What to do when the leaves of the Peace Tree droop? Watering, repotting and temperature control can restore it to normal
Normally, the leaves of the Peace Tree are upright and glossy, but sometimes you may encounter drooping leaves. So what should you do when the leaves of the Peace Tree droop? You need to first figure out what is causing the drooping, then take the corresponding measures to restore it to normal
Normally, the leaves of the Peace Tree are upright and glossy, but sometimes you may encounter drooping leaves. So what should you do when the leaves of the Peace Tree droop? You need to first figure out what is causing the drooping, then take the corresponding measures to restore it to normal.
What to do when the leaves of the Peace Tree droop
The leaf growth of the Peace Tree is affected by many factors, so there are many reasons for drooping. So what should you do when the leaves of the Peace Tree droop? Only by finding the cause can you truly solve the problem. In the process of leaf drooping, there is both normal drooping and abnormal drooping. Below we will explain from these 2 aspects.
I. Normal drooping
So-called normal drooping refers to leaf drooping that is not caused by the cultivation method of the Peace Tree. For example, a newly purchased Peace Tree showing drooping due to a change of potting soil is a normal phenomenon. You can check whether its roots show signs of rot and blackening; if not, then the drooping is not caused by disease.
Solution: Place the Peace Tree in a ventilated spot and water it, following the principle of watering the soil thoroughly so that the entire pot stays moist, while letting excess water drain out from the bottom. Never let water accumulate in the pot. Generally after 1 day, the drooping leaves will improve.
II. Abnormal drooping
1. Caused by light
Normal growth of the Peace Tree requires sufficient light. If it is kept for a long time in an environment with insufficient light, the leaves will droop.
Solution: Move it to a window or balcony; in summer it needs to be shaded.
2. Caused by temperature
We know that the most suitable temperature for the Peace Tree is 20-30 degrees. If the temperature is too low or too high, the leaves may droop.
Solution: Observe the temperature of the environment where the Peace Tree is located. If it is because it is too cold or the temperature is too high, the ambient temperature should be adjusted promptly.
3. Caused by overwatering
The Peace Tree likes a moist environment, so its water requirements are relatively high, and watering frequently is one method. But sometimes too much watering causes problems with its roots, such as rotting, and so on, which produces a series of chain reactions. The most intuitive feeling is drooping leaves.
Solution: When watering the Peace Tree, be sure not to overdo it. Just make sure the potting soil is moist; do not pour too much water at one time. In winter, water less and you can use the method of misting.
4. Caused by soil alkalinity being too high
Although the Peace Tree does not have high soil requirements, it prefers acidic soil and may not adapt well to alkaline soil. Therefore, growing the Peace Tree in the north easily leads to drooping leaves. At this point, what should you do when the leaves of the Peace Tree droop? The answer is to change the soil or change the watering strategy.
Solution: When watering, you can add acidic substances to the water, such as ferrous sulfate, vinegar, and so on. After a period of time, the acidity in the soil will increase and the leaves will gradually return to normal.
Summary: Leaf drooping is caused by problems with light, temperature, soil and watering. Of course, a newly purchased Peace Tree may also show this condition. When facing these problems, you should find the cause as early as possible and then take reasonable measures to avoid the drooping phenomenon becoming more and more serious.
Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures
Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures 1Rubber Tree[Aliases] Large-leaf Green, Red Burma Tree, Red-mouth Rubber Tree, Indian Rubber Fig
[Family and genus] Moraceae, Ficus
[Place of origin] China
[Morphological characteristics] Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 m. Stem hairless, with milky sap. Leaves thick, leathery, with long petioles; leaves oblong or elliptical
[Growing medium] Sandy loam rich in humus is preferable
[Watering] Just keep the soil normally on the dry side or slightly moist. Summer is the stage when the Rubber Tree needs the most water, so it can be watered more. Winter is the period when the Rubber Tree needs the least water, so supply less water
[Fertilizing] During the vigorous growing season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. should be applied as topdressing
[Light] The Rubber Tree likes strong direct sunlight and also tolerates shady environments. However, during cultivation it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight each day. If conditions permit, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full-day sunlight
[Ventilation] Just keep the environment properly ventilated
[Temperature] The Rubber Tree likes high-temperature environments, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The ambient temperature should be kept between 20-30 degrees. When the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees, the Rubber Tree is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees
[Disease control] The Rubber Tree is prone to anthracnose, whose pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or elliptical gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins, and in severe cases the lesions merge into one patch and spread to the entire leaf. The control method is to avoid mechanical damage to the plant and reduce opportunities for the pathogen to infect the plant; promptly remove diseased leaves to prevent spread; prune reasonably so that the tree maintains a natural open-center form and achieves good light penetration and ventilation.Asparagus Fern
Asparagus Fern, also known as Cloud-leaf Bamboo and Mountain Grass, belongs to Liliaceae, Asparagus.
Origin and habits: Asparagus Fern is native to South Africa. It likes warm, moist and semi-shaded conditions, and does not tolerate drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus and with good drainage.
Morphological characteristics: Asparagus Fern is a perennial herbaceous plant with smooth, soft and slender stems that are climbing in form. The leaves are fine, spreading horizontally, small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves are reduced to scales or spines. Flowers small, bisexual, white. Berries spherical, purple-black. The flowering period is mostly in February-March or June-July, and some bloom twice.
Propagation techniques: Asparagus Fern is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Sowing is carried out in March-April, and the seeds are soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow in spots in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, maintain a temperature of 20-25°C and keep the potting soil moist; germination can occur in 20-30 days. When seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted in a greenhouse or potted up. Large 4-5-year-old plants can be propagated by division in spring.
Management techniques: Asparagus Fern is a shade plant and should not be placed in places with too strong light, otherwise the branches and leaves are easily scorched yellow. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the potting soil alternating between moist and dry; generally watering so that the surface soil is moist is enough. In dry seasons, spray more clean water on the leaf surface. Asparagus Fern likes fertilizer; every 10-15 days apply 1 time a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and potassium, or watered milk residue. Asparagus Fern grows quickly, so weak, overly dense, old branches and dead stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which helps ventilation and maintains a low posture. Asparagus Fern can also be planted in bamboo tubes, whose water permeability and water retention are both good, so there is no need to drill holes in the bottom of the pot.
Ornamental value: Asparagus Fern is mainly grown in pots for its foliage. It is fresh and elegant, and when placed in a study it shows even more of a scholarly atmosphere. The roots, stems and leaves of Asparagus Fern can all be used as medicine, and can be collected throughout the year. Its branches and leaves are slender, upright and graceful, with a balanced mix of dense and sparse fresh green, and a free and easy posture. It is a good accompanying material for cut flowers, bouquets and flower baskets.Areca Palm
Family and genus: Arecaceae, Dypsis, evergreen shrub.
Origin and habits: Native to Madagascar, Africa; mostly potted in various parts of China. The Areca Palm likes a warm and humid environment, likes light and is also fairly shade-tolerant. Height growth is slow while crown development is relatively fast, and natural pruning is good. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam and avoids alkaline soil.
Morphological characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. Stems branch from the ground, with ring patterns; leaves spread in an arch shape, up to 2 m long; petioles smooth, yellow; pinnae lanceolate, 60 cm long, soft at the tip, with 3 raised main veins on the back; flowers small, in strings, golden yellow, flowering period March-April.
Propagation techniques: Areca Palm can be propagated by sowing or division. Generally, potted plants mostly use division propagation. Division propagation can be done in all four seasons, but autumn is best. Select well-developed stems from a robust mother plant, cut them away from the mother plant at the roots, and transplant them into a new pot to re-establish. Newly established plants, because the root system has not yet developed well, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately, spray water on the leaf surface several times a day, and keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at about 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.
Management techniques: Indoor potted Areca Palm should use slightly acidic soil; in the north, attention should be paid to selecting sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of "dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly" according to the season; in dry and hot seasons water appropriately more, while in low-temperature rainy weather control watering. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, attention should be paid to regularly using black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons; in summer appropriately topdress with nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer, and in winter apply organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue. Rotate the flower pot regularly, often prune the lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C. When it is below 5 degrees for a long time, it will suffer frost damage.
Ornamental value: The Areca Palm plant is tall, with drooping, emerald-green leaves and a free and easy posture, evergreen in all four seasons. When potted and arranged in conference venues, halls and rooms, it appears especially majestic and reflects a tropical scene. This species is good material for park and courtyard landscaping in South China. In places such as Hong Kong, China and Macao, China, because its leaves grow radially in all directions, it is also regarded as a symbol of a career "flourishing in all directions." It is highly favored.Giant Taro (Drip Guanyin)
Drip Guanyin is a commercial name. When the soil water content is high, water drips down from the leaf tips or leaf edges, so many places call it Drip Guanyin. This plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of Araceae, Alocasia - Alocasia macrorrhizos. It is native to the subtropics. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, and is not cold-tolerant. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin in China, it is all grown in pots and moved indoors before winter. Giant Taro does not have high soil requirements, but grows best in well-drained sandy loam or humus loam containing organic matter. Generally, the potting soil mostly uses a mixed soil of leaf mold, peat soil and coarse sand at 2:2:1. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist, and apply 1-2 times per month a dilute liquid fertilizer of N, P and K mainly of N. In summer, place it in a semi-shaded, ventilated spot and often spray water around it and on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature and keep the leaves clean. In winter, stop fertilizing and control the frequency of watering. Giant Taro grows very fast, so during its growth process fertilizer and water must be appropriate to avoid the lower part of the stem becoming bare, which affects ornamental value.Malabar Chestnut (Money Tree)
[Aliases] Money Tree, Chinese Kapok, Chestnut Tree, American Peanut
[Family and genus] Bombacaceae, Pachira
[Place of origin] Central America, from Mexico to Costa Rica
[Soil] Well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is best
[Light] The Money Tree is not strict about light and can adapt fairly well whether in strong light or weak light indoors. However, full-day sunlight can make leaf nodes shorter and the plant shape compact and full. With insufficient light, the cultivated tree body grows more slowly. Do not suddenly move the plant from shade to strong light, otherwise the leaves will be sunburned and the edges scorched, affecting appearance
[Temperature] The Money Tree likes a warm and humid climate. Generally, 15-30 degrees is most suitable during the growing stage. In winter it should be moved indoors to overwinter, and preferably the room temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees
[Watering] The Money Tree should generally be kept normally moist; remember that it should not be too wet, to avoid root rot. In summer, a Money Tree placed indoors should be watered 1 time every 3-5 days; in spring and autumn, water 1 time every 5-8 days; in winter, watering should be restrained, and keeping the potting soil slightly moist is enough
[Fertilizing] Normally apply organic liquid fertilizer 1 time every 2-3 months. A multi-element compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can also be applied to promote thickening of the stem base and improve ornamental value. The high-temperature and high-humidity season in summer is very favorable for the growth of the Money Tree, so fertilizer and water management should be strengthened at this stage
[Economic value] The Money Tree has a graceful plant shape, bright green leaves and a spindle-shaped tree form. It can be woven into many shapes and can also be made into bonsai of various postures with unique styles. Because its seeds contain oil, it was once widely promoted in tropical regions as a woody oil plantParlor Palm
[Aliases] Dwarf Palm, Dwarf Coconut, Parlor Coconut Palm, Parlor Palm
[Family and genus] Arecoideae, Chamaedorea
[Place of origin] Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature, high humidity and semi-shaded environments; does not tolerate strong light and is not very cold-tolerant
[Soil] Requires well-drained, fertile, moist soil. Repot 1 time every 2 years in spring. When repotting, because the roots are very fine, too much root damage should be avoided, as it affects recovery and growth
[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees; at 13 degrees it enters dormancy; the overwintering temperature is 10 degrees. It fears direct sunlight and does not tolerate drought. Under strong sun its leaf color will fade or turn yellow, and in severe cases sunburn occurs, producing scorched leaves and black spots and losing ornamental value
[Fertilizing and watering] This species has a growing period from March to September. Water promptly to keep the potting soil moist, but watering should follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In summer and autumn, when the air is dry and the temperature is high, the leaf surface also needs to be sprayed with water often to increase air humidity. During dormancy, water less so the pot surface stays slightly dry. During the growing season, fertilize 1-2 times per month, and stop fertilizing at the end of September
[Economic value] This species has a small and exquisite plant shape, a graceful and elegant form, emerald-green and glossy leaves, strong shade tolerance, and is full of tropical flavorKing Palm
[Family and genus] Arecoideae, Ravenea
[Place of origin] Eastern Madagascar
[Growth habits] Grows in swampy areas and along riverbanks with sufficient rain and sunlight. It likes environments with sufficient light and sufficient water, and is also fairly cold-tolerant and shade-tolerant
[Soil] It is not strict about soil, but loose, fertile and well-drained soil is more favorable for its growth
[Temperature] It grows rapidly when sunlight and water are sufficient. The suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees. When potted, it can be moved indoors to overwinter in cold regions
[Fertilizing] It likes magnesium fertilizer. Topdress 1 time per month to keep the leaves emerald green; when magnesium is deficient, the leaves turn yellow
[Economic value] This species has a thick trunk and a graceful, light plant shape, emerald green and beautiful, with pinnate compound leaves resembling feathers. At the same time, because it adapts to a wide range of areas and grows well, it is an increasingly popular landscaping tree species. Potted for indoor display, it has a very tropical feelUmbrella Tree
[Aliases] Duck-foot Wood, Hand Tree
[Family and genus] Araliaceae, Schefflera
[Place of origin] New Hebrides, South Pacific
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity
[Soil] The cultivation soil is preferably well-drained loam or sandy loam
[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is about 20-28 degrees. The temperature should generally not be lower than 12 degrees, nor higher than 30 degrees. If the winter temperature is too low, it will drop leaves and lose ornamental value. When the temperature drops to 5 degrees, heat preservation is needed. In summer, avoid strong direct sunlight all day. It should be placed in a bright indoor spot, but direct sunlight must be avoided. In a dark place, the yellow-white patches of variegated varieties will gradually disappear. After direct strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off. When planting on a balcony, shade is needed in spring and summer, and light is needed in autumn and winter
[Watering and fertilizing] In spring and autumn, the potting soil should preferably alternate between dry and wet; in summer, mainly wet; in winter, mainly dry. There is not much selectivity regarding water quality. The growing period is mainly from April to October; fertilize 1 time every half month
[Economic value] The Umbrella Tree has oil-green leaves in palmate compound form, leathery and glossy; variegated varieties are yellow and green interspersed, making it an ideal indoor ornamental plant. The Umbrella Tree tolerates pruning and has strong sprouting ability. The plant posture is elegant, and especially when used to beautify a room it can compare with high-end flower varieties. Umbrella Tree flowers are a winter nectar source, and the root bark and leaves can also be used medicinallyClustered Fishtail Palm
[Aliases] Clustered Fishtail Palm, Wine Coconut
[Family and genus] Arecaceae, Caryota
[Place of origin] Guangdong, Guangxi and Hainan in China, Indochina Peninsula, India
[Growth habits] A semi-sun tree species that grows poorly under strong sunlight. It likes warm, highly humid and well-ventilated environments and has relatively strong cold tolerance, making it one of the more cold-tolerant palm plants
[Soil] It has relatively strong growth vigor and a well-developed root system, and is not strict about soil conditions. When potted, equal parts garden soil and humus soil can be mixed as the medium. Generally repot once every 1-2 years. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, cut off some old roots, replant with new soil, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer
[Temperature] The suitable growth temperature is 18-30 degrees; the overwintering temperature is 3 degrees. It can endure short periods of low temperature of -1 to -2 degrees; being below this temperature for a long time will cause frost damage
[Light] It is a light-loving plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the growing period. It has relatively strong adaptability to light and is also suitable for cultivation and appreciation in brighter indoor spots
[Watering] The roots are semi-succulent and have relatively strong drought resistance. During the growing period from March to October, water 1 time per day. In other seasons, watering should be kept moderate between dry and wet. Never let water accumulate in the potting soil, to avoid root rot. During dormancy, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist. Under dry climate conditions, spray water on the leaf surface to ensure the leaves are deep green and glossy
[Fertilizing] During the growing period, generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1-2 times per month to promote vigorous plant growth
[Economic value] This species is clustered, grows very vigorously, has a graceful and varied plant shape, luxuriant branches and leaves, a full tree form with a strong sense of layering, peculiar leaf shape and deep green leaf color. It is an excellent indoor greenery decoration plant. It is often planted in medium and large pots and placed in lobbies, entrance halls, meeting rooms and other places, with extraordinary style. The pith of the stem contains starch, which can be made into "sago" for eating. The inflorescence sap can be used to make sugar and brew winePothos
Pothos is also called Stone Orange. Araceae, large evergreen climbing vine plant. Native to the Solomon Islands, in tropical regions it often climbs on rocks and tree trunks in fish forests and can grow into a huge vine plant. The green leaves have yellow patches.
Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and beautiful, just like emerald reliefs. The bright-colored green decoration is full of vitality and adds a warm touch of interest to the room.
It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying rooms. Placed indoors, it can make the room full of vitality.
Temperature: Likes a warm environment; minimum overwintering temperature 10-13°C; variegated Pothos 16°C.
Light: Likes a semi-shaded environment; can grow well in relatively bright rooms; excellent variegated varieties easily die under weak light conditions.
Water: In spring, summer and autumn, there should be sufficient water in the potting soil; water when the surface 1-2 cm of potting soil becomes dry; in winter when the temperature is low, reduce watering.
Air humidity: Likes high temperature and high humidity; spray water on the plant often.
Repotting: Repot in spring as needed.
Propagation: In spring and summer, cuttings from branches root easily; for making totem poles, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that they take shape relatively quickly.Dracaena
The scientific name of Dracaena is Dracaena fragrans, with aliases Brazil Iron Tree, Brazil Millennium Wood, Golden-edged Dracaena fragrans. It is a plant of Liliaceae, Dracaena.
Origin and habits: Dracaena is native to tropical regions. It likes environments with sufficient light, high temperature and high humidity, and is also shade-tolerant and drought-tolerant. It also grows well in bright scattered light and in the relatively dry environment of northern rooms.
Morphological characteristics: Dracaena is an evergreen tree with a neat plant shape and upright stem. Leaves clustered at the top of the stem, 40-90 cm long and 6-10 cm wide, slightly blunt at the tip, curved into a bow shape, with bright yellow or milky white stripes; leaf edges bright green, with wavy undulations, glossy. Flowers small. Yellow-green, fragrant.
Propagation techniques: Dracaena propagation uses the cutting method. Use branches pruned from poorer-shaped stems as cutting material, cut into 5-10 cm sections, and insert them upright or flat on a cutting bed with coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be grown in water to promote rooting. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water. The cut surface should be smooth. The upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end is immersed 2-3 cm into water. The temperature should be above 25°C, and the water and container should be kept clean. Tip cuttings with leaves root relatively quickly and can root and be potted in 3-4 weeks; stem sections root relatively slowly, and sometimes it takes 2-3 months to grow new roots and new buds.
Management techniques: As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, Dracaena can grow in all four seasons. In summer high temperatures, appropriate shading is needed. In winter, room temperature must not be lower than 5°C. But it is best to let it go dormant in winter; the dormancy temperature is 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and leaf edges. When placing Dracaena indoors, it should be in a place with sufficient light. If the light is too weak, the markings on the leaves will turn green, and the basal leaves will turn yellow, losing ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean and water 1-2 times per week. Too much water is not good, to prevent trunk rot. In summer high temperatures, spray misting can be used to increase air humidity and spray water on the leaves to keep them moist.
During the growing period, Dracaena should be appropriately given foliar topdressing, spraying the leaves with nutrient diluted 100 times, once every half month. After several years of cultivation, when the plant is too tall or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off and the plant shape is poor, pruning should be carried out. Repot or change the soil every year in early spring. If the environment is unsuitable, potted Dracaena may be harmed by red spiders, thrips, scale insects, and so on. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering and excessive fertilizing can all cause scorched leaf tips.
Ornamental value: Dracaena is a fairly popular indoor large potted flowering and foliage plant, especially when placed in a relatively spacious living room, study or sitting room; it has an elegant and simple style and carries a southern-country mood. It is a new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful, neat plant shape that is world-famous.Peacock Plant
Also known as Variegated Arrowroot, it is a foliage plant of Marantaceae, Maranta. It has tubers at the base, plant height 20-30 cm, leaves long elliptical, leaf surface green-white, with relatively original brown markings along the edges of the midrib, leaves evergreen all year round, with a unique metallic luster; the brown patches are like a peacock displaying its tail, with fresh, gorgeous and soft colors, making it a common indoor foliage plant. Many plants in this genus have relatively high ornamental value and are important plants used to decorate indoor environments around the world. Common varieties include:
(1) Variegated Arrowroot. Also known as Variegated Arrowroot, leaves long elliptical, large and thin, leaf surface green like velvet, with zebra-striped feather-like stripes on both sides of the leaf midrib, leaf back purplish red.
(2) Red-backed prayer plant. Leaves broadly elliptical, surface green, markings not obvious, leaf undersides purplish-red.
(3) Variegated prayer plant. Also called arrow-feather prayer plant, leaf surface green, with pale yellow feather-like stripes on both sides of the midrib, leaf undersides deep purple, flowers pale yellow.
(4) White-spotted prayer plant. Plant height 50-60 cm, stems weak, leaves large and thin, ovate-lanceolate, with irregular white patches on the green leaves.
(5) Double-line prayer plant. Also called red-feather prayer plant, leaves long elliptical, surface pale green, with white or peach-pink parallel double-line stripes on both sides of the midrib, very beautiful.
The peacock prayer plant is native to the Americas. It likes semi-shade and a hot, humid environment, and is not cold-tolerant. The optimum growing temperature is 20-30°C; above 35°C or below 7°C is unfavorable for growth. The overwintering temperature must not be too low, otherwise the leaves tend to curl. It requires loose soil rich in humus with good drainage.
Prayer plants are mainly propagated by division, mostly carried out in spring in April-May together with repotting. Division should not be done too early, otherwise the low temperature easily damages the roots and affects survival and growth. When dividing, separate into 2-3 clumps per plant; too few will affect growth. After planting, water thoroughly once and place in a semi-shaded spot for care. Before new roots emerge, control watering and do not make the soil too wet.
For potted soil, mix 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, and add a small amount of soybean cake as base fertilizer. When potting, first place 3 cm of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.
From May to September, shade the plants during growth or place them in semi-shade, maintaining a light transmittance of 40%-60%, and avoid direct scorching sun, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched or the edges become scorched and curled. If placed indoors for a long time, low temperature and insufficient light will also cause weak growth and loss of the unique luster on the leaf surface. In winter, it can receive direct sunlight through glass.
Prayer plants have high humidity requirements. During routine care, place the flower pot on an upside-down flower pot, and frequently spray water on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the surroundings and ground moist, so as to increase environmental humidity. Water before the potting soil dries out completely, otherwise the leaves easily curl and scorch at the edges due to dryness. During the peak growing season, apply a dilute cake fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer once a week; do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer. During high summer temperatures, apply a thin fertilizer once every half month; stop fertilizing when the temperature is below 15°C. During care, maintain good ventilation, otherwise scale insects easily occur, affecting stem and leaf growth and reducing ornamental value.
The peacock prayer plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Its leaves have feather-like markings alternating dark green with white or pale yellow, and a unique metallic luster, resembling the tail feathers of a peacock, hence the name. The peacock prayer plant is small and graceful in form, with fresh and gorgeous leaf colors, making it outstanding among foliage plants. For potting, choose a growing medium mixed evenly with leaf mold, garden soil and a small amount of river sand. During the growth period, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks. When fertilizing, be careful not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer; generally the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 2:1:1, which makes the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Soilless culture can also be used, applying nutrient solution 1-2 times a month during the growth period. Water to keep the potting soil moist. The peacock prayer plant likes humid air, so pay attention to methods such as spraying and sprinkling water to increase air humidity, especially in summer, and pay even more attention to increasing humidity and lowering temperature to facilitate growth. For home cultivation, it can be placed in a bright indoor spot; never expose it to strong direct light, otherwise the leaf edges easily scorch. If kept for a long time in a dim spot, the leaves will lose their unique luster. In winter, place it in a well-lit spot, and also pay attention to cold protection; room temperature should be kept above 13°C, stop fertilizing, and control watering. In northern winters, indoor air is dry, so besides spraying and washing the leaf surface with cool boiled water once every 3-5 days, it is best to cover it with a plastic film cover at night to keep it warm and moist. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to increase indoor humidity. To maintain its gorgeous leaf color, also frequently gently wipe the leaves with clean water. The peacock prayer plant is mostly propagated by division. When dividing, it is best to plant 3-5 plants per pot.
Image:Image:Peace lily (Spathiphyllum kochii)
Also known as white sail, spathe lily, white flag, and snowflower. Araceae, Spathiphyllum genus. Native to tropical regions of the Americas.
Morphological characteristics: perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm. Leaves basal, leathery, long elliptical or broadly lanceolate, with long tips, deep green leaf color. Leaves 20-30 cm long, about 10 cm wide, petioles about 30 cm long, veins obvious. Because the spathe, curled into a spoon shape, is white as a snow lotus and shaped like joined palms, it is called white palm; because its pure white spathe resembles a white boat raising its sail on green water, it carries the blessing meaning of smooth sailing in social interactions, to encourage progress in life and career success.
The peace lily is very similar to the white anthurium, also having white spathes, but the leaves and the spathe of the flower differ somewhat. The spathe of the peace lily does not turn outward but curls inward, and the ovate spathe is not as bright and leathery as that of the white anthurium.
Cultivated hybrids of the same genus include: perfumed white palm: its flowers have a faint fragrance. Green Giant white palm: also called Green Giant, the plant is taller than the peace lily, the leaves are larger than those of the peace lily, and the parallel feather-like lateral veins are more obvious, thus appearing more vigorous, and it is a trendy indoor potted plant.
Habits: likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment, never expose to direct sunlight, and fears cold. Avoids heavy clay soil; prefers sandy loam rich in humus.
Cultivation and management: The peace lily is fairly shade-tolerant; as long as there is about 60% scattered light it can meet its growth needs, so it can be kept year-round indoors in a spot with bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded out; avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases sunscald will occur. In northern winter greenhouse cultivation, no shading or little shading is needed. If the light is too dim for a long time, it is not easy to flower. The peace lily is a high-temperature-loving species and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. In winter, the nighttime minimum temperature should be 14-16°C, and daytime should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperature easily causes leaf drop or scorched-yellow appearance.
During the growth period, keep the potting soil moist, but avoid overwatering and long-term soggy potting soil, otherwise root rot and plant yellowing and withering easily occur. In summer and dry seasons, frequently spray water on the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle sprayer, and sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow and fall off. In winter, control watering, and it is suitable for the potting soil to be slightly moist.
During the peak growing season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 1-2 weeks, which is beneficial both for robust plant growth and for continuous flowering. In northern winters with low temperatures, stop fertilizing.
For potting soil, mix evenly leaf mold or peat soil with about 1/4 river sand or perlite, and add a small amount of bone meal or cake residue as base fertilizer. The potting soil should be loose with good drainage and aeration. Generally, repot once each year in early spring before a large number of new buds sprout; when repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new growing medium and plant in a pot one size larger, to facilitate root development and vigorous growth.
Propagation: can be propagated by division and sowing, and can also be mass-propagated by tissue culture.
1. Division propagation: because the peace lily readily produces suckers, this method is mostly used for propagation. Vigorous plants can be divided about once every 2 years. Before new buds emerge in early spring, tip the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut apart the rhizome at the base of the clump. Each small clump should preferably have more than 3 stems and buds, and should carry as many roots as possible, to facilitate faster new leaf emergence and a full plant shape.
2. Seed propagation: this method is not difficult either. In a greenhouse, seeds can be obtained through artificial pollination. After the seeds mature, sow them as soon as they are harvested; the sowing temperature should be around 25°C, as low temperature easily causes the seeds to rot.
Pests and diseases: excessive fertilizer and frost damage easily cause yellow leaf tips. At this point, the soil should be changed immediately.Image:Marianne dumb cane
Dumb cane types are also called variegated dieffenbachia and silver-spotted dieffenbachia, native to tropical America. Plant height 30-90 cm, flowers upright, internodes short, leaves long elliptical with slightly wavy margins, leaf surface scattered with various milky white or milky yellow markings or spots; shade-tolerant, with graceful green leaf color. Main cultivated varieties include Marianne, KIKI, Golden Sun, White Jade, Duozai Zebra, Golden Treasure, and Heaven Dieffenbachia.
The optimum growing temperature for dumb cane is 25-30°C, with daytime temperature at 30°C and nighttime temperature at 25°C. The range in which it can grow is 18-30°C from February to September, and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the leaves are easily damaged by cold.
Dumb cane likes an environmental humidity of 80%. When the soil dries to 2 cm at the surface, it should be watered. During the growth period, water fully and spray water on the leaf surface. If water is not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses its luster. Soil moisture is best kept alternating between dry and wet; water more in summer, and control watering in winter.
Dumb cane is shade-tolerant and afraid of sun. If the light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, and the leaf margins and leaf tips easily scorch, or even large areas are burned. If the light is too weak, the yellow-white patches turn green. It grows best under bright scattered light, and the leaf color is more vivid and beautiful.
The soil should preferably be fertile, loose loam with good drainage. For potting soil, use a mixture of leaf mold and coarse sand.
[Propagation methods] Commonly propagated by cuttings, sowing and tissue culture.
Cutting propagation: cuttings are best taken during the high-temperature period of July-August. Cut 7-10 cm of the stem tip, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, insert into a sand bed or wrap the cut end with sphagnum moss, maintain relatively high air humidity, and keep room temperature at 24-30°C. Roots form 15-25 days after insertion. After new buds sprout on the stem section, transplant into pots.
Seed propagation: dumb cane must be artificially pollinated before it sets fruit. Seeds should be sown immediately after maturity, and the seeds need to be cleaned thoroughly to avoid mildew and rot. Before sowing, the potting soil should be sterilized; after sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil, keep room temperature at 24-29°C, and germination occurs 7-14 days after sowing. Transplant when the seedlings are 3 cm tall.
Tissue culture propagation: at present, lateral buds and terminal buds have been used as explants. After routine disinfection, they are inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 3 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 2 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid; after 45 days, when adventitious buds grow to 2 cm, they are transferred to 1/2 MS medium supplemented with 2 mg/L indoleacetic acid, and roots can form in about 20-25 days, forming complete small plantlets.
[Cultivation and management] Dumb cane is commonly potted in 15-20 cm pots. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer. When room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing. If the winter temperature is below 10°C and watering is excessive, leaf drop and stem tip rot will occur. If the plant only drops leaves and the stem does not rot, then after the temperature rises it can still continue to sprout and spread leaves. After potted plants have grown for 1-2 years, there are more suckers at the base, and division propagation can be carried out together with repotting. If the plant grows tall, cut off the aboveground part leaving 2-3 nodes at the base; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a better plant shape.
[Pest and disease control] The main problems are bacterial leaf spot, brown spot and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, they can be prevented and controlled by spraying with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution.
[Post-production handling] Dumb cane has large leaves with beautiful colored markings, suitable for potted display, embellishing the living room and study, very comfortable and elegant. Used to place in public places with low light, dumb cane still grows normally, with green leaves and luxuriant branches, full of vitality, especially suitable for placement in modern buildings. Dumb cane can endure 14 days in darkness, and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.
Image:Beautiful date palm
The beautiful date palm, also called soft-leaved date palm, is a foliage plant of the palm family, Phoenix genus.
The beautiful date palm is an evergreen shrub, with a short thick stem, usually solitary, sometimes clustered, plant height 1-3 m. Leaves pinnate, upright when first emerging, slightly curved and drooping after growing a little; both sides of the petiole base have long spines and triangular protrusions, which is one of its characteristics; leaflets lanceolate, about 20-30 cm long and about 1 cm wide, relatively soft, drooping in an arc. Spadix axillary, 20-50 cm long, dioecious. Fruit about 1.5 cm long, pale green at first, jujube-red when ripe.
The beautiful date palm is native to the Indochina region, and is widely cultivated in various provinces and regions of southern China. There are about 17 species in the same genus, mainly produced in the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa. It likes a hot, humid tropical climate, likes light and is also shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, barren-tolerant, and likes fertile sandy loam with good drainage. It has relatively strong cold tolerance, and can overwinter safely at around 0°C in winter.
The beautiful date palm is mostly propagated by sowing. After flowering, pollination easily results in fruit; the fruit matures in October-November, and after harvest it is sown immediately or sown in the following spring. Sow the seeds in river sand and keep the medium moist. At 20-30°C, seedlings can emerge in 2-3 months or longer. When the seedling cotyledons reach 5-10 cm, apply dilute liquid fertilizer, then transplant into pots and strengthen water and fertilizer management.
For potting the beautiful date palm, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil and 1 part river sand mixed together as the medium, and add a small amount of base fertilizer when planting. It has strong adaptability, and both cultivation and care are simple. During the vigorous growth period from April to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month, keep the potting soil moist, and in dry air spray water on the plant once a day to increase the environmental air humidity, which is beneficial to plant growth; in other seasons, fertilize less or not at all, and keep the potting soil alternately dry and wet. From June to September, when sunlight is strong, shade it (a shading level of 50% is suitable) to prevent the leaves from turning yellow; in other seasons, give relatively sufficient light to facilitate robust plant growth. The beautiful date palm is prone to scale insects when the air is dry and ventilation is poor. If scale insects are found, they should be controlled; generally 800 times omethoate can be sprayed to kill them, while improving ventilation conditions.
The beautiful date palm has branches and leaves arching and drooping like an umbrella, with evenly distributed, green and glossy leaves; it is an excellent potted foliage plant. Using it to decorate interiors can fill them with a tropical flavor. Generally, small and medium pots are suitable for living rooms and studies, appearing elegant and generous; large potted plants are often used to decorate meeting venues and halls, appearing solemn and imposing.
Image:Cast iron plant
Scientific name: Aspidistra elatior
English name: Common Aspidistra
Aliases: spider-embracing egg, bamboo-leaf plant
Family name: Liliaceae
Morphological characteristics:
Evergreen herb, with rhizomes. Leaves elliptical-lanceolate, dark green, margins slightly wavy. Flowers bell-shaped. Flowering period April. Capsule spherical. Likes shade and cannot tolerate strong light, likes warmth and is fairly cold-tolerant, likes moisture, and prefers fertile sandy loam with good drainage.Silver Queen
Latin name: Aglaonema commulatum cv.Silvcr Queen
Aliases: silver queen dieffenbachia, silver queen Chinese evergreen, silver queen aglaonema
Botanical characteristics: > perennial herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm, stem upright and unbranched, internodes obvious. Leaves alternate, petioles long, base enlarged into a sheath, leaves narrow and long, pale green, leaf surface with gray-green streaks, relatively large in area.
Silver Queen is famous for its unique air purification ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purification ability! Therefore it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.
This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a relatively long time.
Can remove: formaldehyde, nicotine
“Silver Queen can absorb the radiation from printers.”Snake plant
The snake plant, also called tiger skin plant and thousand-year plant, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Sansevieria genus.
The underground part of the snake plant has tough rhizomes, and it has no stem. Leaves clustered, fleshy linear-lanceolate, hard leathery, upright, base slightly grooved; dark green, with horizontal bands alternating pale green and dark green on both sides, slightly covered with white powder. Raceme, flowers white to pale green, with a sweet, elegant fragrance; flowering period spring and summer. Common cultivated varieties include:
Golden-edged snake plant: shaped like the snake plant, but the leaf margins are bordered with broad golden-yellow bands.
Short-spike snake plant: a dwarf variety, plant height about 10-20 cm, a mutant of the golden-edged snake plant, with short and wide leaves growing in swirling, overlapping fashion.
Scallion-leaf snake plant: also called cylindrical snake plant. Leaves are cylindrical, roughly the same thickness from top to bottom of the whole leaf, slightly pointed and slender at the tip, leaf surface with longitudinal shallow grooves, each leaf growing independently.
The snake plant is native to arid Africa and southern Asia, and is cultivated everywhere in China. It has strong adaptability, likes warmth and humidity, is drought-tolerant, likes light and is also shade-tolerant. It is not demanding about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is better. Its optimum growing temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
The snake plant can be propagated by division and cuttings. After the temperature rises each spring, carry out division together with repotting, that is, tip the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old growing medium, expose the rhizome, and cut it along its direction into several plants, so that each plant contains at least 3-4 mature leaves, then pot them separately with new growing medium. The propagation material for cuttings is the leaf (i.e. leaf cuttings), which can be done whenever the temperature is above 15°C. Cut mature leaves crosswise into 7-8 cm long segments as cuttings, let them dry slightly, then insert into river sand. When taking cuttings, be careful not to insert them upside down; maintain a certain humidity, but it should not be too wet, to avoid rot. After about a month, adventitious buds and adventitious roots can grow from the cut end, forming new plants. Small seedlings propagated by leaf cuttings of golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edge and variegated patterns disappear, reducing ornamental value, so these varieties are not suitable for leaf-cutting propagation and can only be propagated by division.
For potting the snake plant, use equal parts leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the medium. It grows well under sufficient light; besides avoiding direct scorching sun in midsummer, it should receive more sunlight in other seasons; if placed in a too-dim indoor spot for too long, the leaves will become dull and lack vitality. In addition, if it has been placed indoors for a long time, it should not suddenly be moved directly into the sunlight; first move it to a brighter spot to let it have an adaptation process before exposing it to sunlight, so as to avoid burning the leaves. Watering should be moderate, following the principle of preferring dry over wet. Usually wipe dust off the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and glossy. In spring, when new plants sprout at the root crown, water appropriately more to keep the potting soil moist; in the high-temperature summer season, also keep the potting soil moist frequently; after late autumn, control the amount of watering and keep the potting soil relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; during the growing season apply dilute liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.
The snake plant has firm, upright leaves, with gray-white and dark green tiger-tail-like horizontal band markings on the leaf surface, with a resolute and peculiar, interesting posture; it has many varieties, and plant shape and leaf color vary greatly, exquisite and unique; it has strong adaptability to the environment and is a tenacious plant, widely cultivated and used, and is a common indoor potted foliage plant. It is suitable for decorating and arranging studies, living rooms, and office reception places, and can be appreciated for a relatively long time.Lucky bamboo
Lucky bamboo, also called Sander's dracaena, is a foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Dracaena genus. Lucky bamboo is an evergreen small tree, with no rhizome underground, and roots are yellowish-brown. The markings and colors on the leaf surface differ by variety. Common cultivated varieties include: golden-edged lucky bamboo: leaf margins golden yellow, center green. It likes a hot, humid environment, is not strict about light, likes light and is also shade-tolerant. Suitable for sandy loam with good drainage. The optimum growing temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Lucky bamboo is propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are mostly taken together with shaping and pruning. As lucky bamboo grows taller over the years, the leaves at the base of the stem often fall off and the plant shape deteriorates; during the growing season, cut the stem into 5-10 cm lengths as cuttings, insert them into vermiculite or river sand, and generally roots and sprouts form in 1-2 weeks.
For potting lucky bamboo, plant in an equal mixture of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand, or use coconut coir and leaf mold plus a small amount of base fertilizer as the growing medium. In management, the key is to master humidity and temperature well. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface to maintain relatively high environmental humidity; too dry will cause the leaf tips to wither; in winter the potting soil should not be too damp, but water should still be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently, and at the same time pay attention to cold protection to prevent the leaves from yellowing, shrinking and even falling off. During the vigorous growth period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer 2-3 times a month to keep the leaves green and glossy. It is not strict about light, suitable for growing under bright scattered light, and should avoid direct scorching sun; if exposed to the sun or dried out, the leaf surface will become rough and scorched, lacking luster, reducing ornamental value.Anthurium
Anthurium scientific name: Anthurium andraeanum
Anthurium aliases: flamingo flower, flamingo lily, Anthurium, red flamingo.
Anthurium family and genus: Araceae, Anthurium genus.
Anthurium origin and distribution:
Anthurium is native to the tropical regions of the Americas and likes a warm, humid climate. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, but is not shade-tolerant; it likes sunlight but avoids direct sunlight, is not cold-tolerant, likes fertilizer but avoids saline-alkaline conditions. At present, greenhouses with light, temperature and water regulation systems are used for cut flower cultivation. In frost-free hot regions of Yunnan, simple shade sheds have also been used to cultivate very good cut flowers and potted flowers. With the improvement of economic levels, anthurium, as a high-grade flower, has good application prospects. The flowers of anthurium are unique, the spathe is bright and gorgeous, rich in color and highly varied, and the flowering period is long, flowering continuously through the four seasons; the vase life is very long, water culture can last up to 1 month, and the single flowering period of potted plants can last 4-6 months. The optimum growing temperature is 25-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 15°C. It requires loose, breathable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus with a pH of 5.5-6.5.
Anthurium morphological characteristics:
It is a perennial herb of the Araceae family, plant height 30-70 cm, leaves emerging from the short stem, leathery, long heart-shaped, entire, petioles hard and slender, 30-40 cm long, about 10 cm wide. Flowers terminal, about 50 cm long, spathe heart-shaped, 10-20 cm long, 8-10 cm wide, surface wavy and wrinkled, spathe with bright waxy luster, spadix cylindrical, upright, about 6 cm long, yellow; at first glance it looks like an artificial flower, with a peculiar and beautiful flower posture; the cut flower life is more than 30 days, making it an advanced flower material for flower arrangements. There are many similar varieties, with flower colors including red, peach red, vermilion, white, red with green markings, green, orange, etc.; the flowering period is long, and it can flower throughout the year. Perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous flower. Plant height can reach 1 m, internodes short. Leaves emerging from the rhizome, with long petioles, solitary, oblong-cordate or ovate, deep bright green, glossy. Flower buds emerging from the leaf axils, spathe upright and spreading, leathery, perfectly round-ovate, orange-red or scarlet. Its variant varieties include those with milky white spathes, those inlaid with white-green, multicolored, and those with delicate red edges, extremely varied. Spadix sessile, cylindrical, upright, slightly leaning outward. Flowers bisexual, perianth with four lobes, stamens 4, ovary 2-locular, each locule with 1-2 ovules. Small berries contain 2-4 seeds, pink, densely clustered on the spadix. It is one of the most precious cut flower varieties today; because its flowers are bright and eye-catching, covered with wax, and have a long fresh-keeping period, it has become an important flower arrangement decoration for high-grade occasions.
Anthurium ecological habits:
It likes an environment with high air humidity and unobstructed drainage, and likes shade and warmth. In an environment where the daytime temperature is not higher than 28°C and the nighttime temperature is not lower than 20°C, it can flower and fruit year-round; above 35°C will cause sunscald, below 14°C will affect growth, and a sustained low temperature below 0°C will freeze the plant to death. It requires air humidity of 80%, soil pH of 5.5, and an Ec value of 1.2 is suitable. It requires loose, fertile soil, and soilless culture is best.
Anthurium propagation and cultivation
The optimum growing temperature for anthurium is 20-30°C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, the minimum temperature is 14°C, and below 10°C there is a possibility of cold damage at any time. The optimum relative air humidity is 70%-80%, and it should not be lower than 50%, because maintaining relatively high air humidity in the cultivation environment is the key to successful anthurium cultivation. Therefore, foliar spraying should be done many times throughout the year. Anthurium is not tolerant of strong light, and throughout the year it should be cultivated in an appropriately shaded environment, that is, choose greenhouse cultivation with protective facilities. In spring, summer and autumn, appropriate shading should be provided, especially in summer when 70% shading is needed. Direct sunlight will make the leaf temperature higher than the air temperature; too high a leaf temperature will cause burning, scorched leaves, fading of flower buds and slowed leaf growth, etc.
1. Anthurium propagation: usually by division; at present tissue culture is mostly used for mass propagation, and seed propagation is used in breeding. For division, in spring the tiller buds at the rhizome of the adult mother plant can be separated and planted separately; for tissue culture, young leaves are mostly used as explants, and through callus induction, clustered buds are differentiated, then roots are induced to form seedlings. From inoculation to seedling transplanting takes about 4 months, and after planting it takes 2-3 years to flower.
2. Anthurium cultivation: anthurium is mostly grown in greenhouses for cut flowers, and can also be potted for display. It requires a greenhouse with heating, ventilation and cooling, and shading conditions. Soilless culture is mostly used, and the growing medium is preferably mixed with 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 perlite and 1/3 peat. Usually planting is done from January to May, when the seedlings have grown to 6-7 leaves and are about 30 cm tall; make ridges 30 cm high, plant on the ridges, with a plant-row spacing of 30×40 cm, use drip irrigation, and apply nutrient solution twice a week. During the growth period, pay attention to regulation of temperature, humidity and light. The optimum temperature is 27-28°C; in the high-temperature summer period, spray water and ventilate to cool down, and in winter keep the nighttime temperature at 15°C. Adjust the light to 20000-25000 lux, and shade when it is too strong. Strong light and high temperature in summer easily cause leaf burning. Too much watering or poor drainage easily causes root rot. The suitable time for harvesting cut flowers is when the yellow part of the spadix accounts for 1/4-1/3; cut from the base of the pedicel. Insert into water immediately after harvesting. When transport is needed, fix each stem individually and place them flat in layers in a box. Anthurium lasts long in water; when kept in water, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and cut off 1 cm from the base of the flower stalk to keep the cut fresh and facilitate water uptake. It can be stored for 3-4 weeks at 13°C and still remain fresh; below 7°C cold damage occurs. When potting, the potting soil can be peat or leaf mold plus decomposed horse manure plus an appropriate amount of perlite, or 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 river sand. Pot up at the 5-6 leaf stage; use small pots for small seedlings, and gradually move them into larger pots as they grow, placing more broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate aeration and exhaust. Repot once every 1-2 years; watering is best done by spraying and washing the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. During the growth period, apply dilute alum fertilizer water once a week.
Anthurium pest and disease control
The main pests of anthurium are red spider mites and scale insects; the main diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot, which can be controlled by spraying omethoate and thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution respectively.
Anthurium is much welcomed by people because of its unique flower shape, brilliant flower color, and year-round flowering, and because it can be cultivated both as a cut flower and enjoyed as a potted flower. The spathe of anthurium used as a cut flower is unusually bright red with a waxy shine, and has a long vase life. When potted for display, when it blooms in spring the green leaves set off the bright red spathe, very beautiful; when there are flowers, enjoy the flowers, and when there are no flowers, enjoy the leaves; it is an excellent small indoor potted flower. It is often used for beautifying and arranging family rooms, living rooms and meeting rooms. In the global tropical flower trade, anthurium sales rank second only to orchids. Anthurium is mainly used as a cut flower. In recent years, new multi-flowered varieties have been continuously bred.Emerald philodendron
Emerald philodendron, also called long heart-leaf monstera and emerald, is a perennial evergreen climbing foliage plant of the Araceae family, Philodendron genus.
Emerald philodendron is a climbing species, with a thick stem and aerial roots at the nodes. Leaves long heart-shaped, 25-35 cm long and 12-18 cm wide, with a sudden pointed tip at the end, deeply heart-shaped at the base, green, entire, glossy. Young shoots and leaf sheaths are both green. Excellent related varieties of the same genus include:
Ruby philodendron: also called ruby, with leaves and stems dark red.
Red-petiole philodendron: petioles, leaf undersides and young new growth are often dark red.
Violin-leaf philodendron: also called split-leaf philodendron, leaves violin-shaped, with 5 lobes, the basal lobes wide and ear-shaped, narrow in the middle, tip long elliptical, dark green, glossy.
Heart-leaf philodendron: also called sharp heart climbing philodendron and round-leaf philodendron, stems and leaves green, leaves heart-shaped.
Emerald philodendron and most others are native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, climbing and growing on tree trunks and rocks. They like warm, humid and semi-shaded environments. The optimum growing temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Emerald philodendron is mostly propagated by cuttings, and roots very easily in the high-temperature season. Generally from April to August, cut 3-4 nodes of the stem, remove the lower leaves, and insert the cuttings into a medium of half leaf mold and half river sand, keeping the medium and air moist. After 2-3 weeks they can root and be potted.
For potting emerald philodendron, the medium is preferably loam rich in humus and with good drainage; generally it can be made up of 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat soil and a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer. When planting, a pillar can be placed in the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it to let them climb and grow. It likes a hot, humid environment, and the potting soil must be kept moist, especially in summer when it must not lack water, and water should also be frequently sprayed on the leaf surface; but avoid water accumulating in the potting soil, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Generally water once a day in spring and summer, and once every 3-5 days in autumn; in winter reduce the amount of watering, but the potting soil should not be completely dry. During the growing season, pay attention to topdressing frequently, generally fertilizing 1-2 times a month; in late autumn and winter, when growth is slow or stops, stop fertilizing. It likes bright light and avoids strong sunlight; generally during the growing season 50%-60% shading is needed; but it can also endure a dark indoor environment, though too weak light for a long time easily causes spindly growth, longer internodes, and thin weak growth, which is unfavorable for viewing.
The emerald philodendron has broad, deep green leaves; when grown climbing it can form a green round shape, with a neat and robust plant form, full of tropical style. It is strongly shade-tolerant and very suitable for indoor decorative cultivation. It is often grown in large and medium sizes, placed in halls, meeting rooms, offices and other places, extremely spectacular.Spider plant
The spider plant is a perennial evergreen foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Chlorophytum genus. The spider plant is a perennial herb, with clustered cylindrical fleshy fibrous roots and rhizomes. The greatest characteristic of the spider plant is that mature plants will from time to time grow runners, and at the tips of the runners small plantlets will grow. Flower scapes slender, longer than the leaves, bending and drooping; flowers white, several per cluster, sparsely scattered on the inflorescence axis. The flowering period is between spring and summer, and it can also bloom indoors in winter. At present, besides the pure green-leaved horticultural variety, there are also three kinds: large-leaved spider plant, golden-centered spider plant and golden-edged spider plant. It likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment. It has strong adaptability, and is relatively drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant. It is not choosy about soil, and grows better in loose sandy loam. It is not strict about light; generally it is suitable for growing under medium light conditions, and is also tolerant of weak light. The optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
The spider plant can be propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low and unsuitable for division, it can be done in other seasons. For plants potted for 2-3 years, divide the crowded potted seedlings into two to several clumps when repotting in spring, and pot them separately as new plants. The spider plant can also be propagated using the small plantlets on the runners. During the growing season, cut off the small plantlets on the runners, plant them in growing medium or water, and after the small plantlets grow roots, transplant them into pots.
For potting the spider plant, commonly use equal parts leaf mold or peat soil, garden soil and river sand mixed with a small amount of base fertilizer as the medium. Repot once every 2-3 years, re-preparing the growing medium. Its fleshy roots have well-developed water-storing tissue and relatively strong drought resistance, but during the vigorous growth period from March to September it needs a relatively large amount of water, so it should be watered and sprayed frequently to increase humidity; after autumn gradually reduce the amount of watering to improve the plant's cold resistance. During the vigorous growth period, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month. Fertilizer is mainly nitrogen fertilizer, but golden-centered and golden-edged varieties should not be given excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the linear markings on the leaves will become less obvious. The spider plant likes a semi-shaded environment; if the placement spot has too strong or insufficient light, the leaves easily become pale green or yellow-green, lacking vitality, losing their proper ornamental value, and may even wither and die; if in direct sunlight with dry air, it most easily causes the spider plant to scorch, so it should be placed in a cool, ventilated spot, and attention should be paid to maintaining environmental humidity. The spider plant is not prone to pests and diseases, but if the potting soil is waterlogged and ventilation is poor, besides causing root rot, root rot disease may also occur, and attention should be paid to spraying for control.
The spider plant, with stems and leaves like orchids, evergreen through the four seasons, suspended indoors, can be called an “air flower”. The stolons it sends out from the leaf axils produce many small plantlets with roots, drooping along the pot, very elegant. The spider plant is also called an indoor air “purifier”; it can absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen peroxide, and other volatile gases, purifying the room's air and benefiting human health. However, the spider plant often easily has withered leaf tips, affecting its appearance, so attention must be paid to prevention and control. The method of prevention and control should start from the causes: there are more than 200 kinds of spider plants, commonly including golden-edged, silver-edged spider plant, golden-centered spider plant and entire-edged spider plant, etc. The spider plant is native to South Africa, South America and tropical regions of Asia; it likes warmth, semi-shade and humidity, and is not cold-tolerant. If water is insufficient in summer and autumn, or frost is relatively heavy in winter, the leaf tips often easily wither. Specific prevention and control methods can be taken as follows: (1) Frequently pay attention to watering and spraying to keep the potting soil and surrounding air moist. Because it has many leaves and is suspended in the air, or placed in a ventilated spot on a balcony, it needs a relatively large amount of water. Therefore it is necessary to frequently water and spray the potting soil and leaf surface and around the pot. Generally in summer and autumn, water and spray 1-2 times a day in the morning and evening; in winter and spring, water once every 4-5 days; water less in winter and a little more in spring. Only in this way can the potting soil be kept moist and the air humid; at the same time, the spider plant leaves should also be promptly washed of dust to keep them fresh, to enhance their ornamental quality. (2) Place the flower pot in a semi-shaded spot to prevent strong light exposure. Although the spider plant needs an appropriate amount of light, it avoids direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves easily wither. (3) The spider plant is suitable for a large pot with few plants, and likes sandy loam with good drainage and aeration. For a medium-sized flower pot, generally planting 2-3 plants is suitable. If there are too many plants, the water demand is also greater; if the pot is small and the soil water supply is insufficient, the leaves also easily wither. Attention should also be paid to frequently cutting off withered, dead leaves. It is also possible, together with repotting each spring or autumn, to change the smaller pot for a larger pot, and at the same time remove excess branches and leaves.Golden barrel cactus
The golden barrel cactus, also called yellow-spined golden barrel, is the most charming cactus ball species in the Cactaceae family, Echinocactus genus. In cultivation there are also several main varieties, such as white-spined golden barrel, wild-spined golden barrel, short-spined golden barrel, golden barrel cristata, and golden barrel monstrosa.
Origin and habits: the golden barrel cactus is native to the desert regions of Mexico, and is now introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. The golden barrel cactus likes sufficient sunlight, and mostly likes fertile sandy loam with good water permeability. During the hot high-temperature summer period it should be appropriately shaded to prevent the ball from being burned by strong light.
Morphological characteristics: the golden barrel cactus has a spherical stem; the ball is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the ball is densely covered with golden-yellow wool; flowers yellow, terminal in the wool cluster, of uniform size, very beautiful and spectacular; fruit covered with scales and wool, seeds black and smooth.
Propagation techniques: the golden barrel cactus is propagated by sowing and by grafting young offsets. 1. Sowing method: seeds harvested in the same year have a high germination rate. Sowing is carried out from May to September; after germination, 30-40 days later the seedling ball has reached the size of a grain of rice or a mung bean, and can be transplanted or grafted onto a rootstock to speed up growth. 2. Young offset grafting method: graft seedlings cultivated for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus to speed up growth. When the scion has grown to a certain size or the rootstock can no longer support it, it can be cut off, and after the wound dries, inserted into a pot. In a good environment with fertile soil and air circulation, seedlings that are not grafted also grow quickly. After potting, the seedlings or grafted young offsets should be placed in semi-shade, avoiding direct sunlight; if the ball does not shrink after 7-10 days, it has survived.
Management techniques: the golden barrel cactus likes sandy loam containing lime, and can be mixed with equal parts coarse sand, loam, leaf mold and a small amount of old wall ash. Every year, repot and change the soil once and cut off old roots. In mid-March, take the ball out of the pot, cut off old roots, and do not damage the main root. After cutting, place the ball in a ventilated spot to air-dry for 4-5 days, so the cut dries; for the new growing medium used for repotting, it is suitable to use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, add coal ash, plant ash and a small amount of animal bone meal, etc., and mix evenly; the pot should be disinfected by sunlight exposure, steaming and spraying, to prevent the ball from rotting.
The golden barrel cactus likes sufficient sunlight, but in summer it should be in semi-shade; when the temperature reaches above 35°C, it should be shaded around noon to avoid strong sunlight burning the ball. Before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., it can be placed in the sunlight to promote more flower buds, and can avoid excessive shading causing the ball to elongate and reduce ornamental value. Keep the overwintering temperature at 8-10°C, and keep the potting soil dry. When the temperature is too low, the ball will develop yellow spots. Prevent rain exposure in summer.
Summer is the peak growing season for the golden barrel cactus, and the water requirement increases. If there is drought, water frequently, preferably in the early morning and evening; never water with too-cold water at the hot noon, as it easily causes a “chill” and disease. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, a little spraying to moisten the pot surface is enough; do not spray water on the top of the ball or the grafted part, to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growth period, apply dilute fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other components 1-2 times every half month, used together with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed, and the concentration should be appropriate.
The golden barrel cactus is robust by nature and has strong disease resistance, but in summer, due to factors such as humidity, heat and poor ventilation, it is easily harmed by pests and diseases such as red spider mites, scale insects and whiteflies, and control should be strengthened. For harm by pests and diseases such as red spider mites, scale insects and whiteflies, control should be strengthened. For red spider mites, spray with 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon at 1000-1500 times dilution for control. When scale insects, whiteflies and other pests are found, they can be manually wiped off.
Ornamental value: The golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) has a very long lifespan and is easy to cultivate. A mature large golden barrel cactus produces abundant flowers and a robust, magnificent golden body, giving it high ornamental value. Moreover, it is small in size and takes up little space, making it an ideal ornamental plant for urban household greenery.Peace Tree (Cinnamon)
The Peace Tree is an elegant name for cinnamon-type plants in the genus Cinnamomum of the family Lauraceae. It is an evergreen small tree with green, smooth, hairless young branches. The leaves are opposite or nearly opposite, ovate-oblong, with pointed tips, thick and leathery, about 10 cm to 22 cm long and 5 cm to 8 cm wide. The upper surface is bright green with a metallic sheen, while the underside is grayish-green to yellow-green, with three prominent main veins. It is a relatively popular foliage plant.
It prefers a warm, humid environment with ample sunlight, is relatively shade-tolerant, and favors warm, frost-free, foggy, and highly humid conditions. It is not tolerant of drought, severe cold, or saline-alkaline soil. For cultivation, a loose, fertile, well-draining, organic-rich acidic sandy loam is ideal. Its optimal growth temperature is 22°C to 30°C. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 5°C, so it should be moved indoors before Frost's Descent and taken out after Qingming. As for its light requirements, from mid-May to mid-October, 40% to 50% shading should be provided. Excessive light can easily cause leaf scorching, but it can also grow well if placed in a well-lit indoor spot for extended periods. During the growing season, the potting soil should always be kept moist, and the leaves and surrounding environment should be misted frequently to maintain a relative air humidity of around 80%. In northern regions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder should be added to irrigation water, or a small amount of edible vinegar can be dripped in to increase the water's acidity and meet its need for an acidic soil environment. For potted plants during the growing season, the soil should be loosened once a month to keep the root system in a well-aerated state. After the plant produces new leaves, a dilute cake fertilizer solution can be applied once a month. After autumn begins, 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied 2 consecutive times to increase the plant's cold resistance. When fertilizing, avoid raw, concentrated, or heavy fertilizers, and especially avoid high-concentration chemical fertilizer solutions, as these can easily cause fertilizer burn to the roots, leading to yellowing and scorching of leaves and plant death.
Under indoor conditions with poor ventilation, high temperature and humidity, and insufficient light, the leaves are prone to brown spot disease, but it usually occurs mostly from April to May. The symptoms are as follows: it mostly occurs on new leaves, starting with elliptical yellow-brown spots on the leaf surface, which then gradually expand. Later, numerous small black dots appear within the spots on the upper surface of the leaf, while the underside of the spots turns purple. The entire leaf yellows, wilts, and drops off. Control methods: If a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly remove and burn them. In the early stages of the disease, spray with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. For a small number of spots on household potted plants, applying Dakin's cream can inhibit the spread of the spots.
Yellowing and dropping of leaves may be caused by the following reasons: First, the plant is a newly potted specimen bought from the south, with severely damaged roots, compounded by long-distance transport and cold weather. Second, indoor winter temperatures below 5°C cause chilling injury that leads to yellowing and leaf drop. Third, overwatering causes root rot, resulting in yellowing and leaf drop. Fourth, water that is too alkaline causes slow leaf yellowing. Fifth, improper fertilization, such as applying too much or too concentrated fertilizer, causes the fine nutrient roots to lose water, shrink, and die. For plants with yellowing and dropping leaves, check the root system. If part of the roots have already rotted, cut away the rotted portion and replant with clean, fresh potting soil. Around the cut area near the roots, surround it with a ring of moist fine sand to promote wound healing and the sprouting of new roots. For already withered branches and leaves, cut them all off. After repotting, mist more and water less, keeping the potting soil moist. After mid-April, when outdoor temperatures are no lower than 15°C, the plant can be moved outdoors, and normal fertilization can only resume after new leaves have grown.Zebra Dumb Cane
Zebra Dumb Cane, also called Giant Dumb Cane or Dumb Cane, is a perennial herbaceous plant in the family Araceae. Its stem is cylindrical and fleshy, often bearing white ring marks on the stem, which are the traces left by fallen leaves. The leaves of Zebra Dumb Cane are long-elliptical, with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes scattered on both sides of the green main vein, making it appear particularly elegant and graceful, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name Zebra Dumb Cane.
Zebra Dumb Cane is native to Colombia and prefers a warm, humid climate. Its optimal growth temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and indoor winter temperatures should be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potted plants, the soil mix can be prepared with 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand. Zebra Dumb Cane prefers a semi-shaded environment and avoids direct sunlight, so it can be grown indoors year-round. It is tolerant of waterlogged conditions, so a water tray can be placed under the pot with water in it, allowing water to continuously seep through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot to moisten the soil. In winter, watering should be restrained; the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and drop, but as long as the plant is not damaged by freezing, it can regrow leaves the following spring. If kept indoors for the winter and the growth is weak with a tendency toward leggy growth, it can be placed outdoors in a semi-shaded spot for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors after its vigor recovers. Fertilization can be carried out during the growing season, depending on the plant's condition, once or twice a month, with more decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote lush green leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used excessively.
Its "flower" is the typical spathe and spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or never produces seeds, so it is difficult to propagate from seed. Propagation is basically vegetative, with the main methods being tissue culture and stem cutting. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. Stem cutting involves cutting old stems into 10 to 15 cm segments in spring, inserting them obliquely into sandy soil, keeping them moist, and transplanting them into pots after they take root and grow leaves. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, the stem can be cut into small segments with one or two nodes, about five to six cm long, left to dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then directly planted in pots, kept moist, and they will quickly take root and grow leaves. You can also cut leaf-bearing stem segments and place them in a transparent glass water bottle, fix them with white construction decorative gravel, and in about half a month you can see pure white, jade-like adventitious roots growing, allowing you to enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, care should be taken during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as Zebra Dumb Cane, which also have some ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and sheen, tall stature, and thick stems, making it an ideal indoor ornamental specimen.Maidenhair Fern
Maidenhair Fern: Also known as wire grass or iron-wire grass, it is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant in the family Adiantaceae, genus Adiantum.
Maidenhair Fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern, with a height of 10-40 cm. The rhizome is horizontal, densely covered with brown scales. The leaf stalks are slender but hard, resembling iron wire, hence the name Maidenhair Fern. Its ecological habits are a preference for warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments.
Maidenhair Fern is mainly propagated by division. Division should be done in spring before new buds sprout, in conjunction with repotting. Take the plant out of the pot, remove most of the old potting soil, cut the rhizome, divide into two to several clumps, and pot them separately. In addition, after the spores of Maidenhair Fern mature, they scatter in warm, humid environments and propagate and grow on their own. Once they have grown to a certain size, they can also be potted.
Maidenhair Fern prefers loose, well-draining, fertile calcareous sandy loam. For potting, the soil mix can be made by mixing equal parts of loam, leaf mold, and river sand. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and be careful to keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can be sprinkled on the ground around the plant frequently to increase air humidity. Maidenhair Fern prefers bright, indirect light and avoids direct sunlight. Too much light will cause the leaves to turn yellow and even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant. Its optimal growth temperature is 13-22°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is 5°C.Dragon Tree (Dracaena)
Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) is a species within the genus Dracaena, family Agavaceae, genus Dracaena.
The Dragon Tree was originally a wild plant in the tropical forests of Hainan Island, China. Through artificial domestication and cultivation, it has now become a shade-loving plant suitable for indoor display.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen tree. The plant can reach up to 10 m in height, slightly branched. Leaves are densely clustered on a flat crown, sword-shaped, 45 cm to 60 cm long and 3 cm to 4 cm wide, hard and upright, bright green. The inflorescence is a panicle, with white flowers tinged with green. What is commonly seen in cultivation is the stemless or short-stemmed juvenile foliage plant.
Propagation and cultivation points: Can be propagated by cuttings, layering, or sowing. For cuttings in early spring, use mature thick branches, remove the leaves, cut into 5 cm to 10 cm segments, lay them flat in a heated hotbed, maintain a temperature of 25°C to 30°C and relatively humid air, and they should root in about 1 month. For outdoor cuttings in summer, a shade frame is needed for shading. For sowing, seeds can be collected from larger old plants and sown in spring. The cultivation soil should be a mixed fertile soil made of leaf mold, clay loam, and sand.
Application value: The Dragon Tree is both a foliage plant and a flowering plant. It is suitable as background material for decorating the main podium of large conference venues, appearing extremely magnificent. The leaf bases, stems, and branches can be used to extract traditional Chinese medicine, which has hemostatic effects.Bamboo Palm
[Aliases] Guanyin Bamboo, Palm Bamboo
[Family and Genus] Palmae, Rhapis
[Origin] Southeastern, southern, and southwestern China; Japan
[Growth Habits] Prefers warm, humid, semi-shaded, well-ventilated environments. Drought-tolerant, afraid of intense sunlight. The optimal growth temperature is 25-30°C. The winter nighttime temperature should preferably not be below 5°C, but it can tolerate short-term temperatures around 0°C. It should avoid prolonged cold winds and frost and snow. Generally, potted plants can safely overwinter indoors.
[Soil] Prefers fertile, well-draining sandy loam, and grows well in humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.
[Temperature and Environment] Prefers warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environments. It grows well in semi-shaded conditions. In summer and autumn, avoid direct sunlight; preferably provide about 70% shading. In summer, especially avoid scorching sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and the plant will grow slowly. In winter and spring, more light exposure is preferable.
[Water and Fertilizer] During the peak growth period from May to September, water more frequently to keep the soil moist. It is better to err on the side of wetness than dryness, but do not let water accumulate, as this can easily cause root rot. During high-temperature periods, water should also be sprayed on the leaves and ground frequently to increase air humidity. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce watering. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote deep, verdant leaf color. Stop fertilizing in winter.
[Pest and Disease Control] In a well-ventilated environment, pests and diseases are few. If ventilation is poor, scale insects and aphids may occur. If only a small number appear, promptly remove them manually, pay attention to ventilation, and timely prune dead branches and fallen leaves.
[Economic Value] This species is a traditional excellent foliage plant in China. Its plant form is compact and elegant, its leaf shape is refined, and it has a tropical charm combined with the gracefulness of bamboo. It is suitable for potted cultivation for display and appreciation in home interiors, offices, conference rooms, foyers, and other settings.Lacy Tree Philodendron
English name: Lacy tree philodendron
Family and Genus: Araceae, Philodendron
Scientific name: Philodendron selloum Koch
Lacy Tree Philodendron, originally named Philodendron selloum (split-leaf philodendron), is native to Brazil, Paraguay, and other places. It is a perennial herbaceous plant. The plant can reach 1 meter in height, with a thick, upright stem that can reach 10 cm in diameter. The stem has prominent leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots. The leaves spread out in all directions from the top of the stem, with petioles about 40-50 cm long. The leaf blade is vividly colored and glossy, ovate-cordate in shape, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but potted specimens are generally only about half that size. The entire leaf is deeply pinnatifid, leathery in texture. Seedling leaves are thinner and triangular in shape; as the plant grows, the leaves gradually become larger, with more numerous and deeper pinnate lobes. Lacy Tree Philodendron prefers a hot, humid environment. It is not strict about light requirements, is not cold-tolerant, and tolerates shade. It can be grown in pots anywhere indoors where the light is not too dim. It prefers fertile, loose, well-draining, slightly acidic soil. The winter temperature should not be below 5°C. It is commonly propagated by cuttings. The best time is from May to September. Cut vigorous stem sections with 2-3 nodes and insert them directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keeping them moist. They should root in about 20 days. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist, especially in summer when it must not lack water, and frequently mist the leaves. Fertilize once a month. The plant grows rapidly and needs repotting every spring. In winter, growth slows, so stop fertilizing and reduce watering. Household plants should be renewed every 3-4 years. Common problems include leaf spot disease and scale insect damage. For leaf spot disease, spray with 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution. For scale insects, spray with 50% at 1000 times dilution. Lacy Tree Philodendron has a unique leaf form and is very shade-tolerant, making it suitable for indoor hall display, especially for decorating music tearooms and hotel lounges. Related species in the same genus include Philodendron imbe.Jade Plant, also known as Spear Leaf or Stonecrop Tree, is a plant in the family Crassulaceae, genus Crassula.
Native to South Africa, now cultivated in various places. It is an evergreen small shrub. The stem is cylindrical, grayish-green, and jointed. Leaves are opposite, flat, fleshy, elliptical, with entire margins, slightly pointed tips, and rounded bases that clasp the stem. Flowers are red. It prefers warmth and dryness, and likes ample sunlight and ventilation. It prefers loose sandy potting soil. Avoid overly wet soil. Propagation is mainly by cuttings. Softwood cuttings or leaf cuttings can be used. Before inserting, the cuttings need to be dried in the shade. They can be inserted in spring or autumn into moist yellow sand or perlite.
The cultivation and management of the Jade Plant is simple and undemanding, but to achieve a full, robust plant form and have it covered in flowers as expected, there is indeed some work to be done. First, the Jade Plant grows quickly and needs repotting every spring, adding fertile soil and placing it in a sunny spot for care. Apply a dilute fertilizer solution once every 10 days to half a month, and water once every 2 to 3 days, following the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet. In the heat of midsummer, the Jade Plant enters a semi-dormant state and is vulnerable to leaf scorching from strong light, so shade care should be provided at this time. Stop fertilizing in summer, ensure good ventilation, and prevent leaves from turning yellow and dropping. If there is continuous heavy rain, avoid letting the plant be battered by downpours to prevent water accumulation at the roots causing root rot and death. From August to October, as autumn arrives and temperatures cool, the Jade Plant begins to resume growth. Increase light again, remove shading equipment, and at this point, fertilizing and watering should in principle be the same as in spring. Before Frost's Descent, move it into a greenhouse and place it in a sunny indoor spot. Stop fertilizing and restrict watering to basically once every half month, with the amount being half that of summer. The Jade Plant is not cold-tolerant in winter, and the temperature should be maintained above 7°C. Prune and shape once a year, either when repotting in spring or when moving into the greenhouse in late autumn, to keep the plant form perpetually simple and elegant.
The Jade Plant has few pests and diseases, though it may sometimes be affected by anthracnose and leaf spot disease, which can be controlled by spraying with 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. If indoor ventilation is poor, the stems and leaves are susceptible to scale insect damage. If pests are found, immediately scrub them off manually. In severe cases, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution for control.
In the Jade Plant, the leaves contain euphol. When human skin comes into contact with the sap flowing from the leaves, it can cause skin redness, swelling, and pain. If it splashes into the eyes, it can even cause blindness.
Although the Jade Plant is not particularly striking in appearance, because this succulent plant is robust, drought-tolerant, easy to cultivate, and has full branches and leaves that remain emerald green year-round, combined with the swollen stem nodes that give it the posture of an ancient tree trunk, potted Jade Plants are now relatively common on the balconies of urban and rural residences in the Jiangnan region.
Although the Jade Plant is easy to propagate, easy to grow, and easy to manage, it is still common to see Jade Plants on some residents' balconies looking elegant through spring, summer, and autumn, only to become wilted and discolored once winter passes, sometimes even reduced to a "plucked chicken." This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-cultivate side of the Jade Plant and overlook its fragile side. After entering severe cold, they still leave it on an open balcony, exposing it to cold winds and freezing, causing the Jade Plant to suffer cold damage. After cold damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the Jade Plant begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally drop off. In severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.
Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering potted Jade Plants on balconies is very important. The following key steps should be taken:
1. Move pots indoors in a timely manner. After winter begins, move the Jade Plant to an indoor location where 7°C to 10°C can be maintained. On warmer days, the Jade Plant can be moved to the balcony at noon to bask in the sun, and moved back indoors at night.
2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should be kept on the drier side, and fine mist should be sprayed on the leaves at appropriate times to supplement moisture. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.
3. Move into a warm shelter for insulation. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shelter; if not, a plastic film cover can be used. However, pay attention to the humidity inside the cover. If excessive moisture is found, remove the cover promptly for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.
4. If, due to earlier mistakes in cold protection measures, the Jade Plant has already suffered cold damage, do not easily discard the plant. Simply remove the frost-killed leaves and tender branches, keep the plump main stem, and apply fertilizer appropriately the following spring. The main stem can still sprout new branches and leaves. Generally, after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect Jade Plant again.Yemen Iron
Latin name: Dracaena
Yemen Iron has broad strap-shaped leaves, dark green, sessile, with slightly wavy leaf margins. The leaves can reach up to 80 cm in length. It is suitable for high-temperature, high-humidity environments. It does well in both ample light and shade. A dormancy temperature of 13°C is suitable, and the minimum should not be below 5°C. It is evergreen year-round, highly adaptable, easy to manage, slow-growing, and long-lived. It is an excellent foliage plant for both indoor and outdoor settings, especially indoors.
The care methods for Yemen Iron are the same as for the Dragon Tree (Dracaena).Zamioculcas
A foliage plant in the family Araceae, genus Zamioculcas, native to tropical Africa. It is an evergreen perennial with underground tubers. There is no main stem above ground; adventitious buds sprout from the tubers to form large compound leaves. The leaflets are fleshy with short petiolules, firm and deep green, with a bright sheen, offering high ornamental value. It is suitable for growing under different light intensities and has strong shade tolerance, earning it the title of "King of Shade Tolerance." It is a newly introduced upscale indoor ornamental plant. Zamioculcas has large tubers that sprout numerous buds and form many small tubers. The compound leaves have a lifespan of 2-3 years or more and are continuously renewed by new leaves. Zamioculcas seedlings do not grow quickly and can be grown in small or medium pots for ornamental display, or used in large combined plantings.
Ecological Habits
Zamioculcas is native to the tropical (savanna) climate zone of eastern Africa with relatively low rainfall. It prefers warm, slightly dry, semi-shaded environments with small annual temperature fluctuations. It is relatively drought-tolerant but afraid of cold, avoids intense direct sunlight, and dislikes heavy, sticky soil and water accumulation in the pot. If the potting soil has poor drainage and aeration, it can easily lead to tuber rot. It requires loose, fertile, well-draining, organic-rich soil that is acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong sprouting ability; after cutting off the thick compound leaves, new leaves will quickly emerge from the top of the tuber.
Propagation Techniques
Division: In April, when outdoor temperatures reach above 18°C, remove the large Zamioculcas plant from its pot, shake off most of the old soil, separate it at the weak points where the tubers join, apply sulfur powder or plant ash to the wounds, and pot them separately. Note: do not bury them too deep when planting; burying the top of the tuber 1.5-2 cm below the soil surface is sufficient. Additionally, based on the characteristic that Zamioculcas tubers have latent buds, a large single tuber can be cut into small pieces each with 2-3 latent buds. After the wounds have dried and healed, first plant them in slightly moist fine sand, and after the cut small tubers grow into independent plants, pot them.
Cuttings: Cuttings can be a single small leaflet, a section of leaf rachis with 2 leaflets attached, or a single section of leaf rachis alone. In terms of rooting results, cuttings with leaf rachis and leaflets root faster, have higher sprouting rates, and more easily form larger tubers. Insert a single leaflet into a mixed substrate of river sand and vermiculite. After 10-14 days, a small rooted bulbous stem will form at the leaf base. After 2-3 months of cultivation, it can grow into a small plant, but under normal circumstances, the success rate is not high. If using leaf rachis or leaf rachis with leaflets as cuttings, the substrate can be ordinary fine sand, or a mix of peat moss, perlite, and river sand in a 3:1:1 ratio. Insert the cutting to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of its length, leaving only the leaves above the substrate. After spraying thoroughly with water, place in a shaded area, maintain an ambient temperature of 25°C-27°C, and mist the leaves 1-2 times daily depending on the substrate's moisture level, keeping the substrate slightly moist. Never let it become overly wet, as this will cause the cutting to rot and lead to failure. When the cutting has formed a certain root system, the middle of the root gradually swells to form a small spherical tuber. The tuber gradually enlarges. Some of the more tender cutting leaves may turn yellow and die after potting due to high temperatures or poor water management, but the tuber can survive. Mature leaves and cuttings with the entire leaf stalk can also remain green and vigorous. A small number of tubers can sprout and grow new leaves in the same year, but with weak growth vigor and slow growth. The following year, the tuber will produce robust new shoots and grow normally.
Cultivation and Management
Temperature: The optimal growth temperature is 20-32°C. Whether potted or field-grown, small annual temperature fluctuations are required. For commercial cultivation, it is best to grow in a temperature-controlled greenhouse. Every summer, when temperatures reach above 35°C, plant growth declines. Measures such as adding black shade netting and spraying water on the surrounding environment should be taken to cool down, creating a suitable environment with appropriate spatial temperature and relatively dry conditions. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10°C. If the room temperature drops below 5°C, the plant is prone to cold damage, which can seriously threaten its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when temperatures drop below 8°C, promptly move it to a well-lit indoor location. Throughout the overwintering period, the temperature should be maintained between 8°C and 10°C, which is relatively safe and reliable.
Light: Zamioculcas likes light and also has strong shade tolerance. A bright environment with some degree of shade should be created for it. It avoids intense direct sunlight, and especially should be protected from the scorching sun after prolonged rain in late spring and early summer, and from 5-6 hours of unobstructed intense light around midday in summer, which can easily scorch newly emerged tender leaves. For commercial cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade structure with 50-70% shading, but not in excessive darkness, as this will cause new tender leaves to become elongated, yellow, and listless, with sparse spacing between leaflets, affecting the plant's compact and beautiful appearance. For potted plants moved indoors for winter, supplemental lighting should be provided. Keeping the potting soil on the drier side allows the plant to remain disease-free year-round. Additionally, newly emerged pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant form remains well-shaped.
Water: To properly care for potted Zamioculcas, efforts should be made to create an environment that is both moist and on the drier side. For commercial cultivation, for plants kept in a greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, the plant should be misted once daily. Because this plant has strong drought tolerance, it is best to keep the potting soil slightly moist and on the drier side, but occasionally overwatering or over-fertilizing will not cause root rot. In winter, attention should be paid to misting the leaves and surrounding environment to maintain relative air humidity above 50%. After mid-autumn, reduce watering, or replace watering with misting, to help newly emerged tender leaves safely pass the winter. Additionally, in winter, special attention should be paid to keeping the potting soil from becoming too moist; it is better to keep it on the drier side, otherwise under low-temperature conditions, overly wet potting soil is more likely to cause root rot and even the death of the entire plant.
Soil: Due to the special climatic conditions of its place of origin, Zamioculcas has developed strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the growing substrate is good drainage and aeration. The basic requirement for the growing substrate is good drainage and aeration. The growing substrate is usually a mix of peat, coarse sand or washed coal cinders, and a small amount of garden soil, with the pH adjusted to between 6 and 6.5, in a slightly acidic state. Because of its large tubers, well-developed root system, and relatively long pinnate compound leaves, during the growing season, the plant's growth should be observed promptly to decide whether to repot and change the soil. Always keep the growing substrate well-aerated to help create a root environment with good air permeability and drainage. During the plum rain season, check frequently; if water accumulation is found in the pot, promptly repot and change the soil.
Fertilizer: Zamioculcas is relatively fond of fertilizer. In addition to adding an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer to the growing substrate, during the growing season, a mixed solution of 0.2% urea plus 0.1% monopotassium phosphate can be applied 2-3 times a month, or a balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) at a concentration of 200-250 ppm combined with calcium nitrate can be applied. After mid-autumn, to help it safely pass the winter, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and apply 0.3% monopotassium phosphate solution 2-3 consecutive times to promote the hardening and filling of young leaf rachises and newly emerged leaves. When temperatures drop below 15°C, stop all forms of topdressing to avoid fertilizer damage to roots under low-temperature conditions.
Pest and Disease Control
Cold Damage: When winter temperatures drop below 5°C, combined with moist potting soil, the plant's tender leaves are prone to collapsing from cold damage. In severe cases, it can cause tuber rot, and it is very difficult to restore vitality.
Control methods: For commercial cultivation, during the overwintering period, the greenhouse temperature should be maintained no lower than 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept in a slightly dry state.
Sunscald: In hot summers, or on clear days after prolonged rain, or for potted plants that have been kept indoors for a long time and just moved outdoors for restorative care, direct exposure to sunlight can easily cause the tender leaves to be scorched, resulting in partial loss of green color and whitening of the leaves, or the entire leaf being scorched, with the necrotic parts later turning brown and black.
Brown Spot Disease: This disease mostly occurs on leaves. The spots are nearly circular, grayish-brown to yellow-brown, with slightly darker edges. This disease is prone to occur under conditions of high temperature, high humidity, and poor ventilation. Control methods: When a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly remove and destroy them. In the early stages of the disease, spray the leaves with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 600 times dilution or 40% chlorothalonil suspension at 500 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 3-4 consecutive times, for good control results.
Control methods: After summer begins, promptly move the plant to a semi-shaded environment. In late spring and early summer after prolonged rain, provide shade for potted plants as soon as possible.
Scale Insects: In poorly ventilated and poorly lit environments, the leaves of Zamioculcas are susceptible to damage from scale insect feeding.
Control methods: For commercial cultivation, during the peak hatching period of nymphs, spray with 20% buprofezin wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for good insecticidal effect.
Happiness Tree
Generally refers to the "Radermachera" in the family Bignoniaceae, genus Radermachera.
Radermachera sinica, also known as Pepper Tree or Bone-Setting Umbrella, is a deciduous tree native to southern China, in the family Bignoniaceae, genus Radermachera. Based on collected images, the "Happiness Tree" mainly refers to Radermachera sinica, whose scientific name is Radermachera sinica. Young branches have sticky sap. The leaves are 1- to 3-pinnately compound, with entire, stalked leaflets. The bark is light gray with deep longitudinal fissures. The capsule is elongated, leathery, 85 cm long and about 1 cm in diameter. It is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan, and other places, and is also found in Bhutan. Because its leaves are verdant and glossy with a metallic sheen, and it both likes light and is extremely shade-tolerant, young potted trees are a premium foliage plant.
Radermachera sinica prefers a hot, humid environment and can be propagated by cuttings, sowing, layering, and other methods. Sandy loam is best for cultivation. It can be grown in full sun or semi-shade. The optimal growth temperature is 18°C to 28°C. A pruning and shaping should be done in spring before budding. During indoor display, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, the leaves should also be misted frequently, and the plant should be placed in a well-lit location.
It should be particularly noted that in winter, the greenhouse temperature should be kept no lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage may occur, and even the entire plant may die. Control watering, and do not water until the surface soil is dry. If the indoor air is too dry, water can be misted on the plant and surrounding environment. Do not apply fertilizer.False Aralia
False Aralia is an evergreen small tree or shrub in the family Araliaceae, genus Plerandra. It can reach up to 3 m in height. Leaves are alternate; the palmately compound leaves have 7-11 leaflets, resembling slender fingers, with coarsely serrated margins, arranged in a radial pattern and alternately. The leaf surface is leathery, dark green, with a coppery metallic sheen. When it grows above 2 m, the fine leaflets will become broad leaves, which is its special characteristic. It is suitable for placement in relatively spacious conference halls, dining rooms, and other well-lit areas, and can also be used as a foyer decoration for hotels and office buildings, full of southern charm. Specific measures for cultivation and management are as follows:
1. Prefers humus-rich loam. A potting soil made of a mix of leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand is best. From April to August, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month.
2. Likes bright conditions, avoids scorching sun. The optimal growth temperature is about 20-28°C. When air humidity is high, growth is more robust. In summer, if outdoors, 50% shading is required. Indoor temperatures should generally be maintained at 20°C to 30°C. The overwintering temperature should not be below 15°C; if below 8°C, it is prone to cold damage.
3. Requires moist potting soil; avoids dryness and also waterlogging. If too dry, leaf tips tend to dry out. Frequently mist the leaves and surrounding area to maintain air humidity. In winter, minimize watering; cold and wet conditions easily cause leaf drop.
4. For plants that grow too weakly and spindly, heavy pruning can be done when new leaves are sprouting, leaving about 10 cm at the base. If the upper branches dry out, heavy pruning is also advisable to promote new branches and leaves.
5. Mostly propagated by cuttings. From May to June each year, cut one-year-old lignified branches and insert them in a 20°C environment. They should take root and survive in about 30 days. Seed propagation can also be used, but seeds are not easy to obtain and must be kept fresh.
6. For potted plants, repot and change the soil once every 2-3 years. After changing the soil, the branches should be pruned. After many years of cultivation, if the plant ages and its vigor declines, heavy pruning should be carried out in spring, followed by ample fertilizer, to promote the growth of new branches and leaves for a more beautiful tree shape.Monstera
Monstera, also known as Ceriman or Mexican Breadfruit, is an evergreen large climbing vine in the family Araceae, genus Monstera.
Origin and habits: Native to Mexico and Central America. It prefers warm, shaded, and humid conditions, avoids direct sunlight, and requires fertile, well-draining soil.
Morphological characteristics: Monstera vines can reach over 10 meters in length. The stem is thick, and aerial roots can reach 1-2 meters, growing horizontally, slender and columnar, brown. Leaves are heart-shaped when young, without holes; when mature, they become deeply pinnatifid, with perforations between the veins, leathery, and drooping.
Propagation techniques: Monstera is propagated by layering and cuttings. Layering is done from May to August, and after about 3 months, it can be separated from the mother plant. Cuttings are done from April to May. Cut cuttings from the tip of the stem node, each with 2-3 nodes, remove the aerial roots, and insert them with or without leaves into a sand bed. Maintain a certain temperature and humidity. After rooting, transplant into pots.
Management techniques: For potted Monstera, leaf mold is best. During the growing period, water should be ample. When potting and repotting, leave a 5-6 cm rim to facilitate watering. The potting soil should always be kept moist, watering once every 2-3 days. In dry weather, mist the leaves to keep the air humid. Follow the principle of keeping it wet rather than dry to promote branch and leaf growth and vivid foliage. In autumn and winter, gradually reduce watering. Overwatering causes root rot, but still maintain relatively humid air, misting the leaves every 7-10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera is relatively fond of fertilizer. To promote vigorous growth, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading; semi-shade is best. Avoid direct strong sunlight, especially in midsummer when it must not be placed in direct sun, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched and burned, affecting ornamental value.
For large potted plants, insert a 1.3-1.5 meter wooden stake into the pot and plant the Monstera alongside it. This prevents lodging and allows the plant to grow luxuriantly by attaching to the stake. Alternatively, cut overly tall stems for propagation, allowing the mother plant to regrow new stems and leaves. In winter, it should be placed indoors above 10°C, but at least maintain a temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will freeze and scorch. At the same time, the potting soil should be kept on the drier side. During the growing period, Monstera often suffers from brown spot disease and anthracnose, which can be controlled by promptly spraying 50% thiophanate-methyl and 75% chlorothalonil at 1000 times dilution, or 50% carbendazim at 800-1000 times dilution. In summer and winter, when ventilation is poor, scale insects and noctuid larvae often appear on the back of stems, sucking sap and eating tender leaves. Insects can be caught manually or brushed off. The best control is spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution, or 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution, or 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
Monstera is a shade-tolerant foliage plant. Generally speaking, it can be kept indoors for long-term care, but during the growing season, it is best placed in a ventilated spot near an indoor window to receive outdoor air and light. In the peak growing seasons of summer and autumn, if ventilation is poor, its growth will be affected; newly grown leaves will be thinner, paler, and lusterless, reducing its ornamental value.
Keeping Monstera at home has a certain air-purifying effect. It is commonly grown in small to medium pots and placed in indoor living rooms, bedrooms, and studies. It can also be grown in large pots and placed in hotels, restaurants, lobbies, and indoor spaces, or beside garden ponds and under large trees, giving a strong tropical atmosphere. The leaves can also be used as cut flower foliage material. Monstera has been relatively widely introduced and cultivated in China. The beautiful, unique, and versatile Monstera is a famous indoor potted foliage plant that people love. Monstera is renowned for its shade tolerance and is suitable for display and embellishment in indoor living rooms and corridors. In the south, it is often planted in courtyards and scattered in parks beside ponds, streams, rocks, and in stone crevices. The holes and notches on Monstera leaves, with their interplay of solid and void, are novel and interesting, and the aerial roots hanging from the pot rim are simple and elegant.Guzmania
Also known as Star Bromeliad. It is a perennial epiphytic herbaceous plant. Potted plants are about 30 cm tall, with a crown spread of up to 80 cm. The leaves are arranged in a slightly loose rosette. The flower scape usually rises more than 20 cm above the leaf cluster. The flower scape, bracts, and several leaves at the base of the flower scape are all red, very brilliant. Between the bracts are small yellow flowers. The flowering period is in spring. Although the actual flowers bloom for a relatively short time, the colorful flower scape and bracts remain for a very long time, with an ornamental period of about 2 months. It is suitable for cultivation under bright, indirect light indoors and can be enjoyed by a bright window year-round. If the light is too dim, it is difficult to flower. There are "Red Star" Guzmania, "Torch" Guzmania, and "Dennis" Guzmania.
Temperature: Normal growth temperature is above 20°C during the day and above 15°C at night. When forcing flowers, the temperature is 25-30°C. The minimum overwintering temperature is above 10°C.
Light: Prefers bright light. Avoid direct sunlight in summer; provide about 50% shading. No shading in winter.
Water: Always keep water in the leaf cup, changing it once every 2 weeks. Water when the top 1 cm of potting soil becomes dry. Irrigate with soft water or rainwater.
Air humidity: Frequently mist the leaves and surrounding area. Foliar feeding can also be done by spraying.
Repotting: After flowering, if division propagation is not carried out, repot when the clump becomes very dense.
Propagation: When the offshoots at the base grow to about 10 cm or more in height, cut them from the base, let the wounds dry slightly, and pot them in fertilizer-free peat soil. Keep slightly moist, and they should root in about one month.Green Stem Chamaedorea
[Aliases] Hawaiian Palm, Chamaedorea seifrizii, Bamboo Palm
[Family and Genus] Arecoideae, Chamaedorea
[Origin] Mexico and Guatemala and other tropical regions
[Growth Habits] Prefers high temperature and high humidity, shade-tolerant, afraid of direct sunlight, can tolerate short periods of 1-2°C low temperatures.
[Soil] For potting, use loose, well-aerated, well-draining, humus-rich sandy loam.
[Temperature and Environment] This species prefers high-temperature, high-humidity environments. The optimal growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter, maintaining temperatures above 10°C allows normal growth. It can also tolerate short periods of 0°C low temperatures. It has strong shade tolerance and can grow for extended periods in indoor environments with relatively dim light. However, bright, indirect light is beneficial for growth. Avoid strong direct sunlight, otherwise the leaf color will fade or turn yellow.
[Watering and Fertilizing] During the growing season, the potting soil should always be kept moist. In dry air, mist the leaves frequently to increase the ambient air humidity, which benefits plant growth and keeps the leaves deep green and glossy. In late autumn and winter, appropriately reduce watering and keep the potting soil moist to enhance the plant's cold resistance and overwintering ability. During the growing season from March to October, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks to promote leaf growth and deep green leaf color.
[Pest and Disease Control] Under high-temperature, high-humidity conditions, this species may develop brown spot disease and downy mildew, which can be controlled by spraying carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution.
[Economic Value] This species has stems like emerald bamboo, dense branches and leaves, deep green glossy foliage, and elegant pinnate fronds, giving a sense of uprightness, elegance, lightness, and refined beauty. Because of its extremely strong shade tolerance, it is very suitable for courtyard landscaping and indoor potted ornamental display.Green Yuanbao
Original name: Castanospermum australe
Other names: Australian Chestnut, Green Yuanbao, Happy Nut
Scientific name: Castanospermum australe
Name origin: It is called Green Yuanbao because its seeds resemble the shape of a yuanbao (traditional Chinese gold ingot), so this name was chosen for good luck.
Distribution: Native to Australia
Family and Genus: One source says: Fabaceae (Papilionoideae); another says: Fabaceae, genus Castanospermum
Form: It is a medium-sized tree with odd-pinnate compound leaves and alternate leaflets; the leaves are lanceolate to oblong, about 8-12 cm long, entire and leathery. The pods reach up to 20 cm long, and the seeds (the "green ingots") are oval, as large as a chicken egg, and can be roasted and eaten.
Uses: Young castanospermum plants can be grown as small potted plants for indoor use; mature plants can reach over 12 m tall and are suitable as ornamental garden plants or street trees.
Light: Young plants are shade-tolerant, needing about 50-70% sunlight; mature plants need full sunlight.
Care: It likes high temperatures, and the most suitable growing temperature is 22-30°C.
The ornamental appeal of castanospermum seedlings lies in the swollen basal seed ball and the sprouts that grow from it, so it must be kept clean and glossy; when watering daily, be careful not to splash muddy water, and keep the surface in the pot level.
Water: It is suitable for loose, fertile loam or sandy loam, and drainage must be good. In winter, avoid prolonged wetness.
Fertilizing: Fertilize once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Propagation: Propagate by sowing seeds; spring and autumn are the most suitable seasons.Cyclamen
Cyclamen: Also known as rabbit-ear flower, radish begonia, etc., scientific name Cyclamen persicum, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Cyclamen in the family Primulaceae, with unusual flower shapes. The leaves emerge from the top of the tuber and are heart-shaped, ovate or kidney-shaped, with fine serrations along the margins; the leaf surface is green with white or gray mottling, the leaf underside is green or purple, and the petioles are relatively long, reddish brown and fleshy. The flowers are solitary at the top of the flower stalks and nodding, with the petals reflexed upward, just like rabbit ears; the flowers come in white, pink, rose red, bright red, purple red, snow blue and other colors, often with dark red markings at the base; the petal margins vary and may be entire, notched, wrinkled or wavy.
Cyclamen is native to southern Europe, the Mediterranean coast and other places. It likes a warm, humid, cool environment with soft light. The optimum growing temperature is 15°C-20°C; it is not cold-tolerant and fears high temperatures and strong sun. It prefers well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.
Cyclamen is a light-loving flower, and winter and spring are also its vigorous flowering period. To make the flower buds flourish, give plenty of sunlight at the bud stage, place it in a sunny spot indoors, and apply phosphate fertilizer once every week, preferably by watering with a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate compound fertilizer solution (containing zinc, boron, molybdenum, manganese, magnesium, copper, iron, sulfur and other secondary and trace elements), using about 150 ml per pot. At ordinary times, water once every one or two days to keep the potting soil moist; never give a heavy watering, and water only when the potting soil has dried. But be sure not to let the potting soil become too dry, as excessive dryness will injure the root hairs and cause the upper part of the plant to wilt, and even a heavy watering afterward will be hard to remedy. When watering, the water temperature should be close to room temperature.
Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer during the flowering period, otherwise it will cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and shorten the life of the flowers. If the leaves are too dense, thin them appropriately so that nutrients are concentrated and flowering is abundant. When removing leaves or spent flowers, to prevent infection by soft rot, immediately spray once with a 1000-fold “carbendazim” solution.
When cyclamen begins to bloom and continues to form buds, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C to 18°C, and must not fall below 10°C; if the temperature is too high, the flowering period shortens, and above 28°C the leaves turn yellow. Never place the flowerpot on a radiator.Umbrella tree
The umbrella tree is also called Queensland umbrella tree, Queensland shade tree, Australian schefflera, commonly known as money tree, and is a woody foliage plant of the genus Schefflera in the family Araliaceae.
The umbrella tree is a shrub with upright stems and few branches; young stems are green and gradually become woody; the bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are palmately compound, and the number of leaflets varies greatly with growth: 3-5 when young, 9-12 when grown, and up to 16. The leaflets are oblong-elliptic, with obtuse tips and short abrupt points, and obtuse bases; the margins are wavy and leathery; when young they are densely covered with stellate short hairs, and when slightly larger they are clean and hairless; the leaves are 15-25 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, the upper surface is deep and glossy, the underside is pale green, and the petioles are reddish brown. The inflorescence is umbellate, with small white flowers borne terminally, flowering in spring, but potted plants rarely bloom.
The umbrella tree is native to Australia and some small islands in the Pacific, and is also distributed in tropical areas of southern China. It is suitable for warm, humid and well-ventilated environments; it likes sun and is also shade-tolerant, and grows well in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
The umbrella tree can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. When sowing, it is best to sow the seeds immediately after collection, as this gives a high germination rate. Cuttings can be taken in spring, summer and autumn, and generally cutting is combined with shaping: cut the branches of an irregularly shaped plant 10-15 cm above the potting soil surface, let the mother stem sprout several branches, and train a good tree shape. Cut the removed semi-lignified branches into stem segments 8-10 cm long with 2-3 nodes, insert them into a cutting bed of river sand or perlite, maintain a certain substrate humidity and air humidity, and pay attention to shading. Generally, roots can form in about one month. For thick, large branches with a high degree of lignification, air layering can also be used.
For potted umbrella trees, a mixture of garden soil and leaf mold can be used as the substrate. March to October is its vigorous growing period, with a relatively large amount of growth; generally fertilize once a month, keep the soil moist, ensure sufficient water, and frequently spray the leaves to prevent the air from drying out and the leaves from fading and yellowing. In summer, avoid direct sunlight and pay attention to proper shading, generally 30-40% shade, so that the leaves do not lose their gloss or become scorched and yellow from strong sun. Indoor display should be placed in a spot with some diffused light, and attention should be paid to ventilation. In late autumn and winter, reduce watering and control fertilizing; in late autumn, foliar feeding can be done by spraying 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and other phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to promote the aging of branches and leaves and improve cold resistance in winter. Under conditions of high temperature and humidity and poor ventilation in greenhouses and indoors, anthracnose, scale insects or red spider mites may occur, so observe carefully and control them promptly.
The umbrella tree has broad, soft, drooping leaves shaped like an umbrella; the branches and leaves layer upon layer, the plant shape is elegant, and the posture is light yet not thin, with a strong sense of layering, so in recent years it has been widely cultivated in all provinces and regions of China. The umbrella tree is shade-tolerant and easy to manage and maintain, and can be placed indoors continuously for a long time. It is an excellent medium-to-large foliage plant suitable for decoration in hotels, meeting rooms, living rooms, corridors and passageways, and is also a quite ideal accent plant for corners of family living rooms, studies and bedrooms.Greater periwinkle
Scientific name: Vinca major
Aliases: twining periwinkle, periwinkle
Family and genus: Apocynaceae, genus Vinca
Native to the Mediterranean coast, India and tropical America. It is cultivated in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Taiwan, China. It is an evergreen trailing subshrub, clump-forming. Vegetative stems lie prostrate or flat on the ground. Flowering branches are upright, 30-40 cm tall. Leaves are opposite, elliptical, with acute tips, green and glossy; the petioles on flowering branches are short. The whole plant is hairless except for hairs on the leaf margins, petioles, calyx and throat of the corolla. Flowers are solitary in the leaf axils of flowering branches; the corolla is salverform, blue, and 5-lobed. The fruits are paired and upright. The flowering period is April-May. The cultivated variety variegated greater periwinkle, Variegata, has slightly smaller leaves with yellow markings.
Greater periwinkle likes warm, humid, semi-shaded and well-ventilated environments. It is highly adaptable and grows quickly, with growth peaks in June-August and October each year. It is not strict about light, and grows best especially in semi-shaded environments.
Greater periwinkle is commonly propagated by cuttings and division. Propagation can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, and it roots easily. When taking cuttings, cut 3-4 nodes of semi-lignified stems as cuttings. Since root buds grow from the nodes, 1-2 nodes must be buried in river sand during cutting, pressed firm, and watered promptly to retain moisture. Generally, roots and buds form in 1-2 weeks. When the plant grows to 20-30 cm, it can be transplanted. Transplanting can be done throughout the year except in severe winter. In addition, during the growing season, dense clumping plants can be divided along the rhizomes for propagation by division.
Greater periwinkle cultivation requires loose, humus-rich sandy loam; for potting, a mixture of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand can be used as the substrate. Several plants can be planted in each pot at the same time, and pinching can be done in good time so that it quickly takes shape. To promote more branching, pinch several times during the growing season; mounding soil at the nodes can produce more adventitious roots and promote vine growth. Because it grows quickly, it needs sufficient watering during the growing period, and liquid fertilizer should be applied 1-3 times a month to ensure rapid growth of the vines and dark green, glossy leaves. It is suitable for a bright environment. But in midsummer, avoid direct strong light so as not to scorch the leaves; proper shading is necessary, and a semi-shaded environment is best. Although greater periwinkle prefers warmth as it grows, it is also cold-tolerant, and in winter it can withstand low temperatures of around 0°C.
Greater periwinkle is an excellent groundcover material and can be planted in large patches at forest edges or under forests. It is especially suitable for planting at building foundations and on slopes, helping to conserve soil and water.