 solution and splash it on the bed surface at 25-30 kg/M. After splashing, cover with plastic film for 2 days, then uncover the film and air-dry for 10 days. Planting can only be done after the chemical vapor has completely dissipated.

II. Cultivation management

(1) Treatment of bulbs. Before planting, pick the bulbs out of the bulb boxes, handle them gently to prevent breaking the sprouts, and at the same time check bulb quality and remove unqualified bulbs such as those with broken sprouts or rot, or with rotten scales or basal plates. Soak the bulbs in 500-800 times diluted fungicide such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil or carbendazim for 15-20 minutes.

(2) Planting time. In order to bloom at Spring Festival and Valentine's Day, planting should generally be done in mid-October and early November. When planting, it is best to plant before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m.

(3) Planting density and depth. Generally the plant spacing is 10-15 cm and the row spacing is 15-18 cm; as for depth, the planting depth is about 6-8 cm above the sprout point. After planting, cover the surface with a layer of wood chaff and fallen leaves, cover with a shade net, and water thoroughly at the same time.

(4) Make labels and records. After planting, labels should also be made, noting the specification and planting date. Hang two thermometers and hygrometers in each greenhouse, one at the front and one in the middle, and keep a record book. Observe the thermometers and hygrometers three times a day and keep records.

(5) Points for attention

1. The sprout point of the planted bulb should point vertically upward from the ground.

2. The soil temperature should be lowered before planting.

3. The Oriental lilies we plant in Guangxi are generally airfreighted from Kunming and have already been thawed, so they should be planted as soon as possible, minimizing the time left in the open field, and preferably planted within two days.

4. After the young seedlings grow 2 cm above the ground, straighten misaligned seedlings in time. This critical period must be strictly grasped; if this opportunity is missed, straightening the seedlings later can easily damage the root system, and not straightening them will seriously affect the survival quality of Oriental lilies.

(6) Water and fertilizer management. When planting Oriental lilies, sprinkle 5 kg of superphosphate per greenhouse. Then, from planting until emergence, generally no fertilizer is applied, but the soil should be kept moist, to the degree that no water seeps out when the soil is held in the hand, avoiding excessive dryness or waterlogging. Especially during the rooting stage and harvest stage, water demand is relatively high, and especially it must not be too dry. When the young seedlings grow to 10-15 cm, begin applying fertilizer for the first time, then apply once a week, adhering to the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently. At the same time, in each greenhouse, select several representative plants for each specification and measure their height, leaf length and width, and leaf number every three days, and keep records, so as to adjust and determine the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer for the next application. Generally, in the early and middle stages, apply more compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium, with a ratio of 10:15:8, to promote seedling growth and rooting; in the middle and late stages, emphasize compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, with a ratio of 8:10:20, to help increase stem hardness; spray monopotassium phosphate once every 10 days at a concentration of 0.1%. At the same time, pay attention to watering, avoid excessive dryness or waterlogging, and maintain air humidity at 50%-80%.

Points for attention: It is strictly forbidden to pour fertilizer onto the leaves. If fertilizer is accidentally poured onto the leaves, rinse quickly with clean water to avoid burning the leaves and affecting quality.

(7) Temperature management. The temperature must not exceed 30°C at the highest and must not be lower than 5°C at the lowest. The most suitable soil temperature is 12°C-15°C. If it exceeds 18°C or is lower than 10°C, it is unfavorable for roots. After rooting, the temperature can be increased, maintaining 18-25°C during the day and 12-18°C at night. If it is too high during the day, it will reduce plant height, reduce the number of flower buds per stem, and produce a large number of blind flowers. If the night temperature is lower than 12°C, it will cause bud drop or leaf yellowing, reducing ornamental value.

(8) Light management. The development of Oriental lily flower buds especially requires sufficient light conditions, but excessively high temperatures will burn the leaves and reduce the ornamental effect.

(9) Netting and staking. In addition to the color, shape and petal texture of the flowers themselves, the height standard of Oriental lilies also requires upright and straight stems. Oriental lilies are strongly phototropic, and those cultivated in winter often lean toward the south and lodge, so netting and staking must be done in time. According to bulb specification, for large bulbs, the first staking and netting is done when they grow to 20 cm, and the second when they grow to 45-50 cm; for small bulbs, the first staking and netting is done when they grow to 15 cm, and the second when they grow to 40-45 cm.

(10) Pest and disease control. Oriental lilies are prone to Phytophthora blight, gray mold and stem blight. a. Pay attention to ventilation in the greenhouse and keep it clean; b. At the early stage of disease, immediately remove diseased plants, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture and 600 times diluted 65% zineb solution, or use 800-1000 times diluted bactericidal agents (such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, agricultural streptomycin for bacteria, etc.) to drench roots or spray; c. Usually focus on prevention, spraying bactericidal agents once every 10-15 days. D. Pests are generally aphids, prevented with omethoate and derris extract, etc. After occurrence, spray continuously two or three times. Pay special attention not to use dichlorvos during the flowering period, otherwise it will damage the petals. Therefore, after aphids appear on the corolla, use deltamethrin or pyrethrum for control.

III. Harvest

For those with 5-10 flower heads, 2 buds must be colored; for those with fewer than 5 flower heads, at least one bud must be colored before harvest. The best harvest time is in the morning, which can reduce water loss and prevent buds from wilting easily. After harvest, insert them into clean water containing preservative as soon as possible to absorb water.

Cultivation methods and points for attention for society garlic

Cultivation methods for society garlic

Soil

Society garlic has no strict requirements for soil and tolerates poor soil. However, it blooms vigorously on fertile, well-drained sandy loam or loam.

The potting mixture should be prepared by mixing leaf mold, sand and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, with sufficient fully decomposed compost and a small amount of bone meal applied at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer.

Temperature and light

Temperature: Society garlic likes high temperatures and tolerates heat. The suitable growth temperature is between 24-30°C.

Light: Society garlic likes light. Full sun or half sun is ideal for cultivation, but it should not be heavily shaded.

Water and fertilizer management

Watering: Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growth season and in dry weather, water appropriately and more frequently, and often sprinkle water around the flowerpot to increase air humidity. The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulbs easily rot.

Fertilization: Generally apply diluted liquid fertilizer 2-3 times during the growth period to promote the growth and development of the seedlings. When approaching bud formation and flowering, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 1-2 times to ensure sufficient nutrition for the seedlings during the bud and flowering stages, which can not only make the flowers larger and more brightly colored, but also promote bulb development.

For large-area planting, pay attention to ventilation and appropriate shading. If planting in a small area or in pots, for ornamental varieties with many flowers and slender, weak stems, set up supports to prevent the flowering branches from breaking.

Propagation methods

Society garlic can be propagated by various methods such as scale propagation, bulb propagation, bulbil propagation and seed propagation.

Points for attention when keeping society garlic at home

Common pests and diseases of society garlic

Common pests of society garlic: aphids, leafhoppers

Common diseases of society garlic: mosaic disease, bulb rot, leaf spot

Flowering-period care for society garlic

Society garlic is a perennial herb of the genus Allium in the Liliaceae family, with terminal umbel inflorescences. Slender, upright flower stems emerge from the leaf clusters, bearing several tens of small pink-purple or light purple flowers at the top, which are quite beautiful. Society garlic blooms in May in East China, and the flowering period can continue until November.

During the flowering period of society garlic, appropriately add farmyard compost such as soybean cake and rapeseed cake to prolong the flowering period and make the flowers bright and beautiful.