Detailed Guide to Fertilizing Tradescantia zebrina: What Fertilizer to Use and How Often

Among the many plants, Tradescantia zebrina has relatively strong adaptability, but if you want it to grow well, the correct fertilizing method is especially important. So how do you fertilize Tradescantia zebrina in a more scientific way? Let's take a look together.

How to Fertilize Tradescantia zebrina

Normally, Tradescantia zebrina should be fertilized once every 15-20 days, but because each growth stage has different nutrient needs, it cannot be generalized. For example, fertilization should stop in winter. Below, let's look at what fertilizer to use and how often to apply it.

1. What Fertilizer Should Be Used for Tradescantia zebrina

When fertilizing Tradescantia zebrina, the fertilizer is generally mainly liquid fertilizer, and base fertilizer, nitrogen fertilizer, phosphorus fertilizer, and potassium fertilizer should be reasonably allocated. If you are not a professional, you can buy specialized fertilizer to avoid poor growth caused by nutritional imbalance.

2. How Often to Fertilize Tradescantia zebrina

1. When Potting

When potting, we can apply sufficient base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot. Its role is to create a good soil environment for the growth and development of Tradescantia zebrina. The ingredients of the base fertilizer are generally peat, perlite, and vermiculite, and livestock manure can also be used as base fertilizer.

2. Growth Period

The growth period is when nutrient demand is highest. At this time, how should Tradescantia zebrina be fertilized? Apply fertilizer once about every 15-20 days. When liquid fertilizer is the main type, you can usually increase the frequency of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, for example by interspersing it 2-3 times. It can promote the growth of stems and leaves and make the leaf color more glossy.

3. Dormant Period

When the temperature is below 10°C, the growth of Tradescantia zebrina will be very slow, and it will gradually enter the dormant period. At this time, fertilization needs to stop. Do not worry that it will grow poorly due to lack of fertilizer. If you fertilize, it may instead cause adverse conditions.

4. When Repotting

Potted Tradescantia zebrina should have its potting soil changed regularly. When changing the potting soil, Tradescantia zebrina needs some time to adapt to the new soil. At this time, how should Tradescantia zebrina be fertilized? The answer is to fertilize 20 days after repotting, and when repotting, base fertilizer can be applied at the bottom of the pot.

3. What to Pay Attention to When Fertilizing Tradescantia zebrina

1. Do Not Use Too High a Concentration

When fertilizing, no matter what kind of fertilizer it is, you must pay attention not to use too high a concentration, and fertilization should not be excessive. Otherwise, fertilizer burn may occur and cause the leaf tips to scorch yellow. The basic principles should be light fertilizer applied frequently, small amounts with more applications, and complete nutrition. This is a key point in the cultivation methods for Tradescantia zebrina.

2. Fertilize Evenly

When fertilizing, the fertilizer should be spread evenly around the plant rather than only in the same spot. Otherwise, some roots will absorb a large amount of nutrients while other roots have no fertilizer to absorb. The result is that the plant's appearance is affected.

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Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points of Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are mainly in the following aspects: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of post-bloom pruning and repotting of some woody flowers; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, pocketbook plant, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: magnolia, banana shrub, photinia, maple, and crabapple (Rosaceae) seeds that have been sand-stored and have already cracked and shown white, as well as camphor tree, tulip tree, privet, winterberry, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summer wintersweet, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by outdoor cuttings or by cuttings with plastic film covering for moisture retention include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of varieties such as Gongfen and Lü'e), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, snow-in-summer, hibiscus, hypericum (plum), spiraea, mahonia, boxwood, oil hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and Chinese trumpet creeper can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, one can also continue to cut branches of weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. for storage treatment, so as to take cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, red-back eupatorium, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, chloranthus, bergamot, jade plant, jade leaf, stone lotus, gem flower, queen of the night, orchid cactus, clearweed (Pilea), air plant (Kalanchoe), longevity flower, Rieger begonia, bleeding heart vine, Schefflera, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, dragon pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings with a diameter of about 0.8 to 1.2 cm as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate excellent varieties of wintersweet such as "Suxin", "Xinkou" and "Huti", adopting bagging and inflation for moisture retention measures, resulting in a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the "Elizabeth" variety of Chinese rose as rootstock and scion, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for scions of excellent Chinese rose varieties; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, weigela, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese juniper, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hypericum, hydrangea, oakleaf hydrangea, spiraea, red maple, banana shrub, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tulip, bromeliads, purple-back oyster plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plants, air plant (Kalanchoe), canna, arrowroot, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), arrowhead plant (Syngonium), bird of paradise, clivia, aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), cotton rose, hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana sinica, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, phoenix bamboo, dwarf white-striped bamboo, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), holly, winterberry and winter coral can be picked, treated and then sand-stored to promote germination; sowing can be carried out only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seed germination rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown by dibbling, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows; after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions the soil is not frozen and the temperature is relatively high; herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edge holly, daisy, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among them, deciduous types such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before budding and leafing), magnolia, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, three-pronged, deutzia, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw scholar tree, dwarf cherry, elm-leaved spirea, hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as banana shrub, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French green, machilus, purple nanmu, etc., can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Shu cypress, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., when planting, should be given moderate pruning.

    1. Cold protection. In February the weather is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants consume relatively more nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants greatly declines, so one should continue to carefully do a good job of moisture retention and cold protection. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang them; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange; especially by the end of February, the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of highest temperature in the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window, without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities at home, such as Milan, Phalaenopsis, peacock plant (Calathea makoyana), arrowhead plant (Syngonium), iron cross begonia, croton, pink powder leaf, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be added at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as "bathroom heaters" turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, due to the relatively low temperature, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low; once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is extremely easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves will lose green color, and flower buds will stop growing; in severe cases the leaves will shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds will shrivel and fall off. For plants such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter coral, etc., bud drop and fruit drop, or even death, may all occur. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, longevity flower, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, heavenly bamboo, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, winterberry, four-season orange, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits, so that the leaves can be emerald green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, hall crabapple, etc. placed in tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day, so as to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds and enable them to bloom as scheduled. For purchased large-flowered Cymbidium cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often appear shrunken and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it is necessary to ensure that the potting soil is moist, and spray the plants with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February the vast majority of potted flowers do not need much water, inspection should be strengthened; especially during several consecutive days of sustained temperature rise, watering and spraying should be supplemented in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, watering should be supplemented in time; especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, around noon on clear days, foliar water spraying should also be appropriately given to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward, which would affect the recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, one can continue to bury base fertilizer for most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc.; these can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, colorful bromeliad, Tillandsia, Guzmania, clivia, etc., one can continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate as a top dressing, to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out; for branches that have bloomed, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, promoting the production of more new shoots in the current year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, banyan, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, Chinese ash, water willow, Elaeagnus, holly, wintergreen, snow-in-summer, juniper, Japanese juniper, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium, Milan, white orchid, jasmine, chloranthus, two-color jasmine, red-back eupatorium, sword fern, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), rubber tree, fuchsia, begonia, four-season begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, longevity flower, amaryllis, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, bleeding heart vine, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), croton, arrowhead plant (Syngonium), arrowroot, winterberry, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, bergamot, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, spray with 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in tunnels, spray with 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, stop foliar spraying of "Duoxiaohao" and other foliar fertilizers, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high; foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb, and on the contrary it is easy for mold to breed on the leaf surface, and in severe cases can form unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as pink tamarisk scale, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black-brown circular scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun; after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flowerpots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer; especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, one can continue to turn and cultivate garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese savin, juniper, oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, snow-in-summer, creeping juniper, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, Caragana sinica, small golden coin plum, winter hazel, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc.

Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If the plant is found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing undue losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or if the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, banana shrub, Erqiao magnolia, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, tulip tree, plum blossom, Chinese rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, heavenly bamboo, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, Aucuba japonica, French holly, privet, broadleaf mahonia, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Fatsia japonica, Shu cypress, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness or moisture in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage; second, they should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a longer flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose large-sized plants that grow relatively slowly but are basically already formed, so that the greening and beautification effect can be obtained earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some idle land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many kinds of herbaceous flowers and ground cover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, step-by-step tall, marigold, hollyhock, balsam, lupine, daisy, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), corn poppy, autumn zephyr lily, dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flowers and ground cover plant species that are relatively shade-tolerant include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, lycoris, Rohdea japonica, purple-back oyster plant, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), iris, calamus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potted cultivation in home courtyards. Under relatively good conditions, one can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Milan, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree, king coconut, white orchid, chloranthus, jasmine, winterberry, bromeliads, money tree (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered Cymbidium, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), clivia, golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), nerve plant (Fittonia), croton, little angel, arrowhead plant (Syngonium), bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, pocketbook plant, fishtail palm, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, one can plant and grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), sago palm, bamboo palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana sinica, snow-in-summer, Chaenomeles speciosa, four-season osmanthus, cacti, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), rubber tree, queen of the night, orchid cactus, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Philodendron, Schefflera, clearweed (Pilea), red-back eupatorium, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, red azalea, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, red maple, tulip tree; the latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed enough water. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised as seedlings after sand storage for germination promotion include: sago palm, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, fan palm, purple magnolia, banana shrub, osmanthus, horse chestnut, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), holly, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: balsam, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, colorful pepper, winter coral, four-season primrose, mallow, four-o'clock, bird of paradise, clivia, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), etc.; some cold-sensitive species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium, queen of the night, orchid cactus, portulacaria, gem flower, stone lotus, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, hypericum, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, forsythia, winter jasmine, Chinese juniper, daphne, firethorn, etc.; cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, dragon pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old white magnolia and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate banana shrub, Erqiao magnolia, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scion branches of excellent wintersweet varieties, carry out cut grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, resulting in a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus ball types, preferably in tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese juniper, straight cypress, banana shrub, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchids, bleeding heart, cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), sago palm, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snake plant, purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, bird of paradise, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Erqiao magnolia, tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be carried out to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., transplanting is acceptable even after budding, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient and good soil ball should be taken; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossoms, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning dead branches, pest-infested branches, and overly vigorous flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, they can be cut off 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds; through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as Chinese rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, hall crabapple, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture promptly after leafing can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: dianthus, snapdragon, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), daisy, hollyhock, mallow, silver-edge lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily, chive orchid, iris, Reineckea carnea, ribbon grass, dwarf lilyturf, red-flowered wood sorrel, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first weed and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, hall crabapple, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Japanese white pine, heavenly bamboo, Chinese elm, trident maple, oak, Chinese ash, etc. placed outdoors, repotting can be done before they bud and leaf out, replacing them with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for growth in spring and summer. For white orchid, Milan, chloranthus, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bird of paradise, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, winterberry, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), Philodendron, clivia, little angel, arrowhead plant (Syngonium), arrowroot, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before moving them out.

(2) Hardening off. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be emphasized. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March it is still necessary to continue cold protection and heat preservation work; in late March, doors and windows of the home can be opened during the day for ventilation, and closed at night, so that white orchid, Milan, chloranthus, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), poinsettia, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), little angel, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually undergo hardening off and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that would affect growth and normal flowering in the current year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and one must not be careless.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), fuchsia, bleeding heart vine, jasmine, chloranthus, white orchid, sago palm, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), croton, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), begonias, etc., carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches and some yellowed leaves. For trident maple, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), true juniper, Huangshan pine, black pine, Chinese elm, Chinese ash, oak, red nanmu, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out before budding in March to further improve their shaping. For plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, forsythia, etc., severe renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

Urban residents cannot every household have a small courtyard, nor can they all live on the first floor with a good small environment for growing flowers; more often they grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies, to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for growing on balconies: one category is the relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their surfaces or cuticles are thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their bodies are fleshy and thick and contain more sap, or their leaves are small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water loss, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (bunny ears cactus, San Pedro cactus, Crassula lycopodioides, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, rat-tail cactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, Pereskia, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are quite suitable for balcony cultivation. Another category is flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can withstand short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony pot cultivation (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, Chinese rose, banyan tree, stick orchid, small-leaf privet, Agave, amaryllis, Chinese sweet plum, oak, Chinese elm, trident maple, water poplar, black pine, prickly juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, moss rose, etc. In addition, jasmine, chloranthus, five-needle pine, Aglaia, Aspidistra, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc., can also be used as slightly lower-layer balcony pot plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Annual flowers suitable for balcony pot cultivation, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter coral, marigold, garden balsam, petunia, etc., can be sown in shallow pots for seedlings at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or clivia seeds are collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula lycopodioides, etc., can be propagated at this time indoors by cuttings in plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc., as the cutting medium, and propagate indoors by cuttings at a bright spot beside a windowsill: gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, podocarpus, pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, nandina, Daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot opening must be covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, Brocade pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging is required to retain moisture, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony pot cultivation are still kept indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the pot soil should be kept from freezing. If the pot soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures can be taken such as building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into a shed for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, Chinese holly, wintergreen, black pine, five-needle pine, podocarpus, trident maple, Chinese elm, Chinese sweet plum, water poplar, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. For trunks and branches that need shaping, wiring and shaping can be done in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the pot soil moist, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate misting. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected by diseases and pests, and destroy them. For dried and cracked cut surfaces on tree stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc., can be applied as antiseptic treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board on top (precast reinforced concrete). Use the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool. In summer, place some flowers that prefer humid air on it, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, green giant, little angel, Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc. The stored water is quite ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics in April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm and humid airflows from the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences of cold air moving south, for most potted flowers in areas south of the Huai River, it can no longer pose a threat. Only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still damage from snow and frost. After Guyu, the late frost period has ended in areas south of the Yangtze and Huai rivers, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower-related tasks include the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, four-o'clock, cockscomb, amaranth, moss rose, dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, garden balsam, morning glory, cypress vine, cardinal climber, tobacco flower, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, leopard plant, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, fairy primrose, nasturtium, summer cypress, maple mallow, painted euphorbia, basil, asparagus, cosmos, ladybell, sensitive plant, etc. Magnolia family flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia sinensis, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Manglietiastrum, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia multiflora, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia omeiensis, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron hybrid, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, Pseudolarix amabilis, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, Ormosia henryi, wintersweet, Calycanthus chinensis, white plum, goji berry, nandina, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after collection in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Fatsia japonica, and naranjilla, etc. Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its already blackened, whitened, and softened fruits picked at the end of April. After rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them in fertile seedbeds. The seeds can also first be sand-stored until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, remove the covering grass in time and build a shade shed; for cultivating naranjilla, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their skins peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing or planted in the ground as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Japanese pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered black locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus, etc.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, Aspidistra, ferns, rhapis palm, spider plant, Agave, Aglaonema commutatum, Chinese evergreen, Aglaonema, maranta, aloe, peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, etc. ... [The source text in this segment contains garbled characters and cannot be fully translated accurately.]

    4. Cuttings

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, Liriodendron, spirea, edgeworthia, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

II. Repotting and transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that were not repotted in time in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is broken away and the root system is not drastically reduced, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowers and trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially plum blossom, they must absolutely not be repotted after leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting outdoor flowers and trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen flowers and trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with soil balls in April. For evergreen flowers and trees, such as camphor tree, Magnolia grandiflora, Michelia, and white orchid, part of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration water loss from the canopy. For deciduous flowers and trees, it is best to transplant before their leaves unfold, such as Magnolia denudata, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc. Usually, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowers and trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the main trunk of the transplanted flower or tree. In this way, under the condition that the soil ball is not damaged, there will be no worries after transplanting.

III. Bonsai shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability, whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, emerald cypress, June snow, water poplar, true cypress, Euonymus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, arborvitae, banyan tree, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, edgeworthia, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red nanmu, Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, fragrant wood, golden bullet, hanging crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, Chinese holly, Pseudolarix amabilis, tiger thorn, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used in time to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: First, timely bud removal. When winter buds begin to move and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and female and male cones can be distinguished from new shoots, promptly remove all female cones born at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the bases of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting misting for watering, to ensure that the newly produced needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting consumes a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, topdress with nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution, to promote growth. For potted flower species about to bloom, such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jianlan, hibiscus, white orchid, etc., topdressing should also be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, etc., with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and care

Money tree can have its braids made in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers such as 3, 5, or 7. After braiding, press them down with a heavy object to fix their shape, and then choose suitable pots for planting. Money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if there is not enough time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust plant shape and prevent diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and decayed stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-viewing potted plants

For fruit-viewing potted flowers and trees that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, Aucuba, hanging crabapple, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to misting and spraying management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics in May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China. After each rain, the temperature rises noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. In May, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following tasks:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in May mainly include: fairy primrose, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, loquat, etc. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated. Second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, preventing sudden changes between wet and dry that cause seeds to "return to bud." Third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several batches and build a shade shed in time to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the pulp, washed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, peacock grass, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonias, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, hairy jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, butterfly bush, trumpet vine, gardenia, Epiphyllum, kylin leaf, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, graptopetalum, Magnolia sieboldii, bracted magnolia, Chaenomeles speciosa, umbrella plant, lantana, red-back osmanthus, shrimp plant, golden bract flower, clerodendrum, Aglaonema, Cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia liliiflora seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate white orchid and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, straw-cloak maple, etc.; use robust 2- to 3-year-old Mao azalea cuttings to cleft graft Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use sweet wormwood as rootstock to graft and propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock; softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties can also use potted rootstocks for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular stem cactus can be used as rootstocks for grafting and propagating Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flower and tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, Michelia, red maple, etc.; flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, trumpet vine, etc.

II. Potting and transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during the National Day period, most species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, by late September and early October, they can bloom on schedule, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, summer cypress, marigold, dragon's-mouth flower, asparagus, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when Magnolia denudata has finished flowering and just before budding and leafing out, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowers and trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with soil balls and established in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually require more water. In addition to combining root watering with leaf misting, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spraying water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower species suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, rhododendron, Yingshan red, gardenia, Daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage types include: sago palm, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, rhapis palm, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, giant green, green king, Syngonium, maranta, bromeliads, Brazil wood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-viewing types include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc.

    2. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning. For the shortening pruning of white orchid not long after being moved outdoors, special attention must be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water, dries up, and extends downward. For this reason, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose pruning after flowering, moderately lower by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, also pay attention to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink downward and affect the selected leaf bud. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, rhapis palm, maranta, Philodendron, giant green, red (green) gem, green king, pink-and-white leaf, fan palm, Syngonium, orchids, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowers and trees, full light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants, such as Chinese elm, Chinese sweet plum, trident maple, water poplar, oak, June snow, black pine, cotton pine, etc., require full light; while podocarpus, tiger thorn, red nanmu, green cypress, five-needle pine, etc., can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., after flowering, remove residual flowers and withered stems respectively, and topdress with a compound fertilizer mainly nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month, to restore nutritional growth while laying a foundation for them to produce flower buds again; for foliage-oriented species, such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, giant green, red (green) gem, green king, Philodendron, Aspidistra, ferns, etc., topdress once every half month with fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water; for foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, five-color bromeliad, golden-heart Brazil wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly arrowhead vine, pink-and-white leaf, etc., foliar topdressing with 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and disease control

For Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose, etc., pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them; for citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, leaf-eating pests that often appear on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue, etc., spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, June snow, green cypress, water poplar, galwood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when shaping, you must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark and structure of the branches and trunks, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics in June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, cold and warm air masses of equal strength meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer and for most bonsai, care should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts shaping or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flower and tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, remove the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds can crack and show white, at which point sow in furrows; the covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 batches and build a shade shed in time.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is great, and the cambium in flower and tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowers and trees. There are two major categories of flowers and trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia, Chinese holly, wintergreen, lilac, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Qionghua, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc.; the other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, Forsythia, winter jasmine, suxin, June snow, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, golden sparrow, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, trumpet vine, red-backed cassava, honeysuckle, hibiscus, Cordyline, Hypericum, golden-thread plum, golden-thread willow, dragon claw willow, banyan tree, Brazil iron, Ardisia crenata, edgeworthia, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela florida, Weigela florida, hemp-leaf hydrangea, peach coral types, Schefflera, mahonia, Fatsia japonica, spirea, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other annual flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, qinque, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonias, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, peacock grass, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking fully sealed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the end, and the lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, then inserted into the seedbed after briefly drying; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with plant-row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade shed for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings can root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstocks to graft white orchid, Michelia, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, Yuli, plum blossom, elm-leaf plum, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstocks to graft and propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. Branch grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Mao azalea as rootstocks for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, Qionghua, Weigela florida, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed spiderwort, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant, Acorus, golden-edge lilyturf, etc.

II. Seed collection and transplanting/establishment

    1. Seed collection

    Annual flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow immediately after collection), etc.

    Flower and tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until spring of the following year for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate; peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be sand-stored until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June should have their fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote seed embryo after-ripening, and when they germinate, choose a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting/establishment and potting

    In June, a considerable number of annual flowers need transplanting/establishment or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red-clothed tobacco, petunia, marigold, peacock grass, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's-mouth flower, summer cypress, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

Entering summer, some large flowers and trees are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and post-transplant growth. But for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with soil balls is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know." However, after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

    In June, potted flower watering should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time. It is best at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and under general conditions watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature. Keep irrigation water and pot soil temperature basically consistent. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and misting. When there has been no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase local spatial humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and mist according to the wetness or dryness of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones include: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the pot soil moist. Deeply dormant species include: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc. Under high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither and underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped, move them to a cool place, and keep the pot soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, so as to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium, maranta, Boston fern, Philodendron, sago palm, Aspidistra, giant green, red (green) gem, green king, green queen, rubber tree, Anthurium, red-backed cassava, rhapis palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazil iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne, rhododendron, daily-fragrant osmanthus, lantana, clerodendrum, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., topdress once every half month with fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water. For species currently flowering, also topdress with an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent flower species, such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, crystal palm, cactus pen, squirrel tail, mesembryanthemum, leopard flower, sedums, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, stop fertilization to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Chinese sweet plum, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true cypress, green cypress, water poplar, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect shaping should be pruned or shortened early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and well-shaped, and can promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Chinese rose, etc., residual flowers and withered stems should be removed in time, and branches that have flowered should be appropriately shortened to promote lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flower and tree species such as white orchid, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, etc., in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowering, and better flowers in the current or following year, pinch and remove buds on overly vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promote lateral bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowers and trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, zhu orchid, bird of paradise, orchids, rhapis palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink-and-white leaf, Philodendron, pothos, peperomia, giant green, red (green) gem, green king, red queen, fan palm, Daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant, etc. For light-loving flower species, sufficient light must be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, June snow, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Chinese sweet plum, Chinese holly, wintergreen, water poplar, oak, black pine, brocade pine, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc.; podocarpus, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, bamboo-leaf podocarpus, etc., can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and disease control

(1) Chinese juniper, green cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, crabapple, etc. are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poison sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose, rugosa rose, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected by anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Young leaves of bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc. are easily eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai shaping

Plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly adaptable, wiring-tolerant woody ornamental plants, and must be plants that were potted in early spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, green cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, goji berry, five-needle pine, pendulous crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, June snow, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water poplar, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, with light wiring and slow bending, and must not be rushed or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 Mangzhong; June 21 Xiazhi.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Flower Gardening Handbook (July Edition)

Weather characteristics in July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. July 16 marks the beginning of the dog days, and August 15 marks their end, as most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and 28°C in areas south of the Jianghuai region; only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have an average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower propagation
    1. Sowing
    Flower species that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis x hybrida), Chinese primrose (Primula obconica), ornamental kale, and bellflower (Campanula). When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increased ventilation and light penetration.
    In July, ripe fruits of Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), peach (Prunus persica), mountain peach (Prunus davidiana), and flowering almond (Prunus triloba) can also be harvested. After washing off the fruit flesh, sow them immediately in furrows, or store the cleaned stones in moist sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds removed from the seed pods can be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, which will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria indica, begonia species, coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), Pilea cadierei, scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), geranium (Pelargonium), Michaelmas daisy (Aster novi-belgii), purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), coral plant (Jatropha multifida), pepperomia (Peperomia), Rhaphidophora pinnata, Polygonum chinense, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), and pothos (Epipremnum aureum).
    Woody flowering species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), Hypericum patulum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela florida, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, winter daphne (Daphne odora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), edgeworthia (Edgeworthia chrysantha), Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Mahonia fortunei, pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), Cordyline fruticosa, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Serissa foetida, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, boxwood species, fig (Ficus carica), Magnolia liliiflora, osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), azalea species, camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Salix babylonica var. tortuosa, Salix babylonica 'Chrysocoma', etc. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering shrubs can also be propagated by water cuttings. These are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, etc. When using the water cutting method to propagate flowering shrubs, first, prepare a thick foam plastic board of 1 cm to 2 cm, punch holes in it and use it as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water for cuttings clean, and add a few pieces of charcoal for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach (Prunus davidiana) or peach (Prunus persica) can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, flattened peach (Prunus persica 'Densa'), red-leaf peach, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), and Blireana plum (Prunus x blireana); using rooted cuttings of wild rose (Rosa multiflora), Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and 'Shisimei' as rootstock, bud graft to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa rose; using potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, cleft graft to propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; using 2-year-old potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock, cleft graft to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; also using 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, adopt the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and whether it has survived can be determined after 7 to 10 days; using 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the Azalea obtusum as rootstock, cleft graft or side graft to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; using cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud graft to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; using current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, Malus halliana, or Malus spectabilis as rootstock, perform "T"-shaped budding to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; using Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bagged grafting to propagate red maple, lace-leaf maple, and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering shrub species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hydrangea, Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, Weigela florida, broom (Cytisus scoparius), osmanthus, gardenia, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing rose, and winter jasmine.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Acorus species, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Aspidistra elatior, Rhoeo spathacea, bromeliad species, Haworthia (twelve-volume plant), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Ophiopogon species, Reineckea carnea, rain lily (Zephyranthes candida), Boston fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), iris, and Tradescantia zebrina. II. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out
    1. Seed collection
    Flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), musk mallow (Malva), morning glory (Ipomoea), baby's breath (Gypsophila), petunia, phlox, foxglove (Digitalis), Sanvitalia procumbens, sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus), daisy (Bellis perennis), delphinium, pansy (Viola tricolor), and Lampranthus spectabilis.
    Flowering shrub seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, Japanese apricot, peach, mountain peach, and flowering almond.
    2. Transplanting, planting out, and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up flower plants to be displayed during National Day. The flower plants transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings; after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia (small-flowered), Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, and cockscomb.
    In July, tree transplanting is generally not carried out, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as Mahonia fortunei, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba japonica, and juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade shelters should be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying should be increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management, and never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel (Oxalis), geranium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), Monadenium, winter daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, and aloe, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus), and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), in July their aboveground stems and leaves wither, and their underground nutrient fibrous roots die, surviving the summer in a dormant state in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), maranta species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Dieffenbachia, Brazilian iron, money tree (Pachira aquatica), camellia, sasanqua camellia, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but appropriate foliar spraying should also be given, combining watering and spraying. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and carelessness must be avoided. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted Japanese apricot bonsai, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water restriction" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, retain only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest; flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering in the morning before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulates in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, ornamental plants whose fertilization management should be strengthened fall into four major categories. First, species with an especially long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, and jasmine; second, species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis); third, species for winter flowers and fruit display, such as bitter orange, heavenly bamboo, wintersweet, and azalea; fourth, foliage plants, such as palm bamboo (Rhapis excelsa), Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and rubber tree. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be mainly used. As for the fertilizing method, applying thin liquid fertilizer by watering is preferable.
    Flower species whose fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), and dragon's mouth flower. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua camellia, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, and cotton rose. There are many foliage plant species, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, maranta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, and Cordyline fruticosa.
   In July, for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent ornamental plants such as sedum species, Senecio, Lampranthus, and Stapelia, fertilization must be stopped to prevent plant rot.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young terminal buds at the tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), Adinandra millettii, Euonymus bungeanus, boxwood (Buxus sinica), wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), crape myrtle, Serissa foetida, and orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata). Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient for finger pinching, such as juniper (Juniperus rigida), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca'.
For potted flower species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus spicatus, faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and necessary shortening pruning should be given to branches that have already flowered, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For azalea, camellia, sasanqua camellia, crabapple, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage from direct sunlight. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua camellia, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchid species, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Dieffenbachia, pothos, pepperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Rhaphidophora pinnata, bromeliads, maranta species, and Reineckea carnea.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa foetida, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Chinese arborvitae, peach, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, and Chinese rose. For Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and five-needle pine, it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature this month is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand, which can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a thicker cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Mahonia fortunei, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, flowered hibiscus, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera octophylla, Aspidistra elatior, and Aucuba japonica, while it is not advisable to choose Boston fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', or Syngonium. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets to prevent direct wind from blowing on the plants and causing leaf tip withering and scorched edges.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new buds unfold leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous overcast rain are more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of Japanese apricot, peach, crabapple species, purple-leaf plum, flowering cherry, and flowering almond, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injecting systemic insecticides, inserting poisoned plugs, and burying carbofuran in the soil can be used for control and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate or omethoate, so as to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leaf roller moth that damages Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens. When this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to damage the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue, and stomach-poison insecticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect damaging privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum sinense, and Fraxinus chinensis, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right time should be selected to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) Japanese wax scale is a major pest damaging large-leaf boxwood, plane tree, Pittosporum tobira, camellia, purple-leaf plum, and cedar. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Species that can still be shaped are some plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and acclimated in spring or grown in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, hiba arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata), Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Serissa foetida, black pine, boxwood, and Adina rubella.
    In July, plant shaping should be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and one must not rush the operation or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the branches and trunk of the plant to break and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    In August, the temperature is high, light is strong, and humidity is low, making it the hot, dry period second only to July in the year. The average monthly temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or heat-tolerant species. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, Chinese white pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Brazilian wood, palm bamboo, money tree, schefflera, plumeria, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, Chinese fan palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese aralia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, and Chinese rose. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, bamboo begonia, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, Peacock chrysanthemum, phlox, five-color pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, and zinnia. In addition, there are Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, and Aglaonema commutatum.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet (Sinocalycanthus chinensis), American summer wintersweet, and Buddhist pine. They can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds can be stored in moist sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be stratified in sand to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, stratify in sand until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, sea lavender (Limonium), petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow (Achillea millefolium), nasturtium, and pyrethrum. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, and pot marigold.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate of de-alkalized rice husk ash and moist fine sand at a 2:1 ratio, conduct moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings to propagate the following flowering shrubs: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Japanese pittosporum (Pittosporum), Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, hydrangea, and Magnolia liliiflora. Using yellow subsoil or sandy loam as substrate, cuttings can be made of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, heavenly bamboo, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa foetida, spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, and gardenia. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowering shrubs can be grafted: in northern regions, use fringetree (Chionanthus retusus) as rootstock, cleft graft osmanthus; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstock, bud graft to propagate Magnolia x soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock, cleft graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedlings of peach as rootstock, bud graft Japanese apricot, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering plum, and flowering almond; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud graft Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, etc. as rootstock, bud graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, and Malus hupehensis as rootstock, bud graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock, crown-change graft red maple and lace-leaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock, branch graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock, branch graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock, branch graft and cleft graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, large-flowered wisteria can also be propagated by cleft grafting.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), climbing rose, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus species, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), and red maple (air layering).
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, umbrella plant, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), purple triangular wood sorrel, Aglaonema, Michaelmas daisy, fine-leaf Acorus, Boston fern, Aglaonema commutatum, maranta species, Syngonium, and Haworthia. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, and freesia can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, when some flowering shrubs are transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented with heavy pruning, shading, watering, and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting to achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged golden Chinese arborvitae, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia fortunei, Japanese aralia, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Buddhist pine, Michelia figo, juniper ball, Sabina ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Aucuba japonica, and French holly. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, and dragon's mouth flower, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, continue pruning the hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants such as Photinia, juniper, Sabina, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, and holly, pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering shrubs that continue blooming for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, faded flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be moderately shortened. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, Peacock chrysanthemum, and marigold, tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are tied with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edged (golden-hearted) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', and shell ginger, in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, apply quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, daily fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, and Lantana camara, as well as species about to bloom such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn anemone, promptly apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. For camellia, sasanqua camellia, Japanese apricot, and wintersweet, which are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed by foliar topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on cedar, privet, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, and camellia, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and cotton leafworm that chew Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: peony, flowering almond, red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, and summer wintersweet. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, and snow-in-summer.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also cannot be sprinkled with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misted more, and water should be poured into the leaf tank to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to compact. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, just maintain the potting soil slightly moist, and create a relatively cool and moist environment by spraying water around the flower pots.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, palm bamboo, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, beautiful date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, Boston fern, Schefflera, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), cinnamon (safe tree), coin tree (dragon-phoenix tree), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Dieffenbachia, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, pocket coconut, croton, and Japanese aralia, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, daily fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara, as well as fruiting plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, golden bullet tree, fruit pomegranate, heavenly bamboo, and papaya, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, autumn chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flowering shrub species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua camellia, Japanese apricot, osmanthus, and azalea, foliar topdressing with low-concentration phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be given. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, so as to avoid leaf rot. To be safe, spray the leaves once promptly after fertilizing to wash away fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, winter daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purple triangular wood sorrel, cactus species, and cactus ball species, stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For ornamental plant species that prefer coolness, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, maranta species, red (green) gem, palm bamboo, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchid grass species, Dieffenbachia, pepperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, fernleaf bamboo, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, pocket coconut, Fittonia, purple velvet plant, blood-leaf orchid, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonia species, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra elatior, asparagus fern, and purple hosta, continue to provide shed shading, pull the shade net at 9 a.m., and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue pinching or pruning tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, and boxwood. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., shorten prune after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, so only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or those kept on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxwood, Chinese arborvitae stump, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, and Buddhist pine. In August, some flowers on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, maranta, areca palm, king coconut, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, pothos, palm bamboo, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Brazilian wood, and Japanese aralia.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting substrate can be a 2:1 mixture of rice husk ash and fine sand, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be cuttings include: Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', bamboo begonia, gardenia, Pachystachys lutea, coral plant, daily fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema, Aglaonema commutatum, camellia, sasanqua camellia, and Michelia figo. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, plumeria, geranium, Aglaonema, and fuchsia.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm of wet sand, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia, sasanqua camellia, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, and Chloranthus spicatus. Usually spray water instead of watering, which is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium, tiger orchid, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, and Alocasia, they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms and sprayed instead of watered to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, boxwood, trident maple, black pine, Pinus parviflora, wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, and sago palm, water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowering and fruiting shrubs such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, and kumquat, continue applying quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, and boxwood, after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea, Japanese apricot, and trident maple, cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use a shade net to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Serissa foetida, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, Chinese arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxwood, and firethorn, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For faded flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowering shrubs, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, spray with 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Handbook (September Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China slowly decline, with average monthly temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian iron, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, schefflera, palm bamboo, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese aralia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera octophylla, Garcinia, large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Pandanus tectorius, and heavenly bamboo. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, bamboo begonia, marigold, five-color pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, and dragon's mouth flower.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet, and Canary Island date palm. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing downward during sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw for moisture retention. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer wintersweet, which can be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in moist sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, and verbena. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flowering shrub species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, Mahonia, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, golden-vein shrimp plant, coral plant, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, and Cordyline fruticosa. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedling bed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum, spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, heavenly bamboo, fig, oleander, Serissa foetida, gardenia, Japanese aralia, Chaenomeles speciosa, and peony. Some herbaceous flowers can also be cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and cold chrysanthemum.
3. Grafting. The following flowering shrubs can be grafted: use peony root sections as rootstock, graft superior varieties of peony; use seedlings of peach, apricot, etc. as rootstock, bud graft to propagate flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, and Japanese apricot; use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bagged moisture-retaining branch graft red maple and lace-leaf maple; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia x soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock, cleft graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud graft kumquat; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock, cleft graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock, cleft graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowering shrub species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Michelia figo, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and spiraea.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema, purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, snake plant, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema commutatum, Boston fern, heavenly bamboo, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, silver-striped lilyturf, Aspidistra elatior, and large-leaf Ophiopogon. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, and Spanish bluebell can also have their small bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because temperatures in September are still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flowering trees and shrubs are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the layout of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided a soil ball is kept intact. Species include: oleander, dragon juniper, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', sweet osmanthus, camellia, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, boxwood types, Hypericum, French holly, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, plus strengthened watering, misting and shading management, to ensure it is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, Madagascar periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of the year for ball-shaped plants in the northern region during the growing season. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: boxwood types, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, etc. The ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning are: dragon juniper, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, firethorn, Forsythia, etc. Those that can be pinched back and tip-pruned among the ground-planted herbaceous flowers are: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, French marigold, etc. Pinching back once every 10 days is advisable, to promote a full plant shape and to produce more flower clusters on the lateral shoots; stop pinching back after late September. For ground-planted woody flowering plants that bloom continuously over a long period, such as hybrid tea roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, ornamental pomegranate, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stalks, and moderately shorten the branches that have already bloomed, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For the trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the current year, continuing good watering and misting management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks, creating a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the canopy to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', red maple, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Croton, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright and vivid at all times, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied as a supplementary dressing. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs that bloom continuously or are viewed for flowers or fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, roses, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', calamondin, ornamental pomegranate, Bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as the large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, orange osmanthus, etc., that are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple and other flowering trees and shrubs, spraying 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution can be used for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, crabapple, poison sticks can be inserted into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on rose and chrysanthemum plants, 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution can be used in the early stage of the disease for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees and shrubs of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are also buckeye types, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple types, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, yew, Chimonanthus nitens, etc. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew, buckeye, crabapple types, etc., after treatment the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown only after the seeds crack. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected are: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four-o'clock flower, cockscomb, Madagascar periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc.; after collection, thresh promptly and store dry until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate spraying of the leaf surfaces. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaf surfaces. The watering time is before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil of the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers; some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so great importance should be attached to fertilizing management this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, money tree, Dracaena fragrans, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon types, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine, fishtail palm, pothos, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Calathea types, Syngonium, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution, etc. For flowering trees and shrubs with a very long flowering period or whose peak flowering period is in autumn, such as roses, Lantana camara, five-color lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, four-season osmanthus, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', sweet osmanthus, etc., fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, nandina, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, papaya, Diospyros cathayensis, Callicarpa, fruiting pomegranate, etc., and colorful-leaf plants such as Croton, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', bromeliad types, variegated Ficus, golden-edged Dracaena fragrans, Cordyline, Coleus, etc., a fertilizer type balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied as a supplementary dressing. For Fuchsia, Pelargonium, calla lily, cyclamen, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus, Sedum types, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia, Epiphyllum, etc., that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed by watering; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the stage of flower bud enlargement, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, banana shrub, rhododendron, etc., a low-concentration fertilizer balanced in nutrients can be applied as a supplementary dressing; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin fertilizer can be applied once every 10 days to meet the needs of bud formation and blooming next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is relatively high and the sunlight is still intense, so the shading management of courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving and cool-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, sword fern, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium, Calathea types, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, green emperor, silver queen, orchid grass, pink lady leaf, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Aspidistra, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Cupid's wing, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, Odontonema, asparagus fern, Schefflera, variegated brake fern, Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Anthurium, staghorn fern, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm, lucky bamboo, etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species, such as trident maple, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, ginkgo, water willow, black pine, oriental arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, rose, oak, Chinese fringe tree, etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, tiger thorn, red nan, oak, night-blooming cereus, nandina, jade tree, rhododendron types, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, fingered citron, bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning; for roses, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, Bougainvillea, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower, etc., pruning should be carried out after each bloom; for those tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan, red nan, small-leaf privet, water willow, Chinese boxwood, oriental arborvitae (stump), true juniper, Chinese fringe tree, tamarisk, etc., continue to prune or pinch buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, green peach, etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or control can be carried out by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowering trees and shrubs, 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution is used for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air; only some potted flowers placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowering trees and shrubs can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese black pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, Chinese boxwood, oriental arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan, Bougainvillea, rose, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry, Buddhist pine, spiny elm, June snow, firethorn, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium, Clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, Areca palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, Pandanus tectorius, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony you can continue to use large-diameter flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of equal parts rice husk ash and wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate some ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, Cordyline, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', four-season osmanthus, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-backed excoecaria, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, banana shrub, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. You can also water-propagate Schefflera, rose, gardenia, fig, Guangdong evergreen, etc. indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that relatively prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Cupid's wing, Chloranthus, bromeliad, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water basin or water vat, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, normally substituting misting for watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, spray water at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or use the soaking method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, taking care that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied by watering; for vigorously growing potted stumps, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied by watering after each pinching or pruning; for potted flowering trees and shrubs mainly viewed for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, fingered citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as a supplementary dressing; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., according to the different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The types of fertilizer applied to flowering trees and shrubs on the balcony should not carry an off-odor, especially not a foul odor; when applying by watering, take care not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, water willow, Chinese boxwood, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, oriental arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, small-leaf privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees and shrubs, dead branches and yellow leaves, spent flowers and withered stalks should also be promptly cut off.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees and shrubs are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed and killed with 25% pyridaben wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, sabina bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach and other flowering trees and shrubs, continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for the various scale insects harming camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet and other flowering trees and shrubs, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which the woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese gold pine, white-bark pine, Japanese fir, spruce types, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, sweet osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated Ficus, hibiscus, golden larch, Croton, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Rhapis excelsa, ponytail palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', thick-leaf Ficus, fishtail palm, Areca palm, queen palm, Cordyline, beautiful phoenix palm, Ficus lyrata, desert rose, South American cycad, Garcinia, large Buddha-belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Pandanus tectorius, orange jasmine, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia, dragon's mouth flower, French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, Madagascar periwinkle, globe amaranth, dwarf petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted: in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for the southern-flower-northern-grown types.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. The woody flowering plant species that can be sown are: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub types, magnolia types, manglietia types, buckeye types, summer wintersweet, Ardisia crenata, soapberry, kuding tea, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, yew, fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela, palm, pond cypress, etc. Among them, when sowing buckeye, the hilum should face downward; before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. For the above seeds, except that summer wintersweet and Weigela seeds can be stored dry until spring sowing, for other types the seeds can be cleaned, stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the following spring, and then sown. Note that before storage for germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination-promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. The herbaceous flower species that can be sown are: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, Dianthus types, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, dwarf petunia, cineraria, four-season primrose, African daisy, pocketbook flower can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. The woody flowering plant species that can be propagated by cuttings are: red-backed excoecaria, Schefflera, night-blooming jasmine, Lantana camara, firethorn, Mahonia, fingered citron, clerodendrum, Cordyline, banana shrub, aucuba, hibiscus, Bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela, Spiraea cantoniensis, red-flowered spiraea, snow spray, Hypericum, red-leaf plum, rose, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, hibiscus, oleander, fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for cuttings of some southern flowering trees and shrubs, when the Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. The herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings are: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, Begonia semperflorens, bamboo-node begonia, zebrina, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, golden-vein odontonema, cold chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Japanese black pine by bagging to retain moisture; using peony roots as rootstock, graft fine varieties of tree peony; using one-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple, feather maple, etc. by bagging to retain moisture; using one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft fine varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; using three-ribbed cactus as rootstock, graft various cactus balls; using one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. The flowering tree and shrub species that can be propagated by ground layering are: camellia, plum blossom, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, August osmanthus, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, purple magnolia, gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia, banana shrub, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, etc.

    5. Division. The woody flowering plant species that can be propagated by division are: nandina, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, double-flowered kerria, snow spray, spiraea, sago palm, etc. The herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division are: peony, hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta, bird of paradise, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Guangdong evergreen, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, multi-head green emperor, sword fern, Aspidistra, etc. The flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs are: calla lily, amaryllis, freesia, lycoris, tulip, Mediterranean bluebell, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant only after the Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves have fallen, such as hibiscus, redbud, elm-leaved spirea, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, green peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, nandina, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', dragon juniper, golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf boxwood, Chinese boxwood, boxwood, etc., when transplanting, first, shorten-prune before transplanting; second, keep a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. The courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out are: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, etc. The bulb flower species that can be ground-planted are: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for the courtyard hedges and ball-shaped plants, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. The courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning are: golden-edged privet, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, golden-edged boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, Chinese boxwood, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, small-leaf privet, etc. The ball-shaped plants that need pruning are: dragon juniper, boxwood, Chinese bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, firethorn, etc. For continuously blooming ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs in the courtyard, such as roses, crape myrtle, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and withered stalks, and moderately shorten the branches that have already bloomed. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., promptly cut off the opened flower clusters to promote continued flower production and blooming on the lateral shoots, thereby prolonging the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowering trees and shrubs newly planted in the current year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting; first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no waterlogging; second, continue to spray water on the leaf surfaces. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium as a supplementary dressing; for osmanthus types that have already bloomed, dig a ring-shaped trench and bury base fertilizer; for roses, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose as well as camellia, banana shrub, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have already been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for nandina and firethorn that are in the fruit-viewing state, as well as fingered citron, kumquat, bitter orange, Diospyros cathayensis, etc. in the south, an appropriate amount of a small quantity of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied by watering, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For the trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For the fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them and burn them. In the north, for the thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture on the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. The woody plant species whose seeds can be collected are: Buddhist pine, podocarpus, soapberry, buckeye, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia chapensis, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, pond cypress, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor, privet, small-leaf privet, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, yew, oil tea, etc.; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. The seed types that can be stored dry are: crape myrtle, tulip tree, red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood, Japanese cedar, Chinese tallow tree, silk tree, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, Choerospondias axillaris, redbud, camptotheca, Bischofia polycarpa, five-angle maple, etc. The herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected are: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, garden balsam, four-o'clock flower, Kochia scoparia, strawflower, cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain, painted euphorbia, sensitive plant, dancing grass, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them separately in the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red gem, etc., on sunny days water once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaf surfaces; for summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after autumn, including semi-dormant types, such as calla lily, cyclamen, Clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium, fuchsia, etc., increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more, to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, helping them survive the winter safely. The watering time is best at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after the autumn cool, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer as a supplementary dressing; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Clivia, cyclamen, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian rhododendron, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, Diospyros cathayensis, etc., in early to mid-October a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a supplementary dressing.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea types, Syngonium, green gem, Boston fern, Peperomia types, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off their dead branches and leaves, diseased and pest branches, weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out heavy shortening; for bindings that have been in shape for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or re-tied after untying, to prevent long-term binding at a fixed position from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowering plants or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried and planted in wind-sheltered, sun-facing soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off the dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees and shrubs, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum tiger, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms, etc.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air; only those potted flowering trees and shrubs placed on the balcony for a long time and with relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese black pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, water willow, Chinese fringe tree, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Chinese boxwood, pomegranate, Bougainvillea, thick-leaf Ficus, ginkgo, rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, Lantana camara, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flowering tree and shrub species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, Areca palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, Bentinckia, Schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees and shrubs can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots as cutting containers on the balcony, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of equal parts rice husk ash and wet sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, to propagate a small number of ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, banana shrub, jasmine, Chloranthus, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, hibiscus, fingered citron, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', golden pothos, Pelargonium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaf surfaces; for types that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian rhododendron, etc., watering should not be excessive, and at the same time spray the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Cupid's wing, Aspidistra, Cordyline, bird's nest fern, Anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea types, pothos, etc., mainly mist and secondarily water, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium, bromeliad, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea by watering; for bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, nandina, Diospyros cathayensis, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, winter coral, etc. mainly viewed for fruit, continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., apply 1 to 2 times a thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them pass the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; especially shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai should be given more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days, move them indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, oriental arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, untie them first; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, change to a new binding position and do the wiring and fixing again, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plants. For ordinary potted flowering trees and shrubs, such as rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November)

    Weather characteristics of November: this month is the turn of autumn and winter; November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to snow, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, the maintenance of flowering trees and shrubs should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic greenhouses, effectively do a good job of cold protection and freeze protection. The main flower management contents this month are as follows.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. The flower species that can be sown in the greenhouse in November are: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African daisy, Clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    The flowering tree and shrub species that can be sown immediately after collection in November are: Spiraea cantoniensis, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor, pencil cedar, podocarpus, Buddhist pine, soapberry, Ardisia crenata, palm, French holly, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film covering must be added; the main flowering tree and shrub species for heat preservation and cold protection are: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), rose (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and Elizabeth), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    The flowering tree and shrub species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November are: red-leaf plum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese elm, June snow, etc. Among them, some root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    The flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by dense cuttings in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses in November are: Chinese boxwood, boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, silver-edged boxwood, clearweed, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia, golden-edged June snow, etc. If managed properly, complete roots can grow by the following spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening shapes. In winter, in the greenhouse, cuttings can also be propagated for bamboo-node begonia, Begonia cathayana, lotus-leaf begonia, Pelargonium, hibiscus, fuchsia, jade tree, Portulacaria afra, red-backed excoecaria, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored, to be used for cuttings in the following spring, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using green maple seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple and feather maple indoors by bagging; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union buried in soil to overwinter); using thick sturdy branches of rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock-scion, and branches of fine rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut end roots simultaneously, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of fine rose varieties.

    4. Layering. The main flowering tree and shrub species that can be propagated by ground layering in November are: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, Weigela florida, sweet osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, Chinese incense cedar, banana shrub, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, snow spray, etc.

    5. Division. The woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November are: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, Lindera obtusiloba, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia, Buddleja, tree peony, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, phoenix-tail bamboo, Bambusa multiplex, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut and replanted separately for planting out.

The herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division are: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliad, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, evergreen, Aspidistra, Bryophyllum, etc.

    1. Harvesting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in November are: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, maple mallow, etc.

    The flowering tree and shrub species whose seeds can be harvested in November for dry storage are: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress, Japanese false cypress, Japanese cypress, silk tree, sweetgum, camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood, Chinese tallow tree, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. The flowering tree and shrub species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand are: privet, small-leaf privet, palm, camphor, pencil cedar, soapberry, goji, yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. The herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted out in flower beds and transplanted for flower border arrangements in November are: dwarf catchfly, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale, etc.

    The species that can be transplanted as large trees in November are: camphor, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow tree, white magnolia, sweet osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, buckeye, linden, giant redbud, tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya, crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most of the leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball kept intact (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and the large branches trimmed, with a good soil ball kept and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film, to prevent a large amount of water in the tree from evaporating.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic greenhouses to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic greenhouses to promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or indoors, the amount of watering in November is based on keeping the potting soil moist as the specific standard; it must not be too wet. If the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is higher, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, along with necessary spraying of the leaves.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, and Pericallis hybrida, as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Pyracantha, Nandina domestica, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Ardisia crenata, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water frequently, to promote the swelling and growth of flower buds and to make the fruits appear even more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and indoors, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed with water frequently so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In greenhouses and rooms with higher temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta (prayer plant), Dieffenbachia (spotted dumb cane), Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Codiaeum variegatum (croton), and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', the amount of watering should be controlled to help them survive the winter safely.

[page]    The best time to water potted flowers in November is around 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically the same as the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in the plants caused by water that is too cold, which would in turn affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia miniata, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Schlumbergera (Christmas cactus), and Vriesea (painted feather bromeliad), low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, topdressing should be stopped to help them enter normal dormancy for the winter. For most field-grown flowering trees, such as Malus (crabapple) species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia 'Yunshanbailan', Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea, Osmanthus fragrans, grape, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, cherry, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, palm, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), tree peony, Forsythia (golden bell), herbaceous peony, and Hypericum, dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can receive a little less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus (Chinese wingnut-leaved ash, 'Dui Jie Bai La'), Pyracantha, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, and Malus (crabapple), to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune field-grown or potted Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 sturdy 1- to 2-year-old stems with 30 cm to 50 cm of the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base and remove all thin and weak branches; for unpruned field-grown Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), carry out heavy cutback pruning of the current year's branches, apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm of the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the other current year's branches, to encourage more sturdy new shoots the following year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees in flower beds, along roadsides and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia liliiflora, Forsythia (golden bell), Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, cherry, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha, Pittosporum tobira, and Malus (crabapple), cut off all those misshapen branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches and diseased or pest-infested branches, and appropriately cut back the water sprouts that protrude beyond the crown. In addition, in November the old fronds of thick palm trees can be stripped off and the trunks cleaned up, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering trees that are not very sensitive to cold, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus (pearl orchid), Aglaonema, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron (spring feather), Caryota (fish-tail palm), Ficus elastica (rubber tree), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Phoenix canariensis, and Rhapis excelsa, they can be placed in a plastic tunnel, as long as the temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For potted flower species that are not cold-tolerant, such as Maranta (prayer plant), Dieffenbachia (spotted dumb cane), Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaonema (Chinese evergreen), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Dracaena fragrans (Brazilian iron), Excoecaria (red/green gem), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Plumeria (frangipani), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Paphiopedilum (lady's slipper orchid), they should be placed indoors at a room temperature no lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in a double-layer plastic tunnel.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus (crabapple) species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, Lagerstroemia indica, Buxus sinica (Chinese box), Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora (five-needle pine), Juniperus (spreading juniper), Sabina chinensis, Acer buergerianum, and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), they can be buried directly in the soil together with their pots in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot; under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, a film or soft straw can be added for extra cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses or rooms in November, apart from ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from dropping flowers, fruits and leaves because they have been stuffy indoors for a long time. In addition, no toxic gases such as coal gas should enter the room, otherwise it is also easy to cause leaf drop and fruit drop in the plants. During ventilation, care must also be taken never to let the plants be directly hit by cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, Malus (crabapple) species, rose, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica, and chrysanthemum, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk and split-trunk bonsai, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the dead trunk and split parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the tree stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. that appear on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, cycads, orchids, Camellia japonica, Clivia miniata, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids that appear on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaonema, Citrus aurantium var. amara, and Rosa chinensis), spray tobacco water for control.

For Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea) placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    The main bonsai plant species suitable for shaping in November are: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus (spreading juniper), Sabina chinensis, Chamaecyparis pisifera (moss cypress), Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens (creeping juniper), Euonymus (winged spindle), Serissa japonica, Prunus mume, Corylopsis (winter hazel), Xylosma, Ilex cornuta, holly, Buxus sinica (Chinese box), Buxus (pearl box), Ulmus parvifolia, and Malus halliana.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November and the trunk and branches tied and adjusted again.

For new tree stumps such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea, Adina rubella, Pyracantha, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch cutting, plant them well on sandy loam soil by the method of shallow burying and high mounding, and shape them only after they sprout branches the following year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, a suitable pot can be chosen for repotting, and with the addition of fist-sized stones and dotted moss, they can be used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus, ornamental peach, Lagerstroemia indica, Sabina chinensis, and Chaenomeles speciosa, in November a suitable pot can be chosen for potting, and with strengthened water management, they can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks and grand halls.

Flower Planting Handbook (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month most of China enters winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent heavy frost. This month, the care of flowers and trees should focus on three aspects: first, doing a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms; second, doing a good job of pruning and cleaning field-grown flowers and trees and of turning the soil and fertilizing; third, doing the preparatory work of composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata, tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Gerbera. Flowering tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand to promote germination include: Rosa chinensis (such as 'Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, holly species, Pyracantha, palm, Ligustrum (privet), Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum sinense, Sapindus mukorossi, Photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in the open field in December include: Prunus mume (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Rosa chinensis (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf plum), Chimonanthus praecox (heel cuttings), Spiraea, and Buxus species. Among these, Prunus mume and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; Rosa chinensis cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice-hull ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to retain heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium (geranium), Epiphyllum (orchid cactus), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Graptopetalum (jewel plant), Echeveria (stone lotus), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Kalanchoe (air plant), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia), Begonia maculata (cane begonia), Rieger begonia, Chloranthus (pearl orchid), Jasminum sambac, Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Lantana camara, Schefflera octophylla, Daphne odora, Epipremnum aureum (pothos), and Cordyline fruticosa. Using cold-frame seedbeds, cuttings can also be taken of Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus (golden-heart/golden-edge), Mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia (golden bell), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Serissa japonica, Pyracantha, Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), and Stachyurus. In addition, branches of Campsis (trumpet vine), Syringa (lilac), and grape can be cut and stored in sand for cuttings the following spring.

    3. Grafting. For fine cultivars of Prunus mume, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', in December, using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum and peach sown that year, the rootstocks can be dug up and cleft-grafted or cut-grafted, then planted on the seedbed at a certain spacing between plants and rows, with soil mounded up above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; take care that water does not seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film to retain heat and moisture, and the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft fine cultivars of Rosa chinensis; or use sturdy branch sections (10 to 12 cm long) of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar, cut-graft or cleft-graft fine Rosa chinensis scions onto the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion sections into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; take care that water does not seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and heat, and the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film; only after it has fully survived may a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the graft union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with a bag over it to retain moisture.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Osmanthus fragrans, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Viburnum (snowball), Weigela florida, Gardenia jasminoides, Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia (golden bell), Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis (bridal wreath spirea), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Spiraea thunbergii (bridal wreath), and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: Zephyranthes candida (autumn zephyr lily), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Hosta (plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (purple calyx), Oxalis corymbosa (pink wood sorrel), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis (sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris, Liriope (big-leaf lilyturf), Ophiopogon (dwarf lilyturf), Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Kalanchoe (air plant), and Aglaonema (Cantonese evergreen). When cutting off the offsets at the base of a large variegated bromeliad for division, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three to four months; otherwise the colored bands of the offsets cut off are likely to disappear, which deserves special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: Nandina domestica, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea japonica (red-flowered spiraea), Caragana (pea tree), Forsythia (golden bell), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum (sweet jasmine), Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus (pearl orchid), Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Agave (sisal), Bambusa multiplex (bamboo), and Sasa fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo).

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia (scarlet sage) species, Gomphrena (globe amaranth) species, Tagetes erecta (marigold), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Cyclamen, and Clivia miniata. Clivia miniata seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Rosa chinensis, Wisteria, Ligustrum (privet), Ligustrum sinense, Pyracantha, Ardisia crenata, holly species, Cinnamomum camphora, and Photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need to be stratified in sand to promote germination; only after the seeds crack open and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage they easily lose their vitality, leading to failure in sowing and raising seedlings the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and Bellis perennis (daisy). Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, Cercis chinensis (redbud), Malus (crabapple) species, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Sapindus mukorossi, Koelreuteria (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf plum), cherry, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria, Campsis (trumpet vine), Tilia (linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), ornamental peach, Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), and Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree). However, transplanting evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: Ligustrum (privet), Osmanthus fragrans, palm, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Rhododendron, and holly. When transplanting, first carry out heavy cutback pruning of the main shoot and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, a large root ball must be kept, the trunk bound with straw rope and wrapped with plastic film, and the cut ends of the trunk and large branches sealed with wax or wrapped in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, the leaves and trunk must also be sprayed with water frequently to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox stumps, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinth, tulip, and Narcissus poeticus (pheasant's eye narcissus), etc., continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can bring them into bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In a simple plastic tunnel where the temperature is no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering frost damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Livistona (fan palm), Nephrolepis (sword fern), Rhapis excelsa, Nandina domestica, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Camellia japonica, Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi, Bambusa multiplex (bamboo), Sasa fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo), and cycads.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 5°C, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica (rubber tree), Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus (pearl orchid), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Calla lily, Philodendron (spring feather), Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea, Cyclamen, Primula (primrose), Lantana camara, kumquat, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Areca (butterfly palm), Pelargonium (geranium), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, and Bambusa ventricosa (buddha belly bamboo), they can overwinter in a double-layer plastic tunnel. For species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 10°C, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (angel wings), Peperomia (radiator plant), Maranta (prayer plant), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota (fish-tail palm), Dracaena fragrans (Brazilian iron), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia (nerve plant), bromeliads, Dieffenbachia (spotted dumb cane), poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Aglaonema (Chinese evergreen), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Paphiopedilum (lady's slipper orchid), Zamia (South American cycad), Excoecaria (red/green gem), Oncidium, and Cymbidium (tiger-head orchid), inside a double-layer tunnel with good sealing performance, appropriate heating must also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and removed after the temperature turns warm again.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus (crabapple) species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Xylosma, Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria, Buxus species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Juniperus (spreading juniper), Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, and Fraxinus (Chinese wingnut-leaved ash, 'Dui Jie Bai La'), when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, they generally will not suffer frost damage; when particularly cold weather occurs, add a film or soft straw for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, apart from necessarily maintaining an indoor temperature suited to them, should also be well ventilated; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. During ventilation, care must also be taken not to let cold drafts directly hit the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms, keeping the potting soil moist is the standard; if the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, the plants are extremely prone to root rot. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate spraying of the leaves given.

For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula (primrose), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), hyacinth, and Narcissus (European narcissus), and fruit ornamentals such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Calamondin orange, Fortunella (kumquat), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Ardisia crenata, and Nandina domestica, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves must also be sprayed with water, to promote the swelling of flower buds and also to increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves must also be sprayed with water, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Dieffenbachia (spotted dumb cane), Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta (prayer plant), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can safely overwinter.

    The best time to water in December is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically the same as the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowering trees outdoors, check frequently and give supplementary watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray the leaves with water around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most field-grown greening trees and flowering trees, such as Malus (crabapple) species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Manglietia, Michelia species, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Osmanthus fragrans, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, cherry, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf plum), Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria (goldenrain tree), palm, herbaceous peony, tree peony, Forsythia (golden bell), Hypericum, grape, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Spiraea, Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Philadelphus (mock orange), Deutzia, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria, Pyracantha, Nandina domestica, Syringa (lilac), Campsis (trumpet vine), Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' rose), Hypericum, weeping willow, Cryptomeria (Japanese cedar), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), Prunus triloba (flowering almond), Prunus japonica (dwarf flowering cherry), Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush), Photinia, Cercis chinensis (redbud), and Hibiscus syriacus, in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), bromeliads, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Primula (primrose), Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia miniata, tulip, and freesia, a 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can continue to be applied to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that were not yet pruned in November; for hedges and green walls, such as Ligustrum (privet), Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum quihoui (waxyleaf privet), Euonymus japonicus (evergreen euonymus), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Osmanthus fragrans (four-season osmanthus), and Photinia davidsoniae; for ball-shaped plants, such as Ilex cornuta, bayberry, Photinia, Buxus species, Pittosporum tobira, Forsythia (golden bell), Pyracantha, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), and Juniperus (Chinese juniper); while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For field-grown flowering trees that were not yet pruned in November, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lagerstroemia indica, palm, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf plum), Photinia, Platanus orientalis, Prunus mume, and Chimonanthus praecox, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the roots.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus (Chinese wingnut-leaved ash, 'Dui Jie Bai La'), Pyracantha, Serissa japonica, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus (spreading juniper), Sabina chinensis, Malus (crabapple), and papaya, continue pruning in December to build a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be done along with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, Malus (crabapple) species, rose, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica, and Lagerstroemia indica, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted Pericallis hybrida and gray mold on Primula (primrose), the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, cycads, Camellia japonica, and Aspidistra, first wipe them over with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flowering tree species on whose potted plants aphids often appear when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaonema, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Rosa chinensis, and Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of field-cultivated flowering trees such as Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Platanus orientalis, Camellia japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Pyracantha, oleander, Malus (crabapple), Magnolia denudata, Cercis chinensis (redbud), Gardenia jasminoides, Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Photinia, Lagerstroemia indica, and Chimonanthus praecox, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus (horned wax scale), Ceroplastes japonicus (Japanese wax scale), Ceroplastes rubens (red wax scale), armored scales, Unaspis yanonensis (arrowhead scale), mealybugs, and Eriococcus (felt scales); at this time, spray and kill them with relatively high concentrations of pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin, which rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the need for raising seedlings and mixing potting soil next year, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc., into water vats or water tanks, add water, and seal them for soaked composting and fermentation.

Pile dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs and branches in alternating layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burnt soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc., with garden soil and pile them for composting, sealed for fermentation, and they can be used for topdressing seedlings and mixing potting soil the following year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find an empty spot or a place under tree shade and pile up as much potting soil as possible, in preparation for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally, it is 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice-hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris; after fully mixing them evenly, cover with plastic film, or they can be piled indoors; after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing the clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings and planting out seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc., can be applied before turning the soil; for the time being no beds are made; after overwintering and freezing of the clods, trenches can be drawn and beds made in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Sabina chinensis, Juniperus (spreading juniper), Chamaecyparis pisifera (moss cypress), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Juniperus horizontalis (creeping juniper), Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii (Sargent juniper), Pinus thunbergii (black pine), Pinus parviflora (five-needle pine), Pinus densiflora (Japanese red pine), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, Euonymus (winged spindle), ginkgo, Serissa japonica, Caragana (pea tree), Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Corylopsis (winter hazel), Tamarix (tamarisk), Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles cathayensis, Buxus sinica (Chinese box), Buxus (pearl box), Wisteria, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus (banyan), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Fraxinus (Chinese wingnut-leaved ash, 'Dui Jie Bai La'), and Xylosma.

For bonsai plants fixed by coiling and shaping with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed and the trunk and branches re-tied and pulled with metal wire or palm rope.

For field-grown plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Malus (crabapple), ginkgo, Sabina chinensis, and Lagerstroemia indica that have already been shaped, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, choose a suitable pot and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used for display in public places or rooms the following year.

In winter, for some landscape bonsai in shallow pots and tree-stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from causing the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; third, prevent the plants growing on the rockery from freezing to death or dying of dryness. They can be placed in a location that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can safely overwinter.

Flower Planting Handbook (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "third nine-day period", and most of China enters the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, with cold air from the north moving south frequently, heavy frost and thick snow, bringing the lowest temperatures of the year. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc., in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the soil, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata, tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Gerbera. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Rosa chinensis ('Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, holly, Pyracantha, palm, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum (privet), Wisteria, Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), and Koelreuteria (goldenrain tree).

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: Prunus mume (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf plum), Rosa chinensis (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry, Chimonanthus praecox (heel cuttings), Spiraea, Buxus species, pomegranate, Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), Mahonia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Serissa japonica, Stachyurus, Hypericum, Forsythia (golden bell), Spiraea thunbergii (bridal wreath), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), and Jasminum (sweet jasmine). Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus (pearl orchid), Pelargonium (geranium), Fuchsia (lady's eardrops), African violet (leaf cuttings), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea, carnation, Cyperus alternifolius (umbrella plant), Graptopetalum (jewel plant), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Crassula (jade plant), Echeveria (stone lotus), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Epiphyllum (orchid cactus), Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Pilea peperomioides (Chinese money plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Kalanchoe (air plant), Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica (rubber tree), Daphne odora, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema (Cantonese evergreen), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), and Cordyline fruticosa. In addition, branches of Syringa (lilac), Campsis (trumpet vine), Tamarix (tamarisk), grape, Weigela (cultivar), Deutzia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Platanus (sycamore), and fig can be cut and stored in sand for cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. For fine cultivars of Prunus mume, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach and wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them on the seedbed, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold. In the Guangdong region, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, budding is often used to propagate Calamondin orange and kumquat; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft fine cultivars of Rosa chinensis; use the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft fine Rosa chinensis cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: Magnolia liliiflora, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Gardenia jasminoides, Chaenomeles speciosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum (snowball), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia (golden bell), Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis (bridal wreath spirea), Spiraea thunbergii (bridal wreath), pomegranate, and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple).

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Liriope (big-leaf lilyturf), Liriope (silver-edge lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Zephyranthes candida (autumn zephyr lily), Zephyranthes (pink zephyr lily), Hosta (plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (purple calyx), Tradescantia spathacea (purple-heart oyster plant), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis (sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris, Chlorophytum (spider plant), Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Aglaonema (Cantonese evergreen), Kalanchoe (air plant), bromeliads, Tulbaghia (society garlic), Alpinia zerumbet (shell ginger), Monstera deliciosa, and Aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Nandina domestica, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii (bridal wreath), Spiraea japonica (red-flowered spiraea), Caragana (pea tree), Forsythia (golden bell), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum (sweet jasmine), Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus (pearl orchid), Damnacanthus (tiger thorn), Gardenia jasminoides, Stachyurus, Buxus, and Magnolia liliiflora.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature seeds of Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern) and Clivia miniata in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature seeds of winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum) can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of Nandina domestica, Pyracantha, holly species, and Ardisia crenata can be picked; after treatment, stratify them in sand to promote germination, and sow only after the seeds crack open and show white.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, and holly species, to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplementary spraying with water should be given in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked open and shown white or the radicle has already extended out, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc., to retain heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in regions that are not too cold include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and Bellis perennis (daisy); in relatively cold regions, sown seedlings such as Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and Primula (primrose) can be potted and first placed in simple plastic tunnels, and used for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders after spring returns and the weather warms.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, Cercis chinensis (redbud), Malus (crabapple) species, ginkgo, Liquidambar formosana (Formosan gum), Acer species, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Sapindus mukorossi, Koelreuteria (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (red-leaf plum), cherry, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria, Campsis (trumpet vine), Tilia (linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), ornamental peach, Sapium sebiferum (Chinese tallow tree), Spiraea japonica (red-flowered spiraea), Stachyurus, Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), and Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree). For evergreen tree species, especially Cinnamomum camphora and Ligustrum quihoui (waxyleaf privet), this month, except in special cases, transplanting should generally be moved earlier to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, with heavy cutback pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in the region south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the process of forestry afforestation and land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Rhododendron simsii, Lagerstroemia indica, Acer palmatum (Japanese maple), Wisteria, Chimonanthus praecox, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and Euonymus (winged spindle); for evergreen tree stumps, such as Nandina domestica, Ilex cornuta (cat's-eye holly), Ilex cornuta, holly, and Xylosma, heavy cutback pruning must be done and most of the leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, they should be cultivated by the method of shallow burying and high mounding, and covered with straw curtains for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's work of cold protection and heat preservation is the top priority in management; the slightest negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, a special environment should be created for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, in a room, or buried in open-field soil. In a simple plastic tunnel where the temperature is no lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures of around 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Livistona (fan palm), Nephrolepis (sword fern), Rhapis excelsa, Nandina domestica, Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel), Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Paphiopedilum (lady's slipper orchid), Ardisia crenata, Daphne odora, cycads, Acorus calamus (sweet flag), Bambusa multiplex (bamboo), and Sasa fortunei (dwarf white-stripe bamboo). In a double-layer plastic tunnel where the temperature is no lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures of around 5°C can be placed, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Ficus elastica (rubber tree), Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus (pearl orchid), Michelia alba, Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Aglaonema, Calla lily, Philodendron (spring feather), Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Areca (butterfly palm), Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Epiphyllum (orchid cactus), Bambusa ventricosa (buddha belly bamboo), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea, and Lantana camara. In a double-layer plastic tunnel or greenhouse with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures of around 10°C can be placed, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (angel wings), Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta (prayer plant), bromeliads, Peperomia (radiator plant), Coleus (painted nettle), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota (fish-tail palm), Dracaena fragrans (Brazilian iron), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia (nerve plant), Excoecaria (red/green gem), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaonema (Chinese evergreen), Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant), Zamia (South American cycad), Adenium obesum (desert rose), Dieffenbachia (spotted dumb cane), poinsettia, Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), and Justicia carnea (Brazilian plume flower); during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and the addition of straw curtains may be stopped only after the temperature turns warm again. On very cold days, inspections of heating facilities and personnel on duty should be strengthened, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; the fire must not be let out and the power must not be cut, otherwise frost damage to the plants is very likely. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus (crabapple) species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Xylosma, Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria, Buxus species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Juniperus (spreading juniper), Sabina chinensis, Sabina (summer cypress), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, and Fraxinus (Chinese wingnut-leaved ash, 'Dui Jie Bai La'), they can be buried in the soil together with their pots; when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and when particularly cold weather occurs, add a film or soft straw for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, apart from necessarily maintaining an air temperature suited to them, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. During ventilation, also try as much as possible to avoid cold drafts directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air movement southward; if broken glass, torn film, etc., are found, they should be plugged and repaired in time, so as to avoid potted flowers suffering frost damage. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to greenhouses, careful checks should also be made, so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop caused by smoke damage, etc.

To bring potted tree peonies into bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day and kept at about 10°C at night, with 4 to 5 hours of additional lighting per day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, and Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine) can also be placed in a plastic tunnel at about 15°C for flower forcing, with an appropriate increase in lighting time, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinth, tulip, Narcissus poeticus (pheasant's eye narcissus), and freesia that have been placed in greenhouses in December, strengthened water and fertilizer management can also be expected to make them useful for decorative display during the Spring Festival. [page]

IV. Watering

    In the watering management of potted flowers in January, the most important thing first is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, to keep the water temperature basically the same as the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot or death of the plants. Watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms, keeping the potting soil moist is appropriate; when the temperature is on the low side, watering should be reduced accordingly; when the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and the leaves sprayed with water. For the vast majority of foliage plants, not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but attention must also be paid to spraying the leaves with water, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Dieffenbachia (spotted dumb cane), Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta (prayer plant), and Codiaeum variegatum (croton), when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can endure, the amount of watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), poinsettia, Pericallis hybrida, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Primula (primrose), hyacinth, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (flaming Katy), and Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), and fruit ornamentals such as Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, Fortunella (kumquat), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to promote the swelling of flower buds and also to increase the bright colors of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water; supplementary watering should be given in time to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give supplementary watering in time; especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, the leaves should also be appropriately sprayed with water around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilizing

For most of the landscaping trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground, such as crabapples, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia, maples, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Tilia, Lagerstroemia indica, Campsis grandiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, cherry blossoms, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, palms, Schima superba, Machilus, Nyssa, Camptotheca acuminata, tree peonies, Forsythia, boxwood, grapes, Viburnum odoratissimum, Rosa chinensis, hydrangeas, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Liriodendron chinense, Deutzia, Philadelphus, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus, Salix aureo-pendula, Ulmus pumila var. pendula, Cryptomeria japonica, Taiwania cryptomerioides, Cedrus deodara, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Exochorda racemosa, Hibiscus syriacus, Syringa, Lagerstroemia indica, Photinia, Nandina domestica, Phyllostachys nigra, pomegranate, Eriobotrya japonica, etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, you can bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. around the outer edge of the tree root system, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in a greenhouse at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azaleas, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen, Narcissus poeticus, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinths, tulips, Aechmea, Clivia miniata, Strelitzia reginae, Schlumbergera, etc., you can continue to apply a low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most of the potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in the greenhouse, since the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it can easily cause the plants to rot at the roots and die.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls, and topiary balls, etc. that were not pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs that were not pruned in December, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Rosa banksiae, Campsis grandiflora, Wisteria sinensis, floribunda roses, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Sapium sebiferum, Photinia, pomegranate, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Chaenomeles, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, palms, grapes, etc., continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of their root systems, to meet their spring growth needs.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea, Carmona retusa, Xylosma, Fraxinus hupehensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Pyracantha, Serissa japonica, Juniperus chinensis, etc., you can continue, according to the original compositional requirements and the developmental trends of the trunks and branches, to adjust and prune them according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapples, Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, Chaenomeles, Eriobotrya japonica, Prunus persica f. duplex, cherry blossoms, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, etc., those hollowed out by red-necked longhorn beetles and the like can be sawed off and removed, and the sawed-off trunks and branches should be burned.

Clear away the fallen leaves under Rosa chinensis, roses, grapes, Lagerstroemia indica, etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized place, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

For the horned wax scales, tortoise wax scales, red wax scales, cottony cushion scales, armored scales, arrowhead scales, mealybugs, thread scales, etc. appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum tobira, Platanus orientalis, Ligustrum lucidum, Pyracantha, persimmon, Gardenia, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Photinia, etc., spray with high-concentration profenofos, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, etc. to kill them, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For the powdery mildew appearing on Pericallis hybrida in the greenhouse and the gray mold easily appearing on Primula leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For the scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, and kumquat in the greenhouse, carry out integrated control: first use a wet cloth to wipe away the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For the gray mold appearing on Cyclamen plants in the greenhouse, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient: iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into a water tank or vat to soak and ferment, so that it can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dead grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. with garden soil in layers, set them on fire and burn them, to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco dust, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing the Soil

For nursery land that was not turned over in December, seize the time in early January to plow it; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc. into it; after overwintering and freezing, in early spring open furrows and make beds, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches and good flexibility that are easy to shape, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calocedrus macrolepis, Ginkgo biloba, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sabina chinensis, Serissa japonica, Sabina procumbens, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', five-needle pine, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, Corylopsis, Euonymus, Ficus, Wisteria sinensis, etc. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic greenhouse, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and they should be rewired and trained anew.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and could cause the artificially cemented rocks to break apart; also prevent the plants planted on small rocks from dying after freezing, so they should be placed in a place where it does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, only then can their safe overwintering be ensured.