How to pinch Tradescantia zebrina? Two steps to promote new branch growth, and the timing should not be too early or too late

We know that one of the benefits and uses of Tradescantia zebrina is its ornamental value, and to make the ornamental effect even better, besides adopting the correct cultivation methods so it grows more vigorously, pinching is also very important. So how do you pinch Tradescantia zebrina? Let me tell you the answer.

What does pinching Tradescantia zebrina mean?

So-called pinching, also commonly called topping, refers to tending the reserved main stems, basic branches and side branches. The purpose is to control the plant's height, help the plant produce side branches, and make the plant shape more attractive. So how do you pinch Tradescantia zebrina? The method is as follows.

How to pinch Tradescantia zebrina

1. How often should Tradescantia zebrina be pinched?

The timing of pinching should be neither too early nor too late. It is generally done from late May to mid-June, removing about 1/3 of the new shoots. At the same time, remove 1-3 leaves from the front end of the pinched branch to encourage buds to sprout.

2. Pinching method

1. Choose the main stems, basic branches, side branches and number of leaves to keep. Generally, keep 2-3 leaves at the top, and old side branches should all be cut off.

2. Remove the growing point at the top. Cut off 1-2 cm of vine from the top, and shorten other relatively long vines. Note that after cutting, the wound should not touch water.

Notes: After pinching, be very careful when watering and fertilizing. Do not let water and fertilizer touch the cut. In addition, strengthen follow-up care to avoid pests and diseases caused by pinching.

Care after pinching Tradescantia zebrina

1. Water appropriately

Pinching is generally done during the vigorous growth period, so at this time Tradescantia zebrina needs more nutrients. Watering can be done once every 2-3 days, and the amount of water can be decided according to how moist the potting soil is. Never let water accumulate in the potting soil.

2. Fertilizing

The purpose of pinching is to promote branching and increase the amount of branches and leaves. To let the new branches grow more healthily, fertilizer needs to be supplemented in time, but be sure to avoid applying too much fertilizer, otherwise the loss of yellowing leaves will outweigh the gain.

Unusual tricks for flower cultivation. Friends who love growing flowers, come take a look.

One of my unusual flower-growing tricks: [Soilless cuttings ~ wrapped in soft paper]

Teach you a simple and easy cutting method. No soil, no water, just a few sheets of paper. The specific operation is as follows:

1. Take a sheet of highly absorbent soft paper (toilet paper, etc.), and first wrap the bottom of the cutting, which has been cut at a slant, with the thickness such that after the soft paper absorbs water thoroughly, the slanted cut surface can still be seen. Do not make it too thick, so that changes such as callus healing and rooting can be observed directly, and so that it has good air permeability. This point is crucial.

2. Use soft paper cut to a suitable size to wrap the stem as much as possible, but leaves and buds should be exposed. The wrapping thickness should be enough to keep the soft paper from drying out completely before the cutting roots.

3. After wrapping, place the water-soaked cutting in a container without a drainage hole, seal the mouth of the container tightly with plastic film to retain moisture, and place it in a ventilated environment without direct light. In this way, your operation is complete. After it roots, you only need to pot it up.

(Note: After the cutting is wrapped, if the thickness of the stem is 2 times the stem or slightly thicker, the soft paper can be kept from drying out completely for a long time. After that, no special care is needed, and the cutting can root quickly.)

If this method is used to propagate poinsettia, variegated Schefflera, Aucuba japonica and so on, the fastest root in 7 days, variegated Schefflera in 9 days, and rubber tree in 10 days all have root tips emerging, and they are thick and well developed. Aucuba japonica and others root a little more slowly, but within half a month root tips have formed.

This method is simple and easy, and the materials are widely available and low in price. Multiple layers can be placed in the container, saving space, and a relatively large number of flowers and trees can be propagated at one time. Interested friends can give it a try.

My unusual flower-growing tricks [Part two: The abuse method ~~ make your honeysuckle branches short and flowers abundant]

First, let me state that this method is suitable for potted cultivation, not for ground planting. What ground planting wants is vigorous luxuriance, able to provide vertical greening over a large area. Potted cultivation has different requirements: the region and pot space are limited, so it cannot be allowed to develop freely; the ornamental requirements are higher, requiring a better shape; most importantly, when flowering it cannot be as casual as ground planting, but requires concentrated and abundant blooms. The following method can help you achieve this:

1. Water restriction ~ Honeysuckle is a vine. Without intervention, its branches grow fast and long. In a pot, we can break the usual routine. When it sprouts in spring, do not water at night, water in the morning; do not water heavily, water lightly; make its physiological water use unable to meet the needs of excessive growth, so that new branches become shorter and more mature. Once branches mature, they bloom easily, and shortening reduces the distance between nodes, so flowering becomes concentrated and abundant.

2. Fertilizer restriction ~ Before flower buds form, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer or apply as little as possible, and apply relatively more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After the flower buds have basically formed and stem growth has basically ended, then apply an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer to create a situation of many flowers and large flowers.

3. Be lazy about repotting ~ That is, repot only once every 3-4 years. The purpose is not to let it sprout more new roots. With fewer new roots, its absorptive capacity is poorer, and combined with aging potting soil, it is very difficult for it to grow excessively, thus achieving the goals of controlling tree vigor, limiting branches, and making flowers bloom densely.

4. Pruning ~ Cut off vigorous buds, shorten long branches, cut the long and keep the short. Then place it in a spot with sufficient sunlight (half shade and half sun in summer) to prevent excessive growth due to insufficient light.

Through the above measures, you can make your honeysuckle have abundant flowers and short branches, with greater ornamental value. (Small seedlings are not included in this example, because they should be allowed to grow vigorously so they can bloom sooner.)

My unusual flower-growing tricks [Part three: Sesame oil prevents ants]

The insect world also has "herders," and those are ants. Ants like to enjoy the "honeydew" secreted by aphids, so they spare no effort in herding everywhere -- moving them onto various plants, while also serving as their obligate bodyguards and driving off the aphids' various natural enemies. In this way, our flowers and trees suffer. Below is a simple and easy method that can solve your urgent problem.

If your flower or tree is placed alone in one pot and does not touch other flowers or trees, you can apply sesame oil where the flowerpot contacts the ground.

If multiple pots of your flowers and trees are placed on a flower stand, you can apply sesame oil where the legs of the stand contact the ground. Ants generally enter the pot through the bottom hole, so you can also apply sesame oil at the bottom hole. In this way, everything is OK, the problem is completely solved, and you can rest easy. If you find an ant nest nearby, also drip sesame oil at the nest entrance, and the ants will not dare come out.

The "honeydew" secreted by aphids is fragrant and sweet to ants, but the likewise fragrant sesame oil is the ants' nemesis. If you still have doubts, you might as well give it a try.

My unusual flower-growing tricks [Part four: Carrying cuttings over a thousand miles]

Whenever you are on a business trip thousands of miles away, or touring a scenic tourist destination, have you ever seen rare flowers and plants that make your heart flutter? As a flower enthusiast, you surely also want to own one. Locally, you can layer or take cuttings. But in a distant place, how do you keep cuttings from losing water, and how do you bring them home smoothly? Below is a simple and easy method: carrying cuttings from a thousand miles away, moisture retention is a problem. Keeping them in a plastic bag can retain moisture, but it is not breathable, and sometimes the cuttings rot. To retain moisture and keep the cuttings fresh, you only need to buy a few fresh cucumbers, and the problem is solved. Cut the leaves off the branches, keep the leaf stalks, and insert them from the flowering end of the cucumber. This can both maintain the moisture of the cuttings and prevent them from rotting (because cucumber contains a component that kills bacteria). In this way, as long as the cucumber does not rot, the cuttings will be fine. No matter how far, a thousand miles or ten thousand miles, you can bring them home, and they will successfully survive.

My unusual flower-growing tricks [Part five: Cleverly washing old flowerpots]

After some time, people who grow flowers will have some old flowerpots left over: either because some flowers and trees died, or because small flowerpots remain after repotting. It is a pity to discard these old flowerpots, but if you continue to use them, cleaning is very troublesome (cleaning is necessary: first, to wash off the layer of white scale on the surface that hinders the breathing of flowers and trees; second, to remove insect eggs and miscellaneous bacteria; third, for appearance). Don't worry, below is a simple clever cleaning method:

Add a certain proportion of ferrous sulfate to a container full of water, then stack the old flowerpots in order of size, large ones at the bottom and small ones on top, and soak them together in the ferrous sulfate aqueous solution. After about three days, take them out and brush gently with a brush, and the dirt on the surface of the flowerpots can be washed completely clean. The reason is simple: the ferrous sulfate solution is slightly acidic, and the white scale on the pot edge is alkaline. When the two neutralize, cleaning becomes very convenient.

After using this method, the flowerpots can remain clean and attractive for a long time. Furthermore, the pots being slightly acidic is also beneficial to the growth of flowers and trees.

New flowerpots treated by this method can achieve the same preventive effect.

My unusual flower-growing tricks (Part six: Busy autumn sowing, the glycerin enema bottle helps you)

As everyone knows, plants have different forms and great differences, and their seeds are no exception. The best time for autumn sowing has arrived. Friends preparing for autumn sowing may be troubled by one problem: how to sow particularly tiny seeds very evenly -- neither crowded together nor leaving bare patches. Don't worry, the glycerin enema bottle comes to help you:

Take an empty glycerin enema bottle (if you do not have one, you can buy one, very cheap. The liquid inside can be poured out to use as a skin care product, with better effect than glycerin). Point the small end at the seeds, apply a little force with your hand, and the seeds will stick to the bottle mouth; then release your hand, and the seeds will fall exactly where you need them! By sucking and releasing like this, the speed is very fast, and spot sowing is completed smoothly.

One reminder: when you feel the bottle mouth is a little too large, you can scald it with boiling water to make the bottle mouth shrink a bit.

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part seven: [Bury quail eggs alive, fulfill your dream of lazy flower growing]

You want to grow flowers well, but find fertilizing troublesome, and even more want to stay away from the dirt and smell of fertilizer. Is there any good trick? Yes! Here is one method:

Buy a few quail eggs, first gently crack the small end, pierce the inner membrane with a toothpick, and when repotting and changing soil, place the quail egg with the small end facing up gently at a depth of 2 cm above the culture soil at the bottom of the pot, then normally fill the pot with soil above it.

Because the culture soil contains a large amount of organic matter, and the potting soil remains moist for a long time, as the temperature rises and fungi act, the egg liquid continuously decomposes and overflows from the fine cracks, turning into fertilizer for the flower and tree roots to absorb, thus very well meeting the needs of flower growth. Entering midsummer, most flowers and trees enter a vigorous growth period and need more fertilizer. This is also the period when bacteria are active, so egg fertilizer decomposition accelerates accordingly, ensuring the supply. One small quail egg can basically maintain fertility for 1-2 years. Generally speaking, using this method means no organic fertilizer is needed all year, but shortly after the egg fertilizer is applied and before it takes effect, an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer and so on can be applied. In this method, the process of raw egg fertilizer becoming mature is completed inside the eggshell, so there will be no situation of raw fertilizer burning roots. In addition, after the eggshell decomposes, it is also a very good calcium fertilizer.

(Note: The number of eggs depends on the size of the flowerpot. If placing one, it can be placed in the middle of the pot; if using two or more, they can be placed symmetrically, 2-4 cm from the pot edge. This trick is not suitable for orchids. It is more suitable for woody and herbaceous flowers, especially woody flowering and fruiting flowers.)

My unusual flower-growing tricks: Part eight [Toast with clivia -- the drunken flowering promotion method]

Clivia has glossy leaves and upright stems, with large red flowers that are dazzling; overall it also appears elegant and dignified, especially suitable for indoor tabletop placement, and most people like to keep a few pots at home. But there is often a situation like this: when bought, the flowers are in full bloom, but after blooming, it neither flowers nor grows leaves, and seems to become a stagnant seedling. Is there any way to change this situation? Yes, this is the drunken flowering promotion method:

The liquor should be baijiu, whether high-proof or low-proof does not matter. Yanghe Daqu is fine, Erguotou is also fine, and if you have the financial strength, Maotai is also welcome. After Qingming and before late autumn, pour a cup of baijiu into the clivia pot every few days. When pouring, be careful not to splash it on the plant. In this way, after seven or eight days, you will see the effect: flower scapes emerge, new leaves grow, and the stagnant seedling revives. If handled this way, the clivia will grow better and better, and the flowers it opens will resemble a torch.

Note: This method is very safe, so there is no need to worry about burning the clivia to death. But it has not been tested on other flowers and trees, so please use it with caution. If you have no experience, apply a small amount and leave a longer interval to ensure there is no risk. At the same time, after it takes effect, it can be temporarily stopped. For a 25CM pot, applying 3/1 or 4/1 of the small bowl we use for daily meals each time is enough, once every half a month to about 20 days, flexibly adjusted according to the plant's growth. Of course, if the clivia is growing well, there is no need for this extra step.

My unusual flower-growing tricks: Part nine [Two small methods to promote flowering and prolong the ornamental period of narcissus]

Narcissus has won people's affection with its graceful bearing and pure, jade-like charm, accompanying everyone to welcome the beautiful spring. Therefore, during New Year's Day and the Spring Festival, it is a fine choice for decorating the living room and desk. However, some people grow narcissus that, although lush and green, simply do not bloom; or they bloom but soon wither. Are there methods to promote flowering and prolong the flowering period? Yes!

1. Soapy water promotes flowering

Narcissus contains a plant alkaloid that can promote good plant growth and development. Soapy water is an alkaline solution. After narcissus absorbs it, the plant alkaloid in its body increases, thus enabling vegetative growth to rapidly transform into reproductive growth. In this way, an appropriate amount of soapy water plays a role in promoting flowering.

2. Aspirin prolongs the ornamental period

Crush one to two aspirin into small particles and sprinkle them into the narcissus pot. The salicylic acid component in aspirin can promote flower bud differentiation and flowering in plants, thus making narcissus flowers bloom larger and more brightly colored, and prolonging the ornamental period.

Putting some salt in the narcissus pot can likewise promote flowering and make the flowers last longer. In addition, after narcissus blooms, placing it in a relatively cool environment also works well.

My unusual flower-growing tricks: Part ten [For spring sowing, first mix the seeds with oil]

Spring sowing is approaching, and everyone may again encounter the following problems: some flower seeds sprout a few days after sowing; some flowers such as clivia, cyclamen and asparagus fern germinate more slowly, only showing themselves after much urging; and some are awaited in vain and simply do not sprout at all. Is there any way to improve this? Please try the method of mixing flower seeds with oil --

Specific method: first soak the seeds to be sown in warm water at about 35 degrees Celsius for 24 hours, then take out the flower seeds, wrap them in a dry cloth and wring out the external water; then mix the flower seeds with some clean cooking oil (such as soybean oil, rapeseed oil and sesame oil, etc.), and next you can sow them in the usual way.

Do not underestimate this small method. It can make seeds that are difficult to germinate sprout about 20 days earlier, and the sprouts are strong and grow quickly; in addition, it also has a very good effect on increasing the germination rate.

My unusual flower-growing tricks: Part eleven [New methods for air permeability in porcelain pots and plastic pots]

Clay pots are breathable and comfortable, but less attractive; porcelain pots are sturdy and beautiful, and plastic pots are light, handy and cheap, but not very breathable. In short, all have some shortcomings. In fact, with a little thought, you can turn shortcomings into advantages~

Before repotting in early spring, first prepare some foam plastic (there is a lot in electrical appliance packaging boxes) and cut it into small pieces the size of tangyuan. When repotting, use a piece of thicker paper to form a ring according to the inner diameter of the flowerpot, then place it in the flowerpot (leave a certain gap between the paper ring and the flowerpot). Next, fill the gap between the two with the plastic fragments. Inside the paper ring, fill soil and plant as usual. In this way, the entire repotting task is completed.

With plastic fragments along the inner edge of porcelain pots and plastic pots, their air permeability is greatly increased, which has a very good effect on the growth and development of flowers. (If plastic granules are used at the bottom of the pot, that also works.)

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part twelve: Broken bricks and tiles grow flowers with even brighter blooms

Broken bricks and tiles grow flowers with even brighter blooms. If you do not believe it, try it.

Growing flowers in the city, soil is very precious. Some people continue to use old soil after repotting, but it is actually far inferior to broken bricks and tiles.

Broken bricks and tiles are easy to obtain, available everywhere. The specific method --

Break waste bricks and tiles into fragments about 0.2-0.5 cm in diameter. When planting flowers, place the smaller and powdery pieces near the plant roots, and place the larger fragments at the bottom of the pot or in other parts. Other practices are the same as planting with soil.

Growing flowers with broken bricks and tiles has advantages such as air permeability, water retention and fertilizer retention.

Because broken bricks and tiles have many tiny gaps and especially strong adsorption capacity, they can quickly absorb applied water and fertilizer, playing a role in water and fertilizer retention; secondly, because bricks and tiles have been fired, their texture is hard but not solid, and they have the characteristic of not dissolving in water. The many tiny gaps inside can be retained for a long time, which is beneficial to the circulation of air in the soil.

Through experiments, pomegranate, Aglaia odorata and Pyracantha grown with broken bricks and tiles have well-developed root systems, large flowers, many fruits and long flowering periods.

(Because broken bricks and tiles themselves contain fewer nutrients, fertilization should be done more times than with soil cultivation.)

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part thirteen: Force-feeding to fatten and grow roses

The force-feeding method for fattening and growing roses is implemented for large rose plants because the pot soil is limited and the nutrients it contains are difficult to meet the growth needs of roses. It can make the roses you grow large, vivid and especially spirited. Interested friends might as well give it a try --

1. In early spring, before roses are about to sprout, pot them or repot them, and apply sufficient fermented base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot.

2. The second step is to promote budding. During budding, apply 1-2 times of solid nitrogen fertilizer such as urea or ammonium sulfate. Be sure to mix with water and apply strictly according to the proportions in the instructions. Do not make it too concentrated, otherwise it will burn the roots. About one week after application, dozens of tender buds can densely appear. At this time, appropriately thin the buds according to the plant size and shaping requirements.

3. The third step, which is also the most important step, is force-feeding fertilization:

1. After sprouting, first fully strengthen the supply of nitrogen fertilizer to make the new buds robust.

Water with diluted fully fermented soybean cake liquid and so on, and spray the leaf surfaces and tender branches with a 1/1000 urea solution. Alternate the two once a week;

2. When the new buds grow to about 2 cun, begin switching to fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus and potassium. Apply diluted fish intestine fertilizer or other phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to the potting soil, and spray the leaf surfaces and branch tips with 1/1000 monopotassium phosphate, likewise alternating once a week. In this way, before long a flower bud will appear at the end of each branch. For even distribution of flower buds, appropriately thin the buds; 3. Afterward, still alternate once every other week with fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus and potassium to favor the next batch of blooms. During this period, apply nitrogen fertilizer once about every month.

Explanation: Apply organic fertilizer to the potting soil and inorganic fertilizer to the leaf surfaces. Do not arbitrarily increase the concentration; when heavy rain occurs, avoid or shield from rain to prevent loss of potting soil and nutrients; it is best to add a certain proportion of coal cinder ash to the potting soil, which is both breathable and has the function of adsorbing nutrients, and releases them relatively evenly.

——

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part fourteen: Another way to increase humidity -- escorting balcony azaleas

Azaleas are delicate and charming. When they bloom, a scene of brilliant spring color makes people stop and admire. But to grow azaleas well on a balcony, the humidity problem is a headache. Generally speaking, the climate on a balcony is always drier than outdoors, but azaleas need relatively high humidity, which forms a difficult contradiction: either the buds are hard to open, or the red fades and the fragrance disappears.

In fact, conditions can be created, and azaleas can also be grown well on a balcony ---

Find a shallow tray or other vessel slightly larger than the potted azalea, place two wooden strips 3 or 4 cm high at intervals in the tray, then set the azalea pot on the wooden strips, and add water to the shallow tray. The water height should be level with the bottom of the azalea pot or just slightly touching it. When the water gradually decreases and the wooden strips are exposed, wait two or three days before adding water back to the original level.

The reason this method can effectively increase humidity is that the shallow tray has standing water year-round or intermittently, equivalent to installing a simple humidifier with lasting upward transpiration. The higher the temperature, the faster the transpiration, which exactly matches the azalea's humidity requirements at different periods. Secondly, water slowly moistens the entire pot wall from the bottom up, keeping it often in a good state of being neither too dry nor too wet, protecting the potting soil and root system from the effects of dry air.

This method can be used with confidence, and the azalea will not have root rot. Because water seeps in from the bottom of the pot, its depth cannot exceed the depth of the shallow tray below; at the same time, the moistening by water is completed by slowly rising, and the amount of water is limited. Moreover, intermittent water supply gives the azalea a chance to adjust the soil air and humidity.

This method can enable azaleas to grow robustly and bloom normally just as they do on the ground.

Notes: 1. When repotting azaleas, it is best to put some foam plastic fragments and other materials at the bottom of the pot, which is safer.

2. The amount of watering should be appropriately reduced. The water given at one time is about 2/3 that for ordinary potted flowers.

3. During high-temperature periods, combined with measures such as frequently misting the azaleas, the effect will be better.

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part fifteen: Rapid single-node propagation of ivy and honeysuckle

There are many propagation methods: sowing, cuttings, grafting and so on, each with advantages and disadvantages. But there is one method that is simple and easy, and the number propagated in one operation is several times that of cuttings, and it sprouts quickly with a 100% survival rate. What method is that? That method is called -- rapid single-node propagation.

This method is most suitable for our homes. If conditions allow ground planting, the effect is even better. The propagation varieties suitable for this method are honeysuckle, ivy, winter jasmine, golden pothos and Monstera deliciosa, etc. In addition, Syngonium podophyllum, Tradescantia pallida, Tradescantia zebrina, forsythia and so on also have good results.

Take ivy as an example: when repotting or potting, plant it at one end of a long pot more than 40 cm long, and guide the branches to develop toward the other side. Then bend iron wire into small n-shaped pieces and insert one between every two nodes of the branch, loosely holding the branch in place. After that, carry out routine care.

By early summer, use a sharp knife to cut the branch between every two nodes, so that each node carries one leaf. In this way, each node can quickly sprout and grow luxuriantly. After that, at any time, dig them up and pot them, and you can get many independent small plants. If this trick does not cut between the nodes, some varieties can also be made into connected-root style bonsai...

Key points: 1. The potting soil must be soft and loose. 2. The branches must contact the soil. 3. Choose varieties that root at every node as described above.

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part sixteen: Cut roots in sections to give old trees new life

It is said that all things in heaven and earth have a certain lifespan, and plants are certainly no exception. Although we cannot change this trend, through certain methods we can still extend their lives. Below is one method ~~~

The so-called lifeblood means that life lies in the roots, and this is especially true for plants. When the roots are strong, the plant is vigorous; when the roots age, its life is nearing its end. Therefore, if we want to extend the life of plants, we must think about the roots -- during the spring growth period, scrape away the potting soil, cut off 1/3 of the entire root system, then cover it with potting soil again. New fine roots will soon grow from the places where old roots were cut. Treat it the same way next year and the third year. After three years, it is equivalent to the entire root system having been renewed. Compared with old roots, new roots have significantly stronger ability to absorb water and fertilizer, so it is only natural for the old tree to regain its youth.

In addition, after cutting off old roots, 1/3 of the soil can be replaced with new soil. After three years, the potting soil is equivalent to having been completely renewed, and the trouble of repotting is also avoided, achieving two goals at once.

If the old stump still has some vitality, it can also be shortened in combination with shaping, so that it sends out new branches.

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part seventeen [Aglaia odorata, blooming and fragrant every day]

Aglaia odorata has glossy leaves and remains evergreen all year. When it blooms, it is richly fragrant, and the small golden-yellow flowers like grains of rice are also very eye-catching against the green leaves. If cared for properly, it is no problem for Aglaia odorata to bloom 5 times a year. So can it be made to bloom and be fragrant every day? There is a way --

Generally speaking, after Aglaia odorata blooms once, it needs to "rest" for a period before blooming again, because it must accumulate nutrients to prepare for the next flowering. So its flowering appears intermittent. If we want it to bloom every day, we must artificially satisfy its nutrient needs, that is, by appropriately thinning buds to reduce the nutrients consumed by each flowering. Specifically, when Aglaia odorata is full of buds for the first time (or second time) in early spring, first thin the buds on 1-2 branches, then after another 4-5 days thin the buds on another 1-2 branches, and so on repeatedly and continuously. When accumulated flower and bud thinning reaches more than 6-7 times, and the branches that have been thinned reach more than 60-70% of all branches, then all the branches of Aglaia odorata can bloom in turn, achieving the goal of blooming and being fragrant every day. According to the procedure, branches that have not been thinned bloom first, and after about 5-10 days, the branches thinned the first time bloom next, then flowering proceeds according to the order of thinning. In total, one pot of Aglaia odorata can let you smell its fragrance every day for 7-8 months of the entire growth period. (Because its fragrance is strong, thinning some is no harm.)

Key points: 1. Water, fertilizer and light must keep up. 2. The plant must not be too small, with at least about 10 branches.

My unusual flower-growing tricks, part eighteen -- Try it, feeding fat makes epiphyllum bloom

People each have their own hobbies, and plants are no exception. For example, clivia loves to drink liquor, while epiphyllum is fond of fat. During the growth period, often feeding it some fat can not only make its plant deep green and glossy, but also enable it to bloom as many as 5-6 times, with large and numerous flowers.

The specific operation is very simple: soak the fat in boiling water to remove salt; or boil the waste lard from pork belly in water, then let it cool.

Then use a suitable tool to poke several holes in the epiphyllum pot, 2-3 cm in diameter. After that, cut the fat or waste lard into tablet-sized pieces, pour them into the holes, and cover the surface with about 3 cm of soil.

Key points: 1. Adding a little monopotassium phosphate and mixing it in gives better results.

2. Generally, a flower pot with a diameter of 15 cm needs only two holes inserted, and a 25 cm pot needs three holes. And so on.

By this reasoning, the fertilizer effect can supply what a night-blooming cereus needs for a year of growth.

3. It must be cooked thoroughly and chopped up, otherwise it decomposes too slowly and easily attracts ants and insects.

4. Pouring in the waste oil collected from the grease cup inside a range hood also has a very obvious effect.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 19——Spraying Flowers with Beer Kills Two Birds with One Stone

It goes without saying that flower growers love dealing with all kinds of flowers. But what you deal with is not only flowers, but also all kinds of pests, haha, even though you do not like them one bit.

Among pests, aphids and red spider mites are still fairly easy to handle; spray the right pesticide twice and they are basically ok. But scale insects are more troublesome. They have a protective layer——a waxy shell——so spraying pesticide has little effect on them; they really seem impenetrable. So, besides manual pest removal (brushing them off), is there any simpler and more effective method? Yes.

After discovering scale insects, do not panic. Prepare a bottle of beer, pour some out and dilute it with water at a ratio of 6 water to 1 beer, and spray the plant once, making sure to spray every part as much as possible. Check carefully the next day. If the insects turn reddish-brown and fall off at a touch, then they have certainly breathed their last. If there are still live ones, spray once more. Generally, after spraying three times in a row (three days), the problem can basically be solved.

Principle: After beer is sprayed, it forms a sealing film on the insects' bodies, causing them to suffocate to death. However, it is also possible that they die from drunkenness. Of course, this point still needs entomologists to prove.

In addition, beer is also a very good leaf fertilizer. Sprayed often, the plant can grow full of vitality and look especially spirited. The ratio should be thinner than when treating pests: 8 water to 1 beer is enough. If you are interested, you might as well give it a try.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 20——Four Watering Methods

Watering is the first hurdle that flower growers must pass, and it is also an unavoidable one. Although watering looks simple, there is actually a lot of knowledge in it. Many beginners' flowers are ruined at this watering hurdle. Regarding watering, the so-called "water when dry, stop when wet"; water more during the growing season and less during dormancy; water more for small pots and less for large pots, and so on, everyone understands relatively well, so I will not say more. Below I will only introduce several special watering methods——

1. Sand column method---preventing potting soil from compacting

When potting or repotting flowers, first stand several hollow tubes in the pot (bamboo tubes, plastic pipes, iron pipes, etc. are all fine), then fill soil around them and press firm. Next, pour coarse sand into the tubes, with the upper ends level with the soil surface. Finally, gently pull out the hollow tubes, and sand columns will form in the pot. Later, when watering, water only spreads outward through the sand columns. This prevents the soil from compacting, with no adverse side effects.

Note: The tubes cannot be placed in the exact center; leave space for planting the flowers.

2. Round-trip method---avoiding half-watering

Half-watering means the water does not soak through: the top is very wet, while the bottom is still dry. If this is done often, how could the flowers and trees not die? There are several reasons: inexperience; the potting soil being too compacted; not repotting for a long time so the roots become tangled, and so on. The solution is as follows: if you have many flowers, you can water them one by one as usual, without worrying about whether they are soaked through. After watering them all, water them again from beginning to end, and a few can even be watered a third time. In this way, half-watering can basically be eliminated. Because after the first round of watering, even if it did not soak through, the potting soil has already become moist and softened to a certain extent, so after some time, the second round of water is relatively easy to absorb.

Note: There is no need for this if the potting soil is loose. If you do not have many flowers, you can do some other things after watering and water again after a while.

3. Sitting-pot method---preventing broom root rot

Broom is very beautiful. When the flowers first open they resemble butterflies, and after opening they look like golden sparrows fluttering gracefully. It can also be made into bonsai, so many people love to grow it. But in recent years fewer and fewer people grow it, because it very easily suffers root rot and dies if you are not careful. There is one method that is very effective at preventing its root rot, namely: the sitting-pot method. Put some water in a container, place the potted broom in it, and when the soil surface looks wet, it has been soaked through; then take it out.

Note: Also follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet.

4. Noon water---making jasmine more fragrant

Watering jasmine at noon can make the jasmine more fragrant when it blooms. The ancients already summed it up: "If you want jasmine fragrance, give one ladle of water at noon." But watering under the strong midday sun is a taboo in flower growing. The reason is just like how a person cannot immediately take a cold shower when overheated. To water flowers at noon without mishap, the premise is to first put the water under the sun to warm up, and water when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature. In this way it is ok and safe.

Reminder: Other plants have not been tested, so please use cautiously.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 21——Old Loofah Helps Your Leaves Stay Green and Flowers Beautiful

The autumn wind rises, and the harvest season has arrived again. The loofah vines gradually wither like an old person's arms, and the leaves tremble in the wind, while only old loofahs still hang heavily one by one.

In the past, villagers used them to wash bowls and scrub pots. Now no one uses them, and they seem to have become waste. Have they really become waste? No!

After picking the old loofah, wash it clean and dry it. When repotting and changing soil or potting flowers, cut it into small pieces about 5 cm. Spread a layer of loofah stem at one third of the depth of the bottom soil, fill soil above it, then spread another layer at two thirds of the potting soil, add more soil, and afterward proceed normally.

Note: Before cutting, first lay it flat on the ground and smash the loofah seeds with a hammer.

(This method can effectively improve the potting soil, making it loose and preventing compaction. Moreover, the loofah fibers and seeds slowly decompose in the potting soil and are a very good slow-release nitrogen fertilizer, so potted flowers all have green leaves and beautiful blooms.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 22——Wonderful Uses of Sawdust Turn Waste into Treasure

During ordinary home renovation, afterward sawdust is often treated as garbage and simply dumped away. In fact, sawdust is very useful to us flower growers. We can absolutely turn it into treasure~~

1. Cuttings: Sawdust used as a cutting medium for roses, gardenias, pomegranates and other plants has an obvious effect, far superior to soil cuttings or water cuttings, and roots grow quickly, are numerous, and the plants are robust. There is an even greater advantage: after the plant takes root and survives, the block of sawdust can be moved together into the potting soil, so the roots are not damaged, the plant easily establishes, and flowers and fruit appear earlier. Even for varieties that are relatively difficult to root, such as rhododendrons, I have tried successfully, and even inch-long tender tips of crabapple can root quickly. The reason is that sawdust has better water retention and air permeability than soil, with sufficient oxygen.

Specific method: Put the sawdust into a flower pot, then pour boiling water through it several times to thoroughly disinfect it. After the temperature drops, squeeze out excess water (so that the moist sawdust does not drip when squeezed by hand). Then you can begin cuttings, using the same method as soil cuttings. After inserting, keep the sawdust moist and they will quickly take root and survive. This method can be carried out in all four seasons, except in winter it must be placed on a sunny windowsill with heating indoors.

2. Used as wrapping medium for air layering: Because sawdust is loose in texture and its moisture can be controlled, it is likewise superior to other media, roots faster, is relatively safer, and has a high survival rate.

Specific method: After girdling the plant, fill the plastic bag wrapped around it with a medium made of half moist sawdust and half loess, then tie both ends tightly.

3. Used as fertilizer: Making fertilizer with moist sawdust is nutritionally complete, economical, convenient, clean and hygienic.

Specific method: Mix moist sawdust with an appropriate amount of inorganic fertilizers such as superphosphate, potassium phosphate or urea. It is even better if organic fertilizer is mixed in. Put it into a plastic bag and tie the opening tightly. Turn it over once every two weeks to speed up even decomposition. In spring and autumn, it can be used after about six weeks.

Note: When using it, mix in 50% soil.

The above lists several points, and the rest need not be repeated. In fact, the uses of sawdust are not limited to these. Everyone can use their brains and give it a try.

(Oh, I forgot an important point, now let me add it~~Sawdust must be fermented before use.)

When I make fertilizer with sawdust, I add an appropriate amount of rapeseed cake (soybean cake is the same) obtained from fish keepers; I also add some chicken and duck manure (last year I used cow manure), then add a little water and let it ferment. After decomposing, dry it until half-dry before use. The sawdust fertilizer made by the above method has relatively complete nutrients. It is better to make it in spring and summer, because higher temperatures ferment faster.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 23——If You Want Flowers and Trees to Do Well in Winter, Leave Some Grass in the Pot

The reason I say "leave" rather than "plant" is that in our pots there are often some wild grasses that come uninvited and grow exuberantly, enjoying themselves immensely. The reaction of ordinary flower lovers is to be so annoyed that their teeth itch, and they are determined to remove them, the so-called pulling up weeds by the roots.

This trick of mine is not really strange. It is because flower lovers often ask that in winter it is difficult to judge watering. Roots rot, leaves fall, and the little flower's life is hard to save. Is there any simple method that can let everyone quickly grasp the watering standard? Yes. Please show mercy and leave a few wild grasses in the pot. Pulling up weeds by the roots is not acceptable.

Generally speaking, most plant varieties are in a dormant or semi-dormant state in winter, so they do not need much water, and the soil only needs to be slightly moist. However, many flower lovers, as soon as they see the soil surface turn pale, anxiously water, thinking they may dry the flowers out. Actually it is not so: when the soil surface is pale, the middle is still very moist. In this way, it would be strange if the flowers and trees did not develop problems!

Leave some grass in the pot, but not just any grass: leave those green grasses that stand cold-resistant through winter. And not the more the better either; just three to five of them are enough.

When should you water? When should you not water yet? Look at the grass! If the grass is still standing green and lush, do not water; if the wild grass wilts and loses spirit, water immediately. The standard is just that simple!

Leaving some grass in the pot has more benefits than these: it can protect against cold in winter, protect against sun in summer, and also decorate the pot surface——just think, what is nice about bare soil? In addition, when loosening the soil, bury the grass in the soil with one spade and it becomes green manure, enough to compensate for the loss caused by wild grass competing with potted flowers for fertilizer.

I have used this method for watering for more than a year, and it has worked every time. If you believe it, you can try it too.

Note: 1. Plants still flowering and fruiting in winter are not covered by this.

2. This method is also applicable in other seasons.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 24——Propagating Emerald Bamboo into a Forest by Burying Nodes

"Better to eat without meat than to live without bamboo." The ancients were like this, and people today are the same. In modern homes, for greening around residences or in the environment, emerald bamboo is also one of the indispensable varieties. Planting trees often requires "ten years to grow a tree," while planting bamboo can often create a clear, shaded, evergreen environment in just one or two years. On a night with bright moonlight, the swaying bamboo shadows outside the window add infinite refined pleasure.

Planting a few tall bamboo stems in a pot and adding one or two ornamental stones is also a beloved desk item in the hearts of many flower growers.

Bamboo generally uses propagation with rhizomes, and a few are also grown from seed. This propagation method of mine is relatively rare (my cousin taught me), but the effect is excellent——simple and easy to do, with a high survival rate. Bamboo lovers might as well give it a try......

In early spring during rainy overcast weather, choose a mother bamboo with plump bud scales, and saw it off between two nodes (that is, keep one node scar in the middle); then fill both ends of the bamboo tube with moist fine sand, filling it full and pressing it firm, then seal both ends of the bamboo tube with clay. This is the first step.

Next, choose loose, water-permeable sandy loam. According to the thickness of the bamboo tube, dig a trench about 10 cm deep, place the prepared bamboo tube flat in the trench and bury it with soil, press it slightly firm, then water thoroughly. In this way it is done. Remember when burying the node to face the bud scales upward, and absolutely do not put it upside down.

Bamboo nodes can grow tender shoots in about 25-30 days. If making bonsai, pot them during the rainy season.

Key points~~1. To cultivate a bamboo forest, choose thick bamboo; to cultivate potted plants, choose thin varieties.

2. When sawing the bamboo tube, be careful not to let it split, so as not to injure the bud scales.

3. Water according to the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet.

4. After burying, it is best to cover with some bamboo branches or dry grass to block part of the sunlight.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 25——Homemade Rooting Agents Root Quickly and Abundantly

The weather is gradually warming, the ground temperature is rising, and the good season for cuttings has arrived again. There are many cutting methods, and generally people like soil cuttings or water cuttings. But everyone's operation methods differ; in addition, plant varieties differ, and rooting may be easy or difficult, which makes survival rates vary. In order to properly solve this problem, before taking cuttings everyone likes to use rooting agents such as naphthalene acetic acid. This is indeed effective, and the rooting survival rate also improves somewhat. But if the place is remote and goods are out of stock, what should you do if you cannot buy them for a while? Do not worry. Let me introduce several homemade rooting agents for you. No need to buy them with money, and the effect is not at all worse than bought ones——

(1) Phosphate fertilizer solution~~As said above, rooting agents such as naphthalene acetic acid are actually a kind of rooting hormone. In fact, phosphate fertilizer solution has the same effect. Because "phosphorus," this substance, can effectively promote plant cell and tissue growth and development, and promote plant wound healing and rooting.

Specific method: Before cutting, first dilute the phosphate fertilizer solution with water at a ratio of 7 water to 3 fertilizer, then soak the pretreated cuttings (root ends) in the fertilizer solution, with the submerged part making up 1/3 of the cutting. After 2-3 hours, take them out and rinse clean with clear water, then cut as usual.

For common varieties such as camellias and roses, using this method for cuttings can make them root 10-22 days earlier, with well-developed roots and vigorous growth.

(2) White sugar solution~~It is also a very good rooting agent. Many people have tested it, and the effect is obvious.

Specific method: First melt white sugar with hot water at a ratio of 9 water to 1 sugar. After the sugar water cools, soak the prepared cuttings in it. Take them out after about 40-60 minutes, rinse the cut ends clean with clear water, and use a sharp knife to cut off part of the cut end. Then they can be cut as usual.

After the above treatment, the survival rate is much higher than ordinary cuttings. Even for relatively difficult-to-root plants such as rhododendrons and camellias, it can reach more than 90%.

(3) Willow soaking liquid~~Willow liquid is a very good plant growth agent. Its liquid is rich in growth hormones, so it can survive whether planted upright or upside down, and its vitality is especially strong.

Specific method: Take some willow branches and leaves, smash the branches with a hammer, then soak them in water. After one day, remove the branches and leaves, and the water is willow soaking liquid.

The next day, soak the cuttings in it for about 1 day. (Longer is also fine; willow liquid contains components that inhibit bacterial reproduction.) Then cut as usual.

Roots develop quickly and abundantly, and the plants grow robustly.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 26~~"Amphibious" Cutting Method

Cuttings are a simple and easy propagation method that everyone likes to use. At present it is also the good season for cuttings, so these several posts of mine are all related to cuttings. I recommend them to everyone, hoping they can be of some help.

The two most commonly used cutting methods are soil cuttings and water cuttings, each with advantages and disadvantages. But both have one difficulty~~after rooting, they must be moved into pots. Because new roots are relatively delicate, and some people are not very skilled in operation, efforts are often wasted and success slips away at the last moment. This is very disheartening.

The cutting method introduced below does not require moving into a pot after rooting, thus greatly improving the survival rate of cuttings. I call it: "amphibious cutting method."

The method is as follows~~

1. Find a flower pot of suitable size, and first seal the bottom hole with melted wax liquid. (Other materials can also be used, but it must be able to be poked open with one push when needed.)

2. Put about 3/5 cutting soil at the bottom of the container, then spread about 1/5 river sand on top to fix the cuttings. Then gently pour in clear water until it is about 1 cm above the sand surface.

3. Insert the cuttings. Cutting length can be about 8-15 cm. Flatten the lower end with a sharp knife (a horseshoe shape or flat surface is fine), so it is less likely to rot. Insert the cutting about 1/3 into the yellow sand, and remove green leaves below the water surface. The cuttings should not be too crowded; generally 1-3 plants are more suitable.

4. After inserting, it can be placed in a full-sun environment (cuttings taken in midsummer are better placed in scattered light), but the sand surface must not lack water. Change the clear water once every 10 days to half a month to ensure the water quality remains clean.

5. Roots form in about 25 to 45 days. At that time, poke open the sealed bottom hole of the pot from below and drain the water completely. After a few days, when the potting soil is dry, water again and enter the normal management stage.

Notes: a. Choose moisture-tolerant varieties, such as gardenia, Buddhist pine, snow-in-summer and other plants.

b. The potting soil should use plain soil (without fertilizer).

c. If you cannot confirm whether the cuttings have rooted, you can pull them up to observe. If white new roots appear on the callus tissue, you can drain the water and switch to dry cultivation.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 27——Water Cuttings of Daphne A, B, C

Daphne is an excellent flower among flowers. It is full of vitality all year round, with verdant branches and leaves that seem about to drip green; when it blooms, it sends fragrance far and fills the room with spring. It is a famous precious flower in season during the Spring Festival. Among them, the golden-edged daphne has leaves like green edged with gold, and the flower color changes from white to purple to red. It is very bright, and the fragrance is extremely strong. It can be called excellent in color, fragrance, posture and charm, and has been listed as a treasure since ancient times.

If we want to propagate golden-edged daphne at home, we generally like to use the cutting method. This method is not bad, but the survival rate cannot be very well guaranteed, and it takes a relatively long time. By comparison, water cuttings are much superior to soil cuttings~~

Water cuttings can be done from April to September, and now is the best time. Because when the temperature is low, rooting takes a long time, or they may even fail to root and rot; when the temperature is too high, a large amount of bacteria breed in the water, which is also unfavorable for the branches to root. The current cutting temperature is just suitable.

Specific method: Cut off branches grown in the current year, remove the lower leaves, keep 3-4 leaves at the upper part, and cut the insertion end into a horseshoe shape with a sharp knife to help produce more roots. Then find a suitable bottle, fill it with clear water, and insert the lower part of the cutting. Note that the water bottle should be placed in a place with scattered light, not in sunlight, and not too shady. Change the clear water once every three or four days.

After water cutting, at the current temperature, roots can form in about 25-30 days. If before water cutting you soak the cuttings in naphthalene acetic acid rooting liquid for 4 hours, roots can form one week earlier.

Notes: 1. If there are many branches, you can tie them into a bundle and insert them.

2. When roots grow to 3-4 cm, they can be potted. Be careful when potting and do not break the roots.

3. After potting cuttings in the same year, they will not send out new shoots that year, so there is no need to fertilize. By around the next Spring Festival, the young plants can bloom, and after flowering they can be fertilized normally.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 28——Upside-Down Cutting of Night-Blooming Cereus

The night-blooming cereus has large and beautiful flowers, with delicate and eye-catching colors, and it is robust and easy to grow. Many flower lovers want to have a pot. The common trick for home propagation of night-blooming cereus is cuttings, but many flower lovers report that the survival rate of cuttings is not high, and if you are not careful the cuttings rot, so cuttings for many years are labor lost. Why do night-blooming cereus cuttings easily rot? Because its fleshy stems are relatively thick, and the cut end is extremely sensitive to soil moisture——too wet and the cutting easily rots, too dry and the branch shrivels, becomes thin and weak, and seems about to die. Even the cut ends of branches that have been rooted for a long time may still rot if you are not careful, wasting all previous efforts. To solve this problem, there is a clever method, namely upside-down cutting.

The method is very simple: cut off a 10-15 cm cutting with a sharp knife (the part with a leaf tip at the upper end), then insert it upside down into the soil, with the buried depth about 6-8 cm. Because it is inserted upside down, the cut end is exposed outside. At the current temperature, roots can form and it can survive in about 20 days, and new branches can sprout and grow in one and a half months. At this point, it can be safely transferred to normal management.

Notes: 1. Be careful when watering or spraying, and do not spray the upward-facing cut end.

2. There is no need to control water; from the start, follow watering when dry and stopping when wet.

3. The cutting medium need not use sand or plain soil; it can be cut directly into fertile, loose soil.

4. Cut and insert immediately; the cuttings do not need to be dried in the shade.

5. The section of the cutting from the new roots to the old part will naturally shrink and dry up later, and new branches will replace it.

Some unusual flower-growing tricks for reference only

Some unusual flower-growing tricks for reference only

These are some unusual flower-growing tricks seen online. Friends who are interested might as well give them a try.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, Part 1: Soilless Cuttings~Wrapped in Soft Paper

I will teach you a simple and easy cutting method. No soil, no water, just a few sheets of paper. The specific operation method is as follows:
1. Take a sheet of soft paper with strong water absorption (toilet paper, etc.), and first wrap the bottom of the cutting that has been cut into a slanted opening. The thickness should be such that after the soft paper absorbs water thoroughly, the slanted cut surface can still be seen. Do not make it too thick, so that changes such as wound healing and rooting can be directly observed, and it also has good air permeability. This point is crucial.
2. Use soft paper cut to a suitable size to wrap the stem as much as possible, but expose the leaves and buds. The wrapping thickness should be enough to ensure the soft paper does not dry out completely before the cutting roots.
3. After wrapping, place the water-soaked cutting in a container without a bottom hole, tie the pot opening tightly with plastic film to retain moisture, and place it in a ventilated environment without direct light. In this way, your operation is complete, and after rooting you only need to pot it.
(Note: After the cutting is wrapped, if the thickness of the stem wrapping is twice the stem or slightly thicker, the soft paper can be kept from drying out completely for a long time. After that, no special care is needed, and the cutting can root quickly.)
If this method is used to cut poinsettia, variegated ivy, aucuba and others, the fastest roots appear in 7 days; variegated ivy in 9 days; rubber tree in 10 days, all with root tips emerging, and thick and well-developed. Aucuba roots slightly more slowly, but within half a month root tips have formed.
This method is simple and easy to do, with widely available materials and low cost. Multiple layers can be placed in the container, saving space, and a relatively large number of flowers and trees can be propagated at one time. Interested friends can give it a try.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks [Part 2：Abuse Method~~Make Your Honeysuckle Branches Short and Flowers Abundant

First, let me state clearly that this method is suitable for potted plants, not for ground planting. What ground planting wants is vigorous luxuriance, able to provide three-dimensional greening over a large area. Potted plants have different requirements: the area and pot space are limited, so they cannot be allowed to develop freely; the ornamental requirements are higher, requiring a better shape; most importantly, when flowering it cannot be as casual as ground planting, but requires concentrated flowers and abundant blooming. The following method can help you achieve this:

1. Water reduction ~ Honeysuckle (Japanese honeysuckle) is a vine; without intervention, its branches grow fast and long. In a pot, we can break the usual routine: when it sprouts in spring, do not water in the evening, water in the morning; do not give a heavy watering, give a light one; this keeps its physiological water supply from meeting the needs of vigorous growth, so the new branches become shorter and mature. Once the branches mature, they bloom easily, and shortening reduces the distance between nodes, so the flowers become concentrated and lush.

2. Fertilizer restriction ~ Before flower buds form, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer or apply as little as possible, and apply relatively more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Once the flower buds have basically formed and stem growth has basically ended, then apply some nitrogen fertilizer in moderation, so that it produces more and larger flowers.

3. Lazy repotting ~ That is, repot only once every 3-4 years. The aim is to keep it from sprouting more new roots; with fewer new roots, its absorption capacity is poorer, and combined with aged potting soil, it is very hard for it to grow vigorously, thus achieving the goal of controlling the tree's vigor, limiting branches, and making the flowers bloom densely.

4. Pruning ~ Cut away vigorous buds, shorten long branches, cut the long and keep the short. Then place it in a spot with plenty of sunlight (half shade and half sun in summer), to prevent it from growing vigorously due to insufficient light.

Through the above measures, you can make your honeysuckle bloom profusely with short branches and greater ornamental value. (Small seedlings are not covered by this; let them grow vigorously so they bloom sooner.)

My odd flower-growing trick number three: sesame oil to prevent ants

The insect world also has "herders," namely ants. Ants like to enjoy the "honeydew" secreted by aphids, so they tirelessly herd them everywhere - moving them onto various plants, and at the same time serving as their unpaid bodyguards, driving off the aphids' various natural enemies. And so, our flowers and trees.

My odd flower-growing trick number four: Bringing cuttings from a thousand li away

Whenever you are on a business trip thousands of li from home, or touring a scenic resort with beautiful scenery, have you ever seen rare and exotic flowers and plants that made your heart flutter? As a flower enthusiast, you surely want to have one too. Locally, you can layer or take cuttings. But in a distant place, how do you keep a cutting from losing water, and how do you bring it home smoothly? Here is a simple and easy method: Bringing cuttings from a thousand li away, keeping them moist is a problem. Storing them in a plastic bag can retain moisture, but it is not breathable, and sometimes the cuttings even rot. To keep them moist and fresh, all you need to do is buy a few fresh cucumbers, and the problem is solved. Cut the leaves off the branches, leave the leaf stalks, and insert them into the cucumber from the end where it bloomed; this both preserves the cutting's moisture and prevents it from rotting (because cucumbers contain a substance that kills bacteria). In this way, as long as the cucumber does not rot, the cutting will be fine, and no matter how many thousands of li away, you can bring it home and have it survive as you wish.

My odd flower-growing trick number five: Cleverly washing old flower pots

After a period of time, those who grow flowers will end up with some spare old flower pots: either some flowers and trees died, or small flower pots are left over after repotting. It is a pity to throw these old flower pots away, but if you keep using them, cleaning them is very troublesome (cleaning is a must: first, to wash off the layer of white scale on the surface that hinders the flowers and trees from breathing; second, to remove insect eggs and stray microbes; third, for the sake of appearance). Don't worry, here is a simple and clever cleaning method:

Add a certain proportion of ferrous sulfate to a container full of water, then stack the old flower pots in order of size, large ones at the bottom, small ones on top, and soak them together in the ferrous sulfate solution. After about three days, take them out and brush gently with a bristle brush, and you can wash the dirt off the surface of the flower pots completely clean. The principle is simple: the ferrous sulfate solution is slightly acidic, and the white scale on the pot edge is alkaline; when the two neutralize each other, cleaning becomes very easy.

After using this method, the flower pots can stay clean and attractive for a long time. Furthermore, the pots being slightly acidic is also beneficial to the growth of flowers and trees.

New flower pots treated this way can achieve the same preventive effect.

My odd flower-growing trick number six: Busy with autumn sowing, a glycerin suppository bottle helps you out

As everyone knows, plants have very different forms and differ greatly, and their seeds are no exception. The best time for autumn sowing has arrived, and friends preparing for autumn sowing may be troubled by one problem: how to sow particularly tiny seeds very evenly - so they are neither crowded together nor leave bare patches. Don't worry, a glycerin suppository bottle comes to your rescue:

Take an empty glycerin suppository bottle (if you don't have one, you can buy one, very cheap. The liquid inside can be poured out to use as a skin lotion, with better effects than glycerin). Point the small end at the seeds, and with a slight squeeze of the hand, the seeds stick to the bottle mouth; then release your hand, and the seeds fall exactly where you need them! Sucking and releasing like this is very fast, and dibbling is completed smoothly.

One reminder: when you feel the bottle mouth is a bit too large, you can scald it with boiling water to make the opening a little smaller.

My odd flower-growing trick number seven: Bury quail eggs alive, fulfill your dream of lazy flower growing

You want to grow flowers well, yet find fertilizing troublesome, and want even more to stay away from the dirt and stench of fertilizer - is there any good trick? Yes! Here is one method:

Buy a few quail eggs, first gently crack the small end, pierce the inner membrane with a toothpick, and when repotting and changing soil, place the quail egg small end up, gently set it at 2 cm above the culture soil at the bottom of the pot, then fill the pot with soil normally on top.

Because the culture soil contains a large amount of organic matter and the potting soil remains moist for a long time, as the temperature rises and microbes act, the egg liquid continuously decomposes and seeps out through the fine cracks, turning into fertilizer for the flower and tree roots to absorb, thus satisfying the needs of flower growth very well. Entering midsummer, most flowers and trees enter a period of vigorous growth and need more nutrients; this is also a time of active bacterial growth, so the decomposition of the egg fertilizer accelerates accordingly, ensuring the supply. One small quail egg can basically maintain fertility for 1-2 years. Generally speaking, using this method you can go all year without applying organic fertilizer, but shortly after the egg fertilizer is applied and before it takes effect, you may apply some chemical fertilizer in moderation. In this method, the process of raw egg fertilizer becoming mature is completed inside the eggshell, so there will be no situation of raw fertilizer burning the roots. In addition, after the eggshell decomposes, it is also a very good calcium fertilizer.

(Note: The number of eggs depends on the size of the flower pot. If placing one, it can go in the middle of the pot; if using two or more, they can be placed symmetrically, 2-4 cm from the pot edge.)

My odd flower-growing trick: Number eight - Cheers with clivia - the drunkenness method to promote flowering

Clivia has glossy leaves and upright stems, with large red flowers that are dazzling; overall it appears elegant and dignified, especially suitable for placing on indoor desks, and most people like to keep a few pots at home. But there is often a situation like this: when bought, the flowers are in full bloom, but after flowering it neither blooms nor grows leaves, seemingly becoming a stagnant seedling. Is there any way to change this situation? Yes, this is the drunkenness method to promote flowering:

Use baijiu (white liquor); high-proof or low-proof does not matter. Yanghe Daqu will do, Erguotou is also fine, and if you have the financial means, Moutai is welcome too. After Qingming and before late autumn, pour a cup of baijiu into the clivia pot every few days; pour carefully so it does not splash onto the plant. In this way, after seven or eight days, you will see the effect: flower spikes emerge, new leaves grow, and the stagnant seedling revives. Treat it this way, and the clivia will grow better and better, with flowers like a torch.

Note: This method is very safe; no need to worry about burning the clivia to death. But it has not been tested on other flowers and trees, so please use with caution. If you have no experience, apply a small amount and leave a longer interval, to ensure there is no mishap. At the same time, once it takes effect, you can stop temporarily.

My odd flower-growing trick: Number nine - Two little methods to promote flowering and extend the ornamental period of narcissusNarcissus has won people's affection with its graceful bearing and pure, jade-like charm, accompanying everyone to welcome the beautiful spring. Therefore, during New Year's Day and Spring Festival, it is a fine choice for decorating the living room and desk. However, some people's narcissus, despite being lush and green, simply does not bloom; or, it withers soon after blooming. Is there any method to promote flowering and extend the flowering period? Yes!
1. Soapy water to promote flowering
Narcissus contains a plant alkaloid that can promote good plant growth and development. Soapy water is an alkaline solution; after the narcissus absorbs it, the plant alkaloid content in its body increases, which can quickly transform vegetative growth into reproductive growth, so an appropriate amount of soapy water plays a role in promoting flowering.
2. Aspirin to extend the ornamental period
Crush one to two aspirin tablets into small particles and sprinkle them into the narcissus pot. The salicylic acid component in aspirin can promote flower bud differentiation and flowering in plants, thus making narcissus flowers larger and more vivid and extending the ornamental period.
Adding some salt to the narcissus pot can likewise promote flowering and make the flowers last longer. In addition, after the narcissus blooms, placing it in a relatively cool environment also works well.

My odd flower-growing trick: Number ten - For spring sowing, mix the seeds with oil first

Spring sowing is at hand, and everyone may again run into the following problems: some flower seeds sprout just a few days after sowing; some flowers such as clivia, cyclamen, and asparagus fern germinate slowly, only showing themselves after endless waiting; and some, despite longing for them through the whole autumn, simply do not sprout at all. Is there any way to improve this? Please try the seed-oil-mixing method -

Specific steps: First soak the seeds to be sown in warm water at about 35 degrees Celsius for 24 hours, then fish out the flower seeds, wrap them in a dry cloth and wring out the external water; then mix the flower seeds with some clean cooking oil (such as: soybean oil, rapeseed oil, and sesame oil), and next you can sow as usual.

Do not underestimate this little method; it can make seeds that are hard to germinate sprout about 20 days earlier, and the sprouts are sturdy and grow fast; in addition, it also has a very good effect on increasing the germination rate.

My odd flower-growing trick number eleven: A new method for air permeability in porcelain and plastic pots

Clay pots are breathable and comfortable, but less attractive; porcelain pots are sturdy and beautiful, plastic pots are light and cheap, but they are not very breathable.
In short, all have some shortcomings. Actually, with just a little thought, you can turn the shortcomings into advantages~
Before repotting in early spring, first prepare some plastic foam (there is plenty in electrical appliance packaging boxes) and cut it into pieces the size of tangyuan
Small little pieces. When repotting, use a fairly thick piece of paper to form a ring according to the inner diameter of the flower pot, then place it in the flower
pot (leave a certain gap between the paper ring and the flower pot). Then you can fill the plastic pieces into the gap
between the two, and inside the paper ring, fill soil and plant as usual; thus, the whole repotting task is completely finished.
With the plastic pieces along the inner edge of porcelain and plastic pots, their air permeability is greatly increased, which has
a very good effect on the growth and development of flowers.
(Plastic granules can also be used at the bottom of the pot)

My odd flower-growing trick number twelve: Broken bricks and tiles grow flowers more brilliantly

Broken bricks and tiles grow flowers more brilliantly. If you don't believe it, try it.
Growing flowers in the city, soil is very precious. Some people continue to use old soil after repotting, but it is actually far inferior to broken bricks and tiles.
Broken bricks and tiles are easy to obtain, found everywhere. Specific method -
Break waste bricks and tiles into pieces, about 0.2-0.5 cm in diameter. When planting flowers, place the smaller and powdery pieces near the plant roots, and the larger pieces at the bottom of the pot or other parts. Other practices are just like planting with soil.
Growing flowers with broken bricks and tiles has the advantages of air permeability, water retention, and fertilizer retention. Because broken bricks and tiles have many tiny gaps and especially strong adsorption capacity, they can quickly absorb the water and fertilizer applied, playing a role in water and fertilizer retention; secondly, because the bricks and tiles have been fired, their texture is hard but not solid, and they have the characteristic of not dissolving in water
so the many tiny gaps inside can be retained for a long time, which is beneficial to the circulation of air in the soil.
Through experiments, pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, and pyracantha grown with broken bricks and tiles had well-developed root systems, large flowers, many fruits, and long flowering periods.
(Because broken bricks and tiles themselves contain fewer nutrients, fertilization should be done several more times than with soil cultivation.)

My odd flower-growing trick number thirteen: Force-feeding to fatten and grow roses

The force-feeding method for fattening and growing roses is carried out in response to the situation where a large rose plant, due to limited potting soil, has nutrients that cannot satisfy the rose's growth. It can make your roses large, vivid, and especially spirited. Interested friends may want to try it -
1. In early spring, before the rose is about to sprout, pot it or repot it, and apply sufficient fermented base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot.
2. The second step is to promote budding. During budding, apply 1-2 times of solid nitrogen fertilizer such as urea or ammonium sulfate; strictly follow the proportions on the instructions and apply diluted with water, not too concentrated, otherwise it will burn the roots. About a week after application, dozens of tender buds will grow densely; at this time, appropriately thin the buds according to the plant size and shaping requirements.
3. The third step, which is also the most important step, is force-feeding fertilization: 1. After sprouting, first fully strengthen the supply of nitrogen fertilizer to make the new buds sturdy. Water with diluted fully fermented soybean cake liquid, etc., and spray the leaf surfaces and tender branches with a 1/1000 urea solution, alternating the two once a week; 2. When the new buds grow to about 2 cun, begin switching to fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus and potassium. Apply diluted fish intestine fertilizer or other phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to the potting soil, and spray the leaf surfaces and branch tips with 1/1000 monopotassium phosphate, likewise alternating once a week. In this way, before long a flower bud will appear at the tip of each branch. To distribute the flower buds evenly, appropriately thin the buds; 3. Afterward, still alternate once every other week with fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus and potassium, to favor the next batch of blooms. In between, apply nitrogen fertilizer about once a month.
Explanation: Apply organic fertilizer to the potting soil, and inorganic fertilizer to the leaf surfaces; do not arbitrarily increase the concentration;
In case of heavy rain, avoid or shelter from the rain, to prevent loss of potting soil and nutrients;
It is best to add a certain proportion of coal ball ash to the potting soil; it is both breathable and has the function of adsorbing nutrients, and releases them relatively evenly.

My odd flower-growing trick number fourteen: Another kind of humidification - escorting balcony azaleas

Azaleas are delicate and charming, and when in bloom there is a stretch of brilliant spring color, drawing people to stop and admire. But to grow azaleas well on a balcony, the humidity problem is a real headache. Generally speaking, the climate on a balcony is always drier than outdoors, but azaleas need relatively high humidity, which forms a difficult contradiction: either the buds are hard to open, or the red fades and the fragrance disappears.
Actually, conditions can be created, and azaleas can also be grown well on a balcony ---
Find a shallow tray or other container slightly larger than the potted azalea, place two wooden strips 3-4 cm high at intervals in the tray, then set the azalea pot on the wooden strips, and add water to the shallow tray. The water height should be level with the bottom of the azalea pot or just slightly touching it. When the water gradually decreases and exposes the wooden strips, you can wait two or three days before adding water back to the original level.
The reason this method can effectively humidify is that the shallow tray has standing water year-round or intermittently, which is equivalent to installing a simple humidifier with lasting upward transpiration. The higher the temperature, the faster the transpiration, which exactly matches the azalea's humidity requirements at different periods. Secondly, water slowly moistens the entire pot wall from the bottom up, keeping it often in a good state of being neither too dry nor too wet, protecting the potting soil and root system from the effects of dry air.
This method can be used with confidence; the azalea will not rot its roots. Because water seeps in from the bottom of the pot, its depth cannot exceed the depth of the shallow tray below; at the same time, the moistening by water is completed by slowly rising, and the amount of water is limited. Moreover, the intermittent water supply gives the azalea a chance to adjust the soil air and humidity.
This method enables azaleas to grow robustly and bloom normally just as if they were on the ground.
Notes: 1. When repotting azaleas, it is best to place some materials such as plastic foam pieces at the bottom of the pot; this is safer.
2. The amount of watering should be appropriately reduced; the water given at one time is about 2/3 that of ordinary potted flowers.
3. During high-temperature periods, the effect will be better if combined with measures such as frequently misting the azaleas.

My odd flower-growing trick number fifteen: Single-node rapid propagation of ivy and honeysuckle

There are many methods of propagation: sowing, cuttings, grafting, and so on, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. But there is one method that is simple and easy to do, and one operation propagates several times the number of cuttings, with fast sprouting and a 100% survival rate. What method is that? That method is called - single-node rapid propagation.
This method is most suitable for our households. If you have the conditions to plant in the ground, the effect is even better. The propagation varieties suitable for this method are honeysuckle, ivy, winter jasmine, pothos, and monstera, etc. In addition, Syngonium, Tradescantia pallida, Tradescantia zebrina, and forsythia also have good results.
Take ivy as an example: when repotting or potting, plant it at one end of a long pot of 40 cm or more, and guide the branches to develop toward the other side. Then bend iron wire into small n-shaped pieces, insert one between every two nodes of the branches, and loosely hold the branches in place. After that, you can carry out routine care.
By early summer, use a sharp knife to cut the branches between every two nodes, so that each node carries one leaf; in this way, each node can quickly sprout and flourish. After that, at any time, dig them up and pot them, and you can get many independent small plants.
Key points: 1. The potting soil must be soft and loose.
2. The branches must contact the soil.
3. Choose varieties that, as described above, root at every node.

My odd flower-growing trick number sixteen: Cut the roots in sections, new life for old trees

It is said that all things in heaven and earth have a certain lifespan, and plants are certainly no exception. Although we cannot change this trend, through certain methods we can still extend their lives. Here is one method~~~

The so-called root of life means that life lies in the roots, and especially so for plants. When the roots are strong, the plant is strong; when the roots age, its life is near its end. So if we want to extend a plant's life, we must use our brains on the roots - during the spring growth period, scrape away the potting soil, cut off 1/3 of the entire root system, then cover it with potting soil again; thin new roots will soon grow from the cut old root areas. Treat it this way next year and the third year, and after three years, it is equivalent to the root system having been completely renewed. Compared with old roots, new roots have noticeably stronger water and fertilizer absorption capacity, so the old tree regaining its youth is a matter of course.

In addition, after cutting off the old roots, you can replace 1/3 with new soil. After three years, the potting soil is equivalent to being completely renewed, and it also saves the trouble of repotting, achieving two benefits at once.

If an old stump still has some vitality, you can also combine shaping with shortening it, so that it sends out new branches.

My odd flower-growing trick number seventeen: Aglaia odorata, blooming and fragrant every day

Aglaia odorata has glossy leaves and is evergreen all year. When it blooms, it is richly fragrant, and its small golden-yellow flowers like grains of rice stand out against the green leaves. If cared for properly, it is no problem for Aglaia odorata to bloom 5 times a year, so can it be made to bloom and be fragrant every day? There is a way -

Generally speaking, after Aglaia odorata blooms once, it must "rest" for a period before it can bloom again, because it needs to accumulate nutrients to prepare for the next flowering. So its blooming is intermittent. If we want it to bloom every day, we must artificially satisfy its nutrient needs, that is, by appropriately thinning buds to reduce the nutrients consumed by each flowering. Specifically, when in early spring the Aglaia odorata first (or second) fills with buds, you can first thin the buds on 1-2 branches, then after another 4-5 days thin the buds on another 1-2 branches, and repeat this cycle continuously, accumulating more than 6-7 rounds of flower and bud thinning, with the branches that have been thinned reaching more than 60-70% of all branches; in this way, all the branches of the Aglaia odorata can bloom in turn, achieving the goal of flowers and fragrance every day. According to the procedure, the branches that have not been thinned bloom first, and after about 5-10 days the branches thinned the first time bloom next, then the flowers open in the order in which they were thinned; in total, one pot of Aglaia odorata can let you smell its fragrance every day for 7-8 months of the entire growing period. (Because its fragrance is rich, thinning some is harmless.)

Key points: 1. Water, fertilizer, and light must keep up.

2. The plant must not be too small; it should have at least about 10 branches.

My odd flower-growing trick number eighteen: Try it, feeding fat meat makes the epiphyllum bloom

Everyone has their own hobbies, and plants are no exception. For example, clivia loves to drink liquor, while epiphyllum is fond of fat meat. During the growing period, often feeding it some fat meat can not only make its plant dark green and glossy, but also enable it to bloom as many as 5-6 times, with large and numerous flowers.
The specific operation is very simple: soak the fat meat in boiling water to remove the salt; or boil the waste lard from the pig stomach in water, then cool it. Then use a suitable tool to poke several holes in the epiphyllum pot, 2-3 cm in diameter, then cut the fat meat or waste lard into tablet-sized pieces, pour them into the holes, and cover the surface with about 3 cm of soil.
Key points: 1. Adding a little monopotassium phosphate and mixing it in gives a better effect.
2. Generally, a flower pot with a diameter of 15 cm only needs two holes, and one of 25 cm needs three holes. And so on; the fertilizer effect can supply the epiphyllum's needs for one year of growth.
3. It must be boiled and chopped, otherwise the decomposition speed is too slow and it easily attracts insects and ants.
4. Using the waste oil from the oil collection cup inside a range hood and pouring it in also has a very obvious effect.

My odd flower-growing trick number nineteen - Spraying flowers with beer, two benefits at once

It goes without saying that flower growers love dealing with all kinds of flowers. But what you deal with is not only flowers, but also various pests, haha, even though you do not like them at all.
Among pests, aphids and red spider mites are relatively easy to handle; spray the right pesticide twice and it is basically ok. But scale insects are more troublesome; they have a protective layer - a waxy shell - and spraying pesticide has little effect on them, truly somewhat invulnerable. So, besides manual removal (brushing with a brush), is there any simpler and more effective method? Yes. After discovering scale insects, don't panic. Prepare a bottle of beer, pour out some and mix with water, at a ratio of 6 parts water to 1 part beer, and spray the plant once, making sure to spray all parts as much as possible. The next day, check carefully; if the insects turn reddish-brown and fall off at a touch, then they have certainly died. If there are still live ones, spray again. Generally, after spraying three times in a row (three days), it can basically be solved.
Principle: After beer is sprayed, it forms a sealing film on the insects' bodies, suffocating them to death. However, it is also possible they died from drunkenness; of course, this point still needs entomologists to prove.
In addition, beer is also a very good leaf fertilizer; sprayed frequently, the plant can grow full of vitality and especially spirited. The ratio should be thinner than when treating pests; 8 parts water to 1 part beer is fine. If you are interested, you might as well try it.

My odd flower-growing trick number twenty: Four watering methods

Watering is the first hurdle that flower growers must pass, and also one they must pass. Although watering looks simple, there is actually a lot of knowledge in it, and many beginners' flowers are ruined at the watering hurdle. Regarding watering, the so-called "water when dry, stop when wet"; more watering during the growing period and less during dormancy; more watering for small pots and less for large pots, and so on, everyone understands relatively well, so I will not say more. Below I will only introduce several special watering methods -

1. Sand column method --- preventing potting soil from compacting
When potting or repotting flowers, first stand several hollow tubes in the pot (bamboo tubes, plastic tubes, and iron tubes are all fine), then fill soil around them and press firm. Then pour coarse sand into the tubes, with the upper end level with the soil surface. Finally, gently pull out the hollow tubes, and sand columns form in the pot. Later, when watering, the water only spreads to the surroundings through the sand columns, thus preventing the soil from compacting, with no adverse side effects.
Note: The tubes cannot stand in the exact center; leave room for planting the flowers.

2. Round-trip method --- do not give half-hearted watering
Half-hearted watering means the water has not soaked through; the top is very wet, but the bottom is still dry. If this is often the case, how could the flowers and trees not die? There are several reasons: inexperience; potting soil too compacted; no repotting for a long time, roots tangled, and so on. The solution is as follows: if you have many flowers, you can water them one by one as usual, without worrying about whether it has soaked through. After all are watered, go through them again from beginning to end, and some can even be watered a third time; this can basically eliminate half-hearted watering. Because after the first round of watering, even if it has not soaked through, the potting soil has already softened with moisture to some extent, so after a period of time, the second round of water is relatively easy to absorb.
Note: There is no need for this if the potting soil is loose. If you do not have many flowers, after watering you can go do something else, and water once more after a while.
3. Sitting-pot method --- preventing Caragana root rot
Caragana is very beautiful; when the flowers first open they resemble butterflies, and after opening they look like golden sparrows flitting about, and it can also be made into bonsai, so many people love to grow it. But in recent years fewer and fewer people grow it, because it easily rots its roots and dies if you are not careful. There is one method that is very effective at preventing root rot, namely: the sitting-pot method. Put some water in a container, place the potted Caragana in it, and when the soil surface looks moist, it has been thoroughly watered; at this point you can take it out.
Note: You must also follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet.

4. Noon water --- making jasmine more fragrant
Watering jasmine at noon can make the jasmine more fragrant when it blooms; the ancients already summed it up: "To get jasmine fragrance, one ladle of water at noon." But watering under the strong sun at noon is a taboo in flower growing, for the same reason that a person who is too hot cannot immediately take a cold shower. To water flowers at noon without mishap, the premise is to first put the water under the sun to warm it, and water when the water temperature is close to the soil temperature; then it is ok and safe.
Reminder: Other plants have not been tested; please use with caution.

My odd flower-growing trick number twenty-one - Old loofah helps you get green leaves and beautiful flowers

The autumn wind rises, and the harvest season has come again. The loofah vines gradually wither like an old man's arms, the leaves tremble in the wind, and only the old loofahs still hang heavily.

In the past, folks used them to wash dishes and scrub pots, but now no one uses them, and they seem to have become waste. Have they really become waste? No! After picking the old loofahs, wash them clean and dry them. When repotting flowers or changing the soil, or when potting up, cut them into small pieces about 5 cm long. Spread a layer of loofah stem at one third of the way up from the bottom soil, fill soil on top, then spread another layer at two thirds of the way up the potting soil, add more soil, and afterward you can proceed as normal.

Note: Before cutting, first lay it flat on the ground and use a hammer to crush the loofah seeds.

(This method can effectively improve potting soil, making it loose and preventing it from compacting. Moreover, the loofah fibers and seeds slowly decompose in the potting soil and are a very good slow-release nitrogen fertilizer, so potted flowers all have emerald leaves and beautiful blooms.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, No. 22: The Wonderful Use of Sawdust - Turning Waste into Treasure

During ordinary home renovation, sawdust is often simply dumped as garbage afterward. In fact, sawdust is very useful to those of us who grow flowers, and we can absolutely turn it into treasure~~
  1. Cuttings: Sawdust used as a cutting medium for roses, gardenias, pomegranates and other plants gives obvious results, far better than soil cuttings or water cuttings, and roots form quickly, in greater number, with sturdy plants. There is an even greater advantage: after the plant has rooted and survived, it can be moved into potting soil together with the block of sawdust, so the roots are not damaged, the plant establishes easily, and flowers and fruit appear early. Even for varieties that are harder to root, such as rhododendrons, I have tried successfully, and even a tiny tip of begonia about an inch long can root quickly. The reason is that sawdust retains water and allows air through better than soil, with ample oxygen.
Specific method: Put the sawdust into a flowerpot, then pour boiling water through it several times to thoroughly sterilize it. After the temperature drops, squeeze out the excess water (so that the damp sawdust does not drip water when squeezed by hand), and then you can begin cutting, using the same method as soil cuttings. After inserting, keep the sawdust moist and roots will form and the plant will survive quickly. This method can be carried out in all four seasons; only in winter does it need to be placed on a sunny windowsill indoors with heating.
  2. As a wrapping medium for air layering: Because sawdust is loose in texture and its moisture can be controlled, it is likewise superior to other media, roots form relatively quickly, it is relatively safe, and the survival rate is high.
Specific method: After girdling the plant, fill the plastic bag wrapped around it with a medium made of half damp sawdust and half loess mixed together, then tie both ends tightly.
  3. As fertilizer: Making fertilizer with damp sawdust is nutritionally complete, economical, simple, and clean and hygienic.
Specific method: Mix damp sawdust with an appropriate amount of inorganic fertilizer such as superphosphate or potassium phosphate or urea; it is even better if organic fertilizer is mixed in. Put it into a plastic bag and tie the opening tightly. Turn it over once every two weeks to speed up even decomposition. In spring and autumn, it can be used after about six weeks.
Note: When using it, 50% soil must be mixed in.
The above lists several points; the rest need not be repeated. In fact, the uses of sawdust are not limited to these, and everyone can use their brains and give it a try.
(Oh, I forgot an important point, so let me add it now~~ Sawdust must be fermented before use.)

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, No. 23: If You Want Flowers and Trees to Do Well in Winter, Leave Some Grass in the PotThe reason I say "leave" rather than "plant" is that our potted flowers often have some wild grass that arrives uninvited and grows luxuriantly in perfect contentment. The reaction of most flower lovers is to grit their teeth in hatred and be determined to remove it, the so-called pulling up the grass by the roots.
This trick of mine is not really so strange. It is because flower lovers often ask that in winter the watering standard is hard to grasp. Roots rot, leaves drop, and the poor flower's life is hard to preserve. Is there any simple method that can let everyone quickly grasp the watering standard? Yes. Please show mercy and leave a little wild grass in the pot; pulling up the grass by the roots is not acceptable.
Generally speaking, most varieties of plants are in a dormant or semi-dormant state in winter, so they do not need much water, and the soil only needs to be slightly moist. Many flower lovers, however, often rush to water as soon as they see the soil surface turn pale, thinking that the flower may dry out. In fact this is not so: when the soil surface turns pale, the middle is still very moist. If things go on like this, it would be strange if the flowers and trees did not develop problems!
Leaving some grass in the pot does not mean leaving any kind of grass; you should leave those green grasses that stand cold-resistant in winter. And it is not that the more the better, either; just three to five plants will do.
When should you water? When should you not water yet? Look at the grass! If the grass is still standing green and lush, do not water; if the wild grass has wilted and lost its spirit, water immediately. The standard is just that simple!
Leaving some grass in the pot has more benefits than these: it can protect against cold in winter and against sun in summer, and it can also decorate the pot surface - just think, what is there to admire about bare soil? In addition, when loosening the soil, burying the grass in the soil with a trowel makes green manure, enough to compensate for the loss caused by the wild grass competing with the potted flowers for nutrients.
I have used this method for watering for more than a year, and it has proved effective every time. If you believe it, you can try it too.
Note: 1. Plants still flowering and fruiting in winter are not covered by this example.
      2. This method also applies in other seasons.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, No. 24: Buried-Node Propagation - Emerald Bamboo Becomes a Grove"I would rather eat without meat than live without bamboo." The ancients were like this, and people today are the same. In modern households, for greening around the residence or in the environment, emerald bamboo is also one of the varieties that fully deserves its place. Planting trees often requires "ten years to grow a tree," while planting bamboo often creates a clear, shaded, ever-green environment in just one or two years. On a night with bright moonlight, the swaying bamboo shadows outside the window add infinite refined pleasure.
Planting a few tall bamboo stalks in a pot and adding one or two scholar's rocks is also a beloved desk item in the hearts of many flower growers.
Bamboo generally uses the method of propagation with rhizomes, and a few are also grown from seed. This propagation method of mine is relatively rare (my cousin taught it to me), but the effect is excellent - simple and easy to carry out, with a high survival rate. Bamboo lovers may as well give it a try......
In early spring during rainy weather, choose a mother bamboo with plump buds and saw it off between two nodes (that is, leave one node scar in the middle); next, fill the bamboo tube from both ends with moist fine sand, filling it full and pressing it firm, then seal both ends of the bamboo tube with clay. This is the first step.
Second, choose loose, water-permeable sandy loam. According to the thickness of the bamboo tube, dig a trench about 10 cm deep, place the prepared bamboo tube flat in the trench and cover it with soil, press it slightly firm, then water it thoroughly. In this way it is done. Remember when burying the node to face the buds upward, and by no means put it in upside down.
The bamboo nodes can grow tender shoots in about 25-30 days. If making a bonsai, simply pot it up during the rainy season.
Key points~~ 1. To cultivate a bamboo grove, choose thick bamboo; to cultivate potted plants, choose thin varieties.
           2. When sawing the bamboo tube, be careful not to split it, so as not to injure the buds.
           3. Water according to the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet.
           4. After burying, it is best to cover with some bamboo branches or dried grass to block part of the sunlight.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, No. 25: Homemade Rooting Agents - Fast and Abundant RootingThe weather is gradually warming, the ground is warming too, and the good season for cuttings has arrived again. There are many kinds of cutting methods, and generally people like soil cuttings or water cuttings. But everyone's handling methods differ; in addition, because of differences among plant varieties, rooting may be easy or difficult, which makes survival rates differ. In order to properly solve this problem, before cutting everyone likes to use rooting agents such as naphthaleneacetic acid. This is indeed effective, and the rooting survival rate is also somewhat improved. But what if the place is remote, supplies are out of stock, and you cannot buy it for a while? Do not worry, let me introduce several homemade rooting agents for you. They cost no money, and their effect is not at all inferior to bought ones -
(1) Phosphate fertilizer solution~~ As said above, rooting agents such as naphthaleneacetic acid are actually a kind of rooting hormone. In fact, phosphate fertilizer solution has the same effect. This is because the substance "phosphorus" can effectively promote the growth and development of plant cells and tissues and promote the healing of plant wounds and rooting.
Specific method: Before cutting, first dilute the phosphate fertilizer solution with water at a ratio of 7 parts water to 3 parts fertilizer, then soak the pre-treated cuttings (the base) in the fertilizer solution, with the submerged part making up 1/3 of the cutting. After 2-3 hours, take them out and rinse them clean with clear water, and then cut as usual.
For common varieties such as camellias and roses, using this method for cuttings can make them root 10-22 days earlier, with well-developed roots and vigorous growth.
(2) White sugar solution~~ This is also a very good rooting agent. Tested by many people, its effect is obvious.
Specific method: First melt white sugar with hot water at a ratio of 9 parts water to 1 part sugar. After the sugar water cools, soak the trimmed cuttings in it. Take them out after about 40-60 minutes, rinse the cut ends clean with clear water, and use a sharp knife to cut off part of the cut end, then cut as usual.
After the above treatment, the survival rate is much higher than that of ordinary cuttings. Even for rhododendrons, camellias and others that are relatively difficult to root, it can reach more than 90%.
(3) Willow soaking liquid~~ Willow liquid is a very good plant growth agent. Its liquid is rich in growth hormones, so whether planted upright or upside down it can survive, and its vitality is especially strong.
Specific method: Take some willow branches and leaves, crush the branches with a hammer, then soak them in water. After one day, remove the branches and leaves, and the water is the willow soaking liquid.
On the second day, soak the cuttings in it for about 1 day (a longer time does no harm; willow liquid contains components that inhibit bacterial reproduction), then cut as usual.
Roots form quickly and in abundance, and the plants grow vigorously.
My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, No. 26: The "Amphibious" Cutting MethodCutting is a simple and easy propagation method that everyone is happy to use; at present it is also the good season for cuttings, so several of my posts are related to cuttings. I recommend them to everyone, hoping they can be of some help.
The two most commonly used cutting methods are soil cuttings and water cuttings, each with advantages and disadvantages. But both have one difficulty~~ after rooting they must be moved into pots. Because the new roots are relatively delicate, and in addition some people are not very skilled in handling them, efforts are often wasted and success is lost at the last moment, which is very disheartening.
The cutting method introduced below does not require moving into a pot after rooting, thus greatly increasing the survival rate of cuttings. I call it the "amphibious cutting method."
The method is as follows~~
  1. Find a flowerpot of suitable size and first seal the bottom hole with melted wax liquid. (Other materials can also be used, but it must be able to be poked open with one push when needed.)
  2. Place about 3/5 cutting soil in the bottom of the container, and spread about 1/5 river sand on top to fix the cuttings. Then gently pour in clear water until it is about 1 cm above the sand surface.
  3. Cutting. The cuttings can be about 8-15 cm long. Trim the lower end flat with a sharp knife (cutting it into a horseshoe shape or a flat surface both work), so it is less likely to rot. Insert the cutting about 1/3 of the way into the yellow sand, and remove the green leaves below the water surface. The cuttings should not be too crowded; generally 1-3 plants are more suitable.
  4. After inserting, it can be placed in a full-sun environment (for cuttings taken in midsummer, it is better to place them in diffused light), but the sand surface must not lack water. Change the clear water once every 10 days to half a month to ensure the water quality remains clean.
  5. Roots form in about 25 to 45 days. At that time, poke open the sealed bottom hole of the pot from below and drain the water completely. After a few days, when the potting soil is dry, water again and enter the normal management stage.
Notes: a. Choose moisture-tolerant varieties, such as gardenia, Buddhist pine, serissa and other plants.
              b. The potting soil should be plain soil (without fertilizer).
              c. If you cannot determine whether the cutting has rooted, you can pull it up to observe. If white new roots appear on the callus tissue, you can drain the water and switch to dry cultivation.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, No. 27: Water Cuttings of Daphne A, B, C
Daphne is a fine flower among flowers. It is full of vitality all year round, with branches and leaves so green they seem about to drip; when it blooms, its fragrance carries far and fills the room with spring, making it a precious seasonal flower for the Spring Festival. Among them, the golden-edged daphne has leaves like green inlaid with gold, and its flower color changes from white to purple to red, very bright and gorgeous, with an extremely strong fragrance. It can be said to be excellent in color, fragrance, posture, and charm, and has been listed as a treasure since ancient times.
To propagate golden-edged daphne in our own homes, we generally like to use the cutting method. This method is not bad, but the survival rate cannot be very well guaranteed, and it takes a relatively long time. By comparison, water cuttings are much superior to soil cuttings~~
Water cuttings can be carried out from April to September, and now is the best time. This is because when the temperature is low, rooting takes a long time, or the cuttings even fail to root and rot; when the temperature is too high, a large amount of bacteria breed in the water, which is also unfavorable for the branches to root. At present the cutting temperature is just suitable.
Specific method: Cut off the current year's branches, remove the lower leaves, keep 3-4 leaves at the upper part, and trim the insertion end into a horseshoe shape with a sharp knife to help more roots form. Then find a suitable bottle, fill it with clear water, and insert the lower part of the cutting. Note that the water bottle should be placed in a place with diffused light, not in the sunlight, nor too shady. Change the clear water once every three or four days.
After water cutting, at the current temperature, roots can form in about 25-30 days. If before water cutting the cuttings are soaked for 4 hours in naphthaleneacetic acid rooting solution, rooting can be one week earlier.
Notes: 1. If there are many branches, they can be tied into a bundle and inserted.
2. When the roots grow to 3-4 cm, they can be potted up. Be careful when potting up not to break the roots.
3. After cuttings are potted up in the same year, they will not send out new shoots that year, so there is no need to fertilize. By around the next Spring Festival the young plants can bloom, and after flowering they can be fertilized normally.

My Unusual Flower-Growing Tricks, No. 28: Inserting Epiphyllum Upside DownEpiphyllum has large and beautiful flowers, with delicate and eye-catching colors, and it is coarse and easy to grow, so many flower lovers want to have a pot. The common trick for home propagation of epiphyllum is cuttings, but many flower lovers report that the survival rate of cuttings is not high, and with a little carelessness the roots rot, so many years of cuttings bring no success. Why do epiphyllum cuttings rot easily? Because its fleshy stems are relatively thick, and the cut end is extremely sensitive to soil moisture - if too wet, the cuttings rot easily; if too dry, the branches become shriveled, thin and weak, and almost lifeless. Even the cut end of a branch that has been rooted for a long time may still rot with a little carelessness, wasting all previous efforts. To solve this problem, there is a clever method, and that is upside-down insertion.

The method is very simple: cut off a 10-15 cm cutting with a sharp knife (the part with the leaf tip at the upper end), then insert it upside down into the soil, with the depth in soil about 6-8 cm. Because it is inserted upside down, the cut end is exposed outside. At the current temperature, roots can form and it can survive in about 20 days, and in a month and a half new branches can sprout and grow. At this point, it can safely be transferred to normal management.

Notes: 1. Be careful when watering or spraying, and do not spray the upward-facing cut end.

            2. There is no need to control water; from the very beginning, water according to the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet.

            3. The cutting medium need not be sand or plain soil; it can be inserted directly into fertile, loose soil.

            4. Cut and insert right away; the cuttings do not need to be dried in the shade.

            5. The section of the cutting from the new roots to the old part will naturally shrink and dry up later, and new branches will take its place.

The full text is reposted from the netizen 5z of Canghua Pavilion, with special thanks.