What to do when Photinia × fraseri leaves turn yellow? Two methods to make the leaves redder and the new leaves more numerous

We know that Photinia × fraseri leaves are fiery red in spring and bright green in summer, but if you do not understand how to grow Photinia × fraseri, you may well never see this beautiful sight, and it may even cause the leaves to turn yellow. So what should you do when Photinia × fraseri leaves turn yellow? The editor will tell you the causes and the solutions.

What to do when Photinia × fraseri leaves turn yellow

1. Caused by waterlogging

Although Photinia × fraseri likes a moist environment, if the roots are soaked in water for a long time, the roots will rot, which will prevent Photinia × fraseri from absorbing nutrients and air, and as a result some leaves will turn yellow and wither.

Solution: Dig ditches to drain the water, and avoid water accumulating and being unable to drain away quickly during the rainy season or when too much water is given. Keep the environment fairly well ventilated, which can help the water evaporate. Be sure to control the amount of water when watering normally.

2. Direct sunlight

Photinia × fraseri likes sun, but if it is placed in the sun to bake during summer when the sunlight is too abundant, the leaves will turn yellow. So what should you do then when Photinia × fraseri leaves turn yellow? The method is as follows.

Solution: When the sunlight is too strong, you should shade Photinia × fraseri appropriately, and especially when propagating it by Photinia × fraseri cuttings, you need 40% shading to prevent the overly strong light from scorching the Photinia × fraseri leaves yellow and making them wilt.

How to make Photinia × fraseri leaves redder

The young leaves of Photinia × fraseri begin to sprout in February, and by late spring the leaf color turns dark red. Then in summer the old leaves turn bright green, and when autumn arrives in September the autumn leaves sprout again, and at this time the color turns bright red again. So we can see that its leaf color is related to the sprouting of young leaves.

1. Cut off old branches and leaves

Cutting off the old branches and leaves helps Photinia × fraseri sprout young leaves, and at the same time avoids the loss of nutrients, which has a very good promoting effect on the growth of young leaves.

2. Increase light

After the young leaves sprout in February, as the sunlight gradually strengthens, their color will turn dark red. So if you want the leaves to be redder, appropriately increasing light is one method, but note that the light must not be too strong.

3. Fertilize more

The sprouting of young leaves in Photinia × fraseri depends not only on pruning but also on whether the nutrients are sufficient, and to ensure sufficient nutrients, fertilizing is very important. It can not only improve the problem of what to do when Photinia × fraseri leaves turn yellow, but also sprout more young leaves, thus making the leaves look redder.

Complete Handbook of Flower Planting

Flower Planting Handbook

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Handbook (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy into the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue the cold protection and insulation work for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Sinningia speciosa, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, Centaurea cyanus, Gaillardia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Petunia, Eschscholzia californica, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, Antirrhinum, Tropaeolum, Viola tricolor, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open at the end of February include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Trachycarpus, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tubers of Polianthes tuberosa and bulbs of Hippeastrum can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture in February include: Prunus mume (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia indica, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, Punica granatum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (Hypericum), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus, Lespedeza, etc. Branches of Syringa and Campsis that have been sand-stored can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus, Vitis, Ficus carica, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Saintpaulia (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with plastic film for insulation and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate Prunus cerasifera, Prunus mume, Prunus persica, peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate superior cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti'; by adopting bagging and inflation measures to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock-scion, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for the scions of superior rose cultivars; by adopting the measures of grafting first, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, the grafting survival rate can be greatly increased.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia denudata, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Acer palmatum, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Bromeliaceae, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, Chlorophytum, Kalanchoe, Canna, Maranta, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of Nandina domestica, Ilex, Ardisia crenata, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc. can be picked, processed and then sand-stored to promote germination, and sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking the various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus, Antirrhinum, Alcea rosea, silver-edged holly, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be planted out. Among them, deciduous types such as Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Malus, Ginkgo biloba, Liquidambar formosana, Acer, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume (carried out before budding and leafing), Magnolia, Sapindus, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus, Prunus cerasifera, Cerasus serrulata, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, Prunus persica, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (Hypericum), Salix babylonica, Salix alba var. vitellina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, Diospyros kaki, Armeniaca vulgaris, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, Fraxinus chinensis, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; for Osmanthus fragrans, Ligustrum, Sabina komarovii, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Pinus thunbergii, etc., moderate pruning should be given when planting.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold, and potted ornamental plants, after two continuous months of indoor (tunnel) maintenance, have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so you should continue to carefully do the moisture retention and cold protection work. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if grass curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang the grass curtains; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, you must not take it lightly.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange, especially by the end of February, when the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, and Hawaiian snow bush, etc., in particularly cold weather, you can add plastic bags over them at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on heating appliances such as a "bath heater" to raise the temperature, ensuring that they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist and allow them to overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so the demand for water is small. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is extremely easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves will lose green and color, and flower buds will stop growing; in severe cases the leaves will shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds will shrink and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor and tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Kalanchoe, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Calamondin, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits, so that the leaves can be emerald green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. In particular, for tree peonies, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium grandiflorum purchased after being cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if its leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves will often shrink and dry up. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    In February, although the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened, and especially when the temperature continues to rise for several days in a row, supplemental watering and spraying should be done promptly.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be replenished promptly, and especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given around noon on clear days to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting the recovery of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, you can continue to bury base fertilizer for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. The fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. A ring-shaped trench can be dug around the outer perimeter of the plant's root system, applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Prunus mume, Narcissus, Hyacinthus, Tulipa, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Aechmea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., you can continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate as a top dressing to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, etc., because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, only 2 to 3 buds are retained at the base, and all the rest are cut off, to promote the production of many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Serissa japonica, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas revoluta, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Kalanchoe, Hippeastrum, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, Citrus medica, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted Pericallis hybrida in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on Primula leaves, etc., at the early stage of the disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray, once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and corollas of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plants is difficult to absorb and, on the contrary, is likely to breed mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases will form unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers (such as Citrus aurantium and kumquat) in greenhouses, when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After the aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, the sooty mold will also be eliminated along with them.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, and black brown round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or killed by spraying 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under the flowers and trees, and the insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun, and after it is fully dried, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be spread in flowerpots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium grandiflorum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than watering with liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning over and freezing the soil. In early February, you can continue to turn over garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing the soil clods, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus formosana, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora, Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If the plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Handbook (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo biloba, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia denudata, Michelia, Magnolia × soulangeana, Chaenomeles, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum, Diospyros kaki, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, Prunus mume, Rosa, Ficus carica, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, tree peony, Punica granatum, Wisteria, Cerasus serrulata, Vitis, Prunus persica, Nandina, Acer palmatum, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Phoenix canariensis, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shaded and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species adapted to shaded and damp conditions, such as Trachycarpus, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina komarovii, Cedrus deodara, Chimonanthus praecox, Musa basjoo, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness and moisture conditions in your courtyard, the following points should be noted when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees: first, the minimum temperature that the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting to the environment; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that can cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose large-specification plants that grow relatively slowly but have basically taken shape, so that greening and beautification effects can be achieved early; for example, Ginkgo biloba, Japanese fir, Osmanthus fragrans, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. should be no less than 2 m in height; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flower and groundcover plant species suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, Antirrhinum, Brassica oleracea, Viola tricolor, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Alcea rosea, Impatiens, Lupinus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Papaver rhoeas, Zephyranthes candida, Dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flower and groundcover plant species that are relatively shade-tolerant include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, Iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species that require relatively meticulous management, such as Prunus mume, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria heterophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Roystonea regia, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, Bromeliaceae, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum (commonly known as peace tree), Zantedeschia, Primula, Cymbidium grandiflorum, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Syngonium, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, Tulipa, Hyacinthus, Calceolaria, Caryota, Dypsis lutescens, Mascarena lagenicaulis, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some types that require relatively extensive management, such as Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, Rhapis excelsa, Chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, Cactaceae, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, Euphorbia, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Acer palmatum, Liriodendron. For the latter five, the seeds all need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand storage to promote germination include: Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona, Magnolia denudata, Michelia, Osmanthus fragrans, Aesculus, Nandina domestica, Ilex, Punica granatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, ornamental pepper, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Primula obconica, Malva, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Ficus carica, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha, etc. Cold-sensitive flowers should be propagated by cuttings in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora 'Obusa', etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia × soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Prunus mume, peach, Prunus persica, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scion branches of superior Chimonanthus praecox cultivars and carry out cut grafting with bagging to retain moisture, resulting in a relatively high survival rate; using Hylocereus undatus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably carried out in tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, Cerasus serrulata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Acer palmatum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum, Gardenia, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia denudata, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchids, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas revoluta, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna grandiflora, Alpinia zerumbet, Dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia × soulangeana, Liriodendron, Acer palmatum, etc. should be arranged as far as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when evergreen flowers and trees are transplanted, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; transplanting of Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus, Prunus persica, Prunus cerasifera, Cerasus serrulata, etc. is all right even after budding, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a good and sufficient soil ball should be taken; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, pest- and disease-infested branches, and excessively vigorous flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, which is beneficial for flowering the next year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering you can prune off branches that ruin the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as Rosa, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Vitis, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leaf expansion, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, Antirrhinum, Calendula officinalis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Malva, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, Iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as Brassica oleracea, Viola tricolor, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Pinus parviflora, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they bud and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, laying a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Rosa, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas revoluta, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium, Syngonium, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal importance. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves sometimes move south, in the first and middle ten days of March you still need to continue the heat preservation and cold protection work; in the last ten days of March, you can open the doors and windows of the room during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and close them at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Ficus elastica, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding the impact of premature sprouting on that year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Caryota, Dypsis lutescens, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and begonias, in conjunction with repotting, carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off pest- and disease-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches and some yellowed leaves, etc. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma, Syzygium buxifolium, etc., which are mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before budding to further improve their shape. For Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa, Prunus persica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, etc., strong renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for everyone to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some ornamental plants with relatively strong resistance on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for growing on balconies include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick with relatively abundant sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas revoluta, Cactaceae (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus, Crassula, Echinocactus grusonii, Carnegiea gigantea, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Pereskia, Kalanchoe, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, Jasminum nudiflorum, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, so they are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potting (especially on high-floor balconies), such as Punica granatum, Rosa, Ficus microcarpa, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, peach, Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Pinus parviflora, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Camellia japonica, Schefflera, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Tagetes erecta, Impatiens, Petunia, etc., can be sown and raised as seedlings in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia seeds is collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be propagated by cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings at a relatively good light location by an indoor windowsill: Gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Rosa pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth should be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Pinus parviflora, Prunus mume, peach, Acer palmatum, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out, otherwise it is not easy for them to survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause the plants to die. You can take measures such as building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate spraying. For Prunus mume, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus praecox, peach, Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases, and destroy them; for dry and withered cut surfaces on stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, you can also build a small water pool on the balcony, support a hard board on top (prefabricated with cement and steel bars), and use the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively like air humidity on it, such as orchids, Monstera, Philodendron, Syngonium, Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once the potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shading measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare the potting soil for repotting, and prepare enough various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Handbook (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow in the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and the Yellow River are there still hazards of snow and frost. By after Guyu, areas south of the Jianghuai have ended late frost, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, the flower tasks are as follows:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome hassleriana, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia argentea, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens, Ipomoea, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit pennata, Nicotiana tabacum, Petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis, Coreopsis tinctoria, Tagetes erecta, red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Abutilon, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum basilicum, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrical, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia chingii, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron, Liriodendron hybrid, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, Sciadopitys verticillata, Araucaria heterophylla, Pseudolarix amabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus, Liquidambar formosana, Acer, Ormosia hosiei, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus, etc.

Other greening flowers and trees of the species include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch (Pseudolarix), crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow tree, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, Ormosia henryi, wintersweet, summer sweet, white pearl bush, goji berry, heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, palm, and others.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after collecting in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit. Among them, Japanese fatsia can have its already blackened, whitish, and softened fruits picked at the end of April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them in fertile seedbeds, or first stratify the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, covering with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, promptly remove the covering grass and build a shade frame; for cultivating nipplefruit, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will sprout and emerge, and when the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit viewing or field-planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Chinese pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered black locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, cast iron plant, ferns, bamboo palm, spider plant, agave, silver king dieffenbachia, dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen, calathea, aloe, peperomia, monstera, bird's nest fern, and more. (The source text is corrupted here.) Ornamental plants that can be propagated by division include: gardenia, Wuchang maple, hibiscus, geranium, aster, cattleya, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, hibiscus, and more. Ornamental plants that can be divided include: large-flowered iris, flower iris, beauty banana, etc. Also, water lily and water bamboo can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cutting

For most easily rooted flowering tree species, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, tulip tree, bridal wreath spiraea, edgeworthia, and flowering quince.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if when repotting not too much old soil is broken away and the root system is not excessively pruned, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting open-ground flowering trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen flowering trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with soil balls in April; for evergreen flowering trees such as camphor, southern magnolia, michelia, and white orchid, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce the transpiration of the canopy; for deciduous flowering trees, it is best to transplant before their leaves unfold, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, and apricot; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted tree, so that under the condition of not destroying the soil ball, the transplanted tree can be free from worries.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, green cypress, snow-in-summer, water poplar, true cypress, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, velvety cypress, flowering cypress, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, edgeworthia, ginkgo, black pine, and Chinese juniper. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red phoebe, Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, galwood, golden bullet tree, weeping crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, elaeagnus, horned holly, golden larch, and tiger thorn.

As the bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal or non-metal wire to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the maintenance of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: first, timely bud removal; when the winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male cones; when needle fascicle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on the new shoots, promptly remove all female cones at the top of the new shoots and male cones at the base of the new shoots to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the beginning of new shoot elongation, strictly control watering, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered, keeping the branches flat and in good condition.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, forsythia, daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, spring orchid, cymbidium, Chinese cymbidium, phaius, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after warm spring, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer solution, to promote their growth; for potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jian orchid, hibiscus, and white orchid, also apply topdressing, which can be potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc., with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For field-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, michelia, plum, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, timely topdressing should also be applied to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up the money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, 7 into a braid; after braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; the money tree has extremely strong vitality, and even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-Viewing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering trees that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, and weeping crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, pay attention to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can normally set fruit, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except for those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for their callusing and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China, and after each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably; there is much continuous spring rain, and after the spring rain ends at Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May at the turn of spring and summer is a key period for planting and cultivating flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees that can be sown immediately after collecting in May mainly include: four-season primrose, Japanese fatsia, broadleaf mahonia, and loquat. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry; second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in seedbed moisture causing seeds to "regress"; third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly build a shade frame to avoid scorching the seedlings.

Osmanthus can have its mature blue-black fruits picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip appears can they be sown in the ground. During storage, pay attention to preventing rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cutting

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, rhaphidophora, orchid cactus, jade plant, gem flower, mountain magnolia, flowering quince, umbrella plant, lantana, red-backed eupatorium, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, bleeding heart vine, Chinese evergreen, cordyline, pothos, schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedling or cutting stock to graft and propagate white orchid and michelia; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedling rootstock for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and cloak maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old cutting seedlings for cleft grafting to propagate Western rhododendron; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock; softwood grafting of superior varieties of wintersweet, or potted rootstock can be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular stem can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, aglaia, Western rhododendron, camellia, croton, michelia, and red maple; flowering trees that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, and trumpet creeper.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for National Day street decoration, most species must be potted and planted in May, and after 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on time by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, and begonia.

    2. Transplanting

From late April to early May, when white magnolia is transplanted after flowering and just before sprouting and leafing out, the survival rate is highest. Some flowering trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with soil balls in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spraying water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water tank or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum, rhododendron, azalea, gardenia, daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage plants include: sago palm, bird's nest fern, monstera, bamboo palm, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, arrowhead plant, calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian wood, money tree, schefflera, etc.; fruit-viewing plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, and ardisia.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For the pruning of white orchid that has just been moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water and dries out, extending downward. For this reason, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose pruning after flowering, moderately lower by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes in the middle of the branch can develop flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, also pay attention to the position of bud removal, generally 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud position, otherwise the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under shade frames or tree shade, such as: monstera, bamboo palm, calathea, bird's nest fern, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink taro, fan palm, arrowhead plant, orchids, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowering trees, sufficient light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, plum pine, trident maple, water poplar, oak, snow-in-summer, black pine, and soft pine require sufficient light; while podocarpus, tiger thorn, red phoebe, green cypress, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum, aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc.: after flowering, remove residual flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as supplement, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for re-forming flower buds; for foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, monstera, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, bird's nest fern, cast iron plant, and ferns, apply fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as gold-edged snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-hearted Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly arrowhead plant, and pink taro, spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution as foliar topdressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose, pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease, and for leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them; for leaf-eating pests commonly appearing on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, and rue???citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, snow-in-summer, green cypress, water poplar, galwood, and ginkgo. It is worth noting that when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, trying not to damage the bark and skeleton of the branches, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant and most bonsai, maintenance should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, disrupting shaping or affecting normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad, loquat, and wintersweet. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination; after about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, and at this time sow in furrows; the soil covering thickness is generally 2 to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages, and promptly build a shade frame.

    2. Cutting

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowering trees. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cutting in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, michelia, horned holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, flowering quince, snowball, viburnum, coral tree, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian rhododendron, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, and bald cypress; the other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, snow-in-summer, pomegranate, hibiscus, golden, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, trumpet creeper, red-backed eupatorium, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, ardisia, edgeworthia, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, weigela, snowball, peach-leaf aucuba, schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, bridal wreath spiraea, hydrangea, and poinsettia. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, marigold, and sulfur cosmos.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the softwood of osmanthus and camellia is semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cutting is the current year's new shoot, 10 to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip, the lower cut end dipped in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution for 10 seconds, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the seedbed; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm; after watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%; generally after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

For grafting, use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior varieties of wintersweet; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid and michelia. For bud grafting, use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry, plum, and elm-leaved spirea; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. For branch grafting, use oil tea, red-flowered oil tea, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock to branch-graft camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian rhododendron or Western rhododendron.

    4. Layering

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, viburnum, weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, and white orchid.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed dieffenbachia, bromeliads, haworthia, cast iron plant, spider plant, acorus, and gold-edged lilyturf.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, and amaryllis (sow immediately after collecting).

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: after collecting wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not permit, the released seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate; peach and apricot should be sown immediately after collecting, or their seeds stored in sand until they crack and germinate before field sowing; osmanthus seeds collected in June, after removing the fleshy fruit skin and washing clean, stored in moist sand to promote embryo after-ripening, and when they germinate, select nursery land for sowing.

    2. Transplanting and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, impatiens, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and red-green grass.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, broadleaf mahonia, mahonia, hypericum, gardenia, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with soil balls is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know," but after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    In June, watering potted flowers should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 AM or 5 PM, generally once a day is sufficient; second, watering temperature, keep the irrigation water and pot soil temperature basically consistent; if the water temperature and soil temperature differ too much, it will cause stimulation to the root system and leaves of potted flowers, thereby affecting their growth; third, combine watering and spraying; when there are several days without rain, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase local spatial humidity; if there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray based on the dryness and wetness of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc., when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and keep the pot soil moist; deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, lycoris (types), ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, surviving the summer in a dormant state in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots; watering must be stopped for them, move to a cool place, and keep the pot soil not excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, to avoid causing root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species, such as monstera, spider plant, arrowhead plant, calathea, sword fern, bird's nest fern, sago palm, cast iron plant, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-backed eupatorium, bamboo palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum, camellia, sasanqua, daphne, rhododendron, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for species currently blooming, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their growth and flowering and fruiting needs.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent flower species, such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, candle plant, squirrel tail, Lampranthus spectabilis, stapelia, and sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, stop fertilization to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, plum pine, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true cypress, green cypress, water poplar, Chinese juniper, horned holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, and firethorn, prune or cut back branches that affect shaping as early as possible, which can keep the plant clearly layered and in good shape, and can promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and Chinese rose, promptly remove residual flowers and withered stems, and appropriately cut back the branches that have flowered, to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees such as white orchid, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum, and crabapple, in order to promote good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowering, and better flowers in the current or next year, pinch and remove buds on overly vigorous branches, inhibit the growth of main and lateral shoots, and promote lateral bud germination.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under shade frames to prevent damage to the plants from intense sunlight. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, bamboo palm, rubber tree, ferns, philodendron, arrowhead plant, pink taro, bird's nest fern, pothos, peperomia, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, daphne, cast iron plant, and spider plant. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, snow-in-summer, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach, plum, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, plum pine, horned holly, wintergreen, water poplar, oak, black pine, Japanese black pine, white orchid, aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, and grape; podocarpus, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo palm, five-needle pine, and bamboo-leaf podocarpus can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, green cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, and crabapple are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and should be controlled promptly by using poison sticks to block them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum, and wintersweet are susceptible to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, and Buddha's hand have tender leaves susceptible to feeding by citrus swallowtail larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants that were potted and hardened in early spring or field-planted. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, elaeagnus, Huashan pine, green cypress, Chinese juniper, horned holly, wintergreen, goji, five-needle pine, weeping crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum, ornamental peach, trident maple, snow-in-summer, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water poplar, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, and firethorn. June shaping must be careful, wiring slowly and gently, and one must not be too impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather in the Yangtze-Huai region ends. On July 16, the dog days begin, and on August 15, the dog days end, and most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in the regions south of the Yangtze-Huai, it is 28°C; only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, four-season primrose, ornamental kale, and campanula. When sowing, pay attention to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaved spirea can also be picked; after washing off the flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack before sowing; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collecting, or the seeds released from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cutting
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: scutellaria, begonia, coleus, clear water flower, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, creeping fig, coral flower, peperomia, rhaphidophora, Chinese knotweed, kalanchoe, and pothos.
    Woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-backed eupatorium, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, hypericum, golden-flowered hypericum, weigela, hydrangea, weigela, snowball, bridal wreath spiraea, daphne, gardenia, edgeworthia, mountain magnolia, bougainvillea, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, snow-in-summer, michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, viburnum, Tianmu viburnum, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, and golden willow. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, water cutting can also be used to propagate some flowering trees. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, and hibiscus. To use water cutting to propagate flowering trees, first, prepare a thick foam plastic board of 1 to 2 cm, perforated for use as cutting fixing material; second, keep the water quality clean for cutting, and put in a few pieces of charcoal for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old mountain peach or peach seedling rootstocks can be used for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum, elm-leaved spirea, purple-leaf plum, and beauty plum; use cutting seedlings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, and rugosa roses; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate white orchid and michelia; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the softwood side grafting with bagging moisture retention method, grafting at 3 to 4 cm from the ground, and after 7 to 10 days, whether it has survived can be determined; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among red azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian rhododendron or Western rhododendron; use cherry seedling rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of cherry blossom; use current-year seedling rootstocks of Manchurian crabapple, Hubei crabapple, weeping crabapple, or crabapple for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; use chicken-claw maple seedlings as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, viburnum, oleander, weigela, golden-flowered broom, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing Chinese rose, and winter jasmine.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, acorus, umbrella plant, cast iron plant, purple-backed dieffenbachia, bromeliads, haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf, liriope, autumn zephyr lily, sword fern, iris, and inch plant. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, snake's eye chrysanthemum, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, and Lampranthus spectabilis.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaved spirea.
    2. Transplanting and Potting
    July is the main period for potting up herbaceous flowers for National Day display. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings or cuttings; after 3 months of careful cultivation, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as leatherleaf mahonia, St. John's wort, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Japanese aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames should be built in time, and the frequency of water spraying should be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be returned to normal management; do not be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as red woodsorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio macroglossus, winter daphne, Christmas cactus, purslane tree, aloe, etc., should be watered less because the temperature is too high, their growth activity has basically stopped, and their metabolic level is very low. Keep the potting soil moist, and pay attention to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
Flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, show withered stems and leaves above ground in July, while the underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they spend the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should simply be kept not too dry.
For flower species that grow vigorously, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, cast-iron plant, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', pink-striped arrowhead, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Japanese aucuba, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but appropriate leaf-surface spraying should also be given, combining watering and spraying. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given; do not be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second flush of new shoots produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest; flower buds can still differentiate in the axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. Watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulates in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilizer management should be strengthened. The first is types with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, and jasmine; the second is types that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose; the third is types for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, and rhododendron; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, and rubber tree. As for fertilizer types, for the first three categories, in addition to applying necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilizing method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, shrimp plant, shrimp flower, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four-o'clock, dragon's mouth flower, and so on. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, begonias, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, and so on. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, and so on.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant states, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as sedums, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus, and Stapelia, for which fertilization must be stopped to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pinched and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young shoot tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, Pyracantha, Podocarpus, tamarisk, Elaeagnus, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa, orange jasmine, and so on. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of a new shoot to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant types suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient for finger pinching, such as junipers, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Ilex pernyi, and shimpaku.
For potted flower types that continue blooming over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus spicatus, faded flowers and withered stalks should be removed promptly, and necessary shortening pruning should be given to branches that have already bloomed, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, and so on, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that like shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage from scorching sun. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, pink-striped arrowhead, pothos, pepperomia, cast-iron plant, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea, Reineckea carnea, and so on.
For light-loving types, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, Pyracantha, jasmine, Serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, oak, Pinus thunbergii 'Dwarf', Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, and so on. For Podocarpus, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Damnacanthus, Asparagus setaceus, bamboo palm, and five-needle pine, it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high and the air is relatively dry this month, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower types with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or leaf surfaces covered with a thicker cuticle, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, wax mallow, Chinese fan palm, palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, cast-iron plant, Japanese aucuba, and so on, while it is not advisable to choose Boston fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, and so on. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents to prevent direct wind from blowing on the plants and causing leaf tips to wither and margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected with anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, causes the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach, crabapple, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and elm-leaved spirea, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poisonous plugs, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood webworm that harms boxleaf euonymus, Japanese boxwood, sharp-leaf boxwood, and pearl boxwood. When this pest occurs severely, it can eat all the leaves bare. Once found, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, the pesticide type can be changed.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the wax insect that harms privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum sinense, and Fraxinus chinensis, late July to late August is its emergence period. The timing should be chosen correctly to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf euonymus, plane tree, pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, and cedar. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai Shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a vigorous growth period, damaged branches are prone to infection by pathogens and difficult to heal and recover, so most tree stump types are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. The plant types that can still be shaped are those with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they are required to be plants potted in spring for hardening off or grown in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus, false arborvitae, Calocedrus, Serissa, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Adina rubella, and so on.
    In July, plant shaping should be done carefully and meticulously, with gentle and slow wiring and gradual force; do not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second-highest hot, dry period of the year after July. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or heat-tolerant types. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Dwarf', five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, armand pine, Podocarpus, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, weeping fig, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana, tiger's claw (coral tree), Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, palm bamboo, money tree, Schefflera, frangipani, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, Chinese fan palm, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, bamboo begonia, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, cupflower, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, and so on. In addition, there are cast-iron plant, Guangdong evergreen, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, silver-veined aglaonema, and so on.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, summersweet clethra, American summersweet clethra, Podocarpus, and so on. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, and then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. After pomegranate for fruit viewing matures and cracks, harvest it, rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, Liatris, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, and so on. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, fairy primrose, coleus, pot marigold, and so on.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, carry out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings to propagate the following flower and tree types: Pyracantha, Mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, Chinese snowball viburnum, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Osmanthus, Podocarpus, Schefflera species, Cordyline, bigleaf hydrangea, purple magnolia, and so on. Using yellow subsoil or sandy loam as the substrate, cuttings can be taken of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa, spirea, snow spray, gardenia, and so on. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use fringe tree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedling peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering cherry, and elm-leaved spirea; use cherry seedling as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose and pink cluster rose as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use Malus baccata, Chinese pearleaf crabapple, and Hupeh crabapple seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Midget crabapple and Hall crabapple; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, split grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, Banksian rose, climbing Chinese rose, weigela, bigleaf hydrangea, Chinese snowball viburnum, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Podocarpus, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), and so on.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Syngonium 'Pixie', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Solomon's seal, cast-iron plant, umbrella plant, Cephalanthus, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular wood sorrel, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch aster, fine-leaf sweet flag, Boston fern, silver-veined aglaonema, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, and so on. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, and so on can also be divided and planted as small bulbs this month.
Management of Flowers Planted in Courtyard Ground
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, strengthened management of shading, watering, and spraying after transplanting can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged compact oriental arborvitae, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, St. John's wort, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus, banana shrub, Chinese juniper ball, Sabina chinensis ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Japanese aucuba, French holly, and so on. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, and so on, and they can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, courtyard hedges such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted balls, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry, Pyracantha, pittosporum, holly fern, and holly, must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, and Lantana, faded flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be moderately shortened. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, cupflower, and marigold, tip pinching and bud pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are tied with straw ropes, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulates at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edged (golden-hearted) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, croton, red mulberry, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, shell ginger, and so on, in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, and Lantana, as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn anemone, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly by watering. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, and wintersweet, which are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed by leaf-surface topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on cedar, privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, and camellia, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger moth, aphids, and so on occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that chew Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower types whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, Podocarpus, and summersweet clethra. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, and snow-in-summer.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant types that like acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also cannot be sprinkled with water, because dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and inject water into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to compact. For flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, just maintaining the potting soil slightly moist, and create a relatively cool and moist environment for them by spraying water around the flower pots.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, cast-iron plant, rubber tree, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, palm bamboo, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, Boston fern, Dracaena, Fagraea fragrans (African jasmine), cinnamon (peace wood), Zamioculcas (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, pink-striped arrowhead, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, parlour palm, croton, Japanese fatsia, and so on, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For long-flowering types, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, and Lantana, as well as fruit-viewing bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Diospyros armata, fruit pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree types in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, and rhododendron, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, so as to avoid leaf rot. For safety, spray the leaves once promptly after fertilizing to wash off fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant types in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, winter daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, purslane tree, Christmas cactus, sedums, purple triangular wood sorrel, cacti, and cactus balls, stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For ornamental plant types that like cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Syngonium 'Pixie', rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, palm bamboo, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchids, pink-striped arrowhead, pepperomia, bromeliads, Cephalanthus, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, Phoenix bamboo, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, parlour palm, Fittonia, purple velvet plant, Ludisia discolor, silver-veined aglaonema, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant, Asparagus setaceus, purple hosta, and so on, continued shade-frame shading can be given, pulling on shade netting at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue pinching or pruning tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, and so on, shorten-prune after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud stripping and bud removal. 5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leafminers, and stem borers.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Dwarf', five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adina rubella, holly fern, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Podocarpus, and so on. In August, part of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, sago palm, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, Queen palm, Syngonium 'Pixie', Monstera deliciosa, cast-iron plant, pothos, palm bamboo, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, shrimp plant, Brazilian wood, Japanese fatsia, and so on.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to carry out moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant types that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, bamboo begonia, gardenia, shrimp plant, coral flower, fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver-veined aglaonema, camellia, sasanqua, banana shrub, and so on; they should be moved indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, fig, Cordyline, frangipani, geranium, Guangdong evergreen, fuchsia, and so on.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and prudently. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand pool, put 10 cm of wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, cast-iron plant, Syngonium 'Pixie', camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, and so on. Usually spray water instead of watering, which is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium, tiger orchid, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, and so on, they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, spraying water instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower types placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Dwarf', wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, and sago palm, water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea solution, or broadcast multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowers and trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, Pyracantha, finger citron, and kumquat, continue applying quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, holly fern, holly, Podocarpus, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, and boxleaf euonymus, after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, plum blossom, and trident maple, soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be placed over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Serissa, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf euonymus, and Pyracantha, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For faded flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and 25% Tetradifon wettable powder at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution is suitable for spraying to kill them.

Flower Planting Handbook (September Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among them, woody ornamental plant types include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus, Buddhist pine, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian iron, Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, weeping fig, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, palm bamboo, frangipani, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, Queen palm, Cordyline, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, sago palm, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia (Clusiaceae), Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, Dracaena, and nandina. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, bamboo begonia, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, and so on.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower types that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summersweet clethra, Canary Island date palm, and so on. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows; when sowing, the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, with plastic film or rice straw added for moisture retention. Summersweet clethra seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except that summersweet clethra can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other types must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower types that can be sown include: hollyhock, carnation, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, and so on. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, and Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree types that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha, Mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela floribunda, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, fuchsia, Chinese snowball viburnum, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, golden-vein shrimp plant, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, and so on. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, St. John's wort, spirea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snow spray, bigleaf hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and cold chrysanthemum.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root segments as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use peach, apricot, and other seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate elm-leaved spirea, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, and so on; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and bag-covered moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple, laceleaf maple, and so on; use white magnolia seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia and Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft kumquat and so on; use fringe tree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree types that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, bigleaf hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Chinese snowball viburnum, snow spray, spirea, and so on.
5. Division. Ornamental plant types that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen, purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, snake plant, Syngonium 'Pixie', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', silver-veined aglaonema, Boston fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, cast-iron plant, and big-leaf dwarf lilyturf. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, and Spanish bluebell can also have their bulblets divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Flowers Planted in Courtyard Ground
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flowers and trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of good soil balls. Types such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, St. John's wort, French holly, red-flowered loropetalum, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, and so on. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthened watering, spraying, and shading management to ensure that transplanting is absolutely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Types include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, and so on.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning courtyard hedges and ball-type ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of balls in the growing season this year in northern regions. Courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged compact oriental arborvitae, and so on. Ball-type ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, holly fern, holly, Photinia, pittosporum, Pyracantha, Forsythia, and so on. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tip-pinched and bud-pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, French marigold, and so on. It is suitable to pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and more inflorescences on lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue blooming over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana, and bougainvillea, promptly cut off faded flowers and withered stalks, and moderately shorten branches that have already bloomed, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job in watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to maintain soil moisture, but no water accumulation; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the crown to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water for moisture retention.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, shell ginger, croton, gold-dusted Japanese aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, and red-leaf peach, in order to keep the leaf color fresh and bright at all times, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming continuously or are for autumn flower and fruit viewing, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season tangerine, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana, nandina, Pyracantha, Ardisia crenata, and kumquat, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is suitable to apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and golden osmanthus that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming crape myrtle, Pyracantha, crabapple, and other flowers and trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert poisonous plugs at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, apply 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution in the early stage of the disease for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flowers and trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, white spiraea, yew, and shiny-leaf wintersweet. Seeds of Magnoliaceae, as well as yew, horse chestnut, and crabapple species, after treatment, must all be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground only after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, and China aster. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate leaf-surface spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by leaf-surface spraying. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant types that like acidic environments, a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower types that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. In September, most flowers are in a period of vigorous growth. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually cools, so great attention should be paid to fertilizer management this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), fishtail palm (Caryota), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), red (green) gem (Dieffenbachia), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with an especially long flowering period or peak bloom in autumn, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Lantana camara, five-color lantana (Lantana camara), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), osmanthus varieties blooming in all four seasons, daily-fragrance osmanthus, sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), etc.; for fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), papaya (Chaenomeles), golden bullet tree (Diospyros cathayensis), beautyberry (Callicarpa), fruiting pomegranate, etc.; and for colorful-foliage plants such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), spotted laurel (Aucuba japonica), bromeliads, variegated banyan (Ficus), golden-edged Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Cordyline fruticosa, coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides), etc., top-dress with fertilizers balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For Fuchsia, geranium (Pelargonium), calla lily (Zantedeschia), cyclamen (Cyclamen), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Daphne odora, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Sedum species, purslane tree (Portulacaria afra, jade leaf), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), clivia (Clivia miniata), and epiphyllum (Epiphyllum), which are resuming growth, you may resume watering with low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and entered the flower-bud swelling stage, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), banana shrub (Michelia figo), rhododendron (Rhododendron), etc., you may top-dress with low-concentration balanced-nutrition fertilizer types; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, marigold (Tagetes erecta), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), mini sunflower, etc., top-dress with a thin fertilizer every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is still high and the sunlight still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving, cool-preferring foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), kidney fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), orchid grass (Cymbidium), Dieffenbachia, Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Aspidistra elatior, begonia (Begonia), Epipremnum pinnatum, little angel (Philodendron), red (green) gem (Dieffenbachia), crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum), black-leaf alocasia (Alocasia amazonica), Fittonia, red-vein shrimp plant (Justicia), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Schefflera arboricola, variegated brake fern (Pteris), watermelon peperomia (Peperomia argyreia), variegated dumb cane (Dieffenbachia), green giant (Philodendron), anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), staghorn fern (Platycerium), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), Adina pilulifera, king palm (Archontophoenix), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species such as trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), water poplar (Adina rubella), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), firethorn (Pyracantha), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus), etc., full sunlight may be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red machilus (Syzygium buxifolium), ? tree, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), jade tree (Crassula ovata), rhododendron (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), etc., appropriate shading may be given around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and to avoid affecting their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Lantana camara, gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower (Justicia carnea), etc., prune after each flowering; for those stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), plum yew (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), red machilus (Syzygium buxifolium), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), water poplar (Adina rubella), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (stump), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), etc., continue pruning or bud nipping. In addition, money tree (Pachira aquatica) seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple (Malus), longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., you may insert poisonous sticks to block and kill them, or control them by burying furadan granules. For Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), cottony cushion scale (Icerya purchasi), armored scale (Diaspididae), felt scale (Eriococcidae), etc., appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide 1500-fold solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have long been placed on the balcony or potted flowering trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Nishiki pine (Pinus parviflora 'Nishiki'), red pine (Pinus densiflora), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), plum yew (Sageretia thea), water poplar (Adina rubella), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), holly grape (Mahonia), holly (Ilex), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), ornamental fruiting pomegranate, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), agave (Agave), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), prickly elm (Hemiptelea davidii), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha), Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium), Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), black-leaf alocasia (Alocasia amazonica), crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum), anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), clivia (Clivia miniata), fuchsia (Fuchsia), Fittonia, etc.; while for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Monstera deliciosa, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Aspidistra elatior, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm (Caryota), king coconut (Roystonea regia), spotted trunk tree (Ficus), spotted laurel (Aucuba japonica), Schefflera arboricola, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, you can continue to use large-diameter flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and can cut-propagate some ornamental plants, such as gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Cordyline fruticosa, spotted laurel (Aucuba japonica), Schefflera arboricola, daily-fragrance osmanthus, osmanthus blooming in all four seasons, camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), red-backed eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), coral flower (Justicia carnea), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), banana shrub (Michelia figo), silver queen aglaonema (Aglaonema), etc. You can also water-propagate indoors Schefflera arboricola, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), fig (Ficus carica), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Dendrobium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), little angel (Philodendron), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats resting on a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and normally misted instead of watered. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, you should also mist more and water less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, you can continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and be careful that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately water with low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, you may water with a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees mainly grown for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), firethorn (Pyracantha), fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), etc., continue top-dressing with quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower-bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), etc., according to the different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced multi-element compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The types of top-dressing for flowers and trees on the balcony should not carry an off-odor, especially not a foul smell, and when watering, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, you can continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, you can move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, you can continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), plum yew (Sageretia thea), water poplar (Adina rubella), boxwood (Buxus sinica), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus), etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches and yellow leaves, and faded flowers and rotten stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed and killed with 25% Omite wettable powder 1500-fold solution; for the double-striped cedar longhorn beetle (Semanotus bifasciatus) appearing on dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and sabina (Juniperus) bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) appearing on plum blossom, crabapple (Malus), papaya (Chaenomeles), longevity peach, etc., you can continue to insert poisonous sticks or bury furadan for control; for various scale insects harming camellia (Camellia japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500-fold solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which the woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), whitebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), spruce species (Picea), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), bamboo-leaf podocarpus (Nageia nagi), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Dutch iron (Yucca), Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Schefflera arboricola, variegated banyan (Ficus), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), golden larch (Pseudolarix), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), spotted laurel (Aucuba japonica), thick-leaf fig (Ficus), fishtail palm (Caryota), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), king coconut (Roystonea regia), Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), desert rose (Adenium obesum), South American cycad (Zamia), Garcinia subelliptica (Garcinia subelliptica), large Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), red maple (Acer palmatum), silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Luchu tree (Ficus), orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, large-flowered canna (Canna), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia (Begonia), snapdragon (Antirrhinum), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), five-color pepper (Capsicum annuum), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), petunia (Petunia), Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species (Aesculus), summer wintersweet (Calycanthus), rich seed (Ardisia), soapberry (Sapindus), kuding tea (Ilex kudingcha), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), bamboo-leaf podocarpus (Nageia nagi), French holly (Viburnum), Elaeocarpus, beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), yew (Taxus), fan palm (Livistona), privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Weigela, palm (Trachycarpus), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of summer wintersweet and Weigela can be dry-stored until sowing the next spring, the other species can all have their seeds cleaned and then stored in wet sand to promote germination until the next spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sow. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean, the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy and rotten. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), snapdragon (Antirrhinum), Dianthus species, pansy (Viola), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly (Silene), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), daisy (Bellis perennis), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris (Iris), verbena (Verbena), etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium (Tropaeolum), gloxinia (Sinningia), petunia (Petunia), cineraria (Pericallis), four-season primrose (Primula), African daisy (Gerbera), pocketbook plant (Calceolaria) can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cutting. Woody flower species that can be cut-propagated include: red-backed eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), Schefflera arboricola, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Lantana camara, firethorn (Pyracantha), mahonia (Mahonia), fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia, aucuba (Aucuba), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum), osmanthus blooming in all four seasons, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Weigela, snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), spiraea (Spiraea), Hypericum, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander (Nerium oleander), fig (Ficus carica), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting. In addition, for cutting some southern flowering trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be cut-propagated include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), bamboo-node begonia (Begonia), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), clearweed (Pilea), coral flower (Justicia carnea), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-vein shrimp plant (Justicia), cold chrysanthemum, etc. (This part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine (Pinus thunbergii) seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) (including Osaka pine); use peony (Paeonia) roots as rootstock to graft excellent varieties of tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa); use one-year-old trident maple (Acer buergerianum) seedlings as rootstock, bag and retain moisture to graft red maple (Acer palmatum), feather maple (Acer palmatum var. dissectum), etc.; use one-year-old white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft excellent varieties of white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), red-flowered magnolia (Magnolia), etc.; use three-angled cactus (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat (Fortunella margarita).

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be low-layered include: camellia (Camellia japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Weigela, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), weigela (Weigela florida), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), August osmanthus, snowball (Viburnum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Hypericum, French holly (Viburnum), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia), Michelia, spiraea (Spiraea), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be divided include: heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia (Mahonia), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), double-flowered kerria (Kerria japonica), spiraea (Spiraea), spiraea (Spiraea), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be divided include: peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hosta (Hosta), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), Huilan orchid (Cymbidium faberi), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris (Iris), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), silver queen aglaonema (Aglaonema), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), multi-head green emperor (Aglaonema), kidney fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be divided by bulbs include: calla lily (Zantedeschia), amaryllis (Hippeastrum), freesia (Freesia), lycoris (Lycoris), tulip (Tulipa), Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana), etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud (Cercis chinensis), elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), pomegranate (Punica granatum), lilac (Syringa), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose (Rosa), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum), etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), osmanthus blooming in all four seasons, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), boxwood (Buxus sinica), boxwood (Buxus bodinieri), etc., when transplanting, first, reduce-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus, daisy (Bellis perennis), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), pansy (Viola), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), verbena (Verbena), phlox (Phlox), snapdragon (Antirrhinum), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), lily turf (Reineckea carnea), etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: narcissus (Narcissus tazetta), poet's narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip (Tulipa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for the hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet (Ligustrum), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), golden-edged boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), boxwood (Buxus sinica), French holly (Viburnum), privet (Ligustrum), photinia (Photinia), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), boxwood (Buxus), bayberry (Myrica rubra), holly grape (Mahonia), holly (Ilex), photinia (Photinia), pittosporum (Pittosporum), firethorn (Pyracantha), etc. For continuously flowering ground-planted flowering trees in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Lantana camara, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and rotten stems, and moderately reduce-prune the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, marigold (Tagetes erecta), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued flowering and blooming of the lateral shoots, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowering trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting; first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no standing water; second, continue to mist the leaf surfaces. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting and moisture retention.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, it is suitable to top-dress with quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for osmanthus species that have already flowered, you may open ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple (Malus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), and camellia (Camellia japonica), Michelia, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc. that have been pruned, you may bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), firethorn (Pyracantha) in the fruit-viewing state, as well as southern fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), golden bullet tree (Diospyros cathayensis), etc., you may appropriately water with a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), crabapple (Malus), etc., continue to use poisonous sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up and burn them in a centralized manner. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, you may whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), bamboo-leaf podocarpus (Nageia nagi), soapberry (Sapindus), horse chestnut (Aesculus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Manglietia, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), mountain magnolia (Magnolia delavayi), Huangshan magnolia (Magnolia amoena), yellow magnolia (Michelia champaca), golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered Manglietia, broad-petal Michelia, pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Ardisia crenata, beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fan palm (Livistona), kuding tea (Ilex kudingcha), French holly (Viburnum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya (Chaenomeles), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), yew (Taxus), oil tea (Camellia oleifera), etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), tulip tree (Liriodendron), red maple (Acer palmatum), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), golden larch (Pseudolarix), dawn redwood (Metasequoia), cryptomeria (Cryptomeria), Chinese tallow (Sapium sebiferum), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), southern sour jujube (Choerospondias axillaris), redbud (Cercis chinensis), camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), bishop wood (Bischofia polycarpa), five-angled maple (Acer), etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, cockscomb (Celosia cristata), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), small dahlia (Dahlia), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), impatiens (Impatiens), four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), strawflower (Helichrysum), cosmos (Cosmos), snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), painted euphorbia (Euphorbia heterophylla), sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica), dancing grass (Codariocalyx motorius), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna (Canna), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), etc., when their above-ground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them in the spring of the following year.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-preferring foliage plants, such as rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), green giant (Philodendron), red gem (Dieffenbachia), etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by leaf misting; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as calla lily (Zantedeschia), cyclamen (Cyclamen), clivia (Clivia miniata), purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), Daphne odora, geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia), etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and misting increased, so as to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, so as to facilitate their safe overwintering. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn coolness, promptly top-dress with low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for camellia (Camellia japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis), primrose (Primula), clivia (Clivia miniata), cyclamen (Cyclamen), black orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), poet's narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue top-dressing with a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately top-dress with some low-concentration potassium fertilizer, thereby increasing the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-ornamental potted plants, such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), Nandina, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), rich seed (Ardisia), golden bullet tree (Diospyros cathayensis), etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be top-dressed in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem (Dieffenbachia), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), peperomia (Peperomia), etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, their dead branches and fallen leaves, diseased and pest branches, thin and weak branches, etc. should first be cut off; for leggy branches, carry out strong reduction pruning; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or re-bound after removal, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to wither and die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or stump bonsai, they can be buried and planted at the end of the month in wind-sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of cold waves moving south.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, aphids, chrysanthemum tiger (Phytoecia), leaf-miner larvae, inchworms (Geometridae), etc. should be controlled.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    On the balcony in early to mid-October, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Nishiki pine (Pinus parviflora 'Nishiki'), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), plum yew (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), water poplar (Adina rubella), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), boxwood (Buxus sinica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), thick-leaf fig (Ficus), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Aglaia odorata, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), firethorn (Pyracantha), Lantana camara, tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), red maple (Acer palmatum), etc. For some cold-intolerant southern flowering tree species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, they can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month. Such as large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium), crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum), Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and can be placed on the balcony at other times, such as broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Aspidistra elatior, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm (Caryota), king coconut (Roystonea regia), spotted trunk (Ficus), Schefflera arboricola, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouth large flower pots as cutting containers on the balcony, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice husk ash and half wet sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and cut-propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Schefflera arboricola, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), aucuba (Aucuba), Michelia, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), coral flower (Justicia carnea), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), silver queen aglaonema (Aglaonema), golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), geranium (Pelargonium), etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Schefflera arboricola, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), etc., you can water once a day, while supplementing with leaf misting; for species that have already developed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), etc., watering should not be excessive, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel (Philodendron), Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), etc., all should be mainly misted and supplemented by watering, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia (Clivia miniata), cyclamen (Cyclamen), calla lily (Zantedeschia), as well as large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium), bromeliads, New Year orchid (Cymbidium), etc., you may water with a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), golden bean (Fortunella), lemon (Citrus limon), Nandina, golden bullet tree (Diospyros cathayensis), rich seed (Ardisia), firethorn (Pyracantha), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc. mainly grown for fruit viewing, you may continue to water with a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), etc., you may top-dress 1 to 2 times with thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October, so as to facilitate their smooth overwintering.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect those nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, you can continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot stump bonsai, which should be paid even more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on fine weather days for 3 to 4 hours around noon, they can be moved indoors. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), plum yew (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (stump), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), privet (Ligustrum), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus), etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can first be untied, and if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further binding and fixing, which can avoid overly deep constriction marks causing serious harm to the plants. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, you can apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, and the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing a good job of cold protection and freeze protection for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic sheds. This month's flower affairs management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium (Tropaeolum), gloxinia (Sinningia), tuberous begonia (Begonia), cyclamen (Cyclamen), African daisy (Gerbera), clivia (Clivia miniata), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), hosta (Hosta), etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), privet (Ligustrum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), bamboo-leaf podocarpus (Nageia nagi), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), soapberry (Sapindus), rich seed (Ardisia crenata), palm (Trachycarpus), French holly (Viburnum), photinia (Photinia), photinia (Photinia), etc.

    2. Cutting. In November, open-field cutting can be carried out, but ground film covering must be added. Flowering tree species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), plum blossom (Prunus mume) (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth and other easy-to-root varieties), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be root-cut propagated in November include: red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), holly grape (Mahonia), holly (Ilex), trumpet creeper (Campsis), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), etc. Some of the root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely cut-propagated in greenhouses or plastic sheds in November include: boxwood (Buxus sinica), boxwood (Buxus bodinieri), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), silver-edged boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), clearweed (Pilea), golden-edged privet (Ligustrum), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Hypericum, Hypericum, mahonia (Mahonia), golden-edged snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by the next spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, you can also cut-propagate bamboo-node begonia (Begonia), moth-leaf begonia (Begonia), lotus-leaf begonia (Begonia), geranium (Pelargonium), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), fuchsia (Fuchsia), jade tree (Crassula ovata), purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), red-backed eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), etc., and they can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, you can also cut scion sticks of cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), trumpet creeper (Campsis), grape (Vitis), etc. for storage, to be cut in the spring of the following year, which can significantly speed up their rooting and improve the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock, bag indoors and graft red maple (Acer palmatum), feather maple (Acer palmatum var. dissectum); use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (Prunus mume) (the graft union is buried in the soil to overwinter); use thick strong branches of Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock-scion, and use branches of excellent varieties of Chinese rose as scion, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cut, promoting the simultaneous healing of the graft union and rooting of the lower cut, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent varieties of Chinese rose.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be low-layered in November mainly include: flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), small-leaf gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), pomegranate (Punica granatum), camellia (Camellia japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), weigela (Weigela florida), sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), cypress (Cupressus), Michelia, snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), snowball (Viburnum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), spiraea (Spiraea), etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be divided and propagated in November include: flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), spiraea (Spiraea), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), three-pronged (Euonymus), Hypericum, Hypericum, mahonia (Mahonia), butterfly bush (Buddleja), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), broom (Caragana), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia), jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), fernleaf bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Ficus bamboo (Bambusa), etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, you can dig up the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), canna (Canna), large-flowered canna (Canna), store them in sand until March of the next spring, and then cut, divide and plant them.

Herbaceous flower species that can be divided and propagated include: bletilla (Bletilla striata), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), Huilan orchid (Cymbidium faberi), hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), ornamental bromeliads, large-leaf lilyturf (Ophiopogon), lily turf (Reineckea carnea), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), evergreen (Aglaonema), Aspidistra elatior, kalanchoe (Kalanchoe), etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), maple mallow (Abutilon), etc.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Huangshan pine (Pinus taiwanensis), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), dawn redwood (Metasequoia), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), Japanese false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), sweetgum (Liquidambar), camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), eucommia (Eucommia ulmoides), red-twig dogwood (Cornus), Chinese tallow (Sapium sebiferum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), peashrub (Caragana), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum). Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), palm (Trachycarpus), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), soapberry (Sapindus), goji (Lycium), yew (Taxus), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), holly (Ilex), holly grape (Mahonia), firethorn (Pyracantha), photinia (Photinia), photinia (Photinia), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly (Silene), Dianthus, hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), large-flowered pansy (Viola), snapdragon (Antirrhinum), daisy (Bellis perennis), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), etc.

    Species that can be transplanted as large trees in November include: camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), soapberry (Sapindus), privet (Ligustrum), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria), Chinese tallow (Sapium sebiferum), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), red maple (Acer palmatum), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), horse chestnut (Aesculus), linden (Tilia), giant redbud (Cercis), tulip tree (Liriodendron), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), papaya (Chaenomeles), crabapple (Malus), etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately reduce-pruned or cut back, and most of the leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches trimmed, a good soil ball carried, and the trunk bound well. After large tree transplanting, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water from evaporating from the tree body.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic sheds to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa), poet's narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), etc. should be moved into plastic sheds to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic sheds, or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist, not overly wet. If the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf misting given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), rhododendron (Rhododendron), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis), etc., as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), firethorn (Pyracantha), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), rich seed (Ardisia), etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be frequently misted, so as to facilitate the swelling growth of flower buds and also make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic sheds, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaf surfaces should also be frequently misted, so that they always maintain a verdant and glossy leaf color. In greenhouses and rooms with higher temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For relatively cold-intolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia, green emperor (Aglaonema), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), silver queen (Aglaonema), etc., the amount of watering should be controlled, so as to facilitate their safe overwintering.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is preferably 10 to 11 a.m., and it is required that the water temperature and soil temperature be basically consistent, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by too low water temperature, thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors with a temperature above 15°C, species such as Western azalea (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Daphne odora, cineraria (Pericallis), cyclamen (Cyclamen), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip (Tulipa), ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), five-color bromeliads, etc., you can continue top-dressing with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution, which can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic sheds, top-dressing should be stopped, so as to facilitate their normal dormancy and overwintering. For most ground-planted flowering trees, such as crabapple species (Malus), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), Manglietia, Lechang Michelia, Yunshan white magnolia, Michelia, golden-leaf Michelia, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), spiraea (Spiraea), sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), grape (Vitis), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), soapberry (Sapindus), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), palm (Trachycarpus), red maple (Acer palmatum), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), forsythia (Forsythia), peony (Paeonia lactiflora), Hypericum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with a dosage of 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for small plants, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned, and base fertilizer can be applied after pruning is completed.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), plum yew (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus), firethorn (Pyracantha), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), crabapple (Malus), etc., laying a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese rose that has not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 sturdy 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), carry out strong reduction pruning on the current-year branches, except for retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, so as to facilitate more sturdy new shoots next year and lay a good foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees on flowerbeds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), forsythia (Forsythia), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), camellia (Camellia japonica), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), firethorn (Pyracantha), pittosporum (Pittosporum), crabapple (Malus), etc., cut off all those disorderly branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches, diseased and pest branches, etc., and appropriately reduce-prune the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, you can also peel the bark of thick large palm trees, do a good job of cleaning the trunk, and make them show their due ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flowering tree species, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), rhododendron (Rhododendron), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), Huilan orchid (Cymbidium faberi), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Michelia alba, Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), pitcher plant orchid (Enkianthus), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), fingered citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), Ardisia crenata, Schefflera arboricola, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm (Caryota), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), etc., they can be placed in plastic sheds, as long as the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, deep-lobed philodendron (Philodendron), Aglaia odorata, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), gold-vein shrimp plant (Justicia), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), red (green) gem (Dieffenbachia), green giant (Philodendron), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, etc., they should be placed indoors with a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or protected for overwintering with double-layer plastic sheds.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapple species (Malus), azalea (Rhododendron), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), boxwood (Buxus sinica), plum yew (Sageretia thea), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), cypress (Cupressus), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), red maple (Acer palmatum), etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pot in wind-sheltered, sunny soil, and under conditions not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If encountered with particularly cold weather, film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in sheds, greenhouses or indoors in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, ventilation should also be done properly. Windows and doors can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent flowers, fruits and leaves from dropping because the plants are kept stuffy indoors for a long time. In addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not seep indoors; otherwise, it can also easily cause leaf and fruit drop. When ventilating, be careful never to let cold wind blow directly on the plants.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses and camellias, collecting and burning the fallen leaves under the plants can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk and split-trunk stump bonsai, apply lime sulfur mixture to the dead and split parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rotting of the stump xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects and the like appearing on potted flowering trees and shrubs placed in greenhouses or sheds (they may occur on bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For western azaleas placed in sheds, stop spraying leaf fertilizer products such as Yemianbao; otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is very likely to occur.

    In November, the main types of bonsai plants suitable for styling include: Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, Sawara cypress, procumbent juniper, Euonymus pendulus, serissa, plum blossom, winter hazel, oak, Chinese holly, wintergreen, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, Chinese elm, Hall crabapple and so on.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and hung with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when obvious constriction marks are found on the trunks and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunks and branches can be tied and adjusted again.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Chinese boxthorn, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields by the shallow-embedding and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and styling, in November, according to the styling characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, select suitable pots and repot them, pair them with fist-sized stones and dot them with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-styled tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, Chaenomeles speciosa and so on, in November select suitable pots and plant them, strengthen water management, and they can be used for display in squares, parks and auditoriums the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, sheds and homes; second, do a good job of pruning, cleaning, and turning and fertilizing the soil for open-field flowers and trees; third, do the preparatory work of composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral and African daisy; tree and shrub species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, Chinese privet, soapberry, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae and so on.

    2. Cuttage. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be cut in the open field in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose and miniature rose); purple-leaf plum, wintersweet (cut with a heel), spiraea, boxwood species and so on. Among them, plum blossom and purple-leaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed medium of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, jade plant, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, clerodendrum, lantana, Schefflera, Daphne, pothos, Cordyline and so on. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, mahonia, hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, hinoki cypress, serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, Triarrhena and so on. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac and grape can also be cut and stored in sand for cutting in the following spring.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum cultivars such as Guhong and Zhusha, in December, using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum and peach sown that year, dig up the rootstocks and perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain spacing in rows, covering soil above the graft union, even burying most of the scion. Be careful not to let water seep into the graft union when watering, cover with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture, and remove the covering film in the following spring after the scion sprouts. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars; or use healthy branch segments of the Elizabeth rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Chinese rose scions on the upper end, and then plant the grafted Elizabeth scion segments into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and heat, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts remove the covering film; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut open the tying band at the graft union. In addition, red maple can also be side-grafted indoors with a bag to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate and so on.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum and Aglaonema. When cutting off the basal offsets from large colorful bromeliad plants for division, it must be done only when the small plants have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colorful bands of the divided offsets are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm, Bambusa multiplex and so on.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold rooms, such as salvia species, globe amaranth species, marigold, Tagetes patula, cyclamen and clivia. Clivia seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, Chinese privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, camphor tree and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need to be stratified in sand for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in sheds, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus and pansy; they can be used for street display in the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, purple-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Japanese pagoda tree, weeping pagoda tree and so on. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea and wintergreen. When transplanting, first heavily shorten the main shoot and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, bring a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cuts on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees and shrubs that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa and Hall crabapple. Place them in sheds for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-narcissus and so on should continue to be kept in sheds for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic sheds with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freezing damage, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa multiplex and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, pocket coconut, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, Areca palm, geranium, hibiscus and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic sheds. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, Peperomia, Maranta, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, pink poinsettia, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, clerodendrum, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, sago palm, red (green) gem, Oncidium and Cymbidium hookerianum, even in double-layer sheds with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should still be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the shed with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Chinese boxthorn, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, red juniper, water willow, Chinese holly and Fraxinus chinensis, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, additionally cover with plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers and foliage or fruit ornamental plants are placed in sheds, greenhouses or homes, besides maintaining an appropriate indoor temperature, attention should also be paid to ventilation. Windows and doors can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf, flower and fruit drop. When ventilating, one must also be careful not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, sheds and homes, keep the potting soil moist. If the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, it is very easy to cause root rot in the plants. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth and European narcissus, and for fruit ornamental species such as bitter orange, lemon, finger citron, four-season mandarin, golden bean, winter coral, Ardisia crenata and nandina, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to help the flower buds expand and also to increase the vividness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying should also be given, always keeping the leaf surfaces clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink poinsettia, Syngonium, Maranta, croton and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the watering time should preferably be the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by excessively low water temperature.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and give supplementary watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and dropping.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees and shrubs, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary sheds, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most planted greening trees and flowering trees and shrubs, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, purple-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, tree peony, forsythia, hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, Rosa banksiae, hypericum, weeping willow, Cryptomeria, cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, elm-leaved spirea, Prunus japonica, white silk plum, photinia, redbud and rose of Sharon, while turning the garden soil in December, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud and septic tank residue, to lay a good material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, bromeliads, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution, to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, Chinese privet, Ligustrum quihoui, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus and Photinia davidsoniae; ball-shaped plants include Chinese holly, waxberry, photinia, boxwood species, Pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper and Chinese juniper. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For planted flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, purple-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply fertilizer around the roots.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Chinese boxthorn, Chinese holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple and papaya, continue pruning in December, to lay a good framework for growth next year; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repot them in combination with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias and crape myrtle, collect and burn the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For the types of flowers and trees in greenhouses and sheds that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, camellia and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on whose potted plants aphids often appear when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated Pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, Chinese privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug and felt scale. At this time, use higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos and buprofezin for spraying, and phytotoxicity rarely occurs.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and potting soil preparation next year, make use of the idle winter time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake and so on into water vats or water pools, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs and branches in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix and compost barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure with garden soil, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil next year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Make use of the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and compost as much potting soil as possible, to meet the needs of repotting and potting herbaceous flowers in the following spring. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, then mix them thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Plowing and freezing clods. For garden land to be used for sowing, cutting and planting seedlings next year, plowing can be carried out in December; for land used for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud and so on can be applied before plowing; do not make beds for the time being. After overwintering and freezing clods, in early spring of the following year, open furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Buddhist pine, hinoki cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese weeping cypress, Sawara cypress, Chinese arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana sinica, Chinese elm, Chinese boxthorn, trident maple, winter hazel, tamarisk, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Fraxinus chinensis and oak.

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing time has already been one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying and training.

For planted and already styled plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle and so on, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used for display in public places or homes next year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree stump bonsai, management must be careful: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "third nine-day period", when most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, when cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year occurs. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai and so on in greenhouses, sheds and homes; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the soil, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Chinese rose (Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttage. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field cutting or cutting with plastic film cover in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as Lü'e and Gongfen), purple-leaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as Elizabeth, floribunda and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Triarrhena, hypericum, forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine and Jasminum officinale. Species that can be propagated by cutting in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cutting), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, Portulacaria afra, jade tree, Echeveria, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, rubber tree, Daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema, pothos and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela florida, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree and fig can also be cut and stored in sand for cutting in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach and wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, plant them buried on the seedbed, and cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft four-season mandarin, kumquat and so on; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars, use the Elizabeth rose cultivar as the rootstock scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, pink zephyr lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Bryophyllum, bromeliads, small torch ginger, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, Triarrhena, boxwood and purple magnolia.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds in the greenhouse, sow them immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, wintergreen species and Ardisia crenata can be collected, and after treatment, stratified in sand for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species and photinia species, to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and clean fine sand replaced for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplement with spraying water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white, or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles and so on to preserve heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold areas include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold and daisy; in relatively cold areas, after potting sown seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy and primrose, first place them in simple plastic sheds, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, purple-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triarrhena, Chinese rose, Japanese pagoda tree and Sophora japonica var. pendula. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum quihoui, should generally, except under special circumstances, be transplanted either earlier in December or later in February; of course, in sheltered places, after transplanting with heavy shortening pruning, and with strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, areas south of the Yangtze River are not affected in collecting wild tree stumps during the process of forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Chinese boxthorn, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen tree stumps such as nandina, Ilex cornuta, Chinese holly and oak, heavy shortening pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-embedding and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; a little negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a shed, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic sheds with temperatures not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, Daphne, sago palm, Acorus, Bambusa multiplex and Bambusa multiplex. In double-layer plastic sheds with temperatures not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, pocket coconut, Diospyros armata, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, Areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, giant Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea and lantana. In double-layer plastic sheds or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium, Syngonium, Maranta, bromeliads, Peperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant taro, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas, sago palm, desert rose, pink poinsettia, poinsettia, Pachystachys lutea and coral flower. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the shed, and only after the temperature turns warmer may the straw curtains stop being added. On very cold days, strengthen checks on heating facilities and on-duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 o'clock in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause freezing damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Chinese boxthorn, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, Chinese arborvitae, small waxberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen and Fraxinus chinensis, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, additionally cover with plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in sheds, greenhouses or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining an appropriate air temperature, ventilation should also be done properly. Windows and doors can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower, leaf and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and sheds during each cold air movement southward; if broken glass, torn film and so on are found, repair and patch them in time, so as to prevent potted flowers from freezing. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or shed, to prevent flower, leaf and fruit drop caused by smoke damage and the like.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 additional hours of light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple and winter jasmine can also be placed in sheds at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased lighting time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-narcissus and freesia that were placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for the watering management of potted flowers, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot or death of the plants. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, sheds and homes, keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly, and when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but attention should also be paid to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves of the plants clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink poinsettia, Syngonium, Maranta and croton, when the temperature approaches the lowest limit the plant can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering. For potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe and pot marigold, and fruit ornamental species such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, golden bean and winter coral, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to help the flower buds expand and also to increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, checks should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water; promptly give supplementary watering to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give supplementary watering in time; especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon, to prevent the leaves from wrinkling and dropping due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Schima superba, Machilus, Nyssa, Camptotheca, tree peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, purple-leaf plum, Prunus japonica, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Cryptomeria, Taiwan fir, cedar, Japanese pagoda tree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate and loquat, if the fertilization task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud and septic tank cleanings around the outer perimeter of the tree root zone, to lay a good material foundation for growth and flowering in spring.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-narcissus, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise and crab claw orchid, continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to help plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees and shrubs, foliage plants and bonsai placed in sheds, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls and ball-shaped plants not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Rosa banksiae, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, purple-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palm and grape, continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of the roots, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm, Chinese boxthorn, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa and Chinese juniper, continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for growth and shaping in spring. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, elm-leaved spirea species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom and purple-leaf plum that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles and the like, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese roses, roses, grapes and crape myrtle, gather them and burn them in a centralized way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug and thread scale appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet and photinia, spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture and so on, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake and so on into water pools or water vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches and fallen leaves in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix and compost barnyard manure, pond mud, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure with garden soil for fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet turned and reclaimed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure and so on; after overwintering and freezing clods, in early spring open furrows and make beds, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for styling must be those with soft branches, good toughness and easy styling operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus, Sawara cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana sinica, winter hazel, Euonymus pendulus, banyan and wisteria. After styling, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic sheds, and moved outdoors only after spring returns and the weather warms, which is beneficial for the healing of parts that may have been damaged during styling.

For plants styled 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and so on, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed, and tying and training should be carried out again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which damages the plant's fibrous roots and can cause the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on small stones from dying after freezing. They should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

Spiraea Spiraea salicifolia L. Spiraea illustrated guide: how to grow spiraea / how to propagate spiraea