Monstera deliciosa care methods and precautions, temperature should be moderate
Monstera deliciosa is famous for its unique leaves, and it is well known that Monstera deliciosa has many effects and benefits, but to bring out all of its benefits, it needs to grow healthily and vigorously
Monstera deliciosa is famous for its unique leaves, and it is well known that Monstera deliciosa has many effects and benefits, but to bring out all of its benefits, it needs to grow healthily and vigorously. So what is the best way to grow Monstera deliciosa? Below we will take a look together at the care methods and precautions for Monstera deliciosa.
How to grow Monstera deliciosa
To grow Monstera deliciosa well, you first need to know its most suitable growing environment. Monstera deliciosa prefers a warm and humid environment. It has fairly strong shade tolerance and is rather afraid of strong direct sunlight and dry weather. The most suitable temperature is 15-20 degrees. When the temperature exceeds 30 degrees or falls below 5 degrees, growth will stall. Below we will look in detail at how to grow Monstera deliciosa from the aspects of temperature, light, soil and water.
Monstera deliciosa care methods and precautions
1. Temperature
The favorite temperature for Monstera deliciosa is 15-20 degrees. Of course, Monstera deliciosa can grow above 10 degrees or below 30 degrees. In spring and autumn, the temperature is generally quite suitable, but in summer or winter the temperature needs to be controlled. Keeping it in an environment below 5 degrees for a long time may cause frost damage.
Precautions: Monstera deliciosa likes warmth and fears severe cold. When the temperature drops to 6 degrees in winter, it should be moved indoors to avoid cold wind blowing on it. In summer, it should be kept in a ventilated and shaded environment.
2. Light
Monstera deliciosa, like Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, is a plant with fairly strong shade tolerance and can grow rapidly in a semi-shaded environment. It particularly dislikes direct strong light. Ordinary light is enough to ensure its normal growth.
Precautions: Although Monstera deliciosa has strong shade tolerance, do not keep it in a dim, lightless environment for a long time. Its growth still requires a certain amount of light. This point is often overlooked in the care methods and precautions for Monstera deliciosa.
3. Soil
The soil for planting Monstera deliciosa should mainly be fertile, slightly acidic soil, such as leaf mold and peat soil, which are best. Pond mud or black mountain soil can also be used, and repotting should be ensured once a year.
Precautions: Besides repotting it every year, you should also pay attention to loosening the soil for Monstera deliciosa regularly. Doing so can improve the soil's air permeability and drainage, which is beneficial for the absorption of water and fertilizer.
4. Water
Keep the potting soil moist at all times, and do not let it sit in waterlogged or drought conditions. You can water it once a day. In summer, it can be watered once in the morning and once in the evening. If the weather is dry, you can also spray water on the leaves, and so on.
Precautions: When watering, by no means take shortcuts and think that watering heavily once means it can be ignored for several days. If the roots of Monstera deliciosa are kept in a waterlogged environment for a long time, they may rot.
Summary: The care methods and precautions for Monstera deliciosa can be summarized as: likes warmth and fears severe cold, likes cool shade and dislikes strong light, likes moisture and dislikes waterlogging, likes fertile soil and dislikes poor soil, likes organic fertilizer and dislikes chemical fertilizer. As long as you follow this principle and the methods above, you can grow Monstera deliciosa well.
Plants that absorb carbon dioxide, plants that release oxygen are worth growing indoors
Plants that absorb carbon dioxide1. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Sansevieria trifasciata (snake plant)Besides absorbing carbon dioxide at night, it can also absorb formaldehyde, toluene, hydrogen sulfide and so on. According to measurements, placing one pot of Sansevieria trifasciata in a 10 square space can absorb 80% of harmful gases.
Growing Sansevieria trifasciata: likes light, tolerates drought, tolerates moisture, easy to keep alive. Watering should be moderate, not too wet. Water less in winter and keep the soil dry.
Suitable spaces: study, bedroom
2. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Schlumbergera truncata (Christmas cactus)Schlumbergera truncata has a cute shape, and its flowers are red. It absorbs carbon dioxide at night and can also absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides and ammonia gas
Growing Schlumbergera truncata: likes a shaded and warm environment, is not cold-tolerant, and likes acidic soil. Do not water too much; keeping the soil moist is enough. When there are many stems and flowers, spray more water.
Suitable spaces: entrance hall, balcony, bedroom
3. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Strelitzia reginae (bird of paradise)Strelitzia reginae, also known as bird of paradise, is fresh and elegant. It can absorb carbon dioxide at night and increase the concentration of negative oxygen ions in the space.
Growing Strelitzia reginae: likes light, likes fertilizer, and requires a warm and humid environment. Water according to the principle of drying before wetting. In summer, watering should be sufficient, and the leaves should be sprayed frequently. In winter, the amount of watering can be controlled.
Suitable spaces: living room, bedroom
4. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Aloe veraAloe vera can release oxygen and absorb carbon dioxide both at night and during the day. It can also absorb volatile gases such as benzene and formaldehyde, and take in suspended dust.
Growing Aloe vera: needs sufficient light, fears cold and frost, and is afraid of waterlogging. It is best to cultivate it in loose soil that does not easily compact. In spring and autumn, the potting soil should preferably be on the moist side. In winter and early spring, watering must be strictly controlled.
Suitable spaces: balcony, bedroom, study, kitchen, etc.
5. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Saxifraga stolonifera (strawberry begonia)Saxifraga stolonifera can convert nitrogen oxides in the air into plant cell proteins, absorb carbon dioxide, and increase negative oxygen ions in the space.
Saxifraga stolonifera likes shade and moisture, has strong cold tolerance, and is afraid of drought. In summer, besides keeping the potting soil moist, it also needs frequent spraying. In winter it must not be too wet, otherwise the roots easily rot.
Suitable spaces: small plants can be placed on windowsills in the kitchen or bedroom. It also very much likes damp, shaded environments such as bathrooms.
6. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Monstera deliciosaThe amount of carbon dioxide absorbed by Monstera deliciosa at night can reach 6 times that of other plants. At the same time, it can also absorb harmful gases such as sulfur dioxide and carbon monoxide.
Growing Monstera deliciosa: likes warmth, fears cold, and likes a humid, semi-shaded environment. It is afraid of strong light and dryness. In spring and autumn, water once every 2-3 days to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. In winter, reduce the amount of watering, spray water and wipe the leaves to help photosynthesis.
Suitable spaces: living room, corners of the bedroom.
7. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Asplenium nidus (bird's nest fern)Asplenium nidus is an excellent air freshener. Its broad leaves can absorb a large amount of carbon dioxide and purify the space.
Growing Asplenium nidus: likes a warm and humid environment with bright but not direct light. In spring and summer, water more and spray frequently to maintain air humidity. When watering, each watering must soak through.
Suitable spaces: living room, windowsill, bedroom.
8. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Adenium obesum (desert rose)Adenium obesum, also known as Tianbao flower, not only has delicate and beautiful flowers, but can also absorb carbon dioxide at night and increase air humidity.
Growing Adenium obesum: likes a dry environment with good light, tolerates drought and heat. When watering, it is better to keep it dry than wet. In summer, generally water once every 3 days, and water again after the surface soil dries. In winter, the soil should be kept dry.
Suitable spaces: living room, dining room, balcony, bedroom
9. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Haworthiopsis fasciata (zebra plant)Also known as pheasant tail and striped snake-tail orchid, its function is basically similar to that of Sansevieria trifasciata, and it can also regulate indoor carbon dioxide levels at night.
Growing Haworthiopsis fasciata: likes a dry environment with sufficient light. The principle for watering is to water once the soil is dry, and water until water overflows from the bottom of the pot. Water less in winter, and spraying water into the air is enough.
Suitable spaces: small pots are suitable for bedrooms and study desks, while larger plants can be grown on balconies.
10. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy)Kalanchoe blossfeldiana has small, dainty flowers scattered like stars. It can absorb carbon dioxide at night and also has a strong anti-radiation effect.
Growing Kalanchoe blossfeldiana: likes a warm, humid environment with sufficient light. Water once every 3-4 days, and the potting soil should preferably be moist but leaning dry.
Suitable spaces: entrance hall, dining room, bedroom. It is a very good small display arrangement
11. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Begonia hiemalis (Rieger begonia)Begonia hiemalis has a long flowering period and rich flower colors, with good home decorative effect. It can also absorb carbon dioxide at night, being both beautiful and healthy.
Growing Begonia hiemalis: likes a warm, humid environment with good ventilation. The growing temperature is 18-22 degrees. When it is too hot or too cold, it needs to be kept indoors. The potting soil should remain moist, and must not dry out completely or become too wet.
Suitable spaces: living room, dining room, bedroom
12. Absorbs carbon dioxide: Dieffenbachia seguine (spotted dumb cane)Dieffenbachia seguine has brilliant leaves and can absorb harmful gases such as carbon dioxide and formaldehyde.
Growing Dieffenbachia seguine: likes a warm, humid, semi-dry environment, is not cold-tolerant, is afraid of drought, and avoids strong direct sunlight. During the growing period, it should be watered sufficiently and the leaves should be sprayed frequently. In winter, watering should be controlled, otherwise the roots easily rot.
Suitable spaces: living room, corners of the bedroom.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the essence of the complete guide to watering flowers
In the process of growing flowers, watering is of utmost importance. Treating and caring for flowers well, watering is the foundation. In the process of planting flowers and plants, watering is a very important issue and the key to the success or failure and quality of the entire cultivation.As the saying goes, water is the source of life, and no flower or tree can do without water. Based on the author's years of experience and lessons in growing flowers and plants, combined with several misunderstandings that are currently easy to fall into in home flower growing, here I will discuss with old and new flower friends the knowledge of watering flowers.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering flowers
First, watering should depend on different situations such as the type of flower, the condition of the plant, and the season. Watering for home flower growing is like any other task: if you want to grow flowers and plants well, you cannot be the least bit careless. You must respect the laws of plant growth, observe carefully and often, and continuously think things through, so that you can cultivate vigorous flowers and trees.1、Flower type: Different flowers have different water requirements. For example, aquatic plants cannot do without water for even a moment, succulents actually benefit from being watered once a week, while most foliage plants need the soil kept in a slightly moist state frequently.
2、Plant condition: Usually smaller plants or newly propagated plants are not drought-tolerant; larger plants or plants that have already taken shape are more drought-tolerant.
3、Cultivation location: Flowers placed in the open air need more water, while flowers placed in a greenhouse need less water.
4、Seasonal changes: Summer is dry and hot, so flowers need more water. Winter has low temperatures, flowers grow slowly, and transpiration is small, so watering should be less. In autumn and winter, as the temperature drops, many non-cold-tolerant flowers need to be brought indoors to avoid the cold. However, due to improper watering, flowers may drop leaves, grow leggy, or even die. Therefore, the first thing to note is the timing of watering. It is best to water on a clear morning, and water as little as possible in the evening. In addition, you should also grasp the principle of watering more for large plants and watering frequently for small pots. Furthermore, after flowers are brought indoors, you must wait until the potting soil is dry before watering. Even for flowers that like moist soil, such as Zantedeschia aethiopica and Begonia cucullata, you should wait until the surface of the potting soil is dry before watering. For flowers that like a dry environment, such as Sansevieria trifasciata and Echinopsis tubiflora, you must wait until the potting soil is air-dried from top to bottom before watering.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering flowers
Second, scientific watering is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. In specific operation, attention should be paid to the following "five looks":
1、Look at water quality: The water needed by flowers and trees is best unpolluted natural precipitation. Rainwater and snowmelt are the first choice for watering flowers. Ordinary tap water has purifying agents added during the purification process, so it is not suitable for watering flowers directly. It is best to store it for one or two days so the chlorine in the water volatilizes before use. Alternatively, putting a piece of vitamin C in a basin of tap water can also eliminate the chlorine in a short time. Water used to boil eggs, tea water, fermented rice washing water, water from changing fish tank water, as well as beer and sugar water, all contain rich nutrients suitable for the growth of flowers and trees and are very good water for watering flowers. In recent years, magnetized water and laser water have also become very good water for watering flowers.2、Look at water temperature: The closer the water temperature is to the soil temperature, the better. When the difference between soil temperature and water temperature is large, do not water flowers, so as to avoid cold water damaging the root system. The most practical method is to store some reserve water in a watering basin or shallow water tank near the potted flowers, which helps naturally adjust the difference in water temperature. Under normal circumstances, the difference between water temperature and soil temperature should be kept within 5°C so that root damage will not occur.
3、Look at timing: Temperatures differ throughout the four seasons, and the amount of water used when watering flowers should also differ. In early spring when it is still cold and then suddenly warm, the weather is changeable. At this time potted flowers begin to sprout and root, and their water demand is high, so the potting soil should be kept moist. In summer, when it is hot and dry, evaporation is fast, so watering should be doubled. In autumn, watering should be appropriately reduced. In winter, most flowers and trees are in a dormant state, so it is enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist.
4、Look at the flower pot: The principle of watering potted flowers should also be determined by the size, depth and material of the flower pot. A small pot is shallow, so watering should be less but frequent. Clay pots have good water permeability and the potting soil dries easily, so water frequently. Stone pots and glazed pots do not easily allow water to seep through, so watering should not be too frequent; long-term water accumulation will cause the flowers to rot their roots.
5、Look at the flowers and trees: Different flowers have different water requirements, so watering should vary according to the flower. Common cacti and flowers such as Aloe vera and Sedum have underdeveloped root systems and should be watered less. Some flowers and trees have a dense layer of fine hairs on their leaves, such as Begonia, Sinningia speciosa and Calceolaria, and should not have water sprayed on the leaf surface, otherwise the moisture is difficult to evaporate and they easily become moldy and sick. There are also many flowers whose leaves are small and whose water evaporation is slow; watering less allows them to bloom more, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Murraya paniculata and Sageretia thea. In addition, flowers and trees should be watered more during the peak growing season and bud stage, and watered less during the flowering period. Newly pruned flowers should be watered less, otherwise the branches and leaves will grow in vain and affect the shape.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering flowers
Again, like any crop, flowers are extremely sensitive to water. Water is the life of flowers, and also their disease.
One,Distinguish different flowers and master the watering principles. For hygrophilous flowers, such as Acorus calamus, Monstera deliciosa and Zantedeschia aethiopica, since they can grow well only in a moist environment, the watering principle should be "rather wet than dry." For drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti, since their stems and leaves can store a large amount of water and they have strong drought tolerance but dislike waterlogging, the watering principle should be "rather dry than wet." For semi-drought-tolerant flowers, such as Camellia japonica and Rhododendron, since their leaves are waxy or have large amounts of fine hairs and are relatively drought-tolerant, the watering principle should be "water thoroughly when dry." For mesophytic flowers, such as Rosa chinensis and Punica granatum, since both too dry and too wet soil will cause poor growth, the watering principle should be "dry before wet." For aquatic flowers, such as Nelumbo nucifera and Nymphaea, since they cannot live away from water, the watering principle is "a continuous supply."Two,Adjust measures according to the flower and the time, and determine the amount of watering. For flowers in the seedling stage and fruiting stage, watering should be controlled, while during vigorous growth and flowering, more water should be given. In summer, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased and the frequency of watering increased. In winter, water less, or do not water until dry. Large flower pots should be watered appropriately more, and small flower pots less. During continuous sunny and dry weather, water more; during continuous rainy weather, do not water, and also pay attention to draining accumulated water from the pot. In high-temperature seasons, it is suitable to water in the morning and evening, while in winter it is suitable to water around noon.
Three,Improve watering quality and clarify the watering location. For the water quality used for potted flowers, first, do not use sewage from ponds, ditches or canals to contaminate the flower seedlings; second, do not directly use tap water from the same day, to prevent excessive chloride ions causing poisoning. It is better to store tap water in a vat or bucket for 2-3 days before use. Third, avoid using hard water with high salt content to water flowers; it is better to use soft water with low salt content. Fourth, advocate storing and using natural rainwater to water flowers. Generally, flowers should be watered at the roots, and foliage plants can have water sprayed on the leaves, but flowering plants should not have water sprayed on the leaves, such as Cyclamen persicum and Clivia miniata. Especially around noon, do not use cold water to water flowers, so as to avoid a strong temperature contrast causing physiological imbalance and causing the plant to wilt immediately.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering flowers
(1) Misconceptions about watering flowers
One, in daily life, people often overindulge precious flowers and trees that they especially like, fearing that they will not grow well or even dry out and die, so they constantly water them. As a result, the roots of the plant cannot get air, respiration is affected, and finally the root system rots and the plant dies.Two, when watering flowers and trees, it is like a dragonfly skimming the water. Although they are watered often, it is often "half watering." The result is that the soil is often wet on top and dry below, wet on the surface and dry inside, and in fact the plant roots cannot get much water at all. Some people only spray water on the leaves when watering and do not water the potting soil, and the result is the same. Three, when watering a "dry pot," seeing water come out of the bottom of the pot makes one think it has been thoroughly watered. In fact, the soil in the pot remains wet around the edges and dry in the middle for a long time, forming a "hollow radish," and the roots of the flowers and trees do not evenly absorb water.
Four, for potted flowers and trees, people often look at them many times and water them many times. When they have no time or forget to look, they water less or not at all, all depending on personal mood. This causes the flowers and trees either to dry out or to rot their roots from being too wet.
Five, without considering the ecological habits of the flowers and trees, climate change, flower pot size, plant condition, and placement location (strong or weak light, good or poor ventilation, etc.), people adopt "routine official business" and regularly water everything uniformly, treating them all equally.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - the complete guide to watering flowers
(2) Precautions for watering
In fact, watering flowers and trees is a relatively complex body of knowledge, and must be treated differently according to natural objective conditions and the objective needs of the plant. To carry out correct watering, one should generally also try hard to do the following:First look: look at whether the potting soil is dry or wet, look at whether the soil color is deep or light, and look at whether the branches and leaves are upright or wilted.
Second touch: touch the softness or hardness of the soil, and touch whether the soil is loose or compact.
Third listen: use a finger to tap or knock the pot body, and listen to whether the sound is crisp or dull.
Four rules to follow: do not water if the soil is dry, and when you water, water thoroughly (the entire pot of soil must be soaked); at the same time, alternate between dry and wet periods, letting the soil dry out and become wet again, and never allow water to accumulate in the saucer under the pot.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to watering flowers
(3) Daily notes on watering flowers
Many flower enthusiasts have the good habit of saving water, often using leftover water from washing dishes or vegetables to water their flowers. Little do they know that these "good habits" can cause fatal harm to plants. Although flowers and plants are plants, they still have their own "high standards" for their environment, and when things are not quite to their liking, they will throw a tantrum to show you.So, what issues should we pay special attention to when watering?
First, do not water flowers with water containing grease or soap powder. These substances have a destructive effect on the soil, changing the pH of the potting soil, and in severe cases can even cause the flowers to die. By comparison, rice-washing water or old water changed out of a fish tank has some fertilizing value and is much better than tap water; these waters can definitely be used.
Second, avoid watering at midday in the height of summer. At this time, because the temperature is relatively high, the pores of the plant roots are open, and a sudden watering can easily give the flowers a "cold."
Third, for flowers with hairy leaf surfaces, do not water with a spray bottle. After misting the leaf surface, the water does not evaporate easily and rot occurs very easily, so we had best not use a spray bottle to water, and should instead use a watering method.
Fourth, if the flowers are in full bloom, do not mist them too much. Otherwise it will cause the petals to rot. If you want the flowers to set seed, watering during the flowering period will also affect plant fertilization, thereby reducing the seed-setting rate.
Fifth, never give "half-way water." "Half-way water" means the amount of water applied only moistens the surface soil, while the soil below is dry. Over time, a hard, compacted layer will form at the boundary between dry and wet in the soil, making it difficult for the plant's roots to penetrate downward. Therefore, when watering, we must grasp the principle of "if you water, water thoroughly." At the same time, along with watering, we should also develop the good habit of loosening the soil: loosening the soil should be done after watering, when the potting soil is half dry, and the depth should be until roots are visible; cutting some surface roots does no harm, and actually helps stimulate new roots.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to watering flowers
(4) Differences in flower-watering application scenarios
1. Precautions for watering flowers grown on a balconyWhen growing flowers in pots on a balcony, because there is no contact with ground moisture, they dry out more easily than flowers planted in the ground. Beginners often worry that the pot is short of water, and so regardless of whether the potting soil is dry or wet, and without checking whether the weather is clear or rainy, they just water every day, and as a result often water the flowers to death. Therefore, beginners must learn the technique of watering.
(1)Pay attention to water quality: In cities, only tap water can be used. When using tap water to water flowers, it is best to first put the water into a bucket or jar and store it for 1-2 days before watering, because tap water contains bleaching powder and chlorine, and after storage it is relatively safe. If you can collect rainwater on rainy days and use it to water flowers, the water quality is better than tap water.
(2)Pay attention to water temperature: When watering, pay attention to the water temperature; it should be roughly the same as the temperature of the potting soil. If watering in summer, at least let the tap water run out and sit for a few hours so the water temperature approaches the air temperature before use; otherwise, pouring very cold water suddenly onto flowers at a higher temperature will harm them. Even more, do not take well water and immediately use it to water flowers, because the temperature of well water is relatively low.
(3)Pay attention to the amount of water: The amount of water should be determined according to the habits of the flowers, the temperature and air humidity, the dryness or wetness of the potting soil, the growth stage of the flowers, and many other conditions. Moisture-loving flowers can be watered a bit more, while drought-loving flowers should be watered less; herbaceous flowers should be watered more, while woody flowers should be watered less; flowers with large, soft leaves should be watered more, while small seedlings in large pots should be watered less; flowers placed on a balcony should be watered more, while flowers kept indoors should be watered less. When the climate is hot, water more; when the climate is cool, water less; in dry weather, water more; on cloudy days, water less; on rainy days, do not water. When flowers are budding, water more; during full bloom, water less; clay pots and tile pots should be watered more, while porcelain pots, glazed pots, and plastic pots should be watered less. In short, generally, slightly less water in the pot is safer than too much water.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to watering flowers
2. Watering potted flowers in cultivationThere is a saying among flower growers: "Whether it lives or not depends on water; whether it grows or not depends on fertilizer." Watering is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. Many beginners are mostly confused about how much to water: "The book says not too much and not too little, so what counts as neither too much nor too little?" In fact, how much to water first depends on what kind of flower is being grown, whether it likes dry conditions, likes moisture, or is semi-drought-tolerant. Never treat all flowers the same: if you have 10 pots of flowers at home, do not water them all together and let them all dry together. Water is the source of plant life, but an overly moist soil environment will prevent the roots of some drought-loving flowers from breathing, and then they will rot and die; if the roots die, of course the flowers cannot survive either. Therefore, if you want to grow flowers well, the first step is to understand clearly each flower's water requirements. First you must keep it alive; only then can you talk about blooming.
Potted flowers are limited by specific environmental conditions, and watering is not only troublesome but also the key to success or failure. To water just right, you must first understand the natural water requirements of different varieties of flowers at each stage of growth and development; you must also consider whether the weather is cloudy or clear, the temperature and humidity levels, the type of flowerpot, the size of the plant, and the texture of the potting soil.
Watering potted flowers generally involves the following situations and methods:
(1)Watering: In spring, summer, and autumn, water before 10 a.m.; in winter, water at 2 p.m. Make sure the water temperature is close to the soil temperature, slightly higher in winter and slightly lower in summer. However, the temperature difference between water and soil should not exceed about 5°C. The amount of water should be such that the soil is uniformly moist from the surface to the bottom of the pot. Watering must avoid "cutting across the middle" (wet on top, dry below) and "puddling" (water accumulating at the bottom of the pot); also avoid soil and fertilizer being washed out through the drainage hole, which can create hollows in the center of the pot and seriously affect the growth and development of potted flowers. When watering, note that drought-loving flowers can have their water amount controlled, keeping the potting soil slightly moist, with the surface soil showing a whitish color but not completely dry. Moisture-loving flowers should be kept constantly moist, with no whitish color on the surface soil, but water must not accumulate and remain wet for long.
(2)Supplementary watering: In dry weather, between 15:00 and 16:00, check the dryness or wetness of the potting soil and supplement with an appropriate amount of water as needed, just enough to keep the potting soil moist. If the weather changes suddenly and special circumstances require water, watering is not limited by time or frequency.
(3)Generous watering: During the vigorous growth period of potted flowers, in order to promote shoot growth, plant development, flower forcing, and fruit strengthening, the amount of water can be increased together with topdressing, keeping the surface soil without a whitish color and the leaves without wilting.
(4)Restricted watering: During the dormant period or in low-temperature seasons, or to harden seedlings, promote bud formation, prevent excessive vegetative growth, and correct the phenomena of yellow leaves and bud drop caused by excessive water, the amount of water should be appropriately controlled, keeping the potting soil merely moist, combined with loosening the soil to conserve moisture.
(5)Misting: In dry spring and autumn seasons, in addition to normal watering and supplemental watering, water should be sprayed on the leaf surfaces and around the flower-growing area to increase environmental humidity, prevent young leaves from scorching and flowers from fading early, and keep the plants fresh; especially for southern flowers, even more attention should be paid to environmental moisture. In summer, after rain when the sky suddenly clears or on stuffy evenings, water should be sprayed to lower the temperature and prevent disease; whenever spraying water, the leaf surfaces should be sprayed clean to prevent residual water droplets and dust on the leaves from forming spots that are difficult to remove. Watering potted flowers is routine work; the above methods should be applied flexibly, step by step, and persistently.
1. Flowers in pots that should not be watered too much
All cacti and succulents are drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging, such as globe cactus, cactus, aloe, night-blooming cereus, kalanchoe, and so on; if the potting soil remains wet for a long time or is drenched by rain, leaf rot and root rot are most likely. For fleshy-rooted and bulbous types such as orchids, tree peonies, herbaceous peonies, clivia, dahlias, gloxinia, reineckea, cyclamen, and bird-of-paradise, dying from waterlogging is a major cause.
Some woody flowers are also very afraid of waterlogging, such as plum blossom, longevity peach, osmanthus, azalea, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Norfolk Island pine, Dracaena fragrans, variegated daphne, and begonia types, and so on. If they are waterlogged for 3-5 days, they will be at death's door and difficult to save.
Some moisture-loving flowers are also afraid of waterlogging, such as chrysanthemum, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, and asparagus fern; because the potting soil is too wet or has been rained on for a long time, the roots will suffocate and die. To prevent flowers and trees from suffering waterlogging damage, take the following measures:
(1) Ground-planted flowers and trees that fear waterlogging should be given a good site, and should be planted in high, dry places, never in low-lying land.
(2) For ground-planted flowers and trees at risk of waterlogging, drainage ditches should be dug before the rainy season arrives, and soil should be mounded up around the plant roots; for precious flowering trees, after mounding the soil, it is best to also surround them with plastic sheeting.
(3) During the plum rain period, potted flowers should be moved to a rain-sheltered place as early as possible. If the number of potted flowers is large and there is no time to move them, they should be laid on their sides on the spot to prevent water accumulation.
(4) For potted flowers and trees, enlarge the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot in advance, cover the hole with a piece of window screen, then add a layer of jujube-sized bricks, charcoal residue, or charcoal pieces so that excess water can drain away at any time. Before planting ground-grown flowers and trees that fear waterlogging, a deep planting pit should also be dug, with a relatively thick layer of gravel or charcoal residue spread at the bottom to facilitate drainage.
(5) When watering flowers and trees that fear waterlogging, be sure to grasp the principle of watering only when dry and watering thoroughly, and as much as possible use the method of more misting and less drenching. When watering, both "cutting across the middle" and water accumulation in the pot must be prevented.
(6) For flowers and trees that have already suffered waterlogging damage, promptly knock out the wet root ball, remove the wet mud, place the plant in a cool, ventilated place, appropriately spray water on the branches and leaves, and after the plant regains vigor, replace the soil and repot it.
(Note) Waterlogging-tolerant flowers and trees include: Caladium bicolor, umbrella plant, saxifrage, banyan tree, Rhapis excelsa, Cordyline fruticosa, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, calla lily, Billbergia, Tradescantia zebrina, Guangdong evergreen, and various ferns, and so on.
2. Points to note when watering potted plants in summer
Summer has high temperatures and strong light, which speeds up the transpiration of potted flowers and easily causes the potting soil to dry out. Therefore, watering potted flowers in summer is very important, and the following points should be noted specifically.
At noon in summer, the temperature of the potting soil is relatively high, and the roots absorb water relatively quickly. If cold water is poured at this time, the temperature of the potting soil will drop suddenly, affecting the normal function of the plant's root system. This makes it difficult for the roots to absorb water, disrupts the balance of the plant's water metabolism, causes the plant to wilt, and affects growth. Therefore, it is best to water potted flowers in summer in the morning or evening.
In summer, the respiration of potted flowers is vigorous, requiring good air permeability in the potting soil. Too much watering will cause poor aeration in the potting soil, affecting the normal physiological activity of the root system, and in severe cases can also lead to root rot. Therefore, generally do not water when the potting soil is not dry; when it is dry, water thoroughly, and never water only to the middle of the pot. In summer, potting soil often cracks due to excessive dryness, so watering cannot be done all at once. Otherwise the water will leak straight down through the soil cracks to the bottom of the pot, while most of the potting soil remains very dry, and the next day the plant will still wilt from lack of water. Generally, after the first watering, wait a moment, and after the soil cracks close, water once more. When a potted flower wilts, its cells shrink due to water loss, and immediate watering will cause the cell walls to quickly absorb water and expand outward. However, the cell protoplasm absorbs water more slowly and cannot enlarge correspondingly, so it is torn apart by the pulling force. The destruction of a large amount of cell protoplasm has a great impact on the plant, and can even cause its death. A more reasonable approach is: first move the wilted potted flower to a wind-sheltered, cool place, spray a small amount of water on the leaves and potting soil, and after the plant has somewhat recovered, water thoroughly.
3. What harm does insufficient watering do to flowers?
Because potted flowers have little soil and do not store much water, during the growing season they need frequent replenishment of water to ensure normal growth. If the water supply is insufficient, the leaves and petioles will shrink and droop, showing wilting. If flowers remain in this state of insufficient water and wilted leaves for a long time, the older leaves and the lower leaves of the plant will gradually turn yellow and dry up. If most herbaceous flowers remain in a drought state for a long time, the plants will be stunted, the leaves will lose their fresh green luster, and the entire plant may even die. Some flower growers, fearing excessive watering, give "half water" (half-way water) each time they water, that is, the amount of water applied only moistens the surface soil while the lower soil is dry. This watering method likewise affects the development of the flower's root system and also produces the above adverse phenomena, so watering should be "water when dry, and water thoroughly when you water."
4. Reasonable watering
Watering is a routine management task in the cultivation of foliage plants, and it is also an important link directly related to whether foliage plants grow well, so it cannot be done carelessly. Because different species of foliage plants and their different stages of growth and development have different water requirements, timely and appropriate watering and balanced water supply are the key to good watering. The following focuses on watering measures for annual and biennial herbaceous foliage plants.
a. Watering methods
(1)Surface irrigation: Watering with a rubber hose or plastic flexible hose. It is suitable for flower beds, flower borders, and foliage plants grown in ridge-planted fields.
(2)Watering with a watering can: This is a watering method specially used for potted foliage plants. Fitting the watering can with a matching fine-hole nozzle also makes it an ideal tool for watering propagation beds and seedling beds. This is because the water column it sprays is dispersed and fine, and will not scatter seeds or knock over seedlings.
(3)Drip irrigation: This is a relatively advanced irrigation method that slowly applies water to the soil in the plant root zone through drip irrigation facilities. It has many advantages, such as saving water, saving labor, providing balanced water supply, and not destroying soil structure, and is worth vigorously promoting and applying in production.
(4)Sub-irrigation: Place the flowerpot into a shallow trough or shallow basin filled with water, and let water seep into the potting soil through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. But note that the water outside the pot should only reach 1/2 to 1/3 of the pot body; once the surface layer of the potting soil is seen to be moist, take it out immediately. Do not soak it for a long time, in case the seeds float up and are exposed above the soil surface or the soil layer loosens and causes the seeds to sink and be buried too deep, affecting the seed germination rate. The sub-irrigation method is mainly used for watering pot-sown seedlings.
b. Watering time
In spring and autumn, water in the morning or afternoon. In summer, water in the cool morning and evening, while in winter, water around noon when the weather is warm. When choosing the watering time, try to make the water temperature close to the soil temperature, and the temperature difference should not exceed 5°C, to prevent sudden changes in soil temperature caused by watering from harming the root system and affecting its absorption function.
c. Amount of water
The frequency and amount of watering mainly depend on seasonal changes, weather conditions, and plant growth. In spring and autumn, plants grow rapidly and need a lot of water, but the temperature is not very high. Water loss through dispersal is relatively small, so watering should be appropriate, neither too much nor too little; generally watering once a day is enough. In summer, light is strong, temperatures are high, and water evaporation is great, so watering should be frequent, generally once each in the morning and evening. In winter, temperatures are low; for herbaceous foliage plants in the open field, growth slows and water demand decreases, so watering once every 2-3 days is acceptable. However, for greenhouse herbaceous foliage plants, this is precisely the peak growing season, so watering should be strengthened. When watering specifically, it is also necessary to adapt flexibly to daily weather conditions: if it is sunny or windy, water disperses and is lost quickly, so the amount of water should be increased; if it is cloudy, the amount of water should be reduced.
Before and after seed germination, watering should be moderate, following the principle of small amounts and frequent applications. Once the seedling growth stage begins, the amount of water should be moderately reduced, intentionally imposing water restriction (controlled watering) to harden the seedlings, which helps bud formation and prevents excessive vegetative growth. During the vigorous growth period of mature seedlings and the full flowering period, water should be applied sufficiently to meet the vigorous metabolism of the plant, but for those types prone to flower drop and fruit drop, the amount of water should be controlled and not too much. During the seed formation period, appropriately reducing watering is beneficial for seed maturation.
d. Experience in watering
Watering should be timely and appropriate. In addition to the above basic requirements for watering, people have also summed up a set of practical experience in long-term actual work. Usually, the methods of listening to the sound, looking at the color, and feeling the soil are used to judge whether watering is needed. Listening to the sound means lightly tapping the flowerpot with a finger; if it gives a dull, muddy sound, the soil is moist and does not need watering. Looking at the color means that when the potting soil appears grayish-white, the soil is already dry and needs watering. If the soil is dark in color, it means the soil is not dry and does not need watering. Feeling the soil means pinching the soil with your hand; if it forms a clump, the soil is moist and does not need watering; if it crumbles as soon as you pinch it and cannot form a clump, the soil is dry and needs watering.
In short, watering is a daily task in the cultivation of foliage plants. The principle must be not to water when wet, and to water thoroughly when dry, with the degree being that the surface and interior of the soil are uniformly dry or wet. Avoid wet on top and dry below (half-way water) or dry on top and wet below (water accumulating at the bottom).
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to watering flowers
(5) Differences in watering by season
1. How to water flowers in springWatering in spring is the key to growing potted flowers well. Because spring weather is relatively dry and air humidity is low, if the amount of water is too little, it will cause yellow leaves and leaf drop, affecting the growth and development of flowers; too much water will cause bud drop or root rot, and even death.
1. Judging in spring whether potted flowers need watering
If the color of the potting soil surface is brownish-red, and pressing the surface with a finger gives a soft, moist feeling, and tapping the pot wall with a finger produces a muddy, dull sound, then the potting soil is moist and does not need watering; if the color of the potting soil surface becomes lighter and whitish, and pressing the surface with a finger feels hard, and tapping the pot wall produces a crisp, loud sound, then the potting soil is on the dry side and needs watering.
2. Frequency, timing, and amount of watering potted flowers in spring
After the beginning of spring, temperatures begin to rise, flowers enter the growth period, and the amount of water should gradually increase. Generally, flowers should be watered once every 2-3 days, and later, as temperatures rise, gradually increase to once a day, and by the high-temperature stage in July, water twice a day. The watering time should preferably be between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
Different types of flowers have different habits, and their water requirements vary greatly. Moisture-loving flowers such as ferns, orchids, and begonias should be watered more; drought-loving flowers such as Crassulaceae, Cactaceae, and Agavaceae should be watered less; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much.
Different growth and development stages require different amounts of water. Flowers entering the growth period from dormancy should have their watering gradually increased; flowers in the vigorous growth period should be watered more; water should be restricted in the early stage of flower bud differentiation, the seedling hardening stage, and before repotting; water should be reduced in the early flowering stage and fruiting stage, and appropriately watered during full bloom; for newly potted or newly repotted flowers, the first watering must be thorough.
The nature of the growing medium differs, and water-holding capacity varies greatly, so the amount of water should also differ. Sandy, loose soil has poor water-holding capacity and should be watered more; heavy clay soil has strong water-holding capacity and should be watered less.
The amount of water also depends on the size and texture of the flowerpot. If the pot is small, the potting soil dries quickly, and the watering frequency should be increased; a large pot is the opposite. Clay pots are loose in texture and have good water permeability; the water lost through evaporation from the pot wall is even more than the water consumed by the flowers, so more watering is needed; ceramic pots, glazed pots, and purple clay pots are fine and dense in texture and have poor water permeability and air permeability, so they should be watered less; plastic pots are impermeable to water and air, so they should be watered even less.
3. Water quality for watering flowers in spring
Rainwater, pond water, and river water are most suitable. Generally, tap water can also be used for flowers, but it is best to store tap water for 1-2 days before use.
4. Watering methods in spring
Soaking method: Place the flowerpot into a basin of water and let water seep into the potting soil along the drainage hole at the bottom until the entire potting soil is soaked through. This method is mostly used for newly potted flowers and for watering when sowing seeds and raising seedlings in pots, in order to prevent external watering from washing away the potting soil or displacing the seeds and affecting seedling emergence.
Watering-can method: Use a watering can to pour water directly onto the pot surface. This method is commonly used for relatively large flowers and trees.
Sprinkling-can method: Use a watering can to sprinkle water on the plant's leaf surfaces and the pot surface. This method is commonly used for newly potted seedlings, cuttings, and foliage plants. But some flowers are especially sensitive to water, such as gloxinia, calceolaria, and begonia, whose leaf surfaces have relatively thick fuzz, so after misting, the water does not evaporate easily and the leaves rot easily; after the top of the cyclamen corm and the flower buds of African daisy are touched by water, they easily rot and wither, so misting should not be used. For flowers in full bloom, misting should also not be excessive; otherwise it easily causes petal mildew and rot or affects fertilization, reducing the seed-setting rate.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to watering flowers
2. How to water flowers in summerAfter the plum rain season, which has abundant rainfall and high humidity suitable for flower growth, summer begins immediately, and after a few days (July 13) the dog days begin, lasting a relatively long time and being extremely unfavorable for flower growth (40 days this year), which is a test for flower growers. This year's dog days are especially long; if flowers are not grown well, they will be listless or even die, and your good mood will be gone too. Especially for those grown outdoors in direct sunlight.
Once summer comes, your own care routine has not changed, but the flowers, especially the ones you particularly love and that have a story, why have their leaves turned yellow? Why do they look ugly? Why are they no longer plump? Why has the plant withered? In any case, it is as if they are sick, and you cannot figure it out no matter how hard you try, and you do not know what to do; with your own flower-growing experience, you already feel powerless.
Summer is the season when most potted flowers grow vigorously, and evaporation is high, so watering should be appropriately increased; indoor flowers should be watered once every 2-3 days, while outdoor ones should be watered once a day. The amount of water for different varieties of flowers should be treated differently. Generally, herbaceous flowers need more water than woody flowers and should be watered more. Sun-loving plants should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight and watered sufficiently, and water must not accumulate in the pot; semi-shade-loving plants, such as camellia and azalea, should be placed in a semi-shaded, semi-sunny, well-ventilated place; foliage plants should be shaded. For flowers entering a slow-growth or semi-dormant state, such as Christmas cactus and four-season begonia, the potting soil should be on the dry side, and flowering flowers should also be watered less to avoid knocking off flower buds. In the hot summer, do not fertilize or apply only a light dilute fertilizer solution.In fact, most of these problems are related to the time and method of watering. Because your watering time and method are wrong, you have harmed the photosynthesis function of the flower leaves.
In our Jiangnan region, the temperature is now around 37 degrees, with severe heat overhead, which is the greatest harm to tender, green flowers. Now every day is clear for thousands of miles, and the sun is fierce, which is a test for lush flowers. Below, based on my own limited experience, I will talk about the timing, methods, and transplanting of summer flower watering; as long as you do these things, flowers should have no problem getting through summer safely.
1. Summer watering timeChoose the period from morning to before 12:30 noon. According to my experience, watering during this period is no problem. Watering from 12:30 to 7 p.m. has a relatively large impact on flowers. From 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., if the water touches the flower leaves when watering, the harm to the leaves is greatest. Under the hot sun, leaf surfaces protect themselves; if they suddenly encounter cold water, and this happens often, the leaves will develop problems. I will not go into the reasoning. In any case, if you must water in the afternoon, absolutely do not let the water touch the leaf surfaces (especially when sunlight is still shining on the flowers). The reason afternoon watering is not good is that by the afternoon the soil in the flowerpot has already been heated by the sun, and watering can easily cause root mildew in some herbaceous plants. As for after what time around noon watering is not allowed, you can do your own experiment; here I am in the central Zhejiang basin, and watering before 1:30 p.m. is not much of a problem. When watering at noon, try to water later, because in the afternoon the sunlight is strong and flowers need more water and evaporate more; if supply and demand are unbalanced, by evening the flowers will have lost too much water and will be very hard to recover. The disadvantage of watering in the morning and evening is that the interval is too long, water supply and demand are unbalanced, and evening watering is unfavorable for flower recovery. The advantage of watering in the morning and at noon is that with morning watering, the flowers already have enough, and noon watering satisfies the flowers' needs for the afternoon's hot sun exposure and evaporation, which is very beneficial for protecting the flowers.
Some people, because of time reasons, work reasons, or business trips, come home in the afternoon and see that the flowers are severely short of water, feeling as if they have been sun-dried flat, with stems softened by the sun and leaves curled up. If you encounter this situation, the plant is severely short of water and is protecting itself; sudden watering is instead not good. Either move it to a cool place or increase the humidity of the flower-growing area. My suggestion is that I hope you water after 9 p.m., that is, after you feel that the flowerpot or the soil on the ground has completely cooled. After dark, misting the leaf surfaces should not be much of a problem. Also, when watering in the morning, if the sunlight is strong, after 9:30 try not to let the water touch the leaf surfaces either.
2. Summer flower watering methods
Whether you can grow flowers depends on whether you can water. New growers either often forget or are too diligent. In fact, flowers, like people, need to be thought about and cared for. No matter what kind of flower, water only after it has dried thoroughly, and when you water, water thoroughly. In summer, sunlight is strong and watering is frequent, so the soil in the flowerpot easily becomes compacted and very solid. If your watering motion is very quick, and many people use a hose to flush water to save effort, then in fact most of the flower roots are not reached by the water. In summer, watering should be slow and patient. Loosen the shallow soil often. When watering, water along the flowerpot; fast watering rushes over the soil surface, and you think the surface is wet and the flower has been watered thoroughly, but in fact it has not. If you go slowly, the water will slowly reach the flower roots. Pay special attention: after watering once, wait about ten minutes; when you see that the surface of the flowerpot is no longer glossy with water, water once more to supplement. This second watering is especially critical; this water is what truly enters the soil, while most of the first watering may have been lost. In other seasons, if the soil does not turn whitish, do not water. Succulent plants should also be watered less in summer, and even more, must not be watered in the afternoon. We know that a watermelon cut open in the afternoon is especially warm, and succulents are also hot inside like this; once you water, the pores on their surface close, and if this happens often, they will often be unable to breathe, staying warm inside, and it would be strange if they did not rot.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to watering flowers
3. How to water flowers in autumn
In autumn, for flowers in a dormant or semi-dormant state, it is still better to control watering and keep the potting soil often on the dry side. For shade-loving or semi-shade-loving flowers, as the weather turns cooler, the light duration should gradually be increased, and flowers that have already bloomed should be watered in time. Watering should preferably be 1-2 times a day; at 9-10 a.m., the amount of water should be sufficient (relatively less for shade plants), and in the evening, an appropriate amount of water should be given. If the weather is stuffy and dry, in the morning and evening you can mist the leaf surfaces, and at the same time water the ground around the flowers to moisten it.As autumn temperatures drop, daylight shortens, and the temperature difference increases, the growth of all kinds of plants undergoes great changes, and attention must be paid to their respective growth characteristics.
1. For flowers that generally bloom in autumn, winter, and early spring, normal watering can continue; for other flowers, watering can gradually be moderated, adopting the principle of not watering or watering less when the potting soil is not too dry.
2. For shade-loving flowers and indoor foliage plants, watering must not be too frequent or too much, to avoid root rot or the occurrence of diseases and pests.
3. For flowers that are relatively difficult to bloom, watering should be controlled, otherwise it will affect flower bud differentiation.
Flower watering knowledge and precautions - The complete guide to watering flowers
4. How to water flowers in winter
"The main reason household flowers have a hard time getting through winter is watering too frequently; winter flowers need more sun and less water." This is because winter temperatures are low, air humidity is high, and plant consumption is low. If watered often, the soil will accumulate more water, causing root rot; if flowers are placed outdoors, they may also be frostbitten or even frozen to death. The golden barrel cactus is a cactus plant and is itself a drought-tolerant plant, so it should be watered even less or not at all; other flowers should also be watered once every ten days to half a month, and the amount each time should not be much. In winter, flowers should often be allowed to bask in the sun; on clear, good-weather days, the flowerpots can be moved outside, and at night moved back indoors.As the weather gradually turns cold, most potted flowers are moved indoors for care. Winters in the north are long, cold, and dry, making plants especially prone to disease and damage. To help plants get through winter safely, in addition to ensuring sunlight and warmth, watering is also an item requiring special attention.
1. If the potting soil is not dry, do not water. Too much water will inevitably result in root rot.
2. In winter, the best time to water is at noon; do not suddenly remember in the evening and casually water.
3. The water used for watering flowers must not be taken directly from the tap and used immediately; it should be stored in a vat, exposed to the sun for one or two days, and then used. If the water temperature differs too much from room temperature, it will harm the roots.
(1) Precautions for watering potted flowers in winter
When potted flowers reach winter, most enter the dormant stage, growing slowly, with reduced metabolism and correspondingly reduced water requirements. If watering is not handled well, root frostbite will occur, leading to withering or even death of the upper part of the plant.
In winter, the best time to water is around midday when there is good sunlight (generally between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.), that is, water when the water temperature and air temperature are suitable. If cold damage is caused by water that is too cold, it is very difficult for the plant to recover. So in winter, watering must be timed properly and kept to a minimum. For potted flowers brought into a greenhouse, the amount of watering should be determined by the temperature in the greenhouse. In a low-temperature greenhouse, potted flowers should be watered once every 4-5 days; in a medium-temperature or high-temperature greenhouse, potted flowers are generally watered once every 1-2 days; in a spot with ample sunlight and higher temperatures, more water should be given.
Because greenhouses have heating equipment, the air tends to be dry, so for flowers that like high temperatures and humidity, besides watering, misting is also needed to increase the humidity in the air. If strong winds howl and cold air invades, flowers placed outdoors need to be kept warm and watered less.
(2) The "three don'ts" and "five dos" of watering flowers in winter
For home-grown flowers, whether they can bloom well and keep their leaves healthy in winter, and whether they can safely overwinter, watering is especially important.
I. The "three don'ts" of watering flowers in winter
1. Never water flowers directly with ice-cold water. Ice-cold water most easily damages flower roots; fleshy-rooted plants such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta) and orchids fear ice water the most. In winter, because the temperature is low, the water used for watering flowers should be stored in a container or left to stand, and never use tap water directly to water flowers, to prevent an excessive temperature difference from damaging the root system. Because as winter arrives the temperature keeps dropping, flower metabolism slows down or the plants enter dormancy, so generally all potted flowers should have watering strictly controlled. If the potting soil is not too dry, do not water; especially for shade-tolerant flowers, even more avoid root rot and leaf drop caused by overwatering.2. Avoid overwatering. In winter, the amount of water evaporation is small, and on top of that, flower plants stop growing under low temperatures, especially as root activity declines; too much water makes root respiration difficult and very easily causes root disease, or even root rot and death. Flowers that bloom in winter, such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), clivia (Clivia miniata), camellia (Camellia japonica) and cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), can be watered in moderation, and the amount should be small but frequent.
3. Avoid watering with fertilizer water. In winter, flowers generally do not need fertilizer water; flowers in full bloom only need a little dilute fertilizer water, and frequent application in small amounts is safe. Too heavy a fertilizer watering causes buds to drop and flowers to fade.
II. The "five dos" of watering flowers in winter
1. Water flowers with warm water or cool boiled water. In winter, when the weather is cold and the water is chilly, it is best to water flowers with warm water. Ice-cold water taken from outdoors should have some hot water added to it, until it feels slightly warm to the touch (around 35°C, not too hot), before being poured into the flowerpot; or place cool water indoors and wait until it is close to room temperature before watering. In winter, if cool boiled water is used to water flowers and trees, it can make their leaves lush and flowers bright, and can promote earlier blooming. Generally, the best time to water flowers and trees in winter is around midday.
2. Spray and wash the leaf surfaces. For some shade-loving, moisture-loving evergreen flowers, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, camellia and rohdea (Rohdea japonica) and similar plants, water close to room temperature should often be used to spray and wash the leaf surfaces, cleaning off dust, to help photosynthesis.
3. Watering flowers with leftover tea. Using leftover tea to water flowers can both maintain the moisture of the soil of home potted flowers and add nutrients such as nitrogen to the flowers and trees. But it should be done according to the moisture condition of the flowerpot, watered regularly and in proper amounts, and not simply poured on whenever tea is left over.
4. Watering flowers with rice-washing water. Often watering flowers such as Aglaia odorata with rice-washing water can make their branches and leaves lush and their flower color especially bright. However, using rice-washing water directly to water flowers is not good. Over time it causes the potting soil to compact, hindering the respiration of the plant roots, and watering too much can also burn the plant's root system. So if rice-washing water is to be used for watering flowers, it must first be decomposed and fermented. After fermentation, rice-washing water is weakly acidic and can neutralize the somewhat alkaline nature of tap water. Fermented rice-washing water, besides containing rich elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, also contains large amounts of trace elements such as iron, magnesium, copper, zinc and molybdenum; using it to water flowers and trees that like acidic soil (such as Aglaia odorata, rhododendron, jasmine, camellia, osmanthus and so on) can not only promote robust plant growth and lush branches and leaves, but also extend the flowering period and prevent chlorosis. At the same time, because rice-washing water contains more phosphorus (the main component of rice bran is phosphate fertilizer), it can promote the formation of flower buds, can promote flower bud differentiation, and make flowers and trees produce bright flowers, green leaves and abundant fruit.
5. Watering flowers with spoiled milk. After milk spoils, add water and use it to water flowers; it benefits the growth of the flowers. But more water should be added to make it fairly dilute. Unfermented milk must not be used to water flowers, because it produces a large amount of heat during fermentation, which will cause root rot.