What to Do When Peace Lily Leaves Droop? Five Steps to Make the Leaves Stand Upright and Firm Again

Normally, peace lily leaves should stand upright and upward, but some growers find that their peace lily leaves also show obvious signs of drooping. What exactly causes this? What should you do when peace lily leaves droop? Let me tell you the specific causes and solutions.

What to Do When Peace Lily Leaves Droop

Botanists' research shows that there are five main causes of drooping peace lily leaves: too little watering, potting soil problems, lack of light, sudden environmental changes, and the seedling establishment stage. So to solve the drooping problem, you need to address these aspects.

1. Too Little Watering

Cause: In the process of growing peace lilies, watering is a very important part. If you water too little, it leads to a shortage of water. When the peace lily lacks the necessary moisture for growth, the leaves look less firm, and severe water shortage can cause drooping.

Solution: Water the peace lily an appropriate amount. You can water a small amount each time, 2-3 times a day, and it will recover within a few days. After that, care for it reasonably according to peace lily growing methods and precautions, watering regularly to prevent the leaves from drooping again.

2. Potting Soil Problems

Cause: The soil's air permeability deteriorates, which blocks root respiration. Although the impact on growth is not directly visible, it can cause the leaves to droop.

Solution: What should you do when peace lily leaves droop due to potting soil problems? Use a tool to loosen the soil for the peace lily, and repot every spring to prevent this problem from happening again.

3. Lack of Light

Cause: Although peace lilies have a strong tolerance for shade, a lack of light reduces photosynthesis, which indirectly causes the leaves to droop. Most plants can show this condition when lacking light.

Solution: Gradually increase light intensity. You can use indirect light to care for the peace lily, then place it in a bright spot for growing.

4. Sudden Environmental Changes

Cause: Changes in the environment cause changes in light, temperature, ventilation and so on. Temperature and ventilation in particular have a big impact on peace lily growth. Poor ventilation is one of the main causes of drooping leaves.

Solution: What should you do when peace lily leaves droop due to sudden environmental changes? Control the temperature well and improve the ventilation of the environment, keeping the temperature within the range suitable for peace lily growth, and the drooping will gradually improve.

5. Seedling Establishment Stage

Cause: A peace lily just bought from the market is very likely to show drooping leaves. This is actually similar to the cause of sudden environmental changes, because the peace lily has an adaptation process to the new environment, so this is a normal phenomenon.

Solution: Although seedling establishment is a normal phenomenon, we can take some measures to help the peace lily adapt to the new environment faster, such as placing it in a ventilated and shady spot for care. After watering an appropriate amount, it will recover within a week.

Why Are Peace Lily Leaves Wilting?

Sometimes the peace lilies we grow show wilting leaves. In fact, the causes are very similar to those of drooping. In addition, it may also be related to humidity being too low. You can spray water on the leaves to raise humidity and try to solve the wilting.

Common Indoor Plant Growing Methods

Key Points of This Article

Flower pots, watering cans, soil, fertilizer, flower scissors......

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1. How to Grow Alocasia (Alocasia macrorrhizos) (effective at removing dust from the air, must not be placed in the bedroom)

1. Temperature. Alocasia can only grow well in an environment no lower than 18°C. If the temperature is below 18°C, Alocasia will enter a dormant state and stop growing. 2. Fertilizing. Alocasia likes fertilizer; fertilize it every month. 3. Watering. Alocasia needs more water in summer, but not excessively; it is suitable to alternate between dry and wet, and there must be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter it goes dormant, so water less and stop fertilizing. 4. Sunlight. Alocasia likes shade; do not let direct sunlight hit it. If Alocasia becomes "wilted," it is mainly due to insufficient fertilizing, so pay attention to topdressing. Care: Alocasia likes a warm, humid environment with slight shade, but it needs plenty of sunlight during the flowering period, otherwise the spathe will be greenish, affecting quality. It must receive 3-5 hours of light per day, otherwise the leaf stalks will elongate and affect ornamental value. Alocasia is not very cold-resistant; it should be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, in shaded conditions, spray water frequently to cool and moisturize. Alocasia likes moist, fertile soil, that is, what is commonly called "heavy fertilizer and heavy water"; during the growing period, water it more.

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2. How to Grow African Jasmine (Chinese Violet) (the volatile oils it produces have a significant sterilizing effect. It can relax people, help with sleep, and also improve work efficiency)

1. Temperature. African Jasmine grows well in a warm climate. The suitable growing temperature is 18°C to 32°C. When the summer temperature is above 38°C, plant growth will be inhibited; in some parts of South China, field-planted specimens can overwinter outdoors, while potted plants north of the Yangtze River require a winter greenhouse temperature no lower than 3°C to 5°C. 2. Light. African Jasmine likes sunlight. Its native environment is mostly semi-shaded. For field planting in South China as garden landscaping trees, it is best to choose a site with side shade; for potted plants north of the Yangtze River, full light can be received in spring and autumn, while in summer a shade frame is required, or the plant should be moved under the dense shade of a large tree, at least avoiding direct sunlight for several hours around noon. It is especially worth noting that from June to July, after long rainy periods, when clear sunny days come and the temperature suddenly rises with very strong light, shade work must be done well to prevent young new shoots and tender leaves from being scorched. For potted plants in public places, relatively sufficient indirect light is required, or they should be placed near a window; they should not be too dark, otherwise the leaves will lose green and turn yellow or fall off. 3. Water. Whether field-planted or potted, sufficient water is required, but the roots must not have standing water, otherwise root rot easily occurs. In spring and autumn, water to the extent of keeping the potting soil moist; during the plum rain season, guard carefully against standing water; in the scorching summer, spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon to increase humidity and lower temperature; in winter, for indoor potted plants, it is suitable to keep the potting soil slightly moist, and around noon when the temperature is relatively higher, spray an appropriate amount of water on the leaves. In spring, summer, and autumn, when fertilizing is normal, if the lower leaves of a potted plant turn yellow and fall off, it is very likely due to root rot from standing water, and the pot should be repotted and the soil changed promptly; in summer, if watering has been neglected and the new tender shoots wilt and droop, do not immediately pour a large amount of water onto the potting soil; instead, first spray some water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover slightly, give the potting soil an appropriate amount of water. 4. Soil. For planting in southern regions, the site should have loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam. For potted plants in the north, a mix of 7 parts leaf mold, 1 part river sand, 1 part composted organic fertilizer, and 1 part fermented sawdust can be used. During the growing season, loosen the soil of potted plants once a month, always keeping the root area in a well-aerated state. In addition, potted plants can have their soil changed once every 1 to 2 years. 5. Fertilizer. During the growing season, apply a dilute, fully decomposed cake fertilizer solution once a month to potted plants; before flowering in May, apply a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer once to promote flowering; after autumn, apply 1 to 2 additional phosphorus-potassium fertilizer applications to help it pass the winter safely. For potted plants in northern regions, to prevent leaf yellowing, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate when watering and fertilizing during the growing season. When field planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer; at the end of autumn, dig trenches around the outer roots and bury cake fertilizer, 0.5 to 1 kg per plant;

Pest and Disease Control 1. Diseases ① Anthracnose mostly occurs on tender branches and leaves, with nearly circular to irregular sunken spots, brown edges, gray-white to gray-brown centers, and sparse small black dots on the surface, which are its acervuli. Control method: In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder 800-fold solution plus 25% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800-fold solution, or 25% carbendazim wettable powder 500-fold solution, alternating sprays every 10 days for 3 to 4 consecutive times. ② Sunscald disease: In the severe heat of midsummer, when shade frames are not adequately set up, the tender shoots and young leaves of potted African Jasmine are prone to sunscald, shown as many gray-white or light-white scorch spots on the leaves. Control method: Use shade netting for shade and adjust the position appropriately; in hot, dry seasons, appropriately increase the frequency and amount of watering, and if necessary pour water on the leaves; for plants that have already been scorched, promptly move them under a shade shed, cut off the scorched tender shoots and young leaves, and strengthen water and fertilizer management so the plants recover health as early as possible. 2. Pests African Jasmine occasionally suffers from leaf-eating pests, such as Atractomorpha sinensis, causing many holes or notches on the leaves. Promptly spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 800-fold solution to kill them.

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3. How to Grow Peace Lily (suppresses waste gases exhaled by humans, such as ammonia and acetone. It can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent nasal mucous membranes from drying out, greatly reducing the possibility of illness) Peace lily is an "expert" at suppressing waste gases exhaled by humans, such as ammonia and acetone. It can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent nasal mucous membranes from drying out, greatly reducing the possibility of illness. This beautiful indoor plant, native to the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, is undoubtedly a miracle in medicinal biology. Below is the illustrated guide. Light conditions: Neutral plant, suitable for planting in semi-shade. Care required: Keep the potting soil moist and fertilize regularly; the leaves need frequent spraying. Suitable temperature: The suitable growing temperature is 20-28°C, and the wintering temperature is 10C. Can remove: ammonia, acetone, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde.

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4. How to Grow Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' (known for its unique air-purifying ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability! Therefore it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.) This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a longer time. ★Suitable temperature: 16-21 °C ★Can remove nicotine, formaldehyde

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5. How to Grow Maidenhair Fern (can absorb about 20 micrograms of formaldehyde per hour, so it is considered the most effective biological "purifier." People who deal with paint and coatings all day, or who have smokers around them, should place at least one pot of fern in the workplace. In addition, it can also suppress xylene and toluene released from computer monitors and printers.) Maidenhair fern likes loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potting, the growing medium can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mold, and river sand. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. Maidenhair fern likes bright indirect light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves will wither and yellow or even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant. The suitable growing temperature is 13-22, and the wintering temperature is 5. Among ferns, maidenhair fern is one of the most widely cultivated species. Its stems and leaves are elegant and varied, graceful in form, and compact in size, making it very suitable for small-pot cultivation and for accenting rock bonsai. Because the black leaf stalks are slender and glossy, closely resembling human hair, and their texture is very soft and beautiful, like a young girl's soft hair, it is also called "maiden's hair"; its pale green thin leaves paired with jet-black glossy leaf stalks look especially elegant and graceful. It likes shade, has strong adaptability, is easy to cultivate, and is even more suitable for year-round indoor potted ornamental display. As a small potted shade-loving foliage plant, it is superior to asparagus fern in many ways. Small pots can be placed on desks and coffee tables; larger pots can be used to decorate windowsills, corridors, or living rooms in shaded rooms, and can be enjoyed for a relatively long time. Maidenhair fern leaves are also good cut-leaf material and dried-flower material.

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6. How to Grow Schefflera (Umbrella Tree) (brings fresh air to smoking households. The leaves can absorb nicotine and other harmful substances from smoke-filled air, and through photosynthesis convert them into harmless substances of the plant's own. In addition, it can reduce formaldehyde concentration by about 9 milligrams per hour.) It likes semi-shade and can be enjoyed indoors for a relatively long time in a bright and well-ventilated place. About 4 hours of direct light indoors per day is enough for it to grow well. For varieties with yellow or white markings, if the light is too weak or nitrogen fertilizer is applied excessively, the markings will blur and lose their original characteristics. The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the winter minimum temperature should not be lower than 5°C, otherwise the leaves will fall off. New leaves will appear the following spring. It grows well in environments with high air humidity and sufficient soil moisture, but it has strong adaptability to the dry climate of the north. Note that the potting soil must not lack water, otherwise a large number of leaves will fall off. Under low winter temperatures, water should be controlled appropriately. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks. Repot once every spring; if using a plastic container, pay attention to drainage. The potting soil can be prepared with peat soil, leaf mold, perlite, and a small amount of base fertilizer. Fine sandy soil can also be used for potting. Pruning does not require major pruning. If the lower leaves have all fallen off and it has become a bare stem, cut it back at the upper half to encourage new branch growth. The cut branches can also be used for cuttings, and after rooting they will become new plants. If you do not want the schefflera to grow too tall, you can pinch it once it reaches 30 cm, that is, remove the top bud, and after some time side branches will grow.

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7. How to Grow Spider Plant (can absorb 95% of carbon monoxide and 85% of formaldehyde in the air.) Medium: Spider plant has strong adaptability to various soils and is easy to cultivate. Fertile sandy loam, humus soil, peat soil, or fine sandy soil with a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as potting soil. Propagation: Usually propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low for division, it can be done in other seasons. Small plantlets with roots on the flower stems can also be cut off and potted. Watering: Spider plant likes a moist environment, and the potting soil should be kept moist often. However, the fleshy roots of spider plant can store a large amount of water, so it has strong drought resistance and will not dry out and die if not watered for several days. In winter, when the temperature is below 5 degrees, water less; do not let the potting soil become too wet, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Fertilizing: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every two weeks. For variegated varieties, apply less nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the white or yellow markings on the leaves will become less obvious. Stop fertilizing when the ambient temperature is below 4 degrees. Light: Spider plant likes a semi-shaded environment and can be grown year-round in a bright room. Spider plants grown outdoors can also grow well under strong direct sunlight in summer. However, spider plants grown indoors for a long time should avoid strong direct sunlight and need 50-70% shade. Temperature: Spider plant tolerates high temperatures. The suitable temperature is above 15 degrees, and the wintering temperature is above 4 degrees. Humidity: It likes a moist environment. To keep the spider plant fresh and green, you can often spray water on the leaves to clean them. Pruning: At ordinary times, cut off yellow leaves at any time. Each March, repot once, cutting off old roots, rotten roots, and excess fibrous roots. In early to mid-May, cut off some old leaves of the spider plant to encourage more new leaves and small spider plantlets to sprout. Hydroponics: Spider plant can be grown hydroponically. You can take the potted spider plant out of the pot, wash the soil off with water, cut off old leaves and old roots, place it in a hydroponic vessel, and add clear water. Do not use too much water; just enough to reach the root crown. For vigorous growth, add a few drops of nutrient solution to the water (you can make it yourself). The vessel can be a wide-mouth glass bottle, glass cup, or other container. The water in the container can be changed every few days, or you can simply add some water.

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8. How to Grow Aloe (one pot of aloe is equivalent to nine biological air cleaners) Keeping aloe as a household potted plant can not only beautify the home, but also allow you to harvest fresh aloe leaves at any time for home health care. Some people say that growing a few pots of aloe at home is like having a resident "private doctor." Although this saying is somewhat exaggerated, it is not entirely unreasonable. Whether aloe is used as medicine to treat illness or for beauty and skin care, only fresh aloe can achieve the best results. 1. Preparation of potting soil There are many formulas for preparing aloe potting medium. A common formula uses humus soil, garden soil, and river sand in a ratio of 4:4:2. Practice has proved that this medium preparation is relatively suitable. Replacing river sand with sawdust reduces the weight of the medium and increases air and water permeability, and can achieve good results. Sawdust from hard miscellaneous woods is better, and it must be piled up and fermented before use. 2. Disinfection of potting soil For potting soil used for indoor aloe cultivation, it is best to disinfect it before use to kill possible insect eggs and pathogens in the medium. Commonly used methods include soil burning disinfection, steam disinfection, and chemical disinfection. (1) Soil burning disinfection: Put the prepared mixed medium on a stove with an iron plate and heat and stir-fry it. Generally, at 80°C, 30 minutes can kill harmful microorganisms and various insect eggs in the medium. (2) Steam disinfection: Put the prepared medium in a container and steam it thoroughly. Ordinary household coal stoves and gas stoves can be used for heating and disinfection. Steam disinfection should be maintained above 80°C; steaming for 2 hours can achieve a thorough disinfection effect. (3) Chemical disinfection: Commonly use 40% formalin. For each cubic meter of culture medium, evenly sprinkle 400-500 milliliters of the solution into the medium, seal and cover it flat with plastic film, leave it for 1-2 days, then open it and air-dry it for 2-3 days. After the solution has evaporated, pot it. 3. Potting and repotting The process of planting cultivated aloe into a flower pot is called potting. Potting time: It should be done in spring and summer. Indoor temperatures of 15-28°C are relatively suitable. Potting method: Selecting seedlings before potting is an important key. Healthy aloe seedlings have short, thick leaves, dark green color, and more than 4 self-roots. When potting, first place some broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage and aeration, then fill in some of the prepared medium, put the aloe into the pot, spread the roots as much as possible, cover the roots with soil, then gently lift the seedling upward a little and press it slightly so that the roots are in close contact with the medium above, below, left, and right, then fill the potting soil to about 2 cm from the pot rim. Finally, slowly water thoroughly into the pot, and potting is complete. After potting, do not water too much. Generally, do not water if not dry; if dry, water thoroughly. Frequently spraying water on aloe leaves can speed up its revival and rooting. Newly potted aloe should also not be exposed to direct sunlight and can be cared for in partial shade. Repotting: Household potted aloe generally needs repotting once every 1-2 years. Spring is also best for repotting. When repotting, correct unpotting technique must be mastered. Turn the potted plant upside down, support the potting soil with your left hand, and strike the pot rim sharply with the palm of your right hand several times, and the pot and old potting soil will naturally separate. Then move the aloe together with the soil ball into a larger new pot, add new potting soil around the pot, then press the potting soil firmly with your hands and water thoroughly. After repotting, it still needs to be cared for in partial shade for a period, and moved to a sunny place only after it has fully recovered. 4. Management and care Household potted aloe management mainly includes three aspects: fertilizing, watering, and winter insulation. Fertilizing: During growth, aloe needs large amounts of elements such as carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and iron, among which carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen come from the air, while other elements are absorbed from the potting medium. In addition, it needs elements such as boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, copper, and chlorine. Although the required amounts are not large, they cannot be replaced by other elements. Scientific fertilizing can supplement nutrition. Watering: In winter, generally water once every 15-20 days, and spray water on the leaves if needed. Water as little as possible and keep the potting soil dry, which is beneficial for the plant to overwinter safely; in spring, generally water once every 5-7 days. Do not water if not dry; if watering, water thoroughly, so the potting soil alternates between dry and moist; in summer, the temperature is relatively high and evaporation is large, so water once every 2-3 days. In addition, spray water on aloe leaves in the morning and evening every day. Also take care to avoid too much scorching sun to reduce water loss; in autumn, the watering method for aloe is basically similar to spring, keeping the potting soil alternately dry and wet. The time for watering is generally best in the early morning and evening, when the water temperature is relatively close to the potting soil temperature, which can avoid affecting root growth due to drastic changes in potting soil temperature caused by watering. Remember: "For potted aloe, better dry than wet." 5. Wintering management (1) Temperature requirements: In the tropical regions of southern China and frost-free areas year-round, such as southern Fujian, the coastal areas of Guangdong, and Hainan, aloe can overwinter safely and naturally, but in other areas winter freeze-protection management must be strengthened. 5°C is the minimum safe line for aloe wintering. Mastering the safe wintering temperature for aloe is one of the key techniques for the success of household potted aloe. (2) Methods to increase and maintain temperature: In regions where winter is not very cold or where indoor heating is available, moving potted aloe indoors generally allows it to overwinter safely. When the temperature cannot be guaranteed to be above 5°C, some corresponding warming measures must be taken. For example, dig rectangular pits (commonly called ground pits), make a simple insulation box, etc. (3) Control watering and increase light: In winter, water as little as possible or not at all, keeping the potting soil dry. If the air is too dry, you can spray water on the leaves. In addition, let potted aloe see as much sunlight as possible.

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9. How to Grow Monstera deliciosa (absorbs carbon dioxide at night, improving air quality) 1) Soil and repotting. When Monstera deliciosa cuttings have rooted and are transplanted into pots, fertile pond mud or black mountain soil can be used. Because it grows rapidly, it needs repotting once a year. Repotting is best done in March to April. When repotting, remove some old soil and dead roots and switch to a pot one size larger. Place some hoof pieces, crushed bones, etc. at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, and fill in a growing medium mixed with 1/3 leaf mold, 1/3 vegetable garden soil, and 1/3 sandy soil. (2) Pay attention to the growing environment. Monstera deliciosa avoids direct scorching sun and is not cold-tolerant. In midsummer it should be placed indoors or under a shade shed, and must not be placed on a balcony with overly strong sunlight, otherwise it easily causes dead leaves and affects ornamental value. When the winter temperature drops to 6°C, it should be moved indoors for warmth. 3) Keep the potting soil moist. Monstera deliciosa likes moisture and needs sufficient water during the growing period. For daily watering, once a day is fine; in summer, once in the morning and once in the evening; in dry weather, it is even more necessary to spray water on the leaves and sprinkle water in the care environment to keep the air and leaves fresh. In winter, water once every 3-4 days. Every 7-10 days, spray the leaves once with clean water close to room temperature to keep the plant evergreen and fresh and improve ornamental value. (4) Fertilize appropriately. Monstera deliciosa is a flowering plant that relatively likes fertilizer. From April to September, apply a dilute cake fertilizer solution once every 15 days; you can also apply decomposed human urine diluted with water. With sufficient fertilizer, the leaf color will be pleasing. In addition, for newly planted and growing plants, set up supports and tie them promptly; after shaping, pay attention to trimming the whole plant, striving for a beautiful plant shape. Let me also tell you a few pest prevention methods, listen carefully! The main pests and diseases harming Monstera deliciosa are scale insects and gray leaf spot. (1) Scale insects. When Monstera deliciosa is grown indoors, if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily appear on stems and leaves, causing loss of ornamental value. When only a few occur, they can be caught manually; when severe, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution. (2) Monstera deliciosa gray leaf spot. It mostly starts from damaged areas at the leaf edges. The disease is more severe after low temperature, smoke, or pest damage. After infection, the lesions first appear as black spots, and after expanding they become elliptical or irregular. The edges are dark brown and the inside is gray-brown. Control methods: ① Strengthen plant care, remove pests promptly, and cut off some diseased leaves. ② When the disease occurs, spray with 70% thiophanate 1000-fold solution or 0.5 equal-strength Bordeaux mixture.

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10. How to Grow Ivy (the champion of formaldehyde absorption) Just water it a little when it is dry. Master the principle of not watering if not dry, and watering thoroughly if dry, and you can grow it well. Ivy can also be grown in water. You can add some nutrient water and grow it in a vase, which is both hygienic and beautiful. Try it quickly!

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11. How to Grow Rubber Plant (an all-rounder at eliminating harmful substances) The rubber plant grows relatively fast! ① Light. Apart from appropriate shading in summer (30-50%), it is best to give sufficient light at other times. ② Temperature. The rubber plant likes high temperatures. The suitable temperature is between 20-32°C, and it must not be lower than 10°C. ③ Humidity. A high-humidity environment is good for growth and will also produce aerial roots, so in addition to normal watering, spray water frequently. Of course, it is best if the growing environment has 75-95% humidity. ④ Watering. It should not be too frequent. It is best to water thoroughly after the surface soil dries. Do not let it be dry for a long time or water only the surface soil. ⑤ Fertilizing. A compound fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer is fine. It can be applied in holes or as a fertilizer solution. However, fertilizing must be done when the ambient temperature is between 18-30°C. ⑥ Pruning. Actually, this step is only to make the plant shape fuller or control growth; instead, it will affect its growth! ⑦ Pest and disease control. Under normal care, there are few pests and diseases. Only when cared for indoors in winter will red spider mites and scale insects cause harm. Special insecticides can be sprayed for control, such as dicofol (red spider mites) and methidathion (scale insects).

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12. How to Grow Asparagus Fern (a protective umbrella that eliminates bacteria and viruses) Asparagus fern, also called cloud bamboo, is a perennial evergreen climbing plant in the genus Asparagus of the lily family. It is native to southern Africa. Ecological habits: Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant and not drought-tolerant. It likes a warm, semi-shaded environment and avoids frost. Asparagus fern has strict requirements for potting soil: it requires loose, fertile, well-drained, and well-aerated soil, and the potting soil is best neutral. It can be prepared with leaf mold, sand, and decomposed fertilizer. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant and also fears heat. The suitable growing temperature is between 15-25°C. It can neither withstand direct sunlight nor stay in a shaded place for too long. Do not water too much; master the watering principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. Applying fertilizer once a month can meet growth needs. One- to two-year-old asparagus fern has the greatest ornamental value. Three-year-old asparagus fern begins to produce branches and tendrils, and supports should be set up for it to climb. If you do not want to set up supports, you can also cut off the climbing branches at the root. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant; the wintering temperature is 10°C.

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Common Questions in Home Flower Growing:

1. Why do the tender leaves of asparagus fern turn scorched black at the tip when they grow to a certain height, while branches and leaves can still grow from the sides? The main reasons for the scorched tips of asparagus fern tender leaves are excessively dry potting soil, insufficient fertilizer, or fertilizer burn. In addition, asparagus fern is originally a climbing plant. When it grows tall, it must have a support or string for it to climb up; otherwise, because the top shoots bend and droop, affecting the supply of water and nutrients, a similar condition can also occur. 2. What diseases is asparagus fern prone to? How should they be prevented and controlled? ① Small branches of asparagus fern turn yellow but do not fall off, mainly caused by insufficient nutrients in the potting soil and malnutrition. Some cases are caused by hard, compacted potting soil, poor aeration, reduced root vitality, and thus affected normal plant growth. In addition to repotting in spring with growing medium rich in organic matter, also frequently loosen the surface of the potting soil and pay attention to strengthening fertilization. ② Asparagus fern leaf tips wither and yellow or fall off, mainly caused by too little watering, the potting soil being too dry, or relative humidity being too low. Keep the potting soil moist often, and frequently spray water on the plant. The water temperature is best the same as room temperature, and place the asparagus fern in a place with high air humidity. During the growing season, apply mixed fertilizer appropriately to make the plant strong and increase resistance. ③ The branch tips of asparagus fern are dark yellow or yellow-green, caused by strong light exposure or excessive watering. Move it to a shaded place or a window with curtains, avoid direct strong light, and also take care not to water too much. ④ Asparagus fern roots rot and branch tips scorch yellow and fall off, mainly caused by being hit by strong winds in hot summer or long-term standing water in the flower pot. Therefore, in summer, special attention should be paid to guarding against thunderstorms or typhoons. 3. Causes of yellowing branches and leaves in potted asparagus fern and control methods? a) Light too strong. Asparagus fern likes semi-shade and avoids strong light. In summer, if it is placed in direct sunlight, the branches and leaves will wither and yellow. Once this happens, move the flower pot to a shady place, and at the same time frequently spray water on the branches and leaves to increase relative humidity. Most plants with mild damage can recover. b) Improper watering. Although asparagus fern likes moisture, it is very afraid of standing water in the pot. Too much water easily causes root rot, and too little water easily dries the leaf tips. If root rot occurs, control watering and loosen the soil frequently. For dry leaf tips, first water a small amount, then gradually increase it, and at the same time spray water on the branches and leaves. c) Insufficient nutrients. Asparagus fern likes fertile soil. If the soil is not changed and fertilizer is not added for a long time, nutrients will be in short supply, and branches and leaves will turn yellow. At this time, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once a week, and water and loosen the soil promptly. d) Improper fertilizing. If the topdressing concentration is too strong or undecomposed fertilizer is applied, it easily causes fertilizer burn, leading to dry and falling leaves. Once fertilizer burn occurs, take the pot out, remove the fertilizer, then rinse the soil ball with clean water and replace it with new growing medium. e) Poor winter management. Asparagus fern likes warmth and should face the sun in winter. If it is placed in a place with insufficient light for a long time at this time, plus poor ventilation and cold, it easily causes branches and leaves to wither and yellow. At this time, move it to a warm place with sunlight, and appropriately control watering, and it can gradually recover to normal. f) Infection by pests and diseases. Once asparagus fern is infected by pests such as scale insects, it will also cause branches and leaves to wither and yellow, and should be controlled promptly.

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13. How to Grow Broadleaf Lady Palm (eliminates heavy metal pollution and carbon dioxide) Broadleaf lady palm, also called Guanyin bamboo, tendon-head bamboo, palm bamboo, and dwarf lady palm, is an evergreen foliage plant in the genus Rhapis of the palm family. Broadleaf lady palm is a clumping shrub with upright stems, 1-3 m tall. The stems are slender like fingers, unbranched, with leaf nodes, wrapped in leaf sheaths with brown net-like fibers. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, palmate, deeply split almost to the base, with 3-12 segments, 20-25 cm long and 1-2 cm wide; the leaf stalks are slender, about 8-20 cm. The spadix is axillary, with small, pale yellow flowers, very numerous, unisexual, dioecious. The flowering period is April to May. The berries are spherical, and the seeds are spherical. Broadleaf lady palm is native to Guangdong, Yunnan, and other places in China, and is also found in Japan. There are more than 20 species in the same genus, mainly distributed in Southeast Asia. It often grows in shaded, moist shrub thickets on hillsides and beside ditches. Cultivated types include large-leaf, medium-leaf, and fine-leaf broadleaf lady palm, and there is also variegated broadleaf lady palm. It likes warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environments, fears scorching sun, and is slightly cold-tolerant, able to withstand low temperatures around 0°C. Broadleaf lady palm can be propagated by seeding and division. Home cultivation is mostly by division. For seeding, use loose, permeable soil as the medium, generally mixing leaf mold with river sand, etc. Before sowing, the seeds can be treated by soaking in warm water (soak in 30-35°C warm water for two days), and sow when the seeds begin to germinate. Because germination is generally uneven, cover with soil slightly deeper after sowing. Generally, they germinate 1-2 months after sowing, and the germination rate can reach about 80%. When the cotyledons of the seedlings reach 8-10 cm long, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that when transplanting, 3-5 plants must be planted as one clump to facilitate survival and growth. Division propagation is generally carried out in spring when repotting. Divide the original plant clump with many tillers into several clumps with a sharp knife. When dividing, damage the roots as little as possible and do not damage the buds, so that each clump contains more than 8-10 plants; otherwise growth will be slow and the ornamental effect poor. After division and potting, place it in partial shade, keep it moist, and frequently spray water on the leaves to prevent the leaves from withering and yellowing. After new branches sprout, move it to a sunny place for care, then carry out normal management. For potted broadleaf lady palm, a medium mixed with equal parts leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand can be used, and an appropriate amount of base fertilizer can be added when planting. During the vigorous growing period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month; the potting soil should be kept moist, better wet than dry, but there must be no standing water, otherwise root rot easily occurs. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce watering. During the growing season, shade is needed, especially in summer when scorching sun must be avoided, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly and short. Generally, shade should be about 50%. Broadleaf lady palm requires a well-ventilated environment for growth. If ventilation is poor, scale insects easily occur. If only a few occur, promptly scrape them off manually and control with 800-fold omethoate solution. At the same time, pay attention to ventilation and promptly prune dead branches and fallen leaves. Broadleaf lady palm has a compact, elegant plant shape, upright clumps, delicate leaf shapes, and dark green glossy leaves. It has both a tropical charm and the unrestrained elegance of bamboo, and is an important indoor foliage plant. It is very shade-tolerant, suitable both as small and medium potted plants for general household indoor display and appreciation, and as large potted plants for indoor arrangement in large buildings. It is one of the large indoor foliage plants. In a bright room, it can be enjoyed for a long time; in a darker room, it can be enjoyed continuously for 3-4 weeks. 2. Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm In the palm family, genus Rhapis, also called Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places. Characteristics Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm. Leaves clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply split, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious. Habits Likes warm, shady, moist, and well-ventilated environments. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30 degrees, and in winter it should be kept above 4 degrees. It can tolerate short-term low temperatures around 0 degrees. Propagation Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Choose a large, dense clump, first take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape, then repot them, water thoroughly, and place them in a semi-shaded, moist place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After growth resumes, they can be transferred to normal care. Seeds are sown in pots as soon as they mature in autumn, moved into a greenhouse in winter, and sprout in the second spring. Key points of hydroponic care 1: It is shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves easily occur, and when ventilation is poor, parasites breed. 2: During the growing period, frequently spray water on the leaves. Method for obtaining hydroponic material It is best to wash the roots from a potted plant. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout slowly, requiring as long as a month and a half.

Precautions

Pay attention to indoor temperature!

Plant Growing

Cultivation and Management of Spathiphyllum floribundum

Plant name: Spathiphyllum floribundum

Latin scientific name: Spathiphyllum floribundum

Alternative names: Green Giant, bract-leaf taro, evergreen white crane taro, peace lily

Family and genus: Araceae, genus Spathiphyllum

Flower meaning: Spathiphyllum floribundum represents success in career and smooth sailing.

Distribution: Native to Colombia.

Spathiphyllum floribundum is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Rhizome short. Leaves leathery, long elliptical, with long pointed tips, 10—20cm long, 5-9cm wide, 70-120 cm tall.

Morphological characteristics

The spadix is upright and fragrant. The spathe is white, broadly lanceolate, 7.5-14 cm long. The leaf surface is dark green, glossy, with obvious veins; the angle between the main vein and branch veins is about 45 degrees, and the lower part of the leaf stalk is sheath-like. The spathe is oblong-lanceolate, white, slightly rolled inward; the spadix is yellow-green or white; it is multi-flowered. The flowering period is spring.

Growth habits

It likes high temperature, high humidity, and loam rich in humus. The suitable growing temperature is 22-28°C. In summer, keep the potting soil moist and provide shade. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 8°C. It is now mostly propagated by tissue culture. It is one of the most shade-tolerant foliage plants. Suitable for decorating living rooms, studies, etc.

Cultivation techniques

It is commonly propagated by division, seeding, and tissue culture. Division can be done in spring when repotting. Because there are many tillers, propagation is relatively fast. Seeding is also suitable and germination is easy, but in the north the seeds do not easily mature, making it difficult to obtain seeds. For mass production, tissue culture can be used; multiplication is very fast and the clumps are neat, making it the currently commonly used propagation method. In summer, place it in appropriate shade to avoid direct sunlight. In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 14°C; below 10°C, the leaves will fall off or appear scorched yellow; maintain the potting soil moist year-round and frequently spray water on the leaves. Keep the relative air humidity above 50%. For home cultivation, place a water tray under the flower pot, or use a humidifier to increase humidity. During the growing period, topdress once every half month.

Cultivation conditions

Temperature: It likes warmth. The suitable growing temperature is 22-28 degrees. Among this, April to September is 24-30 degrees. From October to March of the following year, it is 18-21C. When the temperature is suitable, it can grow all year round. It is not cold-tolerant; the safe wintering temperature is 10. At low temperatures, plant growth is blocked, and the leaf edges and leaf tips turn brown; in severe cases, the aboveground parts wither and scorch yellow.

Light: It likes a semi-shaded environment. When light is too strong, the leaf color becomes dull and loses gloss, and it also causes the leaf tips and leaf edges to scorch and wither. From May to September, shade should be provided, blocking 60%-70% of sunlight. Peace lily has extremely strong shade tolerance and can grow under weak light of 200 lux, and can flower at 500 lux. However, it should not be too shady either; when the light is too dark, the plant grows thin and weak, the leaves droop, the leaf color becomes lighter, and it is not easy to flower.

Watering: It likes a moist soil environment and is not drought-tolerant. During the growing period, sufficient water should be supplied to keep the potting soil moist without drought. However, it should not be too wet or have standing water. When there is too much water, the leaves bend and droop, the leaf color withers and yellows, and root rot may even occur. Watering should follow “alternating dry and wet, leaning toward wet.” In winter, watering should be controlled. Long-term low temperature and wet potting soil easily cause root rot and withered yellow leaves.

Environmental humidity: It likes a moist environment. When the air is dry, newly grown leaves become smaller and yellow, and the leaf tips and leaf edges scorch and wither. Frequently spray water on the leaves and surroundings to keep the environment moist. The relative air humidity should be kept above 50%.

Fertilizing: The plant grows rapidly and has a large number of tillers, so it needs relatively more nutrients to grow well. During the growing period, apply a fertilizer combining nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium once every 1-2 weeks to promote plant growth and flowering. Stop fertilizing in winter.

Repotting: Because it grows fast, repot once every 1-2 years, which can be done before budding in spring. The potting soil should be loose and well-drained; heavy clay soil is not suitable for planting. The medium can be prepared with materials such as leaf mold, garden soil, peat soil, coarse sand, or rice husk ash.

Pest and disease control

1. Physiological diseases of Green Giant

Green Giant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous shade plant in the genus Spathiphyllum of the Araceae family.

The Peace Lily grows and develops quickly and needs a timely supply of balanced fertilizer. Usually, applying a three-element compound fertilizer containing only nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium cannot meet its growth and development requirements. Especially for Peace Lilies over 50 cm tall, applying too much phosphate fertilizer easily induces excessive tillering and offsets, while excessive nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, together with insufficient magnesium, calcium, iron, boron, molybdenum and zinc, will cause malformed young leaves, wrinkled, twisted and split leaf surfaces, and easily trigger a large outbreak of stem rot (commonly known as black head disease) and heart rot.

Prevention and control method: "prevention first." Throughout the entire cultivation process, according to the nutrients needed for the growth and development of the Peace Lily, use formula fertilization or apply the "Peace Lily cultivation solution" prepared by this clinic. Years of trials have proven that applying the "Peace Lily cultivation solution" can effectively prevent leaf malformation in Peace Lilies. For plants that have already developed malformed, wrinkled and split leaves, after applying the "Peace Lily cultivation solution," the 2nd to 3rd newly grown leaves can return to normal.

2. Peace Lily stem rot and heart rot

Stem rot and heart rot are very harmful to the Peace Lily. Some growers have 30—50% of their plants infected by these two diseases, causing great economic losses. Both stem rot and heart rot belong to "soil fungal diseases." During cultivation, if the soil is not thoroughly sterilized and carries fungi, and the plant's own disease resistance declines, the diseases will break out severely. In addition, during fertilization, excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer, or a deficiency of a certain element, is also an important cause of disease occurrence.

Prevention and control method: thoroughly sterilize the cultivation substrate (for each cubic meter of growing soil, generally 10 kg of 2% formaldehyde is used for spraying and fumigation to achieve sterilization). At the same time, adopt the formula fertilization method, or fertilize with the Peace Lily cultivation solution mixed with compound fertilizer. This not only lowers costs but also prevents and controls disease occurrence. In addition, regularly spray the stems of the Peace Lily with highly targeted fungicides. Through comprehensive prevention and control measures, the incidence of black head disease and heart rot can be kept below one in a thousand.

Landscape use

The Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) is evergreen in all four seasons, with pure white flowers that give a cool and comfortable feeling. In addition, it is highly adaptable to indoor environments, has few pests and diseases, and is simple to cultivate and manage, making it a very popular indoor potted flower. Moreover, both its flowers and leaves can be used as cut flower materials.

Effects

The Peace Lily has a full plant form, verdant leaves, and a large, prominent white spathe held high above the leaf surface like a raised palm, hence the name white palm; it also resembles a white sail riding the wind and waves, thus earning the name "smooth sailing," and it is very beautiful. In Europe it is regarded as the "flower of innocence." The Peace Lily has strong shade tolerance and can be placed continuously in relatively dark indoor areas for several weeks without much effect, making it an excellent indoor ornamental plant with both beautiful foliage and flowers. Its flowers are also excellent cut flower materials.

The Peace Lily can absorb ammonia, acetone, benzene and formaldehyde from the air, helping to keep the air fresh.

Care and management

The Peace Lily, also known as Spathiphyllum and green giant white palm, is a perennial evergreen shade-loving herbaceous foliage plant of the Araceae family. The Peace Lily has a relatively short but thick stem, few tillers, and can reach 1 m in height. It is a large variety in the Spathiphyllum series, with broad leaves, thick petioles, and dark green, glossy leaf color. Its spathe is large and long spoon-shaped, shaped like a palm, rising above the leaf surface. It opens white and later turns green, with the flowering period in late spring and early summer.

The Peace Lily has an upright, elegant, majestic and spectacular plant form, and is a green foliage plant. Because of its good shade tolerance, it is suitable for beautifying and decorating hotels, restaurants and family rooms. As the plant continues to grow, its ornamental value increases accordingly, so it is deeply loved by those who grow flowers in apartment rooms.

The Peace Lily is native to Colombia. It likes warmth and fears cold, and is suitable for growing in moist and semi-shaded slightly acidic soil. It avoids drought, high temperatures and direct sunlight. The Peace Lily has a relatively wide temperature adaptation range. The optimum growth temperature is 18-25°C. Around 5°C has little effect on it. Below 5°C it must be placed indoors for warmth. At 30-C or slightly higher, as long as it is not exposed to direct sunlight, is shaded, and is given sufficient water, it can still grow normally. However, it should not be placed in a shaded indoor spot for a long time, as this will also cause poor plant growth and reduce its ornamental value. Generally, it is best to grow it in a shaded place.

Because the Peace Lily has large leaves and a developed root system, it has a high demand for water. If it is slightly short of water, the leaves wilt. If the water shortage is severe, it will cause dehydration and scorched leaves, and it is difficult to recover. It is necessary to ensure sufficient soil moisture and maintain relatively high air humidity, but there must be no waterlogging, otherwise it will cause root rot and leaf wilting. In the hot and dry summer, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, also spray the leaf surface. On the one hand, this can wash off dust from the leaves; on the other hand, it can lower the temperature and preserve moisture.

The Peace Lily is mainly propagated by division, preferably carried out in spring and autumn. Take the original plant out of the pot, carefully separate the small young plants from the tillers, plant them separately in a pot, water thoroughly to settle the roots, and maintain them in a semi-shaded environment. For growing flowers in apartment rooms, the division propagation method is generally preferred.

There is another method that can make the Peace Lily sprout quickly. Take a poorer plant that is about to wilt and dry out from the flower pot, scrape away the rotted part of the roots with a sharp knife, keep the good part and bury it in sand, water it thoroughly once, and place it where there is no direct sunlight. When the sand dries, water it thoroughly. After about half a month of care, it can grow 2—3 cun of sheath leaves, then pot it and carry out normal management. In this way, more plants can be obtained.