What to Do When Fatsia Leaves Droop? Four Tricks to Make the Leaves Stand Upright and Tall

The leaves of Fatsia japonica are usually glossy green and stand upright and tall, but if the cultivation method or environment has problems, you may encounter drooping leaves. What should you do if Fatsia leaves droop? The editor will tell you the causes and the answers.

What to Do When Fatsia Leaves Droop

Research shows that the main causes of drooping Fatsia leaves fall into four aspects: dry and hardened soil, water accumulation in the pot, excessive fertilizing, and direct sun exposure. So to solve the drooping problem, you need to start from these four causes.

1. Dry and Hardened Soil

Fatsia japonica has rather poor drought tolerance. If the soil becomes dry and hardened, the roots will struggle to absorb the necessary water, and the result is drooping leaves, with the whole plant looking listless and lifeless. The solutions are as follows.

① Water reasonably: when watering, keep the soil slightly moist, and avoid leaving the soil unwatered for long periods, which causes it to dry and harden.

② Loosen the soil often: dry, hardened soil is often the result of not loosening the soil regularly. Loosening the soil not only increases aeration but also improves drainage, but do not damage the roots when loosening.

③ Use sandy soil: for example, use a mix of leaf mold, garden soil, and so on as potting soil for cultivation, which can effectively prevent the problem of drooping Fatsia leaves.

2. Water Accumulation in the Pot

Fatsia japonica also has poor water tolerance. If water accumulates in the pot for a long time, root rot may occur, which indirectly causes the leaves to droop.

Solution: water accumulation is often caused by overwatering and poor soil drainage, so do not water excessively, and the soil should drain well.

3. Direct Sun Exposure

If a person stays in the sun for too long, they will not only feel listless but may also suffer symptoms such as heatstroke. In fact, if Fatsia japonica is exposed to direct sun for a long time, it will also develop drooping, listless leaves.

Solution: avoid direct sunlight on Fatsia japonica, move it to a shady place for care, and usually just place it in a bright spot for growing.

4. Excessive Fertilizing

Some flower lovers think that giving plants more fertilizer can promote their growth, but botanists have found through research that too much fertilizer often causes root burn, resulting in drooping leaves, and Fatsia japonica is no exception.

Solution: never over-fertilize; fertilizing once about every 20 days is enough, and pay attention to balanced nutrition. Do not apply only nitrogen fertilizer, nor only phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. This can prevent drooping Fatsia leaves from occurring.

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31．What Are the Benefits of Foliar Feeding？
Foliar feeding, also called leaf feeding, is a fertilizing method in which a diluted solution of chemical fertilizer or trace elements is sprayed on the leaf surface and absorbed and used by the plant through the leaf stomata. The main advantages of foliar feeding are: a small dosage, significant and rapid fertilizer effect, no fixation by the soil, and no influence from the absorptive function of the root system.

32．Why Can't Uncomposted Fertilizer Be Applied？
Some flower enthusiasts often bury rotten eggs, the internal organs of chickens, ducks and fish, meat skins, raw horse manure, cake fertilizer, and so on into the potting soil. They think this can increase nutrients and make the flowers bloom abundantly and grow lush leaves, but the result is contrary to their wishes and instead harms the flowers. Why is this? Because the growth and development of flowers relies on absorbing various nutrient elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron... that have been fermented and dissolved in water in the soil. The above-mentioned rotting foods, if directly buried in the pot without fermentation, will ferment upon contact with water and generate high temperatures, which will directly scald the flower roots. In addition, microbial activity causes soil oxygen deficiency, leading to the death of the flowers. At the same time, uncomposted fertilizer produces a foul odor during fermentation, attracting flies to lay eggs, and maggots can also bite the root system, harming flower growth; the odor can also pollute the environment. Therefore, when growing flowers, pay attention to applying fully composted fertilizer to ensure good flower growth.

33．What Harm Does Applying Concentrated Fertilizer Do？
Applying liquid fertilizer at too high a concentration often causes flower branches and leaves to turn yellow and wither, and even the whole plant to die. What is the reason? Because under normal conditions, the concentration of the cell sap in the plant's root hairs is greater than the concentration of the soil solution, so the osmotic pressures of the two differ. At this time, the soil solution can continuously permeate into the root hair cells, and the root hairs can absorb water and nutrients from the soil to supply the growth and development of the flowers. If the concentration of the liquid fertilizer applied is too high (its concentration is greater than the depth of the cell sap), a reverse phenomenon occurs, that is, the cell sap instead permeates into the soil solution, causing the root cells to lose water and inducing plasmolysis, and in severe cases causing the plant to wither and die. The principle is similar to pickling vegetables at home: put salt and vegetables into a water vat, and before long, the salt water becomes diluted and the vegetables become wilted. This phenomenon mostly occurs when too much chemical fertilizer is applied; a similar phenomenon also occurs if composted liquid fertilizer is applied too concentrated. Therefore, the concentration of chemical fertilizer solution applied to potted flowers must not be too high, generally around 0.1 percent is suitable. When applying composted liquid fertilizer, it also needs to be diluted 5 to 10 times to be appropriate.

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34．Why Are Eggshells and Tea Leaves Harmful to Flowers？

35.What Effect Does Air Humidity Have on the Growth of Foliage Plants？

36.Why Should Air Humidity Be Increased for Flowers Grown on Balconies？

37.What Soils Are Commonly Used for Potted Flowers？ 
Various flowers and their different growth and development stages have different soil requirements. The commonly used potting soil materials are roughly the following: Plain sandy soil. This is a fine sandy soil with a pure texture, low clay content, and smooth drainage. This soil is often used for sowing general flowers, or for cuttings of herbaceous flower branches and buds and softwood cuttings of woody flowers, and is also a main material for preparing culture soil. Peat soil. Also called turf soil, it is collected from peat bogs. It is formed after organic matter continuously accumulates under waterlogged and anaerobic conditions. Its organic matter content varies, with some reaching as high as more than 80 percent to 90 percent, and it contains large amounts of fiber and humic acid. It is soft in texture, has strong fertilizer adsorption and water retention capacity, and good permeability and aeration. Peat soil is acidic or neutral, contains organic matter, and is suitable as soil for cuttings of slow-rooting evergreen flowering trees, or mixed half-and-half with plain sandy soil for sowing and cuttings of general flowers. It can also be used to prepare culture soil. Garden soil. The matured loam on the surface layer of gardens can be used as soil for flower beds or to prepare culture soil. Furnace ash soil. Furnace ash soil has strong drainage and aeration and can be used to prepare culture soil. Sifted furnace ash residue can be placed at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Mountain forest humus soil. It is formed by the natural accumulation and subsequent fermentation and decomposition of mountain forest dead branches and fallen leaves, moss, and wind-blown sand. Humus soil can be made into culture soil with slight preparation. River mud. It is the sediment soil of fish ponds and lotus ponds, containing large amounts of organic matter. After being dug out in autumn or winter, dried in winter, weathered, and mixed half-and-half with yellow clay, it can be used as cultivation soil for aquatic flowers such as lotus and water lilies. After river mud is dried in the sun, repeatedly turned and broken up, after one year it can be used to prepare culture soil. Mountain soil. This soil is commonly known as orchid soil. It is natural humus soil produced in the mountainous areas of Zhejiang, formed by the rotting of fallen leaves accumulated over many years. It is light in texture, both breathable and draining, and also retains water and fertilizer. It is a good potting soil, slightly acidic, suitable for cultivating acid-loving orchids, rhododendrons, camellias, and so on, and can be used as cultivation soil for tree stump bonsai. Guangdong pond mud. It is the fertile pond mud clumps of southern China, the surface soil deposited over many years at the bottom of fish ponds. It is gray-black in color, contains decomposed remains and excrement of aquatic animals, is rich in organic matter, has sufficient nutrients, and drains well. When ponds dry up in winter, it is dug out, dried in the sun, broken up, and sifted for later use. Large particles can be placed at the bottom of the pot; because they are not easy to break apart, there is absolutely no risk of water stagnation. It is neutral or slightly acidic.

38.What Are Acidic Soil and Alkaline Soil？ 
Soil acidity and alkalinity is a term for measuring how much acid and alkali is contained in the soil. pH is the symbol indicating the degree of acidity and alkalinity, and its corresponding values to acidity and alkalinity are as follows: pH value 3-4 5 6 7 8 9 10-11, indicating strongly acidic acidic weakly acidic neutral weakly alkaline alkaline strongly alkaline. Soil with a pH value less than 7 is acidic soil, and soil with a pH value greater than 7 is alkaline soil. Table of various flowers and trees adapting to soil acidity and alkalinity: Acid-tolerant flowers and trees (pH 4-5): rhododendron, cyclamen, gardenia, coleus, Tradescantia pallida, ferns, orchid family plants, and so on. Flowers and trees suitable for weakly acidic soil (pH 5-6): cyclamen, begonia, Hippeastrum, primrose, camellia, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, five-needle pine, lily, gladiolus, palm family, Michelia alba, gloxinia, and so on. Flowers and trees adapted to neutral to slightly acidic soil (pH 6-7): chrysanthemum, asparagus fern, rose, narcissus, hyacinth, osmanthus, four-season primrose, asparagus, poinsettia, fuchsia, calla lily, clivia, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, and so on. Flowers and trees suitable for neutral to slightly alkaline soil (pH 7-8): rose, dianthus, pelargonium, cacti, winter jasmine, boxwood, nandina, sweet pea, flowering almond, sabina, and so on.
39.How Can the Acidity and Alkalinity of Potting Soil Be Measured by a Simple Method? 
The simplest method for measuring pH value is to buy some pH test paper, litmus paper, and a standard color chart from a chemical reagent store for measurement. When measuring, take a small spoonful of potting soil and place it in the bottom of a clean bowl. Add a small amount of distilled water until it just covers the test soil, and do not use too much. Then stir evenly and let it settle; this is the soil extract. Use a bamboo stick to dip a little soil extract onto a small piece of test paper. If it turns red, it is acidic; if it turns yellow, it is alkaline. You can compare the color shown on the test paper with the standard color chart, find the color card number closest to that color, and that is the pH value of the potting soil being measured.

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40.What Role Do the Three Major Fertilizer Elements Play in Potted Flowers？

41.When Potting Soil Lacks Fertilizer, What Poor Growth Phenomena Appear in Plants？

The Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (Middle Volume)

42. There Are Three Methods of Fertilizing Potted Flowers：

43.What Problems Should Be Noted When Fertilizing Potted Flowers？

(3) When fertilizing on a balcony, pay attention to environmental hygiene, and at the same time be careful not to dirty the clothes dried on the balcony downstairs, which would affect neighborly relations.

45. Why Do Potted Flowers Need Repotting? How to Repot and Change Pots？

Changing pots refers to potted flowers that have already been cultivated into shape, in order to maintain a beautiful plant shape and long-lasting vigorous growth, carried out before spring sprouting in combination with operations such as shaping and pruning. Changing pots is generally carried out before spring germination. For wintersweet, camellia, plum blossom, winter jasmine, and others that bloom in early spring, the pot can be changed after flowering. For potted flowers that grow quickly and bloom abundantly, such as jasmine, rose, hibiscus, and pomegranate, the pot should be changed every year; for potted flowers that grow slowly, such as camellia, rhododendron, citrus, and coniferous and cypress types, the pot can be changed once every 2 to 3 years. Do not water for a few days before changing the pot, so that the potting soil separates from the pot wall. Cut away 1/3 of the old soil from the original soil ball, and cut away some coiled roots and old roots. For potted flowers whose shape is already fixed, the same plant can be changed into the same pot; generally a pot one size larger is used. After taking it out of the pot, the tangled fibrous roots and rotten roots should be trimmed away, part of the original soil removed, and culture soil added. Some flowers can also be divided when changing pots.

47.Why Are Some Herbaceous Flowers Unsuitable for Transplanting？

48.Why Do Some Herbaceous Flowers Need Several Rounds of Seedling Transplanting？

49.What Tasks Does Pruning of Flowering Trees Include？ 
Pruning is one of the important means of growing flowering trees well. If all flowering trees are allowed to grow naturally, they will lose their due ornamental value. Pruning can not only create a good plant shape, but also regulate the reasonable distribution and supply of nutrients within the body, prevent excessive growth of branches and leaves, help flower bud differentiation and bud formation; and can create good ventilation and light transmission conditions, reducing the occurrence of pests and diseases.

50.How Are Foliage Plants Pruned and Shaped？ 
Some large foliage plants, such as rubber tree, bamboo palm, coconut palm, Monstera deliciosa, and Schefflera, have relatively large bodies. If pruned frequently, plant growth can be promoted, making them strong and beautiful. Topping can make the plant's leaves dense and the plant shape well-proportioned, preventing excessive growth; cutting away excess lateral buds can make the plant upright and tall.
Some smaller plants, such as Pilea, Peperomia, and aloe, need pruning to appear beautiful and lush. Therefore, before new buds begin to grow, poor branches must be cut away to maintain a graceful shape.
In order to prevent foliage plants from growing excessively at will, a certain height must be determined, so the terminal buds of stems or branches must be cut frequently to inhibit growth and make them dwarf or clustered. This is different from the general pruning principles for outdoor plants.

51.Does Keeping Flowers Indoors for a Long Time Affect Health？ 
Some people worry that keeping plants indoors for a long time may affect human health, but this is actually unfounded anxiety. During the day, plants carry out photosynthesis, releasing far more oxygen than they themselves need for respiration. At night, although photosynthesis stops, their respiration is also extremely weak. Especially foliage plants, whose respiration is even weaker than that of flowering plants (flowering plants have the greatest respiration during the bud formation and flowering stages), require even less oxygen.
Someone once did such an experiment: through respiration, 1 molecule of oxygen can produce 1 molecule of carbon dioxide, while the amount of oxygen needed to light 2 matches is equivalent to the respiration of two or three indoor plants in one night. It can be seen that the carbon dioxide exhaled by ornamental plants is negligible. From this point of view, indoor plants have no effect on human health. On the contrary, many indoor ornamental plants are also beneficial to people. For example, begonia, asparagus fern, and asparagus, in addition to absorbing carbon dioxide gas, can also secrete bactericidal substances, which help prevent colds, typhoid, laryngitis, and other diseases. In addition, plants can also reduce indoor dust, clean the air, and increase negative oxygen ions, allowing people to live in a fresh and healthy environment.

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52.Why Are Most Modern Indoor Ornamental Plants Mainly Foliage Plants？ 
People cannot be separated from nature. In today's world, in cities full of high-rise buildings, people cannot have courtyard green space, and can only rely on indoor plants to bring the freshness of nature into their homes, and it is precisely foliage plants that hold an absolute advantage among indoor plants. In a bedroom, study, or reception room, placing a few pots of ornamental plants not only adds color and charm to the home, but also, after work or in the gaps between "writing," a glance at the green "artworks" you cultivated yourself, verdant and full of variety, makes you feel fatigue vanish and your mind refreshed.
Foliage plants have leaves of various forms and brilliant variety, and can remain evergreen through the four seasons. Therefore they can be appreciated year-round without seasonal restrictions, with the main appeal being the posture and color of their leaves. Second, foliage plants are relatively shade-tolerant and prefer warm, humid environments. In terms of light and nutrients, their requirements are much lower than those of flowering and fruiting plants.
Some flowering plants also have the characteristics of foliage plants, for example: oleander, orchid, clivia, anthurium, bird of paradise, dwarf gloxinia, and so on.
Foliage plants are mostly ideal materials for indoor greening and decoration. In our country, foliage plants are still in a rising stage. Although they have already occupied major hotels and restaurants, they have not yet become widespread in family homes. It is believed that in the not-too-distant future, foliage plants will enter thousands of households.

53.What Kinds of Foliage Plants Are Suitable for Home Cultivation？ 
Some plants do not stand out for their flowers, but win by their leaves. Their greatest characteristic is that they are not limited by flowering and fading, and can be appreciated at any time throughout the year. Among them are those appreciated for form, such as Monstera deliciosa, Fatsia japonica, Rhapis excelsa, asparagus fern, and sword fern. There are also those appreciated for color, such as redwood, red maple, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, and Tradescantia pallida. There are also those with both form and color, such as coleus, purple velvet plant, and dieffenbachia. There are also clivia, pearl orchid, and four-season epiphyllum that are appreciated both for flowers and leaves. In a family home, placing a few pots creates a unique kind of graceful and novel pleasure. Below are several types suitable for the home and easy to cultivate:

54.What Flowers Are Suitable for Hanging Basket Planting？ 
Hanging basket flowers are a decoration for beautifying balconies and interiors. They can make full use of space and are most suitable for environments with small balconies and living room areas. With flower pots suspended indoors, on the outer side of balconies, or at windows, the branches and leaves sway with the wind, creating a unique charm. The hanging basket device must be firm. The height of the hanging basket should be based on the principle of not hindering daily life. For the hanging rope, besides nylon rope, using the chains for hanging lamps and lanterns is even more beautiful. For the care of hanging basket flowers, in addition to referring to the care of potted flowers, the direction of the hanging basket should also be changed frequently, so that different parts can receive sunlight. Sun-loving types cannot be hung indoors for a long time. Flowers suitable for hanging basket planting must have soft, drooping branches or flower scapes. For example: Tradescantia pallida, Sedum sarmentosum, Zebrina pendula, and Saxifraga stolonifera are all easy-to-cultivate types. The latter three are introduced below:

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55.What Characteristics Do Climbing Plants Have? Are They Suitable for Home Cultivation？ 
In the wonderful natural world, plant shapes are diverse. Some plants have soft stems that cannot stand upright and need to twine around or attach to other objects to grow upward, so they are called climbing plants. Various climbing plants, according to their climbing methods, can be divided into:
(1) Twining climbers, such as morning glory, cypress vine, Polygonum multiflorum, honeysuckle, and wisteria, which can twine around other objects and climb upward.
(2) Attachment climbers, such as grape and loofah, which climb by means of tendrils; Boston ivy and Virginia creeper, which climb by means of suction cups; and Chinese trumpet creeper and ivy, which climb by means of aerial roots.

56.How to Choose and Buy Foliage Plants？ 
When choosing and buying foliage plants, decide according to the actual conditions and requirements of the exhibition room, hall, or living room, such as the size of the room, light, temperature, and the decorative effect desired. When just starting to grow them, buy varieties that are easy to cultivate, and after accumulating rich experience, choose those that are more difficult to grow. For example, Pilea and red-edged dracaena can quickly adapt to the environment and are easy to grow well; while Philodendron and Maranta plants require extra care.
When buying at the market, choose plants with bright, lustrous leaf color and no yellow leaves or disease spots. Also turn over and look at the bottom hole of the pot; it is best to choose ones where no roots have grown out through the bottom hole. In addition, ones with a neat and beautiful plant shape, vigorous growth, and no excessively growing branches are even better.
On the way home, the newly purchased plant should be wrapped well in a plastic bag to prevent wind damage or injury. Because of the bumpy journey, the swaying of the plant will loosen the fibrous roots. After returning home, place the plant in a humid area without strong light and with good ventilation, keep the potting soil moist to encourage rooting, and after a few days of care, place it in the position where it is to be displayed. This is called the seedling acclimation treatment. After the seedling acclimation treatment, the plant can adapt to the indoor growing environment and begin to grow.

57.How to choose a flower pot？

For potted flowers and trees, the material of the pot and the size of its volume have a great influence on the growth of the flowers and trees, so choosing a flower pot reasonably is very important. An ideal flower pot should have: a light material, convenient to carry; durable, not easy to break; colors, shapes, thickness, and sizes that can meet the needs of flower and tree growth, and a variety of specifications and models; and a low price.

59.How to set up a shade shed when growing flowers on a balcony？

60.Where is a good place to put large foliage plants indoors？

Recommended reading:The Practical Complete Guide to Home Flower Growing (First Volume)

Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm

Part One: "Compilation of Southern Plants"

Frangipani

Frangipani, its flowers really resemble eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like the white and yolk of an egg, and they look really cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the branch tips. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and is very suitable for careful appreciation. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its form is quite beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, sunny environment with good drainage. It is naturally robust and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and dislikes waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but it is also resistant to alkalinity. For cultivation, deep, fertile, well-aerated acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter is best. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting frangipani, attention should also be paid to pest and disease control. For example, if brown small spots appear on the leaves or even the leaves turn dark black, that is because of frangipani leaf spot, and at this time measures should be taken. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so frangipani needs care and attention. In fact, besides white, frangipani also comes in red and yellow, and all can be used to extract essential oils for making high-grade cosmetics, soap, and food additives, with a rather high price and great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for brewing tea, commonly known as frangipani tea, which has the effect of treating heat dysentery and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The frangipani tree has a beautiful form, with many branches on the stem in strange shapes and countless variations; the leaves resemble those of loquat, and after they fall in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branch tips, much like deer antlers adorned with beautiful spots, making it a top-choice small tree for tropical landscaping, courtyard arrangement, and potted appreciation. The bark is thin and grayish green, rich in poisonous white sap, which can be used externally to treat scabies, redness and swelling, and other conditions. The wood is white, light, and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware, or furniture. Frangipani flower meaning: breeding hope, revival, rebirth, as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, without distance.

Yulan magnolia

Yulan magnolia is a tall deciduous tree. The bark is dark gray, rough, and cracked; the twigs are slightly stout and grayish brown; the winter buds and flower stalks are densely covered with pale grayish yellow long silky hairs. The leaves are papery, obovate, broadly obovate, or obovate-elliptic, and the leaves on vigorous shoots at the base are elliptic. Yulan magnolia flowers resemble lotus flowers. When in full bloom, the petals spread in all directions, making the courtyard appear in patches of blue-white with dazzling white light, and it has high ornamental value; together with waves of delicate fragrance that refresh the heart, it is truly an ideal flower form for beautifying courtyards. Yulan magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open ground. It loves dryness and dislikes low humidity; waterlogging at the planting site easily causes root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Yulan magnolia has strong resistance to harmful gases. For example, if this flower is planted in a factory polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. Using sulfur dioxide for artificial fumigation, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 g of sulfur. Therefore, Yulan magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant greening tree species in areas with atmospheric pollution. Yulan magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant and not tolerant of strong light or western sun. Too strong light or western sun can easily scorch the trees. Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer. Besides applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year afterward. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously, with green and thick leaves, not only producing many buds but also large flowers, a long flowering period, and rich fragrance. Yulan magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance. Its main diseases include anthracnose, chlorosis, and leaf scorch. Besides ornamental value, Yulan magnolia also has medicinal and edible value. Yulan magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid, and others, and also contain magnoflorine, alkaloids, biond magnolia flower element, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A, and other components, and have certain medicinal value. Yulan magnolia flowers are pungent in flavor and warm in nature, and have the effects of dispelling wind and cold, opening the orifices, and freeing the lungs and nose. They can be used for headache, blood stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis, and other conditions. Modern pharmacological studies show that Yulan magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.

Yulan magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids, and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and cold and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks and can also be brewed as tea. The flower meaning of Yulan magnolia represents gratitude. Yulan magnolia often blooms large white flowers amid lush greenery, and with its fragrant scent it gives people a sense of indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because the tree is tall and the flowering position is relatively high, it sways in the wind with a spirited appearance, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, very lovely.

Maranta

Maranta is an herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, with single, relatively large leaves, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, leaf veins arranged in a feather-like pattern, in two rows, with entire margins. Maranta is a relatively good ground cover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant and likes a warm, humid environment with bright light. It is not cold-tolerant and not drought-tolerant, and fears scorching sun exposure. If direct sunlight hits it, it will scorch the leaves, causing local scorching at the leaf edges, stopping the growth of new leaves, and turning the leaf color yellow, so attention must be paid to shading during cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water. During the growing period, it should be watered fully to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." It requires sufficient care all 365 days; if the environment fluctuates greatly for a few days, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of maranta seedling traders and producers. Maranta family plants do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies, and others. Of course, it also has other value, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta starch is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings, and desserts. Add water and boil to form a transparent, odorless, delicious paste. Maranta starch is fine in texture. Compared with other starches, it can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest. It is especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and is also suitable for making light-flavored, low-salt, and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat lung-heat cough and painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder.

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The bark is dark gray or light grayish brown, with many branches. The young branches are reddish brown and densely covered with stellate hairs. The leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, with a short pointed apex, a rounded and oblique base, asymmetrical, with stellate hairs on both sides, entire margins, and dark red color. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. It has strong sprouting and branching ability and is tolerant of pruning. It tolerates poor soil, but is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has luxuriant branches and leaves, a graceful posture, is tolerant of pruning and wiring, and can be used for hedges and for making stump bonsai. When it blooms, the whole tree is covered with red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, and new leaves are bright red. Different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also differs. In garden applications, the main consideration is the contrast in leaf color brought by the two factors of leaf color and leaf size, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometer moths, yellow noctuid moths, black cutworm, large and small cutworms, and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum: anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear

as black round spots, or nearly round, causing early defoliation. It is seriously harmful in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinonema. The fungus overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the initial infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, it must be treated promptly.

Ornamental peach

Ornamental peach is a variety of peach. It is a tree, 3-8 m tall; the crown is broad and spreading; the bark is dark reddish brown, rough and scaly when old; the twigs are slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with many small lenticels; the winter buds are conical, blunt at the apex, covered with short soft hairs, often clustered 2-3 together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on both sides. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate, or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight, is drought-tolerant, and is not tolerant of humid environments. It likes a warm climate, has good cold tolerance, and can overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It does not like waterlogging; if planted in low-lying waterlogged places, seedling death easily occurs. Garden value: ornamental peach flowers are large and brightly colored, beautiful when blooming, with an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping, it is widely used by lakesides, streams, roadsides, and parks, etc. In small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted appreciation, and is also often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. A common form is also the weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects; the year it is planted, particularly good effects are already shown. It can be planted in rows, in groups, or as specimens, and the year it is planted, particularly good greening effects are already shown. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colorful nursery stock plants in landscaping, and is usually used together with plants such as purple-leaf plum and purple-leaf dwarf cherry. Flowering shrubs are configured together to form a scene of a hundred flowers blooming. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted from peach tree trunks, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive and is a polysaccharide substance. Hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid, and others. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood stasis, harmonizing blood, and supplementing qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases include: white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl. Main pests include aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, and red-necked longhorn beetles, etc.

Artificial plant community

1. Satsuki azalea + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' + thornless holly ball

These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three leaf-color plants are planted linearly, with rich leaf colors, plus large-specification thornless holly balls, forming a neat, full, and clearly layered roadside greening color band effect.

2. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Photinia × fraseri ball + Michelia figo + Japanese maple

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, and both its leaf color and flower color are very beautiful. The old leaves of the Photinia × fraseri ball are green, accented by the red new leaves, setting each other off and being extremely beautiful. The four plants are matched with rich layers and form a scenic road with longitudinal rhythm, spatial layering, and a strong sense of guidance.

3. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Japanese fatsia + Canary Island date palm + frangipani

This combination of plants is mainly green, with leaves both small (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) and coarse and large (Japanese fatsia, frangipani), while the Canary Island date palm adds a bit of tropical flavor. The layers are rich and it has the effect of narrowing space, making people feel close to it.

4. Moso bamboo + iris

Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a scattered bamboo, with spacing between the culms. The iris has a graceful posture and colorful and varied flower colors. The two matched together are very charming.

5. Small-leaf gardenia + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Japanese aucuba + osmanthus

Small-leaf gardenia has leaves like a sparrow's tongue and a low plant form, and can be used as the lowest-layer plant. Japanese aucuba has yellow spots in its leaf color and is a relatively good foliage plant. The tree osmanthus has a subtle fragrance that refreshes the heart. The arrangement has spacing and density, changes in leaf color, and added floral fragrance.

6. Azalea + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fagraea ceilanica + canna

Azalea has brilliant flowers, and with Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and Fagraea ceilanica as a foil, it is even more moving. Canna has coarse and large leaves, narrowing the space and making people feel close.

7. Ground-cover lawn + marigold + Photinia × fraseri + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum ball + Dan osmanthus

With green ground cover as the base, the bright yellow flowers of marigold are extremely beautiful. Behind the marigold, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and red Photinia serve as a foil, and the Dan osmanthus tree form spreads. Several plants set each other off, with rich variation.

8. Dwarf lilyturf + guava tree

Both dwarf lilyturf and guava tree have very good adaptability in Fuzhou and grow normally. The leaves of dwarf lilyturf are fine and soft, making it very suitable as ground cover. The guava tree bark is yellow and smooth, the posture is graceful, and the leaves are relatively large and well spaced, making it very suitable for open woodland paths.

9. Lawn + Agave americana var. marginata + pruned and shaped banyan tree + Senna bicapsularis

With green lawn as the base, agave leaves are coarse and large, and the leaf color is silver-yellow alternating with green, matching very harmoniously with the pruned and shaped banyan tree. Senna bicapsularis has a beautiful posture and brilliant flower color. This combination of plants has rich layers, with color changes that are nevertheless harmonious.

10. Liriope + broadleaf lady palm + areca palm + papaya tree

This plant configuration is suitable for one side of a small building. Liriope leaves are fine and soft, while broadleaf lady palm and areca palm leaves are coarser and larger, and papaya leaves are large and palm-shaped, with fruit borne on the trunk, and its posture is very graceful.

11. Copperleaf + Duranta erecta + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

As a plant combination for a pattern flower bed, copperleaf has bright leaf color and is used as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has dark purple leaf color. The three plants combined as a pattern flower bed are extremely attractive.

Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"

Landscaping maintenance and management plan

Maintenance and management are very important in landscaping. It is a long-term, repeated task with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and livestock, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grasses, and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, and planting of flower bed flowers. The completion of a green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.

Current characteristics of plants in the maintained park area:

1. The green area covers about 24,541.9 ten thousand sq m, with a high greening coverage rate, and there are large numbers of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned and shaped shrubs. The initial growth has gradually taken shape. After careful investigation, the plant planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original general layout plan:

1) Plaza area: The plant planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted with rows of ginkgo, zhennan, and large trees,

with appropriate matching of low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.

2) Factory area: The plant varieties in this area are complexly matched, with large and small trees, shrubs, and ground cover plants interplanted.

At the entrance, relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda, small-leaf banyan stump,

top-grade osmanthus, etc.) are dominant. Whether the office area courtyard can still maintain its elegant and refined, open and grand

scenery, and whether the hotel villa area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely, and relaxed atmosphere,

all depends on later maintenance and management.

2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: 1) Shaped shrubs are not growing well and their shapes are monotonous; 2) Flowering shrubs have poor tree vigor, and their flowering conditions (including number of flowers, flower size, color, and secondary flowering) are unsatisfactory; 3) There are many weeds in the lawn, and in local areas grassy weeds have a tendency to spread unchecked; 4) There are pest and disease problems.

1. We plan to take the following corrective measures:

1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out varied and graceful shaping of hedges and shrubs. For flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to encourage their growth and then shape them according to their form; this depends on the specific plant growth and plant form. The hedges in some local areas are highly regular, and the neat, uniform long strips undoubtedly make a courtyard that should be free and leisurely appear mechanical and rigid. We can likewise try pruning them into wave shapes, matching the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enlivening the atmosphere of the entire courtyard and also creating a more fluid living environment.

2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing pest and disease characteristics, immediately carry out large-area chemical control.

3、

4、

5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the workload of manual removal. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, and foliar fertilizer; different plants in different seasons all have different fertilization methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We classify and count all plants, then make green labels indicating their

family, genus, and species and their living habits, and label all plants in the area. In this way, it can both

enrich employees' general knowledge of plants and also add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and with eye-catching labels

bring more attention to the greening.

6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of one morning or one evening. While doing the corrective work well, we will likewise

adopt different maintenance and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month

(detailed rules attached), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to the utmost, and

likewise ask Party A to offer more opinions, so that our work can gradually become more perfect.

7. Maintenance responsibilities

Within the contracted maintenance period, our company will, in accordance with landscaping maintenance operating procedures and landscaping maintenance quality standards, organize reasonably, maintain carefully, and dispatch professional horticulturists to organize, guide, and arrange management and protection work, and according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, flexibly dispatch no fewer than ____ experienced workers to complete the maintenance and management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.

VI. Maintenance content

1. Management procedures: including watering, opening basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, and replanting (nursery stock costs calculated separately), etc., the entire process. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

2. Management tools:

A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, weed shoveling machines, lawn mowers

B. Sprayers, buckets, wheelbarrows, bamboo baskets

C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders

D. Fuel, repair costs

3. Maintenance content:

A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per plant, and topdress once, 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application, spraying, and water-fertilizer methods, etc., then cover with soil, water thoroughly, with a water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, promptly control pests and diseases, maintain the trees' natural growth state without shaping and pruning, promptly cut off yellow branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, shaded leggy branches, and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and promptly clean up pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure no weeds.

B. Shrubs, hedges, and bagged seedlings: fertilize once a quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer methods, etc. Water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with a water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, promptly control pests and diseases. For those pruned into round, square, or conical shapes, do minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth and attractive cut surfaces, promptly remove pruned material, promptly cut off dead branches and diseased and pest-infested branches, promptly replant old, diseased, and dead plants, and remove weeds once a week.

C. Herbaceous types: fertilize once a quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, using broadcast application and water-fertilizer methods, etc. Water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with a water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, promptly control pests and diseases, cut off spent flowers once a week and remove weeds once a week, and promptly cut off dead branches and yellow branches.

D. Taiwan grass: fertilize once a quarter, apply 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, apply fertilizer evenly and water thoroughly, with a water penetration depth of more than 5 cm, promptly control pests and diseases, promptly replant wilted and dead missing parts, with a coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times a month.

(II) Specific annual landscaping maintenance work schedule:

January: the month with the lowest temperature of the year, when open-ground trees are in a dormant state.

1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and branches that obstruct overhead lines and buildings on large and small trees.

2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking of street trees, and immediately rectify when loosened ties, wire cutting into bark, or loose stakes are found.

3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig out and collect the pupae and cocoons of nettle grubs, and burn them in a concentrated way. In mid-January, scale insects begin activity, but at this time they move slowly, and we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the trunks. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.

4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds, and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be promptly weeded and edged; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.

February: the temperature rises somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.

1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.

2. Pruning: continue pruning dead branches and diseased branches of large and small trees. Before the end of the month, finish pruning all kinds of trees.

3. Pest control: continue to focus on preventing nettle grubs and scale insects.

March: the temperature continues to rise. After mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellia) bloom.

1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do a good job of planning and design, dig (or hoe) the tree pits in advance, and ensure digging, transporting, planting, and watering are done promptly. When planting shrubs, also ensure digging, transporting, and planting are done promptly, and water fully to increase the seedling survival rate.

2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas promptly.

3. Fertilizing: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some nursery stock has developed sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion spraying for control). For nettle grub control, the method of digging out pupae can continue to be used.

April: the temperature continues to rise, and trees all sprout, bloom, or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.

1. Continue tree planting: in early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late, promptly pull out and replant shrubs that died in winter (azalea, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, etc.), and water newly planted trees fully.

2. Irrigation: continue to water maintained green spaces promptly.

3. Fertilizing: for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as topdressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

4. Pruning: cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and evergreen hedges can be pruned.

5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molt, scale insects successively move into bark cracks, tree holes, trunk bases, wall corners, and other places, secrete white waxy thin cocoons, and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom and then buried deeply in a concentrated way or soaked. Or use the method of spraying pesticides such as fenitrothion. (2) Longhorn beetles begin activity. A grafting knife or self-made steel wire can be used to pick out the larvae, but the wound should be as small as possible. (3) Control work for other pests and diseases.

6. Maintenance in green spaces: pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.

May: the temperature rises sharply, and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: during the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees need a great deal of water and should be watered in a timely manner.

2. Pruning: prune spent flowers. Street trees undergo their first bud-removal pruning.

3. Pest and disease control: continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of nettle grubs hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; make corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids, and others has also entered its peak period (on crape myrtle, Pittosporum tobira, oleander, etc.). In mid- and late May, spray 10-20 times diluted rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500-2000 times dilution to control diseases and kill pests. (Others can use pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao.)

June: high temperature

1. Watering: plants need a lot of water and must be watered promptly; do not "live by looking at the sky."

2. Fertilizing: Combine loosening the soil and weeding, fertilizing and watering to achieve the best results.

3. Pruning: Continue the work of disbudding and removing suckers on street trees. Carry out pruning on hedges, topiary balls and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Drainage work: In heavy rain weather, pay attention to drainage work in low-lying areas.

5. Pest and disease control: In mid to late June, the slug moth enters its peak hatching period, and measures should be taken promptly; at present, spraying with 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 500-800 times dilution is basically used. (Or spray with compound BT emulsifiable concentrate.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.

6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees, and right, reinforce and re-tie loose or leaning trees.

July: Temperatures are highest, and after mid-month there will be strong winds and heavy rain.

1. Transplanting evergreen trees: During the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes; once high temperatures occur, water promptly.

2. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain water promptly.

3. Topdressing: Apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry before rain.

4. Street trees: Carry out typhoon-prevention disbudding and pruning; all branches that conflict with power lines must be pruned, and check each tree stump one by one; if any are loose or unstable, right them and tie them tight immediately. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and send people to inspect at any time, handling dangers promptly when found.

5. Pest and disease control: Continue controlling longhorn beetles and slug moths. To control longhorn beetles, inject with 50% fenitrothion at a 1:50 dilution, (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the opening, which can also achieve good results. For camphor tree stem borers, prune them off promptly and destroy the pest nests to prevent further damage.

August: Still the rainy season.

1. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain water promptly from low-lying waterlogged areas.

2. Typhoon prevention for street trees: Continue doing a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.

3. Pruning: In addition to summer pruning of general trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

4. Cultivation and weeding: Weeds also grow vigorously, so weed promptly, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding.

5. Pest and disease control: Focus on capturing longhorn beetles, and pay attention to capturing longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree stem borers should be controlled promptly. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot disease, and take measures promptly. September: Temperatures decline somewhat; do related work well for National Day.

1. Pruning: In preparation for city appearance work, disbud street trees below the third-level branching. Shape-prune hedges. Weed within green spaces, edge the lawn, and promptly clear dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and tidy.

2. Fertilizing: For some trees that grow weakly and whose branches are not sufficiently sturdy, apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

3. Pest and disease control: Shot-hole disease (cherry, peach, plum, etc.) is at its peak incidence; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to shift to damaging the roots; pay attention to capturing longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control wood borers on poplar and willow. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.

4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of greening facilities.

October: Temperatures drop; in late October early winter begins, trees start to shed leaves and gradually enter dormancy.

1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting; in late month, once cold-hardy trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.

2. Green space maintenance: Promptly remove dead trees and water promptly. Do a good job of weeding and edging in green spaces and lawns. Fertilize flowers and grasses that grow poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue capturing longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree stem borers. November: The soil begins to freeze at night and thaw by day, entering deep winter.

1. Tree planting: Continue planting cold-hardy plants, completing before the soil freezes.

2. Turning the soil: Turn the soil in green spaces to expose pests preparing to overwinter.

3. Watering: Water dry, compacted soil, and complete before freezing.

4. Pest and disease control: Various pests prepare to overwinter in late month, so control tasks are relatively light.

December: Low temperatures; begin winter maintenance work.

1. Winter pruning: Prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.

2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: After deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and map out the positions to be adjusted.

VII. Green space maintenance quality objectives

1 Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no exposed yellow soil.

2 Garden plants

2.1 Growth is normal. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replacement seedlings must survive within one year.

2.2 Garden trees have basically complete crowns, with main and side branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, and reasonably pruned; the inner canopy is not chaotic, with ventilation and light penetration. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves, neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green spaces.

2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth and normal leaf size and color; under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect honeydew or insect webs must not exceed 5%, and the retention rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Conifer

Part Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"

Annual Greening Maintenance Plan

January

1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning of various deciduous trees, cutting off dry dead branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and lower side branches, to ensure tree development trends toward reasonableness, improve branch form, and reduce the breeding of pests and diseases.

2. Appropriately thin trees that are too densely growing, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth vigor.

3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and carry out winter fertilizing of all trees, ground cover and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.

4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig out slug moth pupae and cocoons and burn them in a concentrated way.

5. As circumstances require, scarify certain types of lawns and prune 1-2 times. February

1. Carry out weeding, pruning and fertilizing of lawns.

2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on slender-leaf mahonia and cottony cushion scale on coral and Japanese fatsia.

3. In particular, strengthen cold-proof and heat-preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening and banking soil around tree roots.

4. Apply one topdressing (urea) to cool-season lawns at the end of the month, 10g/mu.

March

1. To prevent spring drought, water trees promptly.

2. Promptly mow lawns and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.

3. Pest and disease control: Strengthen observation and patrol, and do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control. In particular, pay special attention to sooty mold and boxwood leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapple species and cool-season lawns, so pay attention to prevention reporting.

4. For local sunken and low-lying spots on lawns, bank soil and cover with sand, and carry out low pruning of winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the germination and growth of the underlying grass.

April

1. Do a good job of loosening soil, weeding and pre-flowering fertilizing for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to herbaceous perennials and spring-sown annual flowers; for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and topdress quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

2. Cut off branches that dried out in winter and spring, and begin pruning evergreen hedges.

3. Pest and disease control: Mainly control aphids, sooty mold and beetles. Keep relevant records.

May

1. This month is the peak period for trees leafing out, with a very high water requirement, so water promptly.

2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and hall crabapple, and promptly carry out disbudding work on London plane, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle and other trees.

3. Hoe weeds in flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out weeding of lawns and prune lawn grass promptly to control its height.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control.

June

1. Water plants promptly to ensure sufficient water supply.

2. Loosen soil and hoe weeds in tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out weeding of lawns.

3. Prune lawns promptly and control their growth height, and pay attention to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply compound fertilizer once to lawns that grow poorly or lack fertilizer, so they can safely pass the summer.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control.

July

1. In high-temperature weather, especially ensure watering work for plants is carried out.

2. Carry out soil loosening and weeding for flower bed color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity, and weeds grow fast; seize the opportunity to weed and remove grass to prevent grass from running wild, and continue cultivation, weeding and loosening the soil.

3. Earnestly do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention, reinforce and strengthen trees in the garden to prevent lodging; promptly dredge and drain low-lying or seriously waterlogged places.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control.

August

1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so weed and prune promptly, control lawn height, and fertilizing can be combined with weeding. Supplement and topdress fertilizer promptly, mainly P and K fertilizers, together with N fertilizer; for small seedlings, shrubs and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently, and at the same time pay attention to mastering the fertilization period and climate.

3. In high-temperature weather, be sure to ensure daily watering and drought relief work, and do not choose 10-15 o'clock to do it, so as to avoid burning seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)

4. Continue doing a good job of typhoon and flood prevention, further reinforce and strengthen large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge drainage ditches in low-lying and easily waterlogged places to prevent water from accumulating for too long.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control.

September

1. Carry out shaping pruning of hedges. Weed in green spaces and promptly clear dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and tidy.

2. Thin trees that are too densely growing, and at the same time carry out disbudding work.

3. Prune lawns promptly, edge them, and clear weeds, and pay attention to pest and disease control work.

4. Carry out hoeing weeds in flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover, and collect flower seeds.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting, early warning and control.

October

1. Prune spherical shrubs to ensure a beautiful appearance, neatness and clear layering. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development trend toward reasonableness and their tree posture and appearance are improved.

2. Strengthen management of newly planted flowers and grasses, promptly fill gaps and water, and fertilize those that grow poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and early warning, actively control, and keep relevant records. November

1. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light penetration, to reduce pests and diseases and enhance growth vigor.

2. Do a good job of weeding and edging in flower beds, color-block shrubs and green spaces, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant gaps. As circumstances require, adjust trees in the local layout, and some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species can be transplanted. Begin cold-proof and warmth-preservation work, and for trees with

poor cold resistance, wrap with straw and bank soil.

3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. As circumstances require, scarify and aerate lawns, and at the same time prune 2-3 times.

4. Carry out fertilizing work in late month, and combine with increasing organic fertilizer to carry out soil turning in green spaces.

5. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and early warning, actively control, and keep relevant records. December

1. Do a good job of weeding and edging in color-block shrubs and green spaces and promptly pull out weeds.

2. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly removing stubs and dead branches, in order to make next year's tree growth better (flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds must not be pruned), and at the same time pay attention to clearing insect cocoons on trunks and branches.

3. Wrap sago palm, date palm and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they safely overwinter.

4. Pest and disease control: Do a good job of forecasting and early warning, actively control, and keep relevant records.

Part Four: "Latest Commonly Used Southern Landscape Plants"

Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern Landscapes

Evergreen trees:

Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, big-leaf mahogany, false sterculia, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, rambutan, fire-resistant manglietia, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Buddhist pine, long-leaf Buddhist pine, white champaca, southern magnolia, houpo magnolia, burmann cinnamon, camphor tree, cinnamon, kuzi, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, siamese senna, red-flowered camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree, Hong Kong orchid tree, almond, mango, Ormosia henryi, water banyan, water stone banyan, avocado, blackboard tree, false betel nut, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, sapodilla, lemon eucalyptus, river red gum, large-leaf eucalyptus, blue gum, cajuput, butterfly fruit, Chinese torreya, Chinese plum yew, Indian rubber fig, banyan, small-leaf fig, large-fruit fig, weeping fig, yellow fruit fig, sacred fig, horsetail tree, jackfruit, camphor-leaf maple, sweet oak, oriental oak, candlenut, silver birch, pointed-leaf elaeocarpus, large-leaf elaeocarpus, sea hibiscus, iron wintergreen, privet, osmanthus, loquat, albizia, royal palm, Dong palm, Washingtonia palm, sugar palm, long-leaf date palm, autumn maple, red sandalwood, large-flowered dillenia, jackfruit, yellow locust, tree jackfruit, large-leaf privet, Lechang Michelia, schefflera, shield aralia

Deciduous trees:

Small-leaf terminalia, Chinese swamp cypress, water winter melon, Chinese tallow, hovenia, sand pear, soapberry, entire-leaf goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, camptotheca, large-leaf crape myrtle, beautiful kapok, flame tree, peacock flower, South American jacaranda, yellow locust, chinaberry, chinaberry, coral tree, cockscomb coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, sweet acacia, prickly castor oil tree, sweetgum, weeping willow, two-bloom magnolia, purple-leaf plum, flowering peach, plum, papaya, Indian

red sandalwood, red-leaf plum

Evergreen shrubs:

Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, orange jasmine, large-leaf boxwood, dense-flowered elaeagnus, sasanqua camellia, South China coral tree, gold-dust dracaena, hypericum, three-stamen areca, areca palm, Qiong palm, four-season orange jasmine, soft-branch golden trumpet, small-leaf coral flower, red bottlebrush, Fukien tea, gardenia, crown of thorns, poinsettia, Yunnan jasmine, aucuba, Chinese holly, foreign azalea, glossy dracaena, croton, red mulberry, golden-edged mulberry, golden-leaf fig, smooth senna, horse silver flower, ardisia, orange jasmine, red-back excoecaria, eagle-claw flower, camellia, oil tea, large-leaf tea, oleander, yellow oleander, small-flowered golden trumpet, June snow, banana shrub, pittosporum, mahonia, nandina, Japanese fatsia, night-fragrant flower, hibiscus, lantern flower, azalea, yucca, yucca, South China boxwood, spiny palm, soft-leaf date palm, short-spike fishtail palm, dwarf palm, fishscale bamboo,

golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, golden-vein justice, schefflera, variegated duranta, yellow-leaf duranta, coral flower, golden-leaf privet, taro, bird's nest fern, monstera, aspidistra, snake plant, thick-leaf rhaphiolepis, variegated hibiscus, purple brocade wood, small-leaf boxwood, African jasmine, Arabian jasmine, Hima, crinum lily, spider lily, Ixora, red-flowered loropetalum, large-flowered datura, white paper fan, red paper fan, red azalea, Western azalea, double-pod senna, hard-stem trumpet vine, rose myrtle, ixora, Yunnan yellow jasmine, jasmine, fiddle-leaf coral, blue snowflake, blue star flower, butterfly vine, nandina, pepper tree, red-back excoecaria,

Deciduous shrubs:

Cotton rose, bridal wreath spirea, diamond-leaf spirea, modern rose, abelia, pomegranate, beautyberry, purple magnolia, lespedeza, honeysuckle, Chinese snowball, rose of Sharon, redbud, dwarf flowering cherry, laugh-smile flower, pearl flower, butterfly tree, elderberry, fig, Sichuan pepper, trifoliate orange, butterfly bush, small wax

Vines:

Monstera, bougainvillea, millettia, firecracker vine, rangoon creeper, three-leaf akebia, honeysuckle, climbing euonymus, climbing fig, kiwi, creeping euonymus, Hong Kong rhaphidophora, henry rhodoleia, hoya, dragon-tail plant, pothos, star jasmine, Chinese ivy, English ivy, southern magnolia vine, Boston ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper, passionflower, multi-flowered crape myrtle, evergreen mucuna, large-flowered thunbergia

Eagle-claw flower, large-flowered thunbergia, rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, firecracker vine, white-flowered mucuna, beautiful clerodendrum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, maple-leaf morning glory, snake vine, jasmine, large-flowered dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, joint-vine, passionflower

Bamboos:

Bambusa textilis, pink single bamboo, moso bamboo, fernleaf bamboo, pale bamboo, golden-striped bamboo, sinocalamus affinis, hedge bamboo, bitter bamboo, indocalamus, Buddha belly bamboo, burma bamboo, Bambusa textilis, Thai bamboo, punt-pole bamboo, square bamboo, green bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, small qinsi bamboo, red bamboo

Lawns and ground cover plants:

Bermuda grass, Chinese zoysia, fine-leaf zoysia, carpet grass, centipede grass, two-spike paspalum, Manila grass, zoysia, Guangdong evergreen, purple dew grass, mussel flower, lilyturf, large-leaf curculigo, dwarf lilyturf, lucky grass, aspidistra black-eye flower, stone calamus, autumn zephyr lily, Chinese leek orchid, sudden-laugh flower, white butterfly, butterfly flower, red-flowered oxalis, inch plant,

Calathea zebrina, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Albolineatum', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei, Tradescantia spathacea, Spathiphyllum kochii, Ophiopogon jaburan 'Argenteus', Lantana camara (red), Lantana camara (yellow), Lantana

camara (purple), Senecio cineraria, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Russelia equisetiformis, Asparagus sprengeri, Oenothera drummondii, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus papyrus, Iris tectorum, Lythrum salicaria, Narcissus tazetta, Nelumbo nucifera, Nymphaea tetragona, Wedelia trilobata, Oxalis rubra, Arachis pintoi, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera dentata, Alternanthera paronychioides, Coleus scutellarioides, Verbena tenera, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes carinata, Hippeastrum rutilum, Lilium brownii, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Zoysia matrella, Zoysia tenuifolia, Cynodon dactylon, Axonopus compressus, Axonopus affinis, Paspalum notatum, Liriope muscari

Palm category:

Roystonea regia, Washingtonia filifera, Dypsis decaryi, Roystonea regia 'King', Wodyetia bifurcata, Butia capitata, Hyophorbe lagenicaulis, Hyophorbe verschaffeltii, Phoenix dactylifera, Phoenix canariensis, Bismarckia nobilis, Elaeis guineensis, Caryota obtusa, Trachycarpus fortunei, Phoenix loureiroi, Livistona chinensis, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Caryota mitis, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Washingtonia filifera, Phoenix canariensis, Phoenix roebelenii, Caryota mitis, Caryota maxima, Dypsis lutescens, Areca triandra, Ravenala madagascariensis, Rhapis excelsa,

Seasonal flowers

Pentas lanceolata, Impatiens walleriana, Begonia cucullata, Salvia splendens, Petunia hybrida, Dianthus chinensis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Tropaeolum majus, Viola tricolor, Torenia fournieri, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Portulaca grandiflora, Portulaca grandiflora, Cosmos bipinnatus, Pericallis hybrida, Cleome spinosa, Hemerocallis fulva, Lavandula angustifolia, Lythrum salicaria

Chapter Five: "Southern Plant Configuration Examples"

Southern Plant Configuration

Philodendron bipinnatifidum + Cyperus alternifolius + Alpinia zerumbet var. variegata

Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' + Dracaena fragrans 'Victoria' + Nandina domestica + Nephrolepis cordifolia + decorative rocks

Roystonea regia + Caryota obtusa + Phoenix roebelenii + Canna indica + Coleus scutellarioides + Codiaeum variegatum

Roystonea regia + Phoenix canariensis + Cordyline fruticosa + Acalypha wilkesiana + Ixora chinensis

Roystonea regia + Archontophoenix alexandrae + Dypsis lutescens + Rhapis excelsa + Duranta erecta 'Golden Dewdrop'

Chapter Six: "Common Garden Plants of Southern China"

Common garden plants of southern China

I. Palm category:

1. Roystonea regia 2. Archontophoenix alexandrae 3. Washingtonia filifera 4. Phoenix sylvestris 5. Phoenix canariensis 6. Areca triandra

7. Livistona chinensis 8. Washingtonia filifera 9. Dypsis lutescens 10. Rhapis excelsa (slender-leaved Rhapis) 11. Syagrus romanzoffiana 12. Phoenix roebelenii

II. Tree category (street trees, shade trees):

1. Delonix regia 2. Bombax ceiba 3. Ceiba speciosa 4. Erythrina variegata 5. Elaeocarpus apiculatus 6. Alstonia scholaris

7. Ficus microcarpa 8. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 9. Mangifera indica 10. Chukrasia tabularis 11. Cinnamomum burmannii 12. Tabebuia chrysantha

13. Pterocarpus indicus 14. Plumeria rubra 15. Terminalia catappa 16. Ravenala madagascariensis 17. Pandanus tectorius 18. Bischofia javanica

19. Averrhoa carambola 20. Olea europaea subsp. cuspidata 21. Cassia fistula 22. Albizia falcataria 23. Melaleuca leucadendra

24. Eucalyptus 25. Syzygium hainanense 26. Aphanamixis grandifolia 27. Bauhinia purpurea 28. Swietenia mahagoni

29. Ficus altissima 30. Spathodea campanulata 31. Tabebuia chrysantha 32. Koelreuteria bipinnata

III. Flowering shrub category:

1. Osmanthus fragrans 2. Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf' 3. Alsophila spinulosa 4. Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves' 5. Bougainvillea spectabilis

6. Cassia surattensis 7. Callistemon rigidus 8. Agave americana 'Marginata' 9. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 10. Fagraea ceilanica 11. Ficus variegata

12. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 13. Michelia figo 14. Campsis grandiflora 15. Calliandra haematocephala 16. Tabernaemontana divaricata 17. Ixora chinensis

18. Furcraea gigantea 19. Yucca smalliana 20. Pyrostegia venusta 21. Thevetia peruviana 22. Polyscias fruticosa

IV. Ground cover or color-block plants:

1. Pittosporum tobira 2. Monstera deliciosa 3. Epipremnum aureum 4. Asplenium nidus 5. Alternanthera dentata 'Ruby' 6. Cyperus alternifolius 7. Schefflera octophylla

8. Philodendron 'Xanadu' 9. Duranta erecta 'Golden Dewdrop' 10. Cuphea hyssopifolia 11. Liriope muscari 12. Calathea ornata 13. Rhododendron pulchrum

14. Livistona chinensis 15. Philodendron bipinnatifidum 16. Duranta erecta 'Variegata' 17. Chlorophytum comosum 18. Tradescantia zebrina 19. Allamanda cathartica

20. Alpinia zerumbet var. variegata 21. Asparagus sprengeri 22. Arachis pintoi 23. Ixora chinensis 'Dwarf' 24. Nephrolepis cordifolia 25. Justicia brandegeeana

26. Syngonium podophyllum 'Albolineatum' 27. Pilea cadierei 28. Dieffenbachia seguine 29. Cordyline fruticosa 'Rainbow' 30. Codiaeum variegatum 31. Ophiopogon japonicus

32. Ophiopogon jaburan 'Argenteus' 33. Jasminum sambac 34. Calathea zebrina 35. Zoysia matrella 36. Axonopus compressus

37. Zoysia matrella 38. Cynodon dactylon 39. Lolium perenne 40. Festuca arundinacea

There are also some commonly used plants:

1. Ficus religiosa 2. Ficus altissima 3. Elaeocarpus hainanensis 4. Tabebuia chrysantha 5. Koelreuteria bipinnata 6. Cassia fistula

7. Senna siamea 8. Kigelia africana 9. Cassia fistula (yellow-flowered) 10. Melaleuca bracteata

11. Senna alata 12. Cassia bicapsularis 13. Jatropha integerrima 14. Syzygium nervosum 15. Manglietia glauca

16. Barringtonia racemosa 17. Pachira aquatica 'Variegata' 18. Ormosia pinnata 19. Swietenia mahagoni

20. Albizia falcataria 21. Cinnamomum cassia 22. Osmanthus fragrans (autumn) 23. Laurus nobilis 24. Washingtonia filifera 25. Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf'

26. Pterocarpus indicus (yellow/purple) 27. Pterocarpus indicus 28. Dianella ensifolia 29. Ficus microcarpa 'Leizhou' 30. Dolichandrone cauda-felina

Common garden plants of southern China

1. Evergreen trees

Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria cunninghamii, Keteleeria fortunei, Araucaria bidwillii, Agathis dammara, Pinus massoniana, Pinus elliottii, Cinnamomum camphora, Cinnamomum japonicum, Eucalyptus grandis x urophylla, Melaleuca leucadendra, Syzygium jambos, Syzygium hainanense, Bischofia javanica, Acacia confusa, Acacia mangium, Acacia auriculiformis, Pterocarpus indicus, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus virens, Ficus altissima, Ficus superba, Ficus elastica, Ficus elastica 'Variegata', Ficus religiosa, Aleurites moluccanus, Swietenia mahagoni, Dillenia indica, Alstonia scholaris, Terminalia catappa, Terminalia mantaly, Artocarpus heterophyllus, Syzygium samarangense, Dracontomelon duperreanum, Manilkara zapota, Chukrasia tabularis, Casuarina equisetifolia, Michelia alba, Magnolia coco, Michelia macclurei, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Magnolia grandiflora, Hibiscus tiliaceus, Mangifera indica, Dimocarpus longan, Litchi chinensis, Canarium album, Eriobotrya japonica, Myrica rubra, Citrus maxima, Elaeocarpus hainanensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Nageia nagi, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus fragrans var. semperflorens, Michelia figo, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, Ficus benjamina, Discoglypremna caloneura, Ficus tinctoria

2. Deciduous trees

Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum, Glyptostrobus pensilis, Liriodendron chinense, Firmiana simplex, Bischofia polycarpa, Albizia falcataria, Albizia lebbeck, Leucaena leucocephala, Liquidambar formosana, Salix babylonica, Kigelia africana, Neolamarckia cadamba, Grevillea robusta, Celtis sinensis, Sapindus mukorossi, Pistacia chinensis, Melia azedarach, Sapium sebiferum, Vernicia montana, Ginkgo biloba, Sterculia monosperma, Diospyros kaki, Ficus carica, Morus alba, Carica papaya, Psidium guajava, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acacia farnesiana

3. Palm category

Archontophoenix alexandrae, Roystonea regia, Roystonea regia 'King', Hyophorbe lagenicaulis, Hyophorbe verschaffeltii, Dypsis decaryi, Wodyetia bifurcata, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Elaeis guineensis, Borassus flabellifer, Washingtonia robusta, Washingtonia filifera, Phoenix canariensis, Phoenix dactylifera, Phoenix irakensis, Livistona chinensis, Caryota obtusa, Arenga pinnata, Phoenix loureiroi, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca triandra, Cyrtostachys renda, Areca catechu, Caryota maxima, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Trachycarpus fortunei, Musa basjoo, Ravenala madagascariensis, Cordyline fruticosa, Rhapis excelsa, Rhapis excelsa (slender-leaved), Strelitzia nicolai, Philodendron erubescens, Alocasia macrorrhizos

4. Foliage shrubs

Ficus benjamina 'Golden Leaves', Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves', Ficus lyrata, Ficus salicifolia, Garcinia subelliptica, Arundo donax 'Variegata', Polyalthia longifolia 'Pendula', Pandanus tectorius, Pittosporum tobira, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Variegata', Cycas revoluta, Callistemon rigidus, Cestrum nocturnum, Cotinus coggygria, Justicia brandegeeana, Fatsia japonica, Sabina procumbens, Manihot esculenta 'Variegata', Nandina domestica, Schefflera octophylla, Schefflera arboricola 'Variegata', Zanthoxylum beecheyanum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Acalypha wilkesiana, Syringa japonica, Duranta erecta, Duranta erecta 'Variegata', Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves', Murraya paniculata, Codiaeum variegatum, Codiaeum variegatum 'Hastatum', Codiaeum variegatum 'Hainan', Codiaeum variegatum 'Aucubaefolium', Buddleja asiatica, Carmona retusa, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ligustrum sinense 'Golden Leaves', Euphorbia milii, Furcraea gigantea 'Striata', Agave americana, Agave americana 'Marginata', Yucca smalliana, Beaucarnea recurvata, Aspidistra elatior, Sansevieria trifasciata, Cactus, Alocasia macrorrhizos, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Alpinia zerumbet var. variegata, Scaevola taccada, Rhaphiolepis umbellata, Breynia disticha, Phyllanthus myrtifolius, Rosa chinensis

5. Flowering shrubs

Tabernaemontana divaricata, Brunfelsia acuminata, Murraya paniculata, Hibiscus syriacus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Ceropegia woodii, Malvaviscus arboreus, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Calliandra haematocephala, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Gardenia jasminoides var. grandiflora, Hydrangea macrophylla, Pachystachys lutea, Melastoma candidum, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Datura suaveolens, Mussaenda frondosa, Mussaenda erythrophylla, Allamanda cathartica, Rhododendron hybridum, Cassia bicapsularis, Tecomaria capensis, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, Ixora chinensis, Pyrus calleryana, Jasminum mesnyi, Jasminum sambac, Crinum asiaticum,

Hymenocallis littoralis, Schlumbergera truncata, Canna indica 'Dwarf', Reinwardtia indica, Jatropha pandurifolia, Plumbago auriculata, Oxypetalum caeruleum, Hamelia patens

6. Ground cover

Calathea zebrina, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Albolineatum', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei, Tradescantia spathacea, Spathiphyllum kochii, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon jaburan 'Argenteus', Lantana camara (red), Lantana camara (yellow), Lantana camara (purple), Senecio cineraria, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Russelia equisetiformis, Asparagus sprengeri, Oenothera drummondii, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus papyrus, Iris tectorum, Lythrum salicaria, Narcissus tazetta, Nelumbo nucifera, Nymphaea tetragona, Wedelia trilobata, Oxalis rubra, Arachis pintoi, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera dentata, Alternanthera paronychioides, Coleus scutellarioides, Verbena tenera, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes carinata, Hippeastrum rutilum, Lilium brownii, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Zoysia matrella, Zoysia tenuifolia, Cynodon dactylon, Axonopus compressus, Axonopus affinis, Paspalum notatum, Liriope muscari

7. Vines

Thunbergia grandiflora, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Pyrostegia venusta, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, Wisteria sinensis, Ficus pumila, Quamoclit pennata, Ipomoea nil, Ipomoea cairica, Celastrus orbiculatus, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, Mansoa alliacea, Merremia tuberosa, Clytostoma callistegioides, Passiflora caerulea

Chapter Seven: "Common Southern Plant Configuration Document"

Practical Plant Configuration Table ---- Concise Table of Common Plant Configurations

Aquatic plants:

Wetland plants: Salix matsudana, Salix babylonica, Salix gilgiana, Salix psammophila, Salix viminalis, Salix wallichiana, Populus simonii, Populus maximowiczii, Sabina vulgaris, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Melia azedarach, Pterocarya stenoptera, Fraxinus chinensis, Forsythia suspensa, Ulmus pumila, Ulmus laciniata, Ulmus parvifolia, Sapium sebiferum, Prunus serrulata, Eucommia ulmoides, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Vitis vinifera, Wisteria sinensis, Amorpha fruticosa, Tamarix chinensis, Ranunculus japonicus, Halerpestes ruthenica, Halerpestes longiloba, Lysimachia paludicola, Lysimachia nummularia, Stachys palustris, Stachys chinensis, Mentha haplocalyx, Lindernia crustacea, Veronica didyma, Nasturtium officinale, Scirpus triqueter, Scirpus mucronatus, Scirpus planiculmis, Cyperus serotinus, Cyperus glomeratus, Cyperus difformis, Cyperus sanguinolentus, Juncus articulatus, Juncus bufonius, Juncus effusus, Juncus gracillimus, Polygonum aviculare, Polygonum plebeium, Polygonum orientale, Polygonum caespitosum, Polygonum lapathifolium, Polygonum hydropiper, Polygonum sagittatum, Polygonum perfoliatum, Polygonum senticosum, Polygonum thunbergii, Polygonum macrophyllum, Reynoutria japonica, Imperata cylindrica, Calamagrostis epigejos, Calamagrostis langsdorffii, Beckmannia syzigachne, Polypogon monspeliensis, Arundinella anomala, Miscanthus sacchariflorus, Coix lacryma-jobi, Hemarthria altissima, Butomus umbellatus

Emergent plants: Scirpus validus, Phragmites australis, Nelumbo nucifera (rhizome), Sagittaria sagittifolia, Cyperus fuscus, Alisma plantago-aquatica, Nelumbo nucifera, Lythrum salicaria, Typha orientalis, Monochoria vaginalis, Monochoria korsakowii, Acorus calamus, Pontederia cordata, Oryza sativa, Kandelia candel, Narcissus tazetta, Oenanthe javanica, Zizania latifolia, Colocasia esculenta, Marsilea quadrifolia, Phragmites australis, Eleocharis dulcis, Scirpus yagara, Eleocharis valleculosa, Typha angustifolia, Cyperus alternifolius, Typha latifolia

Floating plants: Lemna minor, Eichhornia crassipes, Nymphaea tetragona, Euryale ferox, Victoria amazonica, Nuphar pumilum, Eichhornia crassipes, Nymphoides peltata, Brasenia schreberi, Utricularia aurea, Ceratopteris thalictroides, Nymphoides hydrophylla

Submerged plants: Ceratophyllum demersum, Ottelia alismoides

Colorful foliage plants:

Red or purple: Liquidambar formosana, Toxicodendron vernicifluum, Acer palmatum, Acer ginnala, Celastrus orbiculatus, Quercus rubra, Acer truncatum, Sapium sebiferum, Rhus typhina, Rhus chinensis, Sorbus pohuashanensis, Nandina domestica, Euonymus alatus, Crataegus pinnatifida, Pistacia chinensis, Pterocarya stenoptera, Berberis thunbergii, Carpinus hupeana, Parthenocissus tricuspidata

Golden yellow or yellow-brown: Ginkgo biloba, Diospyros kaki, Koelreuteria paniculata, Liriodendron chinense, Firmiana simplex, Ulmus pumila, Juglans regia, Catalpa bungei, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Lagerstroemia indica, Ulmus parvifolia, Phoebe zhennan, Ziziphus jujuba var. spinosa, Actinidia chinensis, Aesculus chinensis, Sorbus alnifolia, Chimonanthus praecox, Punica granatum, Cassia surattensis, Hamamelis mollis, Sapindus mukorossi, Acacia farnesiana

Aromatic plants:

Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: Mentha haplocalyx, Ocimum basilicum, Melissa officinalis, Matricaria chamomilla, Cymbopogon citratus, Salvia japonica, Taraxacum mongolicum, Calendula officinalis, Thymus vulgaris, Borago officinalis, Pelargonium graveolens, Malva sylvestris and other herbaceous plants; Lavandula angustifolia, Rosmarinus officinalis, Gardenia jasminoides, Rosa rugosa, Aloysia citrodora and other shrubs.

Woody plants arranged for fragrance throughout the four seasons, such as: plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; gardenia and Michelia alba in summer; Osmanthus fragrans in autumn and Chimonanthus praecox in winter.

Pollution-resistant and exhaust-resistant plants: Robinia pseudoacacia, Paulownia fortunei, Pinus bungeana, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum odoratissimum, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc.

Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, Amorpha fruticosa, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas

Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: Taxus cuspidata 'Nana', Podocarpus macrophyllus, Torreya grandis, Ilex crenata, Cinnamomum camphora, Myrica rubra, Ligustrum lucidum, Ternstroemia gymnanthera, Viburnum dilatatum, Aucuba japonica, Mahonia fortunei, Pyracantha fortuneana, Buxus sinica, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc., Buddleja davidii, Pistacia chinensis, and other fragrant-flowered plants (such as Citrus plants of the Rutaceae family)

Perennial (herbaceous perennial) flowers: Kniphofia uvaria, Lupinus polyphyllus, Festuca glauca, Astilbe chinensis, Coreopsis grandiflora, Lysimachia christinae, Origanum vulgare, Hibiscus moscheutos, Mentha haplocalyx (red-flowered), Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Variegatum', Lampranthus spectabilis, Helleborus thibetanus, Lycoris radiata, Hemerocallis fulva, Iris tectorum, Tradescantia virginiana, Hosta plantaginea, Canna indica 'Variegata', Canna indica 'Red Leaf', Aster novi-belgii, Farfugium japonicum, Bletilla striata, Verbena tenera (perennial)

Flowering plants for the four seasons:

Spring: Various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus micromalus, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia 'Red', Michelia figo, Michelia maudiae, etc.), Cercis chinensis, red-leaf

plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.

Summer: Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Michelia figo, Rhododendron simsii (summer), Punica granatum (flower), Gardenia jasminoides, Campsis grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Acacia farnesiana. Autumn: Osmanthus fragrans, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum (flower), Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, etc.

Winter: Lonicera japonica, Nandina domestica, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc.

Classification diagram of common landscaping tree species:

(I) Evergreen coniferous trees

1. Tree category: Cedrus deodara, Pinus koraiensis, Pinus thunbergii, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Pinus massoniana, Sabina chinensis, Cycas revoluta, Araucaria cunninghamii, Cryptomeria japonica, Torreya grandis

2. Shrub category: (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Platycladus orientalis 'Sieboldii', Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina procumbens, Cryptomeria japonica 'Elegans', Pinus parviflora

(II) Deciduous coniferous trees (no shrubs):

Tree category: Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Pseudolarix amabilis, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum

(III) Evergreen broad-leaved trees:

1. Tree category: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Ligustrum lucidum, Trachycarpus fortunei

2. Shrub category: Viburnum odoratissimum, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Ilex cornuta, Citrus reticulata, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Nerium oleander, Jasminum floridum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Nandina domestica, Serissa japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Distylium racemosum, Camellia japonica, Hypericum monogynum, Rhododendron simsii, Yucca smalliana (Agave americana, Agave angustifolia), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Mahonia fortunei

(IV) Deciduous broad-leaved trees:

1. Tree category: Salix babylonica, Salix matsudana, Pterocarya stenoptera, Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa', Sapium sebiferum, Sophora japonica, Firmiana simplex (Chinese parasol

tree), Platanus x acerifolia (London plane), Sophora japonica (Chinese scholar tree), Sophora japonica 'Pendula', Albizia julibrissin, Ginkgo biloba, Melia azedarach, Catalpa ovata

2. Shrub category: Prunus serrulata, Magnolia denudata, Prunus persica, Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Catalpa bungei, Acer palmatum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea paniculata, Forsythia viridissima, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Alchornea davidii, Punica granatum

(V) Bamboo category: Bambusa multiplex, Phyllostachys sulphurea, Phyllostachys edulis, Phyllostachys nigra, Bambusa multiplex 'Variegata', Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex 'Golden Stripe'

(VI) Vines: Wisteria sinensis, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy, Japanese ivy), Hedera helix, Vitis vinifera, Euonymus fortunei

(VII) Flowers: Portulaca grandiflora, Calendula officinalis, Salvia splendens, Canna indica, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Brassica oleracea (ornamental cabbage), Chrysanthemum morifolium, Cymbidium

(VIII) Turf: Zoysia tenuifolia, Zoysia japonica, Liriope muscari, Cynodon dactylon 'Evergreen', Festuca arundinacea, Zoysia matrella, Trifolium repens, Dichondra repens

Detailed table of common plant configurations

Table of commonly used street trees

Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics

Cinnamomum camphora Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.

London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovoid Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Flamboyant tree Delonix regia Raffin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering from May to August

Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Sweet acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor

Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying land, grows lushly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Banyan Ficus retusa Linn.. Moraceae Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various pruning styles

Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and rounded, robust growth, beautiful tree form

Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, deep green leaf surface, robust growth, very beautiful posture

Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Sapindaceae Rounded Evergreen tree with rounded crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow growth, very beautiful posture

Chinaberry (Melia azedarach) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, slightly umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple

Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old

Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Urticaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, umbrella-shaped crown, also beautiful in posture

Formosan alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and beautiful tree form

Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, robust, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Hoop pine Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fertilizer-loving, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, graceful posture

Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for the northwest region

Korean pine (Pinus koraiensis), Pinaceae, tower-shaped evergreen conifer, weakly shade-tolerant, prefers cool and humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green

Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), Cupressaceae, conical evergreen conifer, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and poor soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerant of pruning, good dust-blocking and sound-insulating effect

Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora L.), Magnoliaceae, ovate evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, tree form graceful,

Taiwan acacia (Acacia confusa Merr.), Fabaceae, umbel-shaped evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth vigor

Date palm (Phoenix dactylifera L.), Arecaceae, pinnate evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, robust growth, graceful posture

Canary Island date palm (Phoenix dactylifera), Arecaceae, pinnate evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk thick and sturdy, tall and majestic, pinnate leaves dense and spreading,

Royal palm (Oreodoxa regia H.B.K.), Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, single trunk upright, up to 18 m tall, slightly swollen at the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, high ornamental value

Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Ginkgoaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, intolerant of waterlogging, resistant to various toxic gases

Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), Magnoliaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, rapid growth, long lifespan, leaf shape like a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese white poplar (Populus tomentosa), Salicaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers cool climates, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, fairly long lifespan; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark grayish-white

Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra var. italica), Salicaceae, narrow cylindrical deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of salinity and waterlogging, fast-growing

Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Ulmaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long lifespan, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention ability

Box elder (Acer negundo), Aceraceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow{Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.

Table of Common Landscape Tree Characteristics

Name Scientific name Family Tree form Characteristics

Camphor tree (Cinnamomun camphcra), Lauraceae, spherical evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, trinerved, doubly fragrant, berries spherical.

London plane (Platanus x acerifolia), Platanaceae, ovate, prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown and dense shade, suitable as street tree and shade tree.

Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora L.), Magnoliaceae, ovate evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, tree form graceful,

Yulan magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Magnoliaceae, umbel-shaped, quite cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for courtyard viewing.

Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), Magnoliaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, fairly strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, rapid growth, long lifespan, leaf shape like a mandarin jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese arborvitae (Thuja orientalis Linn), Cupressaceae, conical evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long lifespan, beautiful tree posture

Island ash (Faxinus insularis Hemsl.), Oleaceae, round evergreen tree, strong tree vigor, rapid growth, graceful tree posture and leaf shape Java bishopwood (Bischoffia javanica Blanco), Euphorbiaceae, round evergreen tree, when young leaves sprout, very beautiful, robust growth, beautiful tree posture

Weeping willow (Salix babylonica Linn.), Salicaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying wet ground, luxuriant and rapid growth, beautiful tree posture

Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz), Cupressaceae, umbel-shaped evergreen tree, bark grayish-brown, showing irregular longitudinal fissures; branchlets alternate, green when young, flattened.

Royal palm (Roystonea regia), Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, single trunk upright, up to 18 m tall, slightly swollen at the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, high ornamental value

Japanese euonymus (Euonymus japonica), Celastraceae, ovate, prefers warm and humid climates, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.

Formosan sweetgum (Liquidamdar formosana Hance.), Hamamelidaceae, conical deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow growth, beautiful tree posture

Chinese wingnut (Pterocarya stenoptera), Juglandaceae, umbel-shaped, strong adaptability, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Creeping juniper (Sabina procumbens), Cupressaceae, evergreen creeping dwarf shrub, branches and trunk sprawling along the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow growth, unique tree form style, branches and leaves emerald green and flowing. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc.{Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.

Golden dewdrop (Duranta repens), Verbenaceae, round evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Golden-leaf duranta is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, can serve as ground cover, pruned into shapes, used to form patterns or emphasize color combinations, dazzling and eye-catching. Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), Aquifoliaceae, round, resistant to toxic gases, slow growth. Green leaves and red fruits, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera Vent.), Moraceae, umbel-shaped evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, posture also beautiful

Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Ulmaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm and humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long lifespan, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention ability

Chinese juniper (Juniperus Chinensis Linn), Cupressaceae, conical evergreen medium tree, branches densely grown, dark green, robust growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree posture

Japanese pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Pittosporaceae, round, white flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as hedge or potted plant. Date palm (Phoenix dactylifera Linn), Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, trunk tillering, up to 20-25 m tall, leaves grayish-white with arching curve, robust growth, beautiful tree posture

Hankow willow (Salix matsudana), Salicaceae, umbel-shaped, suitable as shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), Mimosaceae, umbel-shaped, flowers pink, June to July, suitable as shade ornamental tree, street tree

Japanese black pine (Pinus Thumbergii Porl.), Pinaceae, conical evergreen tree, bark grayish-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and in clusters of two, long lifespan

Purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera. F.arropurpurea), Rosaceae, umbel-shaped deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, reddish-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purplish-red, blooms pale pink small flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both specimen planting and group planting, as a contrasting background.

California washingtonia (Washingtonia filifera Wend.), Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, single trunk cylindrical, base swollen, up to 4-8 m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped round, robust growth, beautiful tree posture{Maintenance measures for southern plants: date palm}.

Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), Fabaceae, umbel-shaped, branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as shade tree, street tree

Glaucous cassia (Cassia glauca Lam.), Fabaceae, round deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, flowers yellow, rapid growth, beautiful tree posture

Box elder (Acer negundo), Aceraceae, umbel-shaped deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow

Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), Aceraceae, umbel-shaped, leaf shape elegant, autumn leaves red. Suitable for courtyard viewing and potted plants.

Golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd.), Pinaceae, ovate tower-shaped evergreen tree, branches and leaves spreading, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, leaflets radiating, tree posture vigorous and upright.

Bottle palm (Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart.), Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, trunk about 3 m tall, base elliptically swollen, forming a wine bottle, posture very beautiful

Mandarin orange tree (Citrus reticulata), Rutaceae, round, flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.

Chinaberry tree (Melia azedarch Linn.), Meliaceae, round deciduous tree, bark grayish-brown, bipinnate odd, pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, rapid growth

Snowbush (Serissa serissoides), Rubiaceae, round evergreen small shrub. Leaf color dark green, flower color snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, fine texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, pruned shapes.

Dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort), Cupressaceae, upright tower-shaped evergreen medium tree, branches densely grown, dark green, robust growth, very long lifespan, very beautiful tree posture

Dragon-claw pagoda tree (S. j. cv. Pendula), Fabaceae, umbel-shaped, branches drooping, suitable for courtyard viewing, paired planting or row planting

Corkscrew willow (S. m. cv. Tortuosa), Salicaceae, round, branches twisted like a dragon roaming, suitable as shade tree, ornamental tree

Pygmy date palm (Phehix Roebelenii Brien.), Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, trunk upright, 2 m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves

Buddhist pine (Podocaarpus macrophyllus D. Don), Podocarpaceae, long conical evergreen tree, posture simple and elegant, can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, layered forms for courtyard landscaping and beautification.

Masson pine (Pinus massoniana Lamb.), Pinaceae, umbel-shaped evergreen tree, trunk bark reddish-brown, winter buds brown, large trees majestic in posture

Nandina (Nandina domestica), Berberidaceae, umbel-shaped, branches and leaves elegant, red fruits in autumn and winter; courtyard viewing, can be group planted or potted. Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria ecelsa Br.), Araucariaceae, conical evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree posture, robust growth

Glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum), Oleaceae, ovate, flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as hedge or street tree.

Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis R. Br.), Arecaceae, umbel-shaped, trunk upright up to 6-12 m tall, leaves round, petiole margins spiny, luxuriant growth, elegant posture

Globe juniper (Junlperus chinensis cv. Globosa.), Cupressaceae, broad round shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.

Green maple (Acer serrulatum), Aceraceae, umbel-shaped conical deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Tree posture light and graceful, can be grown into noble-shaped bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree, forest-bathing tree.

Boxleaf euonymus (B. bodinieri), Buxaceae, ovate, branches and leaves fine and dense, suitable for courtyard viewing. Can be group planted, used as hedge or potted. Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica D. Don), Taxodiaceae, conical, ovate, round evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful

Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Arecaceae Plants"

The Arecaceae is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems solitary or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, well-developed root system, tolerant of drought and poor soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, outstanding for creating tropical-style landscape effects. This section will introduce their introduction, transplanting and disease control.

Brief Introduction to the Introduction Process

There are 183 genera and about 2400 species of Arecaceae plants worldwide, widely distributed in the humid tropical and subtropical regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants; a few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, for example the silver date palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and quite a few palm species that can tolerate long-term waterlogging, such as the swamp palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, and have strong wind resistance, such as the Alexander palm and Chinese fan palm.

Since the 1940s, in the construction of numerous tropical and subtropical cities worldwide, the landscape effect of palm plants has been recognized, and they have been used as key species for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore, etc.

Some landscape companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants in the early 1980s. Over the following more than twenty years, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian and Yunnan, as well as later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing and Yunnan and other areas, successively set off a boom in introducing, producing and applying palms.

Several units led by the Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, based on plant geography and ecology theory, through observational research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatized Arecaceae plants, found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally have cold-tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high-latitude, high-altitude areas of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, moisture and soil, etc. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing the growth and development of plants; winter low temperature is the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization; through research on palm salt tolerance and shade tolerance, researchers screened out a batch of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkali tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of pests and diseases such as palm Phytophthora blight, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented palm seed germination-promoting technology, mastered the full-crown transplanting of palm plants and the cultivation technology of large-specification container seedlings, and did effective work on soil improvement, winter cold protection and conservation, and other technologies.

At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including royal palm, Chinese fan palm, bamboo palm, southern coconut palm, fishtail palm, etc.; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the Arecaceae plants successfully applied mainly include Butia palm, hairy washingtonia, Canary Island date palm, Washington palm and more than ten other species, and the related research technology has been appraised by experts as reaching the world's advanced level.

Taking Washington palm as an example

On the Occurrence and Control of Phytophthora Blight

Damage and General Symptoms of Palm Phytophthora Blight

This disease often occurs and causes damage on royal palm, large Chinese fan palm, Washington palm, Mexican fan palm, Canary Island date palm and other palm plants; the heart leaves of affected plants cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the whole plant withers in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora blight is caused by Phytophthora, and can be identified by culturing in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in the soil or on diseased plant residues. The pathogen spreads through watering, rain splashing, air movement, etc.

Occurrence Pattern of Washington Palm Phytophthora Blight

This disease occurs during periods of high temperature and high humidity between summer and autumn. Drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as overwatering, soil moisture content

suddenly increasing, poor ventilation, or plants located in wind-gap positions, are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, continuous-cropping plots. In addition, this disease is often related to severe root injury caused during seedling digging and then long-distance transport.

When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young tender heart leaf rots, the leaves turn grayish-green and droop, and they can be pulled out with slight force. Dissecting the stem, one can see paste-like secretions in the growing point and even the entire heart of the plant, with a foul odor, and the infected tissue can grow white mold-like matter. In severely affected plants, damage to the roots is also often seen, with the main symptoms being blackening and rotting of the roots, with an abnormal

odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; adult trees planted in green spaces are less affected.

Symptoms

In recent years, damage has been relatively severe in nursery sites. In the early stage of the disease, yellowish-brown water-soaked lesions first appear near the ground, the lesions rapidly expand, are slightly sunken, and when moist the surface is densely covered with white cottony mold, and the diseased part rots and smells foul. When the disease occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellowish-brown, and white mold grows under moist conditions. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and in the later stage the upper part shows withering. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes the root system and stem when cut open exude pus-like liquid, and in severe cases the edges of the veins of young leaves carry large amounts of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora blight is a vascular disease; in severe cases the whole plant wilts and droops, dries up, until death, with a high fatality rate.

According to surveys, the peak period of this disease is mostly the high-temperature and high-humidity period, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, Xiamen August to November, Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and the western mountainous area of the Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all places the disease could be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically, sometimes appearing in patches.

Control Methods

I. Preventive Cultivation Measures

1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness and drainage in the nursery; leaves can be moderately pruned each autumn and winter, and pits can be dug in the planting site and soil mounded, etc., to keep the nursery site dry. Normally, potassium fertilizer can be applied additionally, and quicklime, superphosphate, etc. can also be applied separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of the plants.

2. Choose a good plot; select loam or sandy loam plots with high terrain and good drainage for planting.

3. Implement crop rotation; plots that have grown Washington palm require a rotation of three to four years or more.

4. Strengthen field management, apply more organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth, deep roots and luxuriant leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering during the rainy season, drain water promptly after rain, so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly in case of drought, and strictly prohibit flooding irrigation when watering, and carry it out on sunny afternoons or evenings.

5. Achieve prevention first, integrated control. Pay attention to observation normally, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deep or burn them, and disinfect the diseased holes with lime.

II. Chemical Control

One to two months before the disease occurs in summer and during the disease period, use 64% Sandofan wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminum (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as Kameitong, that is, hydroxyisoxazole (usual dosage 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control method: when transplanting Washington palm, first spray the planting site and Washington palm roots with 600 to 700 times hydroxyisoxazole solution, or first dig pits and sun-expose them for sterilization on consecutive sunny days, or sprinkle lime powder for disinfection, or use dexon 500 times solution for soil disinfection.

After a typhoon, promptly spray Sandofan (better) or fosetyl-aluminum (prone to resistance), adding 0.4% laundry detergent, and pour into the heart or spray for both prevention and treatment. 80% mancozeb 700 times solution can also be sprayed, once every 7 to 10 days, spraying two or three times in succession, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora blight. After adopting this measure, the Washington palm and hairy washingtonia at the Shanghai base of the Guangdong Palm Landscape Company have dropped from a disease incidence of 20% in 2004 to below 10%.

Control Experience

The control effect of using carbendazim and the like is not obvious. In the early stage of the disease, if all leaves are cut off and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can gradually revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is poor.

It is understood that in high-temperature dry areas such as Los Angeles this disease rarely occurs, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater and rainwater, etc. When the plant's root system, trunk, leaves, etc. are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies in large numbers when water is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant wilts and dies from water loss. The heart rot disease described in some literature is actually also Phytophthora blight, only occurring at the heart leaf position.

This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, with water-soaked small spots appearing at onset, then expanding into larger lesions, easily discovered, and generally controllable with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, with common pathogens being Phyllosticta, Pestalotiopsis, etc., often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting Techniques for Single-Trunk Large Seedlings

Preparation Before Transplanting

1. Root-prune the seedlings to be transplanted in advance; after root pruning the soil ball size is twice the ground diameter, and the root pruning depth is 50 cm to 60 cm. Stones and broken roots should be removed from the root-pruning soil and it should be backfilled promptly, with good moisture retention: the purpose is to exercise the adaptability of the seedling and induce new roots. After root pruning it is best to keep them for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If heeled-in seedlings are used, the effect is even better.

2. Dig holes and prepare the soil. Dig holes 20 days before transplanting at the planting site; the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. Let the soil from the holes be exposed to the sun for a period, and the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + appropriate amount of matured phosphate fertilizer + appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.

Planting Time

In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done throughout the year, with spring and autumn being the best, and summer and winter should be avoided as much as possible, especially January and July. Most Arecaceae plants prefer warmth and moisture; in summer the temperature is high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, easily causing excessive water loss and affecting survival; in winter the temperature is low, some places even have frost, and strong north winds easily cause frostbite or even freezing death of seedlings.

Moving the Seedlings

Some single-trunk Arecaceae large seedlings have relatively thick stems, the workload of moving seedlings is large, and the seedlings are very easily injured; therefore, when moving seedlings, the trunk should be wrapped with burlap bags or rice straw, especially the green wrapped-trunk portion at the boundary between trunk and petiole. First, to protect the trunk, second, to retain moisture and protect from the sun. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with pruning leaves, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on tree vigor). At the same time, cut off the leaf together with the petiole by 1/5, to minimize water evaporation.

Planting

Seedlings are best dug and planted on the same day; if the time is too long the seedlings evaporate a lot of water and are easily affected in survival due to water loss. If they cannot all be planted the same day, they should be covered with shade netting and a small amount of water sprayed on the leaf surface each day, with good shading and moisture retention.

1. Backfilling soil Once the seedling is positioned, backfill soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, shape the soil mound into a "water storage basin" slightly higher around the edges and slightly lower in the middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.

2. Watering After backfilling, immediately water thoroughly to settle the roots; before watering, first use bamboo poles etc. to poke and firm the loose soil around the soil ball, until the loose soil no longer sinks.

3. Fixing There are many kinds of supports; using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. The tying height is at 2/3 of the trunk.

Post-Planting Management

1. Moisture retention Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, spraying until the leaves and trunk wrapping are moist. Do not water at the roots, because excess water will flow down and accumulate, causing root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with rice straw to protect from the sun, prevent soil compaction caused by excessive soil temperature differences, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist and aerated, which is conducive to the sprouting of new roots.

2. Wind protection Because transplanted single-trunk palm large seedlings are generally relatively tall, and after transplanting are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds, the supports should be checked regularly after planting for loosening; especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, it should be promptly straightened and re-tied.

3. Topdressing About one month after planting, urea water can be used for foliar topdressing, by spraying, with topdressing about once every half month. After the first new leaf grows out and matures, use fully decomposed peanut cake for hole fertilization. Dig the hole position outside the edge of the soil ball in a ring-shaped trench, with the trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer must be mixed evenly with the backfill soil.

4. Pest and disease control Newly transplanted single-trunk Arecaceae large seedlings, because their tree vigor is relatively weak, are very susceptible to pests and diseases, especially the tender leaves and heart leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" is causing quite serious harm to Arecaceae plants; adults and larvae concentrate in the overlapping gaps of the not-yet-expanded heart leaves and chew the leaf flesh, causing part or all of the newly emerged leaves to die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. The control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsion 1000 times solution; ② cypermethrin 500 times solution; ③ use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve very good control effects. Based on actual operation, the author believes the simplest, most convenient and long-lasting method is to hang a "Yejiaqing" packet on the heart leaf combined with tying during planting for control.

For single-trunk Arecaceae large seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether their leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, one generally must wait one growing season, using whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author used the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to above 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and worth promoting and applying.

Transplanting Techniques for Seedlings, Large Trees and Clustered Seedlings

Key Techniques for Transplanting Seedlings

Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during a period after they germinate and take root. At this time the seedlings are relatively small, can be transplanted with seeds, and in addition have few fibrous roots, so the root system is not easily damaged when moving seedlings. Use nutrient bags for seedling cultivation, with the size depending on the time for cultivating the seedlings; generally speaking, 1-year-old seedlings are best with 16 cm x 18 cm containers, and 2-year-old seedlings with 19 cm x 20 cm; nutrient bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutrient soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burnt soil and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, then bagged. First fill half a bag of mixed soil, then place the seedling, then hold the seedling upright, fill it full and compact it, so that the seedling root system is closely attached to the mixed soil, then water thoroughly. Palm plants cannot be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, the seedling should be pulled upward, so that the seedling root system spreads out.

Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Trees

Arecaceae plants are cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years, and most need several times of bed dividing and transplanting, so selecting sparse-planted strong seedlings gives a relatively high survival rate.

Reduce damage to the root mass Palm plant root tissue is tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots; when digging, carry as large a soil ball as possible, and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize damage to the root mass, so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve the transplanting survival rate. During construction, lines should be accurately laid out and holes positioned, to avoid rework and prevent the soil ball from loosening.

Leaf pruning The amount of leaves retained at transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at transplanting, and transplanting and maintenance conditions, etc.

Generally about 40% of the original leaf count should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause the leaves to turn yellow and dry due to large water evaporation; retaining too few leaves makes it difficult for the plant to recover and the cycle long, and the initial landscape effect is also poor.

Protect the plant stem and its pseudostem During the process of digging, carrying, loading and unloading the plant, the stem should be protected from damage, and the pseudostem part should not be squeezed or bent; this is the guarantee of plant health and rapid recovery.

When palm plants are transplanted to a new site, their root tips are damaged, and within one month after transplanting it is difficult for new root tips to sprout, so their water-absorbing capacity is weak. At this time, if the soil has good permeability and aeration, it will help the seedlings survive, so when planting, large holes should be dug and attention should be paid to the quality of imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer to help the palms recover after planting.

Maintenance: Within one month after planting, the plants have poor adaptability and the seedlings should be carefully maintained. Water must be replenished in time and appropriate shading should be provided, striving to have new leaves sprout within three months. If there is continuous rainy weather for several days after transplanting, palm seedlings will recover better, because rainy days can avoid unfavorable factors such as exposure to the scorching sun.

Key techniques for transplanting large clustered seedlings

Clustered species of palms have multiple growth points. After growing into a multi-stemmed clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have disadvantages such as heavy trunks, large leaf area causing high water evaporation, and poor ventilation making them vulnerable to damage from strong winds. Therefore, in addition to the measures used for transplanting single-stem palms, the following technical measures should be added:

1. Implement the "hairy root method" for transplanting. That is, after digging out a relatively large root ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the root ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate root ball, and then immediately wrap it with lightweight moisture-retaining material, so as to reduce the weight of the root ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting slow-recovering clustered palms such as fishbone palm and three-medicine areca.

2. Implement bare-root temporary planting or container planting for concentrated maintenance until new roots sprout and the plants are stable before formal planting. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as areca palm, strange wrinkled-seed palm, and Hawaiian coconut, and can reduce transportation costs and facilitate construction.

In short, for the transplanting of large seedlings and large trees of palms, to put it briefly, five aspects should be done well: select strong seedlings; dig good root balls and transport the plants carefully; prune leaves appropriately; ensure good aeration and drainage at the planting site; and carry out post-planting maintenance with attention to sun protection and moisture retention. The sign for judging the success of transplanting large seedlings and large trees is being able to retain most of the leaves and sprout new leaves within half a year after planting, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves means the transplanting is completely successful.

Drainage: First understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, and as far as possible place the very bottom of the root ball at a position 100-150CM above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site with deep and fertile soil. At the same time, a drainage layer for the root system of the underground root ball and a surface runoff guidance network should be well established to prevent water accumulation in the root ball after planting. If the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting the root ball on raised soil can be used, that is, first pile up the planting site with loose medium mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand as much as possible to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the soil mound, and bury the root ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose medium, so as to achieve loose and breathable conditions for the plant roots; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil around the roots, so as to prevent waterlogging and drain accumulated water. Moisture retention: Immediately after planting, water once with settling water to ensure the root ball roots are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development. Then water thoroughly three more times and promptly cover the root ball well to prevent the surface soil from cracking. In hot summer, also spray more water on the ground and tree canopy to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf moisture retention treatments include a. newly planted seedlings should have their leaves appropriately pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray anti-transpirants on the leaves to inhibit the plant's physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss; c. in clear weather, spray water in mist form on the leaves as much as possible to strengthen the leaves' absorption of water and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the root ball and roots at any time and replenish water in time to ensure the root ball remains moist and the roots can breathe freely. Fertilization: After planting, in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant, foliar fertilizer can be appropriately sprayed at low concentration to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant. If new roots are found growing, root fertilization can be considered. Generally choose the season when the monthly average temperature is above 2O°C, apply organic fertilizer mainly as much as possible, and appropriately add compound fertilizer with high P and K content, so as to promote balanced nutrition for the plant and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: Spray pesticides to prevent and control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery. After arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed before unloading, and ensure that within one month after planting, pesticide is applied three consecutive times at intervals of one week to ten days. Afterward, a reasonable pest and disease control plan should also be formulated. Special

Part Nine: "Maintenance Plan"

Shidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Greening

Main

ten

ance

Plan

Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.

October 8, 2010

Project Overview

"Shidalien (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green space area of 28,186 sq m. The plant configuration for greening in the factory area is relatively reasonable, rich in color, and has obvious seasonal changes, forming a plant community with distinct layers and natural ecology, basically displaying the natural landscape of plants. The arrangement of plant flowering shrubs and hedges between the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant varieties such as camphor, southern magnolia, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle are planted in the factory area, among which there is a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification camphor, and a gatehouse scenic spot composed of varieties such as ancient red maple, fruiting pomegranate, Xifu crabapple, ginkgo, and Canary Island date palm.

In view of the existing conditions of the greening landscape in the factory area, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, and the understanding of plant habits was insufficient. In particular, the replacement of planting soil in the green areas was not done thoroughly, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.

Greening Maintenance Plan Schedule

January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)

1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.

2. Frequently check cold-protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold-protection wrapping materials.

3. Turn the soil for winter plowing and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.

4. Prune dead, residual, diseased, and pest-damaged branches and leaves, thoroughly remove overwintering scale insect cysts, stinging moth cocoons, and latent overwintering pests.

February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)

1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.

2. Continue pruning diseased and pest-damaged branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, globular scale, etc.).

3. Continue collecting fertilizer and making compost, prepare culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)

As the weather gradually warms, many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insecticide and disease-prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and globular scale, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)

1. Do a good job in the prevention and control of pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, mole crickets, and diseases such as powdery mildew and rust.

2. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and fertilizing before flowering. Apply light fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Do a good job in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess tender buds and branches in inappropriate growth positions at any time.

4. Clear and repair the drainage system.

May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)

1. Perform post-flowering pruning and hedge pruning on shrubs that bloom in spring. According to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning on trees, and prune and remove suckers at the roots of small seedlings as they appear.

2. Continue to strengthen tree maintenance and management, do a good job in replanting, thinning, and final singling of seedlings, apply additional fertilizer, and frequently apply light fertilizer.

3. This month the temperature gradually rises, and pests and diseases greatly harm trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to pest forecasting and forecasting, and pest and disease prevention work should be done well.

4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue removing weeds from the lawn.

June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)

1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperature and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.

2. Perform post-flowering pruning and fertilization on flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Continue removing weeds and continue mowing.

4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focuses on controlling pests such as bagworms, stinging moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and soft scales, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.

July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)

1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly. Continue cultivating and weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Pests such as bagworms, stinging moths, longhorn beetles, soft scales, armored scales, second-generation cottony cushion scale, and mites occur in large numbers. Attention should be paid to their control, and at the same time continue to control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, etc.

3. During the dog days, temperatures are high, and when there is little rain, irrigation is needed to resist drought. This month is also a month with more heavy rain, so attention should be paid to preventing waterlogging.

4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season. Typhoon prevention and flood prevention work should be done well, with frequent inspections and timely righting of wind-thrown trees.

August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)

1. Continue cultivating and weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Continue doing a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure normal growth of seedlings.

3. This month the seedlings grow vigorously, so fertilizer should be applied in time. For small seedlings, apply light fertilizer frequently.

4. Continue doing a good job in typhoon prevention and flood prevention, and right wind-thrown trees promptly when found.

5. Continue doing a good job in pest and disease control, and seriously control the main pests harming trees (bagworms, second-generation stinging moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).

September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)

1. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease elimination; in particular, frequently check the occurrence of aphids, carpenter moths, etc., and once found, control them immediately.

2. Continue cultivating and weeding, continue removing weeds from the lawn, carry out lawn mowing, and perform shaping and pruning on ball-shaped plants, hedges, etc.

3. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, check the conditions of aphids, bagworms, stinging moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, which occur relatively frequently, and control them in time.

October (Cold Dew, Frost's Descent)

1. Do a good job in pest and disease control, and eliminate various adult insects and eggs.

2. Continue cultivating and weeding.

3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate, clarify the actual situation, and ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring greening work.

November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)

1. Do a good job in cold protection. Whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.

2. Carry out winter pruning of trees, cutting off diseased branches and dead branches; branches with insect eggs, competing branches, and excessive