How to care for an areca palm? Growing methods and points to note, temperature control is very important
Because the areca palm has so many benefits and uses, people often keep it at home or in the office, so how do you grow an areca palm so that it can do its job? Today the editor will share the areca palm's growing methods and points to note. How to grow an areca palm: botanists' research shows
Because the areca palm has so many benefits and uses, people often keep it at home or in the office, so how do you grow an areca palm so that it can do its job? Today the editor will share the areca palm's growing methods and points to note.
How to grow an areca palm
Botanists' research shows that the areca palm, as a tropical plant, likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment, and its cold tolerance is very average; it likes fertile soil; it has low light requirements; its water and fertilizer requirements are also average, making it one of the easier plants to keep alive.
The areca palm's growing methods and points to note
1. The areca palm's growing environment
1. Temperature
The temperature needed for vigorous growth is 25-35 degrees. It is a plant with weak cold tolerance. When the temperature is below 20 degrees the leaves may turn yellow, and at 5 degrees frost damage may occur, so you must pay attention to temperature changes during cultivation.
Points to note: In winter, keep the ambient temperature around the areca palm above 10 degrees and keep its leaves clean. When the temperature starts to drop in late October, you can move it back to a warmer place for care.
2. Light
The areca palm likes a semi-shaded environment, and it likes an environment with plenty of light, so it should be placed in a bright spot with strong light for growing, to avoid too dim light affecting its growth or even causing the leaves to turn yellow and dry up.
Points to note: The areca palm can survive in a dark environment for 4-6 weeks, but in such an environment its growth will be very slow, so try to avoid this situation; only suitable light can keep the leaves emerald green.
3. Soil
Although the areca palm does not have high requirements for soil, acidic soil is good for its growth. If you are in the north, you can choose sandy loam with high humus content; in the south, you can use a mix of leaf mold, peat soil and river sand, and you can also mix in a small amount of base fertilizer.
Points to note: Because the tiller buds grow relatively close to the rhizome, when potting you should plant the roots deeper so that the new buds can take root better. This is where the areca palm's growing methods and points to note differ from those of other plants.
2. How to grow an areca palm
1. Watering
Be careful to keep the soil moist, and adjust the frequency and amount of watering according to climate changes. For example, control watering during cold, rainy weather; when the climate is dry and hot, water more, and in summer you can also spray the plant to maintain higher humidity.
Points to note: Because water in the north tends to be alkaline, after watering you can regularly use black alum to adjust the soil's acidity. In addition, no matter when you water, you need to avoid letting water accumulate in the pot, otherwise root rot will occur.
2. Fertilizing
During the areca palm's vigorous growth period, sufficient fertilizer should be provided. Generally, from May to October, fertilize once every 7-15 days, mainly with liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer. In addition, organic fertilizer can be added when potting, while in autumn and winter you can reduce or stop fertilizing.
Points to note: In summer, appropriately apply additional nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer; in winter, you can apply sesame paste residue, etc. After fertilizing, be careful to keep the potting soil moist, to avoid the fertilizer being unable to be absorbed because the soil suddenly becomes too dry and hard.
3. Pruning
The areca palm is a relatively fast-growing plant. If its plant shape is not controlled, it can grow to 2-5 meters tall, so to make it more attractive, you should pay attention to pruning regularly. This is a very important point in the areca palm's growing methods and points to note.
Points to note: In winter the plant enters a semi-dormant state, and at this time you can cut off the withered, yellow, dense and overly tall branches and leaves. When spring comes and growth resumes, this will help new branches and leaves grow quickly.
How to grow an areca palm outdoors
If you grow the areca palm outdoors, besides the above points to note, the key is keeping it warm in winter. You can cover the outside of the plant with a plastic bag to avoid frost damage from temperatures that are too low; otherwise, the other aspects are much the same as indoors.
Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures
Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures, part oneRubber Tree[Aliases] Large-leaf green, red Burma tree, red-mouth rubber tree, Indian rubber fig
[Family and genus] Moraceae, Ficus
[Place of origin] China
[Morphological characteristics] Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 meters. Stem hairless, with milky sap. Leaves thick, leathery, with long petioles; leaves are oblong or elliptical
[Growing medium] Sandy loam rich in humus is preferable
[Watering] Simply keep the soil on the dry side or slightly moist at all times. Summer is the stage when the rubber tree needs the most water, so you can water more. Winter is the period when the rubber tree needs the least water, so supply less water
[Fertilizing] During the vigorous growth season, diammonium phosphate, monopotassium phosphate, etc. should be used as top dressing
[Light] The rubber tree likes strong direct sunlight and also tolerates shaded environments. However, during cultivation it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight each day. If conditions allow, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full sun
[Ventilation] Just keep the environment appropriately ventilated
[Temperature] The rubber tree likes high-temperature environments, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The ambient temperature should be kept between 20-30 degrees. When the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees, the rubber tree is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees
[Disease control] The rubber tree is prone to anthracnose, whose pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or elliptical gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins, and in severe cases the spots join together and spread to the whole leaf. Control methods are to avoid mechanical damage to the plant and reduce opportunities for the pathogen to infect the plant; promptly remove diseased leaves to prevent spread; prune reasonably to keep the tree in a natural open-center form, achieving light penetration and ventilation.Asparagus Fern
Aliases of asparagus fern are cloud-leaf bamboo and mountain grass; Liliaceae, Asparagus genus.
Origin and habits: Asparagus fern is native to South Africa. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded conditions, and does not tolerate drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus and with good drainage.
Morphological characteristics: Asparagus fern is a perennial herbaceous plant with smooth, soft, slender stems that are climbing in form. The leaves are fine, spread horizontally, and small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves are reduced to scales or spines. Flowers are small, bisexual, white. Berries are spherical, purple-black. The flowering period is mostly February-March or June-July, and some bloom twice.
Propagation techniques: Asparagus fern is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Sowing is done in March-April, and the seeds are soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow in spots in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, keep the temperature at 20-25°C and the potting soil moist, and germination can occur in 20-30 days. When the seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted out in a greenhouse or potted. Large 4-5 year old plants can be propagated by division in spring.
Management techniques: Asparagus fern is a shade-loving plant and should not be placed in a place with too strong light, otherwise the branches and leaves are prone to withering and yellowing. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the potting soil alternating between moist and dry; generally watering just to moisten the surface soil is enough. In dry seasons, spray clean water on the leaves more often. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer; apply a fully decomposed, dilute liquid fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and potassium once every 10-15 days, or water it with diluted leftover milk. Asparagus fern grows fast, so weak, overly dense, old branches and withered stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which helps ventilation and maintains a low, compact form. Asparagus fern can also be grown in bamboo tubes, whose water permeability and water retention are both good, so there is no need to drill holes in the bottom.
Ornamental value: Asparagus fern is mainly grown in pots for its foliage; it is fresh and elegantly understated, and placed in a study it gives an even stronger scholarly atmosphere. The roots, stems and leaves of asparagus fern can all be used as medicine, and can be collected all year round. Its branches and leaves are fine, upright and elegant, with an arrangement of dense and sparse emerald green, and a free and easy posture, making it a good accompanying material for cut flowers, bouquets and flower baskets.Areca Palm
Family and genus: Arecaceae, Dypsis, evergreen shrub.
Origin and habits: Native to the island of Madagascar in Africa; it is mostly grown in pots in various parts of China. The areca palm likes a warm and humid environment, and likes light while also being fairly shade-tolerant. It grows slowly in height but its crown develops quickly, and it self-prunes well. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam, and dislikes alkaline soil.
Morphological characteristics: Plant height 3-4 meters. The stem branches from the ground and has ring patterns; the leaves spread in an arch shape and can reach 2 meters long, the petiole is smooth and yellow, and the pinnae are lanceolate, 60 cm long, soft at the tip, with 3 raised main veins on the underside; flowers are small, in clusters, golden yellow, flowering period March-April.
Propagation techniques: The areca palm can be propagated by sowing or division. Potted plants generally use division propagation. Division propagation can be done in all four seasons, but autumn is best. From a robust mother plant, choose well-developed shoots, cut them away from the mother plant at the root, and transplant them into a new pot to re-establish. Newly established plants, because their root systems have not yet developed well, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately, spray water on the leaves several times a day, and keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at around 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.
Management techniques: Indoor potted areca palms should use slightly acidic soil; in the north, be careful to choose sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of “dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly” according to the season; water appropriately more in dry, hot seasons, and control watering during cold, rainy weather. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, be careful to regularly use black alum to adjust the soil's acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons; in summer appropriately apply additional nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer, and in winter you can apply organic flower fertilizers such as sesame paste residue. Regularly rotate the pot, often prune the lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, the indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C. When it is below 5 degrees for a long time, it will suffer frost damage.
Ornamental value: The areca palm is tall, with drooping emerald-green leaves and a free and easy posture, evergreen all year round. Potted plants arranged in meeting rooms, halls and parlors look especially majestic and display a tropical scene. In South China this species is a good material for park and courtyard landscaping. In places such as Hong Kong, China and Macao, China, because its leaves grow radially in all directions, it is also regarded as a symbol of a career “flourishing in all directions.” It is highly favored.Alocasia (Drip Guanyin)
Drip Guanyin is a trade name; when the soil water content is high, water drips down from the leaf tips or leaf edges, so many places call it Drip Guanyin. This plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the family Araceae, genus Alocasia - Alocasia macrorrhizos. It is native to the subtropics, likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, and is not cold-tolerant. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin in China it is grown in pots, and moved indoors before winter. Alocasia does not have high soil requirements, but grows best in well-drained sandy loam or humus loam containing organic matter. Generally the potting soil uses a mix of leaf mold, peat soil and coarse sand in a 2:2:1 ratio. During the growing season keep the potting soil moist, and apply a dilute N, P, K liquid fertilizer mainly of N once or twice a month. In summer place it in a semi-shaded, ventilated spot, and frequently spray water around it and on the leaves to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature and keep the leaves clean. In winter stop fertilizing and control the frequency of watering. Alocasia grows very fast, so during its growth the fertilizer and water must be appropriate, to avoid the lower part of the stem becoming bare and bald, which would affect its ornamental value.Malabar Chestnut (Money Tree)
[Aliases] Money tree, Chinese-American kapok, chestnut tree, American peanut
[Family and genus] Malvaceae, Pachira
[Place of origin] From Mexico to Costa Rica in Central America
[Soil] Well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is best
[Light] The money tree is not strict about light and can adapt fairly well both in bright and dim indoor conditions. However, full sun can make the leaf nodes shorter and the plant shape compact and full. Insufficient light makes the cultivated tree grow more slowly. Do not suddenly move the plant from shade to strong light, otherwise the leaves will be scorched and the edges burned, affecting its appearance
[Temperature] The money tree likes a warm and humid climate; generally 15-30 degrees is most suitable during the growing stage. In winter it should be brought indoors to overwinter, and it is best if the room temperature is not lower than 5 degrees
[Watering] The money tree should generally be kept normally moist; remember it should not be too wet, to avoid root rot. In summer, water an indoor money tree once every 3-5 days; in spring and autumn, water once every 5-8 days; in winter, watering should be restrained, and keeping the potting soil slightly moist is enough
[Fertilizing] Normally apply organic liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 months. You can also apply a multi-element compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content, to promote thickening of the stem base and improve ornamental value. The high-temperature, high-humidity season in summer is very favorable for the money tree's growth, so at this stage fertilizer and water management should be strengthened
[Economic value] The money tree has a graceful plant shape, bright green leaves, and a spindle-shaped trunk; it can be braided into many shapes and made into uniquely styled bonsai of various postures. Because its seeds contain oil, it was once widely promoted in tropical regions as an oil-bearing woody plantParlor Palm
[Aliases] Dwarf palm, dwarf coconut, parlor palm, miniature palm
[Family and genus] Arecoideae, Chamaedorea
[Place of origin] Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature, high humidity and semi-shaded environments, does not tolerate strong light, and its cold tolerance is not strong
[Soil] Requires well-drained, fertile, moist soil. Repot once every 2 years in spring; when repotting, because the roots are very fine, avoid damaging too many roots, which would affect its recovery and growth
[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees; at 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the overwintering temperature is 10 degrees. It fears direct sunlight and does not tolerate drought. Under strong sun its leaf color will fade or turn yellow, and in severe cases sunburn occurs, producing scorched leaves and black spots and losing ornamental value
[Fertilizing and watering] This species' growing period is from March to September; water promptly to keep the potting soil moist, but watering should follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In summer and autumn, when the air is dry and hot, the leaves also need to be sprayed with water frequently to increase air humidity. During dormancy, water less and keep the pot surface slightly dry. During the growing season, fertilize once or twice a month, and stop fertilizing at the end of September
[Economic value] This species has a small and exquisite plant shape, an elegant and refined form, emerald green and glossy leaves, strong shade tolerance, and a rich tropical flavorKing Palm
[Family and genus] Arecoideae, Ravenea
[Place of origin] Eastern Madagascar
[Growth habits] Grows in swampy areas and along riverbanks with ample rain and sunlight. It likes environments with ample light and ample water, and is also fairly cold-tolerant and shade-tolerant
[Soil] It is not strict about soil, but loose, fertile and well-drained soil is more favorable for its growth
[Temperature] It grows rapidly when sunlight and water are ample, and the suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees. When potted, in cold regions it can be brought indoors to overwinter
[Fertilizing] It likes magnesium fertilizer; top-dress once a month to keep the leaves emerald green. When magnesium is deficient, the leaves turn yellow
[Economic value] This species has a thick trunk, a graceful and light plant form, and is emerald green and beautiful, with pinnate compound leaves resembling feathers. At the same time, because it adapts to a wide range of areas and grows well, it is an increasingly popular landscaping tree species. Potted plants used for indoor display have a very tropical feelUmbrella Tree
[Aliases] Duck-foot wood, hand tree
[Family and genus] Araliaceae, Schefflera
[Place of origin] New Hebrides Islands in the South Pacific
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity
[Soil] Well-drained loam or sandy loam is best as the growing medium
[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is about 20-28 degrees. The temperature should generally not be lower than 12 degrees, nor higher than 30 degrees. If the winter temperature is too low, it will shed leaves and lose ornamental value. When the temperature drops to 5 degrees, keep it warm. In summer, avoid strong direct sunlight all day. It should be placed in a bright indoor spot, but not exposed to direct sunlight. In a dark spot, the yellow-white patches of variegated varieties will gradually disappear. After direct exposure to strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off. When growing on a balcony, shade it in spring and summer, and give it light in autumn and winter
[Watering and fertilizing] In spring and autumn the potting soil should alternate between dry and wet; in summer mainly wet, in winter mainly dry. It is not selective about water quality. The growing period is mainly April-October; fertilize once every half month
[Economic value] The umbrella tree's leaves are oily green, palmately compound, leathery and glossy; variegated varieties are yellow and green interlaced, making it an ideal indoor ornamental plant. The umbrella tree tolerates pruning and has strong sprouting ability; the plant has a graceful posture, and especially when used to beautify a room it can rival high-grade flower species. Umbrella tree flowers are a winter nectar source, and the root bark and leaves can also be used medicinallyDwarf Fishtail Palm
[Aliases] Clustering fishtail palm, wine coconut
[Family and genus] Arecaceae, Caryota
[Place of origin] Guangdong, Guangxi and Hainan in China, Indochina, India
[Growth habits] A semi-heliophilous tree species; it grows poorly under strong sunlight. It likes warm, highly humid and well-ventilated environments, and has fairly strong cold tolerance, making it one of the more cold-tolerant palm plants
[Soil] It has strong growth vigor and a developed root system, and is not strict about soil conditions. When potting, you can use equal parts garden soil and humus soil as the medium. Generally repot once every 1-2 years; when repotting, remove part of the old soil, cut off some old roots, replant with new soil, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer
[Temperature] The suitable growth temperature is 18-30 degrees, and the overwintering temperature is 3 degrees. It can endure short periods of -1 to -2 degrees, and long-term exposure below this temperature will cause frost damage
[Light] It is a light-loving plant and needs ample sunlight during the growing period. It has fairly strong adaptability to light, and is also suitable for cultivation and appreciation in brighter indoor spots
[Watering] The roots are semi-succulent and have fairly strong drought resistance. During the growing period from March to October, water once a day; in other seasons, when watering, aim for moderate moisture, and never let water accumulate in the potting soil, to avoid root rot. During dormancy, simply keep the potting soil moist; under dry climate conditions, spray water on the leaves to keep them deep green and glossy
[Fertilizing] During the growing period, generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer once or twice a month to promote vigorous growth of the plant
[Economic value] This species grows in clusters, with very vigorous growth, a graceful and varied plant shape, lush branches and leaves, a full tree form with a rich sense of layers, peculiar leaf shapes and deep green leaf color, making it an excellent indoor greenery decoration plant. It is often grown in medium to large pots and placed in lobbies, entrance halls, meeting rooms and other places, where it looks extraordinarily impressive. The pith of the stem contains starch, which can be made into “sago” for eating. The sap of the inflorescence can be used to make sugar and brew wineGolden Pothos
Golden pothos is also called stone citrus. Araceae, a large evergreen climbing vine. Native to the Solomon Islands; in tropical regions it often climbs and grows on rocks and tree trunks in fish forests, and can grow into a huge vine. The green leaves have yellow patches.
Golden pothos is one of the very best indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and beautiful, just like emerald reliefs. The bright-colored green decoration is full of vitality and adds a warm touch of interest to a room.
It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying a room; displayed indoors, it can make the room full of life.
Temperature: Likes a warm environment; the minimum overwintering temperature is 10-13°C; for variegated pothos 16°C.
Light: Likes a semi-shaded environment; it can grow well in a relatively bright room; excellent variegated varieties easily die under weak light conditions.
Water: In spring, summer and autumn the potting soil should have sufficient water; water when the top 1-2 cm of potting soil becomes dry; in winter when the temperature is low, reduce watering.
Air humidity: Likes high temperature and high humidity; the plant should be sprayed with water regularly.
Repotting: Repot in spring as needed.
Propagation: Cuttings from branches root easily in spring and summer; for making a totem pole, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that it takes shape relatively quickly.Brazilian Ironwood
The scientific name of Brazilian ironwood is Dracaena fragrans; aliases are Brazilian iron tree, Brazilian millennium wood, golden-edged fragrant dracaena; it is a plant of the Liliaceae family, Dracaena genus.
Origin and habits: Brazilian ironwood is native to tropical regions. It likes environments with ample light, high temperature and high humidity, and also tolerates shade and dryness. In bright scattered light and the relatively dry environment of northern rooms, it also grows well.
Morphological characteristics: Brazilian ironwood is an evergreen tree with a neat plant shape and an upright stem. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40-90 cm long and 6-10 cm wide, with slightly blunt tips, curved into a bow shape, and with bright yellow or milky white stripes; the leaf edges are bright green, with wavy undulations, and glossy. Flowers are small. Yellow-green, fragrant.
Propagation techniques: Brazilian ironwood is propagated by cuttings. Use branches pruned from plants with poorer shape as cutting material, cut them into 5-10 cm sections, and insert them upright or flat on a cutting bed using coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be grown in water to encourage rooting. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water; the cut surface should be smooth, and the upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end is immersed 2-3 cm into the water, the temperature is above 25°C, and the water and container should be kept clean. Tips with leaves root relatively quickly, and can root and be potted in 3-4 weeks; stem sections root more slowly, and sometimes need 2-3 months to grow new roots and new shoots.
Management techniques: As long as temperature and other conditions are suitable, the Brazilwood can grow all year round. During high summer temperatures, it needs appropriate shading, and in winter the room temperature must not drop below 5°C. But it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13°C; if the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear on the leaf tips and margins. When placing a Brazilwood indoors, it should be in a spot with ample light. If the light is too weak, the markings on the leaves will turn green, the basal leaves will yellow, and it will lose its ornamental value. During the cultivation period, keep the water clean, watering 1-2 times a week; do not overwater, to prevent the trunk from rotting. During high summer temperatures, you can use misting to raise air humidity and spray water on the leaves to keep them moist.
During the growing season, the Brazilwood should be given appropriate foliar fertilization, spraying the leaves with nutrient solution diluted 100 times, once every half month. After several years of cultivation, when the plant becomes too tall or the lower leaves on the stem drop off and the plant shape deteriorates, it should be pruned. Repot or change the soil every year in early spring. If the environment is unsuitable for a potted Brazilwood, it may be harmed by red spider mites, thrips, scale insects, and others. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering, and excessive fertilization can all cause the leaf tips to scorch.
Ornamental value: The Brazilwood is a fairly popular large indoor potted foliage plant, especially when placed in a relatively spacious living room, study, or sitting room, where it lends an elegant, simple style with a tropical flavor. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful, neat plant shape.Peacock Calathea
Also known as mosaic calathea, it is a foliage plant of the genus Calathea in the family Marantaceae. It has tubers at the base, grows 20-30 cm tall, with oblong leaves; the leaf surface is green-white, with relatively brown markings along the edges of the midrib, and the leaves are evergreen year-round, with a unique metallic luster; the brown patches resemble a peacock with its tail fanned out, with fresh, gorgeous, and soft colors, making it a common indoor foliage plant. Many plants in this genus have relatively high ornamental value and are important plants used to decorate indoor environments around the world. Common varieties include:
(1) Calathea bella. Also known as mosaic arrowroot, with oblong leaves, large and thin; the leaf surface is green like velvet, with zebra-stripe-like feathery bands on both sides of the midrib, and the leaf underside is purplish-red.
(2) Red-backed arrowroot. Leaves are broadly elliptical, green on the surface with indistinct markings, and purplish-red on the underside.
(3) Mosaic arrowroot. Also called arrow-feather calathea, with a green leaf surface, pale yellow feathery stripes on both sides of the midrib, a deep purple leaf underside, and pale yellow flowers.
(4) White-spotted calathea. Grows 50-60 cm tall, with weak stems; leaves are large and thin, ovate-lanceolate, with irregular white patches on the green leaves.
(5) Double-line calathea. Also called red-feather calathea, with oblong leaves, a pale green surface, and white or peach-pink parallel double-line stripes on both sides of the midrib, very beautiful.
Peacock Calathea is native to the Americas. It likes semi-shade and a hot, humid environment, is not cold-tolerant, and its optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C; above 35°C or below 7°C, growth is poor. The overwintering temperature must not be too low, otherwise the leaves tend to curl. It requires loose soil rich in humus and with good drainage.
Calathea plants are mainly propagated by division, mostly done in spring in April-May when repotting. Division should not be done too early, otherwise the low temperature can easily damage the roots and affect survival and growth. When dividing, separate into 2-3 clumps per plant; too few will affect growth. After planting, water thoroughly once and place in a semi-shaded spot for care. Before new roots emerge, control watering and do not let the soil get too wet.
The potting soil can be mixed from 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, with a small amount of bean cake added as base fertilizer. When potting, first place a 3 cm layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.
From May to September, shade the plant during growth or place it in semi-shade, maintaining a light transmission rate of 40%-60%, and avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched or the margins become scorched and curled. If kept indoors for a long time with low temperature and insufficient light, growth will also weaken and the leaves will lose their unique luster. In winter, it can receive direct sunlight through glass.
Calathea has relatively high humidity requirements. During routine care, you can place the flower pot on an upside-down flower pot and frequently spray water on the leaves and surrounding environment, keeping the surroundings and ground moist, to achieve the goal of increasing environmental humidity. Water when the potting soil is not completely dry, otherwise the leaves easily curl and scorch at the edges due to dryness. During the peak growing season, apply a dilute bean-cake fertilizer or slow-release chemical fertilizer once a week; do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer. During high summer temperatures, apply a thin fertilizer once every half month; stop fertilizing when the temperature is below 15°C. During the care period, maintain good ventilation conditions, otherwise scale insects easily occur, affecting stem and leaf growth and reducing ornamental value.
Peacock Calathea is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Its leaf surface has feathery markings alternating dark green with white or pale yellow, and it has a unique metallic luster, resembling a peacock's tail feathers, hence the name. Peacock Calathea is small and graceful in shape, with fresh and gorgeous leaf colors, making it outstanding among foliage plants. For potting, choose a culture soil mixed evenly from leaf mold, garden soil, and a small amount of river sand. During the growing period, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks. When fertilizing, be careful not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer; generally the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is 2:1:1, which can make the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Soilless cultivation can also be used, applying nutrient solution 1-2 times a month during the growing period. Water to keep the potting soil moist. Peacock Calathea likes humid air, so pay attention to using methods such as spraying and sprinkling water to increase air humidity, especially in summer, where more attention should be paid to increasing humidity and lowering temperature to facilitate growth. For home cultivation, it can be placed in a bright indoor spot, and strong direct light must be avoided, otherwise it easily causes scorched leaf margins. If kept for a long time in a dimly lit place, the leaves will lose their unique luster. In winter, place it in a well-lit spot, and also pay attention to cold protection; room temperature should be kept above 13°C, stop fertilizing, and control watering. In northern winters, indoor air is dry, so besides spraying and washing the leaf surface once every 3-5 days with cool boiled water, it is best to cover it with a plastic film cover at night to keep it warm and moist. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to raise indoor humidity. To maintain its gorgeous leaf color, also frequently gently wipe the leaves with clean water. Peacock Calathea is mostly propagated by division. When dividing, it is best to plant 3-5 plants per pot.
Image:Image:Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum kochii)
Also known as white palm, spathe lily, Spathiphyllum kochii, and silver spathe lily. Family Araceae, genus Spathiphyllum. Native to tropical regions of the Americas.
Morphological characteristics: Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Grows 30-40 cm tall. Leaves basal, leathery, oblong or broadly lanceolate, with long pointed tips, and dark green leaf color. Leaves 20-30 cm long, about 10 cm wide, petioles about 30 cm long, with obvious veins. Because the spathe curls into a spoon shape and is white as a snow lotus, shaped like pressed-together palms, it is called white palm; because its pure white spathe resembles a white boat raising its sail on green water, it carries the blessing meaning of smooth sailing in social interactions, to encourage progress in life and career success.
The peace lily is very similar to the white Anthurium, also having white spathes, but the leaves and the flower's spathe differ somewhat. The peace lily's spathe does not turn outward but curls inward, and the oval spathe is not as bright and leathery as that of the white Anthurium.
Cultivated hybrids in the same genus include: Perfume white palm: its flowers have a faint fragrance. Green Giant white palm: also called Green Giant, the plant is taller than the peace lily, the leaves are larger than those of the peace lily, and the parallel feathery lateral veins are more obvious, thus appearing more vigorous and lively; it is a trendy indoor potted plant.
Habits: Likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment; absolutely avoid direct sunlight; fears cold. Avoids heavy clay soil; prefers sandy loam rich in humus.
Cultivation management: The peace lily is relatively shade-tolerant; as long as there is about 60% scattered light, it can meet its growth needs, so it can be grown year-round indoors in a spot with bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded out; avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases sunscald will occur. In northern winters, greenhouse cultivation can use no shading or little shading. If the light is too dim for a long time, it is not easy to bloom. The peace lily is a high-temperature-loving species and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. In winter, the nighttime minimum temperature should be 14-16°C, and daytime should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperature easily causes leaf drop or scorched-yellow conditions.
During the growing period, keep the potting soil moist frequently, but avoid overwatering and long-term soggy potting soil, otherwise root rot and plant yellowing and withering easily occur. In summer and dry seasons, frequently spray water onto the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle sprayer, and sprinkle water on the ground around the plant, to keep the air humid, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow, and drop. In winter, control watering, keeping the potting soil slightly moist.
During the peak growing season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed bean-cake fertilizer water once every 1-2 weeks, which is beneficial both for robust plant growth and for continuous blooming. In northern winters, when the temperature is low, stop fertilizing.
The potting soil can be evenly mixed from leaf mold or peat soil plus about 1/4 river sand or perlite, with a small amount of bone meal or cake residue added as base fertilizer. The potting soil should be loose and have good drainage and air permeability. Generally, repot once each year in early spring before large numbers of new shoots sprout; when repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil, and plant in a pot one size larger, to facilitate root development and robust growth.
Propagation: Can be propagated by division and sowing, and can also be mass-propagated by tissue culture.
1. Division propagation: Because the peace lily readily produces suckers, this method is mostly used. A vigorously growing plant can be divided about once every 2 years. Before new shoots emerge in early spring, tip the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut apart the rhizome at the base of the clump. Each small clump should preferably have more than 3 stems and buds, and should carry as many roots as possible, to facilitate the new plant quickly producing new leaves and having a full plant shape.
2. Seed propagation: This method of propagation is also not difficult. Seeds can be obtained by artificial pollination in a greenhouse. After the seeds mature, sow them as soon as they are harvested; the sowing temperature should be around 25°C, as low temperatures easily cause the seeds to rot.
Pests and diseases: Excessive fertilizer and frost damage easily cause yellow leaf tips. At this time, the soil should be changed immediately.Image:Marianne Dieffenbachia
Dieffenbachia is also called mosaic dieffenbachia and silver-spotted dieffenbachia. Native to tropical America, the plant grows 30-90 cm tall, with upright flowers, short internodes, oblong leaves, slightly wavy margins, and leaf surfaces spread with various milky white or creamy yellow markings or spots. It is shade-tolerant, and the leaf color is gracefully green. Main cultivated varieties include Marianne, KIKI, Golden Sun, White Jade, Duozi Zebra, Golden Treasure, and Temptation Dieffenbachia.
The optimum growth temperature for Dieffenbachia is 25-30°C, with daytime temperature at 30°C and nighttime temperature at 25°C. The possible growth range is 18-30°C from February to September, and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the leaves are prone to cold damage.
Dieffenbachia likes an environmental humidity of 80%. The soil should be watered when it dries to 2 cm on the surface. During the growing period, water fully and spray water on the leaf surface. If not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses its luster. Soil moisture is best kept alternating dry and wet; in summer, water more, and in winter, control watering.
Dieffenbachia is shade-tolerant and afraid of sun. If the light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, the leaf margins and leaf tips easily scorch, and even large areas may be burned. If the light is too weak, the yellow-white patches will turn green. It grows best under bright scattered light, and the leaf color is more vivid and beautiful.
The soil should preferably be fertile, loose, and well-drained loam. The potting soil should be a mixed soil of leaf mold and coarse sand.
[Propagation methods] Commonly used methods are cuttings, sowing, and tissue culture propagation.
Cutting propagation: Cuttings are best taken during the high-temperature period from July to August. Cut 7-10 cm from the top of the stem, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, insert into a sand bed or wrap the cut end with sphagnum moss, maintain relatively high air humidity, and keep room temperature at 24-30°C. Roots form 15-25 days after insertion. After new shoots sprout on the stem segment, transplant into pots.
Seed propagation: Dieffenbachia must undergo artificial pollination to set fruit. After the seeds mature, they should be sown immediately, and the seeds need to be cleaned thoroughly to avoid mildew and rot. Before sowing, the potting soil should be sterilized. After sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil, maintain room temperature at 24-29°C, and germination occurs 7-14 days after sowing. Transplant when the seedlings are 3 cm tall.
Tissue culture propagation: At present, lateral buds and apical buds have been used as explants. After routine disinfection, they are inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 3 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 2 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid. After 45 days, when adventitious buds grow to 2 cm, they are transferred to 1/2 MS medium supplemented with 2 mg/L indoleacetic acid, and roots can form in about 20-25 days, forming complete small plantlets.
[Cultivation management] Dieffenbachia pots are commonly 15-20 cm. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 high-potassium nitrate fertilizer for all seasons. When room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing. If the winter temperature is below 10°C and watering is excessive, leaf drop and stem tip rot will occur. If the plant only drops leaves but the stem does not rot, then after the temperature rises again, it can still continue to sprout and unfold leaves. After potted plants grow for 1-2 years, there are more basal suckers, and division propagation can be carried out along with repotting. If the plant grows too tall, you can cut off the aboveground part while leaving 2-3 nodes at the base; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a better plant shape.
[Pest and disease control] The main problems are bacterial leaf spot, brown spot, and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, they can be prevented and controlled by spraying with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution.
[Post-production handling] Dieffenbachia has large leaves with beautiful colored markings, suitable for potted ornamentation, embellishing living rooms and studies, very comfortable and elegant. When used to decorate public places with relatively low light, Dieffenbachia still grows normally, with lush green leaves and flourishing branches, full of vitality, and is especially suitable for placement in modern buildings. Dieffenbachia can tolerate 14 days in darkness, and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.
Image:Beautiful Phoenix Palm
The Beautiful Phoenix Palm, also called soft-leaved date palm, is a foliage plant of the genus Phoenix in the family Arecaceae.
The Beautiful Phoenix Palm is an evergreen shrub, with a short, thick stem, usually solitary, sometimes clustered, growing 1-3 m tall. Leaves are pinnate, upright when first formed, slightly curved and drooping after growing a little; there are long spines on both sides of the leaf stalk base, with triangular protrusions, which is one of its characteristics; leaflets are lanceolate, about 20-30 cm long and about 1 cm wide, relatively soft, and drooping in an arc. The spadix is axillary, 20-50 cm long, dioecious. The fruit is about 1.5 cm long, pale green at first, and jujube-red when mature.
The Beautiful Phoenix Palm is native to the Indochina region, and is widely cultivated in various provinces and regions of southern China. There are about 17 species in the same genus, mainly produced in the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa. It likes a hot, humid tropical climate, likes light but is also shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, and barren-tolerant, and likes well-drained, fertile sandy loam. It has relatively strong cold tolerance and can overwinter safely at around 0°C in winter.
The Beautiful Phoenix Palm is mostly propagated by sowing. After flowering, pollination easily leads to fruit set. The fruit matures from October to November, and after harvesting it is either sown immediately or sown in spring of the following year. Sow the seeds in river sand and keep the substrate moist. At 20-30°C, seedlings can emerge in 2-3 months or longer. When the cotyledons of the seedlings reach 5-10 cm, apply dilute liquid fertilizer, then transplant into pots and strengthen water and fertilizer management.
For potting the Beautiful Phoenix Palm, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part river sand mixed as the substrate, adding a small amount of base fertilizer when planting. It has strong adaptability, and both cultivation and care are simple. During the vigorous growing period from April to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month, keep the potting soil moist, and in dry air spray the plant once a day to increase environmental air humidity and benefit plant growth; in other seasons, fertilize less or not at all, and keep the potting soil alternately dry and wet. From June to September, when sunlight is strong, shade should be provided (preferably 50% shading) to avoid yellowing of the leaves; in other seasons, give relatively sufficient light to facilitate robust plant growth. The Beautiful Phoenix Palm is prone to scale insects when the air is dry and ventilation is poor. If scale insects are found, they should be controlled, generally by spraying with 800 times dilution of omethoate; at the same time, improve ventilation and air permeability conditions.
The branches and leaves of the Beautiful Phoenix Palm arch and droop like an umbrella, with evenly distributed, green and glossy leaves, making it an excellent potted foliage plant. Using it to decorate interiors can fill them with a tropical flavor. Generally, small and medium pots are suitable for living rooms, studies, and other places, appearing elegant and generous; large potted plants are often used to decorate conference venues, halls, and so on, appearing solemn and majestic.
Image:Cast Iron Plant
Scientific name: Aspidistra elatior
English name: Common Aspidistra
Aliases: spider-embracing egg, bamboo-leaf
Family name: Liliaceae
Morphological characteristics:
Evergreen herb, with rhizomes. Leaves elliptical to lanceolate, dark green, with slightly wavy margins. Flowers bell-shaped. Flowering period April. Capsule spherical. Likes shade and cannot tolerate strong light; likes warmth and is relatively cold-tolerant; likes moisture; suitable for well-drained, fertile sandy loam.Silver Queen
Latin name: Aglaonema commulatum cv. Silvcr Queen
Aliases: Silver Queen dieffenbachia, Silver Queen Chinese evergreen, Silver Queen aglaonema
Botanical characteristics: Perennial herbaceous plant. Grows 30-40 cm tall, with an upright, unbranched stem and obvious internodes. Leaves alternate, with long petioles, the base enlarged into a sheath, leaves narrowly long, pale green, with gray-green stripes on the leaf surface, relatively large in area.
Silver Queen is famous for its unique air-purifying ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability! Therefore, it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.
This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a relatively long time.
Can remove: formaldehyde, nicotine
“Silver Queen can absorb the radiation from printers.”Snake Plant
Snake Plant, also called tiger skin plant and thousand-year plant, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Sansevieria in the family Liliaceae.
The underground part of the snake plant has tough rhizomes, and it has no stem. Leaves are clustered, fleshy, linear-lanceolate, hard and leathery, upright, slightly grooved at the base; dark green, with horizontal bands alternating light green and dark green on both sides, slightly covered with white powder. Raceme, flowers white to pale green, with a sweet, faint fragrance; flowering period spring and summer. Common cultivated varieties include:
Golden-edged Snake Plant: shaped like the snake plant, but the leaf margins are bordered with broad golden-yellow bands.
Short-spike Snake Plant: a dwarf variety, about 10-20 cm tall, a mutant of the golden-edged snake plant, with short and wide leaves that grow in swirling, overlapping fashion.
Onion-leaf Snake Plant: also called cylindrical-leaf snake plant. The leaves are cylindrical, roughly the same thickness from top to bottom, slightly pointed and thinner at the tip, with longitudinal shallow grooves on the leaf surface, and each leaf grows independently.
The snake plant is native to arid Africa and southern Asia, and is cultivated everywhere in China. It has strong adaptability, likes warmth and humidity, is drought-tolerant, and likes light but is also shade-tolerant. It is not strict about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is better. Its optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
The snake plant can be propagated by division and cuttings. Each spring after the temperature rises, carry out division along with repotting, that is, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old culture soil, expose the rhizome, and cut it along its direction into several plants, so that each plant contains at least 3-4 mature leaves, then pot them separately with new culture soil. The material for cutting propagation is the leaf (that is, leaf cuttings), which can be done when the temperature is above 15°C. Cut mature leaves horizontally into 7-8 cm long segments as cuttings, let them dry slightly, then insert into river sand. When taking cuttings, be careful not to insert them upside down; maintain a certain humidity, but it should not be too wet, to avoid rotting. In about a month, adventitious buds and adventitious roots can grow from the cut end, forming new plants. Small seedlings propagated by leaf cuttings of golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edges and variegated patterns disappear, reducing ornamental value, so these varieties are not suitable for leaf-cutting propagation and can only be propagated by division.
For potting the snake plant, use equal parts leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the substrate. It grows well under sufficient light; besides avoiding direct sunlight in midsummer, it should receive more sunlight in other seasons; if placed in a too-dark indoor spot for too long, the leaves will darken and lack vitality. In addition, if it has been placed indoors for a long time, it should not suddenly be moved directly into sunlight; it should first be moved to a brighter spot to let it have an adaptation period before receiving sunlight, to avoid burning the leaves. Watering should be moderate, following the principle of preferring dry over wet. Usually wipe dust from the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and glossy. In spring, when new plants sprout at the root crown, water appropriately more to keep the potting soil moist; in the high-temperature summer season, also keep the potting soil moist frequently; after late autumn, control the amount of watering and keep the potting soil relatively dry, to enhance cold resistance. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; during the growing season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.
The leaves of the snake plant are firm and upright, with tiger-tail-like horizontal band markings alternating gray-white and dark green on the leaf surface, with a resolute and unusual, peculiar and interesting posture; it has many varieties, with relatively large variations in plant shape and leaf color, exquisite and unique; it has strong adaptability to the environment and is a tenacious plant, widely cultivated and used, and is a common indoor potted foliage plant. It is suitable for decorating and arranging studies, living rooms, and office reception places, and can be appreciated for a relatively long time.Lucky Bamboo
Lucky Bamboo, also called Sander's dracaena, is a foliage plant of the genus Dracaena in the family Liliaceae. Lucky Bamboo is an evergreen small tree, with no underground rhizome, and roots that are yellow-brown. The markings and colors on the leaf surface vary by variety. Common cultivated varieties include: Golden-edged Lucky Bamboo: leaf margins golden-yellow, center green. It likes a hot, humid environment, is not strict about light, and likes light but is also shade-tolerant. Suitable for well-drained sandy loam. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Lucky Bamboo is propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are mostly taken along with shaping and pruning. As Lucky Bamboo grows for many years and the plant grows taller, the leaves at the base of the stem often drop and the plant shape deteriorates; during the growing season, cut the stem into 5-10 cm segments as cuttings, insert them into vermiculite or river sand, and generally roots and sprouts form in 1-2 weeks.
For potting Lucky Bamboo, use equal parts leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand mixed for planting, or use coconut coir and leaf mold plus a small amount of base fertilizer as culture soil. In management, the key is to master humidity and temperature well. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist frequently and frequently spray water on the leaf surface to maintain relatively high environmental humidity; too dry will cause the leaf tips to dry up; in winter, the potting soil should not be too wet, but the leaf surface should still be sprayed frequently, and at the same time pay attention to cold protection, to avoid the leaves yellowing, shrinking, and even dropping. During the vigorous growing period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer 2-3 times a month to keep the leaves green and glossy. It is not strict about light and is suitable for growing under bright scattered light; avoid direct sunlight; if exposed to strong sun or dryness, the leaf surface will become rough, scorched, and lack luster, reducing ornamental value.Anthurium
Anthurium scientific name: Anthurium andraeanum
Anthurium aliases: flamingo flower, flamingo lily, Anthurium, red flamingo lily.
Anthurium family and genus: Araceae, genus Anthurium.
Anthurium origin and distribution:
Anthurium is native to the tropical regions of the Americas and likes a warm, humid climate. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments, but is not shade-tolerant; it likes sunlight but avoids direct sunlight; it is not cold-tolerant; it likes fertilizer but avoids saline-alkaline conditions. At present, greenhouses with light, temperature, and water regulation systems are used for cut flower cultivation. In frost-free hot areas of Yunnan, simple shade sheds have also produced very good cut flowers and potted flowers. With the improvement of economic levels, Anthurium has good prospects as a high-grade flower. Anthurium flowers are unique, with bright and gorgeous spathes, rich and highly varied colors, and a long flowering period, blooming continuously throughout the four seasons; the vase life is very long, with water culture lasting up to 1 month, and a single potted flowering period can reach 4-6 months. The optimum growth temperature is 25-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 15°C. It requires loose, air-permeable, well-drained, humus-rich acidic soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5.
Anthurium morphological characteristics:
It is a perennial herb of the Araceae family, 30-70 cm tall, with leaves emerging from a short stem, leathery, long heart-shaped, entire, with hard, slender petioles, 30-40 cm long and about 10 cm wide. Flowers are terminal, about 50 cm long; the spathe is heart-shaped, 10-20 cm long and 8-10 cm wide, with a wavy wrinkled surface; the spathe has a bright waxy luster; the spadix is cylindrical, upright, about 6 cm long, yellow, at first glance looking like artificial flowers; the flower posture is peculiar and beautiful, and the cut flower life is more than 30 days, making it a high-grade flower material for arrangements. There are many similar varieties, with flower colors including red, peach-pink, vermilion, white, red with green markings, green, orange, and other colors; the flowering period is long, and it can bloom throughout the year. It is a perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous flower. The plant can reach 1 m tall, with short internodes. Leaves emerge from the rhizome, with long petioles, solitary, oblong-cordate or ovate, deep bright green, glossy. Flower buds emerge from the leaf axils; the spathe is upright and spreading, leathery, perfectly round-ovate, orange-red or scarlet. Its variant varieties include those with milky white spathes, those inlaid with white-green, multicolored, and those with delicate red edges, extremely varied. The spadix is sessile, cylindrical, upright, slightly leaning outward. Flowers are bisexual, with a perianth having four lobes, 4 stamens, and a 2-locular ovary, each locule with 1-2 ovules. The small berry contains 2-4 seeds, pink, densely clustered on the spadix. It is one of the most precious cut flower varieties today, and because its flowers are bright and eye-catching, covered with wax, and have a long preservation period, it has become an important flower arrangement ornament for high-grade occasions.
Anthurium ecological habits:
It likes an environment with high air humidity and smooth drainage, and likes shade and warmth. It can bloom and fruit year-round in an environment where the daytime temperature is not higher than 28°C and the nighttime temperature is not lower than 20°C; above 35°C will cause sunscald, below 14°C will affect growth, and a continuous low temperature below 0°C will freeze the plant to death. It requires air humidity of 80%, soil pH of 5.5, and an Ec value of 1.2 is suitable. It requires loose, fertile soil, and soilless cultivation is best.
Anthurium propagation and cultivation
The optimum growth temperature for Anthurium is 20-30°C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, the minimum temperature is 14°C, and below 10°C there is a possibility of cold damage at any time. The optimum relative air humidity is 70%-80%, and it should not be lower than 50%, because maintaining relatively high air humidity in the cultivation environment is the key to successful Anthurium cultivation. Therefore, leaf surface spraying should be done many times throughout the year. Anthurium is not tolerant of strong light, and year-round cultivation should be in an appropriately shaded environment, that is, choose greenhouse cultivation with protective facilities. In spring, summer, and autumn, appropriate shading should be provided, especially in summer when 70% shading is needed. Direct sunlight will make the leaf temperature higher than the air temperature; too high a leaf temperature will cause burning, scorched leaves, fading of flower buds, and slowed leaf growth.
1. Anthurium propagation: Usually by division; at present, tissue culture is mostly used for mass propagation, and seed propagation is used in breeding. For division, in spring the tiller buds at the rhizome of the adult mother plant can be separated and planted separately; for tissue culture, young leaves are mostly used as explants, induced through callus to differentiate clustered buds, then induced to root and form seedlings. From inoculation to seedling transplanting takes about 4 months, and after planting it blooms in 2-3 years.
2. Anthurium cultivation: Anthurium is mostly grown as a cut flower in greenhouses, and can also be potted for ornament. It requires a greenhouse with heating, ventilation and cooling, and shading conditions. Soilless cultivation is mostly used, and the cultivation substrate is preferably a mix of 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 peat. Usually planted from January to May, when the seedlings have grown to 6-7 leaves and are about 30 cm tall; form ridges 30 cm high, plant on the ridges, with a plant and row spacing of 30×40 cm, use drip irrigation, and apply nutrient solution twice a week. During the growing period, pay attention to temperature, humidity, and light regulation. The optimum temperature is 27-28°C; during high summer temperatures, spray water and ventilate to cool down; in winter, keep the nighttime temperature at 15°C. Adjust the light to 20000-25000 lux, and provide shading when it is too strong. Strong light and high temperature in summer easily cause leaf burning. Too much watering or poor drainage easily causes root rot. The suitable time for harvesting cut flowers is when the yellow part of the spadix accounts for 1/4-1/3; cut from the base of the flower stalk. Immediately place in water after harvesting. When transport is needed, fix as single stems and lay them flat in layers in boxes. Anthurium lasts a long time in water; when kept in water, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and cut off 1 cm from the base of the flower stalk to keep the cut fresh and facilitate water uptake. It can be stored for 3-4 weeks at 13°C and still remain fresh, and below 7°C causes chilling injury. When potting, the potting soil can be peat or leaf mold plus decomposed horse manure and an appropriate amount of perlite, or 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 river sand. Pot when there are 5-6 leaves; use small pots for small seedlings, and gradually transfer to larger pots as they grow; place more broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and air exhaust. Repot once every 1-2 years; watering is best done by spraying and drenching the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. During the growing period, apply dilute alum fertilizer water once a week.
Anthurium pest and disease control
The main pests of Anthurium are red spider mites and scale insects; the main diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot, which can be controlled by spraying omethoate and thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution respectively.
Anthurium is very popular because of its unique flower shape, brilliant flower color, and year-round blooming, and can be cultivated both as a cut flower and appreciated as a potted flower. The spathe of Anthurium used as a cut flower is unusually bright red and waxy and shiny, with a long vase life. When potted for ornament, the green leaves paired with the bright red spathe when it blooms in spring are very beautiful; when there are flowers, enjoy the flowers, and when there are no flowers, enjoy the leaves. It is an excellent small indoor potted flower. It is often used for beautifying and arranging family rooms, living rooms, and conference rooms. In the global tropical flower trade, Anthurium sales rank second only to orchids. Anthurium is mainly used as a cut flower. In recent years, due to the continuous breeding of new multi-flower varieties.Green Emerald Philodendron
Green Emerald Philodendron, also called long heart-leaf philodendron and green emerald, is a perennial evergreen climbing foliage plant of the genus Philodendron in the family Araceae.
Green Emerald Philodendron is a climbing species, with a thick stem and aerial roots at the nodes. Leaves are long heart-shaped, 25-35 cm long and 12-18 cm wide, with an abrupt pointed tip and a deep heart-shaped base, green, entire, and glossy. The young shoots and leaf sheaths are both green. Excellent related varieties in the same genus include:
Red Emerald Philodendron: also called red emerald, with leaves and stems dark red.
Red-petiole Philodendron: the petioles, leaf undersides, and young new growth are often dark red.
Violin-leaf Philodendron: also called split-leaf philodendron, with violin-shaped leaves, 5-lobed, with wide basal lobes in an ear shape, narrow in the middle, and a long elliptical tip, dark green in color, glossy.
Heart-leaf Philodendron: also called sharp heart climbing philodendron and round-leaf philodendron, with green stems and leaves, and heart-shaped leaves.
Green Emerald Philodendron and most others are native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, climbing and growing on tree trunks and rocks. They like warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. The optimum growth temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Green Emerald Philodendron is mostly propagated by cuttings, and roots very easily in the hot season. Generally from April to August, cut 3-4 nodes of the stem, remove the lower leaves, and insert the cuttings into a substrate of half leaf mold and half river sand, keeping the substrate and air moist. After 2-3 weeks, they can root and be potted.
The potting substrate for Green Emerald Philodendron is preferably loam rich in humus and well-drained, generally prepared from 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat soil, and a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer. When planting, a column can be placed in the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it to let them climb and grow. It likes a hot, humid environment and must keep the potting soil moist, especially in summer when it cannot lack water, and the leaf surface should also be sprayed frequently; but avoid water accumulation in the potting soil, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Generally, water once a day in spring and summer, and once every 3-5 days in autumn; in winter, reduce the amount of watering, but the potting soil should not be completely dry. During the growing season, pay frequent attention to topdressing, generally fertilizing 1-2 times a month; in late autumn and winter, when growth is slow or stopped, stop fertilizing. It likes bright light and avoids strong sunlight; generally during the growing season, 50%-60% shading is needed; but it can also endure a dark indoor environment, though too weak light for a long time easily causes spindly growth, longer internodes, and thin, weak growth, which is unfavorable for ornament.
The leaves of Green Emerald Philodendron are broad and deep green; when grown climbing, it can form a green round shape, with a neat and robust plant shape, full of tropical style. It has strong shade tolerance and is very suitable for indoor decorative cultivation. It is often grown in medium and large sizes, displayed in halls, conference rooms, offices, and other places, and is extremely spectacular.Spider Plant
Spider Plant is a perennial evergreen foliage plant of the genus Chlorophytum in the family Liliaceae. Spider Plant is a perennial herb, with clustered cylindrical fleshy fibrous roots and rhizomes. The biggest feature of the spider plant is that mature plants will from time to time produce stolons, and small plantlets will grow at the tips of the stolons. The flower scape is slender, longer than the leaves, and curved and drooping; flowers are white, several per cluster, scattered sparsely on the inflorescence axis. The flowering period is between spring and summer, and it can also bloom indoors in winter. At present, in addition to the pure green-leaf variety, horticultural varieties of spider plant also include large-leaf spider plant, golden-center spider plant, and golden-edge spider plant. It likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. It has strong adaptability and is relatively drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant. It is not choosy about soil, and grows better in loose sandy loam. It is not strict about light, generally suitable for growing under medium light conditions, and also tolerates weak light. The optimum growth temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Spider Plant can be propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low for division, it can be done in other seasons. For plants potted for 2-3 years, divide the dense potted seedlings into two to several clumps when repotting in spring, and pot them separately as new plants. Spider Plant can also be propagated using the small plantlets on the stolons. During the growing season, cut off the small plantlets on the stolons and plant them in culture soil or water; after the small plantlets grow roots, transplant them into pots.
For potting Spider Plant, commonly use equal parts leaf mold or peat soil, garden soil, and river sand mixed with a small amount of base fertilizer as the substrate. Repot once every 2-3 years, remaking the culture soil. Its fleshy roots have well-developed water-storage tissue and relatively strong drought resistance, but from March to September during the vigorous growing period it needs a relatively large amount of water, so it should be watered and misted frequently to increase humidity; after autumn, gradually reduce the amount of watering to improve the plant's cold resistance. During the vigorous growing period, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month. The fertilizer should be mainly nitrogen fertilizer, but golden-center and golden-edge varieties should not be given excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the linear markings on the leaves will become indistinct. Spider Plant likes a semi-shaded environment; if the placement spot has too strong or insufficient light, the leaves easily become pale green or yellow-green, lacking vitality, losing their proper ornamental value, and may even wither and die; if in direct sunlight and dry air, it is most likely to cause the spider plant to scorch, so it should be placed in a cool, ventilated spot, and attention should be paid to maintaining environmental humidity. Spider Plant is not prone to pests and diseases, but if the potting soil has water accumulation and ventilation is poor, besides causing root rot, root rot disease may also occur, and attention should be paid to spraying for control.
Spider Plant, with stems and leaves like orchids, evergreen throughout the four seasons, suspended indoors, can be called an “air flower.” The stolons it sends out from the leaf axils produce many small plantlets with roots, hanging down along the pot, very elegant. Spider Plant is also called an indoor air “purifier”; it can absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen peroxide, and other volatile gases, purifying the room's air and benefiting human health. However, Spider Plant often easily has withered leaf tips, affecting the appearance, so attention must be paid to prevention and control. The method of prevention and control should start from the causes: there are more than 200 kinds of spider plants, and common ones include golden-edge and silver-edge spider plants, golden-center spider plants, and entire-edge spider plants. Spider Plant is native to South Africa, South America, and tropical regions of Asia. It likes warmth, semi-shade, and humidity, and is not cold-tolerant. If water is insufficient in summer and autumn, or frost is relatively severe in winter, the leaf tips often easily wither. Specific prevention and control methods can be taken: (1) Frequently pay attention to watering and misting, keeping the potting soil and surrounding air moist. Because it has many leaves and is suspended in the air, or placed in a ventilated spot on a balcony, it needs a relatively large amount of water. Therefore, it is necessary to frequently water and mist the potting soil, leaf surface, and the area around the pot. Generally, in summer and autumn, water and mist 1-2 times a day in the morning and evening; in winter and spring, water once every 4-5 days, less in winter and a little more in spring. Only in this way can the potting soil be kept moist and the air humid. At the same time, the spider plant leaves should also be cleaned of dust in a timely manner to keep them fresh and enhance ornamental appeal. (2) Place the flower pot in a semi-shaded spot to prevent strong light exposure. Although Spider Plant needs an appropriate amount of light, it avoids direct sunlight, otherwise it also easily causes leaf withering. (3) Spider Plant is best with a large pot and few plants, and likes sandy loam with good drainage and air permeability. For a medium-sized flower pot, generally planting 2-3 plants is suitable. If there are too many plants, the water demand is also greater, and if the pot is small and the soil water supply is insufficient, the leaves also easily wither. Attention should also be paid to frequently cutting off withered and dead leaves. You can also, along with repotting in spring or autumn each year, change the smaller pot to a larger pot for planting, and at the same time remove excess branches and leaves.Golden Barrel Cactus
Golden Barrel Cactus, alias yellow-spined golden barrel, is the most charming cactus ball species in the genus Echinocactus of the family Cactaceae. In cultivation there are also several main variants, such as white-spined golden barrel, wild-spined golden barrel, short-spined golden barrel, golden barrel variegata, golden barrel crest, and others.
Origin and habits: The Golden Barrel Cactus is native to the desert regions of Mexico, and is now introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. The Golden Barrel Cactus likes ample sunlight, and mostly prefers fertile, well-permeable sandy loam. During the high-temperature hot period in summer, appropriate shading should be provided to prevent the ball from being burned by strong light.
Morphological characteristics: The stem of the golden barrel cactus is spherical, the body is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the ball is densely covered with golden-yellow woolly hairs; the flowers are yellow, borne terminally amid the woolly hairs, of equal size, very beautiful and spectacular; the fruit is covered with scales and woolly hairs, and the seeds are black and smooth.
Propagation techniques: The golden barrel cactus is propagated by sowing and by grafting offsets. 1. Sowing method: seeds collected in the current year give a high germination rate. Sowing is carried out from May to September. After germination, in 30 to 40 days the seedling bodies have reached the size of a grain of rice or a mung bean, and can be transplanted or grafted onto rootstock to speed up growth. 2. Offset grafting method: graft seedlings that have been grown for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus stems to speed up growth. When the scion has grown to a certain size or the rootstock can no longer support it, it can be cut off, and after the wound has dried, it can be rooted as a cutting and potted. In fertile soil and a well-ventilated environment, seedlings grown without grafting also grow quickly. After potting, seedlings or grafted offsets should be placed in semi-shade, avoiding direct sunlight; if the body does not shrivel after 7 to 10 days, it has taken root.
Management techniques: The golden barrel cactus likes lime-containing sandy loam, which can be mixed from equal parts of coarse sand, loam, leaf mold and a small amount of aged wall ash. Once a year, the pot should be repotted with fresh soil and old roots trimmed off. In mid-March, take the ball out of the pot, cut off the old roots, and do not damage the main root. After trimming, place it in a ventilated spot to air for 4 to 5 days so the cut surfaces dry; the new potting soil for repotting should use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, mixed evenly with coal ash, plant ash and a small amount of animal bone meal; the pot should be disinfected by sun exposure, steaming or spraying with chemicals to prevent the ball from rotting.
The golden barrel cactus likes abundant sunlight, but in summer it should have semi-shade; when the temperature reaches above 35°C, it should be shaded around noon to avoid strong sunlight scorching the body. Before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., it can be placed in the sun to encourage more flower buds and to avoid excessive shading, which makes the body elongate and reduces its ornamental value. The overwintering temperature should be kept at 8 to 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept dry. When the temperature is too low, yellow spots will appear on the body. Protect it from rain in summer.
Summer is the peak growing season for the golden barrel cactus, and its water requirement increases. If there is drought, water frequently, preferably in the early morning and evening; never water with very cold water at hot noon, as this easily causes "chilling" and disease. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, a little sprinkling to moisten the pot surface is enough; do not spray water on the top of the ball or the grafted area, to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growing period, apply 1 to 2 times every half month a dilute fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other ingredients, applied together with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed and of appropriate concentration.
The golden barrel cactus is robust by nature and highly disease-resistant, but in summer, due to factors such as humidity, heat and poor ventilation, it is susceptible to red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and other pests and diseases, so control should be strengthened. For damage by red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and other pests and diseases, control should be strengthened. For red spider mites, spray with a 1000 to 1500 times dilution of 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon. When scale insects, whiteflies and other pests are found, they can be removed by hand.
Ornamental value: The golden barrel cactus has a very long lifespan and is easy to cultivate. A mature large golden barrel cactus has abundant flowers and a robust body, resplendent in gold and jade, with very high ornamental value. Moreover, it is small in size and takes up little space, making it an ideal ornamental plant for urban household greening.Peace Tree (Cinnamon)
Peace Tree is an elegant name for cinnamon-type plants in the genus Cinnamomum of the Lauraceae family. It is an evergreen small tree with green, smooth, fuzz-free branchlets; leaves are opposite or nearly opposite, ovate-oblong, with pointed tips, thickly leathery, about 10 cm to 22 cm long and 5 cm to 8 cm wide, bright green on the upper surface with a metallic luster, grayish-green to yellow-green beneath, with obvious triplinerved veins. It is a relatively popular foliage plant.
It likes a warm, humid, sunny environment, is fairly shade-tolerant, and prefers a warm, frost- and snow-free, foggy, highly humid environment; it does not tolerate drought, severe cold or saline-alkaline conditions. For cultivation, loose, fertile, well-drained, organic-rich acidic sandy loam should be used. Its optimum growth temperature is 22°C to 30°C; it does not tolerate low temperatures below 5°C, and should be brought indoors before Frost's Descent and taken out after Qingming. Its light requirements are as follows: from mid-May to mid-October, 40% to 50% shading should be provided, as overly strong light easily scorches the leaves; however, it can also grow well when kept for a long time in a well-lit indoor spot. During the growing season, the potting soil should always be kept moist, and the leaves and surrounding environment should be sprayed frequently so that the relative air humidity is maintained at around 80%. In northern regions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder should be added to the irrigation water, or a small amount of edible vinegar can be dripped in, to increase the acidity of the water and meet its need for an acidic soil environment. For potted plants, during the growing season it is advisable to loosen the soil once a month, always keeping the root system in a well-aerated state. After the plant sends out new leaves, apply a dilute cake fertilizer solution once a month, and after autumn begins, apply 2 consecutive topdressings of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to increase the plant's cold resistance. When fertilizing, avoid raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer and heavy fertilizer; in particular, do not use highly concentrated chemical fertilizer solutions, otherwise fertilizer burn to the roots is very likely, causing the leaves to turn yellow and scorch and the plant to die.
Under conditions of poor indoor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and insufficient light, the leaves are prone to brown spot disease, but it usually occurs mostly from April to May. Its symptoms are: it occurs mostly on new leaves, initially appearing on the leaf surface as elliptical yellow-brown spots, which then continuously expand, and more small black dots appear within the spots on the upper leaf surface, while the underside of the spots is purple; after the whole leaf turns yellow, it withers and falls off. Control methods: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and burn them promptly. At the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. For a small number of spots on household potted plants, miconazole cream can be applied, which can inhibit the expansion of the spots.
Yellowing and falling of leaves may be caused by the following reasons: first, it is a newly potted plant bought back from the south, with severely damaged roots, plus long-distance transport and cold weather; second, the indoor temperature in winter is below 5°C, causing yellowing and leaf drop due to cold damage; third, overwatering leads to root rot and causes yellowing and leaf drop; fourth, the water is alkaline, causing the leaves to slowly turn yellow; fifth, improper fertilization, with too much or too concentrated fertilizer, causes the fine nutrient roots to lose water, shrivel and die. For plants with yellowing and falling leaves, check the root system; if part of the roots has already rotted, cut off the rotted part and replant it in clean, fresh potting soil. Around the cut on the roots, surround it with a ring of moist fine sand, which can promote wound healing and the sprouting of new roots. For the withered and dead branches and leaves, cut them all off. After repotting, spray more and water less, keeping the potting soil moist. After mid-April, when the outdoor temperature is not lower than 15°C, it can be moved outdoors, and normal fertilization can only be resumed after new leaves have grown.Zebra Dieffenbachia
Zebra Dieffenbachia, also called giant dumb cane and dumb sugarcane, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family. Its stem is cylindrical and fleshy, often with white ring marks on the stem, which are traces left after the leaves fall off. The leaves of zebra Dieffenbachia are long-elliptical, with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes scattered on both sides of the green midrib, appearing especially graceful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia.
Zebra Dieffenbachia is native to Colombia and likes a warm, humid climate. Its optimum growth temperature is 25°C to 30°C. In winter, the indoor temperature should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. The potting soil can be mixed from 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam and 1 part sand. Zebra Dieffenbachia likes semi-shade and avoids direct sunlight, and can be grown indoors all year round. It is tolerant of waterlogging; a water tray can be placed under the pot with water in it, so that water continuously seeps through the small holes at the bottom of the pot to moisten the potting soil. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not frost-damaged, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If it is kept indoors for the winter and grows weakly with a tendency to become leggy, it can be placed outdoors in semi-shade for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors after its vigor has recovered. Fertilization can be carried out during the growing season, depending on its growth vigor, once or twice a month, applying more decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote lush green leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.
Its "flower" is the typical spathe-and-spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It seldom or never sets seeds, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically asexual, with the main methods being tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method is to cut the old stem into 10 to 15 cm segments in spring, insert them obliquely into sandy soil, keep them moist, and transplant them into pots after they have rooted and grown leaves; alternatively, during the peak growing season, cut the stem into small segments with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, let them air for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then plant them directly in pots, keep them moist, and they will soon root and grow leaves. You can also cut leaf-bearing stem segments and insert them in a transparent glass water bottle, fixing them with white rice stone used for architectural decoration; in about half a month you can see it grow pure white, jade-like adventitious roots, so you can both view the leaves and admire the roots. Because its sap is toxic, take care during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as zebra Dieffenbachia, which also have a certain ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and luster, a tall plant and sturdy stems, making it an ideal indoor ornamental specimen.Maidenhair Fern
Maidenhair Fern: also called iron-wire grass and iron-wire fern, it is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Adiantum in the Adiantaceae family.
Maidenhair fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern with a plant height of 10-40 cm. The rhizome grows horizontally, densely covered with brown scales, and the leaf stalks are slender and hard, like iron wire, hence the name maidenhair fern. Its ecological habits are a liking for warmth, humidity and a semi-shade environment.
Maidenhair fern is mainly propagated by division. Division is best done in spring before new buds sprout, in conjunction with repotting. Tip the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old potting soil, cut its rhizome, divide it into two to several clumps, and pot them separately. In addition, after the spores of maidenhair fern mature, they scatter in a warm, humid environment and propagate and grow on their own; when they have grown to a certain size, they can also be potted.
Maidenhair fern likes loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potting, the potting soil can be made by mixing equal parts of loam, leaf mold and river sand. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to always keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. Maidenhair fern likes bright diffused light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves will wither and yellow or even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant; its optimum growth temperature is 13-22°C, and its winter overwintering temperature is 5°C.Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco)
Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) is a species within the dragon's blood trees, of the genus Dracaena in the Agavaceae family.
The dragon tree was originally a wild plant in the tropical forests of Hainan Island, and after artificial domestication and cultivation, it has now become a shade-loving plant suitable for indoor display.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen tree. The plant can reach 10 m in height, slightly branched. The leaves are mostly densely borne on the flat crown, sword-shaped, 45 cm to 60 cm long and 3 cm to 4 cm wide, hard and upright, bright green. The panicle is white with green. What is commonly seen in cultivation is a stemless or short-stemmed foliage seedling.
Key points for propagation and cultivation: It can be propagated by cuttings, layering and sowing. For cuttings, in early spring use mature thick branches, remove the leaves, cut them into 5 cm to 10 cm segments, and lay them flat in a hotbed with bottom heat, maintaining a temperature of 25°C to 30°C and fairly humid air; they will root in about 1 month. For outdoor cuttings in summer, a shade shed must be built for shading. For sowing, seeds can be collected from larger old plants and sown in spring. The cultivation soil should be a mixed fertile soil made of leaf mold, clay loam and sand.
Application value: The dragon tree is both a foliage flower and a flowering flower, and is suitable as background material for decorating the main rostrum of large assembly halls, being extremely spectacular. Traditional Chinese medicine can be extracted from the leaf bases and stems and branches, and it has hemostatic effects.Bamboo Palm
[Aliases] Guanyin bamboo, palm bamboo
[Family and genus] Arecaceae, genus Rhapis
[Place of origin] Southeastern, southern and southwestern China, Japan
[Growth habits] Likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, well-ventilated environment; drought-tolerant; afraid of scorching sun; optimum growth temperature 25-30 degrees; in winter the nighttime temperature is best not lower than 5 degrees, but it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0 degrees; avoid long periods of cold wind and frost and snow; generally potted plants can overwinter safely indoors
[Soil] Likes fertile, well-drained sandy loam, and grows well in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus
[Temperature and environment] Likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, ventilated environment. It grows well in semi-shade; in summer and autumn avoid direct sunlight, and it is best to shade about 70%; in summer especially avoid scorching sun exposure, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly; in winter and spring, more light is better
[Water and fertilizer] From May to September, during the peak growing period, water more to keep the soil moist; better moist than dry, but it must not become waterlogged, otherwise the roots easily rot. During high temperatures, also spray water on the leaves and ground frequently to increase air humidity, and appropriately reduce watering in autumn and winter. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote a rich, dark green leaf color; stop fertilizing in winter
[Pest and disease control] In a well-ventilated environment there are few pests and diseases. If ventilation is poor, scale insects and aphids are likely to occur. If only a few occur, remove them by hand promptly, pay attention to ventilation and air permeability, and prune dead branches and fallen leaves in time
[Economic value] This species is a traditional fine foliage plant of our country. Its plant shape is compact and elegant, its leaf shape is delicate, it has a rich tropical charm and also the elegance of bamboo. It is suitable for potted display and appreciation in homes, offices, meeting rooms, entrance halls and so onLacy Tree Philodendron
English name: Lacy tree philodendron
Family and genus: Araceae, genus Philodendron
Scientific name: Philodendron selloum Koch
Lacy tree philodendron was originally named feathered Philodendron (feathered Philodendron), native to Brazil, Paraguay and other places; it is a perennial herb. The plant can reach 1 m in height, with a thick, upright stem up to 10 cm in diameter, and the stem has obvious leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots. The leaves spread out in all directions from the top of the stem, with leaf stalks about 40 to 50 cm long; the leaf blade is bright and glossy, ovate-cordate, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but generally potted ones are only about half that size, with the entire leaf deeply pinnatifid and leathery. The leaves of seedling-stage plants are thinner and triangular, and as growth proceeds the leaves gradually become larger, with more and deeper pinnatifid incisions. Lacy tree philodendron likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment, has no strict light requirements, is not cold-tolerant, tolerates shade, and can be grown in pots wherever indoor light is not too weak. It likes fertile, loose, well-drained slightly acidic soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. It is commonly propagated by cuttings. The best time is from May to September; cut a robust stem with 2-3 nodes and insert it directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keep it moist, and it will root in about 20 days. During the growing period keep the potting soil moist; especially in summer it must not lack water, and spray the leaves frequently, fertilizing once a month. The plant grows rapidly and needs repotting every spring; in winter it grows slowly, so fertilization should be stopped and water reduced. For home cultivation, it should be renewed every 3-4 years. Common problems are leaf spot and scale insect damage. For leaf spot, spray with a 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim; for scale insects, spray with a 1000 times dilution of 50%. Lacy tree philodendron has a peculiar leaf form and is very shade-tolerant, suitable for indoor hall display, and especially suitable for decorating music tea houses and hotel rest rooms. Species in the same genus include Philodendron erythrochlamys.Jade Plant, also called Yanzi Zhang (swallow palm), Sedum tree, etc., is a plant of the genus Crassula in the Crassulaceae family.
Native to South Africa, now cultivated in various places. Evergreen small shrub. Stem cylindrical, grayish-green, with nodes. Leaves opposite, flat, fleshy, elliptical, entire, with slightly pointed tips and a rounded base clasping the stem. Flowers red. Likes warmth and dryness, and prefers abundant sunlight and ventilation. Likes loose sandy potting soil. Avoids overly wet soil. Propagation is mainly by cuttings. Soft branches or leaves can be used for cuttings. Before inserting, the cuttings need to be dried in the shade. They can be inserted in spring or autumn into moist yellow sand or perlite.
The cultivation and management of Yanzi Zhang is simple and extensive, but to achieve a full, robust plant shape and a tree full of flowers as scheduled, there is indeed some work to be done. First, Yanzi Zhang grows relatively fast, so it needs repotting every spring, with fertile soil added, and placed in a sunny spot for care. Apply a thin fertilizer solution once every 10 days to half a month, and water once every 2 to 3 days, following the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet. In midsummer high temperatures, Yanzi Zhang is in a semi-dormant state and is afraid that strong light will scorch the leaves, so shading care should be done at this time. Stop fertilizing in summer, pay attention to ventilation, and prevent the leaves from turning yellow and falling off. If there is continuous heavy rain, avoid the rainstorm washing over it, so as to prevent water accumulating at the roots and causing root rot and death. From August to October, as autumn arrives and it turns cooler, Yanzi Zhang begins to resume growth, so light should be strengthened again and the shading equipment removed; at this time, fertilization and watering are in principle the same as in spring. Before Frost's Descent, move it into a greenhouse and place it in a sunny indoor spot, stop fertilizing, and control watering, basically watering once every half month, with the amount of water being one half of that in summer. Yanzi Zhang is not cold-tolerant in winter, and the temperature should be kept above 7°C. Prune and shape it once a year, carried out when repotting in spring or when moving it into the greenhouse in late autumn, so that the plant shape remains simple and elegant all year round.
Yanzi Zhang has few pests and diseases, but sometimes suffers from anthracnose and leaf spot. It can be sprayed with a 1000 times dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder. If indoor ventilation is poor, the stems and leaves are susceptible to scale insect damage. When pests are found, brush them off by hand immediately; if the damage is severe, spray with a 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsion for control.
Jade Plant: its leaves contain euphol, and when the human body comes into contact with the sap flowing from the leaves, it causes skin redness, swelling and pain; if it splashes into the eyes, it can even cause blindness.
Although the Jade Plant is not striking in appearance, because this succulent plant has a robust constitution, is drought-tolerant, easy to cultivate and full of branches and leaves, with leaves as green as jade all year round, and additionally its swollen stem nodes give it the posture of an ancient tree stump, potted Jade Plants are now relatively commonly seen on the balconies of urban and rural residences in the Jiangnan region.
Although the Jade Plant is easy to propagate, easy to grow and easy to manage, it is still common for some residents' balcony Jade Plants to be "jade trees in the wind" in spring, summer and autumn, only to become wilted and faded once winter passes, or even become a "bare chicken." This is mainly because the grower only sees the easy-to-cultivate side of the Jade Plant and ignores its fragile side, still placing it on an open balcony after severe cold arrives and letting it suffer cold wind and freezing invasion, causing the Jade Plant to suffer freeze damage. After freeze damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the Jade Plant begin to show wounds like those scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off; in severe cases only the bare main stem remains.
Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering balcony-potted Jade Plants is very important, and the following aspects should mainly be addressed:
1. Move the pot indoors in time. After winter arrives, move the Jade Plant to an indoor place kept at 7°C to 10°C for warmth. On warmer days, at noon the Jade Plant can be moved to the balcony to bask in the sun, and moved back indoors at night.
2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should mainly be slightly dry, and a fine mist should be sprayed on the leaves at appropriate times to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.
3. Move it into a warm shed for warmth. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if not, it can also be covered and sealed with plastic film, but attention must be paid to the humidity inside the cover. When excessive moisture is found, uncover it in time for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.
4. If, due to earlier mistakes in cold protection measures, the Jade Plant has already suffered freeze damage, do not easily discard the plant. As long as the frost-killed leaves and tender branches are removed and the plump main stem is preserved, with appropriate fertilizing the following spring, new branches and leaves can still sprout from the main stem, and generally after 1 to 2 years of cultivation it can develop into a perfect Jade Plant again.Dracaena fragrans
Latin name: Dracaena
The leaves of Dracaena fragrans are broad and strip-shaped, dark green, sessile, with slightly wavy leaf margins. The leaves can reach 80 cm long. It is suitable for a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. Both abundant light and shade are acceptable. A dormancy temperature of 13°C is relatively suitable, and it must not be lower than 5°C. It is evergreen all year round, highly adaptable, easy to manage, slow-growing and long-lived. It is an excellent foliage plant for indoors and outdoors, especially indoors
The care method for Dracaena fragrans is the same as that for the dragon tree (Dracaena draco).Zamioculcas zamiifolia
A foliage plant of the genus Zamioculcas in the Araceae family, native to tropical Africa, evergreen perennial, with underground tubers. There is no main stem above ground; adventitious buds sprout from the tubers to form large compound leaves, and the leaflets are fleshy with short petiolules, firm and dark green, with a bright luster, and high ornamental value. It is suitable for growing under different light intensities and has strong shade tolerance, earning it the name "king of shade tolerance." It is a newly introduced high-grade indoor ornamental plant. Zamioculcas zamiifolia has large tubers, which sprout numerous buds and form many small tubers; the compound leaves have a lifespan of more than 2-3 years and are constantly renewed by new leaves. Zamioculcas zamiifolia seedlings do not grow fast, and can be grown in small or medium pots for appreciation, and are also suitable for large combined plantings.
Ecological habits
Zamioculcas zamiifolia is native to the tropical (savanna) climate zone of eastern Africa with relatively low rainfall. It likes a warm, slightly dry, semi-shaded environment with little annual temperature variation. It is relatively drought-tolerant, but afraid of cold, avoids strong direct sunlight, and fears heavy, sticky soil and water accumulation in the potting soil; if the potting soil is poorly aerated, it easily causes its tubers to rot. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained, organic-rich soil that is acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong sprouting ability; after cutting off the thick, large compound leaves, new leaves will quickly sprout from the top of the tuber.
Propagation techniques
Division: In April, when the outdoor temperature reaches above 18°C, take the large Zamioculcas zamiifolia plant out of the pot, shake off most of the old soil, pull it apart at the weak junction of the tubers, apply sulfur powder or plant ash to the wounds, and pot them separately. Note that when planting, do not bury them too deep; burying the top of the tuber 1.5 to 2 cm below the soil surface is sufficient. In addition, based on the characteristic that Zamioculcas zamiifolia tubers carry dormant buds, a single large tuber can be cut into small pieces with 2 to 3 dormant buds; after the wounds have dried, first bury and plant them in slightly moist fine sand, and after the cut small tubers have grown into independent plants, pot them.
Cuttings: The cuttings can be a single small leaf, a section of leaf rachis with 2 leaves attached, or a separate section of leaf rachis. From the perspective of rooting effect, cuttings of leaf rachis with leaves root faster, have a higher sprouting rate, and more easily form larger tubers. Insert a single leaf into a mixed substrate of river sand and vermiculite; after 10 to 14 days, a small rooted bulbous stem forms at the leaf base, and after 2 to 3 months of cultivation it can grow into a small plant, but under normal circumstances the seedling formation rate is not high. If the leaf rachis or leaf rachis with leaves is used as the cutting, the substrate can be ordinary fine sand, or a substrate prepared by mixing peat soil, perlite and river sand in a ratio of 3:1:1. The insertion depth of the cutting is 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, leaving only the leaves outside the substrate. After spraying thoroughly with water, place it in a shaded place, keep the ambient temperature at 25°C to 27°C, and according to the degree of dryness and moisture of the substrate, spray the leaves 1 to 2 times a day, keeping the substrate slightly moist; it must not be overly moist, otherwise it will cause the cutting to rot and lead to cutting failure. When the cutting has formed a certain root system, the middle of the root gradually swells to form a small bulbous tuber, and the tuber gradually enlarges. Some relatively tender cutting leaves will yellow and die after potting due to high temperature or poor water management, but the tuber can survive; old mature leaves and cuttings with the whole leaf stalk can also remain green and vigorous. A small number of tubers can sprout and grow new leaves in the same year, but their growth vigor is weak and growth is slow; the following year the tuber will grow robust new shoots and grow normally.
Cultivation and management
Temperature: The optimum growth temperature is 20 to 32°C. Whether potted or field-grown, it requires little annual temperature variation, and productive cultivation is best carried out in a temperature-controllable greenhouse. Every summer, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, the plant grows poorly, and measures such as adding black shade netting and spraying water on the surrounding environment should be used to lower the temperature, creating a suitable environment with a suitable ambient temperature that is also relatively dry and refreshing. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10°C; if the room temperature is below 5°C, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold damage and further seriously endangers its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops below 8°C, it should be moved in time to a well-lit indoor place, and throughout the overwintering period the temperature should be kept between 8°C and 10°C, which is relatively safe and reliable.
Light: Zamioculcas zamiifolia likes light and also has fairly strong shade tolerance, so an environment with relatively good sunlight but also a certain degree of shade should be created for it. It avoids strong direct light, and in particular should avoid the scorching sun exposure after long rain clears in late spring and early summer, and the 5 to 6 hours of unobstructed strong light baking around noon in summer, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves are very easily scorched. In productive cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade shed with 50 to 70% shading, but it must not be too dark, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves will become slender, the leaf color will turn yellow and listless, and the spacing between leaflets will be sparse, thus affecting the compact and beautiful appearance of the plant. For potted plants moved indoors into a greenhouse in winter, supplementary lighting should be provided. Keeping the potting soil on the dry side allows the plant to remain disease-free year round. In addition, the newly sprouted pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant shape remains good.
Water: To care well for potted Zamioculcas zamiifolia, efforts should be made to create an environment that is both moist and on the dry side. In productive cultivation, for plants placed in a greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, the plant should be sprayed with water once a day. Because this plant has relatively strong drought tolerance, it is better to keep the potting soil slightly moist and on the dry side, but occasionally applying excessive water and fertilizer will not cause root rot. In winter, pay attention to spraying water on the leaves and the surrounding environment so that the relative air humidity reaches above 50%. After mid-autumn, reduce watering, or replace watering with spraying, so that the newly sprouted tender leaves can safely pass the winter. In addition, in winter special attention should be paid to the potting soil not being overly moist; being on the dry side is better, otherwise under low-temperature conditions, overly wet potting soil more easily causes the plant's root system to rot, or even the death of the whole plant.
Soil: Because of the special climatic conditions of its place of origin, Zamioculcas zamiifolia has developed relatively strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The cultivation substrate is mostly made by mixing peat, coarse sand or washed coal cinders with a small amount of garden soil, and adjusting its pH to between 6 and 6.5, in a slightly acidic state. Because its tubers are large, its root system is well developed and its pinnate compound leaves are relatively long, during the growing season its growth should be observed in time to decide whether to repot and change the soil. Always keep the cultivation substrate well aerated, so as to create a root environment with good air permeability and drainage. In the plum rain season, check frequently; when water accumulation is found in the pot, repot and change the soil in time.
Fertilizer: Zamioculcas zamiifolia relatively likes fertilizer. In addition to adding an appropriate amount of rotted cake fertilizer or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer to the cultivation substrate, during the growing season a mixed solution of 0.2% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be applied 2 to 3 times a month, or a balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) can be applied at a concentration of 200 to 250 ppm in combination with calcium nitrate. After mid-autumn, to enable it to pass the winter safely, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution should be applied 2 to 3 consecutive times to promote the hardening and filling of the tender leaf rachis and newly sprouted leaves. After the temperature drops below 15°C, all forms of topdressing should be stopped, to avoid fertilizer damage to the roots under low-temperature conditions.
Pest and disease control
Freeze damage: When the winter temperature drops below 5°C, combined with moist potting soil, it easily causes the plant's tender leaves to collapse due to freezing cold, and in severe cases causes the tubers to rot, from which it is very difficult to recover.
Control method: In productive cultivation, during the overwintering period the greenhouse temperature should be maintained at not less than 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept slightly dry.
Scorching: In hot summer, or in clear weather after long rain clears, or for potted plants that have been kept indoors for a long time and have just been moved outdoors for restorative care, direct exposure to sunlight can very easily scorch their plump tender leaves, causing part of the leaves to lose green and turn white, or the entire leaf to be scorched, with the necrotic part later turning brown and black.
Brown spot disease: This disease occurs mostly on the leaves, with the spots nearly circular, gray-brown to yellow-brown, and the edges slightly darker in color. This disease is prone to occur under conditions of high temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation. Control method: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and destroy them in time; at the early stage of the disease, spray the leaves with a 600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or a 500 times dilution of 40% chlorothalonil suspension, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times, with relatively good control effect.
Control method: After summer begins, move the plant in time to a semi-shaded environment; in late spring and early summer after long rain clears, shade the potted plant as early as possible.
Scale insects: In a poorly ventilated, poorly lit environment, the leaves of Zamioculcas zamiifolia are susceptible to the piercing and sucking damage of scale insects.
Control method: In productive cultivation, during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray a 1000 times dilution of 20% buprofezin wettable powder, which has a good insecticidal effect.
Radermachera sinica
Generally refers to the "Radermachera sinica" of the genus Radermachera in the Bignoniaceae family.
Radermachera sinica, also called pepper tree and bone-setting umbrella, is a deciduous tree native to southern China, of the genus Radermachera in the Bignoniaceae family. From the collected pictures, "Radermachera sinica" mainly refers to Radermachera sinica, whose scientific name is Radermachera sinica. The tender branches are mucilaginous, with 1- to 3-pinnate compound leaves; the leaflets are entire and stalked; the bark is light gray with deep longitudinal fissures. The capsule is long-strip-shaped, leathery, 85 cm long and about 1 cm in diameter. It is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan and other places, and is also distributed in Bhutan. Because its leaves are emerald green and glossy with a metallic luster, and it likes light yet is extremely shade-tolerant, potted young trees are a high-grade foliage plant.
Radermachera sinica likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment, and can be propagated by cuttings, sowing, layering and other methods. For cultivation, sandy loam is best; it can take full sun or semi-shade, and its optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 28°C. It is advisable to prune and shape it once before spring sprouting. During indoor display, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, the leaves should also be sprayed with water frequently, and it should be placed in a well-lit spot.
It should be particularly noted that in winter the greenhouse temperature should be kept not lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage easily occurs, or even the death of the whole plant; control watering, and do not water until the surface soil is dry. If the room is too dry, water can be sprayed on the plant and the surrounding environment; do not apply fertilizer.False Aralia
False Aralia is an evergreen small tree or shrub of the genus Plerandra in the Araliaceae family. It can reach 3 m in height. The leaves are alternate; the palmate compound leaves have 7-11 leaflets, shaped like slender fingers, with coarsely serrated leaf margins, arranged radially and alternately. The leaf surface is leathery, dark green, with a coppery metallic luster on the leaves. When it grows to more than 2 m, the fine leaves will become broad leaves; this is its special characteristic. It is suitable for arrangement in relatively spacious meeting halls, restaurants and other brighter places, and can also be used as a decoration for the entrance halls of hotels and large buildings, being full of southern charm. The specific measures for cultivation and management are described as follows:
1. It likes humus-rich loam; best is a potting soil made by mixing leaf mold, garden soil and river sand. From April to August, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month.
2. It likes brightness and avoids scorching sun. Its optimum growth temperature is about 20-28°C; when air humidity is high, it grows more robustly. In summer, if outdoors, it must be shaded 50%; indoor temperature is generally kept at 20°C to 30°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C; if below 8°C, it is susceptible to freeze damage.
3. It requires moist potting soil, avoids dryness, and also avoids waterlogging. If too dry, the leaf tips easily dry up; spray the leaves and around the plant frequently to maintain air humidity. In winter, watering should be reduced as much as possible; cold and wet conditions easily lead to leaf drop.
4. For plants that grow too slender and weak, heavy pruning can be carried out when new leaves sprout, leaving about 10 cm at the base; if the upper branches dry up, heavy pruning is also advisable, to promote the growth of branches and leaves.
5. It is mostly propagated by cuttings. Every year from May to June, cut one-year-old lignified branches and insert them in a 20°C environment; they will root and survive in about 30 days. Sowing propagation can also be used, but seeds are not easy to obtain and must be kept fresh.
6. For potted plants, repot and change the soil once every 2-3 years; after changing the soil, the branches should be pruned. After many years of planting, if the plant ages and its vigor declines, heavy pruning should be carried out in spring, and sufficient fertilizer should then be given to promote the sprouting of new branches and leaves, making the tree shape more beautiful.Monstera deliciosa
Monstera deliciosa, also called Penglai banana and electric wire orchid, is an evergreen large climbing vine of the genus Monstera in the Araceae family.
Place of origin and habits: Native to Mexico and Central America. It likes warmth, shade and humidity, avoids direct sunlight, and requires fertile, well-drained soil.
Morphological characteristics: The vines of Monstera deliciosa can reach more than 10 m in length. The stem is thick and robust, and the aerial roots can reach 1 to 2 m, growing horizontally, slender-columnar, brown. The leaves are heart-shaped and without holes when young, and after growing up become deeply pinnatifid, with perforations between the veins, leathery, drooping.
Propagation techniques: Monstera deliciosa is propagated by layering and cuttings. Layering is carried out from May to August, and after about 3 months it can be cut away from the mother plant. Cuttings are carried out from April to May; cut the scion from the tip of the stem node, each segment with 2 to 3 stem nodes, remove the aerial roots, and insert it with leaves or with leaves removed into a sand bed, maintaining a certain temperature and humidity; after rooting, move it into a pot.
Management techniques: For potted Monstera deliciosa, leaf mold is best. During the growing period, water must be sufficient; when potting and repotting, a 5 to 6 cm deep rim should be left to facilitate more watering, and the potting soil must always be kept moist, watering once every 2 to 3 days; in dry weather, water should also be sprayed on the leaves to keep the air humid, following the watering principle of better moist than dry, so as to favor the growth of branches and leaves and keep the leaves bright. In autumn and winter, watering can be gradually reduced. Excessive watering causes root rot, but the air should still be kept relatively humid, spraying the leaves every 7 to 10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera deliciosa relatively likes fertilizer; to make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading; semi-shade is best, and avoid strong direct sunlight; especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily withered and scorched, affecting the ornamental value.
For large potted plants, insert 1 wooden stick 1.3 to 1.5 m long into the pot, plant the Monstera deliciosa, first to prevent lodging, and second so that it grows luxuriantly attached to the pole. Alternatively, cut the overly tall stems for propagation, letting the mother plant sprout new stems and new leaves again. In winter it should be placed indoors above 10°C, but at least keep the temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will be frost-scorched, and the potting soil should be on the dry side. During the growing period, Monstera deliciosa often suffers from brown spot disease and anthracnose, and can be promptly sprayed with a 1000 times dilution of 50% thiophanate and 75% chlorothalonil, or a 800 to 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim for control. In summer and winter when ventilation is poor, scale insects and noctuid larvae often occur on the back of the stems, sucking sap and eating tender leaves; the insects can be caught by hand or brushed off, and best is to spray with a 1500 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsion, or a 2000 times dilution of 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate, or a 1500 times dilution of 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate.
Monstera deliciosa is a shade-tolerant foliage plant. Generally speaking, it can be kept indoors for a long time, but during the growing period it is best placed indoors in a ventilated spot near a window, to receive outdoor air and light. In the peak growing seasons of summer and autumn, if ventilation is poor, its growth will be affected, and the newly grown leaves will be relatively thin, pale and lusterless, reducing its ornamental value.
Keeping Monstera deliciosa at home has a certain air-purifying effect. It is commonly grown in small and medium pots, placed in indoor living rooms, bedrooms and studies, or it can also be grown in large pots and placed in hotels, restaurants, halls and indoors, or beside garden ponds and under large trees, having quite a tropical flavor. The leaves can also be used as cut-flower foliage material. Monstera deliciosa has been relatively widely introduced and cultivated in our country. The beautiful, peculiar and varied Monstera deliciosa is a famous indoor potted foliage plant and is much loved. Monstera deliciosa is famous for its shade tolerance, and is suitable for display and embellishment in indoor living rooms and corridors. In the south, it is mostly planted scattered in courtyards, beside park ponds, streams and ditches, and beside rocks and in rock crevices. The holes and incisions on the leaves of Monstera deliciosa are partly empty and partly solid, novel and interesting, and the aerial roots hanging at the pot mouth are simple and elegant.Guzmania
Also called star bromeliad. A perennial epiphytic herbaceous plant. Potted plants are about 30 cm tall, and the crown width can reach 80 cm. The leaves are arranged in a slightly loose rosette. The flower scape is often more than 20 cm above the leaf cluster; the flower scape, bracts and several leaves at the base of the flower scape are all red, very gorgeous; between the bracts there are small yellow flowers; the flowering period is spring; although the true flowers open for a relatively short time, the colored flower scape and bracts remain for a very long time, with an ornamental period of about 2 months. It is suitable for cultivation under bright diffused light indoors, and can be placed by a bright window for year-round appreciation. If the light is too dark, it is not easy to flower. There are Guzmania "Red Star", Guzmania "Torch" and Guzmania "Dennis".
Temperature: Normal growth temperature is above 20°C during the day and above 15°C at night; when forcing flowers, the temperature is 25-30°C; the minimum overwintering temperature is above 10°C.
Light: Likes bright light. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, with about 50% shading; no shading in winter.
Water: Always keep water in the leaf cups, changing it once every 2 weeks; water when the surface 1 cm of potting soil becomes dry; water with soft water or rainwater.
Air humidity: Spray water on the leaves and around the plant frequently; foliar feeding can be done by spraying.
Repotting: After flowering, if division propagation is not carried out, repot when the clump has grown very dense.
Propagation: When the offshoots at the base have grown to about 10 cm or more in height, cut them off from the base, let the wounds dry slightly, and pot them in peat soil without fertilizer. Keep them slightly moist, and they can root in about a month.Chamaedorea elegans
[Aliases] Hawaiian palm, Chamaedorea seifrizii, bamboo-stemmed elegant palm
[Family and genus] Subfamily Ceroxyloideae, genus Chamaedorea
[Place of origin] Tropical regions such as Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity, is shade-tolerant, afraid of direct sunlight, and can endure short-term low temperatures of 1-2 degrees
[Soil] For potting, loose, well-aerated, well-permeable sandy loam rich in humus should be used
[Temperature and environment] This species likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. Its optimum growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. In winter, keeping the temperature above 10 degrees allows normal growth, and it can also tolerate short-term low temperatures of 0 degrees. It has strong shade tolerance and can grow for a relatively long time in a darker indoor environment. However, bright diffused light is beneficial to growth. Avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaf color fades or turns yellow
[Watering and fertilizing] During the growing period, the potting soil should always be kept moist; when the air is dry, spray the leaves frequently to increase the ambient air humidity, which favors plant growth and can keep the leaves dark green and glossy; in late autumn and winter, appropriately reduce watering and keep the potting soil moist, to enhance the plant's cold resistance and ability to overwinter. During the growing season from March to October, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks to promote leaf growth and a dark green leaf color
[Pest and disease control] Under high-temperature, high-humidity conditions, this species may suffer from brown spot disease and downy mildew, which can be controlled by spraying with a 1000 times dilution of carbendazim or thiophanate.
[Economic Value]This species has stems resembling green bamboo, with dense branches and leaves of a deep, glossy green, and elegant pinnae, giving a sense of uprightness, refinement, lightness and grace, and delicate beauty. Because it is extremely shade-tolerant, it is very suitable for courtyard landscaping and indoor potted display.Green Yuanbao
Original name: Moreton Bay Chestnut
Other names: Australian chestnut, green yuanbao, pistachio
Scientific name: Castanospermum australe
Origin of the name: It is called green yuanbao because its seeds resemble the shape of a yuanbao, so this name was chosen to bring good luck.
Distribution: Native to Australia
Family and genus: One source says: Fabaceae (Papilionaceae); another says: Fabaceae, genus Castanospermum
Form: A medium-sized tree, with odd-pinnate compound leaves and alternate leaflets; the leaf shape is lanceolate-oblong, about 8-12 cm long, entire-margined and leathery. The pod is up to 20 cm long, and the seed (that is, the green yuanbao) is oval, as large as a hen's egg, and can be roasted for eating.
Uses: Young Moreton Bay Chestnut plants can be used as small potted plants and grown as indoor plants; mature plants can grow to more than 12 m and are suitable as ornamental garden plants or street trees.
Sunlight: Young plants are shade-tolerant, with about 50-70% sunlight; mature plants need sufficient sunlight.
Management: It likes high temperatures, and the most suitable growing temperature is 22-30 degrees.
The ornamental focus of Moreton Bay Chestnut seedlings is the swollen basal seed ball and the sprouts that grow from it, so it must be kept clean and glossy; when watering daily, be careful not to splash muddy water, and keep the surface in the pot level.
Water: Suitable for loose, fertile loam or sandy loam, and drainage must be good. In winter, avoid prolonged moisture.
Fertilizing: Fertilize once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Propagation: Propagated by sowing, with spring and autumn being the most suitable.Cyclamen
Cyclamen: Also known as rabbit ear flower, radish begonia, etc., scientific name Cyclamen persicum, a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Cyclamen in the family Primulaceae, with an unusual flower shape. The leaves emerge from the top of the tuber, are heart-shaped, ovate or kidney-shaped, with fine serrations along the leaf margin; the leaf surface is green with white or gray mottling, the leaf underside is green or purple, and the petiole is relatively long, reddish-brown and fleshy. The flowers are solitary at the top of the flower stem and droop, with the petals rolled upward, just like rabbit ears; the flowers come in white, pink, rose red, bright red, purple-red, pale violet-blue and other colors, often with dark red markings at the base; the petal margins are varied, including entire, notched, wrinkled and wavy forms.
Cyclamen is native to southern Europe, the Mediterranean coast and other places. It likes a warm, humid, cool environment with soft light. The optimum growing temperature is 15°C-20°C; it is not cold-tolerant and fears high temperatures and strong sun. It is suitable for well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.
Cyclamen is a light-loving flower, and winter and spring are also its vigorous flowering period. To make the flower buds abundant, give sufficient sunlight during the bud stage, place it in a sunny spot indoors, and apply phosphate fertilizer once every 1 week, preferably by watering with a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate compound fertilizer solution (containing zinc, boron, molybdenum, manganese, magnesium, copper, iron, sulfur and other medium and trace elements), using about 150 ml per pot. At ordinary times, water once every one or two days to keep the potting soil moist; never water heavily, and water only when the potting soil has dried. But be sure to avoid the potting soil becoming too dry, as excessive dryness will damage the root hairs and cause the upper part of the plant to wilt, and even heavy watering afterward will make it difficult to recover. When watering, the water temperature should be close to room temperature.
Nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied during the flowering period, otherwise it will cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and shorten the life of the flowers. If the leaves are too dense, they can be thinned appropriately so that nutrients are concentrated and flowering is more abundant. When removing leaves or dead flowers, to prevent infection by soft rot, immediately spray once with a 1000-fold “carbendazim” solution.
When cyclamen begins to bloom and continues to form flower buds, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C to 18°C, and must not be lower than 10°C; if the temperature is too high, the flowering period will be shortened, and above 28°C the leaves turn yellow. Never place the flowerpot on a radiator.Umbrella Tree
Umbrella tree, also known as Queensland umbrella tree, Queensland shade tree, Australian ivy palm, commonly called money tree, is a woody foliage plant of the genus Schefflera in the family Araliaceae.
The umbrella tree is a shrub with upright stems and few branches; the young stems are green and gradually become woody later; the bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are palmately compound, and the number of leaflets varies greatly with growth: 3-5 when young, 9-12 when grown, and up to 16. The leaflets are oblong, with a blunt apex and a short abrupt tip, and a blunt base; the leaf margin is wavy and leathery; when young they are densely covered with stellate short hairs, and when slightly larger they are clean and hairless; the leaves are 15-25 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, with a dense and glossy upper surface and a light green underside, and the petiole is reddish-brown. The inflorescence is umbellate, with small white flowers borne terminally, flowering in spring, but potted plants rarely flower.
The umbrella tree is native to Australia and some small islands in the Pacific, and is also distributed in the tropical regions of southern China. It is suitable for warm, humid and well-ventilated environments, likes sun and also tolerates shade, and grows well in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
The umbrella tree can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. When sowing, it is best to sow the seeds immediately after collection, as this gives a high germination rate. Cuttings can be taken in spring, summer and autumn, and generally cuttings are combined with shaping; cut the branches of an irregularly shaped plant 10-15 cm above the potting soil surface to let the mother stem sprout several branches and develop a good tree shape. Cut the removed semi-lignified branches into stem segments 8-10 cm long with 2-3 nodes, insert them into a cutting bed of river sand or perlite, maintain a certain substrate humidity and air humidity, and pay attention to shading. Generally, roots can form in about one month. For thick, large branches with a high degree of lignification, air layering can also be used.
For potted umbrella trees, a mixture of garden soil and leaf mold can be used as the substrate. March to October is its vigorous growing period, with a large amount of growth; generally fertilize once a month, while keeping the soil moist, ensuring sufficient water, and frequently spraying the leaves to avoid dry air and leaf chlorosis and yellowing. In summer, avoid direct sunlight and pay attention to appropriate shading, generally 30-40% shade, so that the leaves do not lose their gloss or become scorched or withered by strong sunlight. Indoor display should be placed in a spot with some diffused light, and attention should be paid to ventilation. In late autumn and winter, reduce the amount of watering and control the amount of fertilizer; in late autumn, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers such as 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be sprayed for foliar feeding to promote the maturation of branches and leaves and improve cold resistance in winter. Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity and poor ventilation in greenhouses and indoors, anthracnose or damage by scale insects and red spiders may occur, so observation and timely control are necessary.
The umbrella tree has broad, soft, drooping leaves shaped like an umbrella; the branches and leaves overlap layer upon layer, the plant shape is elegant, and the posture is light yet not thin, with a strong sense of layering, so in recent years it has been widely cultivated in all provinces and regions of China. The umbrella tree is shade-tolerant and easy to manage and maintain, and can be placed indoors continuously for a long time. It is an excellent medium-to-large foliage plant suitable for decoration in hotels, meeting rooms, living rooms, corridors and passageways, and is also a quite ideal accent plant for corners of family living rooms, studies and bedrooms.Greater Periwinkle
Scientific name: Vinca major
Other names: trailing periwinkle, periwinkle
Family and genus: Apocynaceae, genus Vinca
Native to the Mediterranean coast, India and tropical America. It is cultivated in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Taiwan and other places in China. An evergreen trailing subshrub, clump-forming. The vegetative stems lie prostrate or flat on the ground. The flowering branches are upright, 30-40 cm tall. Leaves opposite, elliptical, with an acute apex, green and glossy; the petioles on flowering branches are short. The whole plant is hairless except for hairs on the leaf margins, petioles, calyx and the throat of the corolla. Flowers solitary in the leaf axils of flowering branches, corolla salverform, blue, 5-lobed. Fruits paired and upright. Flowering period April-May. The cultivar Variegata has slightly smaller leaves with yellow markings.
Greater periwinkle likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded and well-ventilated environment. It is highly adaptable and grows rapidly, with growth peaks in June-August and October each year. It is not strict about light, and grows best in a semi-shaded environment.
Greater periwinkle is commonly propagated by cuttings and division. Propagation can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, and it roots easily. When taking cuttings, cut semi-lignified stems with 3-4 nodes as cuttings. Since root buds grow from the nodes, 1-2 nodes must be buried in river sand during cutting, and the sand should be pressed firm and watered in time to keep it moist. Generally, roots and buds form in 1-2 weeks. When the plant grows to 20-30 cm, it can be transplanted. Transplanting can be done throughout the year except in severe winter. In addition, during the growing season, dense clump-forming plants can be divided along the rhizomes for propagation by division.
Greater periwinkle cultivation requires loose, humus-rich sandy loam; for potting, a mixture of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand can be used as the substrate. Several plants can be planted in each pot at the same time, and pinching can be done in a timely manner to quickly form a full shape. To promote more branching, pinch several times during the growing season; mounding soil at the nodes can produce more adventitious roots and promote vine growth. Because it grows quickly, it needs sufficient watering during the growing period, and liquid fertilizer should be applied 1-3 times a month to ensure rapid growth of the vines and dark green, glossy leaves. It is suitable for a brightly lit environment. But in midsummer, avoid direct strong light to prevent scorching the leaves; appropriate shading is necessary, and a semi-shaded environment is best. Although greater periwinkle prefers warmth during growth, it is also cold-tolerant and can withstand low temperatures of around 0°C in winter.
Greater periwinkle is an excellent groundcover material and can be planted in mass at forest edges or under forests. It is especially suitable for planting at building foundations and on slopes, helping to conserve soil and water.