How to save a money tree with root rot? Cut away the rotten roots and replant; overwatering is the main cause

The money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), with its bright green, attractive leaves and auspicious symbolism, is welcomed and loved by a wide range of people and is kept in many homes. However, quite a few gardening enthusiasts report that their money trees often develop root rot. Why is that? How do you save a money tree with root rot? On this subject, the editor has summarized several causes of money tree root rot. Read on to find out!

1. Causes of money tree root rot: waterlogged soil / pests and diseases

Before answering how to save a money tree with root rot, we need to know how the money tree develops root rot in the first place. On this subject, according to the editor's research, there are four main causes of money tree root rot: overwatering, improper fertilizing, temperatures that are too low, and pathogen invasion.

2. Causes of money tree root rot

1. Overwatering

The money tree is highly drought-tolerant and has low water requirements. Once we water it too much, it will develop root rot, which also causes its leaves to turn yellow. Cause of root rot: when overwatered, the potting soil becomes waterlogged, the money tree's roots struggle to breathe, and large amounts of pathogens breed, resulting in root rot.

2. Too much or too concentrated fertilizer

In our guide to growing money trees, we mentioned that the money tree likes fertilizer and that proper feeding makes it grow more beautifully. However, once fertilizer is applied too much or too concentrated, the money tree's root system, before it has developed well, is prone to root rot.

3. Temperature too low

Besides watering and fertilizing, temperature is also one of the causes of money tree root rot. The money tree likes a warm environment. Once the temperature is too low, especially when winter temperatures are very low, cold damage occurs, chilling the plant and leading to root rot.

4. Pathogen invasion

In addition, pathogen invasion can also cause money tree root rot, and this situation arises easily. If pathogens accidentally get into the water during rain or watering, the plant becomes infected by the pathogens, which may lead to root rot.

3. How to save a money tree with root rot

After discovering root rot in the money tree, cut off the rotten roots, then soak them in a carbendazim solution or dust them with some charcoal to disinfect. After that, place the plant in a cool, shaded spot to dry, and finally repot it. In addition, you can also prune away some branches and leaves to help it survive better.

How to save a money tree with root rot: simply put, cut away the rotten roots and replant. But this is too much trouble, so everyone should focus on prevention. In daily care, do not water too much, and avoid waterlogged conditions; when fertilizing, remember not to use too concentrated or too frequent applications - light, frequent feeding is best. This way you can avoid root rot.

Overall, money trees easily develop root rot because of watering and fertilizing, and this is a situation many gardening enthusiasts encounter. So everyone must be careful when watering and fertilizing, and follow the requirements in our guide on how to water and fertilize a money tree - only then will your money tree grow beautifully. That is all the editor has to share about money tree root rot, and I hope it helps everyone.

Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Volume)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do a good job of preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: Calendula officinalis, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, gaillardia, strawflower, salvia, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, schizanthus, snapdragon, trollius, pansy, etc. At the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have been stratified in sand and have cracked and shown white; also camphor tree, tulip tree, privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summersweet, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lue), heavenly bamboo, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne odora (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, serissa, hibiscus, Hypericum (plum), spiraea, Mahonia, boxwood, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and Chinese trumpet creeper can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela coraeensis, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cutting at the end of March.

    In February, ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors include: hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, salvia, geranium, jasmine, Chloranthus, bergamot, jade plant, jade leaf, stone lotus, gem flower, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Pilea, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Japanese white pine 'Zuisho', lacebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film to keep warm and moist. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate excellent cultivars of wintersweet such as "Suxin", "Xinkou" and "Huti"; by adopting bagging and inflating measures to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar "Elizabeth" as rootstock-scion, and use cleft grafting or split grafting for scions of excellent rose cultivars; by adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, the grafting survival rate can be greatly improved.

    4. Layering. In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, gardenia, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. In February, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: iris, blackberry lily, zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, variegated lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tulip, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant, kalanchoe, canna, arrowroot, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, aloe, etc. In February, woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, cotton rose, Hypericum, Mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Osmanthus fragrans, bamboo, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as heavenly bamboo, holly, Ardisia crenata and winter cherry can be collected, treated and then stratified in sand to promote germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in greenhouses, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among the deciduous types are hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus, ginkgo, sweetgum, Acer, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (carried out before budding and leafing), Magnolia, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, spiraea, three-pronged creeper, deutzia, Sophora japonica, dragon-claw locust, Prunus japonica, flowering almond, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, purple nanmu, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc. should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or in-tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively large amounts of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased, so careful work on moisture retention and cold protection should continue. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnels or greenhouses; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnels, they can continue to be hung; in the event of sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of highest daily temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, begonia, croton, and pink lady leaf, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be added at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as "bathroom heaters" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so the demand for water is small. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves lose green color, and flower buds stop growing; in severe cases the leaves shrink and wrinkle and the flower buds shrink and fall off. For example, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all drop buds and fruit, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or in-tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, heavenly bamboo, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds and fruits must also be sprayed with water, so that the leaves can be emerald green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. In particular, for tree peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in tunnels for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For purchased Cymbidium orchids cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise, the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February most potted flowers do not need much water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be carried out in a timely manner. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given around noon on clear days to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting the recovery of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, Daphne odora, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, bromeliads, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate can continue to be applied as a topdressing to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants and stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, heavy renewal pruning can be carried out. For flowered branches, only 2 to 3 buds at the base are retained, and all the rest are cut off, to promote more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, vigorous branches, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly pruned for shape, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, banyan, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, white ash, water willow, Elaeagnus, holly, wintergreen, serissa, juniper, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best carried out when the plant is about to end winter dormancy, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: hibiscus, geranium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, sword fern, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, fuchsia, begonia, four-season begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium goeringii, sago palm, Clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo, croton, Syngonium, arrowroot, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, bergamot, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, spray with a 1500-fold solution of 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, once every 10 days, 2 to 3 times in succession.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and corollas of potted cyclamen in tunnels, spray with a 1000- to 1500-fold solution of 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, stop foliar spraying of "Duoxiaohao" and other foliar fertilizers, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying with a 2000-fold solution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, and black round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or killed by spraying with a 2500-fold solution of 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% iron-killing granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season for watering potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc.; after about 2 months, spread it out to dry, and after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flowerpots as a topdressing. For Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium orchids, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used to prepare potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and dig garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, ditches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Platycladus orientalis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, juniper, oriental arborvitae, true cypress, ginkgo, serissa, creeping juniper, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, Caragana, small golden coin plum, winter hazel, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc.

Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixing.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Volume)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, tulip tree, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, tree peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, heavenly bamboo, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, privet, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clumping bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness or wetness in your courtyard, the following points should be noted when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees: first, the minimum temperature that the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not acclimating; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that may cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flower and ground cover plant species suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, salvia, cockscomb, globe amaranth, cockscomb, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula officinalis, corn poppy, zephyr lily, dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flowers and ground cover plant species that are relatively shade-tolerant include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, iris, Acorus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for pot cultivation in household courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements can be chosen, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, money tree, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly called African jasmine), cinnamon species (commonly called peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium orchid, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, hibiscus, Clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, some species with relatively extensive management requirements can be grown, such as heavenly bamboo, sago palm, rhapis palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, cacti, asparagus fern, rubber tree, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. In March, courtyard flower species that can be sown include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summersweet, red maple, tulip tree. For the latter five, the seeds must be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand stratification to promote germination include: cycad, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, fan palm, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia, osmanthus, horse chestnut, heavenly bamboo, holly, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, salvia, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow, four-o'clock, Strelitzia, Clivia, asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-sensitive species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings include: hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Portulacaria afra, gem flower, stone lotus, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo, Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Platycladus orientalis, Daphne odora, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, Japanese white pine 'Zuisho', etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliflora seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions of excellent cultivars of wintersweet, carry out cleft grafting and bag to retain moisture, and the survival rate is relatively high; using three-angled cactus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus balls, preferably in tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, upright cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, etc.

    5. Division. In March, flower species that can be propagated by division include: orchids, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, sago palm, heavenly bamboo, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snake plant, purple triangular oxalis, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as far as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be carried out to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for transplanting wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after budding is acceptable, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, a good and sufficient soil ball should be taken when transplanting; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and vigorous flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through heavy renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, cut them off promptly and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., spray Bordeaux mixture promptly after leaf expansion to prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated lilyturf, zephyr lily, Chinese chive lily, iris, Reineckea carnea, ribbon grass, dwarf lilyturf, red oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Japanese white pine, heavenly bamboo, Chinese elm, trident maple, oak, white ash, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be carried out before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile, organic-rich potting soil to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For indoor white orchid, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, hibiscus, Strelitzia, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, arrowroot, etc., repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal attention must be paid to cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March, work on heat preservation and cold protection must continue; in late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that white orchid, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding the impact of too early sprouting on growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers in areas north of the Yellow River, work on heat preservation and cold protection must continue this month, and care must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus, fuchsia, clerodendrum, jasmine, Chloranthus, white orchid, sago palm, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, begonia, etc., carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches and some yellowed leaves, etc. For trident maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, true cypress, Huangshan pine, black pine, Chinese elm, white ash, oak, red nanmu, etc. mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before budding to further improve their shaping. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., heavy renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for everyone to live on the first floor with a good small flower-growing environment. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their plant body is fleshy and thick with relatively abundant sap, or their leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like forms, with very little transpiration consuming water, or they are native to arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (Opuntia, Cleistocactus, Crassula, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, gem flower, stone lotus, Lithops, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, leaf cactus, kalanchoe, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively resistant to sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony pot cultivation (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, banyan, small-leaf privet, agave, amaryllis, Japanese bush cherry, oak, Chinese elm, trident maple, water willow, black pine, juniper, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, holly, wintergreen, Vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, sun flower, etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as potted plants on slightly lower balconies, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony pot cultivation, such as salvia, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or Clivia seeds are collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as orchid cactus, epiphyllum, jade plant, gem flower, stone lotus, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as a cuttings medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors on a windowsill with better light: gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), dwarf pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, nandina, winter daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, Japanese white pine 'Zuisho' (Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho'), plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture is necessary, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of potted flowers on the balcony

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still kept indoors in March. While taking measures such as keeping warm, protecting against cold, ventilating, and exposing to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively hardy flowering trees and shrubs placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted plants, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures such as building a local shed for protection or moving them indoors or into a shed for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, Chinese holly, wintergreen, black pine, five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adina rubella, and small-leaved privet, pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need styling can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate misting. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases, and destroy them; for dry cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. as antiseptic treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) supported above. Use the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool; in summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, green giant (Philodendron 'Green Giant'), Xanthosoma 'Little Angel', Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc. The stored water is quite ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out of the room, you can also first set up tiered racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for installing shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics in April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow in the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises significantly. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River. Only in areas north of the Huai River and the Yellow River does the harm of snow and frost remain. By the time of Grain Rain, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze and Huai Rivers, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases significantly. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; while in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower-related work includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, four-o'clock, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, moss rose, dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, garden balsam, morning glory, cypress vine, cardinal climber, Nicotiana, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, Spanish needle, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, fairy primrose, nasturtium, Kochia scoparia, mapleleaf hibiscus, poinsettia, basil, asparagus, cosmos, sand ginseng, sensitive plant, etc. Magnoliaceae flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Michelia, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia chingii, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron chinense, hybrid tulip tree, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other landscape flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April include:

Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, Chinese yew, Pittosporum tobira, Chinese tallow, Huangshan pine, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, Ormosia henryi, wintersweet, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Chinese wolfberry, nandina, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after collection in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Fatsia japonica, and nipplefruit, etc. Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its already blackened, whitened, and softened fruits picked at the end of April. After rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them on fertile seedling beds. The seeds can also first be stored in sand until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after two weeks, after about 70% of the seeds have emerged, the covering grass should be removed in time, and a shade shed should be set up at the same time; for cultivating nipplefruit, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing, or planted in the ground and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', ornamental peach, longevity peach, Robinia hispida, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus, etc.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, Aspidistra, ferns, Rhapis excelsa, spider plant, agave, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Chinese evergreen, Aglaonema modestum, Calathea, aloe, Peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, etc. [text unclear] Flowering plants that can be divided in April include: daylily, five-colored plum, Hibiscus, Forsythia, Syringa, Hypericum, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Platycodon, Paeonia suffruticosa, Paeonia lactiflora, Chrysanthemum, etc.; herbaceous flowers that can be divided include: Dahlia, Iris, canna (Canna), Hemerocallis, Oxalis, Oxalis, Cymbidium, etc. In addition, water lilies and water lilies can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most flowering trees and shrubs that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cuttings propagation can be carried out in April. The main types include: boxwood, Mahonia, nandina, cypress, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, tulip tree, Spiraea thunbergii, edgeworthia, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

II. Repotting and transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not severely reduced during repotting, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom, they must never be repotted after leaf expansion.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting open-ground flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowering trees and shrubs, such as camphor, Magnolia grandiflora, Michelia, and Michelia alba, part of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant when they have not yet unfolded leaves, such as Magnolia denudata, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant. Only under the condition that the soil ball is not damaged can the transplanted plant be free from worries afterward.

III. Bonsai styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose trunks and branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, Serissa japonica, Adina rubella, true cypress, Euonymus pendulus, crape myrtle, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis obtusa, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, edgeworthia, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other types suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, Syzygium buxifolium, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, oak, Lindera obtusiloba (Lindera obtusiloba), Diospyros cathayensis, Malus halliana, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus pungens, Chinese holly, golden larch, and tiger thorn, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used in time to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: First, remove buds in time. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and female and male cones can be distinguished on the new shoots, promptly remove all female cones growing at the tips of the new shoots and male cones located at the bases of the new shoots, to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, not watering until dry, and spraying instead of watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered, so that the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, winter daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, apply additional nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth. For potted flower types that are about to bloom, such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, and Michelia alba, topdressing should also be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, etc., with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For open-ground Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet the needs of their vegetative growth.

    2. Shaping and care

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up the money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks into a braid using an odd number of 3, 5, or 7 stems. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting. The money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if it cannot be processed into a braid or planted in time, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust plant shape and prevent diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower types prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-viewing potted plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering trees and shrubs that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, Aucuba japonica, Malus halliana, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated types, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, to create the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics in May: The temperature continues to rise. Rainfall gradually increases from south to north in our country. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. By the time the Grain Full spring rain ends, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing and caring for flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown immediately after collection in May mainly include: fairy primrose, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, loquat, etc. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, attention should be paid to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated. Second, the sowing bed should be covered with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between dry and wet in the bed, which could cause the seeds to "regress." Third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several batches, and set up shade in time to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, attention should be paid to preventing rodents from stealing them and keeping the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally not exceeding 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower types suitable for cuttings propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, Erythrina, nasturtium, Jasminum multiflorum, jasmine, Chloranthus, Acalypha wilkesiana, deutzia, hydrangea, Kerria japonica, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Buddleja, trumpet creeper, gardenia, Epiphyllum, Epipremnum, Epiphyllum, jade plant, graptopetalum, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Lantana camara, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, Mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia liliiflora seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy rhododendron cuttings for cleft grafting to propagate Western rhododendron; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use Artemisia annua as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock; graft superior wintersweet varieties by softwood grafting, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus or triangular stem can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, rubber tree, Aglaia odorata, Western rhododendron, camellia, croton, Michelia figo, red maple, etc.; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most types must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, they can bloom on schedule by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyous, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main types include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and the beginning of May, when Magnolia denudata has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfold leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout relatively late and transplant easily can also be transplanted with a soil ball and established in early May, such as crape myrtle, Hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

As the temperature continues to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spraying water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water directly treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, and then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower types suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, rhododendron, azalea, gardenia, winter daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage types include: sago palm, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-viewing types include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc.

    2. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning When shortening and pruning Michelia alba not long after it has been moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water, dries up, and extends downward. For this reason, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. When pruning potted Chinese rose after flowering, it should be lowered moderately by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal When removing buds from potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the position of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud to be retained; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade. Types include: Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink lady, fan palm, Syngonium, orchids, rhododendron, Strelitzia, camellia, sasanqua, etc. For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, sufficient light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc. Bonsai plants, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, Adina rubella, oak, Serissa japonica, black pine, soft pine, etc., require sufficient light; while Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, Syzygium buxifolium, Sabina chinensis, five-needle pine, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Michelia alba, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, winter daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., after flowering remove the remaining flowers and withered stems, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for producing flower buds again. For foliage-oriented types, such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra, ferns, etc., apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as golden-edged snake plant, five-colored bromeliad, golden-hearted Brazilian ironwood, croton, Caladium, white butterfly Syngonium, pink lady, etc., a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar topdressing, which can make the leaf color appear more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and disease control

For Chinese rose, Rosa multiflora, and rose, attention should be paid to preventing and controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them. For common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue, etc.???citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai styling

Ornamental bonsai plant types that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaved gardenia, Gardenia jasminoides, Buddhist pine, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, Adina rubella, Lindera obtusiloba, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, you must be careful and cautious, and try not to injure the bark and structure of the branches and trunk; otherwise, it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics in June: By June, the temperature rises further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, equally matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers and most bonsai that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, care should be especially careful, so as not to cause root rot due to excessive rain, or cause excessive growth due to insufficient light, disrupting the styling or affecting the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean wet sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white; at this time, open furrows and sow. The covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons have emerged, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 batches, and set up shade in time.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, with high temperature and high humidity, the cambium in the branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cuttings propagation. There are two major categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of types that are difficult to root or root slowly with hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia figo, Chinese holly, wintergreen, lilac, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, coral tree, Erythrina, Belgian rhododendron, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc. The other category consists of types that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, jasmine, Serissa japonica, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Caragana, jasmine, Chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, Lantana camara, Kerria japonica, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, Buddhist pine, nandina, trumpet creeper, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, honeysuckle, hibiscus, Cordyline fruticosa, Hypericum, Hypericum, golden silk willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian ironwood, Ardisia crenata, edgeworthia, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela, Weigela florida, snowball, peach coral, Schefflera, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, Torenia, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope, Cyperus alternifolius, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Take fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: The cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the distal end. The lower cut is dipped in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution for 10 seconds, then inserted into the seedling bed after brief drying. The insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the bed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up a double-layer shade shed for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: Use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Bud grafting: Use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering plum, plum blossom, Elaeagnus, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. Branch grafting: Use oil camellia, red-flowered camellia, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among hairy rhododendrons as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian rhododendron or Western rhododendron.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower types that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, Cyperus alternifolius, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant, Acorus, golden-edged lilyturf, etc.

II. Seed collection and transplanting/establishment

    1. Seed collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, Silene pendula, Silene armeria, hollyhock, malva, primrose, Calceolaria, amaryllis (sow immediately after collection), etc.

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: After collecting wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until spring of the following year before sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate. Peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds should be stored in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, then be washed clean and stored in wet sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo. When they germinate, choose nursery land for sowing.

    2. Transplanting/establishment and potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting/establishment or potting. They are: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature, the irrigation water and potting soil temperature should be kept basically consistent. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying. When there are several days without rain, in addition to watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers, to increase the humidity of the local space. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness and wetness of the potting soil.

Flower types that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the potting soil moist is sufficient. Deeply dormant types such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), Ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperature show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, surviving the summer in dormancy in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped for them, move them to a cool place, and keep the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible. After the potting soil dries, loosen the soil again, so as not to cause root rot in the plants; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing types, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium, Calathea, sword fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, Aspidistra, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, Anthurium, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, winter daphne, rhododendron, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Lantana camara, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For types currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower types, such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, Stapelia, Sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning For vigorously growing types such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, true cypress, Sabina chinensis, Adina rubella, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the styling should be pruned or shortened as early as possible, which can keep the plant clearly layered and in good shape, and can promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect styling as early as possible.

(2) Bud removal For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, Chinese rose, etc., promptly remove the remaining flowers and withered stems, and appropriately shorten the branches that have already flowered, to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees and shrubs such as Michelia alba, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, etc., in order to promote good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, pinch and remove buds from excessively vigorous branches, inhibit the growth of main and lateral shoots, and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus, Strelitzia, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink lady, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, Peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, winter daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower types must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, Serissa japonica, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese bush cherry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Adina rubella, oak, black pine, soft pine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, Mahonia, grape, etc.; Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, Bambusa multiplex, five-needle pine, Podocarpus nagi, etc. can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and disease control

(1) Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, crabapple, etc. are easily harmed by trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, Rosa multiflora, and rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for prevention and control.

(3) Michelia alba, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are easily harmed by aphids. Promptly choose suitable pesticides and spray to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected by anthracnose. Promptly spray carbendazim and other fungicides for prevention and control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc. have young leaves easily eaten by citrus swallowtail larvae. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai styling

Plant types that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus pungens, Huashan pine, Sabina chinensis, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, Serissa japonica, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, Adina rubella, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Styling in June must be careful, with gentle wiring and slow bending. Never be impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics in July: On July 7, the Yangtze-Huai region ends the plum rain weather. On July 16, the dog days begin, and on August 15, the dog days end. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of our country is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Yangtze and Huai Rivers it is 28°C. Only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, fairy primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, wild peach, mountain peach, Elaeagnus, etc. can also be picked. After washing off the flesh, immediately open furrows and sow, or store the washed stone fruits in wet sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds released from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    In July, herbaceous flowers suitable for cutting propagation include: Scutellaria indica, begonias, coleus, Pilea cadierei, salvia, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Aster novi-belgii, purple loosestrife, Cyperus alternifolius, creeping fig, coral flower, peperomia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Polygonum chinense, Bryophyllum pinnatum, pothos, etc.
    In July, woody flowering plants suitable for cutting propagation include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Weigela, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, daphne, gardenia, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus, pyracantha, Cordyline fruticosa, Chinese hibiscus, Serissa foetida, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, boxwood species, fig, Magnolia liliiflora, osmanthus, rhododendron species, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Salix babylonica var. tortuosa, Salix babylonica var. chrysocoma, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July some flowering plants can also be propagated by water cuttings. These are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus, etc. To propagate flowering plants by water cuttings, first, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforate it and use it as a fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttings clean, and add a few pieces of charcoal for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of Prunus davidiana and Prunus persica can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, Prunus persica 'Densa', red-leaf peach, plum blossom, Prunus triloba, red-leaf plum, Prunus mume 'Meiren', etc.; using rooted cuttings of wild rose, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and 'Shisimei' rose as rootstock, bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses and rugosa roses, etc.; using potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, *grafting to propagate Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc.; using potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock, *grafting to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; also using 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, adopting the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be determined whether it has survived; using 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock, cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; using cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; using current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or Malus halliana and crabapple as rootstock, performing "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; using Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    In July, flowering plants suitable for layering propagation include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, Campsis grandiflora, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, Weigela florida, Caragana sinica, osmanthus, gardenia, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    In July, ornamental plants suitable for division include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus species, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia spathacea, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, kidney fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Planting Out
    1. Seed collection
    In July, herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis tinctoria, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus spectabilis, etc.
    In July, flowering plant seeds that can be collected include: wintersweet, plum, Prunus persica, Prunus davidiana, Prunus triloba, etc.
    2. Transplanting, planting out and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up herbaceous flowers for display during the National Day period. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day period for holiday decoration. They are mainly: salvia, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Impatiens hawkeri, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, Aster tataricus, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as Mahonia, Hypericum monogynum, Ligustrum vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Aucuba japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis' balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade shelters should be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying should be increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management. Do not be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state during high temperatures, such as Oxalis corymbosa, geranium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, Senecio rowleyanus, Senecio radicans, daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activities basically stop and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter a deep dormant state during high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dicentra spectabilis, etc., in July they show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, surviving the summer in a dormant state in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil from becoming too dry.
For flower species with vigorous growth, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Araucaria heterophylla, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Dieffenbachia, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but also appropriate leaf-surface spraying should be given, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given; do not be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaf surfaces, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Do not pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowering plants to "drop green leaves," or cause the rotting of the plants' nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is its flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water restriction" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and then pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. Watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is appropriate, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilization
    In July, fertilization management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. First, species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, Hibiscus mutabilis, etc.; third, species for winter flower viewing and fruit appreciation, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    In July, herbaceous flowers that should be given strengthened fertilization include: salvia (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, Aster tataricus, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, Rudbeckia hirta, petunia, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, Mirabilis jalapa, dragon's mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Cestrum nocturnum, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, hibiscus, Hibiscus mutabilis, etc. There are relatively many foliage plant species, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria heterophylla, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia, etc., fertilization must be stopped to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species with vigorous growth, strong sprouting ability and tolerance to pruning. Pinching means using the fingers to directly remove the tender terminal buds at the tips. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Buxus sinica, wintersweet, pyracantha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Tamarix chinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, Celtis sinensis, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, crape myrtle, Serissa foetida, Murraya paniculata, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and make them form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient for finger pinching, such as Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', etc.
For potted flower species that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, etc., their spent flowers and faded stems should be removed promptly, and necessary shortening pruning should be given to branches that have already flowered, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For rhododendron, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year. Special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sunlight. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchid species, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Dieffenbachia, pothos, peperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, pyracantha, jasmine, Serissa foetida, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, Bambusa multiplex, Pinus parviflora, etc., appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature this month is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, sago palm, Araucaria heterophylla, Abelmoschus manihot, Livistona chinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix canariensis, bromeliads, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera octophylla, Aspidistra elatior, Aucuba japonica, etc., while it is not advisable to choose kidney fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, etc. In addition, in management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioning vents to prevent direct wind from blowing on the plants and causing leaf tip withering and edge scorching.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new buds unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are susceptible to anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times solution or folpet 500 times solution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass gathers on the stump or trunk of plum blossom, peach blossom, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, flowering cherry, Prunus triloba, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and burying carbofuran in the soil can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the tree trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent pesticide damage.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leafroller moth that harms Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens. When this pest occurs severely, it can eat all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, rue, etc. Stomach poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect that harms Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus chinensis, and Fraxinus chinensis, late July to late August is its emergence period. Choose the right time to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing harm again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, camellia, red-leaf plum, Cedrus deodara, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs. Promptly spray pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide for control.
IV. Bonsai Styling
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after damage and are not easy to heal and recover. Most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and styling. Those that can still be styled are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and the plants are required to be those potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa foetida, Pinus thunbergii, Buxus sinica, Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, plant styling should be careful and meticulous: wire gently and slowly, apply force gradually, and do not rush the operation or use excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to break the branches and trunk of the plant and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Volume)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperature, strong light and low humidity, and is the high-temperature dry-hot period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or heat-tolerant species. Among them, woody flowering plants mainly include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Pinus armandii, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Phoenix canariensis, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, Erythrina variegata (coral tree), Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera actinophylla, Plumeria rubra, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', oleander, Washingtonia, Trachycarpus fortunei, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Impatiens balsamina, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet variegata, salvia, dahlia, Aster tataricus, Begonia maculata, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, Eschscholzia californica, cockscomb, Calendula officinalis, Lycoris, Catharanthus roseus, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Mirabilis jalapa, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Aglaonema commutatum, etc.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowering plants that can be sown include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Calycanthus chinensis, Calycanthus floridus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. They can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Phoenix canariensis can be sand-stored for germination and then sown in bags. After ornamental pomegranate fruits mature and crack, harvest them, rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, sand-store until germination and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, Pelargonium, petunia, snapdragon, Echinacea purpurea, Oxalis species, Achillea millefolium, Tropaeolum majus, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, cyclamen, Pericallis hybrida, Begonia semperflorens, Primula obconica, coleus, Calendula officinalis, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from de-alkalinized rice chaff ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, carry out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings to propagate the following flowering plant species: pyracantha, Mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Erythrina, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Osmanthus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, hydrangea, Magnolia liliiflora, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as substrate, cuttings can be taken of boxwood species, pomegranate, hibiscus, French holly, Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa foetida, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as salvia, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc. can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowering plants can be grafted: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and *graft osmanthus; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstock, bud graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock, *graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedlings of Prunus persica as rootstock, bud graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered Prunus glandulosa, Prunus triloba, etc.; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud graft Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, etc. as rootstock, bud graft superior variety roses; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. as rootstock, bud graft Malus micromalus and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock, crown-change graft red maple and feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock, branch graft Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'; use single-petal camellia as rootstock, branch graft superior variety camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock, branch graft and *graft superior variety wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Campsis grandiflora, Rosa banksiae, climbing rose, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, Caragana sinica, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, osmanthus species, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Chinese hibiscus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, kidney fern, Aglaonema commutatum, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shade, watering, spraying and other management should be strengthened after transplanting, which can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as Ligustrum vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Platycladus orientalis 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis' balls, Juniperus chinensis balls, boxwood balls, pomegranate, hibiscus, Aucuba japonica, French holly, etc. In courtyards, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as salvia, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, etc., which are expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for roadside hedges in courtyards such as boxwood, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum vicaryi, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, etc., pruning should continue to be given. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus chinensis, Myrica rubra, pyracantha, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, holly, etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering plants that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately shortened. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as salvia, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, marigold, etc., tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants with straw ropes tied around their trunks, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum vicaryi, Prunus x cistena, Codiaeum variegatum, Acalypha wilkesiana, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Alpinia zerumbet variegata, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For species that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', ornamental pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, etc., as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, Hibiscus mutabilis, Anemone hupehensis, etc., appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed through leaf-surface topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on Cedrus deodara, Ligustrum lucidum, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control. For chrysanthemum beetles, aphids, etc. occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and Prodenia litura that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate 1000 times solution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flowering plant species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calycanthus chinensis, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, Mirabilis jalapa, phlox, Eschscholzia californica, Cerastium tomentosum, etc.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia masoniana, Begonia rex, etc., water droplets falling on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera jamesonii (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also must not be sprinkled with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and inject water into the leaf tanks to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, just keep the potting soil slightly moist, and create a relatively cool and moist environment by spraying the small environment around the flower pots.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, rubber tree, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem, Araucaria heterophylla, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Phoenix roebelenii, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Livistona chinensis, pothos, Dracaena fragrans, Yucca elephantipes, Pachira aquatica, kidney fern, Cordyline fruticosa, Fagraea fragrans (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (Pingan wood), Pachira aquatica (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Dieffenbachia, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Codiaeum variegatum, Fatsia japonica, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., as well as fruit-viewing bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, pyracantha, Diospyros armata, fruiting pomegranate, nandina, papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as salvia, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Aster tataricus, chrysanthemum, dwarf sunflower, etc., apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flowering plant species in the midst of flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied through leaf-surface topdressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, do not let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, so as to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaf surfaces once after fertilization to wash off fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, Begonia semperflorens, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, sedum species, Oxalis triangularis, cactus species, cactus ball species, etc., stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer coolness, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, Dypsis lutescens, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, Rhapis excelsa, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchid grass species, Dieffenbachia, peperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, begonia species, Dracaena sanderiana, Aspidistra elatior, asparagus fern, purple hosta, etc., continue to provide shed shading, pull up the shade net at 9 a.m., and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune those tree stump bonsai with vigorous growth, tolerance to pruning and easy sprouting, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, etc. For Chinese rose, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., after each flowering, carry out shortening pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud stripping and bud removal?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterflies, rose sawflies and peach red-necked longhorn beetles. Attach importance to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, leaf blight, etc. Attach importance to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, stem borers, etc.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, balconies still have strong light and dry-hot air. Only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, ornamental pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis stump, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, Agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. In August, part of the flowering plants on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Calathea, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, Fatsia japonica, etc.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film for moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be a mixture of rice chaff ash and fine sand at a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia maculata, gardenia, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria rubra, geranium, Aglaonema modestum, fuchsia, etc.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying of balcony potted flowers should be careful and cautious. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use bricks to build a simple sand bed, place 10 cm thick wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, etc. Usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for their safe overwintering. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, etc., they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using spraying instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, wisteria, Carmona retusa, Adina rubella, Agave, sago palm, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilization. In August, stop fertilization for balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or apply 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowering plants mainly grown for flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, pyracantha, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, etc., after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, plum blossom, Acer buergerianum, etc., cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss or wet cloth, which can not only retain moisture and lower temperature, but also protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use a shade net to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowering plants on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors during the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Serissa foetida, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, small Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum quihoui, Buxus sinica, pyracantha, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, faded stems, dead branches and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on balconies. Promptly spray 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder 1500 times solution to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowering plants, use the method of attaching transparent tape to remove them. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them.

Flower Planting Handbook (September Volume)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China slowly decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm, Phoenix canariensis, Australian cycad, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, Hibiscus mutabilis, Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, Plumeria rubra, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera octophylla, Garcinia (Clusiaceae), Bambusa vulgaris 'Wamin', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Cordyline fruticosa, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, salvia, early chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, Catharanthus roseus, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flowering plant species that can be sown include: tree peony, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Phoenix canariensis, etc. Among them, Aesculus seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing, the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw for moisture retention. Calycanthus chinensis seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for Calycanthus chinensis, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the above seeds must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, Dianthus, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, Eschscholzia californica, daisy, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Rudbeckia hirta, iris, Verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, Primula, Tropaeolum, Pericallis hybrida, Begonia semperflorens, Gerbera, Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting substrate, flowering plant species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in courtyards include: pyracantha, Mahonia, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Odontonema, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedling bed, woody flowering plants that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum monogynum, Spiraea, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, hydrangea, French holly, Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa foetida, gardenia, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as salvia, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flowering plants can be propagated by grafting: use peony root segments as rootstock to graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedlings of Prunus persica, apricot, etc. as rootstock, bud graft to propagate Prunus triloba, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bagged moisture-retaining branch graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock, *graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock, *graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock, *graft superior variety wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowering plant species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Michelia figo, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, Sansevieria, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema commutatum, kidney fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Liriope platyphylla, Aspidistra elatior, Liriope muscari, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Scilla peruviana, etc. can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless required by special circumstances, flowering plants are generally not transplanted in courtyards. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of good soil balls. Species such as: oleander, Sabina chinensis, Michelia figo, Juniperus chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum vicaryi, boxwood species, Hypericum monogynum, French holly, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, spraying and shading management must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is absolutely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: salvia, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, Catharanthus roseus, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, Calendula officinalis, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning vigorous, strongly sprouting courtyard hedges and topiary plants; this is also the last pruning of the year in northern regions for topiary plants during the growing season. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood types, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged golden-head arborvitae, and others. Topiary ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: dragon juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, Forsythia, and others. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be pinched back include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, French marigold, and others. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to encourage a full plant shape and to produce more flower spikes on lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowering plants that bloom continuously over a long period, such as floribunda roses, polyantha roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana, and Bougainvillea, promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately cut back the flowering branches, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. Continuing to water and mist trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged; second, mist the straw ropes wrapped around tree trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, mist the canopy to reduce leaf transpiration and increase local humidity. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to maintain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, variegated shell ginger, croton, spotted aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, and others, appropriately apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to keep their leaf color bright and vivid. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs that bloom continuously or are grown in autumn for flowers and fruit, such as crape myrtle, roses, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', calamondin, flowering pomegranate, Bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, and others, as well as large numbers of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is suitable to apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and Dan osmanthus that are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and other flowering trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the citrus longhorned beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert poison sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on rose and chrysanthemum plants, apply 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution in the early stage of disease onset.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees of the Magnoliaceae family, such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, and others. In addition, there are buckeye types, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple types, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, yew, wintersweet, and others. For Magnoliaceae, yew, buckeye, crabapple, and others, after treatment the seeds must be stored in moist sand until early spring of the following year, and sown only after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, and others; after collection, thresh promptly and store dry until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, light is strong, temperatures are high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or mist once in the morning and once in the afternoon, and in the second half of the month reduce to once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn following summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. In September, most flowers are in a period of vigorous growth, and some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so fertilization management should be highly prioritized this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon types, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine, fish-tail palm, pothos, red (green) gem, green imperial, silver queen, Calathea types, Syngonium, fiddle-leaf fig, and others, still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with especially long bloom periods or autumn as their peak bloom season, such as roses, tricolor Lantana, Lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, four-season osmanthus, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', osmanthus, and others; fruit ornamental plants such as bitter orange, nandina, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, papaya, golden bullet tree, Callicarpa, fruiting pomegranate, and others; and colorful-leaf plants such as croton, spotted aucuba, bromeliad types, variegated ficus, golden-edged Dracaena fragrans, Cordyline, coleus, and others, additional fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For Fuchsia, geranium, calla lily, cyclamen, begonia, Daphne, Christmas cactus, sedum types, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, clivia, and Epiphyllum that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the bud enlargement stage, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, banana shrub, azalea, and others, low-concentration balanced fertilizer can be applied; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, dwarf sunflower, and others, apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet the needs of bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, sword fern, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium, Calathea types, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, green imperial, silver queen, orchid grass, pink lady leaf, queen palm, Aspidistra, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, little angel, red (green) gem, crystal anthurium, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, red-veined shrimp plant, asparagus fern, Schefflera, variegated brake fern, watermelon peperomia, Dieffenbachia, green giant, anthurium, staghorn fern, mirror grass, Adina, king palm, lucky bamboo, and others, provide 5 to 6 hours of light daily through shading; for light-loving species, such as trident maple, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, ginkgo, water myrtle, black pine, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, roses, oak, and Chinese fringe tree, full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, tiger thorn, red nan, Loropetalum, epiphyllum, nandina, jade tree, azalea types, camellia, sasanqua, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, and others, appropriate shading can be given around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and affect their recovery.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue bud removal and disbudding; for roses, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, Bougainvillea, Lantana, gold-bracted flower, coral flower, and others, prune after each flowering; for tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan, red nan, small-leaf privet, water myrtle, box-leaved holly, arborvitae (stump), true juniper, Chinese fringe tree, tamarisk, and others, continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, Pachira aquatica seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For peach red-necked longhorned beetles appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, double pink peach, and other plants, insert poison sticks to block and kill them, or bury carbofuran granules for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, and others appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air; only some potted flowers long placed on the balcony or relatively resistant potted flowering trees can adapt to the special balcony environment. They are: black pine, Nishiki pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water myrtle, trident maple, Chinese holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, box-leaved holly, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan, Bougainvillea, roses, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry, Buddhist pine, prickly elm, snow-in-summer, firethorn, Lantana, and others. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, crystal anthurium, anthurium, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, and others; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm, fish-tail palm, queen palm, spotted trunk tree, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, and others. Propagation of balcony flowers in September: on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate some ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, Cordyline, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', four-season osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-back osmanthus, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, banana shrub, silver queen Chinese evergreen, and others. Water propagation indoors is also possible for Schefflera, roses, gardenia, fig, Guangdong evergreen, and others.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. For some relatively moisture-loving ornamental plants, such as spring orchid, Jian orchid, cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, camellia, sasanqua, little angel, Chloranthus, bromeliads, and others, they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water basin or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and usually misted instead of watered. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and misting 1 to 2 times a day, or use the soaking method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. Watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, taking care that water temperature does not differ too much from soil and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted bonsai, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, roses, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, and others, continue applying quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose buds are enlarging, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, chrysanthemum, and others, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or balanced NPK compound fertilizer depending on the species. Fertilizers applied to flowers on the balcony should not have an unusual odor, especially not a foul smell, and when applying, take care not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, and so on; when there are not many potted flowers, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water myrtle, box-leaved holly, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, small-leaf privet, Chinese fringe tree, and others, still need pinching or pruning. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, spent flowers, and withered stems should also be promptly removed.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% kelthane wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for double-striped spruce longhorned beetles appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, and creeping juniper bonsai, and peach red-necked longhorned beetles appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach, and other flowering trees, continue inserting poison sticks or burying carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet, and other flowering trees, when few in number they can be wiped off manually, and when numerous, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display

    In October, temperatures drop across most of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce types, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated ficus, hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, ponytail palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, thick-leaf fig, fish-tail palm, areca palm, queen palm, Cordyline, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, giant Buddha-belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, dew-drenched tree, orange jasmine, nandina, and others. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia, dragon's mouth flower, French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, petunia, Guinea impatiens, and others. Note: In North China, Northeast China, and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.

Propagation of Courtyard Flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub types, magnolia types, manglietia types, buckeye types, summer wintersweet, rich seed, soapberry, kuding tea, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, yew, fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela, palm, pond cypress, and others. Among them, when sowing buckeye, the seed hilum should face downward, and summer wintersweet seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours before sowing. Except for summer wintersweet and Weigela seeds, which can be stored dry until spring sowing, all other species can have their seeds cleaned and stored in moist sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in spring of the following year before sowing. Note that seeds should be rinsed clean before storage for germination; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held and scattered when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mold. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, dianthus types, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, and others. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, four-season primrose, African daisy, and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-back osmanthus, Schefflera, night-blooming jasmine, Lantana, firethorn, Mahonia, finger citron, bleeding heart vine, Cordyline, banana shrub, aucuba, hibiscus, Bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela, coral bells, red-flowered spiraea, snow spray, Hypericum, red-leaf plum, roses, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, hibiscus, oleander, fig, Chaenomeles, and others. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow heart soil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowering trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, begonia, bamboo-joint begonia, inch plant, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, golden-vein shrimp plant, cold chrysanthemum, and others. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Nishiki pine; use peony roots as rootstock to graft excellent varieties of peony; use one-year-old trident maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft red maple, feather maple, and others; use one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft excellent varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, and others; use three-edged arrow as rootstock to graft various ball cacti; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Woody flower species suitable for ground layering include: camellia, plum blossom, Weigela, hydrangea, weigela, Chaenomeles, August osmanthus, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, purple magnolia, gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia, banana shrub, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, and others.

    5. Division. Woody flower species suitable for division include: nandina, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, peony, Chaenomeles, coral bells, double-flowered kerria, spray flower, spiraea, sago palm, and others. Herbaceous flower species suitable for division include: peony, hosta, spring orchid, purple calyx, bird of paradise, cymbidium, Jian orchid, Persian buttercup, black-eyed Susan, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen Chinese evergreen, Oxalis triangularis, multi-head green imperial, sword fern, Aspidistra, and others. Flower species suitable for bulb division include: calla lily, amaryllis, freesia, spider lily, tulip, Mediterranean bluebell, and others.

Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves fall, according to local climate changes, such as hibiscus, redbud, elm-leaved plum, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, double pink peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, and others. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, nandina, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, golden-edged golden-head arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf boxwood, box-leaved holly, boxwood, and others, when transplanting: first, cut back before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species suitable for planting out include: dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, lily turf, and others. Bulb flower species suitable for ground planting include: narcissus, red-mouth narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, and others.

    2. Pruning. Perform the last pruning of the year on courtyard hedges and topiary plants, requiring precision and accuracy, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-edged golden-head arborvitae, golden-edged boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, box-leaved holly, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, small-leaf privet, and others. Topiary plants needing pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, and others. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowering trees in the courtyard, such as roses, crape myrtle, Lantana, Bougainvillea, and others, continue cutting off spent flowers and withered stems, and moderately cut back flowering branches. For courtyard ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, and others, promptly cut off opened flower spikes to encourage lateral shoots to continue budding and blooming, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowering trees newly planted this year, continue watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist but not waterlogged; second, continue misting the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to maintain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For courtyard ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for osmanthus that has already bloomed, open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for pruned roses, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, as well as camellia, banana shrub, plum blossom, wintersweet, and others, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for nandina and firethorn in the fruit-viewing stage, as well as southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet tree, and others, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, and others, continue using poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep, gather, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, soapberry, buckeye, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia cylindrica, Michelia champaca, golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered manglietia, Michelia platypetala, pond cypress, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor, privet, small-leaf privet, Viburnum macrocephalum, hall crabapple, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, yew, oil tea, and others; these seeds must all be stored in moist sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: crape myrtle, tulip tree, red maple, trident maple, golden larch, dawn redwood, willow cedar, Chinese tallow, silk tree, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, southern sour jujube, redbud, camptotheca, five-angle maple, and others. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, garden balsam, four-o'clock, Kochia scoparia, strawflower, cosmos, mountain snow, painted euphorbia, mimosa, dancing grass, and others.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, and others, when the aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature no lower than 5°C, and cut and replant in spring of the following year.

Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, temperatures are still above 17°C and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, green giant, red gem, and others, water once a day on sunny days, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne, geranium, fuchsia, and others, increase watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, and others that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more to help the buds enlarge. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering to accelerate the lignification of new shoots, helping them overwinter safely. The best watering times are 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, Cymbidium, Belgian azalea, red-mouth narcissus, and others that bloom in winter or early spring, continue applying a mixture of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, nandina, winter coral, rich seed, golden bullet tree, and others, apply a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea types, Syngonium, green gem, Boston fern, peperomia types, and others, shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid to late October, first prune off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, weak branches, and so on; for leggy branches, perform severe cutback; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing branch and leaf death.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid to late October, some ornamental plant species10℃ can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-protected, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them together, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum tiger, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms, and other pests.

Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, light is still strong and the air is dry; only those potted flowering trees with relatively strong resistance that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: black pine, Nishiki pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, water myrtle, Chinese fringe tree, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, box-leaved holly, pomegranate, Bougainvillea, thick-leaf fig, ginkgo, roses, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, Lantana, tamarisk, red maple, and others. Some cold-sensitive southern flowering tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when temperatures drop to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium, crystal anthurium, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, and others. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm, fish-tail palm, queen palm, spotted trunk, Schefflera, and others. In northern regions, when temperatures drop to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers in early October: on the balcony, wide-mouth large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate a small number of ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, banana shrub, jasmine, Chloranthus, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, hibiscus, finger citron, silver queen Chinese evergreen, golden pothos, geranium, and others.

Management of Balcony Flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, and others, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, and others, watering should not be excessive, and misting the branches and leaves can effectively promote bud enlargement. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel, Aspidistra, Cordyline, bird's nest fern, anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea types, pothos, and others, misting should be primary and watering secondary, to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium, bromeliads, Chinese Cymbidium, and others, apply a mixture of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, nandina, golden bullet tree, rich seed, firethorn, winter coral, and others, continue applying a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, and others, apply 1 to 2 times thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the potting soil surface, and prevent soil compaction, continue to cover the potting soil surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, and so on, especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, which should be given more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days, move them indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. Shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid to late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree, and others, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can be untied first; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, re-bind at a different position for fixation, which can avoid severe damage to the plant from overly deep constriction marks. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as roses, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles, hall crabapple, and others, appropriate pruning can also be done.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves from all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    November weather characteristics: This month is the turn of autumn and winter; November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to see snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on two aspects: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowering trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, plowing the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following content.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African daisy, clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, and others.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: coral bells, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor, pencil cedar, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, soapberry, rich seed (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, and others.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings are possible, but plastic film mulching must be added; flowering tree species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink, and other varieties), roses (referring to floribunda roses, Elizabeth, and other easy-to-root varieties), Chaenomeles, and others.

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, Chaenomeles, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese elm, snow-in-summer, and others. Some root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: box-leaved holly, box-leaved holly, large-leaf boxwood, silver-edged boxwood, clearweed, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia, golden-edged snow-in-summer, and others. With proper management, complete roots can grow by spring of the following year, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate topiary greening shapes. In winter, bamboo-joint begonia, nerved begonia, lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, hibiscus, fuchsia, jade tree, Portulacaria afra, red-back osmanthus, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, and others can also be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses, and can be used for potting cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, and others can also be cut and stored until spring of the following year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up rooting and increase the survival rate of cuttings.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag indoors to graft red maple and feather maple; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft plum blossom (bury the graft union in soil to overwinter); use thick branches of roses (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scions, and use branches of excellent rose varieties as scions, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots simultaneously, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species suitable for ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, weigela, osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, banana shrub, coral bells, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, snow spray, and others.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles, coral bells, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia, Buddleja, peony, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo, and others.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut and replanted for planting.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: white hyacinth orchid, Jian orchid, spring orchid, cymbidium, hosta, purple calyx, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliads, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, lily turf, autumn zephyr lily, evergreen, Aspidistra, air plant, and others.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, maple-leaf mallow, and others.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress, Japanese false cypress, Japanese cypress, silk tree, sweetgum, camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood, Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, caragana, coral bells. Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in moist sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, palm, camphor, pencil cedar, soapberry, wolfberry, yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, roses (for cultivating rootstock), and others.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale, and others.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, buckeye, linden, giant redbud, tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya, crabapple, and others. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, branches and trunk must be appropriately cut back or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches pruned, with a good soil ball and the trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or bound with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree.

    In November, plum bonsai, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles, hall crabapple, and others can be transplanted into pots and placed in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, red-mouth narcissus, and others should be moved into plastic tunnels to encourage them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, or rooms, the amount of watering in November is based on keeping the potting soil moist as the specific standard, and it must not be too wet; if temperatures are low and watering is excessive, plants easily rot at the roots and die. If indoor temperatures are high, appropriately increase watering and give necessary leaf misting.

For potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, and others, as well as fruit ornamental plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, nandina, winter coral, rich seed, and others, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also frequently mist the plants to help flower buds enlarge and grow, and also make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed inside sheds, greenhouses, and homes, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed with water regularly so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In greenhouses and homes with higher temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Syngonium podosum (arrowhead plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Pollia japonica (Japanese pollia), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Codiaeum variegatum (croton), and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', the amount of watering should be controlled to help them survive the winter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time to water potted flowers is between 10 and 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically the same as the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by water that is too cold, which would in turn affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Pericallis hybrida (florist's cineraria), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Clivia miniata (clivia), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), ornamental bromeliads, Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus), and Aechmea (urn plants), low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; using a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering shrubs, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary sheds, topdressing should be stopped to facilitate normal dormancy and overwintering. For most flowering shrubs grown in the ground, such as Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Manglietia fordiana, Michelia chapensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia figo (banana shrub), Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Spiraea (spirea), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Vitis vinifera (grape), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Paeonia lactiflora (Chinese peony), and Hypericum monogynum (golden St. John's wort), dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can receive less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), and Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), laying a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) that have not yet been pruned; for each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their bases and remove all thin and weak branches. For unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), carry out heavy renewal pruning on the current year's branches; apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current year's branches, so as to encourage more robust new shoots the following year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering shrubs in flower beds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Camellia japonica (camellia), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), and Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), cut off all malformed branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches, and diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately shorten water sprouts that protrude beyond the crown. In addition, in November, large palm trees can be stripped of their fibrous sheaths and their trunks cleaned, so that they display their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering shrubs that are not very afraid of cold, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Rhododendron (azalea), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Michelia alba (white champaca), Chloranthus spicatus, Cymbidium faberi, Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Citrus limon (lemon), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island date palm), and Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), they can be placed in plastic sheds, provided the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For potted flower species that are not cold-tolerant, such as Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Pollia japonica (Japanese pollia), Syngonium podosum (arrowhead plant), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (deeply lobed philodendron), Aglaia odorata (Chinese perfume plant), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Odontonema strictum (firespike), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Fittonia (red/green mosaic plant), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Plumeria rubra (frangipani), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya (cattleya orchid), and Cymbidium (cymbidium), they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is no lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in double-layer plastic sheds.

For bonsai or potted flowering shrubs that are relatively cold-tolerant, such as Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Buxus sinica (Chinese box), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), they can be buried directly in the soil together with their pots in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot; under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in sheds, greenhouses, or homes in November, apart from ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be carried out; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which can cause flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop. In addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let cold wind blow directly on the plants.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as Vitis vinifera (grape), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Rosa rugosa (rugosa rose), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica (camellia), and Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthemum), collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce disease occurrence the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing. For dead-trunk and split-trunk stump bonsai, apply lime sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the stump's xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects, and similar pests appearing on potted flowering shrubs placed in greenhouses or sheds (they may occur on Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), orchids, Camellia japonica (camellia), Clivia miniata (clivia), and Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant)), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second, spray and kill them with pesticides such as profenofos.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba (white champaca), Aglaia odorata (Chinese perfume plant), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), and Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose)), spraying tobacco water can be used for control.

For Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea) placed in sheds, stop spraying leaf fertilizer products; otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Sabina procumbens (creeping juniper), Euonymus pendulus, Serissa japonica (snowbush), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Corylopsis sinensis (winter hazel), Xylosma congestum, Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Buxus sinica (Chinese box), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia (pearl box), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), and Malus halliana (hall crabapple).

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and trained with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted again.

For new stumps such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Adina rubella, Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), and Elaeagnus pungens (thorny elaeagnus), after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burying and high-mounding method; after they sprout branches the following year, shaping can then be carried out.

For stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, suitable pots can be selected for repotting, and matched with fist-sized stones and dotted with moss; they can then be used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Prunus persica 'Duplex' (ornamental peach), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), and Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), in November suitable pots can be selected for potting; strengthen water management, and they can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks, and auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent hard frosts. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects of work: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, sheds, and homes; second, do a good job of pruning, cleaning, and turning and fertilizing the soil for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixed potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata (clivia), Begonia × tuberhybrida (tuberous begonia), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), and Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy). Flowering shrub species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (such as 'Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Ilex species (holly), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering shrub species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: Prunus mume (Japanese apricot) (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Green Calyx'); Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (mainly easily rooted cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet) (heel cuttings), Spiraea (spirea), and Buxus species (box). Among these, cuttings of Prunus mume (Japanese apricot) and Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum) should use yellow subsoil; cuttings of Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) should use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to keep warm and moist.

In greenhouses, leaf cuttings can be used to propagate Saintpaulia ionantha (African violet); combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken from Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (queen of the night), Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Graptopetalum paraguayense (ghost plant), Echeveria glauca, Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Kalanchoe pinnata (air plant), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Begonia cucullata (wax begonia), Begonia maculata (polka dot begonia), Begonia × hiemalis (Rieger begonia), Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Lantana camara (common lantana), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Epipremnum aureum (golden pothos), and Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant). Using cold frames, cuttings can also be used to propagate Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus' (golden heart/golden edge euonymus), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Hypericum monogynum (golden St. John's wort), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), and Euonymus alatus (winged euonymus). In addition, branches of Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Syringa oblata (early lilac), and Vitis vinifera (grape) can be cut and stored in sand, then used for cuttings the following spring.

    3. Grafting. For superior Prunus mume (Japanese apricot) cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', in December, seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, or peach sown that year can be used; after digging up the rootstock, cleft grafting or cut grafting can be carried out, then planted in seedbeds at a certain spacing between plants and rows, with soil mounded above the graft union, even covering most of the scion. Take care that water does not seep into the union when watering, cover with plastic film to keep warm and moist, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering plastic film. Use excavated wild rose plants to bud-graft superior Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) cultivars; or use healthy branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) scions on the upper end, and then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion sections into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film to keep moist and warm, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering plastic film. Only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to keep moist.

    4. Layering. Flowering shrub species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Camellia japonica (camellia), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves' spiraea), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri (lacecap viburnum), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), and Punica granatum (pomegranate).

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: Zephyranthes candida (rain lily), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Oxalis corymbosa (pink woodsorrel), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nephrolepis auriculata (sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris tectorum (wall iris), Liriope muscari (big blue lilyturf), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Kalanchoe pinnata (air plant), and Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen). When cutting off offset plants from the base of large variegated bromeliads for division, they must be small plants that have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the separated offsets are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Hypericum monogynum (golden St. John's wort), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus, Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Agave sisalana (sisal), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), and Sasa fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo).

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Tagetes erecta (marigold), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), and Clivia miniata (clivia). Clivia miniata seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Ilex species (holly), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), and Photinia species (photinia). After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only when the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders in December include: Dianthus species (pinks), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Viola × wittrockiana (pansy), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and Bellis perennis (daisy). Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in sheds, such as Bellis perennis (daisy), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Dianthus species (pinks), and Viola × wittrockiana (pansy); by the following spring they can be used for street display.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tilia tuan (Tuan linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Prunus persica 'Duplex' (ornamental peach), Styphnolobium japonicum (Japanese pagoda tree), and Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree). However, transplanting evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Rhododendron (azalea), and Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly). When transplanting, first carry out heavy shortening of the main shoot and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, retain a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration. After transplanting, the leaves and trunk should also be sprayed with water frequently to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering shrubs that can be potted in December include: Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet) stumps, Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), and Malus halliana (hall crabapple). Place them in sheds for flower-forcing treatment, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), and Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus) should continue to be kept in sheds for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic sheds where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering frost damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri' (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Aucuba japonica var. variegata (spotted laurel), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Nephrolepis auriculata (sword fern), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Camellia japonica (camellia), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), Sasa fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo), and Cycas revoluta (sago palm).

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature of no lower than 5°C, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Michelia alba (white champaca), Chloranthus spicatus, Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Lantana camara (common lantana), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus limon (lemon), Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), and Bambusa ventricosa (buddha belly bamboo), they can overwinter in double-layer plastic sheds. For species requiring an overwintering temperature of no lower than 10°C, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (angel wings), Peperomia (radiator plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia (mosaic plant), bromeliads, Pollia japonica (Japanese pollia), Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Cymbidium hybridum (boat orchid), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Aglaia odorata (Chinese perfume plant), Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya (cattleya orchid), Cymbidium (cymbidium), Zamia furfuracea (cardboard cycad), Fittonia (red/green mosaic plant), Oncidium (dancing lady orchid), and Cymbidium hookerianum (Hooker's cymbidium), inside well-sealed double-layer sheds, appropriate heating should also be provided. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the sheds, and removed after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Xylosma congestum, Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Buxus species (box), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina virginiana (eastern red cedar), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), and Fraxinus hupehensis, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; if particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in sheds, greenhouses, or homes, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants must not only be kept at an appropriate indoor temperature, but also should be ventilated. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, sheds, and homes, the potting soil should be kept moist as the standard; if the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, it is very easy to cause root rot in the plants. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate leaf spraying can be given.

For potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Pericallis hybrida (florist's cineraria), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), and Narcissus poeticus (European narcissus), and fruit ornamental types such as Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus limon (lemon), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Citrus microcarpa (calamondin), Fortunella hindsii (Hong Kong kumquat), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), and Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds swell and also to increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, the potting soil should be kept moist, and the leaves should also be sprayed with water, always keeping the leaves clean. For foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Pollia japonica (Japanese pollia), Syngonium podosum (arrowhead plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the best time to water is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and replenish watering in time. For transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray the leaves with water around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering shrubs, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary sheds, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most greening trees and flowering shrubs grown in the ground, such as Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Manglietia fordiana, Michelia species (michelia), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Paeonia lactiflora (Chinese peony), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Hypericum monogynum (golden St. John's wort), Vitis vinifera (grape), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Spiraea (spirea), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Philadelphus pekinensis (Peking mock orange), Deutzia scabra (fuzzy deutzia), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Syringa oblata (early lilac), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' rose), Hypericum monogynum (golden St. John's wort), Salix babylonica (weeping willow), Cryptomeria fortunei (Chinese cedar), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Cupressus species (cypress), Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), Amygdalus triloba (flowering almond), Prunus japonica (Japanese bush cherry), Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), and Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Rhododendron (azalea), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), bromeliads, Daphne odora (winter daphne), Pericallis hybrida (florist's cineraria), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Clivia miniata (clivia), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), and Freesia refracta (freesia), a 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as topdressing to promote flower bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that were not fully pruned in November. Hedge and green wall types include Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Euonymus japonicus (evergreen spindle tree), Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis' (pyramidal Chinese juniper), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens' (four-season osmanthus), and Photinia davidsoniae. Ball types include Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Buxus species (box), Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), and Juniperus rigida (needle juniper). While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering shrubs not fully pruned in November, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), and Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root zone.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), and Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth. For plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be carried out together with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering shrubs whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as Vitis vinifera (grape), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Rosa rugosa (rugosa rose), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica (camellia), and Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence the following year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted Pericallis hybrida (florist's cineraria) and gray mold on Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species prone to scale insects among flowers and trees in greenhouses and sheds, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Camellia japonica (camellia), and Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), first wipe them with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as profenofos.

For flower and tree species on whose potted plants aphids often appear when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba (white champaca), Aglaia odorata (Chinese perfume plant), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), and Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering shrubs such as Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Camellia japonica (camellia), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Nerium oleander (oleander), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), and Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus (Indian wax scale), Ceroplastes japonicus (Japanese wax scale), Ceroplastes rubens (red wax scale), Diaspididae (armored scales), Unaspis yanonensis (arrowhead scale), Pseudococcidae (mealybugs), and Eriococcidae (felt scales). At this time, spraying and killing with relatively high-concentration pesticides such as profenofos, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the need for raising seedlings and mixing potting soil next year, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and the like into water vats or water tanks, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, and the like can be piled in alternating layers with garden soil and set on fire to burn, forming burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year.

Barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, and the like can be mixed with garden soil for piling and composting, sealed for fermentation, and used for topdressing seedlings and mixing potting soil the following year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then mix them thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December. For plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and the like can be applied before turning and planting. Do not make beds for the time being; after overwintering and freezing clods, in the following early spring, dig furrows and make beds again, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Sabina procumbens (creeping juniper), Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii (Sargent's juniper), Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Pinus densiflora (Japanese red pine), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Euonymus pendulus, Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Corylopsis sinensis (winter hazel), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (hall crabapple), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Buxus sinica (Chinese box), Buxus sinica var. parvifolia (pearl box), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Fraxinus hupehensis, and Xylosma congestum.

For bonsai plants that have been fixed and shaped by coiling and training with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for hanging, tying, and guiding.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), and Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle) that have already been shaped, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well; strengthen management so that they can be used the following year for display in public places or homes.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is a must: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from causing the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of China enter the severe cold period. January 20 is Major Cold, and cold air from the north frequently moves southward, with heavy frost and thick snow, bringing the lowest temperatures of the year. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, and the like in greenhouses, sheds, and homes; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the soil, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata (clivia), Begonia × tuberhybrida (tuberous begonia), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), and Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy). Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) ('Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Photinia davidsoniae, Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), and Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree).

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: Prunus mume (Japanese apricot) (cultivars such as 'Green Calyx' and 'Gongfen'), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet) (heel cuttings), Spiraea (spirea), Buxus species (box), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Euonymus alatus (winged euonymus), Hypericum monogynum (golden St. John's wort), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), and Jasminum officinale (common jasmine). Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus, Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Fuchsia hybrida (fuchsia), Saintpaulia ionantha (African violet) (leaf cuttings), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation), Cyperus alternifolius (umbrella plant), Graptopetalum paraguayense (ghost plant), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Crassula arborescens (silver jade plant), Echeveria glauca, Epiphyllum oxypetalum (queen of the night), Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Pilea peperomioides (Chinese money plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Kalanchoe pinnata (air plant), Begonia × hiemalis (Rieger begonia), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Excoecaria cochinchinensis (Chinese croton), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Epipremnum aureum (golden pothos), and Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant). In addition, branches of Syringa oblata (early lilac), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), Vitis vinifera (grape), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Deutzia scabra (fuzzy deutzia), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Platanus acerifolia (London plane), and Ficus carica (fig) can be cut and stored in sand, then used for cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior Prunus mume (Japanese apricot) cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, Prunus davidiana (David's peach), or Prunus persica (peach) can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them in seedbeds and cover with plastic film to keep moist and protect from cold. In Guangdong, people often bud-graft Citrus microcarpa (calamondin) and Fortunella margarita (kumquat) between Minor Cold and Major Cold. Use excavated wild rose plants to bud-graft superior Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) cultivars, with the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as rootstock-scion, and cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose); grafting and cutting propagation are carried out simultaneously, covered with plastic film to keep moist and protect from cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Camellia japonica (camellia), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri (lacecap viburnum), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves' spiraea), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple).

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Liriope muscari (big blue lilyturf), Liriope spicata 'Variegata' (variegated lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Zephyranthes candida (rain lily), Zephyranthes grandiflora (pink rain lily), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Tradescantia spathacea (Moses-in-the-cradle), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nephrolepis auriculata (sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris tectorum (wall iris), Chlorophytum species (spider plant), Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Kalanchoe pinnata (air plant), bromeliads, Tulbaghia fragrans, Alpinia zerumbet (shell ginger), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), and Aloe vera (aloe). Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Hypericum monogynum (golden St. John's wort), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus (Indian damnacanthus), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Euonymus alatus (winged euonymus), Buxus species (box), and Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia).

    6. Seed collection. In January, if there are mature Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern) or Clivia miniata (clivia) seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry) seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Ilex species (holly), and Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia) can be collected; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can sowing be carried out.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species (magnolia), Michelia species (michelia), Photinia species (photinia), and Ilex species (holly), to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out and rubbed clean again, and clean fine sand must be replaced for storage. If the seeds are found to be dry, supplement with spraying water in time. If the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, sowing must be carried out immediately, and plastic film, rice straw, pine needles, or the like should be added to keep warm and moist.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold areas include: Dianthus species (pinks), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and Bellis perennis (daisy). In relatively cold areas, seedlings of Dianthus species (pinks), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Viola × wittrockiana (pansy), and Primula malacoides (fairy primrose) can be potted and first placed in simple plastic sheds; after spring returns and the weather warms, they can then be used for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Liquidambar formosana (Chinese sweetgum), Acer species (maple), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tilia tuan (Tuan linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Prunus persica 'Duplex' (ornamental peach), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), Euonymus alatus (winged euonymus), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Styphnolobium japonicum (Japanese pagoda tree), and Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree). For evergreen tree species, especially Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree) and Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), except under special circumstances, transplanting should generally be moved forward to December or delayed to February. Of course, in wind-sheltered places, after transplanting carry out heavy shortening and strengthen cold protection and watering management after transplanting, and it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation site preparation; these are mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Acer palmatum (Japanese maple), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), wild plum, Elaeagnus pungens (thorny elaeagnus), and Euonymus pendulus. For evergreen tree stumps, such as Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), and Xylosma congestum, heavy shortening must be carried out and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burying and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to the overwintering of potted flowers and bonsai. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, a special environment for safe overwintering should be created for them, either in a greenhouse, in a shed, in a home, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic sheds where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure lows of about 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri' (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Nephrolepis auriculata (sword fern), Rhapis excelsa (broadleaf lady palm), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium (cymbidium), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Acorus calamus (sweet flag), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), and Sasa fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo). In double-layer plastic sheds where the temperature is not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure lows of about 5°C can be placed, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba (white champaca), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Cymbidium faberi, Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus limon (lemon), Dypsis lutescens (areca palm), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Cymbidium ensifolium (sword-leaf cymbidium), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (queen of the night), Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Bambusa ventricosa (buddha belly bamboo), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), and Lantana camara (common lantana). In double-layer plastic sheds or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure lows of about 10°C can be placed, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (angel wings), Syngonium podosum (arrowhead plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), bromeliads, Peperomia (radiator plant), Coleus scutellarioides (coleus), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia (mosaic plant), Fittonia (red/green mosaic plant), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata (Chinese perfume plant), Cymbidium hybridum (boat orchid), Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya (cattleya orchid), Oncidium (dancing lady orchid), Vanda (vanda orchid), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant), Zamia furfuracea (cardboard cycad), Adenium obesum (desert rose), Pollia japonica (Japanese pollia), Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), and Plectranthus scutellarioides (coral plant). During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the sheds, and the addition of straw curtains can stop only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel should be strengthened, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; the fire must not be cut off and the electricity must not go out, otherwise it is very easy to cause frost damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (sweet plum), Xylosma congestum, Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Buxus species (box), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta (Chinese holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), and Fraxinus hupehensis, they can be buried in the soil together with their pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and when particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film or soft grass can be added for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in sheds, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, apart from maintaining an appropriate air temperature, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try as much as possible to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and sheds during each southward movement of cold air. If broken glass, torn film, and the like are found, they should be blocked and repaired in time, so as not to freeze the potted flowers. When providing coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, careful inspection should also be carried out so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or shed, in order to prevent smoke damage and the like from causing flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps); they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (hall crabapple), and Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine) can also be placed in sheds at about 15°C for flower forcing, with an appropriate increase in light duration, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering shrubs during the Spring Festival. For potted Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), and Freesia refracta (freesia) that were placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthening water and fertilizer management can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for watering management of potted flowers, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, to keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot, or death. The best watering time is arranged within the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, sheds, and homes, it is appropriate to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, watering should be reduced accordingly; when the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate leaf spraying can be given. For most foliage plants, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should also be paid to spraying the leaves with water, always keeping the plant leaves clean. For foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Pollia japonica (Japanese pollia), Syngonium podosum (arrowhead plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), and Codiaeum variegatum (croton), when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can endure, the amount of watering should be especially controlled. For potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Pericallis hybrida (florist's cineraria), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), and Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and fruit ornamental types such as Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Citrus aurantium var. amara (bitter orange), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (finger citron), Citrus limon (lemon), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Fortunella hindsii (Hong Kong kumquat), and Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds swell and also to increase the bright color of the fruit.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water. Replenish watering in time for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering in time. Especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriately spray the leaves with water around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most greening trees and flowering shrubs grown in the ground, such as Malus and Chaenomeles species (crabapple and flowering quince), Magnolia denudata (Yulan magnolia), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Magnolia × soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Manglietia fordiana, Michelia species (michelia), Acer species (maple), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese horse chestnut), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Tilia tuan (Tuan linden), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (Japanese apricot), Podocarpus macrophyllus (buddhist pine), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Schima superba (Chinese guger tree), Machilus pingii, Nyssa sinensis, Camptotheca acuminata (happy tree), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Forsythia viridissima (golden bell), Buxus species (box), Vitis vinifera (grape), Viburnum odoratissimum (sweet viburnum), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Prunus japonica (Japanese bush cherry), Amygdalus triloba (flowering almond), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Deutzia scabra (fuzzy deutzia), Philadelphus pekinensis (Peking mock orange), Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' rose), Elaeocarpus sylvestris (woodland elaeocarpus), Salix × aureo-pendula (golden weeping willow), Ulmus pumila var. pendula (weeping Siberian elm), Cryptomeria fortunei (Chinese cedar), Taiwania cryptomerioides (Taiwan cedar), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Styphnolobium japonicum (Japanese pagoda tree), Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush), Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Syringa oblata (early lilac), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Phyllostachys nigra (black bamboo), Punica granatum (pomegranate), and Eriobotrya japonica (loquat), if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the tree root zone, such as cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings, laying a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Pericallis hybrida (florist's cineraria), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Aechmea (urn plants), Clivia miniata (clivia), Strelitzia reginae (bird of paradise), and Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus), low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as topdressing, to help plant growth and flower bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering plants, foliage plants, and bonsai kept in greenhouses, since the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it can easily cause root rot and death of the plants.

6. Pruning

For hedges, green walls, and topiary balls that have not yet been pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs that have not yet been pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Banksian rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palm, grape, etc., continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury basal fertilizer around the outer edge of their root zones to meet their growth needs in spring.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned with wiring as a supplement, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, Japanese hornbeam, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, and Chinese juniper, you can continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant's trunk and branches, and your personal aesthetic preferences, laying a good foundation for growth and shaping in spring. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

7. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, elm-leaf species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, etc., that have been hollowed out by red-necked longhorn beetles, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches should be burned.

Clear away the fallen leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather them together and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

For Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, Ceroplastes rubens, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and soft scale that appear on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum tobira, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, photinia, etc., spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, fenitrothion, lime sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold that easily appears on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient: iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

8. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat for soaking and fermentation, so as to provide liquid fertilizer for potted flowers during the growing season; stack dead grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. with garden soil in layers, set them on fire and burn them to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond mud, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

9. Plowing and Freezing of Soil

For nursery land that has not yet been turned over in December, seize the time to plow in early January. While plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and farmyard manure, etc. After overwintering and freezing, dig furrows and make beds in early spring for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxwood, sawara cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, wintersweet, Euonymus, banyan tree, wisteria, etc. After shaping, the plants should preferably be placed indoors or in a simple plastic greenhouse, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms up. This helps the healing of parts that may be damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding materials should be removed and the wiring and training should be redone.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which can damage the plant's fibrous roots and may cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate. Also prevent plants planted on small rocks from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly to ensure they can safely overwinter.