Fatsia japonica pruning time, methods and follow-up care to make the plant shape more beautiful

Some people think that growing Fatsia japonica is relatively easy, and that it basically needs little pruning to maintain good growth, but botanists tell us that if you want to maximize the ornamental value among the effects and functions of Fatsia japonica, you still need to prune it regularly. So how do you prune Fatsia japonica? Let me give you the answer.

How to prune Fatsia japonica

When growing Fatsia japonica, we may find that even without pruning, its plant shape does not become particularly messy, but if you want to control the height of the plant and control the growth direction of the branches, pruning is one of the best methods. So how do you prune Fatsia japonica? The answer is as follows.

1. When to prune

Generally speaking, there are no strict restrictions on pruning time, but there are two situations that are relatively fixed, such as pinching after the seedling growth stage, and pruning diseased leaves when pests and diseases appear. In addition, when we feel the plant shape is not beautiful enough, we can also prune.

Note: Try not to prune in winter, because pruning will cause some wounds on the plant. In winter, due to the lower temperature, these wounds heal relatively slowly, and the plant may suffer invasion by pathogens, so try to prune when the temperature is above 12°C.

2. How to prune

1. Control height

If you want to control the height, how do you prune Fatsia japonica? The answer is to cut back the main trunk. Cut off the upper part of the branches near the fork at the upper part of the plant, and new buds will grow from the nodes, thus forming a natural tree shape and allowing the plant height to be controlled.

2. Plant shaping

Sometimes we inevitably encounter the problem of dried-up leaves on Fatsia japonica. Some dried leaves seriously affect the beauty of Fatsia japonica, so we should cut off these dried leaves, which can reduce some of the same small ones and at the same time allow other leaves to get more sufficient light.

Note: Cutting off dried leaves is only to make the plant more beautiful, but at the same time we must analyze the cause of the dried leaves. If the drying is abnormal, be sure to find the cause and solve it promptly to avoid more leaves drying up.

3. Pruning when repotting

Potted Fatsia japonica should be repotted once every 1-2 years. During repotting, in addition to pruning its plant shape, you can also prune its roots, because some roots may rot or become diseased during the growing process, and these old roots and diseased roots need to be cut off promptly.

3. Care after pruning

1. Fertilizer sprinkled on leaves and stems

When pruning, some wounds will be left on the stems and branches. This is unavoidable. Before the wounds heal, do not spray fertilizer near the wounds, as that will affect the healing speed of the wounds.

2. Keep the soil moist

After pruning, Fatsia japonica will gradually grow new buds and branches, so we must keep the soil moist to provide a favorable growing environment for the new buds.

Care measures for the southern plant date palm

Part One: "Southern Plant Organization"

Frangipani

Frangipani, its flowers really look like eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like the egg white and yolk, and they are really cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the top of the branches. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegance, and it is very suitable for people to admire carefully. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its shape is very beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment with plenty of sunlight and good drainage. It is vigorous by nature and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but it is also resistant to alkalinity. Cultivation is best with deep, fertile, well-aerated acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting frangipani, you should also pay attention to pest and disease control. For example, if small brown spots appear on the leaves or even the leaves turn dark black, that is frangipani angular leaf spot, and at this time you should pay attention and take measures. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so frangipani needs your care and attention. In fact, in addition to white, frangipani also comes in red and yellow. All can extract essence for making high-grade cosmetics, soap and food additives, and the price is quite high, with great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for brewing tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effect of treating heat dysentery and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The frangipani tree has a beautiful shape, with many branches on the stem, strange and varied, in a thousand postures; the leaves resemble loquat, and after falling in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branch tips, much like antlers decorated with beautiful spots. It can be called the top choice small tree for landscaping, courtyard arrangement and potted viewing in tropical areas. The bark is thin and grayish green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used for external application to treat scabies, redness and swelling and other symptoms. The wood is white, light and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware or furniture. Frangipani flower language: breeding hope, resurrection, new life, as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, losing distance.

Yulan magnolia

Yulan magnolia is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray bark, rough and cracked; branchlets slightly stout, grayish brown; winter buds and pedicels densely covered with pale grayish yellow long silky hairs. Leaves papery, obovate, broadly obovate or obovate-elliptic, with elliptic leaves on vigorous shoots at the base. Yulan magnolia flowers are very much like lotus flowers. When in full bloom, the petals spread in all directions, making the courtyard appear in patches of blue-white, with dazzling white light, and it has high ornamental value; combined with bursts of delicate fragrance, refreshing the heart, it is truly an ideal flower type for beautifying courtyards. Yulan magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open field. It loves dryness and avoids low humidity; waterlogging at the planting site easily causes root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Yulan magnolia has strong resistance to harmful gases. For example, if this flower is planted in a factory polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. With artificial fumigation using sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 g of sulfur. Therefore, Yulan magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant landscaping tree species for areas with air pollution. Yulan magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant and not tolerant of strong light and west-facing sun. Too strong light or west-facing sun can easily scorch the trees. Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer. In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously, with green and thick leaves, not only many buds, but also large flowers, a long flowering period and rich fragrance. Yulan magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance. The main diseases include anthracnose, chlorosis and leaf scorch. In addition to ornamental value, Yulan magnolia also has medicinal value and edible value. Yulan magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid, etc., and also contain magnoflorine, alkaloids, yulan magnolia element, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A and other components, and have certain medicinal value. The flowers of Yulan magnolia are pungent in taste and warm in nature, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, opening the orifices, and ventilating the lungs and nose. They can be used for headache, blood stasis type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis and other conditions. Modern pharmacological studies show that Yulan magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.

Yulan magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks, and can also be brewed as tea. The flower language of Yulan magnolia represents gratitude. Yulan magnolia often blooms large white flowers amid lush greenery, and with its fragrant scent it makes people feel an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because its plant is tall and the flowering position is relatively high, it sways in the wind, full of spirit, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, very lovely.

Maranta

Maranta is a herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, leaves are solitary, relatively large, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with pinnate veins arranged in two rows, entire. Maranta is a relatively good groundcover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant and likes a warm, humid and brightly lit environment. It is not cold-tolerant, nor drought-tolerant, and fears scorching sun exposure. If exposed to direct sunlight, it will scorch the leaves, causing local scorching at the leaf edges, stopping the growth of new leaves, and turning the leaf color yellow. Therefore, shading should be noted during cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water. During the growing period, it should be watered fully to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." It requires enough careful attention all 365 days. If the environment fluctuates greatly for a few days, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of maranta seedling traders and producers. Plants in the Marantaceae family do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies, etc. Of course, it also has other values, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta starch is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings and desserts. Add water and boil to form a transparent, odorless and tasty paste. Maranta starch is fine in texture. Compared with other starches, it can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest. It is especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and is also suitable for making light-flavored, low-salt and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. Bark dark gray or light grayish brown, much branched. Young branches reddish brown, densely covered with stellate hairs. Leaves leathery, alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, apex shortly acute, base rounded and oblique, asymmetrical, both surfaces with stellate hairs, entire, dark red. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. It has strong sprouting and branching ability and is tolerant of pruning. It tolerates poor soil, but is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has luxuriant branches and leaves and a beautiful posture. It is tolerant of pruning and wiring, and can be used for hedges and for making stump bonsai. During the flowering season, the whole tree is full of red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, and new leaves are bright red. Different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the main considerations are the two factors of leaf color and leaf size, bringing about leaf color contrast and forming color contrast, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometrid moths, yellow noctuid moths, black cutworm moths, large and small cutworms, and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum: anthracnose, damping-off, mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear

as black round spots, or nearly round, causing early defoliation. Damage is severe in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinomycetes. The pathogen overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the primary infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, you must treat it promptly.

Ornamental peach

Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree, 3-8 m tall; crown broad and spreading; bark dark reddish brown, rough and scaly when old; branchlets slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with many small lenticels; winter buds conical, apex obtuse, covered with short pubescence, often clustered 2-3 together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on both sides. Leaves oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight and is drought-tolerant, and does not tolerate humid environments. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, and can overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile soil with good drainage. It does not like waterlogging. If planted in low-lying waterlogged places, seedling death is likely. Garden value: ornamental peach has large flowers and brilliant color, beautiful when blooming, with an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping, it is widely used at lakesides, streams, both sides of roads and parks, etc. In small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted viewing, and is also often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. There is also the common weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, and shows particularly good results in the year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in groups, or as a specimen, and shows particularly good greening effects in the same year. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colored nursery stock in landscaping, and is usually used together with nursery stock such as purple-leaf plum and purple-leaf dwarf cherry. Flowering shrubs are combined in planting to form a scene of a hundred flowers blooming. In addition to ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted from the peach trunk, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive, etc. It is a kind of polysaccharide substance, and hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid, etc. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood, harmonizing blood and boosting qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases include: white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl. The main pests include aphids, red spiders, scale insects, red-necked longhorn beetles, etc.

Artificial plant communities

1. Rhododendron indicum + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' + thornless Ilex cornuta ball

These four plants have strong adaptability and are widely planted in Fuzhou. Three plants with different leaf colors are planted linearly, making the leaf colors rich. Together with large-specification thornless Ilex cornuta balls, they form a neat, full and clearly layered roadside greening color band effect.

2. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Photinia × fraseri ball + Michelia figo + Acer palmatum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability. Its leaf color and flower color are both beautiful. Photinia × fraseri balls have old leaves in green dotted with new leaves in red, setting each other off, extremely beautiful. The four plants are combined with rich layers, forming a landscape road with vertical rhythm and spatial hierarchy, and a strong sense of guidance.

3. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fatsia japonica + Canary Island date palm + Frangipani

This combination of plants is mainly green, with leaves both small (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) and large (Fatsia japonica, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a touch of tropical flavor. The layers are rich, and it has the effect of narrowing the space, making people feel close.

4. Moso bamboo + Iris

Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a scattered bamboo, and the culms are spaced at intervals. Iris has a beautiful posture and colorful flowers. The two combined together are very charming.

5. Small-leaf gardenia + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Aucuba japonica + Osmanthus fragrans

Small-leaf gardenia has leaves like a sparrow's tongue, and the plant is low, so it can be used as the lowest layer plant. Aucuba japonica has yellow spots in its leaf color and is a relatively good foliage plant, while the tree Osmanthus fragrans has fragrant flowers that refresh the heart. The combination has spacing and density, changes in leaf color, and added floral fragrance.

6. Rhododendron obtusum + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fagraea ceilanica + Canna

Rhododendron obtusum has brilliant flowers, and with Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and Fagraea ceilanica as a foil, it is even more moving. Canna has large leaves, narrowing the space and making people feel close.

7. Groundcover lawn + Tagetes erecta + Photinia × fraseri + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum ball + Osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus

With green groundcover as the base, the bright yellow flowers of Tagetes erecta are extremely beautiful. With Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and red Photinia as a foil behind Tagetes erecta, and Osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus with a spreading tree shape. Several plants set each other off, with rich variation.

8. Ophiopogon japonicus + Guava tree

Both Ophiopogon japonicus and guava tree have very good adaptability in Fuzhou and grow normally. The leaves are fine and soft, making them very suitable as groundcover. The guava tree has yellow, smooth bark, a beautiful posture, and relatively large leaves with a well-spaced arrangement, making it very suitable for open woodland paths.

9. Lawn + Agave americana 'Marginata' + pruned and shaped Ficus microcarpa + Senna bicapsularis

With green lawn as the base, Agave has thick and large leaves, with leaf color alternating between silver-yellow and green, and it is very coordinated when combined with shaped Ficus microcarpa, while Senna bicapsularis has a beautiful posture and brilliant flower color. This combination of several plants has rich layers, with color changes but coordination.

10. Ophiopogon bodinieri + Rhapis excelsa + Areca lutescens + Papaya tree

This plant configuration is suitable for one side of a small building. Ophiopogon bodinieri has fine, soft leaf shapes, while Rhapis excelsa and Areca lutescens have thicker and larger leaves, and papaya leaves are large and palm-shaped, with fruit borne on the main trunk, and its posture is very beautiful.

11. Acalypha wilkesiana + Duranta erecta + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

As a plant combination for carpet flower beds, Acalypha wilkesiana has bright leaf color and is used as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has dark purple leaf color. The three plants combined as a carpet flower bed are extremely attractive.

Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"

Landscaping maintenance management plan

Maintenance management is very important in landscaping. It is a long-term, repeated task with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and livestock, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grass and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, flower bed planting, etc. The completion of landscaping green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.

Current characteristics of plants in the park:

1. The greening area is about 2,454,190,000 sq m, with a high greening coverage rate, and there are a large number of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned shaped shrubs. The initial growth has gradually taken shape. After careful inspection by us, the plant planting characteristics are roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:

1) Plaza area: The plant planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted with rows of ginkgo, Phoebe zhennan and large trees, appropriately combined with low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.

2) Factory area: The plant planting variety combination in this area is complex, with large and small trees, shrubs and groundcover plants interplanted.

At the entrance, relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, Jacaranda mimosifolia, small-leaf Ficus microcarpa stumps,

premium Osmanthus fragrans, etc.) are dominant. Whether the office area courtyard can still maintain its elegant and refined, spacious and grand

scenery, and whether the hotel villa area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely and relaxed atmosphere,

all depends on later maintenance and management.

2. From the greening conditions in the longitudinal area, we can find the following problems: ① Shaped shrubs are not growing well and their shapes are monotonous; ② Flowering shrubs have poor tree vigor, and their flowering conditions (including the number of flowers, flower size, color, and secondary flowering) are unsatisfactory; ③ The lawn has many weeds, and in some areas the grass weeds have a tendency to spread unchecked; ④ There are pest and disease problems.

1. We plan to take the following corrective measures:

1. Promote three-dimensional horticulture and carry out multi-style shaping of hedges and shrubs. For flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to promote their growth and then shape them according to their form, which depends on the specific plant growth and plant shape; in some areas the hedges are highly regular, and the neat uniform long strips undoubtedly make the courtyard, which should be free and leisurely, appear mechanical and rigid. We can similarly try pruning them into wave shapes to match the relaxed and casual residential landscaping, enlivening the atmosphere of the entire courtyard and also creating a more fluid living environment.

2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing pest and disease characteristics, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.

5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the workload of manual pulling. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilizer; different plants in different seasons all have different fertilization methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We classify and count all plants, then make green labels indicating their

3、

4、

family, genus and species, and living habits, and label all plants in the area. In this way,

we can enrich employees' general knowledge of plants, add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and with eye-catching labels

make greening receive more attention.

6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of one morning or one evening. While doing the corrective work well, we will also adopt different maintenance and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month

(detailed rules attached), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to the extreme, and

we also ask Party A to offer more opinions so that our work can gradually become more perfect and complete.

7. Maintenance responsibilities

Within the contracted maintenance period, our company will, in accordance with landscaping maintenance operating procedures and landscaping maintenance quality standards, organize reasonably, maintain carefully, and send professional horticulturists to organize, guide and arrange management and protection work, and flexibly send no fewer than ____ experienced workers according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, to complete the maintenance management task with quality and quantity guaranteed.

6. Maintenance content

1. Management procedures: including watering, opening basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, replanting (nursery stock costs calculated separately), etc., the whole process. {Care measures for the southern plant date palm}.

2. Management tools:

A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shovels, lawn mowers

B. Sprayers, buckets, wheelbarrows, bamboo baskets

C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders

D. Fuel, maintenance costs

3. Maintenance content:

A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per plant, topdress once, 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application and spraying, water-soluble fertilizer, etc., then cover with soil, water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, timely prevent and control pests and diseases, maintain the natural growth state of the trees, with no need for shaping and pruning, timely cut off yellow branches, diseased and pest branches, shaded leggy branches and drooping branches that hinder vehicle passage, and timely clean up pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure no weeds.

B. Shrubs, hedges, bagged seedlings: fertilize once each quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, timely prevent and control pests and diseases, prune into round, square or conical shapes, with minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth and beautiful cuts, timely remove pruned material, timely cut off dead branches, diseased and pest branches, timely replant old and diseased dead plants, and remove weeds once a week.

C. Herbaceous types: fertilize once each quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, timely prevent and control pests and diseases, cut off spent flowers once a week and remove weeds once a week, and timely cut off dead branches and yellow branches.

D. Taiwan grass: fertilize once each quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, with uniform fertilization and thorough watering, with water penetration depth of more than 5 cm, timely prevent and control pests and diseases, timely replant wilted and dead missing parts, with coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times a month.

(2) Specific annual landscaping maintenance work arrangement:

January: the month with the lowest temperature in the whole year, and open-field trees are in a dormant state.

1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, diseased and pest branches on large and small trees, and branches that hinder overhead lines and buildings.

2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking conditions of street trees, and immediately rectify when loosened ties, wire embedded in bark, or loose stakes are found.

3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. You can dig up the pupae and cocoons of slug moths in the loose soil under the trees and burn them in a concentrated way. In mid-January, scale insects begin to become active, but at this time they move slowly, and we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the trunk. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.

4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be timely weeded and edged; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.

February: the temperature rises somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.

1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.

2. Pruning: continue pruning dead branches and diseased branches of large and small trees. Complete pruning of all kinds of trees before the end of the month.

3. Pest control: continue to focus on preventing slug moths and scale insects.

March: the temperature continues to rise. After mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellia) bloom.

1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, complete planning and design, and dig the tree pits in advance, so that digging, transporting, planting and watering are done promptly in sequence. When planting shrubs, also dig, transport and plant promptly, and water fully to improve seedling survival rate.

2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, in order to prevent spring drought, green spaces and other areas should be watered promptly.

3. Fertilization: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Care measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some nursery stock showed sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller also appeared (control by spraying pesticides such as fenitrothion). For slug moth control, the method of digging pupae can continue to be used.

April: the temperature continues to rise, and trees all sprout and bloom or unfold leaves and begin to enter a vigorous growth period.

1. Continue planting trees: in early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late, promptly remove and replant shrubs that died in winter (azalea, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, etc.), and water newly planted trees fully.

2. Irrigation: continue to water maintained green spaces promptly.

3. Fertilization: for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as topdressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

4. Pruning: cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and prune evergreen hedges.

5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects successively move into bark cracks, tree holes, tree trunk bases, wall corners and other places, secrete white waxy thin cocoons and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom, then buried deeply in a concentrated way or soaked. Or use the method of spraying pesticides such as fenitrothion. (2) Longhorn beetles begin to become active. You can use a grafting knife or self-made steel wire to remove the larvae, but the wounds should be as small as possible. (3) Prevention and control of other pests and diseases.

6. Maintenance in green spaces: pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.

May: the temperature rises sharply, and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: during the peak leaf expansion period, trees have a very large water demand and should be watered in a timely manner.

May: temperatures rise sharply and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: this is the peak period of leaf expansion, when trees need a great deal of water, so water them in a timely manner.

2. Pruning: Remove spent flowers. Carry out the first bud removal pruning on street trees.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of slug moths has hatched but has not yet reached a harmful level; take appropriate measures based on the actual conditions in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects and aphids has also entered its peak period (on crape myrtle, pittosporum, oleander, etc.). In mid-to-late May, spray 10-20 times diluted rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500-2000 times dilution to prevent disease and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can also be used.)

June: High temperatures

1. Watering: Plants have high water demand; water promptly and do not "rely on the weather."

2. Fertilizing: Combine with loosening soil and weeding, fertilizing, and watering to achieve the best results.

3. Pruning: Continue bud removal and sucker removal on street trees. Prune hedges, topiary balls, and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palms}.

4. Drainage: During heavy rain, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.

5. Pest and disease control: In mid-to-late June, slug moths enter their peak hatching period; measures should be taken promptly. Currently, 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500-800 times dilution is generally used for spraying. (Or compound BT emulsion can be used for spraying.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.

6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees; right, reinforce, and re-tie loose or leaning trees.

July: Highest temperatures; after mid-month, strong winds and heavy rain will occur.

1. Transplanting evergreen trees: During the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes; water promptly when high temperatures occur.

2. Drainage: Drain promptly after heavy rain.

3. Top dressing: Apply nitrogen fertilizer and other quick-acting fertilizers dry before rain.

4. Street trees: Carry out typhoon-prevention bud removal pruning; prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and check each tree stump one by one; right and tie tightly any that are loose or unstable. Prepare in advance for labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and assign personnel to inspect at all times, handling dangerous situations promptly.

5. Pest and disease control: Continue controlling longhorn beetles and slug moths. For longhorn beetles, inject 50% fenitrothion at 1:50 dilution (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the hole, which can also achieve good results. For camphor tree borer (Camphor shoot borer), promptly prune and destroy the pest nests to prevent further damage.

August: Still the rainy season

1. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain low-lying waterlogged areas promptly.

2. Typhoon prevention for street trees: Continue doing a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.

3. Pruning: In addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning on hedges.

4. Cultivation and weeding: Weeds also grow vigorously; weed promptly, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding.

5. Pest and disease control: Focus on catching longhorn beetles; pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Control aphid damage and camphor tree borer promptly. In humid weather, watch for powdery mildew and rot disease; take measures promptly. September: Temperatures decline somewhat; do related work for National Day.

1. Pruning: In preparation for city appearance work, remove buds below the third branching level of street trees. Shaping pruning of hedges. Weeding in green spaces, lawn edging, promptly remove dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and tidy.

2. Fertilizing: For trees with weaker growth and insufficiently filled branches, apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

3. Pest and disease control: Shot hole disease (on cherry blossoms, peaches, plums, etc.) is at its peak; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to move to the roots to cause damage; pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control wood borers on poplars and willows. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.

4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all types of landscaping facilities.

October: Temperatures drop; in late October, early winter begins; trees start to shed leaves and gradually enter dormancy.

1. Prepare for autumn planting; in late October, once cold-hardy trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.

2. Green space maintenance: Promptly remove dead trees and water promptly. Do a good job of weeding and edging in green spaces and lawns. Fertilize flowering plants with poor growth.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree borer. November: Soil begins to freeze at night and thaw during the day; entering deep winter.

1. Tree planting: Continue planting cold-hardy plants; complete before the soil freezes.

2. Soil turning: Turn the soil in green spaces to expose overwintering pests.

3. Watering: Water dry, compacted soil; complete before the ground freezes.

4. Pest and disease control: Various pests prepare to overwinter in late November; control tasks are relatively light.

December: Low temperatures; begin winter maintenance work.

1. Winter pruning: Prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.

2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

3. Prepare for next year's adjustment work: After deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and map out the positions to be adjusted.

VII. Green space maintenance quality objectives

1. Landscaping maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no bare yellow soil.

2. Garden plants

2.1 Normal growth. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replacement seedlings must survive within one year.

2.2 Garden tree crowns are basically complete, with main and lateral branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, reasonably pruned, the interior not chaotic, ventilated and light-transmitting. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves, neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green spaces.

2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth, and leaf size and color are normal. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect excretions or webs must not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Conifer-

Part Three: "Annual Landscaping Maintenance Plan"

Annual Landscaping Maintenance Plan

January

1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning on various deciduous trees, cutting off dry branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and lower lateral branches, to ensure tree development tends toward reasonableness, improve branch morphology, and reduce pest and disease breeding.

2. Appropriately thin trees that are too densely growing, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth.

3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and apply winter fertilizer to all trees, ground cover, and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.

4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. Dig up slug moth pupae and cocoons in the loose soil under trees and burn them in a concentrated manner.

5. As appropriate, scarify certain types of lawns and prune 1-2 times. February

1. Carry out weeding, pruning, and fertilizing work on lawns.

2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on Mahonia confusa and the mealybug on coral trees and Fatsia japonica.

3. Particularly strengthen cold protection and insulation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening soil and hilling soil around tree roots.

4. Apply a top dressing (urea) to cool-season lawns at the end of the month at 10g/mu.

March

1. To prevent spring drought, water trees promptly.

2. Promptly mow lawns and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.

3. Pest and disease control: Strengthen observation and inspection, and do a good job of forecasting, prediction, and control. Pay special attention to sooty mold and boxwood leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapple species and cool-season lawns; pay attention to prevention reports.

4. For local depressions and low-lying spots in lawns, apply soil and sand cover; carry out low pruning on winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the sprouting and growth of the underlying grass.

April

1. Do a good job of loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilizing for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to herbaceous perennials and spring-sown flowering plants; for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

2. Cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring; begin pruning evergreen hedges.

3. Pest and disease control: Mainly control aphids, sooty mold, and beetles. Keep relevant records.

May

1. This month is the peak period for trees to unfold leaves, with very high water demand; water in a timely manner.

2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and Malus halliana, and promptly carry out bud removal on plane trees, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle, and other trees.

3. Weed flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out weeding work on lawns and promptly prune lawn grass to control its height.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, prediction, and control.

June

1. Water plants promptly to ensure sufficient water supply.

2. Loosen soil and weed tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out weeding work on lawns.

3. Prune lawns promptly and control their growth height, and pay attention to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply compound fertilizer once to lawns with poor growth or lacking fertilizer, so they can safely pass the summer.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, prediction, and control.

July

1. In high-temperature weather, especially ensure that plant watering work is implemented.

2. Loosen soil and weed flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity; weeds grow quickly. Seize the opportunity to weed and remove grass to prevent grass from running wild; continue cultivation, weeding, and loosening the soil.

3. Earnestly do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention; reinforce and secure trees in the garden to prevent lodging; promptly dredge and drain low-lying or severely waterlogged areas.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, prediction, and control.

August

1. Carry out summer pruning on evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning on hedges.

2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously; weed and prune promptly, control lawn height, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding. Promptly supplement and top-dress fertilizer, mainly P and K fertilizers, combined with N fertilizer. For small seedlings, shrubs, and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently; at the same time, pay attention to mastering the fertilization period and climate.

3. In high-temperature weather, be sure to ensure daily watering and drought relief work; do not choose 10:00-15:00 to do it, to avoid burning seedlings. (Includes: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)

4. Continue doing a good job of typhoon and flood prevention; further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge drainage ditches in low-lying and easily waterlogged areas to prevent water from accumulating for too long.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, prediction, and control.

September

1. Carry out shaping pruning on hedges. Weed in green spaces and promptly remove dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and tidy.

2. Thin trees that are too densely growing, and at the same time carry out bud removal work.

3. Promptly prune lawns, edge them, and remove weeds, and pay attention to pest and disease control work.

4. Weed flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover, and collect flower seeds.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, prediction, and control.

October

1. Prune spherical shrubs to ensure a beautiful appearance, neatness, and clear layering. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend toward reasonableness and their tree posture and appearance are improved.

2. Strengthen management of newly planted flowering plants, promptly fill gaps and water, and fertilize those with poor growth.

3. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and prediction, actively control, and keep relevant records. November

1. Carry out thinning and pruning on evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light transmission, reducing pests and diseases, and enhancing growth.

2. Do a good job of weeding and edging in flower beds, color-block shrubs, and green spaces, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant bare spots. As appropriate, adjust trees in the local layout; some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species can be transplanted. Begin cold protection and warmth work; for trees with

poor cold resistance, wrap with straw and hill up soil.

3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. As appropriate, scarify and aerate lawns, and prune 2-3 times at the same time.

4. Carry out fertilization work in late November, combining increased application of organic fertilizer with soil turning in green spaces.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and prediction, actively control, and keep relevant records. December

1. Do a good job of weeding and edging in color-block shrubs and green spaces, and promptly pull out weeds.

2. Carry out thinning and pruning on evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly removing residual stumps and dead branches, in order to make next year's tree growth better (do not prune flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds), and at the same time pay attention to cleaning pest cocoons on trunks and branches.

3. Wrap sago palms, date palms, and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they safely overwinter.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and prediction, actively control, and keep relevant records.

Part Four: "Latest Common Southern Landscape Plants"

Common Garden Plants in Southern Landscapes

Evergreen trees:

Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, big-leaf mahogany, Sterculia lanceolata, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Michelia macclurei, golden shower tree, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fokien cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Buddhist pine, long-leaf podocarp, white champaca, southern magnolia, houpo magnolia, cinnamon, camphor tree, cinnamon, Catalpa, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, siamese cassia, red camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree, Hong Kong orchid tree, almond, mango, Ormosia henryi, water banyan, water stone banyan, avocado, dwarf umbrella tree, false betel nut, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, sapodilla, lemon eucalyptus, river red gum, large-leaf eucalyptus, blue gum, cajuput, butterfly fruit, Chinese torreya, Chinese plum yew, Indian rubber fig, banyan, small-leaf fig, large-fruit fig, weeping fig, yellow-bark fig, sacred fig, beefwood, jackfruit, camphor-leaf maple, sweet oak, blue Japanese oak, candlenut, silver birch, Elaeocarpus apiculatus, large-leaf elaeocarpus, sea hibiscus, iron holly, glossy privet, osmanthus, loquat, albizia, royal palm, fish-tail palm, desert fan palm, sugar palm, date palm, autumn maple, red sandalwood, Dillenia indica, jackfruit, yellow locust, jackfruit, large-leaf privet, Michelia chapensis, Schefflera octophylla, Heteropanax fragrans

Deciduous trees:

Small-leaf terminalia, Chinese swamp cypress, water winter melon, Chinese tallow, Japanese raisin tree, sand pear, soapberry, goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, Chinese tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, camptotheca, large-flower crape myrtle, beautiful silk floss tree, flame tree, peacock flower, jacaranda, yellow locust, chinaberry, Chinese mahogany, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, acacia, Kalopanax, sweetgum, weeping willow, Magnolia soulangeana, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, papaya, Indian

rosewood, red-leaf plum

Evergreen shrubs:

Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, orchid tree, large-leaf boxwood, Elaeagnus pungens, camellia sasanqua, sweet viburnum, gold-dust dracaena, Hypericum, three-stamen areca, areca palm, Chinese fan palm, four-season orchid tree, golden trumpet, Justicia, red bottlebrush, Fukien tea, gardenia, crown of thorns, poinsettia, Yunnan jasmine, aucuba, Chinese holly, azalea, ti plant, croton, red mulberry, golden-edge mulberry, golden-leaf fig, Senna, Rhododendron ovatum, Ardisia, orange jasmine, red-back eucalyptus, climbing ylang-ylang, camellia, oil tea, large-leaf tea, oleander, yellow oleander, small-flower golden trumpet, snow-in-summer, Michelia figo, pittosporum, Mahonia, nandina, Fatsia japonica, magnolia coco, Chinese hibiscus, lantern flower, rhododendron, yucca, yucca, South China boxwood, lady palm, soft-leaf date palm, short-spike fishtail palm, dwarf lady palm, bamboo palm,

golden fig, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, golden-vein justicia, Schefflera octophylla, variegated duranta, yellow-leaf duranta, Justicia, golden-leaf privet, taro, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, snake plant, Rhaphiolepis indica, variegated hibiscus, Euphorbia cotinifolia, small-leaf boxwood, African jasmine, Brunfelsia, Hamelia, crinum lily, spider lily, Calliandra, Chinese fringeflower, Datura, white paper fan, red paper fan, Rhododendron pulchrum, Western azalea, Senna bicapsularis, Cape honeysuckle, rose myrtle, ixora, Yunnan jasmine, jasmine, Euphorbia cotinifolia, blue snowflower, blue star flower, butterfly pea, nandina, pepperwood, red-back eucalyptus,

Deciduous shrubs:

Hibiscus mutabilis, bridal wreath spirea, Spiraea vanhouttei, modern rose, Abelia chinensis, pomegranate, purple pearl, Magnolia liliiflora, Lespedeza, Lonicera maackii, Chinese snowball viburnum, rose of Sharon, redbud, Prunus japonica, Spiraea prunifolia, Spiraea thunbergii, Viburnum plicatum, elderberry, fig, Sichuan pepper, trifoliate orange, butterfly bush, small wax

Vines:

Monstera deliciosa, bougainvillea, Millettia reticulata, orange trumpet vine, rangoon creeper, three-leaf akebia, honeysuckle, wintercreeper, climbing fig, kiwi, creeping euonymus, Hong Kong rhaphidophora, Mucuna birdwoodiana, hoya, Epipremnum pinnatum, pothos, star jasmine, Chinese ivy, English ivy, Schisandra, Boston ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, passionflower, Lagerstroemia indica, Mucuna sempervirens, Thunbergia grandiflora

Climbing ylang-ylang, Thunbergia grandiflora, rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, orange trumpet vine, Mucuna birdwoodiana, clerodendrum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, Mexican morning glory, snake vine, jasminum officinale, Dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, Clytostoma callistegioides, passionflower

Bamboo:

Bambusa textilis, Bambusa chungii, Moso bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis), Bambusa multiplex f. fernleaf, Phyllostachys glauca, Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata', Bambusa emeiensis, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus amarus, Indocalamus tessellatus, Bambusa ventricosa, Dendrocalamus latiflorus, Bambusa textilis, Thai bamboo, Bambusa pervariabilis, Chimonobambusa quadrangularis, Bambusa oldhamii, Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr', Bambusa multiplex 'Disticha', Bambusa multiplex 'Riviereorum'

Lawn and ground cover plants:

Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon), Zoysia sinica, Zoysia tenuifolia, Axonopus compressus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Paspalum distichum, Manila grass (Zoysia matrella), Zoysia japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Tradescantia virginiana, Rhoeo spathacea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Curculigo capitulata, Liriope spicata, Reineckea carnea, Aspidistra elatior, Thunbergia alata, Acorus gramineus, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes grandiflora, Lycoris aurea, Oxalis triangularis, Iris japonica, Oxalis corymbosa, Tradescantia zebrina,

Calathea zebrina, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Albolineatum', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei, Rhoeo spathacea 'Tricolor', Spathiphyllum kochii, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Variegatus', Lantana camara (red-flowered), Lantana camara (yellow-flowered), Lantana camara (purple-flowered),

Lantana camara, Senecio cineraria, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Russelia equisetiformis, Asparagus densiflorus, Oenothera drummondii, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus papyrus, Iris tectorum, Lythrum salicaria, Narcissus tazetta, Nelumbo nucifera, Nymphaea tetragona, Sphagneticola trilobata, Oxalis corymbosa, Arachis pintoi, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera dentata, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Coleus scutellarioides, Verbena tenuisecta, Alternanthera versicolor, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes grandiflora, Hippeastrum rutilum, Lilium brownii, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Manila grass (Zoysia matrella), Korean zoysia grass, Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon), Axonopus compressus, Stenotaphrum secundatum 'Variegatum', Paspalum notatum, Liriope muscari

Palms:

Roystonea regia, Washingtonia filifera, Dypsis decaryi, Roystonea oleracea, Wodyetia bifurcata, Butia capitata, Hyophorbe lagenicaulis, Hyophorbe verschaffeltii, Phoenix dactylifera, Phoenix canariensis, Bismarckia nobilis, Elaeis guineensis, Caryota obtusa, Trachycarpus fortunei, Raphia farinifera, Livistona chinensis, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Caryota ochlandra, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Washingtonia filifera, Phoenix roebelenii, Caryota mitis, Caryota maxima, Dypsis lutescens, Areca triandra, Ravenala madagascariensis, Rhapis excelsa,

Seasonal flowers

Pentas lanceolata, Impatiens walleriana, Begonia cucullata, Salvia splendens, Petunia hybrida, Dianthus caryophyllus (hybrid), Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Tropaeolum majus, Viola tricolor, Torenia fournieri, Celosia argentea, Calendula officinalis, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Portulaca grandiflora, Portulaca oleracea, Cosmos bipinnatus, Pericallis hybrida, Cleome hassleriana, Hemerocallis fulva, Lavandula angustifolia, Lythrum salicaria

Chapter Five: "Examples of Southern Plant Configurations"

Southern Plant Configurations

Philodendron bipinnatifidum + Cyperus alternifolius + Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata'

Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' + Dracaena fragrans 'Victoria' + Nandina domestica + Nephrolepis cordifolia + decorative rocks

Roystonea regia + Caryota obtusa + Phoenix roebelenii + Canna indica + Coleus scutellarioides + Codiaeum variegatum

Roystonea regia + Phoenix canariensis + Cordyline fruticosa + Acalypha wilkesiana + Ixora chinensis

Roystonea regia + Archontophoenix alexandrae + Dypsis lutescens + Rhapis excelsa + Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves'

Chapter Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern China"

Commonly Used Plants for Southern Courtyards

I. Palms:

1. Roystonea regia 2. Archontophoenix alexandrae 3. Washingtonia filifera 4. Phoenix sylvestris 5. Phoenix canariensis 6. Areca triandra

7. Livistona chinensis 8. Washingtonia filifera 9. Dypsis lutescens 10. Rhapis excelsa (slender-leaved lady palm) 11. Syagrus romanzoffiana 12. Phoenix roebelenii

II. Trees (street trees, shade trees):

1. Delonix regia 2. Bombax ceiba 3. Ceiba speciosa 4. Erythrina variegata 5. Elaeocarpus apiculatus 6. Alstonia scholaris

7. Ficus microcarpa 8. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 9. Mangifera indica 10. Chukrasia tabularis 11. Cinnamomum burmannii 12. Tabebuia chrysantha

13. Pterocarpus indicus 14. Plumeria rubra 15. Terminalia catappa 16. Ravenala madagascariensis 17. Pandanus tectorius 18. Bischofia javanica

19. Averrhoa carambola 20. Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata 21. Cassia fistula 22. Albizia falcataria 23. Melaleuca leucadendra

24. Eucalyptus 25. Syzygium hainanense 26. Aphanamixis polystachya 27. Bauhinia purpurea 28. Swietenia mahagoni

29. Ficus altissima 30. Spathodea campanulata 31. Tabebuia chrysantha 32. Koelreuteria bipinnata

III. Flowering shrubs:

1. Osmanthus fragrans (four-season) 2. Bambusa multiplex 'Stripestem' 3. Cyathea spinulosa 4. Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves' 5. Bougainvillea spectabilis

6. Cassia surattensis 7. Callistemon rigidus 8. Agave angustifolia 'Marginata' 9. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 10. Fagraea ceilanica 11. Ficus aspera

12. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 13. Michelia figo 14. Campsis grandiflora 15. Calliandra haematocephala 16. Tabernaemontana divaricata 17. Aglaonema

18. Agave 19. Yucca 20. Pyrostegia venusta 21. Thevetia peruviana 22. Polyscias fruticosa

IV. Ground cover or color blocks:

1. Pittosporum tobira 2. Monstera deliciosa 3. Epipremnum aureum 4. Asplenium nidus 5. Alternanthera dentata 'Ruby' 6. Cyperus alternifolius 7. Schefflera octophylla

8. Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie' 9. Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves' 10. Cuphea hyssopifolia 11. Ophiopogon japonicus 12. Calathea 'Triostar' 13. Rhododendron pulchrum

14. Livistona chinensis (dwarf) 15. Philodendron bipinnatifidum 16. Duranta erecta 'Variegata' 17. Chlorophytum comosum 18. Tradescantia zebrina 19. Allamanda cathartica

20. Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata' 21. Asparagus densiflorus 22. Arachis pintoi 23. Ixora chinensis (slender-leaved) 24. Nephrolepis cordifolia 25. Pachystachys lutea

26. Oxalis triangularis 27. Pilea cadierei 28. Dieffenbachia picta 29. Cordyline fruticosa 'Rainbow' 30. Codiaeum variegatum 31. Ophiopogon japonicus

32. Ophiopogon japonicus 'Variegatus' 33. Jasminum sambac 34. Calathea zebrina 35. Zoysia matrella 36. Axonopus compressus

37. Manila grass (Zoysia matrella) 38. Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) 39. Lolium perenne 40. Festuca arundinacea

Some other commonly used plants:

1. Ficus religiosa 2. Ficus altissima 3. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 4. Tabebuia chrysantha 5. Koelreuteria bipinnata 6. Cassia fistula

7. Cassia siamea 8. Kigelia africana 9. Thai yellow flowering ball (Tabebuia) 10. Melaleuca bracteata 'Revolution Gold'

11. Senna alata 12. Cassia bicapsularis 13. Euphorbia milii 14. Syzygium nervosum 15. Manglietia glauca

16. Barringtonia hainanensis 17. Pachira aquatica 'Variegata' 18. Ormosia pinnata 19. Swietenia mahagoni

20. Albizia falcataria 21. Cinnamomum cassia 22. Osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus 23. Laurus nobilis 24. Washingtonia filifera 25. Bambusa multiplex 'Stripestem'

26. Pterocarpus indicus (yellow/purple) 27. Pterocarpus indicus 28. Dianella ensifolia 29. Ficus microcarpa (Leizhou) 30. Markhamia stipulata

Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern China

1. Evergreen trees

Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria cunninghamii, Keteleeria fortunei, Araucaria bidwillii, Agathis dammara, Pinus massoniana, Pinus elliottii, Cinnamomum camphora, Cinnamomum japonicum, Eucalyptus grandis x urophylla, Melaleuca leucadendra, Syzygium jambos, Syzygium hainanense, Bischofia javanica, Acacia confusa, Acacia mangium, Acacia auriculiformis, Pterocarpus indicus, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus virens, Ficus altissima, Ficus superba, Ficus elastica, Ficus elastica 'Variegata', Ficus religiosa, Aleurites moluccanus, Swietenia mahagoni, Dillenia indica, Alstonia scholaris, Terminalia catappa, Terminalia mantaly, Artocarpus heterophyllus, Syzygium samarangense, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Manilkara zapota, Chukrasia tabularis, Casuarina equisetifolia, Michelia alba, Magnolia coco, Michelia macclurei, Elaeocarpus decipiens, Magnolia grandiflora, Hibiscus tiliaceus, Mangifera indica, Dimocarpus longan, Litchi chinensis, Canarium album, Eriobotrya japonica, Myrica rubra, Citrus maxima, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Nageia nagi, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus fragrans (four-season), Michelia figo, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, Ficus benjamina, Cleidiocarpon cavaleriei, Ficus tinctoria

2. Deciduous trees

Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum, Glyptostrobus pensilis, Liriodendron chinense, Firmiana simplex, Bischofia polycarpa, Albizia falcataria, Albizia lebbeck, Leucaena leucocephala, Liquidambar formosana, Salix babylonica, Kigelia africana, Neolamarckia cadamba, Grevillea robusta, Celtis sinensis, Sapindus mukorossi, Pistacia chinensis, Melia azedarach, Triadica sebifera, Vernicia montana, Ginkgo biloba, Sterculia monosperma, Diospyros kaki, Ficus carica, Morus alba, Carica papaya, Psidium guajava, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acacia farnesiana

3. Palms

Archontophoenix alexandrae, Roystonea regia, Roystonea oleracea, Hyophorbe lagenicaulis, Hyophorbe verschaffeltii, Dypsis decaryi, Wodyetia bifurcata, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Elaeis guineensis, Borassus flabellifer, Washingtonia robusta, Washingtonia filifera, Phoenix canariensis, Phoenix dactylifera, Phoenix sylvestris, Livistona chinensis, Caryota obtusa, Arenga pinnata, Phoenix loureiroi, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca triandra, Areca vestiaria, Areca catechu, Caryota maxima, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Trachycarpus fortunei, Musa basjoo, Ravenala madagascariensis, Cordyline fruticosa, Rhapis excelsa, Rhapis excelsa (slender-leaved), Strelitzia nicholai, Philodendron erubescens, Alocasia macrorrhizos

4. Foliage shrubs

Ficus benjamina 'Golden Leaves', Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Ficus lyrata, Ficus salicifolia, Garcinia subelliptica, Arundo donax 'Variegata', Polyalthia longifolia (weeping), Pandanus tectorius, Pittosporum tobira, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Variegata', Cycas revoluta, Callistemon rigidus, Cestrum nocturnum, Cotinus coggygria, Justicia brandegeeana, Fatsia japonica, Sabina procumbens, Manihot esculenta 'Variegata', Nandina domestica, Schefflera octophylla, Schefflera octophylla 'Variegata', Zanthoxylum beecheyanum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Acalypha wilkesiana, Syringa japonica, Duranta erecta, Duranta erecta 'Variegata', Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', Murraya paniculata, Codiaeum variegatum, Codiaeum variegatum (lance-leaved), Codiaeum variegatum (Hainan), Codiaeum variegatum 'Aucubaefolium', Buddleja asiatica, Carmona retusa, Buxus sinica (small-leaved), Ligustrum sinense 'Golden Leaves', Euphorbia milii, Agave americana 'Marginata', Agave americana, Agave americana 'Marginata', Yucca, Beaucarnea recurvata, Aspidistra elatior, Sansevieria trifasciata, Cactus, Alocasia macrorrhizos, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Scaevola taccada, Rhaphiolepis indica, Breynia disticha, Phyllanthus myrtifolius, Rosa chinensis

5. Flowering shrubs

Fagraea ceilanica, Brunfelsia pauciflora, Murraya paniculata, Hibiscus syriacus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Ceropegia, Malvaviscus arboreus, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Calliandra haematocephala, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Gardenia jasminoides var. grandiflora, Hydrangea macrophylla, Pachystachys lutea, Melastoma candidum, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Datura suaveolens, Mussaenda frondosa, Mussaenda erythrophylla, Allamanda cathartica, Rhododendron indica, Cassia bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, Ixora chinensis, Duranta erecta, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasminum sambac, Crinum asiaticum,

Hymenocallis littoralis, Zygocactus truncatus, Canna indica (dwarf), Reinwardtia indica, Jatropha pandurifolia, Plumbago auriculata, Oxypetalum caeruleum, Hiptage benghalensis

6. Ground cover

Calathea zebrina, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Albolineatum', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei, Rhoeo spathacea 'Tricolor', Spathiphyllum kochii, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Variegatus', Lantana camara (red-flowered), Lantana camara (yellow-flowered), Lantana camara (purple-flowered), Senecio cineraria, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Russelia equisetiformis, Asparagus densiflorus, Oenothera drummondii, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus papyrus, Iris tectorum, Lythrum salicaria, Narcissus tazetta, Nelumbo nucifera, Nymphaea tetragona, Sphagneticola trilobata, Oxalis corymbosa, Arachis pintoi, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera dentata, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Coleus scutellarioides, Verbena tenuisecta, Alternanthera versicolor, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes grandiflora, Hippeastrum rutilum, Lilium brownii, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Manila grass (Zoysia matrella), Korean zoysia grass, Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon), Axonopus compressus, Stenotaphrum secundatum 'Variegatum', Paspalum notatum, Liriope muscari

7. Vines

Thunbergia grandiflora, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Pyrostegia venusta, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosum, Wisteria sinensis, Ficus pumila, Quamoclit pennata, Ipomoea nil, Ipomoea cairica, Celastrus, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, Mansoa alliacea, Merremia tuberosa, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Passiflora caerulea

Chapter Seven: "Document on Commonly Used Plant Configurations in Southern China"

Practical Plant Configuration Table ---- Concise Table of Commonly Used Plant Configurations

Aquatic plants:

Wetland plants: Salix matsudana, Salix babylonica, Salix babylonica (cotton willow), Salix psammophila, Salix viminalis, Salix wallichiana, Populus simonii, Populus maximowiczii, Sabina vulgaris, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Melia azedarach, Pterocarya stenoptera, Fraxinus chinensis, Forsythia suspensa, Ulmus pumila, Ulmus laciniata, Ulmus parvifolia, Triadica sebifera, Prunus serrulata, Eucommia ulmoides, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Vitis vinifera, Wisteria sinensis, Amorpha fruticosa, Tamarix chinensis, Ranunculus, Halerpestes ruthenica, Halerpestes lancifolia, Lysimachia, Stachys palustris, Stachys chinensis, Mentha, Lindernia, Veronica, Nasturtium officinale, Scirpus, Scirpus triangulatus, Scirpus planiculmis, Cyperus, Cyperus glomeratus, Pycreus globosus, Pycreus sanguinolentus, Juncus articulatus, Juncus bufonius, Juncus tenuis, Juncus gracillimus, Polygonum aviculare, Polygonum plebeium, Polygonum orientale, Polygonum caespitosum, Polygonum lapathifolium, Polygonum senticosum, Polygonum sieboldii, Polygonum perfoliatum, Polygonum senticosum, Polygonum thunbergii, Polygonum macrophyllum, Reynoutria japonica, Imperata cylindrica, Calamagrostis epigejos, Calamagrostis langsdorffii, Beckmannia syzigachne, Polypogon monspeliensis, Arundinella anomala, Miscanthus sacchariflorus, Coix lacryma-jobi, Hemarthria altissima, wet-loving Disporum

Emergent plants: Scirpus validus, Phragmites australis, lotus root (Nelumbo nucifera), Sagittaria sagittifolia, Carex dispalata, Alisma plantago-aquatica, Nelumbo nucifera, Lythrum salicaria, Typha orientalis, Monochoria vaginalis, Monochoria korsakowii, Acorus calamus, Pontederia cordata, Oryza sativa, Kandelia candel, Narcissus tazetta, Oenanthe javanica, Zizania latifolia, Colocasia esculenta, Marsilea quadrifolia, Phragmites australis, Eleocharis dulcis, Scirpus yagara, Eleocharis valleculosa, Typha angustifolia, Cyperus alternifolius, Typha latifolia

Floating plants: Lemna minor, Eichhornia crassipes, Nymphaea tetragona, Euryale ferox, Victoria amazonica, Nuphar pumilum, Eichhornia crassipes, Nymphoides peltata, Brasenia schreberi, Utricularia aurea, floating fern (Ceratopteris thalictroides), Nymphoides hydrophylla

Submerged plants: Ceratophyllum demersum, Ottelia alismoides

Colorful foliage plants:

Red or purple: Liquidambar formosana, Toxicodendron vernicifluum, Acer palmatum, Acer ginnala, Celastrus orbiculatus, Quercus rubra, Acer truncatum, Triadica sebifera, Rhus typhina, Rhus chinensis, Sorbus pohuashanensis, Nandina domestica, Euonymus alatus, Crataegus pinnatifida, Pistacia chinensis, Pterocarya stenoptera, Berberis thunbergii, Carpinus hupeana, Parthenocissus tricuspidata

Golden yellow or yellowish brown: Ginkgo biloba, Diospyros kaki, Koelreuteria paniculata, Liriodendron chinense, Firmiana simplex, Ulmus pumila, Juglans regia, Catalpa bungei, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Lagerstroemia indica, Ulmus parvifolia, Phoebe zhennan, Ziziphus jujuba var. spinosa, Actinidia chinensis, Aesculus chinensis, Sorbus alnifolia, Chimonanthus praecox, Punica granatum, Cassia surattensis, Hamamelis mollis, Sapindus mukorossi, Acacia farnesiana

Aromatic plants:

Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: Mentha, Ocimum basilicum, Melissa officinalis, Matricaria chamomilla, Cymbopogon citratus, Salvia japonica, Taraxacum mongolicum, Calendula officinalis, Thymus vulgaris, Borago officinalis, Pelargonium graveolens, Malva sylvestris and other herbaceous plants; and Lavandula angustifolia, Rosmarinus officinalis, Gardenia jasminoides, Rosa rugosa, Aloysia citrodora and other shrubs.

A configuration of woody plants with fragrance circulating through the four seasons, such as: plum blossoms and orange blossoms in spring; gardenia and Michelia alba in summer; Osmanthus fragrans in autumn and Chimonanthus praecox in winter.

Pollution-resistant and exhaust gas-resistant plants: Robinia pseudoacacia, Paulownia fortunei, Pinus bungeana, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum odoratissimum, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc.

Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, Amorpha fruticosa, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas

Nectar source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: Taxus cuspidata (dwarf), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Torreya grandis, Ilex crenata 'Convexa', Cinnamomum camphora, Myrica rubra, Ligustrum lucidum, Ternstroemia gymnanthera, Viburnum, Aucuba japonica, Mahonia fortunei, Pyracantha fortuneana, Buxus sinica, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc. Buddleja davidii, Pistacia chinensis, and other fragrant-flowered plants (such as plants of the genus Citrus in the family Rutaceae)

Perennial (herbaceous perennial) flowers: Kniphofia uvaria (torch lily), Lupinus, Festuca glauca, Astilbe chinensis, Coreopsis grandiflora, Lysimachia christinae, Origanum vulgare, Hibiscus moscheutos, Mentha sanguinea, Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum', Lampranthus spectabilis, Helleborus thibetanus, Lycoris radiata, Hemerocallis fulva, Iris tectorum, Tradescantia virginiana, Hosta plantaginea, Canna indica 'Variegata', Canna indica (red-leaved), Aster novi-belgii, Farfugium japonicum, Bletilla striata, Verbena (perennial)

Flowering plants of the four seasons:

Spring: various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia 'Red', Michelia figo, Michelia maudiae, etc.), Cercis chinensis, red-leaf plum,

peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, Syringa, etc.

Summer: Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Michelia figo, Rhododendron (summer azalea), Punica granatum (flowering pomegranate), Gardenia jasminoides, Campsis grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Acacia farnesiana Autumn: Osmanthus fragrans, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, flowering pomegranate, Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, etc.

Winter: Lonicera japonica, Nandina domestica, plum blossom, Michelia figo, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, etc.

Classification diagram of common landscaping tree species:

(I) Evergreen conifers

1. Trees: Cedrus deodara, Pinus koraiensis, Pinus thunbergii, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Pinus massoniana, Sabina chinensis, Cycas revoluta, Araucaria heterophylla, Cryptomeria japonica, Torreya grandis

2. Shrubs: (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Platycladus orientalis 'Sieboldii', Calocedrus macrolepis, Sabina procumbens, Cryptomeria japonica 'Japonica', Pinus parviflora

(II) Deciduous conifers (no shrubs):

Trees: Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Pseudolarix amabilis, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum

(III) Evergreen broadleaf trees:

1. Trees: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Ligustrum lucidum, Trachycarpus fortunei

2. Shrubs: Viburnum odoratissimum, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Ilex cornuta, Citrus, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Nerium oleander, Jasminum floridum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Nandina domestica, Serissa japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Distylium racemosum, Camellia japonica, Hypericum monogynum, Rhododendron, Yucca (Agave, Agave americana), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Mahonia fortunei

(IV) Deciduous broadleaf trees:

1. Trees: Salix babylonica, Salix babylonica (upright), Pterocarya stenoptera, Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa', Triadica sebifera, Sophora japonica, Firmiana simplex (Chinese parasol tree),

Platanus acerifolia (London plane), Sophora japonica (Chinese scholar tree), Sophora japonica 'Pendula', Albizia julibrissin, Ginkgo biloba, Melia azedarach, Catalpa ovata

2. Shrubs: Prunus serrulata, Magnolia denudata, peach blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Acer, Acer palmatum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea thunbergii, Forsythia viridissima (golden bells), Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Alchornea davidii, Punica granatum

(V) Bamboo: Bambusa multiplex, Phyllostachys sulphurea, Moso bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis), Phyllostachys nigra, Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr', Bambusa multiplex f. fernleaf, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata'

(VI) Vines: Wisteria sinensis, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy, climbing ivy), Hedera helix, grape vine, Euonymus fortunei

(VII) Flowers: Portulaca grandiflora, Chrysanthemum coronarium, Salvia splendens, Canna indica, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Brassica oleracea (ornamental cabbage), Chrysanthemum, orchid

(VIII) Lawn: Zoysia tenuifolia, Zoysia japonica, Liriope, evergreen grass, Festuca arundinacea, Manila grass (Zoysia matrella), clover, Dichondra repens

Detailed Table of Commonly Used Plant Configurations

Table of Commonly Used Street Trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.

London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovate Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Flamboyant tree Delonix regia Raffin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, prefers warm and hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August

Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Sweet acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, suitable for low-lying land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Banyan Ficus retusa Linn. Moraceae Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various styles of pruning

Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and round, grows vigorously, beautiful tree form

Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Tree form single-trunked and upright, leaf surface dark green, grows vigorously, very beautiful posture

Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Sapindaceae Round Evergreen tree with round crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow-growing, very beautiful posture

Chinaberry (bead tree) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, slightly umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple

Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old

Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge, soft and thin, branches spreading in all directions, crown umbrella-shaped, form also beautiful

Formosan alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tree form tall and handsome

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, strong constitution, rapid growth, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Hoop pine Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, fond of warm and hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fond of fertilizer, fast-growing, crown narrowly conical, graceful form

Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, intermediate in light demand, shallow-rooted, suitable for the northwest region

Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, weakly sun-loving, fond of cool and humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green

Chinese juniper (Juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and poor soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerant of pruning, good dust-blocking and sound-insulating effect

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovoid Evergreen tree, flowers large, white and fragrant, tree form graceful,

Taiwan acacia Acacia confusa Merr. Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly crooked, strong growth vigor

Date palm Phoenix dactylifera L. Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, robust growth, form also beautiful

Canary Island date palm (Canary palm) Phoenix dactylifera Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk thick and stout, tall and majestic, pinnate leaves dense and spreading,

Royal palm (Great king palm) Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single trunk upright, up to 18m tall, slightly swollen at the middle, pinnate compound leaves, vitality very strong, high ornamental value

Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, not tolerant of waterlogging, resistant to many toxic gases

Chinese tulip tree (Chinese tuliptree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, fond of warm and humid climates, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, rapid growth, long lifespan, leaf shape resembling a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese white poplar Populus tomentosa Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, fond of cool and temperate climates, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, fairly long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark grayish-white

Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var. italica Salicaceae Narrowly cylindrical Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of saline-alkali and waterlogged conditions, fast-growing

Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, fond of warm and humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke, dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Box elder (Ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, fond of fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow{Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.

Table of Traits of Commonly Used Landscape Trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree form Characteristics

Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, trinerved, doubly fragrant, berries spherical.

London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovoid Fond of warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Crown large and shade dense, suitable as street tree and courtyard shade tree.

Southern magnolia Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovoid Evergreen tree, flowers large, white and fragrant, tree form graceful,

Yulan magnolia Magnolia denudata Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Fairly cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large and pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for courtyard viewing.

Chinese tulip tree (Chinese tuliptree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, fond of warm and humid climates, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, rapid growth, long lifespan, leaf shape resembling a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese arborvitae Thuja orientalis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly crooked when old, strong growth, long lifespan, beautiful tree form

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, strong constitution, rapid growth, beautiful tree form and leaf shape Java bishopwood Bischoffia javanica Blanco Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, when young leaves sprout, extremely beautiful, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, suitable for low-temperature land, growth luxuriant and rapid, beautiful tree form

Chinese incense cedar Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz Cupressaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark grayish-brown, showing irregular longitudinal fissures; branchlets alternate, green when young, flat.

Great king palm Roystonea regia Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single trunk upright, up to 18m tall, slightly swollen at the middle, pinnate compound leaves, vitality very strong, high ornamental value

Japanese euonymus Euonymus japonica Celastraceae Ovoid Fond of warm and humid climates, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.

Formosan sweetgum Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Chinese wingnut Pterocarya stenoptera Juglandaceae Umbrella-shaped Strong adaptability, tolerant of waterlogged conditions, fast-growing. Suitable as courtyard shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Creeping juniper Sabina procumbens Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping dwarf shrub, branches and stems sprawling and creeping on the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, tree form uniquely styled, foliage emerald-green and flowing. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc.{Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.

Golden dewdrop Duranta repens Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Golden dewdrop with yellow leaves is grown mainly for foliage, widely used, can serve as ground cover, trimmed shapes, forming patterns or emphasizing color combinations, dazzling and eye-catching. Chinese holly Ilex cornuta Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge, soft and thin, branches spreading in all directions, form also beautiful

Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, fond of warm and humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke, dust and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Chinese juniper Juniperus Chinensis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium tree, branches densely growing, dark green, robust growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form

Japanese pittosporum Pittosporum tobira Pittosporaceae Round White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as hedge or potted plant. Date palm Phoenix dactylifera Linn Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk tillering, up to 20~25m tall, leaves grayish-white with arching curve, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Hankow willow Salix matsudana Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Suitable as courtyard shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as courtyard shade ornamental tree, street tree

Japanese black pine Pinus Thumbergii Porl. Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark grayish-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and in pairs clustered, long lifespan

Purple-leaf plum Prunus cerasifera. F.arropurpurea Rosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, reddish-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purplish-red, blooms small pale pink flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both specimen planting and group planting, as a foil background.

Washington palm Washingtonia filifera Wend. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single trunk cylindrical, base swollen, up to 4~8m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped and round, robust growth, beautiful tree form{Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.

Japanese pagoda tree Sophora japonica Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as courtyard shade tree, street tree

Glaucous cassia Cassia glauca Lam. Fabaceae Round Deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, flowers yellow, rapid growth, beautiful tree form

Box elder (Ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, fond of fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow

Japanese maple Acer palmatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Leaf shape elegant, autumn leaves red. Suitable for courtyard viewing and potted cultivation.

Golden larch Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. Pinaceae Ovoid tower-shaped Evergreen tree, branches and leaves spreading gracefully, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, leaflets radial, tree form vigorous and upright.

Bottle palm Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk about 3 m tall, base oval and swollen, forming a wine bottle shape, form very beautiful

Mandarin orange tree Citrus reticulata Rutaceae Round Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.

Chinaberry Melia azedarch Linn. Meliaceae Round Deciduous tree, bark grayish-brown, bipinnate odd-pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, rapid growth

Snowbush (Serissa) Serissa serissoides Rubiaceae Round Evergreen small shrub. Leaf color dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, fine texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, trimmed shapes.

Kaizuka juniper Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort Cupressaceae Upright tower-shaped Evergreen medium tree, branches densely growing, dark green, robust growth, very long lifespan, very beautiful tree form

Dragon-claw pagoda tree S. j. cv. Pendula Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches drooping, suitable for courtyard viewing, opposite planting or row planting

Corkscrew willow S. m. cv. Tortuosa Salicaceae Round Branches twisted like a dragon winding, suitable as courtyard shade tree, ornamental tree

Pygmy date palm Phehix Roebelenii Brien. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, 2m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves

Buddhist pine Podocaarpus macrophyllus D. Don Podocarpaceae Long conical Evergreen tree, form simple and elegant, can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, layered forms for courtyard landscaping and beautification.

Masson pine Pinus massoniana Lamb. Pinaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, trunk bark reddish-brown, winter buds brown, large trees majestic

Sacred bamboo Nandina domestica Berberidaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves elegant, red berries in autumn and winter; courtyard viewing, can be group planted or potted. Hoop pine Araucaria ecelsa Br. Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree form, robust growth

Glossy privet Ligustrum lucidum Oleaceae Ovoid Flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as hedge or street tree.

Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis R. Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk upright, up to 6~12m tall, leaves round, petiole margins spiny, growth luxuriant, form elegant

Globe juniper Junlperus chinensis cv. Globosa. Cupressaceae Broadly round Shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.

Green maple Acer serrulatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped conical Deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Tree form light and graceful, can be trained into a noble bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree, forest-bathing tree.

Box-leaved holly (Chinese box) B. bodinieri Buxaceae Ovoid Branches and leaves fine and dense, suitable for courtyard viewing. Can be group planted, used as hedge or potted. Japanese cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don Taxodiaceae Conical, ovoid, round Evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful

Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Care of Arecaceae Plants"

The Arecaceae is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, root system well developed, tolerant of drought, tolerant of poor soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, and outstanding for creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This edition will introduce their introduction, transplanting and disease control.

Brief Introduction to the Introduction Process

There are 183 genera and about 2400 species of Arecaceae plants worldwide, widely distributed in the tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants. A few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, for example the silver date palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, as well as quite a few palm species that can tolerate long-term waterlogging, such as the swamp palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, possessing strong wind resistance, such as the false betel nut palm and the Chinese fan palm.

Since the 1940s, in the urban construction of numerous tropical and subtropical cities worldwide, the landscape effect of palm plants has been recognized, and they have been used as key species for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore, etc.

Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants in the early 1980s. Over the following more than twenty years, the southern provinces and regions of Guangxi, Fujian and Yunnan, as well as later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing and Yunnan and other areas, successively set off a wave of introducing, producing and applying palms.

Led by several units headed by the Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, based on phytogeography and ecology theory, through observational research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatized Arecaceae plants, it was found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally possess cold-tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high-latitude, high-altitude regions of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, water and soil. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing plant growth and development; winter low temperature is the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization; through research on the salt tolerance and shade tolerance of palms, researchers screened out a batch of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkali tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of pests and diseases such as palm phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented palm seed germination acceleration techniques, mastered the whole-crown transplanting and large-specification container seedling cultivation techniques for palm plants, and did fruitful work on soil improvement, winter cold protection and conservation techniques.

At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including the great king palm, Chinese fan palm, broadleaf lady palm, South palm, fishtail palm, etc.; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the Arecaceae plants successfully applied mainly include Butia palm, hairy Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Washington palm and more than ten other species, and the related research techniques have been appraised by experts as reaching the world's advanced level.

Taking the Washington palm as an example

Discussing the Occurrence and Control of Phytophthora Disease

Damage and General Symptoms of Palm Phytophthora Disease

This disease often occurs and causes damage on palm plants such as the great king palm, large Chinese fan palm, Washington palm, Mexican fan palm, and Canary Island date palm. Affected plants cannot normally put out heart leaves, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the whole plant wilts in patches. The pathogen of phytophthora disease is caused by Phytophthora, which can be identified by incubation in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in the soil or on diseased plant residues. The fungus spreads through watering, rain splashing, air movement, etc.

Occurrence Pattern of Washington Palm Phytophthora Disease

This disease occurs during the high-temperature, high-humidity period between summer and autumn. Early drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, soil water content

suddenly increasing, poor ventilation, or plants located at air vents, are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, continuous-cropping plots. In addition, the disease is often related to severe root damage caused during seedling digging, combined with long-distance transport.

When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young heart leaf rots, the leaf turns grayish-green and droops, and it can be pulled out with slight effort. Dissecting the stem, one can see mushy secretions at the growing point and even the entire heart of the plant, with a foul odor, and white mold-like growth can appear on the infected tissue. Severely affected plants also often show root damage, with the main symptoms being blackened, rotted roots with an abnormal

odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; mature trees planted in green spaces are less affected.

Symptoms

In recent years, the damage has been relatively severe in nursery plots. In the early stage of the disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions first appear near the ground, the lesions rapidly expand and are slightly sunken, and when moist the surface is densely covered with white cottony mold, and the diseased part rots and smells foul. When the disease occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellow-brown, and white mold grows under moist conditions. When it occurs on the stem, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and later the upper part shows wilting. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes the root system and stem when cut open exude pus-like liquid, and in severe cases the margins of the veins of young leaves carry large amounts of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease; in severe cases the whole plant wilts, droops and dries up until death, with a high fatality rate.

According to investigation, the peak period of this disease is mostly the high-temperature, high-humidity period, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, in Xiamen August to November, in Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of western Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all places the disease can be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically, sometimes appearing in patches.

Control Methods

I. Preventive Cultivation Measures

1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness and drainage in the nursery. In autumn and winter each year, leaves can be moderately pruned, and pits can be dug and soil mounded in the planting area to keep the nursery land dry. Usually, potassium fertilizer can be applied additionally, and quicklime and superphosphate can also be applied separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of plants.

2. Choose a good plot: select loam or sandy loam plots with high terrain and good drainage for planting.

3. Implement crop rotation: for land that has grown Washington palms, crop rotation of three to four years or more is required.

4. Strengthen field management, apply more organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth, deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. During the rainy season, appropriately control watering, and drain water promptly after rain, so that the ground dries after rain; during drought, water promptly, and strictly forbid flood irrigation when watering, and do it on sunny afternoons or evenings.

5. Achieve prevention first, with integrated control. Usually observe carefully, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the diseased holes with lime.

II. Chemical Control

One to two months before the onset of the disease in summer and during the disease period, use 64% oxadixyl-mancozeb wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminum (1:400), or other hymexazol types such as carbendazim substitutes, that is, soil fungicide (usual amount 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control methods: when transplanting Washington palms, first spray the planting site and the roots of the Washington palm with 600 to 700 times soil fungicide solution, or on continuous sunny days first dig pits and expose them to the sun for sterilization, or sprinkle lime powder for disinfection, or use 500 times dexon solution for soil disinfection.

After a typhoon, promptly spray oxadixyl-mancozeb (better) or fosetyl-aluminum (prone to developing resistance), add 0.4% washing powder and pour into the heart or spray for both prevention and treatment. 80% mancozeb 700 times solution can also be sprayed, once every 7 to 10 days, spraying two or three times in succession, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of phytophthora disease. After adopting this measure, the Washington palms and hairy Washington palms at the Shanghai base of the Guangdong Palm Landscape Company have dropped from a disease incidence of 20% in 2004 to below 10%.

Control Experience

The control effect of using carbendazim and the like is not obvious. If in the early stage of the disease all leaves are cut off and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can successively revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is poor.

It is understood that this disease rarely occurs in high-temperature, dry areas such as Los Angeles, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater and rainwater, etc. When the plant's root system, trunk, leaves, etc. are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies massively when water is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant dies of dehydration and wilting. The heart rot disease described in some literature is actually also phytophthora disease, only occurring at the heart leaf position.

This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, with water-soaked small spots appearing at onset, then expanding into larger lesions, easy to detect, and generally controllable with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, with common pathogens being Phyllosticta, Pestalotiopsis, etc., often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting Techniques for Large Single-Trunk Seedlings

Preparation Before Transplanting

1. Root-prune the seedlings to be transplanted in advance; after root pruning the soil ball size is twice the ground diameter, and the root-pruning depth is 50 cm to 60 cm. Stones and broken roots should be removed from the root-pruning soil and it should be backfilled promptly, and moisture should be maintained well: the purpose is to exercise the seedling's adaptability and induce new root growth. After root pruning, it is best to keep them for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If using heeled-in seedlings, the effect is even better.

2. Dig pits and prepare the soil. Dig pits at the planting site 20 days before transplanting; the pit specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. The soil from the pits should be exposed to the open air and sun for a period; the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of matured phosphate fertilizer + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.

Planting Time

In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done year-round, with spring and autumn being the best, and summer and winter avoided as much as possible, especially January and July. Most Arecaceae plants like warmth and moisture; in summer the temperature is high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, easily causing excessive water loss that affects survival; in winter the temperature is low, some places even have frost, and strong north winds easily cause seedling frostbite or even death.

Moving Seedlings

Some large single-trunk Arecaceae seedlings have relatively thick stems, the work of moving seedlings is heavy, and seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when moving seedlings, the trunk must be wrapped with burlap or rice straw, especially the green wrapped-trunk part at the boundary between the trunk and the petioles. First, it protects the trunk; second, it maintains moisture and blocks sunlight. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with pruning leaves, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on the strength of the tree vigor). At the same time, cut off the leaves together with the petioles by 1/5, to minimize water evaporation.

Planting

Seedlings are best planted the same day they are dug; if the time is too long, seedlings evaporate a lot of water and are easily affected in survival due to water loss. If they cannot all be planted the same day, they should be well covered with shade netting and sprayed with a small amount of water on the leaf surface every day, with good shading and moisture retention.

1. Backfilling soil: once the seedling is positioned, backfill the soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, make the soil mound into a "water storage basin" with slightly higher surroundings and a slightly lower middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.

2. Watering: after backfilling, immediately water thoroughly to set the roots. Before watering, first use bamboo poles etc. to poke and firm the loose soil around the soil ball, until the loose soil no longer sinks.

3. Fixing: there are many kinds of supports; using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. The binding height is at 2/3 of the trunk.

Post-Planting Management

1. Moisture retention: spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, to the extent of wetting the leaves and trunk wrapping. Do not water the roots, because excess water will flow downward, and water accumulation causes root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with rice straw to block sunlight, prevent soil hardening caused by excessive soil temperature differences, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist and aerated, which is conducive to new root sprouting.

2. Wind protection: because transplanted large single-trunk palm plants are generally relatively tall, and after transplanting are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds, the supports must be checked regularly after planting to see whether they have loosened; especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, it must be promptly straightened and re-tied.

3. Topdressing: about one month after planting, urea water can be used as foliar topdressing, sprayed, with topdressing about once every half a month. After the first new leaf grows out and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. Dig the holes at the edge of the soil ball, opening a ring-shaped trench, with the trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer must be mixed evenly with the backfill soil.

4. Pest and disease control: newly transplanted large single-trunk Arecaceae seedlings are relatively weak in tree vigor and extremely susceptible to pests and diseases, especially tender leaves and heart leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" causes quite severe damage to Arecaceae plants; adults and larvae concentrate in the overlapping spaces of the not-yet-unfolded heart leaves and gnaw the leaf flesh, causing some or all of the newly emerged leaves to die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. Control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsion 1000 times solution; ② cypermethrin 500 times solution; ③ using "Ye Jia Qing", all of which can achieve good control effects. Based on actual practice, the author believes the simplest, most convenient and long-lasting method is to hang a packet of "Ye Jia Qing" on the heart leaf in combination with tying during planting.

Whether large single-trunk Arecaceae seedlings survive can be roughly determined about one month after planting based on whether their leaves remain green, but to truly confirm survival, one generally must wait until after one growing season, using whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author adopted the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to above 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and worth promoting and applying.

Transplanting Techniques for Seedlings, Large Trees and Clustered Seedlings

Key Techniques for Seedling Transplanting

Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during the period after germination and rooting. At this time the seedlings are smaller, can be transplanted with seeds, and in addition have few fibrous roots, so the root system is not easily damaged when moving seedlings. Use nutrition bags for seedling cultivation, with the size depending on the cultivation time; generally speaking, 1-year-old seedlings are suitable with 16 cm x 18 cm containers, and 2-year-old seedlings with 19 cm x 20 cm; nutrition bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutrition soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burnt soil and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, then bagged. First fill half the bag with the mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling and fill it full and compact it, so that the seedling root system and the mixed soil are pressed closely together, and water thoroughly. Palm plants must not be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, the seedling must be lifted upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.

Key Techniques for Large Tree Transplanting

Arecaceae plants cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years mostly need several rounds of bed-to-bed transplanting, so choosing sparsely planted strong seedlings gives a relatively high survival rate.

Minimize damage to the root system. Palm roots are delicate, with many lateral roots and fine hair roots, so when digging, keep as large a root ball as possible and prevent it from crumbling or cracking. Reduce root damage to a minimum so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption, and improve the survival rate after transplanting. During construction, set out and mark the planting holes accurately to avoid rework and prevent the root ball from loosening.

Leaf pruning: the amount of foliage left at transplanting should be determined comprehensively according to the species, the climate at transplanting time, and the transplanting and maintenance conditions.

Generally about 40% of the original leaves should be retained. Too many leaves left will cause the leaves to yellow and wither due to excessive water evaporation; too few leaves left will make recovery difficult and slow, and the initial landscape effect will also be poor.

Protect the plant's trunk and its pseudostem. During digging, carrying, loading and unloading, the trunk should be kept free from damage and the pseudostem should not be squeezed or bent. This is the guarantee of the plant's health and its rapid recovery.

Soil at the new planting site: palms suffer damage to their root tips during transplanting, and within one month after transplanting new root tips are very difficult to sprout, so their water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, good soil permeability and aeration favor the survival of the seedlings, so when planting, dig large holes and pay attention to the quality of the imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer to help the palms recover after planting.

Maintenance: within one month after planting, the plants adapt poorly, so the seedlings should be carefully maintained; be sure to replenish water in time and provide appropriate shade, striving to have new leaves sprout within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs for several days after transplanting, the palm seedlings will recover better, because rainy days can avoid the adverse effects of scorching sun exposure and other unfavorable factors.

Key techniques for transplanting large clustered palms

Clustered species of palms have multiple growing points, and after growing into a multi-stemmed clumped state they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. But clustered palms also have disadvantages: the heavy trunks and large leaf area cause high water evaporation, and poor wind permeability makes them vulnerable to strong winds. Therefore, in addition to the measures used for single-stem palm transplanting, the following technical measures should be added:

1. Implement the "hair root method" of transplanting. That is, after digging out a relatively large root ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the root ball, retaining more fibrous roots and a moderate root ball, then immediately wrap it with a moisture-retaining lightweight material, so as to reduce the weight of the root ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting slow-recovering clustered palms such as the fishtail palm and the three-stamen areca palm.

2. Implement bare-root heeling-in or potting for concentrated maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant is stable, and only then carry out formal planting. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as the areca palm, the strange wrinkle-fruited palm, and the Hawaiian bamboo palm, and it can reduce freight costs and facilitate construction.

In short, for transplanting large seedlings and large trees of palms, to put it briefly, five aspects should be handled well: select strong seedlings; dig good root balls and transport and plant them carefully; prune leaves moderately; ensure good aeration and drainage at the planting site; and carry out post-planting maintenance focusing on sun protection and moisture retention. The sign of successful transplanting of large seedlings and large trees is that within half a year after planting most of the leaves can be retained and new leaves can sprout, among which the sprouting of three healthy new leaves means the transplanting is completely successful.

Drainage: first understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, and try to place the very bottom of the root ball at a position 100-150CM above the perennial groundwater level of the planting site and where the soil layer is thick and fertile. At the same time, a drainage layer for the root system of the underground root ball and a surface runoff drainage network should be well constructed to prevent water accumulation in the root ball after planting. If the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting on a raised mound can be used, that is, first pile up the planting site with loose medium mixed with fertile soil or with coarse sand, try to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the mound, and fill and bury the root ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with a loose medium, so as to achieve loose and breathable conditions for the plant roots; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil around the roots, so as to prevent waterlogging and drain accumulated water. Moisture retention: immediately after planting, water once with the settling water to ensure the root ball roots are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development; then water thoroughly three more times and cover the root ball promptly to prevent the surface soil from cracking. In hot summer, also spray water on the ground and the canopy more often to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf moisture retention treatments include: a. newly planted seedlings should have their leaves properly pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit the plant's physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss; c. in clear weather, spray atomized water on the leaves as much as possible to strengthen the leaves' absorption of water and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the root ball and roots at any time and replenish water in time to ensure the root ball remains moist and the roots can breathe freely. Fertilization: after planting, in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant, foliar fertilizer can be sprayed appropriately at low concentration to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant, and if new roots are found, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing the season when the monthly average temperature is higher than 2O°C, applying mainly organic fertilizer and appropriately adding compound fertilizer with high P and K content, so as to promote balanced nutrition of the plant and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: spray pesticides to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery, and after arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed before unloading, and ensure that within one month after planting, pesticide is applied three times in succession at intervals of one week to ten days, after which a reasonable pest and disease control plan should also be formulated. Special

Part Nine: "Maintenance Plan"

Sutarion (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Greening

Main

te

nan

ce

Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.

October 8, 2010

Project Overview

"Sutarion (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green space area of 28186 sq m. The plant configuration in the factory greening is relatively reasonable, rich in color, with obvious seasonal changes, forming a clearly layered and naturally ecological plant community that basically displays the natural landscape of the plants. The arrangement of flowering shrubs and hedges between the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant varieties such as camphor, southern magnolia, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle have been planted in the factory area, among which there is a tree-lined avenue composed of large-sized camphor trees, and scenic spots at the numbered buildings composed of varieties such as old red maple, fruiting pomegranate, Xifu crabapple, ginkgo, and Canary Island date palm.

In view of the existing conditions of the factory greening landscape, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, with insufficient understanding of plant habits, especially the replacement of planting soil in the green areas was not done properly, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.

Greening Maintenance Plan Schedule

January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)

1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.

2. Frequently check cold-protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold-protection wrappings.

3. Turn the soil and carry out winter plowing, and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.

4. Cut off dead, damaged, diseased and insect-infested branches and leaves, and thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm cases, slug moth cocoons, and lurking overwintering pests.

February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)

1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.

2. Continue cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, giant mealybug, etc.).

3. Continue collecting fertilizer and making compost, prepare culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)

The weather gradually warms, and many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insecticide and disease prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and giant mealybugs, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)

1. Do a good job in controlling pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, and mole crickets, as well as powdery mildew and rust.

2. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and fertilizing before flowering. Apply light fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Do a good job in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and branches growing in inappropriate positions at any time.

4. Dredge and repair the drainage system.

May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)

1. Carry out post-flowering pruning of spring-flowering shrubs and hedge pruning; according to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning of trees, and prune and remove sprouts from the roots of small seedlings at any time.

2. Continue to strengthen tree maintenance and management, do a good job in replanting, thinning, and final spacing of seedlings, increase additional fertilization, and apply light fertilizer frequently.

3. This month the temperature gradually rises, and pests and diseases cause great harm to trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to pest forecasting and forecasting, and pest and disease prevention work should be done well.

4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue to remove weeds from the lawn.

June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)

1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperature and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.

2. Carry out post-flowering pruning and fertilization of flowering shrubs, and pinch-prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Continue removing weeds and continue mowing.

4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and soft scale insects, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.

July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)

1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly, so continue intertillage weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Pests such as bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, soft scale insects, armored scales, the second generation of cottony cushion scale, and mites occur in large numbers, so attention should be paid to their control; at the same time, continue to control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, etc.

3. During the dog days the temperature is high, and when there is little rain, irrigation is needed to resist drought. This month is also a month with more heavy rain, so attention should be paid to preventing waterlogging.

4. This month enters the typhoon and tide season, so typhoon and flood prevention work should be done well, with frequent inspections and timely righting of wind-thrown trees.

August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)

1. Continue intertillage weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Continue to do a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure normal growth of the seedlings.

3. This month the seedlings grow vigorously, so additional fertilizer should be applied in time; for small seedlings, apply light fertilizer frequently.

4. Continue to do a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, and right wind-thrown trees promptly when found.

5. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously control the main pests harmful to trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).

September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)

1. Continue to do a good job in pest elimination and disease control; in particular, frequently check the occurrence of aphids, wood moths, etc., and once found, control them immediately.

2. Continue intertillage weeding, continue removing lawn weeds, carry out lawn mowing, and carry out shaping and pruning of ball-shaped plants and hedges.

3. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, check the conditions of pests and diseases that occur more frequently, such as aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, and control them in time.

October (Cold Dew, Frost Descent)

1. Do a good job in pest and disease control, and eliminate various adult insects and eggs.

2. Continue intertillage weeding.

3. After the seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate and get a clear picture of the resources, so as to ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring greening work.

November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)

1. Do a good job in cold protection, whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.

2. Carry out winter pruning of trees, cutting off diseased branches and dead branches; branches with insect eggs, competing branches, and exces

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Middle Volume)

31．What are the benefits of root-outside fertilization？
Root-outside fertilization, also called foliar fertilization, is a fertilization method in which a diluted solution of chemical fertilizer or trace elements is sprayed on the leaf surface and absorbed and utilized by the plant through the leaf stomata. The main advantages of root-outside fertilization are: small dosage, marked and rapid fertilizer effect, not fixed by the soil, and not affected by the absorptive function of the root system.

32．Why can't unrotted fertilizer be applied？
Some flower enthusiasts often bury spoiled eggs, the internal organs of chickens, ducks and fish, meat skins, raw horse manure, cake fertilizer, etc. into the potting soil. They originally thought this could increase nutrients and make the flowers bloom abundantly and grow lush leaves, but the result is contrary to their wishes and instead harms the flowers. Why is this? Because the growth and development of flowers relies on absorbing various nutrient elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and iron dissolved in water after fermentation in the soil. The above-mentioned spoiled foods, if directly buried in the pot without fermentation, will ferment upon contact with water after application and generate high temperature, which will directly scald the flower roots; in addition, microbial activity will cause soil oxygen deficiency, leading to the death of the flowers. At the same time, when unrotted fertilizer ferments it produces a foul odor, attracting flies to lay eggs, and maggots can also bite the root system, harming flower growth; the foul odor can also pollute the environment. Therefore, when growing flowers, one must pay attention to applying fully rotted fertilizer in order to ensure good flower growth.

33．What harm is there in applying concentrated fertilizer？
Applying liquid fertilizer at too high a concentration often causes flower branches and leaves to turn yellow and wither, and even the whole plant to die. What is the reason? Because under normal conditions, the concentration of the cell sap in plant root hairs is greater than the concentration of the soil solution, so the osmotic pressures of the two differ. At this time the soil solution can continuously permeate into the root hair cells, and the root hairs can absorb water and nutrients from the soil to supply the growth and development of the flowers. If the concentration of the applied liquid fertilizer is too high (its concentration greater than the cell sap concentration), a reverse phenomenon will occur, that is, the cell sap instead permeates into the soil solution, causing the root cells to lose water and causing plasmolysis, and in severe cases causing the plant to wither and die. The principle is similar to pickling vegetables at home: put salt and vegetables into a water vat, and before long the salt water becomes dilute and the vegetables become wilted. This phenomenon mostly occurs when too much chemical fertilizer is applied; a similar phenomenon will also occur if composted liquid fertilizer is applied too concentrated. Therefore, the concentration of chemical fertilizer solution applied to potted flowers must not be too high, generally about 0.1% is suitable. When applying composted liquid fertilizer, it also needs to be diluted 5 to 10 times.

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Middle Volume)

34．Why are eggshells and tea dregs harmful to flowers？

35.What effect does air humidity have on the growth of foliage plants？

36.Why should air humidity be increased when growing flowers on a balcony？

37.What soils are commonly used for growing potted flowers？ 
Various flowers and their different growth and development stages have different soil requirements. The commonly used potting soil materials are roughly the following: Plain surface sand soil. This is a fine surface sand soil, pure in texture, containing few clay particles, and draining smoothly. This soil is often used for sowing general flowers, or for cuttings of stems and buds of herbaceous flowers and softwood cuttings of woody flowers, and is also a main material for preparing culture soil. Peat soil, also called turfy soil, is collected from peat bogs. It is formed by the continuous accumulation of organic matter under waterlogged and anaerobic conditions, and its organic matter content varies, with some reaching more than 80%-90%. It contains large amounts of fiber and humic acid. It is soft in texture, has strong fertilizer adsorption and water retention capacity, and good water and air permeability. Peat soil is acidic or neutral, contains organic matter, and is suitable as cutting soil for slow-rooting evergreen flowering trees, or mixed half-and-half with plain surface sand soil as sowing and cutting soil for general flowers. It can also be used to prepare culture soil. Garden soil. The matured loam on the surface layer of gardens can be used as flowerbed soil or to prepare culture soil. Furnace ash soil. Furnace ash soil has strong drainage and aeration, and can be used to prepare culture soil. Sieved furnace ash residue can be placed at the bottom of pots as a drainage layer. Mountain forest humus soil. It is formed from naturally accumulated dead branches and fallen leaves, mosses, and wind-blown sand in mountain forests after fermentation and decomposition. Humus soil becomes culture soil after slight preparation. River mud. It is the sediment soil of fish ponds and lotus ponds, containing large amounts of organic matter. After being dug out in autumn or winter, dried and weathered through the winter, and mixed half-and-half with yellow clay, it can be used as cultivation soil for aquatic flowers such as lotus and water lilies. River mud dried in the sun and repeatedly turned and crushed can be used to prepare culture soil after one year. Mountain soil. This soil is commonly known as orchid soil. It is natural humus soil produced in the mountainous areas of Zhejiang, formed by the rotting of fallen leaves accumulated over many years. It is light in texture, both air-permeable and draining, and also water- and fertilizer-retentive. It is a good potting soil, slightly acidic, suitable for cultivating acid-loving orchids, rhododendrons, camellias, etc., and can be used as cultivation soil for tree stump bonsai. Guangdong pond mud. It is the fertile pond mud lumps of South China, the surface soil deposited over many years at the bottom of fish ponds, gray-black in color, containing decomposed remains and excrement of aquatic animals, rich in organic matter, with sufficient nutrients and good drainage. It is dug up in winter when the pond is dry, dried in the sun, crushed, and sifted for later use. Large particles can be placed at the bottom of pots; because they are not easy to break apart, there is absolutely no risk of water stagnation. It is neutral or slightly acidic.

38.What are acidic soil and alkaline soil？ 
Soil acidity and alkalinity is a term for measuring how much acid and alkali are contained in the soil. PH value is the symbol indicating the degree of acidity and alkalinity, and its corresponding values are as follows: PH value 3-4 5 6 7 8 9 10-11 Indicates strongly acidic acidic weakly acidic neutral weakly alkaline alkaline strongly alkaline Soil with a pH value less than 7 is acidic soil, and soil with a pH value greater than 7 is alkaline soil. Table of various flowers and trees adapting to soil acidity and alkalinity: Acid-tolerant flowers and trees (pH4--5) Rhododendron, cyclamen, gardenia, coleus, purple spiderwort, ferns, orchid family plants, etc. Suitable for weakly acidic flowers and trees (pH5--6) Cyclamen, begonia, amaryllis, primrose, camellia, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, five-needle pine, lily, gladiolus, palm family, white orchid, gloxinia, etc. Adapt to neutral to slightly acidic flowers and trees (pH6--7) Chrysanthemum, asparagus fern, Chinese rose, narcissus, hyacinth, osmanthus, four-season primrose, asparagus, poinsettia, fuchsia, taro, clivia, purple magnolia, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. Suitable for neutral to slightly alkaline flowers and trees (pH7-8) Rose, dianthus, geranium, cacti, winter jasmine, boxwood, nandina, sweet pea, flowering almond, sabina chinensis, etc.
39.How can the acidity and alkalinity of potting soil be measured with a simple method? 
The simplest method for measuring pH value is to buy some pH test paper, litmus paper, and a standard color comparison card from a chemical reagent store for measurement. When measuring, take a small spoonful of potting soil and place it in the bottom of a clean bowl. Add a small amount of distilled water until it just covers the test soil, and do not add too much. Then stir evenly and let it settle; this is the soil extract. Use a bamboo stick to dip a little soil extract onto a small piece of test paper. If it turns red it is acidic, and if it turns yellow it is alkaline. The color shown by the test paper can be compared with the standard color comparison card, and the color card number closest in color is the pH value of the measured potting soil.

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Middle Volume)

40.What role do the three major fertilizer elements play in potted flowers？

41.When potting soil lacks fertilizer, what adverse phenomena appear in plant growth？

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Middle Volume)

42There are three methods of fertilizing potted flowers：

43.What issues should be noted when fertilizing potted flowers？

(3) When fertilizing on a balcony, pay attention to environmental hygiene, and at the same time be careful not to dirty the clothes hung to dry on the balcony below, which would affect neighborly relations.

45. Why do potted flowers need repotting? How to slip-pot and repot？

Repotting refers to potted flowers that have already been grown into shape being repotted before spring growth begins, in combination with operations such as shaping and pruning, in order to keep the plant's form graceful and its growth vigorous for a long time. Repotting is generally carried out before spring sprouting; for winter sweet, camellia, plum blossom, winter jasmine and others that bloom in early spring, repotting can be done after flowering. For potted flowers that grow fast and bloom abundantly, such as jasmine, Chinese rose, hibiscus and pomegranate, repotting should be done every year; for slow-growing potted flowers such as camellia, azalea, citrus and conifers, repotting can be done once every 2--3 years. Do not water for a few days before repotting, so that the potting soil separates from the pot wall. Pare away 1/3 of the old soil from the original soil ball, and cut away some coiled roots and old roots. For potted flowers that have already been shaped, the same plant can be returned to the same pot; generally a pot one size larger is used; after removing from the pot, cut away the tangled fibrous roots and rotten roots, remove part of the original soil, and replace it with potting soil. Some flowers can also be divided at the same time as repotting.

47.Why are some herbaceous flowers unsuitable for transplanting？

48.Why do some herbaceous flowers need to be transplanted several times？

49.What tasks does the pruning of flowering shrubs include？ 
Pruning is one of the important means of growing flowering shrubs well; if all flowering shrubs are allowed to grow naturally, they will lose their proper ornamental value. Pruning can not only create a good plant form, but also regulate the reasonable distribution and supply of nutrients within the plant, prevent excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves, help flower bud differentiation and bud formation; it can also create good ventilation and light conditions and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

50.How to prune and shape foliage plants？ 
Some large foliage plants, such as rubber tree, bamboo palm, coconut palm, Swiss cheese plant and umbrella plant, have fairly large bodies; if pruned diligently, their growth can be promoted, making them strong and beautiful. Topping can make the plant's leaves dense and its form well proportioned, preventing excessive vegetative growth; cutting away surplus lateral buds can make the plant upright and straight.
Some smaller plants, such as artillery plant, Peperomia and aloe, need pruning to look beautiful and luxuriant; therefore, before new buds begin to grow, poor branches must be cut away to maintain a graceful shape.
To keep foliage plants from growing excessively, a certain height must be determined, so the terminal buds of stems or branches must be cut off frequently to inhibit growth and make the plant dwarf or bushy. This is a pruning principle different from that for ordinary outdoor plants.

51.Does keeping flowers indoors for a long time affect health？ 
Some people worry that keeping plants indoors for a long time may affect human health, but this is actually groundless fear. During the day plants carry out photosynthesis and release far more oxygen than they themselves need for respiration; at night, although photosynthesis stops, their respiration is also extremely weak. Foliage plants in particular respire even more weakly than flowering plants (flowering plants respire most heavily during the bud-forming and flowering stages) and need even less oxygen.
Someone once did such an experiment: through respiration, 1 molecule of oxygen can produce 1 molecule of carbon dioxide, while the amount of oxygen needed to light 2 matches is equivalent to the respiration of two or three indoor plants in one night. It can be seen that the carbon dioxide exhaled by ornamental plants is negligible. From this it appears that indoor plants have no effect on human health. On the contrary, many indoor ornamental plants are also beneficial to people. For example, begonia, asparagus fern and asparagus, besides being able to absorb carbon dioxide, can also secrete bactericidal substances, which help prevent colds, typhoid, laryngitis and other diseases. In addition, plants can also reduce indoor dust, clean the air, and increase negative oxygen ions, enabling people to live in a fresh and healthy environment.

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Middle Volume)

52.Why are most modern indoor ornamental plants mainly foliage plants？ 
People cannot be separated from nature. In today's world, in cities full of towering buildings, people cannot own courtyard green space and can only use indoor plants to bring the fresh feeling of nature into their homes, and it is precisely foliage plants that hold an absolute advantage among indoor plants. In a bedroom, study or reception room, placing a few ornamental plants not only adds color and charm to the home, but also, after work or in a break from "writing," a glance at the verdant and varied green "artworks" one has grown oneself makes one feel that fatigue vanishes and the mind is refreshed.
Foliage plants have leaves of different forms and gorgeous variety, and can stay evergreen through all four seasons; therefore they can be enjoyed all year round without being restricted by season, with appreciation focused mainly on the posture and color of their leaves. Secondly, foliage plants are relatively shade-tolerant and prefer warm, humid environments; in terms of light and nutrients, their requirements are much lower than those of flowering and fruiting plants.
Some flowering plants also have the characteristics of foliage plants, for example: oleander, orchid, clivia, anthurium, bird of paradise, dwarf gloxinia and so on.
Foliage plants are mostly ideal materials for indoor greening and decoration. In our country, foliage plants are still in a rising stage; although they have already occupied the major hotels and restaurants, they have not yet become widespread in family homes. It is believed that in the not-too-distant future, foliage plants will enter thousands of households.

53.Which foliage plants are suitable for home cultivation？ 
Some plants are outstanding not for their flowers but for their leaves. Their greatest characteristic is that they are not restricted by the blooming and fading of flowers and can be enjoyed at any time throughout the year. Among them are those appreciated for their form, such as Swiss cheese plant, Japanese fatsia, broadleaf lady palm, asparagus fern and sword fern. There are also those appreciated for their color, such as redwood, red maple, red-backed eurya and purple spiderwort. There are also those rich in both form and color, such as coleus, purple velvet plant and spotted dumb cane. There are also those that are enjoyed both for flowers and leaves, such as clivia, Chloranthus and four-season epiphyllum. In a family home, placing a few pots creates a unique touch of graceful and novel pleasure. Below are several kinds suitable for the home and easy to cultivate:

54.Which flowers are suitable for hanging baskets？ 
Hanging basket flowers are a decoration for beautifying balconies and interiors. They can make full use of space and are most suited to environments with small balcony and room areas. With flower pots suspended indoors, outside the balcony or at windows, the branches and leaves sway in the wind, creating a unique charm. The hanging basket fixture must be firm. The height of the hanging basket should, in principle, not interfere with daily life. For the hanging cord, besides nylon rope, the chains used for hanging lamps and lanterns are even more beautiful. For the care of hanging basket flowers, besides referring to the care of potted flowers, the direction of the hanging basket must also be changed frequently so that different parts can all receive sunlight. Sun-loving kinds cannot be hung indoors for a long time. Flowers suitable for hanging basket cultivation must have soft, trailing branches or flower stems. For example: purple spiderwort, stringy stonecrop, inch plant, strawberry geranium and so on are all easy-to-cultivate kinds; the last three are introduced below:

The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Middle Volume)

55.What are the characteristics of climbing plants? Are they suitable for home cultivation？ 
In the wonderful natural world, plant forms are endlessly varied. Some plants have soft stems that cannot stand upright and need to twine around or attach to other objects to grow upward; therefore they are called climbing plants. Climbing plants of every description can be divided by their climbing method into:
(1) Twining climbers, such as morning glory, cypress vine, fleeceflower, honeysuckle and wisteria, which can twine around other objects and climb upward.
(2) Attachment climbers, such as grape and loofah, which climb by means of tendrils; Boston ivy and American bittersweet, which climb by means of suckers; and trumpet vine and ivy, which climb by means of aerial roots.

56.How to choose and buy foliage plants？ 
When choosing and buying foliage plants, decide according to the actual conditions and requirements of the exhibition room, hall or living room, such as the size of the room, light, temperature and the decorative effect desired. When first starting to grow them, choose varieties that are easy to cultivate, and after gaining rich experience, choose those that are more difficult to grow. For example, artillery plant and red-edged ti can both adapt quickly to the environment and are easy to grow well, while Philodendron and Maranta plants require extra care.
When choosing at the market, pick plants with bright, glossy leaves and no yellow leaves or disease spots. Also turn over and look at the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot; it is best to choose one with no fibrous roots growing out of the bottom hole. In addition, a plant with a neat and beautiful form, vigorous growth and no excessively elongated branches is even better.
On the way home, the newly purchased plant should be wrapped in a plastic bag to prevent wind damage or injury. Because of the bumpy journey, the swaying of the plant will loosen the fibrous roots. After returning home, place the plant in a humid area without strong light and with good ventilation, keep the potting soil moist to encourage root growth, and after a few days place it in its intended position; this is called the recovery treatment. After this recovery treatment, the plant can adapt to the indoor growing environment and begin to grow

57.How to choose flower pots？

For potted flowering plants, the material of the flower pot and the size of its volume have a great influence on the growth of the plant, so choosing flower pots reasonably is very important. An ideal flower pot should have: light material, convenient to carry; durable and not easily broken; color, shape, thickness and size suited to the needs of the plant's growth, and available in many specifications and models; low price and other conditions.

59.How to set up a shade shed for growing flowers on a balcony？

60.Where is a good position indoors for large foliage plants？

Recommended reading:The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (First Volume)