The benefits and uses of Impatiens walleriana: growing it indoors purifies the air and beautifies the environment
Impatiens walleriana is a plant introduced to our country from Africa, and it is also a fairly common flower in people's lives today, with high ornamental value. But besides that, it also has many other uses. What exactly are the benefits and uses of Impatiens walleriana? Below, the editor takes everyone through them.
I. The benefits and uses of Impatiens walleriana
1. Ornamental use
Among the benefits and uses of Impatiens walleriana, the ornamental use is arguably the best known; it can be seen in all the major gardens of our country, and every year from June to October, during the flowering period of Impatiens walleriana, the major gardens welcome a steady stream of visitors who come to admire it.
2. Use for dyeing nails
Those who like Impatiens walleriana are generally mostly women, because this plant can also be used to dye nails. When using Impatiens walleriana to dye nails, first we pick an appropriate amount of petals, then put them in a container and mash them; after mashing, wrap the petals on the fingers, then wrap leaves around the outside, and after 3-4 hours the color is basically taken.
3. Medicinal value
Besides the above two points, Impatiens walleriana also has good medicinal value; its seeds can be used as medicine, have a certain anti-cancer effect, and have a good effect on bruises and injuries, with the effect of invigorating blood and dissolving stasis.
4. Purifying the air
Generally, green plants can release oxygen and freshen the air, and Impatiens walleriana is no exception. It is a light-loving plant, and when it receives light it carries out photosynthesis, at which time it releases oxygen to purify the air, playing a great role in improving indoor air.
5. Treating mosquito and insect bites
Impatiens walleriana has an effect similar to floral water. In summer, when the skin itches from mosquito and insect bites, mash Impatiens walleriana, then apply the juice to the itchy area, which can greatly relieve the itching; in this respect it can be said to completely replace floral water.
Before reading this article, many people may not have known much about Impatiens walleriana, and may not have known about these uses; in fact, the editor only learned about them after checking a lot of materials, and is sharing them with everyone here. That is all the editor has to introduce about the benefits and uses of Impatiens walleriana, and I hope it can bring some help to everyone's daily life.
How to grow golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
Golden pothos, also known as pothos, Shiganzi, and Chuiye vine, is a perennial climbing foliage plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. Golden pothos is a trailing plant; its stem nodes bear aerial roots and it can climb other objects to grow upward, with stems reaching over ten meters or even longer. The leaves are nearly heart-shaped, entire, dark green, and glossy; the leaf surface has irregular yellow spots or blotches; the leaves are smaller at the seedling stage and grow larger as the plant grows; due to differences in cultivation conditions (especially fertilizer and water conditions), leaf size varies, and there is no distinction between large-leaf and small-leaf varieties. Golden pothos was introduced and cultivated in our country relatively early, and is also cultivated more in the south; currently common cultivated varieties also include: Golden pothos: the leaves have yellow spots and stripes, rather beautiful.Silver pothos: the spots and lines on the leaves are pinkish-white, with more pinkish-white spots and lines on young leaves. Because there is less chlorophyll in the leaves, growth is weaker.
Yellow pothos: the leaves are pale yellow-green, and there are no spots or streaks on them either; it was introduced relatively late.
Tricolor pothos: the leaves are bright green, with yellow and milky-white blotches, very beautiful.
Green vine: the leaves are green, with no spots or stripes of other colors on them. Golden pothos originates from the Indonesian archipelago. In tropical regions it often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests and can grow into a huge climbing plant. It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment, and is not cold-tolerant; the suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C. It can also tolerate a relatively dry environment, and still grows well when the air humidity is 40%-50%; it has low requirements for soil, but well-drained fertile soil is preferable.
Golden pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. It easily survives throughout the entire growing period. When taking cuttings, cut 15-30 cm long branches, remove the leaves from the basal 1-2 nodes, insert them into a cutting bed made of half river sand and half leaf mold, keep moist, and they will root quickly, then pot them up. If in the high-temperature season, you can cut 3-4 shoot tips from the end of the stem vine and plant them directly into pots, but special attention must be paid to ensuring the potting soil is loose and breathable, while frequently spraying water on the leaf surface to retain moisture. In addition, water cuttings can be used for propagation, that is, cut off stem nodes that have aerial roots, insert them into water, and after the aerial roots adapt to the water environment they will begin to sprout and grow, but the water quality must be kept clean. For potted golden pothos, equal parts garden soil and leaf mold mixed can be used as the substrate. When planting, a support column wrapped with palm fiber can be erected in the center of the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it, so that the branches and vines climb and grow on the support; during the growth of the branches and vines, water should be sprayed frequently to retain moisture, to promote the occurrence of adventitious roots on the stem nodes and their attachment to the column. You can also plant 3-5 small seedlings directly in the pot and let the stem vines hang down, for hanging or trailing cultivation. At the seedling stage, do not water too much, to avoid rot at the root crown; during the vigorous growth period, water or mist thoroughly. Golden pothos requires a relatively large amount of fertilizer during growth; if nutrition is insufficient, the leaves are not easy to grow large. Generally apply liquid fertilizer about once every two weeks to ensure vigorous growth. When fertilizing, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the spots and blotches on the leaf surface easily turn green, which reduces ornamental value. Except in summer when the sunlight is too strong and shading is needed, at other times let it receive as much sunlight as possible, so that the internodes are substantial and the leaf color is deep green. If the light is too weak, the markings on the leaf surface also easily decrease or disappear, affecting the ornamental effect. To maintain a good plant shape, shorten overlong stem vines and disordered branches, so that the lengths are orderly and the density appropriate; for climbing cultivation, pay attention to tying and adjusting the stem vines, so that the leaf sizes are uniform and the plant shape is more perfect. The leaves of golden pothos are crystal-clear and deep green, and the smooth waxy leaf surface is inlaid with golden-yellow markings or blotches, colorful and splendid. It can be cultivated as a totem pole, letting it climb and grow, to decorate a wall corner or a corner of a desk or tea table; it can also be used as a hanging decoration, for decorating walls, windowsills, balconies, and other places. It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying the home; placed indoors, it can make the room full of vitality.
Care of pothos Pothos develops best when cultivated in loose, organic-rich, slightly acidic to neutral sandy loam. You can use 70% leaf mold, 20% red loam, and 10% rapeseed cake and bone meal mixed and composted. Repot once every three years. Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoiding direct sunlight, liking scattered light, and being fairly shade-tolerant. For indoor cultivation, it can be placed by a window, but direct sunlight must be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch the leaves of pothos, and too much shade will make the beautiful markings on the leaf surface disappear; generally, receiving four hours of scattered light gives the best growth and development for pothos. Pothos likes relatively high air humidity and a moist environment. In midsummer, the peak growth period of pothos, you can spray the aerial roots and leaf surface of the pothos several times a day, which can both wash dust off the leaves, helping the pothos breathe, and make the leaf color emerald green and verdant, and can also lower the leaf surface temperature, increase the air humidity of the micro-environment, and make the leaves grow better. The potting soil should be kept moist; when you find the potting soil turning white, water thoroughly. In winter, when the room temperature is relatively low, pothos is in a dormant state, so water less, just keeping the potting soil from drying out. The most suitable growth temperature for pothos is 20°C-28°C during the day and 15°C-18°C at night. In winter, as long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely; if the temperature is lower than 5, it easily causes leaf drop and affects growth. For fertilizing pothos, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, supplemented by potassium fertilizer. Before the arrival of the spring growth period of pothos, apply a 0.3% solution of ammonium sulfate or urea once every 10 days or so, and use a 0.5‰-1‰ urea solution for one foliar feeding, which can both meet the growth needs of pothos and keep the leaves green and glossy. Fertilizing should be stopped in winter. Usually pothos is propagated by cuttings and stem layering. Select healthy pothos vines, cut them into sections of two nodes, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert them into plain sand or coal cinders, with a depth of 1/3 of the cutting, water thoroughly and place in a shaded place, spray water on the leaf surface every day or cover with plastic film to retain moisture; as long as the environment is kept no lower than 20, the survival rate is above 90%.
Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings; in late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm branches, remove the leaves from the basal 1 to 2 nodes, and pot them directly in culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot, water thoroughly, place in a cool, ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. Cuttings taken from branches in spring and summer root easily; for making a totem pole, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that they take shape relatively quickly. Pothos can also be grown in water, but compared with soil cultivation the plant is smaller. Light
The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, and its positive phototropism is not strong. But in the north in autumn and winter, to supplement the insufficiency of temperature and photosynthesis, its light intensity should instead be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the spot with the best indoor light, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to bask in the sun. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open the windows as little as possible, because in an extremely short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
Temperature
In the north, with a room temperature above 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely; with a room temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have no problem reaching this temperature; note that you should avoid too large a temperature difference, and also note that the leaves should not be close to heating equipment.
Humidity
This refers to the water content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. To increase humidity, the following methods can be used. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours a day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots, several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flowerpot saucer, increasing the plant's local humidity through its evaporation; use a cold wet towel or toilet paper to gently wipe the leaf surface or briefly (1-2 hours per day) gently apply it to the leaf surface; cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a small greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
Water
The amount of watering in autumn and winter should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, the temperature is relatively low and the plant's soil evaporates relatively slowly, so watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at between 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent; when watering, pour less into the pot, and water should seep through the palm fiber. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where the aerial roots of the palm column grow, to reduce insufficient water absorption by the roots caused by excessive evaporation. In winter, water that has been left to stand for a day is better for watering; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
Fertilizer
In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply liquid inorganic fertilizer by watering and spraying, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing is mainly by foliar spraying, mainly sprayed through the stomata on the leaf surface, absorbing fertilizer through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should use a special fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Huhuashen series and Japan-produced Hua Yifan, etc., can all be used as foliar fertilizer.
Basic watering skills for soil-grown plants
Watering indoor plants follows the principle of “dry-wet cycle”. The so-called “dry” means that after watering once, you must wait until the soil surface turns white, that is, the surface soil is dry (that is, the top about 3 cm of soil is dry), before watering a second time; in other words, water when the potting soil is basically dry through, and you cannot wait until the potting soil is completely dry to water. The so-called “wet” means that each time you water you must water thoroughly, that is, water until water seeps out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, and you cannot just give “half watering”. Because the plant's root system is mostly concentrated in the middle and lower part of the pot, giving “half watering” is actually equivalent to not watering. For drought-tolerant plants, watering should follow the principle of “better dry than wet”.
Hydroponic golden pothos:
Golden pothos cultivation method: Golden pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings. It easily survives throughout the entire growing period. When taking cuttings, cut 15-30 cm long branches, remove the leaves from the basal 1-2 nodes, insert them into a cutting bed made of half river sand and half leaf mold, keep moist, and they will root quickly, then pot them up. If in the high-temperature season, you can cut 3-4 shoot tips from the end of the stem vine and plant them directly into pots, but special attention must be paid to ensuring the potting soil is loose and breathable, while frequently spraying water on the leaf surface to retain moisture. In addition, water cuttings can be used for propagation, that is, cut off stem nodes that have aerial roots, insert them into water, and after the aerial roots adapt to the water environment they will begin to sprout and grow, but the water quality must be kept clean. For potted golden pothos, equal parts garden soil and leaf mold mixed can be used as the substrate. When planting, a support column wrapped with palm fiber can be erected in the center of the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it, so that the branches and vines climb and grow on the support; during the growth of the branches and vines, water should be sprayed frequently to retain moisture, to promote the occurrence of adventitious roots on the stem nodes and their attachment to the column. You can also plant 3-5 small seedlings directly in the pot and let the stem vines hang down, for hanging or trailing cultivation. At the seedling stage, do not water too much, to avoid rot at the root crown; during the vigorous growth period, water or mist thoroughly. Golden pothos requires a relatively large amount of fertilizer during growth; if nutrition is insufficient, the leaves are not easy to grow large. Generally apply liquid fertilizer about once every two weeks to ensure vigorous growth. When fertilizing, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the spots and blotches on the leaf surface easily turn green, which reduces ornamental value. Except in summer when the sunlight is too strong and shading is needed, at other times let it receive as much sunlight as possible, so that the internodes are substantial and the leaf color is deep green. If the light is too weak, the markings on the leaf surface also easily decrease or disappear, affecting the ornamental effect. To maintain a good plant shape, shorten overlong stem vines and disordered branches, so that the lengths are orderly and the density appropriate; for climbing cultivation, pay attention to tying and adjusting the stem vines, so that the leaf sizes are uniform and the plant shape is more perfect. The leaves of golden pothos are crystal-clear and deep green, and the smooth waxy leaf surface is inlaid with golden-yellow markings or blotches, colorful and splendid. It can be cultivated as a totem pole, letting it climb and grow, to decorate a wall corner or a corner of a desk or tea table; it can also be used as a hanging decoration, for decorating walls, windowsills, balconies, and other places. It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying the home; placed indoors, it can make the room full of vitality.
Care of hydroponic golden pothos:
Hydroponic golden pothos plants are 30-40 cm tall; golden pothos is crystal-clear and deep green, and the smooth waxy leaf surface is inlaid with golden markings or blotches, appearing gorgeous and colorful. It can remove harmful gases such as formaldehyde, benzene, carbon monoxide, and nicotine.
Hydroponic golden pothos is called a “lazy person's flower” for being trouble-free and convenient, so its daily care is very convenient; you only need to pay attention to the following points:
I. Suitable environmental temperature:
The growth temperature of hydroponic plants is 5°C-30°C, and within this range they can all grow normally.
II. Suitable light:
The light for hydroponic plants should mainly be scattered light; they do not necessarily have to be exposed to the sun. In summer, direct sunlight should be avoided as much as possible.
III. Changing water and cleaning the flower roots:
For hydroponic plants, change the water about once every 7 days in summer and about once every 10-15 days in winter, adding a few drops of special nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers (prepare the nutrient solution concentration according to the instructions).
The vessels used for cultivating hydroponic plants easily grow moss, which affects the ornamental appearance of the root system and also consumes oxygen in the water. When changing the water, first wash off the mucus on the flower roots with clean water, and cut off old roots and rotten roots. Also scrub the moss on the vessel and root system clean. Each time you change the water, the water level should preferably submerge 1/2-2/3 of the root system, with the remaining root sections left exposed to the air.
IV. Moisture retention and spraying foliar fertilizer:
To prevent the leaves from drying out, in daily care you should spray clean water on the leaf surface to retain moisture; it is best to spray foliar fertilizer once a week, which can both provide nutrition to the leaves and increase leaf gloss, and in winter can also achieve the purpose of resisting low temperatures.
Care techniques for hydroponic pothos (deluxe type)
A shade-loving plant, avoiding direct sunlight; as long as the indoor temperature is not lower than 10°C, it can overwinter safely; if the temperature is lower than 5, it easily causes leaf drop and affects growth.
Water-changing principle for hydroponic plants: after tap water has been left to stand for a day, add a drop of “nutrient solution” before you can change the water for the plants; in summer plants consume a lot of oxygen, so change the water once every 4-5 days; in spring and autumn plants consume a relatively large amount of oxygen, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in winter oxygen consumption is small, so change the water about once every 15 days.
Hydroponic golden pothos - Shanghai indoor ornamental plants - Shanghai landscape design
Large evergreen climbing plant. Growing in tropical regions, it often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks in rainforests and can grow into a huge climbing plant. The green leaves have yellow blotches. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots; it can be allowed to climb on a column tied with palm fiber and placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or it can be trained into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill; it is a flower relatively suitable for indoor placement. Pothos vines are several meters long, with aerial roots at the nodes; as the plant ages, the stems thicken and the leaves also grow larger and larger. Leaves alternate, green, a few leaves also slightly mottled with yellow, entire, heart-shaped.
Ornamental value: Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants, a climbing vine foliage flower. The pothos stems are slender and soft, and the leaves are delicate and elegant. Place a cachepot high on top of a furniture cabinet and let its trailing stems hang down gracefully, or after the trailing stems hang too long, loop and hang them into a ring, just like an emerald relief. This both makes full use of space and purifies the air, and also adds a lively-lined, brightly colored green decoration to the dull cabinet surface, full of vitality, adding a warm touch of charm to the room.
The flower language of the pothos flower: watching over happiness
Physiological characteristics
It likes a warm, humid environment and requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil. For potted pothos, choose fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny spot indoors in all four seasons; in a dimly lit room, it should be moved every half month to a bright environment to recover for a period, otherwise the internodes easily lengthen and the leaves become smaller. Pothos likes a hot and humid environment, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C; the potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to raise air humidity, so as to facilitate the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, liquid fertilizer can be applied once a month. For plants kept indoors for ornamental viewing for a long time, the leaves at the base of the stem easily fall off, reducing ornamental value; in May and June when the temperature turns warmer, pruning and renewal can be carried out together with cuttings, to prompt new buds to sprout from the basal stem.
Propagation methods
Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings; in late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm branches, remove the leaves from the basal 1 to 2 nodes, and pot them directly in culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot, water thoroughly, place in a cool, ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. Cuttings taken from branches in spring and summer root easily; for making a totem pole, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that they take shape relatively quickly. Pothos can also be grown in water, but compared with soil cultivation the plant is smaller.
Hydroponic pothos can also grow into:
1. How long does newly cut pothos need in hydroponic cultivation before it grows roots?
Probably within a week
2. How often should the water be changed for newly cut pothos in hydroponic cultivation?
7-10 days
3. How often to fertilize?
You need to buy that kind of hydroponic domestication solution, which promotes rooting of hydroponic flowers and has anti-inflammatory and sterilizing effects; add a few drops each time you change the water
Hydroponic domestication solution is not nutrient solution, do not mix them up; flower markets all sell it; in the early stage of hydroponic flowers, you must use that thing to root them
Care methods
Light
The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, and its positive phototropism is not strong. But in the north in autumn and winter, to supplement the insufficiency of temperature and photosynthesis, its light intensity should instead be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the spot with the best indoor light, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to bask in the sun. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open the windows as little as possible, because in an extremely short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
Temperature
In the north, with a room temperature above 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely; with a room temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have no problem reaching this temperature; note that you should avoid too large a temperature difference, and also note that the leaves should not be close to heating equipment.
Humidity
This refers to the water content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. To increase humidity, the following methods can be used. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours a day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots, several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flowerpot saucer, increasing the plant's local humidity through its evaporation; use a cold wet towel or toilet paper to gently wipe the leaf surface or briefly (1-2 hours per day) gently apply it to the leaf surface; cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a small greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
Water
The amount of watering in autumn and winter should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, the temperature is relatively low and the plant's soil evaporates relatively slowly, so watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at between 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent; when watering, pour less into the pot, and water should seep through the palm fiber. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where the aerial roots of the palm column grow, to reduce insufficient water absorption by the roots caused by excessive evaporation. In winter, water that has been left to stand for a day is better for watering; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.
Fertilizer
In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply liquid inorganic fertilizer by watering and spraying, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing is mainly by foliar spraying, mainly sprayed through the stomata on the leaf surface, absorbing fertilizer through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should use a special fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Huhuashen series and Japan-produced Hua Yifan, etc., can all be used as foliar fertilizer.
Cultivation points
Pothos grows relatively fast and cultivation management is extensive. During cultivation and management, in summer more water should be sprayed on the plants, and foliar fertilization should be carried out once every 10 days to keep the leaves verdant. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30 cm above the cultivation column they should be cut off; when the basal leaves have fallen off by 30%-50%, they should be discarded and replanted. Green-column potted plants are ideal plants for courtyard gateposts and wall greening, and their leaves are also excellent foliage for flower arrangements.
Shaping and pruning
Plant or directly insert cuttings 4-5 plants per pot, and set up a palm column in the middle of the pot to make it convenient for the pothos to twine and grow upward. Shaping and pruning are carried out in spring. When the stem vines have climbed all over the palm column and the tips exceed the palm column by about 20 cm, cut off 40 cm of the stem tips of 2-3 of the plants. After the shortened cuts sprout new buds and new leaves, then cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants. For potted plants whose whole plant or lower half has lost leaves due to winter freezing or other reasons, you can shorten half of the plant's stem vines by 1/2 and the other half of the stem vines by 2/3 or 3/4, staggering the cut heights, so that the new leaves grown below the cuts can quickly cover the palm column.
Office and home care methods for pothos:
1. Pothos is all shipped from Guangzhou to all parts of the country; pothos bought back in winter has generally been frozen, so placing it indoors will soon show yellow leaves; after these frozen leaves have all turned yellow and fallen off, it will still send out new growth again after Spring Festival
2. Generally, newly bought pothos has an adaptation period of about 1 month in the new environment, and yellow leaves at the bottom are normal, but remember: do not directly peel off yellow or dead leaves; cut them off from the middle of the leaf stalk, thus avoiding excessive water loss and added wounds caused by direct peeling; otherwise the upper leaves will also turn yellow.
3. Pothos is not afraid of shade, but a very dark environment also cannot raise it well! You can regularly move the position to a place with good light; but it cannot be exposed to blazing sun!
4. To raise pothos well, appropriate ventilation is also needed,
5. When watering, you can water the column wet, as the upper part is all aerial roots. From time to time spray some nitrogen fertilizer on the leaves, and water the soil with some diluted ferrous sulfate solution.
6. If the leaves have already turned very severely yellow! Be sure to pay attention to controlling watering; too much or too little is both bad! At this time, place the pothos in a well-ventilated place with light!
7. Pothos is afraid of freezing; after freezing it will turn black until it dies.
8. When the pothos has grown very long and climbs over the top of the column, you should cut it off, or turn the head upside down and let it climb downward, which is also fine; do not let it grow randomly.
There are many reasons for the yellowing of the lowest leaves of pothos:
1. Occasional occurrence is normal metabolism during the growth period, but the interval is relatively long.
2. Too much watering or drought; watering should follow dry-wet cycle.
3. After autumn turns cool, fertilizing should be stopped.
4. Indoors, attention should be paid to light and ventilation.
5. In winter, water should be sprayed appropriately.
Also: when pothos has more yellow leaves, the cause is mostly at the roots; yellow leaves are only the surface phenomenon, and root rot means yellow leaves.
Pothos habits and propagation
Pothos, also known as golden pothos, devil's ivy, golden vine, etc., is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Epipremnum in the Araceae family. The stem vines of pothos are thick and strong, can reach several meters long, and there are aerial roots at the stem nodes. Young leaves are ovate-heart-shaped; the leaves of newly propagated seedlings are relatively small and lighter in color; as the plant age increases, mature leaves are long ovate, about 15 cm long and about 10 cm wide. The deep green leaf surface is inlaid with yellow-white irregular spots or streaks. Due to differences in fertilizer and water conditions, the leaf size varies.
Pothos has luxuriant branches and leaves, good shade tolerance, is evergreen all year round, and is glossy. In winter, outdoor plants and trees wither and fade, while indoor pothos is still lush and green, so it is an excellent indoor foliage plant. Because the stem vines of pothos grow relatively fast, people often cultivate it as a column vine, that is, erect a support in the center of the flowerpot, wrap some palm fiber on the support, with the support's diameter reaching 10 cm to 12 cm, then plant 3 to 4 seedlings in the pot, so that their stem vines climb and grow around the column. Some also plant pothos in a flowerpot, place it on a flower stand, and let its stem vines hang down like a green curtain, with a unique charm.
Pothos originates from the Indonesian archipelago, and in tropical regions often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks. It likes a high-temperature, humid, semi-shaded environment and is not cold-tolerant; the suitable growth temperature is 15°C to 25°C, growth is slow below 15°C, and the overwintering temperature is not lower than 10°C. It is sensitive to temperature, avoids direct sunlight in summer, and under strong light the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off, so in summer outdoors attention should be paid to shading. In winter indoors, under bright scattered light it can grow well, with sturdy stem nodes and brilliant leaf color. During the growth period it has relatively high water requirements; besides normally replenishing water to the potting soil, water should also often be sprayed on the leaf surface, and for column vine cultivation more water should also be sprayed on the palm fiber column, so that the palm fiber fully absorbs water for absorption by the aerial roots winding around the stem. Apply a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer once every 2 weeks, or spray a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once a week, to make the leaves verdant and the markings more vivid.
Pothos is generally propagated by cuttings; because there are aerial roots at the stem nodes, cuttings very easily survive. The cutting time is from April to August; when taking cuttings, cut a section of stem vine 15 cm to 20 cm long as the cutting, remove the lower leaves, keeping only 1 to 2 leaves at the top, insert it obliquely into a sand bed, then water thoroughly, keep moist, and afterward frequently spray water on the cutting's leaf surface; in about ten-odd days it can root. Pothos can also be water-propagated using terminal buds; the method is: cut a tender, strong stem vine 20 cm to 30 cm long as a section, insert it directly into a bottle filled with clean water, change the water once every 2 to 3 days, and in more than 10 days it can root and survive.
Because potted pothos is limited by the potting soil, after too long a cultivation time the plant easily ages, and the leaves become smaller and fall off. Therefore, after 2 to 3 years of cultivation, repotting or pruning and renewal must be carried out.
Pothos cultivation methods
Pothos, also known as golden pothos, originates from tropical rainforest regions and is an evergreen climbing plant of the Araceae family. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots; it can be allowed to climb on a column tied with palm fiber and placed in an entrance hall or hotel, or it can be trained into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill; it is a flower relatively suitable for indoor placement. For potted pothos, choose fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny spot indoors in all four seasons; in a dimly lit room, it should be moved every half month to a bright environment to recover for a period, otherwise the internodes easily lengthen and the leaves become smaller. Pothos likes a hot and humid environment, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C; the potting soil should be kept moist, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to raise air humidity, so as to facilitate the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, liquid fertilizer can be applied once a month. For plants kept indoors for ornamental viewing for a long time, the leaves at the base of the stem easily fall off, reducing ornamental value; in May and June when the temperature turns warmer, pruning and renewal can be carried out together with cuttings, to prompt new buds to sprout from the basal stem. Pothos is mainly propagated by cuttings; in late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm branches, remove the leaves from the basal 1 to 2 nodes, and pot them directly in culture soil, 3 to 5 per pot, water thoroughly, place in a cool, ventilated place, keep the potting soil moist, and in about one month they will root and sprout, and in the same year they can grow into plants with ornamental value. Answerer: Pothos propagates easily and is easy to grow; from the office of the White House in the United States to the poorest common people, its traces can be seen everywhere. It belongs to the easier-to-raise category among foliage plants; as a plant from the tropics and subtropics, pothos likes hot and humid conditions, with the best growth temperature between 20°C and 30°C, and can adapt to temperatures above 65°C and other characteristics, while the north in autumn and winter does not have these conditions, so autumn and winter care has become a crucial link in the pothos growth cycle; creating for it in winter a growing environment as comfortable as summer can keep pothos always luxuriant. When caring for pothos, attention must be paid to the following aspects. 1. Light for pothos: The original growing conditions of pothos are in forests shaded by towering trees, and its positive phototropism is not strong. But in the north in autumn and winter, to supplement the insufficiency of temperature and photosynthesis, its light intensity should instead be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the spot with the best indoor light, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to bask in the sun. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open the windows as little as possible, because in an extremely short time the leaves may be frostbitten. 2. Temperature for pothos: In the north, with a room temperature above 10°C, pothos can overwinter safely; with a room temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have no problem reaching this temperature; note that you should avoid too large a temperature difference, and also note that the leaves should not be close to heating equipment. 3. Humidity for pothos: This refers to the water content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. To increase humidity, the following methods can be used. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours a day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots, several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flowerpot saucer, increasing the plant's local humidity through its evaporation; use a cold wet towel or toilet paper to gently wipe the leaf surface or briefly (1-2 hours per day) gently apply it to the leaf surface; cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a small greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis. 4. Water for pothos: The amount of watering in autumn and winter should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, the temperature is relatively low and the plant's soil evaporates relatively slowly, so watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at between 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent; when watering, pour less into the pot, and water should seep through the palm fiber. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where the aerial roots of the palm column grow, to reduce insufficient water absorption by the roots caused by excessive evaporation. In winter, water that has been left to stand for a day is better for watering; water that is too cold easily damages the roots. 5. Fertilizer for pothos: In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply liquid inorganic fertilizer by watering and spraying, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing is mainly by foliar spraying, mainly sprayed through the stomata on the leaf surface, absorbing fertilizer through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should use a special fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. The Beida Huhuashen series and Japan-produced Hua Yifan, etc., can all be used as foliar fertilizer. Pothos column: Pothos does not set seed; buying from a flower shop or cutting some tender, strong tip shoots from relatives and friends is enough for it to survive. After the tip shoots sprout, a pothos column can be added. The pothos column has the function of fixed support for the growth of pothos and can also provide necessary moisture. Usually used as a pothos column placed in the pot, bury some soil slightly, use wooden sticks to build a triangle to fix it, then bury it in the soil; because plants will still grow, the soil should not be too much. Take sprouted pothos seedlings and insert them into the soil; generally speaking, the denser the pothos seedlings in the pot, the better they look after growing, and about 4-5 plants should be planted in one pot. Use string to tie the small seedlings on one side and fix them to the palm column on the other, water toward the palm column to fix it and keep it moist; after some days, the aerial roots of the pothos will take root and grow in the palm column. The best time to add the pothos column is at the turn of spring and summer; in winter the temperature is low and the seedlings are easily injured, so when adding the column attention should be paid to getting the temperature right.
Cultivation and management of the green pet golden pothos (photo)
Speaking of golden pothos, there should be no one who does not know it, right! Whether in offices or homes, its figure can always be seen; even in darker corners, you can also see the lush golden pothos striving to stretch its branches and leaves. If we were to vote for plants suitable for indoor cultivation, I think golden pothos would be elected by a high vote!
Golden pothos belongs to the Araceae family as a perennial herbaceous plant, native to the Solomon Islands, but after being introduced to Taiwan, China, because Taiwan, China's climate is very suitable for their growth, besides artificially planted plants, naturalized golden pothos plants can also be seen in the suburbs, climbing among the trees. The leaves of golden pothos are heart-shaped, the leaf surface smooth, and the stems are trailing, climbing or hanging. Leaf color differs by variety; besides the common green leaves with yellow spots (golden vine), there are also green leaves with white spots (white gold vine) and yellow-green (lime golden pothos). Because of golden pothos's beautiful leaf color and trailing habit, they often become one of the main characters in combination potted plants.
Golden pothos has a special habit: if the plant climbs from bottom to top, the leaves grow larger and larger; if the stems and leaves hang from top to bottom, the leaves grow smaller and smaller. So generally when cultivating golden pothos, besides using it as a hanging basket plant, people also often use a tree fern column as a climbing support and grow it into an upright large potted plant. The cultivation medium should be well-drained; cultivation soil mixed with tree fern chips can be used. Its demand for light is relatively small, but if variegated-leaf varieties are grown in a relatively dark place, the leaf color will turn green; you can move the plant to a place with bright scattered light, and the leaf markings will reappear. Besides soil cultivation, golden pothos can also be grown hydroponically; the advantages of hydroponics are, besides being simple, convenient, and clean; the choice of containers is also more varied, such as ceramic pots, glass bottles, iron cans, etc., all can be used as cultivation containers; the only thing to note is that the water level should not exceed 1/2 of the roots, otherwise the roots easily rot.
Generally, golden pothos is propagated by cuttings, carried out in spring and summer. You can choose stem sections containing more than 2 nodes, remove the leaf of the lowest node, insert it into the cultivation medium, keep humid, and in about 1 week it can root and sprout. After the plant has been grown for many years, there will be aging; you can cut off the stem sections and re-propagate them by cuttings, thereby replacing the old plants. For base fertilizer, Hyponex can be used, applied once every three months, or flower sticks, applied once every two months; in spring and summer when growth is more vigorous, use Huabao as a top dressing, applied once every 2 weeks. If growing in water, dilute Huabao 3000-5000 times and use it as the cultivation liquid, replacing the cultivation liquid once every 2 weeks.
Almost every household has golden pothos planted, but because they are robust by nature, they are often neglected by us; either we forget to repot them, or we do not fertilize them. Although they will not shout in protest, the leaves will grow smaller and smaller, and the plant will become thin and weak. If your home also grows golden pothos, do not ignore them anymore; they are little vanguards of indoor greening! (Reporter Liu Yinghua
Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete collection of hydroponic flower knowledge
Hydroponic flower knowledge | The complete collection of hydroponic flower knowledge
Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques
1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?
Answer: In theory any flower can be hydroponically grown, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions; some plants are sensitive to oxygen deficiency and need air regularly pumped into the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements and require suitable nutrient solution formulas. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo appropriate domestication and adaptation before they can be hydroponically grown. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
money tree, money tree, Peperomia, sunflower god, maranta, little angel, Marianne, sansevieria, golden barrel cactus and other cactus balls, as well as Ludisia, snake plant, etc. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.
2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic nutrient solutions contain all the essential nutrient elements required for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and others. It is a colorless, odorless, and non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.
3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?
Answer: The reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is mainly because when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can react with each other to form precipitates, rendering the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, to ensure an adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in a concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions currently sold on the market come in only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.
4. Is more nutrient solution in a hydroponic flower container always better?
Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and should not be too much. Generally, when the root system is well developed, part of the roots should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either; if too little, you will need to replenish the nutrient solution frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer of about 5-10 cm deep is sufficient.
5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?
Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, since household hydroponic flowers are usually placed in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is sufficient.
6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each species?
Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every species requires its own corresponding nutrient solution. It is sufficient to select different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. Currently, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage-type, indoor plant-type, orchid-type, and flowering-type.
7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?
Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, remove the soil-grown flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.
8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?
Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the small fish kept together with flowers only need to absorb plankton and root exudates from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, the fish can easily overeat and die. Additionally, adding fish feed can easily make the nutrient solution cloudy and reduce the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.
9. When should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: This depends on the rate of water consumption by the plants. If the weather is dry and the plants are large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished about every 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is sufficient. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; simply add about 1/3 to 1/2 of the container depth.
10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?
Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is virtually unlimited, but generally it is best not to use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experience Talk on Household Hydroponic Flowers
As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: (1) Water replaces soil, odorless and clean. (2) No need for repotting or loosening soil, reducing the labor of flower care. (3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. (4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decor. (5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can be stably maintained above 80%.
1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the top choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), spotted dumb cane (Dieffenbachia picta), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), elephant ear (Alocasia), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), aloe (Aloe vera), inch plant (Tradescantia), wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina), coleus (Coleus), Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), fuchsia (Fuchsia), etc. In addition, scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), azalea (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia), cyclamen (Cyclamen), amaryllis (Hippeastrum), calla lily (Zantedeschia), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), hyacinth (Hyacinthus), and other flowering plants also respond well to hydroponic cultivation. Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), petunia (Petunia), and red-backed eurya (Excoecaria cochinchinensis) have lower survival rates as hydroponic flowers.
2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. (1) Containers. Any attractive water-holding container can be used. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, etc. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and material of the container should be in harmony with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect them before use. (2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.
3. Timing for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are the most suitable seasons for hydroponics, but it also varies depending on the flower species. If the indoor temperature is between 15°C and 28°C, foliage plants can be hydroponically grown in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best hydroponically grown when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, and camellia are often hydroponically grown in early January, so that the full blooming period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.
4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. (1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Remove it from the pot and soil, wash the soil off the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off any decayed and aged root strands (for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots). Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes (this both sterilizes and disinfects, and promotes new root development), after which hydroponic cultivation can begin. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. (2) Water-cutting method. Select robust, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year and cut them off to insert into water for hydroponic cultivation. The cutting position is usually 2-3 mm below a stem node. The cut should be smoothed with a sharp knife (previously wiped and disinfected with white liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.
5. Water for hydroponics and water changing. (1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, does not form sediment, and contains various trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, as it contains many impurities, easily forms sediment, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial for flower growth. (2) Water changing. Due to the normal growth and metabolism of plants, after a period of hydroponic cultivation, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. The nutrient solution added to the water is also largely absorbed by the plant, and excessive residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growing seasons for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash off the mucus on the roots, and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The water level should be level with the root collar. Too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot; too shallow easily causes root water shortage and affects growth.
6. Adding hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will begin to grow. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased from the market as needed. It must be noted that: (1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies depending on the flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. (2) Each type of specialized nutrient solution must be used for its designated purpose, to avoid mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause the clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; simply changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as for pothos and spotted dumb cane.
Pest and Disease Control Techniques for Hydroponic Flowers
Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, and larvae. If not carefully inspected and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.
Because of the special nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not advisable to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor should large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.
For pests and diseases that may occur in hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the priority. When selecting flowers for hydroponics, choose plants that are robust, growing vigorously, and free of pests and diseases as much as possible. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by manual capture or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular circular water-soaked lesions, which are caused by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned to prevent it from spreading. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot and stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or an inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause leaf tip scorching and yellowing and dropping of lower leaves in static hydroponic flowers. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot more likely, which is an especially common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.
How should static hydroponic flowers with stem detachment and root rot be cared for? Due to improper management, root oxygen deficiency and rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and dropping in large numbers, causing the lower part to detach and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with stem detachment and root rot, the plant renewal method can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch at 3 cm below a stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the detached section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, and at that point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, and arrowhead plant can all be treated by this method.
Complete Handbook of Household Hydroponic Flowers
Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants
1. Remove flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and convert them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.
2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after they root, cultivate them with nutrient solution.
3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple. These small plantlets can be picked off and directly hydroponically grown.
4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.
How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution
Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:
1. Select plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.
2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no drainage holes at the bottom.
3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients essential for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:
(1) Macronutrients: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.
(2) Micronutrients: disodium EDTA 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Pure water: 1 liter (1000 mL).
The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is less than 0.5 mm/cm.
Cultivate the selected flowers in a container, pour in the hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a uniquely charming static hydroponic flower.
When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use pure water. Of course, generally drinking tap water can also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. Both have undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that pure water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically contains no nutrient elements essential for plants, while tap water, as the composition of the water source changes, contains nutrient elements in unstable amounts. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with pure water has a stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.
Liquid chlorine is used to disinfect tap water. If the chlorine content in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a larger-diameter bucket for several days, and stir it a few times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing the water, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hyposulfite) to 10 kg of tap water, stir well, and it will also achieve a chlorine-removal effect.
Most foliage flowers prefer a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed in hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can facilitate the flowers' absorption of trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, ensure normal growth, and keep the leaves emerald green.
How to Apply Foliar Fertilization
Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. To improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface. A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, and every effort should be made not to let the fertilizer liquid run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with abundant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as peace lily, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface once a week until the flowers open.
Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers
Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers and plants used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and are cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with leaf edges scorched, old leaves yellowing, and wilting and dropping. Under static hydroponic conditions, this phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers are more cold-resistant, such as English ivy, periwinkle, and candle plant, which grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, some flowers lose their leaf luster, grow sluggishly, and develop scorch-like brown spots on the leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this is also related to the fact that the dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as the temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.
Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers
Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate sufficient nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaf surfaces in low-light environments and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain the radiance of their leaf color.
Plant growth has phototropism, so the orientation of the flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be combined with cleaning the container and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.
Humid Environment and Good Ventilation
The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaf surfaces of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle spray head so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run off. For the relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Swiss cheese plant and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.
There must be a well-ventilated environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors, and if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is stale, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and the dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and dropping leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened at regular intervals to create air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.
Rooms with air conditioning can, of course, achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner, which is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.
Pest and Disease Control for Hydroponic Flowers
Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, and larvae. If not carefully inspected and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.
Because of the special nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not advisable to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor should large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.
For pests and diseases that may occur in hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the priority. When selecting flowers for hydroponics, choose plants that are robust, growing vigorously, and free of pests and diseases as much as possible. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by manual capture or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular circular water-soaked lesions, which are caused by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned to prevent it from spreading. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.
Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot and stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or an inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause leaf tip scorching and yellowing and dropping of lower leaves in static hydroponic flowers. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot more likely, which is an especially common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.
How should static hydroponic flowers with stem detachment and root rot be cared for? Due to improper management, root oxygen deficiency and rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and dropping in large numbers, causing the lower part to detach and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with stem detachment and root rot, the plant renewal method can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch at 3 cm below a stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with the detached section, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, and at that point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, and arrowhead plant can all be treated by this method.
How Many Hydroponic Flowers Are Suitable for Display
Cultivating hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate, calculated by room area, to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m. By this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can both satisfy ornamental needs and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.
How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter
Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their cleanliness, beauty, and ease of care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":
First, you must choose flower species suitable for hydroponics. If you buy species unsuitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, before long they will gradually die because their roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all fairly suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, philodendron, inch plant, and lucky bamboo.
Second, you must choose flower species with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being susceptible to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with only slight cold protection include Swiss cheese plant, purple heart, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, pygmy date palm, and rhapis palm.
Third, you must choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials may look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so you must distinguish carefully when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.
Fourth, you must choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with spirited, upright branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to displaying the ornamental effect that flowers should have.
Advantages of Hydroponics
1. Simple daily management
The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not require extra care. Ordinarily, you only need to spray water on the leaf surfaces in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaf surfaces, just wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.
2. Clean and stylish
Because hydroponic flowers are completely removed from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-grown flowers, pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are removed from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials for planting. We can not only enjoy the flowers and leaves, but also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their varied beauty, which is very neat and stylish.
3. Many applicable varieties, technology easy to master and operate
Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to grow water roots through cultivation in planting baskets, nor does it need early-stage computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives the product greater profit margins, and increases the product's competitiveness in the market. At the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become even more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be hydroponically grown, only with different degrees of difficulty.
4. Green and eco-friendly, can keep flowers and fish together
"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to either the flowers or the fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquito larvae are not likely to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-grown potted flowers at home, there will be an even more unexpected surprise. Practice has proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and eco-friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.
Selection of Hydroponic Flower Types
The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, flowers can grow normally in water.
Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissue in their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be delivered through the air-conducting tissue to the root system for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air. Some flowers, although they do not have air-conducting tissue or aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are still very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of some flowers for normal growth and development, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower species that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and never cultivate blindly, lest hydroponics fail.
Flower Types Suitable for Hydroponics
Araceae
Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value. After plants grown in soil are washed, most of their original root systems can adapt to a hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers suitable for hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong evergreen, spotted dumb cane, silver king, golden queen, clustered bird's nest fern, mini Swiss cheese plant, Swiss cheese plant, peace lily, green emerald, philodendron, fiddle-leaf philodendron, green emperor philodendron, arrowhead plant, elephant ear, anthurium, and emerald gem.
Commelinaceae
Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple heart, purple-backed oyster plant, bamboo grass, and inch plant, all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown from water cuttings.
Liliaceae
The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, triangular aloe, dotted haworthia, spider plant, cordyline, dragon tree, Madagascar dragon tree, snake plant, agave, golden-edge lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edge evergreen, and silver-edge lilyturf.
Crassulaceae
Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as houseleek, jade plant, silver jade, jade plant, and mother of thousands.
In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Japanese aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, purple velvet plant, blue pine, bamboo begonia, beefsteak begonia, green emerald, clivia, lady's slipper orchid, croton, dusty miller, candle plant, leaf cactus, triangle bamboo, pineapple, earth star, chloranthus, star jasmine, dragon bone, crown of thorns, variegated periwinkle, red-backed eurya, four seas wave, English ivy, common ivy, rhapis palm, and pygmy date palm.
When selecting hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, you should also pay attention to the following factors:
Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of Dieffenbachia and croton require overwintering temperatures above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead plant, golden-edge lucky bamboo, and dragon tree species also require overwintering temperatures above 10°C. This certainly poses no problem for rooms heated in winter, but for most households, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the entire plant to die after overwintering, due to low-temperature cold damage, the plant's leaves will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, have scorched leaf tips or margins, or develop new scorched spots on the leaves, and may even cause extensive leaf drop or partial branch and leaf death, thereby losing ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable heating conditions, you must pay attention to choosing flower species with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:
Flowers with strong cold resistance
Such as evergreen, star jasmine, rhapis palm, agave, Japanese aucuba, jade plant, sea onion, and variegated lilyturf, which can withstand low temperatures around 0°C.
Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance
Such as Swiss cheese plant, purple heart, bamboo grass, aloe, spider plant, silver jade, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, chloranthus, crown of thorns, variegated periwinkle, common ivy, and pygmy date palm, which can overwinter safely with slight protection.
Of course, some flowers such as red emerald philodendron, green emerald philodendron, arrowhead plant, pothos, snake plant, and croton, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.
Shade Tolerance
Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even semi-shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple heart, and inch plant need sufficient scattered light, while peace lily, green giant, Guangdong evergreen, and silver king all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions within a room vary, you should choose suitable flower species according to the light conditions of the placement location to ensure normal growth and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it will cause the plant's branches and leaves to grow excessively, stems to become thin, internodes to lengthen, leaves to become smaller and deformed, lose green color and proper luster, colored stripes on the leaves to fade and lose color, and even cause extensive leaf drop, thus seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.
Techniques for Hydroponic Spider Plant
Spider plant has fresh emerald leaf color and orchid-like leaf shape, fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower loved by people. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.
1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. For a single-layer bottle, use a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle to plant the spider plant. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.
2. Obtaining seedlings: Remove the potted or field-grown spider plant from its pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves), and keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.
3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the treated spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge, and insert a plastic straw for water supply. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots soak in the water to grow. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle. Place ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution in the lower bottle. After potting is complete, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.
4. Management:
(1) Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week. When changing the water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container clean, fill it with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on top of the water bottle.
(2) Fertilizer: Add flower nutrient solution at the same time as adding or changing water to the roots. For foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.
(3) Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.
(4) Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When flowering, do not spray water on the flowers to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.
Outstanding Performers in Static Hydroponics
Plants of the Araceae family comprise more than 105 genera and over 2,500 species, originating in tropical Asia and arising in forest waters or swamps. After a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and others. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have very close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop air-conducting tissue under stress environments.
In static hydroponics of terrestrial plants, root respiration is in a state of severe oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed around aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herbaceous genus, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics during the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in aquatic environments. Pistia is found in freshwater bodies on almost every continent of both the Old and New Worlds; it is the most evolutionarily advanced monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easily dispersed, with a very strong capacity for multiplication. In addition, Araceae also includes such well-known aquatic species as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris and taro.
The evolutionarily advanced Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher foundation. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all derive from aquatic ancestors, and in appearance they form a "negation" of those aquatic ancestors. Their final transformation into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia is a return that constitutes yet another "negation," which is precisely the dialectical law of the "negation of the negation." This shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial life achieve unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are outstanding candidates for static hydroponics.
II. Araceae belongs to the order Arales, which contains only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic family Lemnaceae, whose members are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and are extremely closely related to each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolve forward along an approximately spiral curve centered on aquatic genetic genes.
III. The position of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and that a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor with Arecales and Dasypogonales (primitive lilies), traceable further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales is closely related to Pandanales and Arecales and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems it can be inferred that Arales has affinities with Liliales, Arecales and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolve forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have affinities with Liliales, Arecales and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, possessing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants outstanding candidates for static hydroponics.
Judging and treating root rot in hydroponics
During hydroponic cultivation, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons; for example, excessively low temperatures, over-concentrated fertilizer and disease can all cause root rot, and root rot degrades water quality and affects plant growth. To judge whether roots have rotted: first, smell the roots with your nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted. Second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating. Third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the roots have turned yellow and discolored, it indicates the root system has already been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root collar, and the epidermis will tear off very easily, leaving only the lignified part.
Once root rot appears, it should be cut away promptly. Generally, root rot spreads gradually upward from the root tip, so after pruning, keep cutting until you reach normal roots. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, deal with it promptly.
Simple hydroponic setups - bottles and jars, and their cultivation management
Using waste containers such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles and white rigid polystyrene foam boxes (cases), with only slight modification they can become hydroponic carriers of various sizes and shapes, making use of local materials and putting everything to good use, while also greening the surrounding environment with a charming touch of returning to nature.
I. Bottles and jars
1. Metal beverage cans, wide-mouth glass or plastic bottles, square foil-lined paper beverage cartons and the like were originally meant to hold liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed out clean, they can be set aside for use as hydroponic carriers.
2. Planting cups: according to the size of the opening of the chosen container, choose a plastic cold-drink cup that fits just about one third of the way into the opening, to serve as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "well"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that the roots can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution while the plant's anchoring material does not leak out. The holes also serve a ventilation function.
3. Anchoring the plant: prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8 x 12 cm, of the kind used for garment interlining. Gently rinse the soil off the seedlings to be hydroponically grown, or off purchased potted flowers with soil, without damaging the roots. Wrap and roll the root system in the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic foam (leftover scraps cut from shoulder pads for jackets or from sofa and chair cushions), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white), to thicken it so that it fits exactly into the plastic planting cup and anchors the plant. If none of the above is at hand, floral foam can also be cut appropriately and used as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven roll wrapping the roots, together with the exposed roots, into the bottle or jar containing the nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should be at least 1 cm below the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. By means of the capillary absorption of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the roots. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time the distance from the liquid surface to the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.
4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae that compete with the cultivated plant for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sun exposure, it is best to provide shade or place it where sunlight does not fall directly.
II. Boxes and cases
1. Box body: usually a white rigid polystyrene foam box of the kind used for shock-proof packaging, or a corrugated cardboard box or wooden box of a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35 x 25 x 15 cm to 60 x 40 x 16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled off with a wooden board or foam board. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film to prevent the nutrient solution from leaking. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If no black film is available, other films can be substituted.
2. Top cover: the top cover also serves as the planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same size as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the top cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough that the chosen plastic cold-drink cup can be placed in it while about 1/2 of the cup height remains exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, on the side of the top cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal use.
3. Planting cups: material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.
4. Floating board: take a polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm thick, each side 2.5 to 3 cm smaller than the clear inner area of the box, to serve as the floating board. Cut small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter in a regular pattern on it to increase the air content of the floating board and allow roots to extend into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board to serve as a wick for absorbing the nutrient solution. If these things truly cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be substituted. The area of the absorbent cotton layer extends about 6 cm beyond each side of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang down freely from all sides of the board (like an apron) and dip into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer containing nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant's roots can extend freely on the floating board, coming into more direct contact with the air. Another part of the roots can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in it, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate the nutrient solution or oxygenate it.
5. Cultivation management:
(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. Just after planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. At the highest liquid level, a certain space must still be left inside the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm as the plant absorbs and transpires it, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.
(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when it precipitates, becomes turbid, gives off a foul odor or becomes infected with pathogens, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to a complete replacement.
The requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation
The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to mist the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after misting move the flowers back indoors for display). When misting, it is best to use a fine-nozzle spray head so that the mist droplets cling to the leaf surface without running off. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia miniata, you can wipe the leaf surface with a damp towel, which both increases leaf-surface humidity and removes dust from the leaves. For those larger flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clear water beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase the ambient humidity.
There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If hydroponic flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and the air stale, this is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people leave home for work during the day and do not open the doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, dissolved oxygen keeps decreasing, and their growth becomes worse and worse, producing yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are displayed should have doors and windows opened at regular times to create air convection, letting fresh outside air into the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.
Rooms with air conditioning can of course reach the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and withered tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out at appropriate times; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places where large hydroponic flowers are displayed need this work done even more.
The light requirements of hydroponic flowers
Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally, placed indoors, in a living room or office, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light requirements can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, so growth is poor. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Codiaeum variegatum, lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless; such flowers can maintain glossy leaf color only in an environment with relatively ample light that is not exposed to strong direct light.
Plants are phototropic, so the orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated at regular times. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution: rotate the flower, whose roots have been cleaned, 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will keep the flower from growing leaning to one side, with the growing tip always upright and reaching upward.
How hydroponic flowers can safely overwinter
How hydroponic flowers overwinter
Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius their tissues will undergo necrosis. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, winter indoor temperatures generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius; if a few days of extreme low-temperature weather occur, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a small local microclimate. In the north, because most indoors have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.
Why hydroponic flowers need their water changed
Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer; at the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and repotting once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growing period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.
Hydroponic method for cyclamen
Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from the traditional flower pot and substrate, it is both clean and attractive, and can give blooming cyclamen plants a variety of cultivation and application forms; as soon as it appeared on the market it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, growing cyclamen hydroponically is not difficult. First, you need to choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare the container to be used for hydroponic cyclamen; once this preparation is done, you can begin making the hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (potting soil), and placed under a faucet with a relatively gentle stream of water to rinse the substrate clean; alternatively, the plant together with the substrate can be placed in a basin of water and the substrate swished off in the water, then rinsed clean with tap water. Note that throughout the process of removing the substrate, movements must be gentle, trying as much as possible to avoid injuring the cyclamen's roots. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the pre-prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.
It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen tuber can keep the cyclamen plant in normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water level must be kept below the tuber. Generally, according to the evaporation of the water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water level.
In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in character and striking in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the way the cyclamen plants are combined. This depends entirely on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.
Hydroponic method for Hoya with exposed roots
Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through trials of exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: (1) labor-saving; (2) hygienic; (3) few pests and diseases; (4) simple management; (5) long flowering period; (6) you can view the roots, view the leaves and also admire the flowers, and so on.
The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:
(1) Seedling treatment: dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clear water, cut off dead leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.
(2) Potting: take a glass bottle or vase (without a drainage hole), put a few attractive river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the roots, add clear water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool, shaded place.
(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clear water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and after changing the water add nutrient solution. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and thereafter inject once a month, to promote growth and flowering and prolong the flowering period.
(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.
There is a big difference between hydroponic flowers and water-grown flowers
In recent years, some water-grown and hydroponic flowers have become favored by people for being fresh and eco-friendly, elegant in style, easy to care for and easy to combine. On the surface, water-grown and hydroponic flowers have the same cultivation form, namely liquid maintenance, so many people lump the two together. In fact, they are clearly different.
Flowers used for water growing generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients; their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients they themselves store, and during cultivation it is enough simply to soak the roots in clear water and fix them in place, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water growing mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo and so on. To make water-grown flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom beautifully, the key is to choose plump, well-developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, persisting in changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (for lucky bamboo, change the water once every 7 to 10 days), to maintain sufficient oxygen content in the water and improve root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight so that they grow robustly.
Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant's roots fixed on the cover plate or floating board of a flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be provided with a reasonable inorganic nutrient supply, so hydroponic flower cultivation is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of flowers suitable for hydroponics are suited to normal growth in water. The main varieties currently cultivated include Clivia miniata, spider plant, Schlumbergera, Dracaena fragrans, Rohdea japonica, clustered Syngonium, Monstera deliciosa, Graptopetalum, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum and other plants.
Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, has after 8 years of effort already developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants and flowering ornamental flowers such as Clivia miniata and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, Anthurium and Hippeastrum, have also successfully been grown hydroponically. Some flowers characteristic of China, such as Ludisia, have also been domesticated for hydroponics.
In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed: the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-grown plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender and fresh than those grown in soil.
The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and be careful to keep the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The nutrient solution that is changed out can be used as fertilizer for other crops.
A brief introduction to hydroponic flower technology
Hydroponic flower cultivation is a common type of soilless cultivation; its methods are many, and several commonly used ones are briefly described below.
Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant's root system is wholly or partly immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; and the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.
Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is put into a plastic bag to cultivate plants; on this basis it was further improved: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution forms a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant's root system is immersed in the nutrient solution and part is exposed to the moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white on the outside and black on the inside, wrapping the plant to form a dark inner space.
The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.
Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized it is sprayed around the plant root system; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problems of water, nutrient and oxygen supply, and the plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used when rooting cuttings.
Glass bottle hydroponic technique: The aqueous solution can use a glass canning jar; wrap the jar all around with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste on a layer of black paper, so that the inside of the jar is light-proof. Blocking light is beneficial to root growth and avoids the breeding of algae. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper around the outside of the black jar to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the jar lid, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant in place, cover the jar lid, and the top of the lid should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the jar, but not too full; leave a gap to give the plant oxygen for respiration. If it is water propagation to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operating procedure:
Changing the solution: For small seedlings, the nutrient solution can be changed once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change it once a week during the peak growing season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks outside the growing season.
Ventilation: Open the jar lid for a moment every morning and evening to let the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, ventilation can be omitted for more than a month at a time.
Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water must often be added to the jar to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.
Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: You can use fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself; the formulas are as follows:
Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)
Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/liter; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/liter; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/liter; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/liter; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/liter; trace elements 2 ml; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.
Formula 2: (pH value 6-6.5)
Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/liter; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/liter; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/liter; trace elements 2 ml; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/liter; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.
Preparation method of the trace element solution:
Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, cupric chloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 ml of water, then make up to 1000 ml.
Multiple methods of hydroponic flower cultivation
(1) Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed with. From a selected mother flower plant, cut off part of a stem or branch, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will take root and sprout and grow into a new plant. When cutting a branch, cut 3-5 mm below a node, and the cut surface should be smooth, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting a branch that has aerial roots, protect the aerial roots and insert them into the water. Epipremnum aureum, lucky bamboo and others are all suitable for this hydroponic method.
(2) Root-washing method: Choose an ornamental, robustly growing flower that has already been formed through soil cultivation (or cultivation in another medium), remove the soil, wash the root system clean, and switch it to hydroponics; when washing the roots it is best to use running water. After washing, plant the flower in a prepared vessel and add tap water to cover 2/3 to 1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clear water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and the vessel; after one week reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flower grows new roots in the water, this shows it has adapted to the hydroponic environment, and you can change the water once every 7-10 days, or even longer.
(3) Sucker removal method: This is suitable for flowers with strong suckering ability, such as Clivia miniata and bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Choose a relatively large sucker, remove the upper soil to expose the part connecting it to the mother plant, use your hands or a sharp blade to detach the sucker from the mother plant (protecting the sucker's roots), wash off the soil clinging to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.
(4) Runner plantlet removal method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and on the runners grow one to many small plantlets, most of which bear a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plant and stoloniferous bromeliads, which both have this characteristic. Making use of this feature of the flower, pick off the formed small plantlets for hydroponics; it is very simple and convenient.
For hydroponic flowers it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, Clivia miniata, Epipremnum aureum, Tillandsia, Aglaonema modestum, Tradescantia spathacea, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, Hippeastrum, gladiolus and so on.
Guide to the difficulties of summer care for hydroponic flowers
I. Where are the difficulties in getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants cultivated in a non-solid medium (water, or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism is vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen keeps decreasing, and water quality deteriorates, creating many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, possibly causing root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire flower. Therefore, in summer, besides preventing extreme heat and high temperatures, raising the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers get through the summer safely.
Water-grown ribbon grass
II. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?
Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen; they can be summarized into two categories, chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several methods that are easy to carry out and effective.
1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution
Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70% to 90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the flowers' physiological oxygen deficiency.
For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most no more than 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.
When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clear water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to stimulate new root growth.
If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg clusters or mosquito larvae breed in it, the nutrient solution should be replaced immediately with fresh solution.
2. Vibration for oxygenation
For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen; the method of operation is to hold the flower steady with one hand and grasp the vessel with the other hand and shake it gently more than 10 times; after shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.
Hydroponic flowers whose nutrient solution is turbid or whose root system is poorly developed are not suitable for the vibration oxygenation method; the nutrient solution must be thoroughly replaced.
3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers
According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, and inside it is installed a miniature circulation pump. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; when working, the nutrient solution circulates through the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system keeps a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an "oxygen bar," and their growth is clearly better than with static hydroponics.
For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and changing the solution are generally done once every 30-35 days.
4. Aerate the vessel
If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, put the air stone into the static hydroponic flower vessel and aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out), and use the flow of air to increase oxygen; the effect is also quite good.
III. Where is it suitable to place hydroponic flowers in summer?
Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers grown for both flowers and foliage. Such as Syngonium podophyllum, Rohdea japonica 'Baekdu', Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, bromeliads and so on. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are somewhat tolerant of shade, and dislike high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits or the environmental factors they require. In summer it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool temperatures and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not make it too shaded either, lest the flowers' photosynthesis be hindered, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate and leaves become thinner, causing the leaves of flowers with color blocks and colored patterns to lose their luster.
IV. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?
Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast an air speed will damage the branches and leaves, causing leaf curling in mild cases and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. It should also be considered that flowers require higher temperatures during the day than at night; if the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, this is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.
When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clear water beside the flowers or mist the leaves to increase ambient humidity, and place the flowers a little farther from the air conditioner's air outlet; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.
V. What should be done if hydroponic flowers suffer root rot?
Answer: As the temperature keeps rising, the water temperature also rises, microbial breeding accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, can also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena marginata (fine-leaved dragon tree) and Dracaena concinna.
For flowers with root rot, the following methods can restore their growth:
(1) Remove all the rotten root system; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut away the infected part as well.
(2) Soak the pruned flower in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize it.
(3) Take out the soaked flower and rinse it under running water.
(4) Put the washed flower back into the original vessel and grow it in clear water (the vessel should be washed clean).
(5) Change the water once every 1-2 days, changing only clear water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can sprout.
(6) When new roots first sprout, still grow them in clear water; once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25 degrees C, cultivate with nutrient solution.
VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?
Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon in the process of cultivating hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, high temperatures, good vessel transparency, a bright environment, or too long an interval between nutrient solution changes will all trigger massive algae growth. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, their secretions pollute the solution and lower the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower root system hinder root respiration and interfere with the flower's normal physiological activities, doing great harm.
Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the polluted solution, thoroughly clean the vessel, brush off the algae attached to the root system, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.
At present, scientists in China are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of "algae-eating insects" into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can eliminate algae growth.
Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower vessel and avoid strong direct light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.
VII. What fertilizer should be applied to hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, belonging to a cultivation method of soilless cultivation, in which the flower's root system is anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), also called nutrient solution cultivation.
Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with the plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers need different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you cultivate five or six bottles, or even a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers at the same time, with all different varieties, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matched plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For the sake of simplicity, you can choose to use a general-purpose plant nutrient solution.
General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of the various elements, inorganic salts in ionic form, and a wide range of application; they are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and their pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.
There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with quality varying greatly. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.
In summer, opinions differ on whether to use nutrient solution or only clean water for cultivation. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water. For example, Spathiphyllum (white flag), pothos, mini Monstera, red gem philodendron, and Philodendron species, cultivating with nutrient solution helps maintain their growth advantage and enhances ornamental quality. For coleus, begonia, bromeliads and other flowers, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to get through the summer safely.
When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the ratio indicated in the instructions; do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown in hydroponic conditions changes, becoming looser than in soil cultivation with larger cells. The cell walls become thinner, directly absorbing water, nutrients and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to flowers. As long as the concentration of macronutrients is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.
In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.
8. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?
Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, suitable for flower growth, and they easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. When changing the cultivation method of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Select varieties closely related to wetland plants. ② Flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as Syngonium, mini Monstera, red gem Philodendron, green giant, pothos and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil to hydroponics in summer; they adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.
When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing it, use a larger container for cultivation, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. When water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with low-concentration plant nutrient solution.
Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo
Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and West Africa.
Characteristics
Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, dark green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edge lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edge lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo dracaena, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.
Habits
Prefers high temperature and humidity; wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch; during the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.
2: Suitable for ample diffused light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.
Hydroponic method for Anthurium
Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower, lampstand flower
Characteristics
Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Internodes are short; leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet; the spadix is yellow and extends straight.
Habits
Prefers high temperature, high humidity and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and wintering should be above 10°C.
Propagation
Division, tissue culture.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: Not cold-tolerant; needs heating and warmth in winter.
2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.
Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials
Use the potted root-washing method
Hydroponic method for azaleas
The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea; the soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.
1. Preparation of substrate
Azalea roots are very fine, requiring loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing, sterilize the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water, and after drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month before use in pots.
2. Preparation of nutrient solution
Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing season, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.
Preparation of macronutrients: Add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.
Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g disodium edetate, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, and 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 ml of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, and 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 liter of water.
3. Water and fertilizer management
Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally a bit more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is during bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer; water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, water demand is high; besides daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, fertilizer demand is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the onset of the dog days, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilization amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the weather cools in autumn, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote healthy flower bud growth. After the beginning of winter, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately according to the dryness and wetness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.
Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm
Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan and other places.
Characteristics
Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, jointed like bamboo, with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious.
Habits
Prefers warm, shady and humid environments with good ventilation. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; in winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures around 0°C.
Propagation
Generally by division combined with repotting. Select large, dense clumps; first lift the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape, then repot them. After watering thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, moist place and frequently spray water on the leaves. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal care.
For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout in the spring of the following year.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it is prone to yellow leaves; when ventilation is poor, parasites breed.
2: During the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.
Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials
Suitable for potted root washing. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard, and after hydroponics it is not easy to rot, but new roots sprout slowly, taking more than one and a half months.
Hydroponic method for purple velvet plant
Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.
Characteristics
Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. Leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with goose-down-like purplish-red fine hairs. Purple velvet plant has bright, beautiful and elegant color, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.
Habits
Purple velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment; direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shady, the plant will fade and turn green. The wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.
Propagation
Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and place them in a shaded, moist place after cutting; they can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to promote lateral branch sprouting.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in more than 10 days. But at high summer temperatures, roots rot easily.
2: Purple velvet plant grows quickly; when branches reach an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to promote new shoot sprouting.
Hydroponic method for parlor palm
Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.
Characteristics
Evergreen small tree, with a short and small plant form. Stems are slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.
Habits
Prefers warm, humid and semi-shaded environments. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum wintering temperature is 3°C.
Key points for hydroponic care
1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but when too shady, the leaf color will also fade.
2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces ornamental value; when cultivating, small plants can be grown below.
Obtaining hydroponic materials
Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in a few days.
Hydroponic method for cactus ball
We know that cactus balls are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but cactus balls have problems of being dirty and difficult to manage due to traditional cultivation methods, and more people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now cactus ball cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.
1: Selecting the mother plant
First, we should select cactus balls with sturdy bodies. The key is to select plants whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus balls grafted and cultivated with three-ribbed sword are easier to hydroponically cultivate.
2: Treatment
After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the ball body, requiring the cut to be flat. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem part clean with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.
3: Hydroponics
Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, add nutrient solution below, with the nutrient solution height just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part), prepare children's foam puzzle boards or white construction foam boards, and use a sharp knife to dig several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden ball, you can cut off the mouth of a discarded purified water bottle and use it inverted; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden ball can emerge from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat bottle containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-ribbed sword into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all three-ribbed swords just contact the liquid surface.
4. Post-hydroponic treatment
Purchase two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and place them in the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution, thereby speeding up the growth of water roots. (You can also purchase a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to realize flowing and oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)
5: Key points for hydroponic care
Place the planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong diffused light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, replace the nutrient solution immediately.
Note:
During the induction process of cactus balls, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it can easily cause the ball body to rot and necrose.
What should be noted when hydroponically cultivating clivia at home?
Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note:
① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the diameter should not be too large.
② The cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating with clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.
③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The frequency depends on weather conditions. When the temperature is relatively low, change about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, change once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.
How to scientifically hydroponically cultivate amaryllis
In early winter, select one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the mushy substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and place them in a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulbs. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The water depth should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower vessel. Finally, place it in a place with ample indoor light. Keep room temperature around 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots will develop. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer should be supplemented promptly. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. In this way, the hydroponically treated bulbs bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering gap period.
Technical management of hydroponics
1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans have had a history of planting, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word agriculture is Agrculfure, composed of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation, successfully cultivating plants with artificial nutrient solutions made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.
◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into hydroponic flowers with medium and hydroponic flowers without medium. Hydroponics with medium refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponic flowers without medium are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, atomized hydroponic flowers, nutrient film drip irrigation and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability and home cultivation applicability, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful and simple, so hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in direct hydroponic form.
◆3. Why is nutrient solution the key to successful hydroponic flower cultivation?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrate is used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to timely test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. But in a home environment, these conditions are difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless cultivation without medium. Without medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not emit odor, have no peculiar smell, and still grow normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and should be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. Furthermore, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for nutrient solutions.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare. Moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies regard their nutrient solution technology as their top secret technology, so nutrient solution formulas obtainable from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference materials and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the displayed plants grow vigorously and whether water roots grow, because as the saying goes: "Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!"
◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues begin to necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, indoor winter temperatures generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are several days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.
◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, common popular flowers can all be hydroponically cultivated. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated. In homes with balconies, there are more suitable varieties.
◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Each of our specialty stores has samples of fish raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for raising fish, and due to limited volume, fish species should also be selected. Some fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish, small koi, etc. Some fish with strong aggressiveness or destructiveness are not suitable for raising in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage plant roots; and some delicate fish are also not suitable, because even raising them in specialized aquariums is difficult to succeed, let alone in relatively poor conditions in small flower bottles. Water changes can be carried out at the same time as normal water changes for the flowers. When feeding, it is the same as when we usually raise fish in fish tanks, with no difference.
Because the special substances in "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, thereby facilitating plant root respiration, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so there is no need to install oxygenating equipment except on especially hot days.
◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use. When diluting, generally tap water can fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During the dilution process, tap water can be directly used to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to volatilize, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to volatilize quickly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left standing indoors for a period of time to prevent plant roots from root hair damage caused by sudden temperature changes, which would cause the plant to wilt.
◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of plant root hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction with sufficient water. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water; in order to protect itself, its root tips grow toward deeper soil to absorb the water needed for plant growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has very obvious directionality. However, plants growing in swamps or water will not lack water, so their roots grow more randomly without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the bonsai growing toward the water. At this time, you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be more obvious. Similarly, take a bonsai already full of water roots out of its pot and use a planting basket to fix the plant, decorate with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is that simple.
◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become less and less. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more. Therefore, hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and need to change soil once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.
◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or grow poorly?
Answer: It may be caused by leaving the nutrient solution unchanged for too long, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or insufficient light. If these factors are ruled out, check whether the nutrient solution level is too high, preventing the plant roots from breathing properly and causing oxygen deprivation. If none of these apply, then we suggest you would be best off consulting a specialty store of the Hydroponic Flower King.
Exposing the Hydroponic Flower Market -- Distinguishing Real from Fake Hydroponic Flowers
At present, many companies are recruiting franchises for hydroponic flower shops, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing claims its franchise stores will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of hydroponic flowers in our country, having witnessed all this, I cannot help but air some grievances. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Right now it is the low-temperature season, when plant respiration is weak. After washing the roots and placing plants directly in water, they can be grown hydroponically for a period of time. Flood-tolerant plants such as Araceae plants can survive in water for 1-2 months. But once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration strengthens, and oxygen deprivation and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic piece bought for several dozen or several hundred yuan and taken home is just a fleeting bloom. It not only harms consumers' interests but will also greatly affect the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception tactics" involved.
1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flood tolerance. After their roots are washed and they are placed directly in water, no signs of distress can be seen in the plant for a time, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain a balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the roots will suffer oxygen deprivation, become foul-smelling, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial habits, this method simply cannot work. So this is the main reason why they can currently only use Araceae plants to "deceive" people. Their so-called induction solution, I think, would sound better and be more honest if called a "deception solution." It is simply impossible for a plant's tissue structure to change within a few minutes.
2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could dominate the market and franchising would truly have meaning. But the franchising now can be said to be a money scam. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just washing roots and soaking them in water. Even a fool could see how to concoct it at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has undergone decades of development and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Using franchising absolutely cannot monopolize the market. Other hydroponic flower shops can operate just the same, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is as good as gone with the wind. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultured seedlings after root washing. It might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.
3. Note: In late autumn, winter, and early spring, Araceae plants can also be grown in water for a period of time after their roots are washed. Everyone might as well give it a try. There is simply no need for any deception solution.
I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries abroad with relatively advanced hydroponic technology. The current hydroponic market in our country can be said to be full of charlatans of every description, a jumble of the genuine and the fake. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep their eyes open and not be led astray by deception solutions.
How to Distinguish Real from Fake Hydroponic Flowers
Real versus fake hydroponic flowers is essentially the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower dealers do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some ordinary soil-cultured plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological distress not long after being grown, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish real from fake in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.
A. Judge real from fake by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots. They will not, like roots in soil, be divided into taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs, that is, they will not exist as multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots. Few orders and a simple root structure are its most obvious features. In addition, for some plants that originally had a radicle, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, meaning the proportion of roots rises greatly, and the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.
B. Judge real from fake by root color: Plant water roots formed through aquatic induction mostly have the characteristic of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties whose roots show their natural color, their water roots are still noticeably lighter in color than soil roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, or pale brown. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have undergone little or no thickening by suberization and lignification.
C. Judge real from fake by root integrity: Roots that have undergone aquatic induction grow and differentiate anew starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, so the root system is complete. For some soil-cultured plants, even if they have been carefully rinsed, there are always slight injuries or severely damaged residual roots. This kind of root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.
D. Judge real from fake by water clarity: In counterfeit hydroponic pieces made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not developed adaptability to water, under anaerobic conditions it will undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, it appears murky rather than clear, that is, the water quality deteriorates or becomes foul, and then the roots rot until the seedlings die.
E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge real from fake: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene show, after induction, a noticeably more flattened leaf attachment angle than soil-washed seedlings grown in soil, that is, epinastic growth leads to an increased angle, or even drooping.
Increasing the Dissolved Oxygen Content of Hydroponic Nutrient Solution
Apart from light, temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors, which are required in exactly the same way as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers differ vastly in management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen. -- Water: Home-grown hydroponic flowers should use soft water as their water source. Generally, tap water meeting national standards may be used. Tap water has been filtered, settled, and sterilized, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are severely eutrophic, and may differ greatly in various ions. If one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home-grown hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements. Inorganic salts are in ionic form and are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have an appropriate pH, which facilitates nutrient absorption. It is inadvisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even less permissible to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home-grown hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and the dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution. 2. Oxygenate by shaking: hold the flower plant steady with one hand and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or an oxygen pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. In such an environment, plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are prompted to grow robustly.
See Through Fake Hydroponic Flower Technology at a Glance
For hydroponic flowers, growing flowers and fish together, combining movement and stillness, is the first impression it gives. The earlier concept in China first emerged around the turn of the 21st century (although some people had earlier grown some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and similar easily water-grown plants in water, this concept does not belong to the "hydroponic flowers" concept popular today!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning in this industry. In addition, after "Hydroponic Flowers" was broadcast on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it became red-hot from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China: some provided technical study and training, some had production bases, and some opened franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, spurred by profit, put on shows in the market. On one hand, this added fuel to the hype surrounding the domestic hydroponic flower market concept and let many citizens understand and become aware of this newly emerging concept and product. On the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this market tide. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide, and those who survived were very few. However, as a fashionable flower product, hydroponic flowers represent a new trend and new current in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators present in the market!
The author has been in this trade for three or four years and is relatively familiar with this industry. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the general public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:
2. What Are True Hydroponic Flowers?
Sensory-wise, using glass vases of various shapes and sizes, with plants and flowers grown on top (at present, the range of varieties for hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody, vine, and succulent plants), and a few cute little fish kept below, these are hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, true hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer-based, and other technical means so that the physiological characteristics of their root systems change, they have plant aerenchyma tissue water roots, and they can adapt to long-term cultivation in water. Only then can they become true hydroponic flowers (plants)!
3. How to Identify True Hydroponic Flowers?
Judging by the senses:
Report on the Current Status of Hydroponic Flower Technology 1. Introduction:
For a successful true hydroponic plant, the plant root system after induction and acclimation should have white, elegant roots with many fibrous roots, clearly very different from soil-cultured plants. The roots of soil-cultured plants are mostly relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root color has its own unique color, such as red-flowered loropetalum, which after induction is deep red from its roots to its branches and stem segments! There are also some plants whose roots, after the soil is removed, are nearly white!)
In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and was put there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it still cannot be sold as a commodity!
Judging by technology:
Judging by technology:
1) Does it possess a professional technical level?
If it is as some merchants say: you only need a so-called "induction solution," "acclimation solution," or "nutrient solution," soak the plant in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, such claims can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if plant roots are severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, then ferment, and rot. As a result, large amounts of fermentation products accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, worms appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only by truly achieving the induction of plant water roots, forming aerenchyma tissue, and producing hydroponic plants that can adapt well to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. Moreover, the cultivation of water roots cannot be fully completed and achieved by nutrient solution alone. It requires a combination of biological, physical, computer-based, and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation and complete adaptation to the water environment, can it become professional true hydroponic flowers!
2) Does it have relatively strong artistic composition level and ability?
Hydroponic flowers belong to mid- to high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistically composed combinations and arrangements. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shaping, white and elegant roots, and the perfect combination and arrangement of fish, water plants, and other decorations in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, apart from natural sensory appeal, relatively strong artistic composition cannot be put together by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether a manufacturer possesses such an aesthetic level!
3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?
Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor a manufacturer with strength and brand as a supply source, then such a provider of hydroponic flowers is very likely just making "hydroponic flowers" from soil-cultured plants after washing their roots!
Checking by variety:
The varieties of hydroponic flowers that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to those Araceae and Crassulaceae plants such as peace lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Rohdea japonica, which are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are naturally close to water and water-loving, and ordinary methods can achieve cultivation in water. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponic cultivation of all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus ball, money tree, Polyscias fruticosa, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, and so on! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it must not be a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!
Checking by time:
Time is the final and only standard for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are only a fleeting show, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce within just a few hours after washing away the soil-cultured root system. Before long, the flower blooms, fades, and falls! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for the product, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the product, it is recommended not to buy, to avoid being cheated!
4. How to Identify a Truly Professional Hydroponic Flower Producer?
Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" methods in publicity and in information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to deprive so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology-transfer companies that fight in one place and then move to another of any footing -- companies that do not have real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, and that rent a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), scientific research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Veteran Cadre Bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money. It also aims to deprive malicious sellers who transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of a market for deception, and even more so to enable you to learn these several genuine technologies.
The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open and be extra vigilant. Look at several more, and compare more. You must carefully compare unit scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service. {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees. Try as much as possible to go see a franchisee to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think thrice before acting. This is the most direct and final way to judge. Of course, besides this, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "academic shills," "housing shills," and "drinking shills," fool you with the skill of the "great deceiver" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; you must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training capability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product itself, in fact everyone only needs to be a little more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following few points of experience, and several types
How to Apply Fertilizer to Hydroponic Flowers Through the Roots
Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen-deficient conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface.
A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and twice during the growth period, which can make hydroponic flowers thrive with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface once a week until the flowers open.