How to water Canna lilies through the four seasons? The temperature decides the watering method
From the Canna lily growing methods and precautions, we know that watering is a very important step. You can neither water too often nor too little, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the stems grow weak. So how should you water Canna lilies through the four seasons for the best results? Let me give you the answer.
How to water Canna lilies through the four seasons
Canna lilies do not demand much water, but the amount of water they need differs from season to season. Just as a person needs to replenish more water in summer because they sweat more, Canna lilies also need different watering frequencies in summer compared with other seasons. So how should you water Canna lilies through the four seasons? The methods are as follows.
1. How to water in spring
In early spring, the temperature has just begun to rise, and the Canna lily also starts to revive and resume growth. But in early spring it is not advisable to water too much; once every 4 days is fine. When the temperature rises above 15°C, that is, by late spring, water about once every 3 days.
Friendly reminder: In spring, try to avoid spraying water on the leaves when watering, and check the condition of the potting soil in time to see whether the soil has dried and caked. Otherwise the water you pour in cannot seep down to the bottom of the soil, resulting in watering that does not penetrate through.
2. Summer watering method
In summer the Canna lily grows quite vigorously, and transpiration is also more pronounced, so at this time you should water more. But you do not need to water several times a day; once a day is enough. If it rains, you can decide not to water based on how much rain there is.
Note: Although Canna lilies need more water in summer, you must not pour too much water into the pot when watering, to avoid waterlogging and similar problems. Otherwise it will affect the roots' respiration and nutrient uptake.
3. How to water in autumn
Autumn goes from higher temperatures to gradually lower ones. When studying how to water Canna lilies through the four seasons, people found that the autumn watering method is exactly the opposite of spring. In early autumn, water once every 2-3 days; in late autumn, water once every 4 days.
Note: Autumn is a time when pests and diseases appear rather easily. When watering, you can check the leaves, roots and stems for disease spots, and if there are any, deal with them promptly.
4. Winter watering method
In winter, water according to changes in temperature. When the temperature is below 5°C, watering should stop. When the temperature is above 10°C, water about once every 5-6 days, keeping the soil slightly moist is enough; it does not need to be too wet.
Note: Winter temperatures are lower, and watering too much is not good for the Canna lily's ability to keep warm, so generally do not water too often, and also control the amount of water each time.
The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)
1．What are the benefits of growing flowers？
With their gorgeous splendor, flowers adorn nature and make it extraordinarily beautiful, giving people the enjoyment of beauty. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate character and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and raise cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of our country, protect and improve it, purify the air, and enable people to work and study in a beautiful environment, making life better. Growing flowers not only provides ornamental value but also has much important economic value. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine: honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, rhododendron, Chinese rose, lotus and others are all commonly used medicinal materials. Fragrant flowers are widely used in food, light industry and other fields; for example, osmanthus can be used as a food flavoring and for brewing wine, jasmine, white magnolia, bitter orange and chloranthus can be used to scent tea, and chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes. White magnolia, jasmine, rose, wintersweet, narcissus and others can be used to extract essential oils. Growing flowers can also earn foreign exchange and accumulate funds. For example, the high-grade essential oil refined from roses - rose oil - is regarded on the international market as "liquid gold," and its value is even higher than gold.
2．What categories are flowers divided into？
Our country has long been known as the "Mother of Gardens" of the world, with rich flower resources and a great variety of species. To make cultivation, management and use easier, one needs to understand the knowledge of flower classification. Because the bases for classification differ, the classification methods also differ. According to the morphological characteristics of flowers, they are usually divided into two major groups: herbaceous flowers and woody flowers. Those with soft stems are herbaceous flowers, and those with hard, woody stems are woody flowers. According to growth habits and morphological characteristics, they can generally be divided into herbaceous flowers, woody flowers, succulent flowers and aquatic flowers. Herbaceous flowers, according to differences in their growth and development cycles, can further be divided into annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, perennial flowers, bulbous flowers and lawn plants. Woody flowers, according to differences in trunk height and canopy size, can further be divided into trees, shrubs and vines. Succulent flowers have thick, fleshy stems and leaves and store abundant water in their bodies; some have leaves reduced to needles or feather-like forms and unusual shapes, so they form a category of their own in horticultural cultivation. Aquatic flowers grow year-round in water or marshy areas, and most are perennial plants. According to the ornamental part, flowers can be divided into flower-viewing types (mainly for flower color and flower shape, such as chrysanthemum and Chinese rose), foliage-viewing types (mainly for leaf color and leaf shape, such as croton and Caladium), fruit-viewing types (mainly for fruit, such as kumquat), stem-viewing types (mainly for branches and stems, such as pencil cactus and Cereus) and bud-viewing types (mainly for buds, such as silver pussy willow). According to use, flowers can be divided into cut flowers (such as carnation and calla lily), indoor flowers (such as clivia and Monstera), courtyard flowers (such as Chinese rose and chrysanthemum), medicinal flowers (such as peony and honeysuckle), spice flowers (such as white magnolia, jasmine and rose) and edible flowers (lily, daylily and pomegranate). In addition, based on the climatic conditions of the flowers' places of origin and according to natural distribution, flowers can be divided into tropical flowers, subtropical flowers, warm temperate flowers, temperate flowers, subfrigid flowers, alpine flowers and so on. This classification method can reflect the habits of various flowers and the conditions that must be met for their growth and development during cultivation.
3．What are bulbous flowers？
Bulbous flowers are perennial herbaceous flowers whose underground stems or roots have become modified into spherical or similar forms. According to the morphological structure of their underground stems or roots, they can be broadly divided into 5 major categories: (1) Bulb type. The underground stem is scale-like. Those covered outside with a papery skin are called tunicate bulbs, such as tulip, narcissus and amaryllis; those with no outer skin covering the scales are called non-tunicate bulbs, such as lily. (2) Corm type. The underground stem is spherical or flattened-spherical and covered with a leathery outer skin, such as gladiolus and freesia. (3) Rhizome type. The underground stem is thickened and root-like, with obvious nodes on it, and new buds form at the tips of branches, such as Canna lily, ginger lily, lotus, water lily and hosta. (4) Tuber type. The underground stem is irregularly block-like or strip-like, such as calla lily, cyclamen, gloxinia and tuberose. (5) Tuberous root type. The main underground root is thickened into a block form, and the root system grows out from the end of the tuberous root, such as dahlia.
The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)4．What is the relationship between temperature and growing flowers？
Temperature is an important condition for the survival of all kinds of flowers. No matter how suitable other environmental conditions are, if there is no suitable temperature condition, flowers will find it hard to survive. The growth and development of each kind of flower has its own optimum temperature, maximum temperature and minimum temperature. According to the temperature conditions of the flowers' places of origin, flowers can broadly be divided into high-temperature types, medium-temperature types and low-temperature types. (1) High-temperature type. Such as Milan aglaia, poinsettia, cineraria, gloxinia and fuchsia. When grown in North China, the winter room temperature must be kept above 12°C. (2) Medium-temperature type. Such as white magnolia, jasmine, hibiscus and geranium; the winter room temperature must not be lower than 5°C. (3) Low-temperature type. Such as oleander, osmanthus, kumquat, bitter orange and sago palm; the winter room temperature need only be no lower than 0 degrees. If the temperature is too high or too low, the normal physiological activities of flowers will be disrupted, growth will stop, and in severe cases the whole plant will die.
5．What effect does light have on the growth and development of flowers？
Light is the energy source by which flowers and plants manufacture nutrients. Without light, photosynthesis cannot proceed, and the growth and development of flowers will be severely affected. Most plants can only have abundant flowers and lush leaves under sufficient light conditions. Different kinds of flowers have different requirements for light. As the flower saying goes: "Shade for camellia, sun for peony, half shade and half sun for the four-season orchid." According to the different light intensity requirements of flowers, they can broadly be divided into sun-loving flowers, neutral flowers and shade-loving flowers. (1) Sun-loving flowers. Most flower-viewing and fruit-viewing flowers belong to this group, such as magnolia, Chinese rose, pomegranate, plum blossom, crape myrtle and citrus. Among foliage-viewing flowers there are also a few sun-loving ones, such as sago palm, palm and croton. Most aquatic flowers, cacti and succulents also belong to this group. All sun-loving flowers like strong light and cannot tolerate shade. If sunlight is insufficient, branches and leaves tend to grow leggy, tissues become soft and weak, leaf color fades and yellows, flowering is difficult or poor, and they are prone to pests and diseases. (2) Shade-loving flowers. They grow well under shaded environmental conditions, such as asparagus fern, camellia, rhododendron, hosta, pothos, lucky bamboo, ivy, gloxinia, Monstera and begonia. If kept under strong light for a long time, their branches and leaves wither and yellow, growth stalls, and in severe cases they even die. (3) Neutral flowers. They grow well under conditions of abundant sunlight, but in summer when light intensity is high they should be slightly shaded, such as osmanthus, jasmine, white magnolia and hydrangea. In summary, the light requirements of various flowers are not the same, and even for the same kind of flower, the light requirements differ at different stages of growth and development. The light needed by seedlings can be gradually increased, yet the sun-loving chrysanthemum requires short-day conditions to form flower buds.
6．What effect does light have on flower bud differentiation？
The purpose of cultivating flowers is to make them produce more blooms, and light is the most effective external factor in promoting flower bud formation. On the same plant, branches that receive sufficient light have more flower buds; branches that receive insufficient light have fewer flower buds. In summer, when there are many sunny days, flowers receive ample light, and the following year they produce more flowers. Generally speaking, flowers and plants can carry out photosynthesis at temperatures of 10-35°C, and the most suitable temperature is 20-28°C. According to the requirements of flowers for day length, they can be divided into 3 major categories: (1) Long-day flowers. Those that generally need more than 12 hours of daylight per day to form flower buds are called long-day flowers. Many flowers that bloom in spring and summer mostly belong to this group, such as iris, China aster and garden balsam. (2) Short-day flowers. Flowers that can only form flower buds when the daily light period is less than 12 hours are called short-day flowers. Poinsettia and chrysanthemum are typical short-day flowers; under the long days of summer they can only grow and cannot carry out flower bud differentiation. After autumn begins, only when the light period decreases to 10-11 hours do they begin flower bud differentiation. (3) Day-neutral flowers. Flowers whose flower bud formation does not strictly depend on day length are called day-neutral flowers. Such as calla lily, carnation, zinnia, Chinese rose and hibiscus; they show no obvious response to day length, and as long as the temperature is suitable they can bloom all year round.
The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)
7．What effect does water have on the growth and development of flowers？
Water is an essential condition for the growth and reproduction of flowers. It has a great influence on their growth and development. Because if water absorption exceeds consumption, the flower's body has too much water, the plant grows especially thin and weak, cold resistance declines, and stress resistance weakens. If there is too much water for a long time, it causes root rot, leaf drop and even death. If water absorption is less than consumption, then due to lack of water the flower wilts, and severe water shortage causes the flower to wither and die. There are many varieties of flowers and their water requirements also differ; even for the same kind of flower, water requirements differ at different growth stages. According to different water requirements, flowers can broadly be divided into 3 types: xerophytes, hydrophytes and mesophytes. (1) Xerophytic flowers. Such as plum blossom, crape myrtle, Midget crabapple, hollyhock, nandina and succulents, all of which are relatively drought-tolerant. (2) Aquatic flowers. Such as lotus, water lily, calamus and water bamboo. (3) Mesophytic flowers. Flowers that can grow well in moist soil. The vast majority of flowers belong to this type, such as magnolia, white magnolia, wintersweet, peach blossom, camellia and redbud.
8．What effect does air humidity have on flowers？
Most of the water flowers need comes from the soil, but air humidity also greatly affects their growth and development. If air humidity is too high, branches and leaves tend to grow leggy, petals mildew and rot, flowers drop, and pests and diseases spread easily. If humidity is too high during the flowering period, it hinders flowering and affects seed set. If air humidity is too low, the flowering period shortens and flower color fades. When southern flowers are grown in the north, if the air is dry for a long time, they grow poorly and flowering and fruiting are affected. In northern winters the climate is dry; if indoor humidity is not regularly maintained when growing flowers, some moisture-loving flowers often show pale yellow leaves and dry, withered leaf edges. According to the different air humidity requirements of different flowers, methods such as spraying and washing the branches and leaves or covering with plastic film can be used to increase air humidity and create humidity conditions suitable for their growth. Moisture-loving flowers such as orchids, begonias and Monstera require relative air humidity of no less than 80%; medium-moisture flowers such as jasmine, white magnolia and hibiscus require air humidity of no less than 60%.9．Why do flowers die from too much watering？
When potted flowers are watered too much, water fills the soil gaps, the air in the soil is replaced by water, and outside air cannot enter either, thus causing soil oxygen deficiency. The respiration of the roots is hindered, physiological functions decline, and the roots' ability to absorb water and fertilizer is blocked. At the same time, because the soil lacks oxygen, aerobic bacteria that decompose organic matter multiply and become active in large numbers, increasing soil acidity. Because butyric acid bacteria and others become highly active, a series of toxic substances such as hydrogen sulfide and ammonia are produced, directly poisoning the root system. At the same time, due to oxygen deficiency the plant consumes a large amount of soluble sugars in its body and accumulates excessive substances such as alcohol, greatly reducing photosynthesis, and finally the flower dies of starvation. In the practice of growing flowers, one can often see cases where too much watering causes the flower roots to turn black and rot, "drowning" the flower. Therefore, when cultivating flowers, watering must be done in the right amount.The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)
10．What harm is there from insufficient watering of potted flowers?
Because potted flowers have little soil and do not store much water, during the growing season they need frequent water replenishment to ensure normal growth. If the water supply is insufficient, the leaves and leaf stalks shrink and droop, and the flower shows wilting. If a flower is supplied with insufficient water for a long time, the older leaves and the lower leaves of the plant gradually yellow and dry up. If most herbaceous flowers remain in a dry state for a long time, the plants become short and small, the leaves lose their fresh green luster, and the whole plant may even wither and die. Some flower growers, fearing excessive watering, give only "half-way water" each time, that is, the amount of water poured only moistens the surface soil while the lower soil remains dry. This watering method likewise affects the development of the flower's root system and also produces the above adverse phenomena. Therefore, watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and letting it dry between waterings, and when you water, water thoroughly.
11．How to judge whether potted flowers lack water？
Watering is a routine management task in growing flowers, and judging whether the potting soil lacks water is rather hard to master, so many flower lovers often feel troubled by this. The experience of flower-growing experts in judging water shortage is briefly introduced below.(1) Tapping method. Gently tap the upper-middle part of the pot wall with the knuckle of your finger. If it gives a relatively crisp sound, it means the potting soil is already dry and needs watering immediately; if it gives a dull, muffled sound, it means the potting soil is moist and you can hold off watering.
(2) Visual method. Observe with your eyes whether the color of the potting soil surface has changed. If the color becomes lighter or turns grayish-white, it means the potting soil is dry and needs watering; if the color becomes darker or turns brown, it means the potting soil is moist and you can hold off watering.
(3) Finger test method. Gently insert a finger about 2 cm deep into the potting soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry or rough and hard, it means the potting soil is dry and needs watering immediately; if it feels slightly moist, fine and soft, it means the potting soil is moist and you can hold off watering.
(4) Rolling method. Roll a little potting soil between your fingers. If the soil is powdery, it means the potting soil is dry and should be watered immediately; if it forms flakes or granules, it means the potting soil is moist and you can hold off watering. The above test methods are all based on experience; they can only tell people the approximate dry or wet condition of the potting soil. If you need to know the exact degree of dryness or wetness of the potting soil, you can buy a soil moisture meter, insert it into the soil, and see words such as "dry" or "moist" appear on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.
12．Why is it not suitable to water flowers with cold water at noon in midsummer？
At noon in midsummer, the temperature is very high. The temperature on the leaf surface of flowers can often reach around 40°C, transpiration is strong, and water also evaporates quickly, so the roots need to keep absorbing water to make up for the loss from leaf transpiration. If cold water is poured at this time, although water is added to the potting soil, the sudden drop in soil temperature stimulates the root hairs with low temperature, which immediately hinders the normal absorption of water. At this time, because the flower's body is not prepared at all, the leaf stomata are not closed, and water loses its balance between supply and demand, causing the leaf cells to go from a tense state to wilting, producing "physiological drought" in the plant. The leaves scorch and dry up, and in severe cases the whole plant dies. This phenomenon is especially obvious in herbaceous flowers; for example, geranium, cypress vine and China aster most avoid being watered with cold water at noon on hot days. For this reason, watering flowers in summer is best done in the morning and evening.
The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)
13．What kind of water is good for watering flowers？
Water can be divided according to its salt content into hard water and soft water. Hard water contains more salts; using it to water flowers often causes brown spots on the leaf surface and affects the ornamental effect, so soft water is preferable for watering flowers. Among soft water, rainwater (or snow water) is the most ideal, because rainwater is a nearly neutral water, contains no minerals, and also has more air, making it very suitable for watering flowers. If you can collect and store rainwater on rainy days for watering flowers, it helps promote the assimilation of flowers, prolongs the cultivation period, and raises ornamental value. Flowers that especially like acidic soil prefer rainwater even more. Therefore, in the rainy season you should store more rainwater for later use. In various parts of Northeast China, snow water can be used to water flowers with very good results, but note that you must melt the ice and snow and let it stand until the water temperature is close to room temperature before use. If there is no rainwater or snow water, river water or pond water can be used. If tap water is used, it must first be stored in a bucket (or vat) for 1-2 days to let the chlorine in the water volatilize before use, which is safer. Do not use laundry water containing soap or washing powder to water flowers, and do not use dishwashing water containing grease. For cacti and other flowers that prefer slight alkalinity, it is not suitable to use slightly acidic leftover tea water, etc. In addition, when watering flowers, pay attention to the water temperature. Whether watering in summer or winter, if the difference between water temperature and air temperature is too great (more than 5 degrees), it easily harms the flower's root system. Therefore, for water used to water flowers, it is best to first put it in a bucket (or vat) to air and warm for a day, and use it once the water temperature is close to the air temperature.
14．How should the amount of water for potted flowers be controlled？
Whether the amount of water for potted flowers is timely and appropriate is the key to success or failure in growing flowers. Based on experience from various places, the amount of water for potted flowers should be determined by comprehensively judging the flower variety, plant size, growth and development stage, climate, soil conditions, pot size, placement location and other aspects, so as to decide the watering time, frequency and amount. Under normal circumstances, moisture-loving flowers should be watered more, drought-loving flowers should be watered less; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much; herbaceous flowers have a high water content and also high transpiration, so they should be watered more than woody flowers; flowers with large, soft, smooth, hairless leaves should be watered more, while flowers with small leaves that have a waxy layer, fine hairs or a leathery texture should be watered less; water more during the vigorous growth period and less during dormancy; water more when the plant is large and the pot is small, and less when the plant is small and the pot is large; water more in hot weather and less in cold weather; water more in dry weather and less on cloudy days, etc. For ordinary flowers, the water supply through the four seasons is as follows: after spring begins each year, the temperature gradually rises, flowers enter their vigorous growth period, and the amount of water increases gradually. In early spring, watering should be done before noon. In summer the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously, and transpiration is strong, so the amount of water should be sufficient. In summer, watering should be done in the morning and evening. After the Start of Autumn, the temperature gradually drops, flowers grow slowly, and watering should be appropriately reduced. In winter the temperature is low, and many flowers enter dormancy or semi-dormancy, so watering should be controlled; if the potting soil is not too dry, do not water, to avoid root rot and leaf drop caused by too much water. In winter, watering should be done at 1-2 p.m.
15．What is the effect of spraying water？
Spraying water can increase air humidity, lower air temperature, wash dust off the plants and rinse away pests, prevent young leaves from scorching and flowers from withering early, and keep the plants fresh. This is especially true for some shade- and moisture-loving flowers, such as camellia, rhododendron, orchid and Monstera; frequently spraying water on the leaf surface is very beneficial to their growth and development. After summer rain when the sky suddenly clears, or on stuffy evenings, attention should be paid to spraying water to lower the temperature and prevent disease. The amount of water sprayed should be determined according to the needs of the flowers. Generally, if the water evaporates soon after spraying, that amount of spraying is the most suitable. Seedlings and delicate flowers need more spraying, and newly potted plants and cuttings that have not yet rooted also need more spraying. Tropical orchids, Araceae and Bromeliaceae flowers need frequent spraying even more. But some flowers are very sensitive to moisture, for example gloxinia, Calceolaria and begonia; their leaf surfaces have relatively thick fine hairs, and water does not easily evaporate after falling on them, causing the leaves to rot, so water should not be sprayed onto the leaves. For flowers in full bloom, it is also not suitable to spray too much water, otherwise it easily causes petals to mildew and rot or affects fertilization and lowers the seed-setting and fruit-setting rate. In addition, the leaf buds at the top of cyclamen tubers, the flower buds in the leaf cluster of African daisy, and the pseudobulbs in the center of the clivia leaf cluster all fear moisture. These parts are all easily harmed after being sprayed with water.
The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)
16．How to rescue flowers after they wilt？
For potted flowers, because the pot holds relatively little water, forgetting to water, especially missing watering in hot summer, often easily causes leaves to wilt. If not rescued in time, over time it often leads to the plant withering. If the rescue is not done correctly, sometimes it can also cause the plant to die. The correct approach is: when you find the leaves wilting, immediately move the flower pot to a shady, cool place, spray some water on the leaves, and pour a small amount of water. After that, as the stems and leaves gradually recover their uprightness, gradually increase the amount of water. If at this time you pour too much water all at once, it may cause the plant to die. This is because after a flower wilts, large numbers of root hairs have been damaged, so the water-absorbing capacity is greatly reduced; only after new root hairs grow can the original water-absorbing capacity be restored. At the same time, wilting causes the cells to lose water; after contact with water, the cell walls absorb water first and expand rapidly, while the protoplasm absorbs water afterward and expands slowly. If at this time a large amount of water is suddenly poured, it causes plasmolysis, damaging the protoplasm and thus causing the flower to die.
17．What role does soil play in the growth and development of flowers？
Soil is an important substrate for cultivating flowers, the material basis on which flowers depend for survival, and the main source of the water, fertilizer, air and heat needed for the growth and development of flowers. This is because soil is composed of minerals, organic matter, soil water and soil air. Minerals are the most basic substance making up soil, and they can provide the various nutrient elements flowers need. Organic matter not only supplies nutrients for the growth of flowers but also plays an important role in improving the soil's physical and chemical properties, soil aggregate structure, and water retention, water supply, ventilation and temperature stability. Soil water is an indispensable material condition for the growth of flowers. Soil air is the source of oxygen needed for the absorption function of flower roots and the life activities of microorganisms, and is also an important condition for the further weathering of soil minerals and the release of nutrients from the transformation of organic matter. Scientific experiments have proven that in soil suitable for plant growth, by volume, minerals account for about 38%, organic matter about 12%, and soil air and soil water each about 15%-35%. According to some data, the most suitable water content for the growth of ordinary flowers and plants is 25% of the soil volume, with air also accounting for 25%. Because some people do not understand the above principles, when growing potted flowers they do not repot or change the soil for a long time, causing the soil's physical and chemical properties to deteriorate, poor ventilation and water permeability, and a lack of nutrient elements, thus leading to poor flower growth, yellowing leaves, few flowers, or even no flowers. Therefore, to grow potted flowers well, attention must be paid to repotting and changing the soil at the right time.18．What kind of soil is good to choose for potted flowers？
For potted flowers, because their root systems can only within a very small soil range, the soil requirements are stricter than for open-ground flowers. On the one hand, nutrients should be as complete as possible, so that the limited potting soil contains the nutrients needed for the growth and development of the flowers; on the other hand, it should have good physical and chemical properties, that is, the structure should be loose, the water-holding capacity should be strong, the pH should be suitable, and the fertilizer-retention capacity should be good. Precisely because of this, when growing flowers one should try to choose a neutral or slightly acidic soil with good aggregate structure, loose yet fertile, good water retention and drainage, and rich in humus. This kind of soil is light in weight, has large pores, good air circulation and rich nutrients, and is conducive to the development of the flower root system and robust plant growth. If flowers are planted in heavy clay soil with poor ventilation and water permeability, or in pure sandy soil lacking nutrients and with poor water and fertilizer retention, or in alkaline soil, then for the vast majority of flowers it easily causes weak growth and even death. However, the soil conditions mentioned above are not possessed by any natural soil. Therefore, for potting soil, it is necessary to choose artificially prepared culture soil. This culture soil is made by mixing two or more kinds of soil or other substrate materials in a certain proportion according to the different growth habits of flowers and plants, so as to meet the needs of different flowers' growth and development.
The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)
19．How to prepare culture soil？
There are many materials suitable for preparing culture soil. The following are the ones commonly used at present.
(1) Plain river sand soil. Mostly taken from riverbanks. It has good drainage but no fertility, and is mostly used by mixing it into other culture materials to facilitate drainage.
(2) Garden soil. Soil taken from the surface layer of vegetable gardens, orchards and similar places. It contains a certain amount of humus and has relatively good physical properties, and is often used as the basic material for most culture soil.
(3) Leaf mold. Made by piling up fallen leaves, dry grass and the like. It has a high humus content, strong water retention and good permeability, and is one of the main materials for preparing culture soil.
(4) Mountain soil. There are two kinds: black mountain soil and yellow mountain soil. It is formed by the long-term accumulation of fallen leaves from mountain trees. Black mountain soil is acidic and contains more humus; yellow mountain soil is also acidic and contains less humus.
(5) Peat soil. It is formed by the carbonization of peat moss. Because the stages of formation differ, it is divided into brown peat and black peat. Brown peat is rich in organic matter and shows an acidic reaction; black peat contains more minerals and less organic matter, and shows a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.
(6) Rice husk ash. It is the ash formed after burning rice husks. It is slightly alkaline, contains potassium, and has good drainage and air permeability.
(7) Barnyard manure soil. It is made by mixing animal manure, fallen leaves and other materials with garden soil, sewage and the like and piling them to compost, and it has relatively rich fertility. In addition, pond mud, river mud, coniferous soil, turf soil, decomposed wood chips, vermiculite, perlite and so on are all good materials for preparing culture soil. When preparing culture soil, one should flexibly handle it according to the growth habits of the flowers, the properties of the culture soil materials and local conditions. For ordinary potted flowers, the commonly used culture soil ratio is leaf mold (or peat soil): garden soil: river sand: bone meal = 35:30:30:5, or leaf mold (or peat soil), plain river sand soil, decomposed organic fertilizer, superphosphate and the like mixed in a ratio of 5:3.5:1:0.5, then sifted and used. The above culture soil is mostly neutral or slightly acidic and suitable for most flowers. For cultivating acid-loving flowering plants such as camellia and rhododendron, about 0.2% sulfur powder can be mixed in; for cultivating flowers such as cactus, about 10% wall skin soil fallen from lime walls and the like can be added.
20．How to make leaf mold yourself？
Leaf mold is a commonly used material for growing potted flowers. Where conditions permit, you can go into mountain forests and directly dig up leaf mold formed by years of weathering. You can also make leaf mold yourself. The method is: in autumn, collect fallen leaves of broadleaf or coniferous trees, weeds and the like, and pile them into a rectangular pit. When piling, first put down a layer of leaves, then a layer of garden soil, and repeat this for several layers, then pour in a small amount of sewage, and finally cover the top with a layer of garden soil and the like about 10 cm thick. In late spring and midsummer of the following year, open it once each time, turn it over and break up the pile, then pile it back as before. In warm climate areas, by late autumn these piled materials can mostly be decomposed. At this time they can be dug out, further broken up, sifted and used. When piling, two points should be noted: first, do not press it too tightly, so as to allow air to enter and create conditions for the activity of aerobic bacteria, thereby speeding up the decomposition of the pile. Second, do not let the pile become too wet. If it is too wet, ventilation is poor, and under oxygen-deficient conditions anaerobic bacteria multiply and become active in large numbers, causing serious loss of nutrients and affecting the quality of the leaf mold.
21．How to measure and change the pH of culture soil？
The pH of culture soil directly affects the physical and chemical properties of the culture soil and the growth of flowers. Most flowers grow well in culture soil that is neutral to slightly acidic (pH 5.5-7.0). This is because within this range the nutrient elements that flowers absorb from the soil are all in a soluble state. Above or below this range, some nutrient elements become non-absorbable, thus easily causing certain flowers to develop nutrient deficiency symptoms. Precisely because of this, before planting flowers it is necessary to measure the pH of the culture soil. Soil pH is usually expressed by pH value. A pH of 7 is neutral, less than 7 is acidic, and greater than 7 is alkaline. If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it must be improved in order to grow flowers well. The simplest method for measuring the pH of culture soil is to buy a box of litmus test paper from a chemical reagent store; the box contains a standard color comparison chart. For the test, take a small amount of culture soil and put it in a clean glass cup, add cool boiled water at a soil-to-water ratio of 1:2, stir thoroughly and let it settle, then put the litmus test paper into the solution, take it out after about 1 or 2 seconds and compare it with the standard color chart. Find the color chart number whose color is closest to it, and that is the pH value of this culture soil. Based on the measurement results, for culture soil with unsuitable pH, the following measures can be taken to adjust it. If it is too acidic, add a small amount of lime powder and the like to the potting soil; if it is too alkaline, add a small amount of sulfur powder and the like to the potting soil.
The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)22．What are the advantages of soilless cultivation？
As the name implies, soilless cultivation means growing flowers without soil, instead using various culture substrates and nutrient solutions. Because soilless cultivation uses a nutrient solution to directly provide the nutrient elements essential for the growth and development of flowers, it is also called nutrient solution cultivation. It is a new technique in flower cultivation in recent years and has many advantages:
(1) Fast growth and good quality. Because the nutrient solution used in soilless cultivation is carefully prepared according to the needs of the flowers' growth and development, it is conducive to rapid flower growth, so there are many flowers, large blooms, bright colors, long flowering periods, strong fragrance, and green leaves that stay on for a long time. It not only raises ornamental value but also shortens the flower production cycle and gives a high flower yield per unit area.
(2) Clean and hygienic, with few pests and diseases. The purpose of growing flowers is to beautify the indoor and outdoor environment and give people spiritual enjoyment. The fertilizer used in soilless cultivation is a nutrient solution prepared from inorganic elements, and the substrate is disinfected, so it is both clean and hygienic and can greatly reduce pests and diseases. Therefore, many countries now have relevant laws restricting the import of flowers with soil. If our country wants to export flowers in large quantities, it must also adopt the new technique of soilless cultivation.
(3) Saves fertilizer and saves water. Because soilless cultivation uses fixed containers, there is very little loss of fertilizer and water. In soil cultivation, however, about half the nutrients and most of the water are lost.
(4) Low labor intensity, saves labor and time. Soilless cultivation of flowers does not require carrying heavy flower pots. The containers used are mainly plastic, and the substrates used, such as vermiculite and perlite, are all very light, weighing only more than one-tenth as much as soil. In management, one only needs to regularly replenish the pre-mixed nutrient solution and continuously add water, so the operation is simple and the effect is very good.
(5) Not subject to many restrictions, suitable for indoor use. Soilless cultivation is relatively flexible; generally, as long as a site has air, water, light, temperature and other conditions, this method can be used to grow flowers.
23. What substrate is good to choose for soilless cultivation?
The role of the soilless cultivation substrate is to replace soil in fixing the flower plant in the container and to retain the nutrient solution and water for the growth and development of the flowers. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a material that has good water retention, good drainage, contains no harmful substances, is clean and hygienic, and has a certain strength. At present, the soilless cultivation substrates commonly used for growing flowers at home and abroad mainly include sand, gravel, vermiculite, perlite, glass fiber, foam plastic, rock wool and so on.
(1) Vermiculite. It is a mica-type mineral, light in texture and porous, with good air permeability, water absorption and a certain water-holding capacity, and it contains elements such as magnesium and potassium that flowers can absorb and use.
(2) Perlite. It is a siliceous mineral, stable in nature, hard, light in texture, clean and sterile, with good drainage and aeration, but slightly poorer water and fertilizer retention, so it is best used mixed with vermiculite at 1:1.
(3) Foam plastic. It is very light in texture and can hold a large amount of water per unit volume. Generally it cannot be used alone and is often mixed with sand and the like.
(4) Glass fiber. It is clean and hygienic, highly water-absorbent, can store a large amount of air, does not rot with long-term use, and can support the plant's roots so they do not fall over. When soilless cultivation substrates are used for a long time, especially in continuous cropping, they easily breed pathogens and harm flower seedlings, so after each cultivation attention must be paid to disinfection treatment. A 1% concentration bleaching powder solution can be poured onto the substrate and left to soak for about 30 minutes, then rinsed clean with clear water to eliminate chlorine; its sterilization effect is good. The disinfected substrate can be used again.
24．How to prepare nutrient solution？
The various elements and amounts used in preparing nutrient solution must be decided according to the flower varieties being cultivated, their different growth stages, different regions and so on. At present there are many formulas for nutrient solution used at home and abroad. Here only the formula of Hoagland nutrient solution suitable for general potted flowers is introduced as follows: to each liter of water add the macroelements: potassium nitrate 0.7 g, calcium nitrate 0.7 g, superphosphate 0.8 g, magnesium sulfate 0.28 g, ferric sulfate 0.12 g; trace elements: boric acid 0.6 mg, manganese sulfate 0.6 mg, zinc sulfate 0.6 mg, copper sulfate 0.6 mg, ammonium molybdate 0.6 mg. The pH of this formula is 5.5-6.5. When preparing, it is best to first use a small amount of warm water at about 50°C to dissolve the inorganic salts listed in the above formula separately, then pour them one by one in the order listed in the formula into water amounting to 75% of the set volume, stirring while pouring, and finally add water to the full amount (1 liter), thus obtaining the prepared nutrient solution. When preparing the above solution, you can also appropriately increase or decrease the types and amounts of elements according to the different requirements of different flowers. When preparing or storing nutrient solution, never use metal containers; instead use ceramic, enamel, plastic or glass containers to avoid chemical reactions. When growing flowers at home and the amount of nutrient solution used is not large, to reduce the trouble of preparing nutrient solution, you can buy long-acting flower fertilizer from a flower and tree shop, such as plastic compound series flower fertilizer, vermiculite compound flower fertilizer, granular compound flower fertilizer and so on. In the northern regions of our country, you can also use a simple formula nutrient solution made by adding to 1 liter of water ammonium phosphate 0.22 g, potassium nitrate 1.05 g, ammonium sulfate 0.16 g, ammonium nitrate 0.16 g, and ferrous sulfate 0.01 g.The Practical Complete Guide to Growing Flowers at Home (Part One)
25．How can households carry out soilless cultivation？
For household soilless cultivation, ordinary pots such as plastic pots and unglazed clay pots can be used for cultivation. When planting, first mix the various substrates in a certain proportion or put them separately into a plastic pot, then plant seedlings that have grown 3-5 leaves in the center of the pot. Before planting, first put the root system with soil into clear water, gently wash off the root soil, then put the roots into a solution 5-10 times more dilute than the normal concentration of nutrient solution and soak for about 10 minutes to let them fully absorb nutrients. After planting, cover the top with a layer of quartz sand or small stones to fix the plant, and immediately pour 0.5-strength nutrient solution in from around the container until nutrient solution flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. After that, water once every 1-3 days, and apply dilute nutrient solution once every 7-10 days. After the plant returns to normal growth, apply nutrient solution at normal concentration. The frequency and amount of nutrient solution application should be determined according to the flower type, plant size, different growth stages, season, placement location and so on. Generally, for indoor potted flowers during the growth period, large seedlings are given nutrient solution about once every 7-15 days, and small seedlings about once every 15-20 days; during the dormancy period of flowers, watering about once a month is enough. As for the amount of nutrient solution each time, generally for sun-loving flowers in a pot with an inner diameter of about 20 cm, apply about 100 ml each time, and the amount for shade-loving flowers should be reduced accordingly. If long-acting flower fertilizer is used, its amount should refer to the product instructions. For beginners, when applying nutrient solution, pay attention to the appropriate amount; better less than too much. If too much is applied, it easily causes scorched leaves and other harm. In soilless flower growing, besides paying attention to mastering the time and amount of nutrient solution application, you must also water in time according to the water requirements of different kinds of flowers, so as to keep the substrate constantly moist, so that the flowers can grow robustly. In order to avoid loss of nutrient solution, it is best to choose a watertight container. A container more suitable for household use consists of two parts: the upper part is a flower pot filled with substrate (with a perforated bottom), into which the flower seedling is planted, and the lower part is a watertight container holding the nutrient solution. When using this kind of container for planting, before the plant roots extend into the nutrient solution, it is necessary to water appropriately, applying a small amount of dilute nutrient solution about once every 5-7 days; after the roots extend into the nutrient solution, normal management begins. According to the growth habits of the flowers, regularly add nutrient solution and water; generally completely replace the nutrient solution once a month, and wash clean the container holding the nutrient solution. Ordinarily, the amount of nutrient solution in the container should be about 2/3 of the container's depth. If too much is put in and no space is left, the root system is completely soaked in the nutrient solution, air is insufficient, and root rot is often easily caused by oxygen deficiency. For flowers grown by soilless cultivation, the usual maintenance and management work is basically the same as with soil cultivation; it is also necessary, according to the habits of the flower species, to provide environmental conditions such as light, temperature and humidity suitable for their growth and development.
26．What are the commonly used fertilizers？
Commonly used fertilizers fall into the following two categories:
(1) Organic fertilizers. Usually divided into animal-based organic fertilizers and plant-based organic fertilizers. Animal-based organic fertilizers include human excreta, the feathers, hooves and horns and bone meal of poultry and livestock, and waste from fish, meat and eggs. Plant-based organic fertilizers include soybean cake and other cake fertilizers, sesame paste residue, weeds, tree leaves, green manure, Chinese herbal medicine residue, distillers' grains and so on. Both types of fertilizer are slow-release fertilizers, with relatively complete nutrients and long-lasting fertilizer effect. Before use they must be fermented and decomposed before they can be applied.
(2) Inorganic fertilizers. These are fertilizers rich in mineral nutrients, made by chemical synthesis or processed from natural ores. For example, nitrogen fertilizers include urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate, etc. Phosphate fertilizers include superphosphate, phosphate rock powder, etc. Potassium fertilizers include potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, etc. Chemical fertilizers have a quick effect, but their nutrients are simple; their action is intense, but not lasting. Except for phosphate fertilizers, chemical fertilizers are generally used as top dressing.
27. How to make fertilizer yourself？
In daily life, many kinds of waste can be used to make fertilizer yourself.
(1) Soaking liquid fertilizer. Use a small jar (or small earthen pot) and put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells and moldy foods (peanuts, sunflower seeds, beans, bean powder*), etc., add water and sprinkle in a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. It can be used after high-temperature fermentation and decomposition. When using, take the clear liquid on top, add water to dilute it, and then apply. Alternatively, mix the above waste with some old potting soil, add some water, put it into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly, leave it for a period of time, and use it after fermentation.
(2) Waste composting. Choose a suitable spot and dig a pit 60 cm to 80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste and crushed bones into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter. After warming in spring and decomposing without foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as a base fertilizer; it can also be sifted while moist through a 4 mm sieve and rubbed into granules, with the fine part used as top dressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer.
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)
28．How to avoid and reduce the bad smell produced when composting fertilizer and applying fertilizer？
When composting accumulated fertilizer, an unpleasant odor is often released, polluting the environment. It is very unhygienic and unpleasant. Some tips for avoiding or reducing the odor when composting fertilizer are briefly introduced below.
(1) Put a few pieces of orange peel (dried or fresh) into the fertilizer composting container to reduce the odor. This is because orange peel contains a large amount of essential oil, which continuously releases fragrance during the fermentation process of the fertilizer, thereby reducing the bad smell. When the effect of the orange peel decreases, add a few more new pieces of orange peel. Fermented orange peel is also a good fertilizer and can increase fertilizer effectiveness.
(2) Use a pickle jar for composting fertilizer. Put household food waste, such as rotten eggs, animal viscera, spoiled milk, soybean milk, etc., into the pickle jar, add an appropriate amount of clean water, be sure to fill the water groove around the mouth of the jar, then add some insecticidal medicine, and put on the lid to prevent the odor from escaping. In summer, it can decompose in about 2 to 3 months. When using, take the clear liquid on top, add water at 10 to 20 times the amount, and add a little trichlorfon and other pesticides to the fertilizer water to prevent maggots. Some materials report that adding an appropriate amount of 500 to 600 times diluted rice vinegar solution before applying the fertilizer water can help alleviate the odor of liquid fertilizer.
29.How to brew alum fertilizer water？
Flower growers in Yanling, Henan, use "alum fertilizer water" to irrigate flowers that prefer acidic soil, with good results. The commonly used preparation method: 20 kg to 25 kg of water, 1 kg to 1.5 kg of cake fertilizer or hoof pieces, and 250 g to 300 g of ferrous sulfate (black alum). Put the above materials together into a jar, place it in the sun to expose and ferment for about 1 month, then take the clear liquid on top, dilute it with water, and it is ready to use. Soil watered with this kind of water shows a slightly acidic reaction, with a pH value of about 5.8 to 6.7.
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part One)
30.How can reasonable fertilization be achieved？So-called reasonable fertilization means paying attention to timely and appropriate amounts. So-called timely means applying when the flowers need it. For example, when flower leaves become lighter in color and the plants grow thin and weak, fertilization is timely. As for when to apply what kind of fertilizer, it depends on the different growth and development stages of the flowers. For example, at the seedling stage, more nitrogen fertilizer can be applied to promote rapid and robust growth of the seedlings; at the bud stage, more phosphate fertilizer can be applied to promote larger flowers and plump seeds; at the early fruit-setting stage, fertilization should be appropriately controlled to favor fruit setting. No matter what stage it is, fertilization should be done in appropriate amounts. If too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, it easily causes excessive vegetative growth; if too much potassium fertilizer is applied, it hinders growth and affects flowering and fruiting.
When fertilizing, pay attention to the following points:
(1) Fertilization should pay attention to the type of flower. Different types of flowers have different fertilizer requirements. For example, osmanthus and camellia like pig manure and avoid human feces and urine; southern flowers such as rhododendron, camellia, and gardenia avoid alkaline fertilizers; flowers that need heavy pruning every year require an increased proportion of phosphate and potassium fertilizers to promote the sprouting of new branches; foliage-oriented flowers can focus more on nitrogen fertilizer; flowers grown for large blooms (such as chrysanthemums and dahlias) need an appropriate amount of complete fertilizer during the flowering period so that all flowers can open, with beautiful shapes and vivid colors; fruit-oriented flowers should have fertilizer and water appropriately controlled during the flowering period, and sufficient complete fertilizer applied during the fruit-swelling stage to achieve the expected effect; bulbous flowers should be given more potassium fertilizer to help the bulbs become plump; fragrant flowers should be given more phosphate and potassium fertilizers once they enter the flowering period to promote a strong floral fragrance.
(2) Fertilization should pay attention to the season. In winter, the temperature is low, plant growth is slow, and most flowers are in a state of growth stagnation, so fertilizer is generally not applied; spring and autumn are peak growth periods for flowers, when roots, stems, and leaves grow, flower buds differentiate, and young fruits expand, all requiring more fertilizer, so more top dressing should be applied appropriately; in summer, the temperature is high, water evaporates quickly, and it is also a peak growth period for flowers, so the concentration of top dressing should be lower and the frequency can be higher.
(3) When applying organic fertilizer, it must be fully decomposed; raw fertilizer must not be used. In addition, various places have much valuable advice on how to fertilize potted flowers. For example, materials from Jiangsu and other places point out that fertilization should depend on growth vigor and determine the amount, adhering to the "four more, four less, four no": apply more when yellow and thin, apply more before sprouting, apply more at the bud stage, apply more after flowering; apply less when robust, apply less at sprouting, apply less when flowering, apply less in the rainy season; do not apply when growth is excessive, do not apply when newly planted, do not apply in the height of summer, do not apply during dormancy. It also points out that there are three taboos in fertilizing potted flowers: first, avoid concentrated fertilizer; second, avoid hot fertilizer (in summer at noon when soil temperature is high, fertilizing easily injures roots); third, avoid sitting fertilizer. When planting flowers, if base fertilizer is applied at the bottom of the pot, do not place the roots directly on the fertilizer. Instead, add a layer of soil over the fertilizer, and then plant the flower into the pot.
Recommended reading:The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Two)
The Complete Practical Guide to Home Flower Growing (Part Three)
Bird of Paradise Flower Strelitzia reginae Bird of Paradise Flower Guide: How to grow Bird of Paradise Flower / How to propagate Bird of Paradise Flower
Bird of Paradise Flower ProfileBird of Paradise Flower Strelitzia reginae
How to grow Bird of Paradise Flower and points to note: an introduction to Bird of Paradise Flower
Bird of Paradise Flower is native to southern Africa. It likes a warm and humid climate and fears frost and snow. It is a light-loving plant and needs sufficient sunlight in winter, with slight shading under strong light in summer. The soil should be loose, fertile, and well drained. The winter overwintering temperature is 5°C. It is commonly propagated by sowing and division. Seedlings bloom after 4 to 5 years of cultivation. The leaves are large and graceful, and the flower shape is peculiar. Potted Bird of Paradise Flower is suitable for arranging meeting rooms and halls, giving a fresh and elegant feeling. Planted in the ground in southern courtyards, it greatly adds natural scenic charm.
The scientific name of Bird of Paradise Flower is Strelitzia reginae. They were given this scientific name in honor of Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III of the United Kingdom. It is an ornamental plant in the genus Strelitzia of the family Strelitziaceae. The genus Strelitzia has a total of 5 species, native to southern Africa, and it is the city flower of Los Angeles, United States. The leaves of this genus are blue-green, upright, leathery, oblong, and concave; the midrib is red, reaching 1 to 1.5 m (3 to 5 ft), emerging from the underground stem. Most flowers of the genus Strelitzia have long stalks, are orange-yellow or light blue, have 2 upright and pointed petals, and 5 stamens; outside there is a boat-shaped spathe, green, with red edges. The genus Strelitzia has a yellow-flowered variety. Bird of Paradise Flower can grow to 2 m tall, with large and strong leaves 25 to 70 cm long and 10 to 30 cm wide, and petioles up to 1 m long. The leaves are evergreen and arranged in two rows in a fan shape. The flowers grow at the ends of long stems. The spadix is hard and like a bird's beak; because it is perpendicular to the stem, it resembles a bird's head. It is strong enough to support sunbirds of the family Nectariniidae that feed on nectar on the flowers. The flower has three brightly orange sepals and three purple-blue petals. Two of the petals are fused, forming an arrow-like nectar tube. When a sunbird sits on it to feed on nectar, the petals open and cover the bird's feet with pollen.
Morphological characteristics of Bird of Paradise Flower
Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, about 1.5 m tall. Underground it has thick fleshy roots, the stem is not obvious, and the leaves are large like those of canna. From the very short aboveground stem disk, they emerge in an overlapping opposite arrangement, with long petioles, leathery, and entire margins. The flower stem is terminal or grows in leaf axils, higher than the leaves. The spathe-like involucre is purple, with a dark red tinge on the edges. Six to 8 flowers extend beyond the bracts and open in sequence. The perianth is sky blue, and the outer sepals are orange-yellow. The flower shape is peculiar, like a red-crowned crane stretching its neck and gazing into the distance. It blooms in autumn and winter, and the flowering period lasts more than 100 days.
Underground it has thick fleshy roots and also rhizomes. The aboveground stem is not obvious. The leaves appear basal, with long petioles; the leaves are elliptical, opposite, arranged on both sides, dark in color, relatively hard in texture, with straight parallel veins. Flowers emerge from the leaf cluster. The flower stalk is long and thick. The inflorescence is a lateral spike, with a purple involucre outside and 6 to 10 small flowers inside; the outer petals are orange-yellow.
Ecological habits of Bird of Paradise Flower
Native to South Africa, it requires warm winters, cool and humid summers, and climatic conditions with a relatively large day-night temperature difference. It is not cold-tolerant and fears frost. The suitable growth temperature is 13°C to 24°C, but it has a relatively wide tolerance range for temperature and can tolerate 0°C to 40°C; in winter it must not go below 5°C. It likes light. During the growth period, except for slight shading in summer, it should be given sufficient light. Continuous cloudy days affect leaf growth and the posture and color of the flowers. The underground fleshy roots can store water, so it has a relatively strong drought resistance and avoids waterlogging. It is not very strict about soil requirements, and soil that is well drained and rich in humus is best. Bird of Paradise Flower is an insect-pollinated plant. In its place of origin, it relies on hummingbirds weighing only 2 g for pollination. In areas without hummingbirds, artificial pollination is needed before it can set seed. In its place of origin, it blooms from early spring to summer; in China, cultivated plants mostly bloom in autumn and winter.
It likes a warm and humid climate, requires sufficient sunlight, is not cold-tolerant, and fears frost and snow. In winter it requires no lower than 5°C, and growth is at 18 to 24°C. In summer it needs to grow under a shade frame, and it likes to grow in organic-rich clay soil. In the south it can be cultivated in the open field; in the Yangtze River basin it is cultivated in large sheds or solar greenhouses. Suitable growth temperatures: 18 to 24°C from March to October, and 13 to 18°C from October to March of the following year. Daytime 20 to 22°C and nighttime 10 to 13°C are even more favorable for growth. In winter the temperature should not be lower than 5°C. Bird of Paradise Flower is a light-loving plant. Under strong summer light, it should be shaded or placed under a shade frame to grow. In winter it needs sufficient sunlight. If growth is too dense or sunlight is insufficient, it directly affects leaf growth and flower color. Each single leaf takes 40 to 45 days from sprouting to full maturity. From the appearance of flower buds to the formation of flower buds, it takes 30 to 35 days. A single flower blooms for 13 to 15 days, and the entire inflorescence can remain ornamental for 21 to 25 days. There is a bird growing in New Guinea and the Australia region called the "bird of paradise." Because this flower resembles the feathers of the bird of paradise, Bird of Paradise Flower also has another name, Bird of Paradise Flower (Bird of Paradise Flower). Orange petals and blue pistils make up this brilliantly colored flower. The flower shape is acute-angled. Just one bird of paradise is enough to make an entire bouquet look vividly lifelike. Bird of Paradise Flower is a typical bird-pollinated plant. In its place of origin, it relies on hummingbirds weighing only 2 g for pollination, and generally requires artificial pollination before it can set seed normally.
Distribution area of Bird of Paradise Flower
Native to southern Africa, now widely cultivated. Countries such as the United States, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, and the Philippines all produce Bird of Paradise Flower abundantly. Since the 1990s, China has established production bases for Bird of Paradise Flower seedlings and potted flowers in Guangdong, Fujian, Jiangsu, and other places.
Variety classification of Bird of Paradise Flower
Common ornamental species in the same genus include:
White Bird of Paradise (S. nicolai), a large potted plant, clumping, with large leaves, petioles 1.5 m long, leaf blades 1 m long and heart-shaped at the base. It blooms from June to July, with large flowers, white sepals, and light blue petals.
S. parvifolia, about 1 m tall, with club-shaped leaves and large flowers, orange-red sepals, and purple petals. S. kewensis is a hybrid of white Bird of Paradise and Bird of Paradise Flower, 1.5 m tall, with large leaves and long petioles. It blooms in spring and summer, with large flowers; both sepals and petals are light yellow with light purplish-red spots.
S. candata, with pink sepals and white petals. S. golden is a precious variety newly discovered in 1989, 1.8 m tall, with large flowers; both sepals and petals are yellow.
Others
1. White-flowered Bird of Paradise: a common species in the same genus. Flowers white; other traits same as Bird of Paradise Flower.
2. Small-leaved Bird of Paradise: a common species in the same genus. Leaves club-shaped, flowers large, outer petals deep orange-red, inner petals purple.
3. S. nicolai: a common species in the same genus. The plant is taller than Bird of Paradise Flower, about 5 m. Leaves are larger, heart-shaped at the base, and petioles are also longer. The involucre is reddish-brown, outer petals white, inner petals blue.
Propagation methods of Bird of Paradise Flower: seed propagationThe plants of Bird of Paradise Flower are pollinated in their place of origin by hummingbirds weighing only 2 g, and are typical bird-pollinated plants. Under general cultivation conditions in China, artificial assisted pollination is necessary for them to set seeds. Seed collection mother plants should be selected from plants with upright plant type, thick petioles, rounded and blunt leaf tips, and broad and thick leaf blades. When the flower opens, use the middle finger of the left hand to support the lower part of the fused petals, and gently press the two wings of the petals with the thumb and index finger to separate them longitudinally from the center, exposing the wrapped anthers and pollen. Then use a clean brush to apply pollen to the stigma at the tip. The entire stigma must be coated, and then press the petals together to fix the style. The first pollination is the key to success or failure. If the stigma is coated evenly, fertilization of the ovules can basically be ensured. However, to ensure pollination quality, supplement pollination 1 to 2 more times before the stigma dries. Under normal circumstances, about 5 days after pollination, this flower gradually wilts, and at the same time the second flower of the same inflorescence rises and opens. Pollination can be carried out flower by flower in the above manner until all flowers in the entire inflorescence have been pollinated. With artificial pollination, seeds mature in about 3 months, and after harvesting they should be sown immediately, otherwise the seeds very easily lose viability. Keep the temperature at about 25°C, and they will germinate in about 3 to 4 weeks. After artificial pollination, it takes 80 to 100 days for the seeds to mature. Mature seeds should be sown immediately, and the germination rate is high. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water for 4 to 5 days, then disinfect them in 5% New Jie'er Min 1000 times solution for 5 minutes. The suitable germination temperature is 25 to 30°C, and they germinate 15 to 20 days after sowing. If the sowing temperature is unstable, germination will be uneven or seedlings will rot and die after germination. After the seeds germinate, small seedlings form in half a year, and they bloom only after 4 to 5 years of cultivation and when they have 9 to 10 mature leaves.Division propagationCarry it out in early spring when changing pots. Take the plant out of the pot, split it from the gaps in the rhizome with a sharp knife, and coat the wounds with plant ash to prevent rot. For pot cultivation, each divided clump should have no fewer than 8 to 10 leaves. For shed or greenhouse cultivation, each divided clump should have no fewer than 5 to 6 leaves. After planting, place it in a semi-shaded place for care, and it can bloom in autumn and winter of that year. More side buds sprouting is beneficial for division. When planting, attention should be paid to planting appropriately shallowly, so that the root crown of the plant is slightly higher than the pot soil. In this way, side buds can emerge every year. When they have grown to no fewer than four leaves, division can be carried out in June and July with high temperature and high humidity. When dividing, after pouring the entire plant out of the pot, first rinse off the old soil with tap water, and after the direction of the root system can be clearly distinguished, cut carefully. Each group of fleshy roots should carry a certain number of leaves and 2 to 3 new buds, and the new plant should have no fewer than three roots. If a plant has fewer than four leaves, several plants can be cut together rather than being cut separately into individual plants, otherwise they are not easy to survive. After cutting, whether new plants or old plants, if the roots are too long when potting, they can be appropriately shortened. Coat the cut wounds with plant ash or sulfur powder, let them dry in a cool place for half a day, then plant them directly into the "three-mix soil" suitable for Bird of Paradise Flower potting, water thoroughly, and place in semi-shade. Afterward, do not water unless dry; when watering, water thoroughly. After about 45 days, fertilizer and water management can be carried out normally. With this division method, the old plant's flowering in the same year is not affected, and the new plant can bloom the following year. Tissue culture propagation can also be used. Use petioles or shortened stems as explants, rinse with 70% alcohol for 5 minutes, then disinfect in 0.3% mercuric chloride solution for 15 minutes, and finally rinse with sterile distilled water. Use MS liquid medium, adding indolebutyric acid 2.5 mg/L, naphthaleneacetic acid 1.0 mg/L, kinetin 5 mg/L, and 2,4-D 0.5 mg/L. Explants can also use terminal buds, inflorescence axes, and stem nodes. Bird of Paradise Flower is a scarce and precious cut flower on the market. Division is the best propagation method for Bird of Paradise Flower. Mother plants should be selected from robust adult plants with many tillers, neat leaves, and no pests or diseases. For mother plants used for whole-plant digging and division, plants generally chosen are those grown for more than 3 years, with more than 4 buds and a total leaf count of no fewer than 16. For plants used for potting after division, plants with more rooted tiller seedlings can be selected. Whether planted in sheds or field seedlings used for potting, the suitable time is May to June. The method of not retaining the mother plant for division means digging up the whole plant for division. This method is suitable when field seedlings are too dense and thinning is needed. Dig the entire clump out of the soil (retaining as many roots as possible). After the root system and the gaps between buds and buds can be clearly distinguished, reasonably choose cutting points according to plant size on the premise of ensuring each small divided seedling has 2 to 3 buds, and use a sharp knife to divide the mother plant into 2 to 3 clumps from the gaps in the rhizome. The cuts should be dipped in plant ash and dried in a ventilated place for 3 to 5 hours. Overly long roots can be appropriately shortened, and then they can be planted. During division, note that the new plant should have no fewer than 3 roots, a total leaf count of no fewer than 8 to 10, and generally 2 to 3 buds. If the root system is too small or there are too few side buds, several plants can be merged and planted.
The method of retaining the mother plant for division. When field seedlings grow too vigorously and thinning is not needed, the mother plant may not be dug up; instead, directly in the field, split the side plants of the mother plant into several clumps with a sharp knife (method as above). If potting is needed, only a few well-growing side plants should be separated from the mother plant for planting. For already potted and luxuriant plants, division propagation can be carried out together with repotting.
Propagation notes:
I. Seed propagation
Bird of Paradise Flower is a bird-pollinated plant and generally requires artificial pollination to set seed normally. After artificial pollination, seeds mature in 80 to 100 days. After the seeds mature, they should be sown immediately. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water for 4 to 5 days, then disinfect them in 5% New Jie'er Min 1000 times solution for 5 minutes. After sowing, the seeds need to be covered with soil to a thickness twice that of the seeds. If the soil cover is too thick, the seeds will have difficulty germinating; if too thin, the roots will be exposed and the survival rate will not be high. During germination, maintain the temperature at 25 to 30°C; they can germinate in 15 to 20 days. If the sowing temperature is unstable, germination will be uneven or seedlings will rot and die after germination. After the seeds germinate, small seedlings form in half a year, and they bloom only after 4 to 5 years of cultivation and when they have 9 to 10 mature leaves.
II. Division propagation
1. Selection of mother plants: Mother plants should be selected from robust adult plants with many tillers, neat leaves, and no pests or diseases. For mother plants used for whole-plant digging and division, plants generally chosen are those grown for more than 3 years, with more than 4 buds and a total leaf count of no fewer than 16. For plants used for potting after division, plants with more rooted tiller seedlings can be selected.
2. Division time: Whether planted in sheds or field seedlings used for potting, the suitable time is May to June.
3. Division method: (1) The method of not retaining the mother plant for division, that is, digging up the whole plant for division. This method is suitable when field seedlings are too dense and thinning is needed. Dig the entire clump out of the soil (retaining as many roots as possible). After the root system and the gaps between buds and buds can be clearly distinguished, reasonably choose cutting points according to plant size on the premise of ensuring each small divided seedling has 2 to 3 buds, and use a sharp knife to divide the mother plant into 2 to 3 clumps from the gaps in the rhizome. The cuts should be dipped in plant ash and dried in a ventilated place for 3 to 5 hours. Overly long roots can be appropriately shortened, and then they can be planted. During division, note that the new plant should have no fewer than 3 roots, a total leaf count of no fewer than 8 to 10, and generally 2 to 3 buds. If the root system is too small or there are too few side buds, several plants can be merged and planted.
(2) The method of retaining the mother plant for division. When field seedlings grow too vigorously and thinning is not needed, the mother plant may not be dug up; instead, directly in the field, split the side plants of the mother plant into several clumps with a sharp knife (method as above). If potting is needed, only a few well-growing side plants should be separated from the mother plant for planting. For already potted and luxuriant plants, division propagation can be carried out together with repotting.
Sowing and seedling raising of Bird of Paradise Flower
Seeds of Bird of Paradise Flower can be sown in any season, but in terms of genetic characteristics, the germination rate of seeds is generally about 50%, and the suitable germination temperature is 25 to 30°C. After sowing in spots, radicles begin to grow after 20 to 25 days, and after another 35 to 40 days, the leaves emerge from the soil.First stageSeed pretreatment. Remove the colored fuzz on the seeds (easily removed with a thumbnail), soak the seeds in warm water for 1 to 2 days, changing the water twice a day, to facilitate germination.Second stageSowing. Spread the moist medium in a container. Press the seeds into the container to a depth of about 0.7 cm, cover moderately, and place in a warm place at 24 to 30°C. Keep moist and avoid drying out completely. The container must be covered with plastic film to help maintain humidity.Third stageCare after seed emergence. Maintain sufficient light, avoid overwatering and strong light. Strengthen ventilation, try to water in the morning and let it dry by evening. At the two-leaf stage, transplant for seedling raising. Transplant seedlings into 5 cm peat plug trays, and when roots grow out of the holes, move them into 10 cm trays. Seeds can also be sown directly into plug trays, and when the root system fills the plug tray, transplant them into larger containers.Transplanting / pottingWhen seedlings are 30 to 40 cm tall and have about 8 leaves, they can be planted out. During transplanting, damage to the fleshy roots must be prevented. The planting depth should be such that the rhizome is buried 2 to 3 cm below the soil surface. Shallow planting easily injures new buds; too deep planting affects bud sprouting and flower bud differentiation. After planting, water thoroughly, and then for about two consecutive weeks, insist on spraying water on the leaves every day to help the plant recover growth. For potting, use a mixed soil of garden soil, peat, and sand, with good drainage effect; preferably use sterilized mixed soil. Soilless medium can also be used.Light regulationBird of Paradise Flower needs no fewer than 4 hours of direct light every day, and preferably bright light all day. Take some protective measures when sunlight is strong. In winter, the main flowering period, sufficient sunlight helps increase flower production. Light regulation emphasizes the management principle of "not shady in winter, not exposed in summer." Under shading, the leaves look more beautiful, but the number of flowers is relatively smaller.Temperature controlTemperature management of Bird of Paradise Flower is of great significance for flower production. Usually Bird of Paradise Flower growth is inhibited above 40°C, suffers freezing damage below 0°C, and grows well within 18 to 30°C. It is best to ensure nighttime temperature (13 to 18°C) and daytime temperature (31 to 35°C). Within the suitable temperature range, flower buds can form in the leaf axil of every leaf of Bird of Paradise Flower. Therefore, controlling the cultivation temperature well is the key to increasing Bird of Paradise Flower yield.Fertilizer and water managementEnsure sufficient and regular water supply. Except from September to February, when the plant needs to remain dry, the soil should remain regularly moist at other times. Using well-drained medium is the key to cultivation management. Bird of Paradise Flower fears waterlogging at the cultivation site, because its fleshy roots can tolerate drought but fear flooding. The growth of Bird of Paradise Flower requires fertile, slightly acidic soil and heavy fertilizer. It can be planted in sandy soil rich in humus, or made by mixing coarse sand, leaf mold, peat, and garden soil in equal parts. If the soil is relatively poor, put decomposed fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer into the hole when planting. Apply top dressing once 7 to 10 days after planting, using 0.05 kg of compound fertilizer per sq m. After entering flowering age, in the first 2 months of the flower production season, supplement with 1 soil application of 0.02% monopotassium phosphate each month, or apply half of that as foliar top dressing.
Cultivation techniques of Bird of Paradise Flower
Because Bird of Paradise Flower has well-developed fleshy roots and grows quickly, the preparation of potting soil is very important and must have good permeability, otherwise the roots easily rot. The potting soil can be prepared as follows: mix 2 parts garden soil, 1 part peat soil or leaf mold, and 1 part coarse sand; or mix 1 part garden soil, 2 parts peat soil, 3 parts compost soil, and 1 part coarse sand. During the seedling stage, it is suitable to repot once a year. For flowering adult plants, repot once every 2 to 3 years depending on growth conditions. During the growth period, mainly apply organic liquid fertilizer, supplemented by compound fertilizer or monopotassium phosphate (0.2% concentration), until flower buds appear. Stop fertilizing during the flowering period. The location should have good ventilation, otherwise it easily breeds scale insects. Around Frost's Descent, move it into a greenhouse, and the room temperature should be controlled at 10 to 24°C. After artificial pollination, the ovary expands very quickly. If fertilization is good, every flower can form a fruit, and each inflorescence can form multiple fruits, and each fruit has from several to dozens of seeds. Well-developed and mature seeds are pea-sized, with a hard seed coat, shiny black-brown, plump, and with golden umbilicus hairs. Mature seeds are best sown promptly, and seedlings emerge quickly and neatly. For sowing, use plain sandy soil or plain sandy soil with 1/3 peat soil added. Soak the pot soil thoroughly with water. When there is no water on the soil surface, evenly sow the seeds in spots in a shallow pot at a spacing of about 2 cm, then cover with soil, with the principle that the soil cover thickness does not exceed 2 times that of the seeds. Place the sowing pot in a humid semi-shaded place. To keep the soil moist, cover the pot surface with glass pieces or plastic film. The temperature should preferably be 25°C, and generally buds appear in about 30 days. After the seedlings emerge, move the pot to a bright place and remove the covering at the same time so that the seedlings can receive light and grow robustly. When the seedlings grow to 5 to 7 cm, thin them by transplanting them into another pot at a spacing of 5 cm. When they grow to 10 to 15 cm, plant one plant per pot. Generally, sown seedlings cultivated properly can bloom in 3 years. Temperature, light, water, and soil have a direct relationship with the growth and development of Bird of Paradise Flower. In winter, the temperature should be kept between 10 and 25°C, not lower than 8°C. Below 8°C, growth stops. If the temperature drops below 4°C, although the plant can endure it for a short time, the formed flower buds easily wither and die. Generally, move it into a greenhouse before Cold Dew, and move it outdoors after Grain Rain. It is not demanding about humidity. Because the roots store a certain amount of water, the amount of watering should be determined according to seasonal changes, growth and development needs, and soil moisture conditions. Light has a direct relationship with growth and development. In autumn, winter, and spring it needs sufficient light, while in summer it needs shading. The soil is required to have good permeability and the best drainage and water retention performance. Block peat soil can be selected, and attention should be paid to timely fertilization and pest and disease control.Basic requirements:Water: requires humid air and well-drained soil. Fertilizer: likes fertilizer. During the growth period, apply liquid fertilizer once every 15 days. Soil: requires loose, fertile loam. Temperature: likes warmth, is not cold-tolerant, and in winter must not be lower than 5°C. Light: in summer it fears strong sunlight exposure, while in winter it needs sufficient sunlight and smooth air. For potted Bird of Paradise Flower, use loose and fertile potting soil, leaf mold plus a small amount of coarse sand, and place more coarse tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage and benefit the growth and development of the fleshy roots. When planting, it should not be too deep; the standard is that the fleshy roots are not visible, otherwise it affects new bud sprouting. In the summer growth period and the autumn-winter flowering period, sufficient water is needed; after early spring flowering, appropriately reduce watering. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month, especially applying fertilizer promptly when new leaves grow, because more new leaves mean more flower stems. When flower stems have formed and until full bloom, apply phosphate fertilizer 2 to 3 times. After the flowers fade, if seeds are not needed, the flower stems should be cut off immediately to reduce nutrient consumption. In winter, remove broken leaves and dead leaves, so that it can bloom continuously every year. Mature Bird of Paradise Flower should be repotted once every 2 to 3 years. Cultivation managementBird of Paradise Flower likes a warm, humid environment with sufficient sunlight and good ventilation, and requires loose sandy soil rich in humus and with good drainage. Bird of Paradise Flower is not cold-tolerant. The most suitable growth temperature is 15 to 25°C, and below 8°C growth stops. In winter, when the temperature is not lower than 4°C, it can be placed in a place facing north and south with light, watered appropriately less, and overwintered in the open field. In the north, the flowers should be moved indoors or into plastic sheds to overwinter. 1) Water and fertilizer regulation: Bird of Paradise Flower fears waterlogging. During summer growth and the autumn-winter flowering period, water should be sufficient; after early spring flowering, watering should be appropriately reduced. In summer, generally water once a day, and in the morning and evening use a spray pot to spray clean water on the leaf surface and surrounding ground to increase air humidity. In winter, reduce watering and keep the soil slightly dry. If it is to continue growing, watering should be more and frequent. Bird of Paradise Flower likes fertilizer. An appropriate amount of phosphate and potassium should be added to the grave soil, and during the growing season, apply active humic acid liquid fertilizer once every about 2 weeks. In autumn and winter, mainly use phosphate and potassium fertilizers; apply monopotassium phosphate with water to the roots, which can make the plant grow robustly and produce more and larger flowers. 2) Pay attention to light: Bird of Paradise Flower likes light. If light is insufficient, it very easily causes poor plant growth and affects flowering, so attention must be paid to light. In spring and autumn, place the flowerpot in a sunny place for cultivation, while in winter it should receive more sunlight, otherwise it will directly affect leaf growth and flower color. But in summer, because the sunlight is too strong, the plant should be placed under a shade frame for care to prevent the leaves from being scorched by the hot sun and affecting their ornamental value. 3) Repotting and changing soil: Bird of Paradise Flower is a large potted ornamental flower with fast growth and well-developed roots. Generally, seedlings should be repotted and have their soil changed once a year, while after the plant has formed, it should be repotted and have its soil changed once every 2 to 3 years, with division carried out in spring. 4) Pruning: To improve flower bud quality, promptly remove old leaves, diseased leaves, and useless flower and fruit branches. 5) Pest and disease control: The main pests and diseases of Bird of Paradise Flower include gray mold, damping-off, cottony cushion scale, and heart-boring worms. Scale insects mostly occur in high-temperature seasons. During the larval hatching period, 40% omethoate 1000 times solution can be sprayed for control. Heart-boring worms mainly bore into and eat tender shoots and flower buds, causing great damage. During the larval stage, 40% omethoate 800 times solution can be sprayed once a week for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays. Under conditions of low temperature, high humidity, or plants being too dense and ventilation being poor, gray mold and damping-off easily occur. For control methods, pay attention to ventilation and air exchange in sheds. On sunny days, generally ventilate from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; on cloudy days, pay attention to keeping warm and shortening the ventilation time. In the early stage of disease, 0.5% potassium permanganate or 50% carbendazim can be used for control.
Disease control of Bird of Paradise Flower
Pests and diseases: Bird of Paradise Flower is susceptible to root rot, gray mold, and bacterial damping-off. Before sowing, seeds need to be soaked in warm water and the soil disinfected. The control method for gray mold is: spray water on the plants as little as possible, apply more potassium fertilizer, and ensure good ventilation; in the early stage of disease, use 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 500 times solution once every 10 days, for a total of 2 to 3 applications. For the control of bacterial damping-off, attention should be paid to soil disinfection. When planting, the plant spacing should not be too small, planting should not be too deep, old leaves should be cut off promptly, ventilation and nutrient management should be strengthened, and plant growth vigor should be increased. Once diseased plants are found, remove them immediately and carry out local soil disinfection. During the growth period, spray validamycin regularly to achieve early control. Common pests include mealybugs, red spiders, and scale insects, all of which can be controlled with insecticides. Pests and diseases must be controlled very carefully, otherwise the leaves will become rough and look very old. When cultivated in sheds or indoors, if the air is not circulating, scale insect damage easily occurs, and 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000 times solution can be sprayed to kill them. In summer high temperatures, the leaf edges of Bird of Paradise Flower often appear scorched and yellow. Most cases are physiological diseases caused by dry air, and a few are caused by leaf spot disease, which can be controlled by spraying 65% zineb wettable powder 600 times solution. Bird of Paradise Flower is susceptible to root rot. Attention should be paid to soil disinfection and watering control. After onset, remove and burn the rotten roots, and sprinkle lime in the holes for disinfection.
Before Bird of Paradise Flower leaves the nursery, ventilation and air exchange should be strengthened so that the plants undergo hardening, so as to avoid potted flowers being unsuited to the environment after sale and thus affecting growth and flowering, and remove yellow leaves and diseased leaves. For cut flowers, harvesting is generally done when the first small flower is in bud or fully open. For cut flowers to be stored and transported, they can be cut before the flower buds show color. The cut flower stems should reach more than 70 cm. After harvest and water treatment, they can be stored dry for one month at 7 to 8°C. If long-distance transport is needed, after soaking in water, the cut flowers should be transported dry in a moisture-retaining box at 7 to 8°C; below 7°C easily causes low-temperature injury. During storage, cut flowers are sensitive to gray mold, and fungicide should be sprayed for protection before storage and transport.
Common diseases include damping-off and red rust. The former easily occurs under poor drainage and when plants are relatively large. Opening drainage ditches before planting can control it. The latter easily occurs in the plum rain season. After onset, diseased leaves should be removed promptly to avoid infection. The main pests include the striped rice borer, scarab beetles, and scale insects, which can be controlled with corresponding pesticides.
Uses and purposes of Bird of Paradise Flower
Bird of Paradise Flower, also called the flower of the bird of paradise and the flower of the paradise bird. From this poetic name, it is not hard to imagine its nobility and elegance. Bird of Paradise Flower is native to South Africa and was introduced to the United Kingdom in 1973. As soon as the British saw Bird of Paradise Flower, they were attracted by its dignified and generous, gorgeous yet charming posture, and called it an indescribable flower. Bird of Paradise Flower is also a rare and precious flower in China. Its flowers are extremely delicate and gorgeous. The pistil is sky blue, while the sepals surrounding the pistil are bright orange-yellow, and the bracts supporting the bottom are orchid green with purple edges. The entire flower shape opens among the rich and upright green leaves, much like the posture of a red-crowned crane holding its head high and gazing into the distance.
Bird of Paradise Flower has strong adaptability and is easy to cultivate. It is an ornamental flower with economic value. Potted Bird of Paradise Flower placed in hotels, reception halls, and large conferences gives a fresh and elegant feeling. In the south it can be planted in clumps at courtyard corners or used to accent the center of flower beds, also with excellent landscape effects. It is also an important cut flower.
The leaves of Bird of Paradise Flower resemble those of canna, and the entire flower shape is like a red-crowned crane spreading its wings in flight and stretching its neck to gaze afar. With brilliant colors, a peculiar posture, and a long flowering period, it is one of the most popular fresh cut flowers in the world today and has very high ornamental value. In South Africa it is regarded by Black people as a symbol of "freedom, good fortune, and happiness." If planted in clumps in a corner of a courtyard or used as an accent in a flower bed, it greatly adds natural charm. If a blooming potted plant is placed in a living room, meeting room, or bedroom, it will give you a wonderful fantasy of a red-crowned crane flying in.
Cut flower measures for Bird of Paradise Flower: site selection and plantingFor planting Bird of Paradise Flower, choose sandy loam with relatively sufficient light, good soil drainage and air permeability, deep soil layer, high organic matter content, and pH 6 to 7. The planting time is generally April to May or September to October. Before planting, dig the holes well and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Plant spacing is 1 m x 1 m. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the roots. During the recovery period after survival, appropriately shade the plants.Water and fertilizer managementThe fleshy root system of large Bird of Paradise Flower seedlings is thick and strong and has a relatively strong function of storing and regulating the plant's water supply and demand, so it is not necessary to water every day. In summer, generally 3 to 4 times a week, and in winter 2 to 3 times a week. Each watering should be based on watering thoroughly. Large Bird of Paradise Flower seedlings can grow and bloom all year round and require a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so more organic fertilizers such as cake fertilizer and livestock manure should be applied. The annual application amount of organic fertilizer per clump is 30 to 50 kg. For chemical fertilizer application, attention should be paid to scientific formulation according to the available nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium content of the soil, and to adjusting the fertilization amount according to the peak and off seasons of flower production. Experiments show that vigorously growing plants require a relatively large amount of nitrogen, and their cut flower commercial flower rate and first-grade flower rate are also relatively high. The application amount of compound fertilizer is 100 g per clump per month, but it should be appropriately increased or decreased according to market demand for cut flowers and changes in flower prices, with the principle of improving the output-to-input ratio. Generally speaking, summer is the off season for cut flower consumption, and market flower prices are relatively low, so measures to reduce fertilization should be taken to control summer flower production and also save production costs. Foliar spraying of boric acid and monopotassium phosphate has a certain effect on improving cut flower quality.Summer shadingIn the south subtropical region, using shade nets to shade Bird of Paradise Flower plants in summer can reduce exposure and scorching of plants and leaves by strong sunlight and high temperatures and keep the plants growing well. Summer shading treatment of plants will significantly reduce the first-grade flower rate of the cut flowers produced. Because summer market flower prices are low, only about 20% of those in the peak demand season, summer cut flower production should be controlled, the amount put on the market reduced, and the plants protected to pass through summer smoothly, thereby increasing the yield and quality of cut flowers in the winter and spring peak demand season. From the perspective of annual economic returns, the gains outweigh the losses.Building sheds in winterIn the southern part of this province, temperatures from December to March of the following year in winter and spring are relatively low, and northern cold waves often invade. Bird of Paradise Flower cut flower production is low, while market demand for cut flowers increases during this period and prices rise. Experiments show that using the measure of building film arched sheds in the field can significantly promote increased cut flower production, with small arched sheds having the best effect, increasing cut flower production by 300% compared with open field cultivation. Moreover, simple film small arched sheds are easy to source materials for and easy to build, low in cost, and good in heat preservation and flower promotion effects, and are suitable for adoption by the vast number of rural growers.
Related questions about Bird of Paradise Flower
Why is it difficult for Strelitzia (bird of paradise) seeds to sprout? The reasons why Strelitzia seeds fail to sprout may be: the seeds have lost their germinating power, or are immature, or the water used for soaking the seeds was too hot, or improper management after sowing, causing the seeds to rot or dry up. However, Strelitzia seedlings emerge very unevenly; some seeds can still sprout after half a year or even longer, so do not give up on them just because they have not sprouted yet. Seeds introduced from elsewhere are generally quite dehydrated, so before sowing it is best to soak them in 30-40°C water for 2-3 days, changing the water 1-2 times in between, so the seeds absorb enough water to improve their germinating power. For sowing, do not use heavy clay soil; choose loose soil with good drainage, such as plain sandy soil or plain sandy soil mixed with one third peat soil. First soak the potting soil with water and then take it out; when there is no water on the soil surface, evenly sow the seeds in a "shallow pot", covering with soil no more than twice the volume of the seeds. Before the seeds germinate they dislike strong light, so it is best to place them in a fairly moist, semi-shaded spot. To keep the soil moist and increase the temperature, a pane of glass or plastic film can be placed over the sowing pot. A temperature of around 25°C is suitable. If the pot soil looks dry before germination, water it using the "soaking method" or a fine-rose watering can. Generally, seedlings emerge gradually in about 30 days. During the germination process, if root seedlings are found emerging from the soil, bury them back into the soil promptly, otherwise they will easily wither and die over time. 2. How to propagate Strelitzia? Strelitzia is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Its seeds are hard and black like peas, with orange-red down at the tip. They need to be soaked in water at 15°C for 4-5 days. After fully absorbing water, sow them in a clay pot or hard plastic tray, with the substrate temperature preferably reaching 18-22°C. Cover the container with glass to prevent damage from mice. Mist to keep it moist; seedlings emerge in about 20 days and need shading. When the seedlings grow to 5-7 cm, they can be transplanted into clay pots. A mixture of 4 parts garden soil, 3 parts orchid soil, 2 parts sandy soil and 1 part mountain soil is good. Water thoroughly; from July onward apply diluted soybean cake fertilizer or 1% nutrient solution every half month to promote growth, or apply monopotassium phosphate compound fertilizer at 1:250 dilution. From September begin controlling water to avoid excessive moisture. Throughout the growth process, avoid direct sunlight and excessive drought. In the first year it can produce 4-5 leaves, reaching about 20 cm in height. Repot and add soil every year; when 12-14 leaves have grown, it shifts from the seedling stage to the flowering stage.
Pot cultivation techniques for Strelitzia. I. Pot cultivation techniques
The cultivation method should be adapted to the size of the seedling. For 2-3 year old seedling plants grown from seed, they should first be planted in the ground for about two years, and after flower buds appear, planted into an appropriately sized pot; this favors growth and increases the number of flower buds. If not planted in the ground, they can first be planted in a small pot, then moved into a corresponding pot according to growth. When potting a plant that has already flowered, soak it in a rooting agent before potting. The potting soil should be rich in humus and well drained. It should be placed in full light all year round; after being moved indoors or into a greenhouse in winter, it must receive sufficient light. During the growing period, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every half month; from flower stem formation to full bloom, apply superphosphate 2-3 times. After the flowers fade, promptly cut off the spent flowers to reduce nutrient consumption. Generally, change the potting soil once every two years.
Key points for pot cultivation and care:
1. Choose a suitable growing medium
Potted Strelitzia requires loose, humus-rich soil as a growing medium, with an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or cake fertilizer added as a base fertilizer. A certain proportion of coarse sand can be mixed into the growing medium to aid drainage. Because Strelitzia has thick fleshy roots, poor soil aeration can very easily cause root rot. Generally, a mix of 2 parts garden soil, 1 part leaf mold and 1 part coarse sand can be used, or a mix of 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts peat soil, 3 parts compost and 1 part coarse sandy soil.
2. Water and fertilizer should be moderate
Strelitzia fears drought and dislikes waterlogging, so watering should be determined by the season, the plant's growth condition and the degree of soil dryness. The summer growing period and the autumn and winter flowering period require ample water; after flowering in early spring, watering can be appropriately reduced. In summer, generally water once a day, and in the morning and evening spray water on the leaves and the surrounding ground to increase air humidity. In rainy weather, pay attention to timely drainage. In winter, watering should be appropriately reduced, and keeping the potting soil slightly dry is best; if it is to continue growing, then water somewhat more and more frequently. It likes fertilizer; besides adding an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the potting soil as a base fertilizer, during the growing season apply diluted fertilizer about once every two weeks, and in autumn and winter focus on phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, so the plant grows robustly and produces more and larger flowers.
3. Adjust the light well
Strelitzia is a light-loving plant; if light is insufficient, the plant tends to grow poorly and produce few or no flowers. Therefore, in spring and autumn it should be placed in a sunny spot for cultivation, and in winter it should receive even more sunlight. Cultivating it under conditions of ample sunlight and a temperature of 23°C to 25°C can promote flower bud development. But in summer, because the sunlight is too intense, the plant must be placed under a shade canopy, so the leaves are not scorched by the fierce sun and their ornamental value is not affected.
4. Pay attention to protection against freezing
Strelitzia is not cold-hardy; its most suitable growing temperature is 15°C to 25°C, and it stops growing below 8°C. In areas where the winter temperature is not lower than 4°C, it can be placed in a spot facing south with its back to the north and with light, watering appropriately reduced, and it can overwinter in the open ground. In areas where the winter temperature is lower than 4°C, the plant must be moved indoors to overwinter.
5. Pay attention to repotting
Strelitzia is a large potted ornamental flower; it grows quickly and has a well-developed root system, so generally during the seedling stage it should be repotted and given fresh soil once a year. After the plant has matured, it should be repotted once every 2 to 3 years and divided. If not divided, choose a relatively deep and large pot (to favor root development), and place a layer of broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to aid drainage and the application of base fertilizer.
II. Ground cultivation techniquesMainly for cut flower production inside a greenhouse.
1. Planting: Before planting, the soil should be sterilized and sufficient organic fertilizer applied. There are no strict requirements for soil pH; it can adapt to acidic, neutral and even alkaline soil. The best planting time is from late March to early June, but inside a greenhouse it can be done from March to November. Only the former is easier to manage after planting. Plant and row spacing depends on the size of the greenhouse; generally row spacing is 80 cm to 90 cm and plant spacing is 50 cm to 60 cm. If the plants are small, they cannot flower within 2-3 years. To avoid wasting soil, they can first be planted densely at 3-4 plants per sq m, and transplanted after 3-4 years. When planting plants that have already flowered, the planting hole diameter should exceed 60 cm. Firm the soil after planting. If conditions permit, it is best to place the seedlings in a rooting agent for 1 hour before planting to aid rooting.
2. Water and fertilizer management: After planting, water thoroughly; water once a day for the first week, and thereafter water whenever the soil looks dry. Strelitzia is extremely drought-tolerant; generally it will not wither even without watering for 1-2 months. Under normal circumstances, in winter it is enough to water once every 7-10 days at noon, and in summer water 2-3 times a week, but excessive dryness must also be prevented. During the growing period, topdress with fertilizer promptly.
3. Temperature management: To ensure a suitable growing temperature and a winter temperature not lower than 5°C, the greenhouse should be covered from November to March; if one layer is not enough, two layers of plastic film can be used, and in cold areas heating is needed. But too high a temperature is also not good; after the temperature rises in March, pay attention to ventilation at noon to prevent continuous high temperatures above 40°C from causing physiological disorders and flower bud death. The greenhouse can generally be dismantled in April to May, but in areas with abundant rain, to prevent excessively high soil moisture content, the upper part of the greenhouse can be left in place to block rain. However, the film around the sides should all be removed to aid ventilation and cooling.
4. Light: The effect of light on Strelitzia varies with climate conditions and the age of the plant. Strelitzia's flowering period runs from autumn to early summer, with peaks in autumn and spring. Among these, environmental conditions such as sunshine and temperature have a significant effect on the flowering period. Light intensity in particular has a great influence on the number of flowers, the timing of the flowering period and its duration; the stronger the light, the more it favors growth and flowering, so cultivating Strelitzia requires ample light, especially in winter.
Seedling-raising techniques for Strelitzia
1) Raising seedlings by sowing: Late March each year is the best season for raising seedlings by sowing. Before sowing, soak the seeds for 2 hours in 0.3% potassium permanganate or a 500-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, then soak them in 40°C warm water for 3 days to effectively remove the waxy layer on the seed coat surface. For the seedling substrate, use peat, furnace slag and fertile soil in a 1:1:2 ratio as the bed soil. Sow the seeds at 2.5 x 2.5 cm, cover with 0.3-1.0 cm of soil, at a temperature of 25-30°C, air humidity of 60%-70%, and light of 5000-10000 Lx. After emergence, gradually increase the light. When the seedlings have emerged and grown to the two-leaf-one-heart stage, the first seedling transplanting can be carried out, and the soil should first be sterilized, with a plant spacing of 10 x 10 cm. After transplanting, water thoroughly and protect the transplanted seedlings from scorching sun. Thereafter fertilize about once every 5 days until the shade canopy can be removed after autumn. Before frost, cover with plastic film to keep warm for overwintering, and ensure more than 2 hours of ventilation and air exchange at noon every day. After 2 years the seedlings generally grow to about 50 cm, with 8-10 leaves. At this point they should be planted out, with April to May being the best time. A two-stage planting method can be used: the first planting somewhat dense, and after 1-2 years, transplant at a row and plant spacing of 60 x 60 cm in a "pin" arrangement. After transplanting, water thoroughly. Spray water on the leaves every day, with 0.2% monopotassium phosphate or 0.2% potassium permanganate added to the water. Transplanted seedling plants generally begin flowering after 3-4 years. 2) Raising seedlings by division: Raising seedlings by division is suitable from April to June. Select robust mature plants with more than 5-6 growing root-sucker shoots and no pests or diseases. Division can use the method of retaining the mother plant or not retaining the mother plant. Plant the divisions in nutrient-rich, well-ventilated, slightly acidic sandy loam or a special cultivation substrate, and do not plant too deep. The root crown of the leaf clump must be exposed above the ground, but the fleshy roots must not be exposed. After planting, water thoroughly immediately, and protect with a shade net for a few days; only after the plant begins to sprout new leaves can it be returned to normal management. 3) Hand pollination: Strelitzia relies on hand pollination to obtain seeds. The method is: after the Strelitzia flower is in full bloom, gently separate the two bright blue inner petals from the center, and with a small regular-script brush that has been disinfected with ethanol and dried, dip the mature pollen from the center and smear it onto the slender, narrow stigma at the tip, pollinating two flowers per inflorescence. Then, after an interval of 2-3 days, repeat the pollination once more; the best pollination time is 8-10 in the morning. Cross-pollination can be used, and self-pollination can also be used. The seed-setting rate of cross-pollination is higher than that of self-pollination, reaching over 90%. After pollination, the seeds mature in 80-100 days. Each fruit can produce about 20 seeds. The seed collection period is best when the tip of the fruit shell has just begun to split. After collection, place the fruits in the sun to dry and thresh the seeds; sow promptly after threshing.
The cultural background of Strelitzia
Origin of the name
The trendy flower bird of paradise, full of the spirit of the times, was originally a wild flower native to the Cape of Good Hope in southern Africa, and the local Black people regarded it as a symbol of "freedom, good fortune and happiness". But for a long time it remained unknown. By the 18th century, Queen Charlotte, the consort beloved by King George II of England, because she liked this grass and flower the most, thought its flower shape particularly resembled a bird's crest and beak, and because her birthplace was originally called Bird of Paradise Village, she bestowed on this flower the name "bird of paradise" (later some also called it the bird of paradise flower). From then on this new star among flowers, named after an animal, became famous throughout the world. Chinese horticultural experts, however, felt its shape resembled a crane stretching its neck to gaze into the distance, so they specially named it "crane-looking orchid" (Strelitzia). In fact, it is not a true orchid, but a perennial herb belonging to the Strelitziaceae family. The plant reaches 1 m in height, grows in clumps, with leaves like those of a banana plant and fairly long leaf stalks arranged in a fan shape, giving a rugged appearance. The flower stem emerges from the leaf axil, reaching fifty or sixty cm long; its inflorescence consists of a boat-shaped bract, long like a palm, in the form of a spathe. When it blooms, the involucre is purplish red, the calyx orange-yellow, and the petals light blue, and the whole flower shape is like a colorful bird gliding with spread wings. Its flowering period is very long, blooming continuously from autumn to spring, with each plant producing about twenty or thirty flowers per year; if kept fresh properly, they can be enjoyed for more than 10 days before fading.
Related legends
Legend tells of a bird that lived in paradise, flying forever without being able to perch. Its plumage was exceptionally bright and beautiful, and it never felt hungry in its life; occasionally when thirsty, it took in only the moisture from the air. Yet, as if God deliberately punished it, it had no wings and no feet, so it could only spread its long decorative feathers and slowly, slowly float in the air, drifting everywhere like a dandelion seed, and it had to be so for its whole life. One day, it grew tired of the comfortable and peaceful life in paradise; it was convinced it no longer wished to stay there, and it deeply felt that such an unchanging existence would ultimately make its spirit rot. Therefore, it decided to take the opportunity of a flock of wild birds migrating to escape to the human world. As it wished, it indeed mingled among the wild birds and successfully escaped to the human world. On the way, its wild bird friends told it that the human world was a colorful world, with high mountains, rivers, oceans, forests, deserts and cities; these places were so new and interesting to it that it decided to visit them one by one to broaden its knowledge. First it came to a valley full of all kinds of beautiful flowers, where lived a pretty butterfly. It said to the butterfly: "How wonderful! Living among such a colorful array of flowers, you must be very happy, right?" The butterfly said: "Perhaps that is so for you! But do you understand that butterflies are all colorblind? I cannot even see my own appearance clearly!" At that moment, it only felt sorrow; must beautiful things always come with a flaw? It suddenly remembered that it had no wings; was that also a kind of flaw? It could not help feeling self-pity, and this feeling was something it had never had before. Next, it came to a river and saw a fish struggling to swim upstream to a waterfall. It felt very surprised; this waterfall was not high at all, and it only needed to wait for an updraft to easily float up above the waterfall, so why did the fish need to expend so much effort? It asked the fish: "Why not fly? That would be much easier." The fish told it: "I cannot fly! But I am not discouraged, because I know every living thing has its own way of life and its own fate. I swim all my life, just as you must fly all your life!" "Every living thing has its own fate!" it murmured, so as to remember this sentence. Then, as if suddenly remembering something, it asked the fish again: "Tell me, do you have a flaw?" The fish answered: "Yes, I cannot distinguish smells!" This answer satisfied it, so it happily set out on its journey again. Its third destination was a forest. It was a vast, verdant broad-leaved forest of the south, located on a high mountain on an island country, reaching as high as 2000 m above sea level. It happened to be spring, and many migratory birds were resting there, but among them one bird particularly caught its attention. It heard a sound like "bu bu, bu bu, bu bu", just like a flute played poorly; it felt this novel, so it asked "Passer-by Bird A": "What bird is that?" Passer-by Bird A said: "That is my younger brother! His call is terribly unpleasant, like blowing a bamboo tube, so he is called the Tube Bird." Then Passer-by Bird A showed off his voice, singing "cuckoo, cuckoo, cuckoo", and went off on his own. It disapproved, and plucking up courage, struck up a conversation with the Tube Bird: "Why do you sing like that?"
"Because I am happy!" the Tube Bird answered.
Happy? What kind of feeling was that? It asked the Tube Bird again: "What feeling is called happy?" The Tube Bird seemed very surprised by this question and asked in return: "You do not know what happy means? Where did you used to live?"
"In paradise!" it answered. "Oh, no wonder then. Life there is peaceful, and there is rarely a chance for you to experience joy, anger, sorrow and happiness." The Tube Bird then added: "Being happy means that certain things make you very satisfied!"
"Certain things make me very satisfied?" it murmured again, and then suddenly remembered the words the fish had told it about having a flaw, and at that time it had felt very satisfied. Mm, so this was the feeling of being happy! It thought so.
"Do you have a flaw?" it asked the Tube Bird again. "Yes, I cannot build a nest!" the Tube Bird told it dejectedly.
Without a doubt, this answer made it very satisfied! It quietly felt this feeling. In paradise it did not need to build a nest; the female bird usually laid the eggs directly on his back, and then he was responsible for carrying their next generation. To outsiders, like the seahorse, he could be considered a competent new good man!
"The feeling of being happy is really good!" it silently said to itself. Leaving the forest, it began to drift westward along the Tropic of Cancer. After drifting for a long, long time, it saw a vast, boundless expanse of sand - that was its fourth destination, the desert.
When it first arrived here it was very surprised, because it could not find any living creature that moved like itself; it could not even find a single landmark such as a plant, a tree or a rock. At that time, it was extremely disappointed, unable to fathom why its wild bird friends had mentioned this place to it. Fortunately, just then it happened to see a bright golden band, glinting with the luster of moonlight, sweeping across the sand.
"Hello!" it greeted politely. It understood how difficult it was to meet a friend in this wilderness, so it naturally felt warmth toward the little creature before its eyes.
"Hel...lo!" The snake seemed somewhat afraid of it. It asked the snake: "Why are you so nervous? I am your friend!" The snake said: "How do I know whether you will eat me?" It told the snake frankly: "I will not eat you. To be honest, I do not feel hungry at all! And look, I have no feet, and of course no claws."
The snake raised its head and looked, then said with relief: "Mm, it seems you really will not eat me!" "But it is also strange, how can you go without eating? I usually have to spend six months sleeping to digest the prey I have swallowed!" the snake said on and on.
"How pitiful! Then you must usually have no time to play." it said in a sympathetic tone. "I do not need to play. But I have the power to decide whether to let other lives play!" the snake said proudly. "Power? What is that?" it could not understand at all. The snake said: "It is a kind of invisible force that, like God, can control others."
It looked somewhat sad. God? Was that not the one who had taken away its wings and feet? Then it said to the snake: "I hate God, and I hate power too!" Perhaps its hatred was too deep! It even began to hate the snake a little as well, and in order to escape this unnecessary hostility, it decided to leave this place as soon as possible. Before leaving, it remembered that question again: "Do you have a flaw?"
"Yes, I cannot experience emotions!" the snake answered helplessly. It felt the snake was truly pitiful; the feeling of pity was something it had learned from the butterfly. Although it vaguely felt that this feeling was best not had often, compared with the snake, it felt that being able to pity others made it very fortunate. This time, the feeling of pity greatly outweighed satisfaction, so it did not feel happy.
What next? Where to go? It thought so. There was too little moisture in the air above the desert, making it especially prone to thirst; remembering that during the interval when it had just been talking with the snake it had kept feeling dry-mouthed and hoarse, a very uncomfortable feeling. The east was a bit better. So it drifted back eastward again. It came to a city in a basin. This city rained often, and such humidity made it feel very satisfied. Only, the air here was simply awful; compared with that vast desert, the dense black mass of human heads below seemed far too crowded, and besides that, those strangely towering buildings had glittering things stuck on their outsides that stung its eyes. But because it liked the humidity here, it felt it could tolerate such a tiny shortcoming.
Then it began to discover that in this city it could hardly find any higher-level living creature with which it could discuss flaws and emotions, and those winged friends in the city were also locked in small cages, lifeless. It felt this strange; was flying not the natural posture of birds? Why did people use such cages to tame and keep its own kind? It could not understand no matter how it tried!
"Why not go outside for a walk?" it asked the escaped bird in the cage. "This is my world. I belong here." the escaped bird in the cage said on and on. "But your world is so small! Outside there are high mountains, rivers, forests and deserts, so many fun places waiting for you to discover!"
"I have traveled to various continents, and in the end my own home is the most comfortable." The caged bird stretched. It simply could not believe this answer, because it clearly saw the uncontrollable look of envy in the caged bird's eyes. It looked at the caged bird pitifully, and could not help thinking: "Alas, this companion before my eyes, his mind and consciousness have already been controlled by humans. Look at him, his gaze is mournful and meek, his voice is warm and low, his wings are weak and feeble, his feathers are ruffled and lack luster, and he submits docilely; what is even more frightening is that he keeps saying he is very happy..." It was extremely disappointed in the caged bird, but it still suppressed the disgust in its heart and asked the caged bird the same question: "Is there a flaw in your heart?"
"Yes! I cannot forage for food myself!" the caged bird said very honestly. Hearing such an answer, it remembered what the fish had told it: "Every life has its own way of life and its own fate!" And the caged bird had abandoned the freedom bestowed by nature and chosen a life of ease; who could say that was not a kind of happiness?
This time it asked itself this question: "Do you have a flaw?"
"Yes! Lacking wings, losing both feet, being unable to perch - these are all my flaws!" It finished telling its flaws in one breath. Then, it developed a very strong desire - it wanted to stop and perch.
Because of this wish, it drifted over all the mountains, only to find a beautiful rock that could serve as its foothold. At last, by a river seldom visited by people, it found a sapphire embedded in a large rock; the dazzling, eye-stinging reflection reminded it of the glittering things stuck on the outsides of buildings, and that naturally formed blue reminded it of the sky and the sea. It remembered the wild bird's reminder that it should go visit the ocean, but the sea breeze was simply too strong, so that it could not steady its body to observe the sea well.
"Then let this touch of blue stand in for the ocean's flaw!" Having said this, it tightly wound its two decorative feathers around the rock. It truly perched; the wind could no longer blow it away. "I can finally have a good sleep!" It lowered its head and began to enter a deep sleep.
And so, this sleep lasted a full seven years - one third of its life. And during these seven years, its decorative feathers quietly turned into the roots and stems of a plant, and its feathers gradually transformed into brilliant petals; next, its wings grew out, and it had feet too.
It had completely become a flower, a flower with orange petals and a blue pistil, its shape like a colorful-winged bird of paradise soaring with spread wings; people called it - the bird of paradise flower.
On this day, it could not help asking itself again: "Do you still have a flaw?"
"Yes, I yearn for freedom!" it then continued: "But it does not matter! Beautiful things always have flaws! Accept the flaw; in fact, why pay attention to the flaw? The happiness we possess in life is already enough for us to cherish well." It told itself so.
The flower language of Strelitzia
The flower language and symbolic meaning of Strelitzia: passionate love, embracing each other, happiness and joy
Strelitzia, also known as the flower of the bird of paradise and the flower of the paradise bird, from this poetic name one can easily imagine its nobility and elegance. Strelitzia is native to South Africa and was introduced to the UK in 1973; the British were attracted at first sight by its dignified, generous, gorgeous yet charming bearing, and called it an indescribable flower. Strelitzia is also a rare and precious flower in China; its flowers are extremely delicate and gorgeous, with the stamens sky blue, the calyx surrounding the stamens a brilliant orange-yellow, and the bract supporting the base edged in purple on a blue-green ground. The whole flower shape blooms amid the rich, upright green leaves, much like a crane raising its head and gazing into the distance.
The flower language of Strelitzia is for lovers deeply in love. Strelitzia belongs to the genus Strelitzia in the family Strelitziaceae, with the scientific name Strelitzia reginae. Strelitzia is also called the bird of paradise flower and the flower of the paradise bird; its flower language is passionate love and embracing each other, blessing those in love with happiness and joy. The flower shape of Strelitzia is like a crane standing alone, raising its head and gazing into the distance, with a graceful posture and colors neither garish nor delicate, elegant and generous. Strelitzia was originally an animal that loved freedom; because its flower shape resembles a crane, Strelitzia symbolizes people's yearning for freedom and happiness. Strelitzia is a precious fresh cut flower; not only is its flower shape peculiar and wonderful, but its flowering period is also very long, reaching as long as two months. Whether placed in a vase in water or used as cut flower material, it is a fine grade.
1. Freedom, happiness, unrestrained ease, a boy dressed up for love
2. No matter when, no matter where, never forget that the person you love is waiting for you. 3. A bird that can fly to paradise, able to bring all kinds of emotions and longing to paradise. 4. Friendship. 5. Give you all happiness. 6. Passionate love, embracing each other, blessing those in love with happiness and joy, the flower language of lovers deeply in love, the soul bestowed on every kind of flower. That is people's wishes or blessings. Bird of paradise - the bird from paradise; there are many versions of its flower language. Some say it is a flower representing bitter love. I once read a novel in which two lovers who loved each other could not be together forever, so after death one became a bird, crying and flying in the sky; the other became a bird of paradise on the ground, still unable to be together, only gazing at each other from afar. Perhaps this is its truest flower language as the bird of paradise. "Flying wing to wing with the one you love" is another flower language; from the heart I truly hope this is its only flower language. It is not because I like it that I hope it has a good flower language, but simply because I feel that often beauty is accompanied by a poignant beauty, and perfection always comes at a price. The meeting of the beautiful and the beautiful is a rare luxury. In fact, no matter how many flower languages there are and what the implied meaning is, its most genuine intent lies in the heart of the person holding the flower; with what mood it is given, with what mood it is received - at the instant of that transmission, its language is truly genuine. There is also another flower language: "a man dressed up beautifully for love." Because no matter how little a man usually cares about appearances, once he falls in love, he will have a mood like flying in paradise, and will dress up beautifully!
Strelitzia pictures