What to Do When Periwinkle Leaves Turn Yellow? Four Fixes Like Repotting and Watering Solve It Easily

Periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) is a highly ornamental flowering plant, and it can be seen in many gardens across our country. However, even the most beautiful flower will lose its overall appeal if its leaves turn yellow. So what should you do when periwinkle leaves turn yellow? Let's take a look below.

What to Do When Periwinkle Leaves Turn Yellow

As for the question of what to do when periwinkle leaves turn yellow, we first need to know what is causing it, so that we can address it accordingly. There are many causes of this phenomenon, such as insufficient watering, intense sunlight, and pest and disease problems, all of which can cause leaves to turn yellow. As for how to deal with it, let's read on.

1. Soil Problems

In the process of growing periwinkle, soil is a very important part. If the wrong clayey soil is chosen, it will make it difficult for the periwinkle to absorb nutrients, causing its leaves to turn yellow.

Note: If the yellowing of periwinkle leaves is caused by soil problems, we need to replace the soil in time. For the soil, we can choose fairly fertile leaf mold, which has good drainage and aeration and allows the periwinkle to absorb nutrients better.

2. Insufficient Watering

Water is an essential nutrient for flowering plants during their growth, and periwinkle is no exception. During the process of growing periwinkle, you must maintain sufficient moisture. If there is not enough water, it will also cause periwinkle leaves to turn yellow.

Note: Although too little watering can cause periwinkle leaves to turn yellow, too much watering is also no good. If water accumulates, root rot can easily occur. So when watering, you must use an appropriate amount: water thoroughly each time, and wait until the soil has dried out completely before watering again.

3. Intense Sunlight

Although periwinkle is a light-loving plant that needs plenty of sunlight during growth, when the sunlight becomes too intense in summer, leaving it outside in the blazing sun for a long time can easily scorch the plant and cause its leaves to turn yellow.

Note: When growing periwinkle in summer, you can place it outdoors in the morning to receive light, but during the few hours around noon when the sunlight is strongest, it is best to move it indoors to a semi-shaded spot. Otherwise, periwinkle leaves can easily turn yellow.

4. Pests and Diseases

During the process of growing periwinkle, improper care can easily lead to pest and disease problems. This is also one of the main causes of yellowing periwinkle leaves, as many pests and diseases produce this symptom in their early stages.

Note: If the yellowing leaves are caused by pests or diseases, we must deal with it promptly and absolutely must not delay. If it drags on, it will be more than simple leaf yellowing; it may well cause the plant to wither and die. As for specific prevention and control methods, you can refer to the article on pest and disease control for periwinkle, which has detailed information.

Hydroponic Flower Growing Techniques

Soilless Cultivation Methods for the Money Tree

The money tree (Pachira aquatica) has a graceful form, a majestic leaf crown, and emerald-green foliage. Placed in a family living room, it is both elegant and appealing.

The money tree is a perennial evergreen shrub native to the Malay Peninsula and the South Seas Islands. In recent years, through cultivation and selection, it has widely entered urban and rural households in our country. For home cultivation, based on its habit of preferring high temperatures and high humidity and its intolerance of frost and dryness, particular attention should be paid to the following four points:

First, pay attention to sunlight. The money tree likes high temperatures, humidity, and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for long periods. Therefore, during care and management it should be placed in a spot indoors with ample sunlight. When placing it, the leaf surface must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves grow toward the light, the entire branches and leaves will become twisted. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, spray water on the leaves once with a spray bottle. This not only helps photosynthesis proceed but also makes the branches and leaves look more attractive.

Hydroponic Methods for Periwinkle

Apocynaceae, Catharanthus genus, also known as five-petal plum.

Biological characteristics: Periwinkle is native to eastern Africa. It likes a warm, slightly dry, and sunny environment. The optimum growing temperature is 18-24°C from March to July, and 13-18°C from September to March of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C.

Periwinkle dislikes wetness and fears waterlogging, so the pot soil should not be watered too much; excessive moisture affects growth and development. Especially for plants overwintering indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and it is better to keep them on the dry side, otherwise they are very susceptible to cold damage. For open-field cultivation, during heavy summer showers, pay attention to timely drainage to avoid waterlogging that causes the entire patch to die.

Periwinkle is a light-loving plant. During the growing period it must have sufficient sunlight, so that the leaves are dark green and glossy and the flowers are brightly colored. If it grows in a shaded place for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

It is suitable for fertile and well-drained loam and tolerates poor soil, but must absolutely not be in slightly alkaline soil. In compacted, poorly aerated clayey soil, the result is poor plant growth, yellowing leaves, and no flowering.

Propagation methods: Commonly by sowing, cuttings, and propagation.

Cultivation and management: When the seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into 10 cm pots, 3 plants per pot. When the seedlings are 7-8 cm tall, pinch once, and then pinch 2 more times afterward to encourage more branching and more blooming. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use a 15-15-30 "Huiyou" special fertilizer for pot flowers. For potted plants or flower beds planted out of pots in the ground, flowering lasts from late May to early November, more than 5 months. During the flowering period, remove spent flowers at any time to prevent them from molding and affecting plant growth and ornamental value. August to October is the seed collection period for periwinkle; collect as they ripen to avoid seed loss.

Pest and disease control: Leaf rot, rust, and root-knot nematodes are common problems. For leaf rot, spray with a 500-fold dilution of 65% zineb wettable powder. For rust, spray with a 2000-fold dilution of 50% carboxin wettable powder. For root-knot nematodes, spray with a 50-fold dilution of 80% dichloropropane emulsifiable concentrate for control.

Hydroponic Methods for Euphorbia tirucalli

Euphorbiaceae, Euphorbia genus, also known as triangular spurge. Native to South Africa.

Characteristics

Euphorbia tirucalli is a perennial succulent plant. The stems are erect, 3-4 angled, dark green, with irregular beautiful gray-green markings in the center of the stem. The edges of the angles have tooth-like protrusions, and at the protrusions grow obovate leaves. It branches abundantly, all growing vertically upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains a caustic milky sap. Euphorbia tirucalli has a peculiar shape and a rich exotic flavor, making it an excellent choice for tabletop greenery decoration.

Habits

Euphorbia tirucalli likes semi-shade but requires ample scattered light. It can tolerate low temperatures of 5°C. Euphorbia tirucalli likes dryness and dislikes prolonged moisture, yet it is very well suited to hydroponic conditions.

Propagation

Euphorbia tirucalli is usually propagated by cuttings. Between May and September, take about 10 cm of branch from the mother plant as a cutting. The cut cutting should not be inserted immediately, as immediate insertion will cause the cut end to rot and lead to failure of the cutting. The cut end of Euphorbia tirucalli exudes milky sap, so when cutting, dip it in plant ash or carbon powder, and let it dry in a cool place for several days. After the cut end has fully dried, insert it for cuttings; it roots very easily.

Key Points for Hydroponic Care

1: If scale insects appear, besides moving it to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush off the scale insects with a toothbrush and then spray with a 250-fold laundry detergent solution to kill them.

2: The white milky sap in the stems of Euphorbia tirucalli is toxic. Be especially careful not to get it in your eyes.

How to Obtain Hydroponic Material

Cuttings and root washing. The cut branches should first be dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days, and only inserted into water after the cut end has dried; otherwise they will rot. After one month, new roots can grow.

Hydroponic Methods for Reineckea carnea

Reineckea carnea, also known as Guanyin grass, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the Liliaceae family, Reineckea genus. The leaves grow in clusters, broadly linear, with a sunken midrib and a gradually pointed tip, 15 to 40 cm long; the stem is creeping and rhizomatous, rooting at the nodes; the flowering period is September to October, with pale purple flowers, upright, in terminal spike-like inflorescences about 6 cm long; the fruit is bright red and spherical; it is native to the southwestern region of our country and likes a warm, humid environment. It is relatively cold-tolerant and shade-tolerant, has low soil requirements, and is highly adaptable. Because Reineckea carnea has a graceful plant shape and emerald-green leaves, if we make use of its cold tolerance and shade tolerance by placing it in various goldfish bowls or other glass vessels for hydroponic cultivation, and then place it on a bar counter or tea table, then there is water in the bowl, stones in the water, and roots among the stones, all clearly visible and refreshing, making it a refined and elegant work of art. The cultivation methods are introduced below.

1. Material selection. Choose plants with dark green leaves, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Carefully dig them out of the soil with a shovel and wash the roots clean. During digging, be careful to dig as deep as possible and keep as much soil as possible. This serves two purposes: first, to avoid damaging the roots, which benefits hydroponic growth; second, because water is transparent, intact roots can display a unique beauty in the water.

2. Pressing with stones. Choose cobblestones or rain flower pebbles used for paving garden paths, wash them clean, first spread a layer on the bottom of the glass bowl, place the Reineckea carnea upright on the stones, then use stones to press its roots firmly so it does not fall over, and pour clean water into the glass vessel until the entire root system is submerged. The transparency of the water means that pressing with stones should also involve certain aesthetic techniques; the grower can design it with their own creativity to highlight individuality.

3. Management. Because the roots of Reineckea carnea are soaked in water for a long time, the water tends to develop an odor over time, so it should be changed frequently, preferably once a week. As for fertilizing, regularly drip a few drops of nutrient solution or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. Reineckea carnea is relatively shade-tolerant; 1 to 2 hours of fluorescent lamp exposure each evening is enough to meet its photosynthetic needs.

Hydroponic Methods for Cyclamen

Choose 1- to 3-year-old cyclamen plants that are free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and in bud. Those grown in soilless media such as perlite, vermiculite, or wood chips are best, as they do not suffer root damage, do not need to go through a slow recovery period after a change of environment, and adapt quickly. Hydroponic containers are simple and economical and can serve to reuse waste in daily life. Any water-holding container such as a fish tank, teacup, beverage box, wine bottle, or vase will do; transparent containers are best, as the roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruit can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height, and color must all be in harmony with the cyclamen plant, so as to bring out the exquisite, translucent, and elegant charm of hydroponic cyclamen.

Hydroponic timing and methods: The flowering period of cyclamen is generally from October to June of the following year, so the hydroponic period is generally from September to April of the following year. Take the selected cyclamen plant out of its pot, wash the medium clinging to the roots with 20°C warm water, being careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a previously prepared container, with the water level even with the root zone and at most not exceeding 1/3 of the corm, to avoid corm rot. Finally, place it in a suitable spot indoors and regularly add water and nutrient solution. After two to three months of hydroponic growth and the flowers fade, take the plant out and plant it in cultivation medium to spend the summer.

Water quality and water temperature: The water used for hydroponic cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water, with clean water quality that is not turbid and does not form sediment, and that contains various trace elements essential to plants; throughout the hydroponic period no water change is needed. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable for flower growth, and it readily becomes turbid and forms sediment, requiring water changes every few days, so it should be avoided as much as possible. The water temperature should be close to the indoor air temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.

Light and indoor temperature: Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The hydroponic container should be placed on a desktop or windowsill indoors with ample sunlight, not directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C, with a maximum not exceeding 25°C and a minimum not below 10°C. Adding nutrient solution: Hydroponic cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation during the flowering period. Generally, add 50 ml per plant of a 1:100 dilution of flowering plant nutrient solution every 10 days; mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellowing leaves, small leaves, or small flowers are observed, after ruling out root rot, an appropriately larger amount of nutrient solution may be added.

Hydroponics for Arrhenatherum elatius

Chinese name: Libang grass

Alias: silver-edged grass

Family and genus: Poaceae

Latin scientific name: Arrhenatherumelatius

Habit: perennial herb

Plant height: 50-100 cm tall

Flowering period: summer (June-August)

Cold tolerance: cold-tolerant (above -5°C)

Shade tolerance: sun-loving

Morphological characteristics: Underground stems are white and bead-like; aboveground stems are clustered and smooth. Leaves grow in clumps, linear-lanceolate, 30 cm long, about 1 cm wide, with yellow-white edges. The panicle has a long stalk, about 50 cm, and is branched; spikelets have two flowers, the upper one bisexual or female, the lower one male; flowering period June-July. Native to Europe.

Habits: Extremely robust, both cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, and not choosy about soil. In midsummer the aboveground parts often wither and go dormant, then sprout and grow again in early September.

Propagation and cultivation: Usually divide the clumps once every 2-3 years, in spring from March to April or in September after dormancy when new leaves first emerge. Dig up the old clump and separate it, with each division preferably carrying 2-3 new shoots and separated together with the bead-like underground stems. Old plants should be pruned carefully every year, and the leaves should not be too long. When the underground stems are exposed, soil should be banked up in time, so the clump is vigorous and graceful. If too much fertilizer is applied during cultivation, or if fertilizer is excessively lacking, the white spots on the leaves will disappear and they will turn entirely green, affecting the ornamental effect.

Hydroponic Methods for Schefflera octophylla~~~~~

Dracaena hydroponics: Plants for hydroponic Dracaena can be obtained by referring to the propagation methods above, or can be obtained directly from soil cultivation. The specific methods are as follows:

Root-viewing hydroponics: One week before cultivation, sterilize and treat for insects, and select plants with good appearance for cultivation. If performing hydroponics according to the cuttings method above (for soil-cultivated material, remove the roots and use rapid propagation to force rooting), it is best to first place the planting basket into it. Wait until the roots have grown 5—6 cm long and have not returned to land, then place them in the mutation pool for mutation induction. At the beginning, the nutrient solution concentration should be lower; after the plant adapts to the aquatic growth environment, the concentration can be increased according to the plant, while also reducing aeration, and finally stopping aeration. When the roots have grown enough to be put into a bottle, they can be bottled!

Ceramsite planting: Root forcing before potting is the same as for hydroponics. When potting, do not plant the plant too low, as that is not good for the plant's later growth. When the plant's root system grows out of the inner planting pot, it can be sold!

During the production period, spray a fungicide once every week and spray foliar fertilizer once. For home care, in addition to referring to the product instructions, you should also follow its growth habits: stop fertilizing during the dormant season, place it in a spot with strong sunlight. For ceramsite planting, use less water in winter and early spring. If left in a dark place for too long, the leaves turn yellow and lack vitality, and moreover the tips of the basal leaves tend to turn black, as if scalded by boiling water. During the growing season, do not let it lack water.

Dracaena marginata tricolor alias: three-color edged dragon tree, rainbow dragon tree, colored-striped cordyline

Family and genus: Agavaceae, Dracaena genus

Morphological characteristics: Evergreen small tree. The stem is slender, upright and erect, up to 3 m tall. Leaves are 15-60 cm long and 1-2 cm wide, sword-shaped. The green leaves have creamy white, yellow-white, and red stripes. It is a uniquely distinctive variety in the Dracaena genus.

Distribution and habits: Native to Madagascar.

It likes a warm, humid environment with bright scattered light. It is relatively shade-tolerant and dislikes direct strong light. The suitable growing temperature is 18-28°C. The overwintering temperature must be above 10°C.

Propagation method: cuttings

Key points for hydroponics:

1) Water propagation makes rooting easy, and the water roots are pure white and highly ornamental. Changing the water is the key to success, especially right after inserting; changing the water every other day can increase its oxygen content, until the root system grows. After it adapts to hydroponic cultivation, you can change or add water once a week or once a month depending on the season.

2) In summer, when the water temperature is above 35°C, the roots are prone to rot. At this time, stop using nutrient solution and use only clean water for cultivation, and increase the frequency of water changes to keep the water clear.

3) Place it in a bright spot indoors. Generally, change the water once a month in autumn and winter. If using a transparent container for hydroponics, while changing the water, wipe away the substances adhering to the vessel with a soft cloth to make it transparent, so that the beauty of the plant's root system can be better displayed. After changing the water, drip a few drops of commercially available nutrient solution into the water or add some potassium dihydrogen phosphate diluted 1000-fold, to supply the nutrients needed for plant growth. If foliar fertilizer or 1000-fold potassium dihydrogen phosphate is sprayed as a foliar topdressing during the growing season, it can make it grow thicker and sturdier.

Can remove: toluene, xylene, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde

Hydroponic Methods for Snake Plant

The snake plant (Sansevieria) is a perennial herb with creeping rhizomes. The leaves grow in clusters, usually 2-6 in a bundle, with erect, leathery, thick leaves, a short pointed tip, dark green color, and pale gray-green horizontal bands; it gets its name because the markings resemble tiger skin. It is over 80 cm tall and 3-7 cm wide. It blooms in spring and summer, with spike-like inflorescences, small flowers in bundles of 3-8, white or pale green, and fragrant.

The snake plant likes a warm climate. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C. It is not cold-tolerant; growth stops below 13°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be below 8°C. When the temperature is too low, it often rots from the base, causing the entire plant to die.

The snake plant likes light, but in summer it should be protected from blazing sun. It is very shade-tolerant and can be displayed in shaded places for long periods.

The snake plant is a desert plant and can endure harsh environmental conditions.

Propagation is usually by division. Division is usually carried out in spring and autumn in conjunction with repotting. Take the plant out of the pot and use a sharp knife to separate the offsets from the mother plant, trying to avoid damaging the root system and letting the separated offsets carry as many roots as possible. After separation, place the offsets in a dark indoor spot, protect them from rain, and control watering to avoid rot at the cut. Only after new leaves grow can they be returned to normal care.

For mass propagation of snake plants, cuttings can be used. Cuttings are done between May and July. Choose healthy, plump leaves and cut them into 5-7 cm segments; whole-leaf cuttings can also be used. The cut leaves should be placed in a dry, cool place for several days. After the cut ends have dried, insert them vertically or at an angle into the medium, with the insertion depth being 1/3 or 1/2 of the segment length, and water thoroughly once after insertion. When taking cuttings, remember the top and bottom orientation of the cuttings; if inserted upside down, they will not root. At 15-20°C, in about one month they will root from the base or produce rhizomes and gradually grow into new plants. When the young plants have grown 2-3 leaves, they can be potted for final planting.

Do not add too much water and soak all the roots; let a small section of root be exposed above the water surface so it can absorb oxygen. After water-culture roots have grown, you can add a little nutrient solution~~~~Change the water every three or four days in summer, and every six or seven days in winter~~~depending on how cloudy the water is~~~~~~~Generally, woody flowering plants are harder to grow hydroponically, so you will need patience~~~~~~~~

Key Points for Hydroponic Hydrangea

Scientific name: Hydrangeamacrophylla

Aliases: hydrangea, douqiu, shade hydrangea, grass hydrangea, ziyang flower

Family and genus: Saxifragaceae, Hydrangea genus

Plant characteristics: Hydrangea is native to the Yangtze River basin and provinces to the south in our country. Its natural height is 1 to 2 m, and potted height is mostly controlled at 30 to 50 cm. Leaves are opposite, obovate or elliptic, with serrated edges. The corymb is terminal, 20 cm in diameter, nearly spherical; fertile flowers are few and small, while sterile flowers are numerous and large. Flower color varies greatly, initially white, gradually turning blue or pink. The natural flowering period is May to July. It is a deciduous small shrub with emerald-green leaves and brightly colored flowers, and a long ornamental period, and is deeply loved by people.

Ecological habits: Hydrangea likes a warm, humid environment. The optimum growing temperature is 18°C to 28°C, and in winter not below 5°C. Light should be semi-shaded; if too strong, the leaves will be scorched and curl at the edges. It likes loose, fertile soil and has a high water demand, but dislikes waterlogging. It has relatively strong resistance to harmful gases such as sulfur dioxide.

Common cultivated varieties: Hydrangea hortensia (V. hortensica): flowers are all sterile, sepals ovate. Blue-edged hydrangea (V. coerulea Wils): flowers are bisexual, dark blue, with edge flowers blue or white. Ziyang flower (V. otaksa Bailey): flowers sterile, inflorescence large, up to 20 cm in diameter; leaves thick; inflorescence round and spherical, blue or pale red, often used in gardens. Silver hydrangea (V. maculata Wils): has both fertile and sterile flowers; leaves relatively narrow and small, with white edges, used for foliage display.

Propagation methods: Hydrangea can be propagated by division, layering, cuttings, and other methods.

Cuttings can be taken year-round in a greenhouse. Generally in May to June, in conjunction with early-spring pruning and post-flowering shaping. Choose semi-lignified branches free of pests and diseases, each 10 to 15 cm long, retaining 2 to 3 nodes and 1 to 2 leaves at the top, and insert them into a seedbed with river sand or vermiculite as the medium, with proper shading. Keep the medium moist and the air humidity above 80%; rooting begins in about 18 days. Afterward, gradually reduce the frequency of misting and increase light; after about 1 month they can be transplanted.

Cultivation and management: After the cuttings have rooted, pot them promptly. Hydrangea likes loose, fertile, well-drained soil. Usually prepare it with leaf mold, garden soil, and organic fertilizer in a 4:4:2 ratio; for large-scale production, it is better to prepare it with peat, perlite, and organic fertilizer in a 6:2:2 ratio, and disinfect thoroughly before use.

Fertilizing: Hydrangea likes fertilizer. Generally apply organic fertilizer once every half month. In the early growth stage, use more nitrogen fertilizer; during flower bud differentiation and bud formation, use more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. You can also spray 0.1% to 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves 2 to 3 times. Stop fertilizing after the buds show color.

Watering: The transpiration of hydrangea leaves is very high, so water must be given promptly. Even short-term water deficiency and wilting can cause dry leaf edges and necrotic flowers. Especially in summer, shading and cooling must be used to reduce transpiration and maintain air humidity above 60%. In addition, hydrangea flower color is affected by soil pH; it is usually blue in an acidic environment and red in an alkaline environment. Therefore, the water's pH should be determined according to the desired flower color.

Temperature: Hydrangea is not tolerant of high temperatures and requires a temperature between 15°C and 25°C. High temperatures make the plant shorter and the flower color paler, reducing quality. After the buds show color, keep the temperature at 10°C to 12°C to improve flower color and help preserve freshness.

Light: Hydrangea is shade-tolerant, and direct sunlight can cause sunscald, so shading is needed. Generally, 60% shading is required during the growing period. After the inflorescence shows color, it should also be properly shaded to prevent the flower color from fading and losing its luster.

Pruning: Hydrangea has strong sprouting ability, and many vegetative branches will sprout from the base of the plant. To reduce nutrient consumption, remove them promptly. If old branches need to be replaced, choose healthy vegetative branches as reserve branches. After flowering, cut back promptly, retaining 2 to 3 healthy buds to promote new branches.

Flowering regulation: To make hydrangea bloom at Spring Festival, choose healthy 3- to 5-year-old plants. After low-temperature treatment at 2°C to 4°C for 14 days, move them into a greenhouse and heat them, maintaining 10°C to 20°C; they can bloom in 50 to 60 days. Pay attention to frequent ventilation, maintain good light conditions and relatively high air humidity, and apply organic liquid fertilizer once every half month until flowering.

Pest and disease control: Hydrangea has few insect pests, mostly aphids and spider mites, which can be controlled by spraying systemic pesticides while ensuring good ventilation. Common diseases are mostly leaf diseases, such as white rot, gray mold, and leaf spot. Therefore, pesticides should be sprayed regularly for prevention. After symptoms are found, pesticides must be sprayed promptly; severely diseased leaves can be removed and burned.

Introduction to the Jade Plant

[Aliases] Sedum tree, swallow palm, emerald tree, air plant.

[Scientific name] Crassulaarborescens

[Family and genus] Crassulaceae, Crassula genus.

[Morphology] Evergreen succulent plant, plant height 45-75 cm, stem semi-lignified. Single leaves opposite, leaves thick and fleshy, broadly elliptic, entire, 3-5 cm long, 1-3 cm wide; leaf color dark green and glossy; after exposure to light, the leaf edges turn red. Horticultural varieties include variegated-leaf and colored-leaf types.

[Habits] Native to South Africa. Likes warmth, tolerates drought, likes light, also tolerates semi-shade, and grows best under bright scattered light. Likes fertile, loose, well-drained and breathable sandy loam.

[Propagation] Cuttings. Both stem cuttings and leaf cuttings root easily, and water propagation can also succeed. The cutting time is between May and September. Take a 5-10 cm branch or 1 leaf and insert it into plain sandy soil, taking care to maintain moisture; roots can develop after one week.

[Cultivation] Use 2 parts garden soil, 1 part leaf mold, and an appropriate amount of river sand to make the potting mix. After potting, water the young plants thoroughly and place them in a shaded spot. After they survive, place them in a bright spot and do not let direct sunlight hit them. In summer, pay attention to coolness and ventilation. To make the plant shape full and compact, fertilizer and water should not be too heavy at ordinary times, and the pot soil should alternate between dry and moist. In late autumn, bring it indoors for warmth, and the room temperature should be above 7°C. In winter, do not water too much. Repot and change the soil once every spring.

Although the jade plant is easy to propagate, easy to grow, and easy to manage, it is still common to see jade plants on some residents' balconies looking elegant through spring, summer, and autumn, only to become wilted and colorless once winter passes, and even become a "bare chicken." This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-cultivate side of the jade plant and ignore its fragile side. After severe cold arrives, they still place it on an open balcony and let it suffer cold wind and freezing, causing cold damage. After cold damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the jade plant begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off; in severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.

Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering balcony-potted jade plants is very important. The following key points should be mainly addressed:

1. Move the pot indoors in time. After winter begins, move the jade plant indoors where 7°C to 10°C can be maintained. On relatively warm days, at noon you can move the jade plant to the balcony to bathe in sunlight, and still move it indoors at night.

2. Control the dryness and moisture of the pot soil. In winter, keep the pot soil mainly slightly dry, and mist the leaf surface with fine water at appropriate times to supplement moisture. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the pot soil directly.

3. Move them into a warm shed for insulation. If conditions permit, the pots can be moved into a warm shed; if not, a plastic film cover can also be used, but attention must be paid to the humidity inside the cover. If excessive moisture is found, the cover should be removed promptly for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.

4. If the jade plant has already suffered cold damage due to earlier mistakes in freeze protection, do not easily discard the plant. Simply remove the frost-killed leaves and tender branches, keep the plump main stem, and apply fertilizer appropriately the following spring. The main stem can still sprout new branches and leaves, and generally after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect jade plant again.

Jade plant hydroponics:

You can choose to take cuttings from the mother jade plant in spring, summer, or autumn for propagation. One week before cutting, sterilize, disinfect, and treat for pests. After the cuttings are inserted, maintain a certain moisture level in the substrate; at the beginning, spraying and shading are needed. Once callus tissue grows at the base, reduce spraying or stop spraying altogether, otherwise leaves may drop and rot easily. After roots grow to 2-3 cm, they can be transferred to a hydroponic seedling bed for root promotion.

[Uses] Indoor decoration, suitable for embellishing halls. Note: The related foliage plant jade plant (Crassula portulacea), also known as thick-leaved sedum, has obovate leaves and is cultivated in the same way as the jade plant.

You can also do hydroponics without adding nutrient solution~~~ Plants like spider plants will grow well even without nutrient solution~ You can also put two compound fertilizer granules in~~~~~ Or soak nutrient soil in water and take the clear liquid on top, which can also serve as nutrient solution~~~~~ Nutrient solution can be bought at flower shops~~~~~~~~~~

Hydroponic watermelon peperomia must be done in spring or autumn; hydroponics in winter will definitely die. The leaves of watermelon peperomia are best inserted in soil; for hydroponics, choose ones with roots. At the beginning, change the water frequently; after roots grow, you can add nutrient solution~~~~~~~~~~~~

My parlor palm has already grown very well, thank you to the original poster! I'm a lazy person, and there's another way to reduce the frequency of water changes: just add 3 drops of Amway's Loc to the water. It's very effective, but each bottle has a different amount of water, so everyone should start with a small amount and experiment gradually.

Hydroponic fleeceflower root

Let me pour some cold water on this:

1. Not all flowers can be hydroponically grown.

2. It's not simply a matter of washing the roots of soil-grown flowers and putting them in water -- that's not hydroponics, and not all will survive.

3. Raising fish in the water and flower roots competing for oxygen will harm both; fish waste rapidly deteriorates the water, easily causing root rot and fish illness -- it's merely an advertising effect.

4. Light passing through the glass bottle triggers algae growth, which competes for oxygen and covers the surface of flower roots, suffocating them.

5. Fibrous roots squeezed together in water are prone to oxygen deprivation, turning black and dying.

Hydroponic peace lily

Let me also talk about the hydroponic product production process at my base:

Select superior mother plants——remove from pots and rinse roots——cut roots or cut base——disinfect and treat for rooting——plant in planting cups (expanded clay planting)——root promotion in rooting beds——induction in hydroponic beds——harden seedlings for sale (management during this period is computer-assisted)

True hydroponic flowers are not as simple as washing roots and soaking them in water. The cultivation process of hydroponic flowers is very complex, requiring a series of steps including root washing---root trimming----disinfection----planting----root promotion----root induction, and the time required ranges from 10 to 20 days to as long as half a year.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions on hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: Theoretically, any flower can be hydroponically grown, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deprivation need regular aeration of the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas must be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation before they can be hydroponically grown. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
pothos, money tree, peperomia, sun god, arrowroot, little angel, Marian, snake plant, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, etc. Hydroponic flowers can go for long periods without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the top choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, etc. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentration of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution is too high, they can precipitate each other and render the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, to ensure adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So currently, if the hydroponic nutrient solution sold on the market is only one part, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and should not be too much. Generally, when the root system is well developed, part of the roots should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either, as too little requires frequent replenishment, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer of about 5-10 cm deep is sufficient.

5. Do hydroponic flowers at home need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, since hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day per week is sufficient.

6. Does each type of hydroponic flower need its own nutrient solution?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type requires a corresponding nutrient solution. It is sufficient to select different nutrient solutions based on different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. Currently, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, remove the soil-grown flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because the fish kept together with flowers are mostly small species, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root exudates from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, they are more likely to overeat and die, and adding feed also tends to cloud the nutrient solution and reduce the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When to replenish or replace the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: This depends on the rate of water consumption by the plants. If the weather is dry and the plants are large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished about every 15-20 days, adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; just add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
Home hydroponic flower experience sharing

As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, odorless and clean. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, reducing labor in flower care. 3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decoration. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can be stabilized at over 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong evergreen, spotted dumb cane, monstera, calla lily, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant, wandering jew, coleus, Brazil wood, parlor palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, etc. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and other flowering plants work well with hydroponics. Boston fern, calendula, petunia, red-back hiptage, and others have low survival rates as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water will do. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, etc. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect before use. 2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as: pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Timing for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies by flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be done in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best done when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, etc. are often hydroponically grown in early January, so that the full blooming period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Obtaining and processing hydroponic materials. 1) Root washing method. Select potted plants with plump shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Remove from the pot and soil, wash the root soil with water close to room temperature, and cut off decayed and aged root strands? For densely fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes? This both sterilizes and disinfects, and promotes new root growth. After that, proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water cutting method. Select robust, pest-free semi-woody branches from the current year, cut them off and insert them in water for hydroponics. The cutting site is usually 2-3 mm below a stem node. The cut should be smoothed with a sharp knife? Wiped with white liquor beforehand for disinfection. And remove the lower leaves of the branch. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water for hydroponics and water changes. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-precipitating, and contains various trace elements necessary for plant growth. Boiled cool water is next. It is best not to use tap water, as it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial for flower growth. 2) Water changes. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and the roots produce mucus. The water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning, and much of the nutrient solution added to the water has been absorbed by the plants. Excessive residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, water must be changed regularly. And the change in water quality is directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change water once every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus from the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; too deep easily causes oxygen deprivation and root rot, too shallow easily causes root water shortage and affects growth.

6. Adding nutrient solution for hydroponics. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will develop. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are concentrates and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies by flower species, so read the instructions carefully. 2) Each type of specialized nutrient solution must be used for its intended purpose, avoiding mismatches. For example, applying orchid nutrient solution to clivia will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; simply changing water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as pothos, spotted dumb cane, etc.

Pest and disease control techniques for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics breaks free from soil-borne pest and disease infection, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases from the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc. If not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Due to the special nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for pest control, nor large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill pests and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the priority for possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases as much as possible. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture or rinsing with tap water can be used to remove them. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular circular wet stain-like lesions, which are caused by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned to prevent spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot and stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration too high, or inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch, and lower leaves to yellow and drop. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot more likely, which is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. For the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How to care for static hydroponic flowers with detached nodes and rotten roots? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deprivation and rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses causing leaf spot disease in hydroponic flowers, leaves yellow and drop in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached nodes and rotten roots, the plant renewal method can be used: cut the still healthy upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with detached nodes, as long as it does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, etc. can all use this method.

Complete manual for home hydroponic flowers

Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and convert to static hydroponic cultivation with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after rooting, cultivate with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plants and bromeliads. These small plantlets can be picked off and directly hydroponically grown.

4. For flowers that produce many tillers, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tillers can be used for hydroponics.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no drainage holes.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients essential for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macronutrients: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Micronutrients: disodium EDTA 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 mL).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is less than 0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a container, pour in hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a uniquely charming static hydroponic flower.

When preparing nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare nutrient solution. Both have been strictly treated, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens, and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the composition of the water source changes, contains nutrient elements in unstable amounts. Therefore, nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent composition, while nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used to disinfect tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Release the tap water, store it in a larger-diameter bucket for a few days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for a water change, you can add 3 to 5 granules of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) to 10 kg of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers prefer a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which is beneficial for the absorption of trace elements by flowers, so that physiological metabolism is not disturbed, growth is normal, and leaf color is emerald green.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under root oxygen deprivation conditions, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. To improve the quality of flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate diluted solution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution run off, and the underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and spray twice during the growing season, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as peace lily, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, calla lily, etc., during the bud stage, spray the leaves once a week with a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate diluted solution until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded valley areas, and are cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and dropping. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers are more cold-resistant, such as ivy, periwinkle, and candle plant, which grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, some flowers lose their leaf luster, grow sluggishly, and have scorch-like brown spots on leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, coleus, etc. Root rot is common in static hydroponics at high temperatures above 30°C. Of course, this is also related to the decrease in dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in more shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose their leaf color in low-light environments and become dull and lusterless. These flowers can only maintain their leaf color brilliance in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the container and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing toward one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and then move the flowers back indoors after spraying). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run off. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as monstera and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaves. For larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can also increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, are adversely affected in their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and dropping leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to create air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can certainly achieve the temperature required for hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner, which is beneficial for the growth of hydroponic flowers and for human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays especially need to do this work well.

Pest and disease control for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics breaks free from soil-borne pest and disease infection, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases from the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc. If not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Due to the special nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for pest control, nor large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill pests and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the priority for possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases as much as possible. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture or rinsing with tap water can be used to remove them. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not common; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular circular wet stain-like lesions, which are caused by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned to prevent spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot and stuffy high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration too high, or inability to absorb nutrients in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch, and lower leaves to yellow and drop. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot more likely, which is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. For the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How to care for static hydroponic flowers with detached nodes and rotten roots? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deprivation and rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses causing leaf spot disease in hydroponic flowers, leaves yellow and drop in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached nodes and rotten roots, the plant renewal method can be used: cut the still healthy upper branch at 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the lower branch with detached nodes, as long as it does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, etc. can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate to display

Cultivating hydroponic flowers indoors can regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is small and too many flowers are displayed, flowers will compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers are appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered that based on room area, planting one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m is more appropriate. By this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can satisfy viewing needs without causing flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their cleanliness, beauty, and ease of care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, the following four "musts" should be noted:

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types unsuitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of less drought-tolerant terrestrial plants are all relatively suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, philodendron, wandering jew, lucky bamboo, etc.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need higher temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with slight cold protection include monstera, purple-leaf inch plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, parlor palm, broadleaf lady palm, etc.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil and immediately supply them to the flower market after washing the soil off the roots. Although such flower materials look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so they must be carefully identified when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright and spirited branches and leaves, and plump, glossy leaves are conducive to showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The hydroponic flowers of "Hydroponic Flower King" are very simple to manage daily. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they do not require extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaf surface in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaf surface, wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely free from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil like soil-grown flowers, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are free from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials for planting. We can not only appreciate the flowers and leaves, but also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their varied beauty, which is very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, technology easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to cultivate water roots through planting baskets, nor does it need earlier computer or electric field induction. It only needs very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers, which greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit margins, and increases product competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting baskets are used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. Thus, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow indoors at home with hydroponics, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully hydroponically cultivated, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly 400. If you have sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then theoretically any plant can be hydroponically grown, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and eco-friendly, can keep flowers and fish together

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results. Practice has proven it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, it is not easy for mosquitoes and insects to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-grown potted flowers, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Practice has proven that the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and eco-friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissues in their bodies, and the oxygen produced during photosynthesis can be sent through these air-conducting tissues to the root system for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen plants need from the air; some flowers, although they do not have air-conducting tissues or aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of normal growth and development for some flowers, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and never cultivate blindly, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower types adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with certain ornamental value; for plants grown in soil, after washing with water, most of the original roots can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong evergreen, Dieffenbachia, silver king, golden queen, clustered Philodendron, mini monstera, monstera, peace lily, green emerald, Philodendron, fiddle-leaf Philodendron, green emperor Philodendron, arrowhead plant, calla lily, anthurium, jade emerald, etc.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: purple-leaf inch plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bamboo-leaf, wandering jew, etc., all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown as water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: aloe, triangular aloe, Haworthia, spider plant, cordyline, dragon tree, Madagascar dragon tree, snake plant, agave, golden-edge lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edge evergreen, silver-edge lilyturf, etc.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as: Aeonium, Sedum spectabile, silver jade, jade plant, Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba japonica, Cyperus alternifolius (umbrella plant), Coleus, purple velvet plant, blue pine, Begonia maculata, Begonia masoniana, green emerald, Clivia, Paphiopedilum (lady's slipper orchid), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Senecio cineraria (dusty miller), Senecio articulatus (candle plant), Pereskia, triangle bamboo, Vriesea, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, Trachelospermum jasminoides (star jasmine), Euphorbia, Euphorbia tirucalli (pencil cactus), Vinca major variegata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Senecio macroglossus, Hedera helix (English ivy), Hedera helix (common ivy), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), etc.

When selecting the types of hydroponic flowers, in addition to considering their ability to adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of the Dieffenbachia genus and Codiaeum variegatum (croton) require overwintering temperatures above 15°C; Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), and Dracaena species also require overwintering temperatures above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter, this certainly poses no problem, but for most households, it is still very difficult to bring these flowers safely through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not die entirely after overwintering, due to low-temperature cold damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, losing their proper luster, leaves turn yellow, leaf tips or leaf margins become scorched, or new scorched spots appear on the leaves, and may even cause massive leaf drop or partial death of branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there is no stable condition for heating, attention must be paid to selecting flower species with strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Rohdea japonica (Japanese sacred lily), Trachelospermum jasminoides (star jasmine), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Agave, Aucuba japonica, jade plant, sea onion, Liriope platyphylla variegata, etc., which can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Tradescantia pallida (purple heart), bamboo, Aloe, Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant), silver jade, Cyperus alternifolius (umbrella plant), purple velvet plant, Senecio cineraria (dusty miller), Chloranthus, Euphorbia tirucalli (pencil cactus), Vinca major variegata, Hedera helix (common ivy), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), etc., which can safely overwinter with slight protection during the winter.

Of course, some flowers such as Philodendron erubescens (red emerald philodendron), Philodendron erubescens (green emerald philodendron), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Sansevieria trifasciata (snake plant), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), etc., although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation in warm spring.

Shade tolerance

Since indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that prefer partial shade or tolerate partial shade. At the same time, even shade-preferring or shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Tradescantia pallida (purple heart), Tradescantia zebrina (inch plant) need sufficient scattered light, but Spathiphyllum (peace lily), green giant, Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), silver king, etc. all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Since different rooms and different lighting conditions within a room vary, suitable flower species should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location, to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, stems to become thin, internodes to lengthen, leaves to become smaller and deformed, lose green color and lose their proper luster, colored stripes on leaves to fade, and even cause massive leaf drop, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.

Hydroponic spider plant techniques

Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant), with fresh green leaves and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layered or double-layered. For a single-layer bottle, take a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle and plant the spider plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, take a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or ground-planted spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, pest-and disease-damaged leaves), keep healthy leaves, generally keeping 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for water supply. Let the spider plant stand upright, pour clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots soak in the water to grow. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, place ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and pour clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is complete, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week. When changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, fill with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Through adding water and changing water, flower nutrient solution is added at the same time. For foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: The spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When flowering, do not spray water on the flowers to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote re-flowering.

The outstanding plant for static hydroponics

Araceae plants have 105 genera and more than 2500 species, originating in tropical Asia, arising in the waters or swamps of forest regions. After a long historical evolution, the vast majority have currently developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia (calla lily), Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophytic species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop aerenchyma in stressed environments.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severely oxygen-deficient state. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting plant species, that is, ones that have close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically manifested as:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophytic evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in aquatic environments. Pistia is almost distributed across the freshwater waters of all continents of the Old and New Worlds, and is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae. It is a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a "negation" of their aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another "negation," which is the dialectical law of "negation of the negation." It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding plants for static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which consists of floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolve forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, following an approximate spiral curve.
3. The relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel development relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor (primitive lily types) with Arecales and Commelinales, and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding plants for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, due to management and other reasons, plants often develop root rot. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will deteriorate water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and discolored, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone by hand, and the epidermis is very easily torn off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, it should be cut off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually rots upward from the root tip. After pruning, continue until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully. If root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight arrangement, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes full use of materials, but also greens the surrounding environment, with a considerable charm of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-laminated square beverage boxes, etc. These were originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "well"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the root system can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (non-woven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used for clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the seedling to be hydroponically grown or the purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (leftover scraps cut from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material, available in yellow and yellow-with-white) to thicken it, so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above things are available, floral foam, properly cut, can also serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapped around the root system together with the exposed roots into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. Note that the nutrient solution level should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. With the capillary suction of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system as nutrients. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance from the liquid level to the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae, which would compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent the liquid temperature from rising substantially due to sun exposure, it is best to have shading measures, or place it in a place not exposed to direct sunlight.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white hard polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shockproofing, or corrugated cardboard boxes or wooden boxes with a certain strength, etc. can be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be substituted.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Open a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, as long as the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it, while exposing about 1/2 cup height, it is fine. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6-16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, open a small hole with a diameter of 2 cm, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal times.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board that is 2.5-3 cm smaller on all four sides than the inner net area of the box and 2.5-3 cm thick, as the floating board. Open some small holes with a diameter of 1-2 cm regularly on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness) on the floating board, or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25-50 g/sq m non-woven fabric, for capillary absorption of nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterilized absorbent gauze can also be substituted. The area of the capillary-absorbing cotton layer should extend about 6 cm beyond each side of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), soaking into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four sides of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of initial planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space inside the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3-5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change substantially, or there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, until fully renewed.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow good growth. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do it, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not flow down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant) and Clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a damp towel, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clean water beside the flower, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There should be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, are adversely affected in their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, with no doors or windows opened indoors, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need, nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth becomes worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and shedding of leaves, and new shoots becoming weak and shriveled. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner, which is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant and shade-preferring foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need relatively strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate sufficient nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Codiaeum variegatum (croton), will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak-light environment, becoming dull and lusterless. Such flowers can maintain leaf color luster only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined and completed when cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius the tissues will undergo necrosis. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, the indoor temperature in winter generally does not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; and in the north, because most interiors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and also need soil replacement once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer during the slow growth period of autumn and winter.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can endow blooming cyclamen plants with multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponically growing cyclamen. In this way, the preparatory work is complete, and you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water, or the plant together with the substrate can be placed in a basin of water and the substrate swished off in the water, then rinsed clean with tap water. Note that throughout the process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, trying to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, add water, and the beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of cyclamen plants. This all depends entirely on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Hoya

Hoya has always been cultivated in soil. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: 1) labor-saving; 2) hygienic; 3) few pests and diseases; 4) simple management; 5) long flowering period; 6) roots, leaves, and flowers can all be appreciated, etc.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-planted Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest-and disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few attractive river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the prepared Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day, and after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days; second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water; third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and then once a month thereafter, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution injection, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower hydroponics and water culture

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it, without supplying nutrients. The main flowers suitable for water culture are narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second, change the water frequently, insisting on changing water once every 2 to 3 days (lucky bamboo once every 7 to 10 days), to maintain sufficient oxygen content in the water and improve root activity; third, maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, on the other hand, have plant roots fixed on the cover board or floating board of the flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be provided with reasonable inorganic nutrients. Therefore, flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structures of flowers suitable for hydroponics are suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia, spider plant, Schlumbergera (Christmas cactus), Brazil wood, Rohdea japonica (Japanese sacred lily), clustered taro, Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), jade plant, Tradescantia zebrina (inch plant), Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), etc.

Northeastern University of China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as Clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, Anthurium, and Hippeastrum, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. There are also some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as tiger tongue orchid, that have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

For truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed, the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's water-root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. Hydroponic flowers should have the nutrient solution added or replaced once a week, and note that the pH value should be controlled between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic techniques

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods, and several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: characterized by the plant root system being fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution placed in a plastic bag can cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white on the outside and black on the inside, wrapping the plant to form an internally dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: The nutrient solution is atomized and sprayed around the plant root system, the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used, with the surroundings of the bottle wrapped in black plastic film, or coated all over with black paint, or covered with a layer of black paper, to the degree that the inside of the bottle is light-proof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, a layer of white paper should be wrapped around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, open a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, but it should not be too full; leave a gap for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water propagation to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just inject water, and after roots grow, change to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing the solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change it once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks during the non-growth season.

Ventilation: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, ventilation can be omitted for more than 1 month continuously.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Monopotassium phosphate 0.44 g/liter; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/liter; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/liter; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/liter; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/liter; trace elements 2 ml; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-6.5)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/liter; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/liter; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/liter; trace elements 2 ml; monopotassium phosphate 0.27 g/liter; Fe-EDTA 2 ml.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 ml of water, then make up to 1000 ml.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from the selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable environment it roots, sprouts, and grows into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Epipremnum aureum (pothos), lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other substrate cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then change to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Place the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, while also cleaning the roots and vessel, and after a week reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and you can change the water once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Tiller bud stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as Clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple, and the survival rate is high. Select a relatively large tiller bud, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller bud from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the roots of the tiller bud well), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

④ Runner small plantlet picking method: Some flowers grow runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets, most of which have a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plant and Vriesea. Using this characteristic of the flowers, pick the formed small plantlets for hydroponics, which is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Clivia, Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Tillandsia, Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Tradescantia spathacea (Moses-in-the-cradle), lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulb flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, Hippeastrum, and gladiolus, etc.

Strategies for the difficult points of summer care for hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficult points of hydroponic flowers getting through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use a non-solid medium (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism is vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, possibly causing root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even causing the entire flower to die. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass through summer.

Water cultivation of silver-edged grass

2. How to increase the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution?

Answer: There are many methods to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following introduces several methods that are easy to operate and effective.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest method to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, which can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder of the flower root system.

When changing the solution, the root system should be patiently rinsed with clean water, withered roots and rotten roots removed, and aged roots shortened to promote new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, new nutrient solution should be replaced immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers with relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poorly developed root systems, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in static water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulating pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. During operation, the nutrient solution circulates and flows in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an "oxygen bar," and their growth is clearly better than static hydroponics.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and solution changing are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerating the container

If you keep hydroponic flowers and also have an aquarium of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the aquarium air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put an air stone into the container of the static hydroponic flowers to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, so as not to splash the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen works quite well too.

III. Where is a suitable place to put hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Most of the flowers chosen for hydroponics are shade-tolerant foliage plants and plants grown for both flowers and leaves. Such as Syngonium podosum, Rohdea japonica 'Baiyu', Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, Bromeliaceae, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, tolerate slight shade, and dislike high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits or the environmental factors they need. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in a bright, slightly humid, cooler environment with good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not keep them too shaded either, lest photosynthesis be blocked, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaves become thin. This causes the leaves of variegated and patterned flowers to lose their luster.

IV. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly in front of the air conditioner's air outlet. Too fast an airflow will harm the branches and leaves, causing leaves to curl in mild cases and scorched edges and wilting in severe cases. Also consider that the flowers' temperature requirements are higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, this is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase ambient humidity, and place the flowers farther from the air conditioner's air outlet. If the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

V. What should be done if hydroponic flowers have root rot?

Answer: As the temperature rises continuously, the water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution so that the dissolved concentration is too high can also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants Cordyline fruticosa, Cordyline stricta (fine-leaved thousand-year wood), and Cordyline fruticosa 'Rainbow' (five-color thousand-year wood).

The following methods can restore the growth of flowers with root rot:

① Remove all the rotten roots. If the stem has already been infected, also use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Soak the trimmed flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Put the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1-2 days, replacing only with clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

⑥ The newly sprouted roots should still be grown in clean water at first. Once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when the temperature is high, the container is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the time between nutrient solution changes is too long, algae can multiply in large numbers. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, causing the quality of the nutrient solution to decline. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the flowers' normal physiological activities, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush away the algae attached to the roots, and replace with new nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in our country are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae and is called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

VII. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless culture. The flower roots are anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution culture.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers need different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six bottles, or even a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers of different varieties are grown at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matched plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements). The various elements are balanced in proportion, the inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the scope of application is wide. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, are non-toxic and harmless, and their pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with uneven quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution culture or only clean water culture in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution culture; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water culture. For example, Spathiphyllum, Epipremnum aureum, mini Monstera, Philodendron 'Red Emerald', and Philodendron, etc., are suitable for nutrient solution culture to maintain their growth advantage and enhance their ornamental quality. For flowers such as Coleus, Begonia maculata, and Bromeliaceae, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass the summer safely.

When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not increase the concentration at will. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers sprouted under hydroponic conditions has changed, being looser than under soil cultivation, with larger cells. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

VIII. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Choose varieties that are more closely related to hygrophytic flowers. ② Choose flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as Syngonium podosum, mini Monstera, Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Giant', Epipremnum aureum, and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing it, and cultivate in a larger container. Change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wanshou bamboo, native to Brazil and West Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, dark green, with sheath-like petioles. Common ones include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo dracaena, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

Likes high temperature and high humidity; the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise the leaves will be scorched.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, the leaves will scorch. During the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaves.

2: Suitable with sufficient scattered light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from the leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Likes high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and overwintering should be above 10°C.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless culture is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless culture of azalea and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea; the soilless-cultivated plant had a compact crown structure, many flowers, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite sand, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder, mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water. After drying, mix it evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, cover again with plastic film for one month, and then it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azalea has relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 L water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, and 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 L water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 mL trace element mother solution to 1 L standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, and 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 L water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than in soil culture, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the bud and leaf bud sprouting stage, and the fertilizer requirement is relatively large, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds break, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large; besides watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilization amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azalea is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately according to the dryness and wetness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, pests and diseases basically did not occur.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with bamboo-like nodes, and covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Likes a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division together with repotting. Choose a large, dense clump. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut the roots as little as possible, and keep each divided plant with a certain plant shape. Then repot, water thoroughly, and place in a semi-shaded, humid place. Spray water on the leaves frequently. After growth resumes, normal care can be carried out.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves easily appear; when ventilation is poor, parasitic insects breed.

2: During the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaves.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Potted root-washing is suitable. The roots of broadleaf lady palm are relatively hard in texture and are not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for purple velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick stems and many branches. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with goose-down-like purplish-red fine hairs. The purple velvet plant is brightly colored, beautiful, and elegant, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes sufficient sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shaded, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, choose thick, strong branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting, place them in a shaded, humid place; they can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch the tips in time to promote the sprouting of side branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. But at high summer temperatures, root rot easily occurs.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches reach an appropriate height, pinch the tips in time to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for parlor palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short, small plant. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and full of luster.

Habits

Likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. At 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum winter overwintering temperature is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn scorched yellow, but when too shaded, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces its ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in just a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus ball

We know that cactus balls are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus balls use traditional cultivation methods, they have problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage. More people lose their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of cactus balls has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, we must choose a cactus ball with a robust body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus balls cultivated by grafting on three-angled sword are easier to hydroponically cultivate.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the ball body, and require the cut to be flat. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the nutrient solution height just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (a transparent container makes it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth of a waste purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can protrude from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat bottle containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled sword into the triangular holes, and at this time the roots of all the three-angled swords just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution, thereby speeding up the growth of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and energize it to realize oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will sprout in 3-7 days. Immediately replace the nutrient solution after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus balls, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it easily causes the ball body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing clivia hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can appreciate the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth diameter should not be too large.

② The cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating in clean water, note that foliar fertilization is needed to supply the nutrients required for clivia growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The number of solution changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, note to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow amaryllis hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis (Hippeastrum) bulbs that have already bloomed or not yet bloomed, cut off all the roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white or green layer, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the mushy substance from the cut surfaces with clean water, dry them in the shade, and place them in a container. The container can be a bowl, a pot, or a narcissus basin, etc. Place washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing rocks, etc. inside, then set the prepared amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The water depth should be enough to cover the small stones or other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the container. Finally, place it in a well-lit indoor spot. Keep the room temperature at around 10°C. After about 7-10 days, leaves and roots will begin to grow. The water level in the container must always be maintained at the original level. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer should be added promptly. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solutions containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into a flower pot for routine care. Bulbs treated this way through water culture bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, exactly coinciding with the summer period when flowers are scarce.

Technical Management of Water Culture

1. What is water culture?
Answer: Water culture, also called soilless culture or nutrient solution culture, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solutions and supporting facilities instead of soil to grow crops. Most water-cultured plants also use inert solid substrates such as sand, gravel, peat, and perlite to fix the plants and increase air content, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since the beginning of human cultivation history, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word for agriculture is "Agriculture," a combination of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used three different types of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, leading to the conclusion that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless culture, successfully growing plants with artificial nutrient solutions made from inorganic salts. They called this method water culture, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless culture technology.

◆2. What are water-cultured flowers?
Answer: Water-cultured flowers are flowers grown using soilless culture techniques. Water-cultured flowers are further divided into water-cultured flowers with media and water-cultured flowers without media. Water culture with media refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; water-cultured flowers without media are further divided into direct water culture flowers, floating water culture flowers, planting basket water culture flowers, atomized water culture flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by aesthetics, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct water culture is the most stylish, beautiful, and simple, so the water-cultured plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct water culture form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to the success of water-cultured flowers?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as media, soilless culture has already become a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to timely test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. However, in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if water-cultured flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home water-cultured flowers should be soilless culture without media. Without media, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to avoid root rot, odor, and abnormal smell while growing normally under oxygen deficiency. In addition, the hygiene requirements of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and must be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires the nutrient solution to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that plants can grow well in office and home environments. Moreover, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botanist, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, water-cultured flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless culture technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare. Moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies regard their nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas available from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used for production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the displayed plants are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because, as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can water-cultured flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues will necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, water-cultured flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are a few days of extreme low temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most indoors have heating, the safe overwintering of water-cultured flowers can also be satisfied.

◆5. Can water-cultured flowers only be certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all common popular flowers can be water-cultured. However, in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown, and households with balconies have more suitable varieties.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in water-cultured flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Water Culture Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a sample of fish raised in water-cultured flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, only water-cultured flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for raising fish, and due to limited volume, fish species should also be selected. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Fish with strong aggression or destructiveness are also not suitable for raising in water-cultured flowers, because they will damage plant roots; delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even raising them in specialized aquariums is difficult to succeed, let alone in relatively poor conditions in a small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. When feeding, it is the same as when we normally feed fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Water Culture Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so there is no need to install oxygenation equipment on days that are not particularly hot.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for water-cultured flowers?
Answer: Water Culture Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, tap water can generally fully meet the requirements, and there is no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During dilution, tap water can be directly used to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Water Culture Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate quickly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left standing indoors for a period of time to prevent the plant roots from being damaged by sudden temperature changes, which could cause root hair damage and plant wilting.

◆8. What is planting basket water culture?
Answer: Planting basket water culture is a water culture method that uses the principle of plant roots' hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction with sufficient water. This is shown when a plant lacks water in the surface soil; in order to protect itself, its root tips will grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for plant growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. In contrast, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow more chaotically without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the bonsai growing toward the water. At this time, you do not need to add water; let the roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be more obvious. Similarly, you can remove a bonsai that has already grown water roots from its pot and fix the plant with a planting basket, decorate it with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a pot of planting basket water-cultured flowers. The difference is that because there is no soil now, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do water-cultured flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become less and less. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more, so water-cultured flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultured flowers; soil-cultured flowers need fertilization and also need to change soil once a year for the same reason. For water-cultured flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do water-cultured flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or grow poorly?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or too weak light. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution water level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the case, then we suggest you consult a Water Culture Flower King specialty store.

Exposing the Water-Cultured Flower Market -- Distinguishing True from Fake Water-Cultured Flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchise stores for water-cultured flowers, causing a great uproar across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to maintain the healthy development of water-cultured flowers in our country, seeing all this, I cannot help but complain. Because the scams involved not only harm consumer interests but will also cast a shadow over the water culture industry. Currently, it is a low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants can be kept in water for a period after their roots are washed and directly soaked in water. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can be kept in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A water culture work bought for dozens or hundreds of yuan and brought home is only a fleeting show. It not only harms consumer interests but will also greatly affect the development of the water culture industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. When winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and weaken respiration. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After root washing and direct soaking in water, no obvious discomfort can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul, and rot. For other terrestrial plants with slightly stronger terrestrial characteristics, this method simply cannot work, so this is the main reason they can currently only use Araceae plants for "deception." Their so-called induction liquid would be better and more honestly called "deception liquid." It is fundamentally impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a commercial hype. If the goods are genuine, there is nothing to criticize; if the technology is unique, it could also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But the current kind of franchising can be called swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just root washing and soaking in water, which even a fool can see how to concoct at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, water culture technology itself has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to a certain company. Franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other water-cultured flower stores can operate just as well, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once franchised, the franchise fee is also as good as thrown away. Truly water-cultured flowers are not suitable for long-distance transportation. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultured seedlings after root washing. It might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Note: Araceae plants can also be kept in water for a period after root washing and soaking in water in late autumn, winter, and early spring. Everyone might as well try it; there is no need for deception liquid at all.

I have studied water culture for many years and have also visited several countries with relatively developed water culture technology abroad. The current water culture market in our country can be described as full of charlatans of all kinds, the genuine mixed with the fake. However, in the end, these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep their eyes open and not be induced by deception liquid.

How to Distinguish True from Fake Water-Cultured Flowers

True and fake water-cultured flowers are essentially the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many water-cultured flower operators do not understand water-cultured flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some conventional soil-cultured plants as water-cultured plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social impact. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort not long after being grown, seriously hindering the healthy development of the water-cultured flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish true from fake from the following aspects to avoid being deceived.

A. Judge by root morphology: Induced water-cultured flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots and will not, like roots in soil, be divided into main roots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs, that is, they will not exist in the state of multi-level branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few levels and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious feature. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction, the number of primary adventitious roots increases significantly, that is, the root proportion greatly increases, and the root system is numerous and developed, resembling a beard.

B. Judge by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties that show their original root color, their water roots are obviously lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, light yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have not undergone, or have undergone little, suberization and lignification thickening.

C. Judge by root integrity: Roots induced by water culture begin regrowth and differentiation from primary adventitious roots, and all are completed in the water environment, so they have root integrity. For some soil-cultured plants, although they have been carefully rinsed, there are always slight injuries or severely residual roots. This root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge by water clarity: Fake water-cultured works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, will, under anaerobic conditions, undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, it appears turbid and not clear, that is, water quality deteriorates or becomes foul, and then the root system rots until the seedling dies.

E. Leaf angle can also distinguish true from fake: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene show, after induction, a leaf insertion angle that is obviously more flat than soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth leads to an increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the Dissolved Oxygen Content of Water Culture Nutrient Solution

Aside from the requirements for light, temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors being exactly the same as soil cultivation, water-cultured flowers have vastly different management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen. Water: Home water-cultured flowers should use soft water as the water source, and generally tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment; it is clean and hygienic, with a pH below 7, and can be safely used for growing water-cultured flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees and seriously eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly. If one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for water-cultured flowers. Fertilizer: Home water-cultured flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution mainly based on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Water-cultured flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with balanced proportions of various elements, and inorganic salts in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, which is conducive to nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for water-cultured flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more impermissible to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for water-cultured flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home water-cultured flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, with dissolved oxygen below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the water culture nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of nutrient solution changes. 2. Oxygenate by vibration: fix the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a micro submersible pump or oxygenation pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are promoted to grow robustly.

See Through Fake Water-Cultured Flower Technology at a Glance

Water-cultured flowers, with flowers and fish raised together and a combination of motion and stillness, are the first intuitive impression. The earlier concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people earlier grew some easily water-cultured plants such as Araceae plants and lucky bamboo in water, this concept does not belong to the now popular "water-cultured flower" concept!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision successively invested in preliminary research and planning for this industry. Coupled with the broadcast of "Water-Cultured Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Water-cultured flowers can be said to have blossomed everywhere in China, with some providing technical learning and training, some producing at bases, and some opening franchise flower shops. Many fake water-cultured flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, this added fuel to the hype of the domestic water-cultured flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. By 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own technical core and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide, but those who could remain were very few. However, water-cultured flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the uneven quality of the current water-cultured flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the general public who love water-cultured flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the water-cultured flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding for everyone's reference:

II. What Are Truly Water-Cultured Flowers?

From a sensory perspective, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers grown above (currently, the variety scope of water culture technology has been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, etc.), and a few cute small fish raised below, these are water-cultured flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, truly water-cultured flowers refer to those cultivated through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means so that the physiological characteristics of their root systems change, possessing water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and being able to adapt to long-term cultivation in water, only then can they become truly water-cultured flowers (plants)!

III. How to Identify Truly Water-Cultured Flowers?

Judging from sensory impressions:
Report on the Current Status of Water-Cultured Flower Technology I. Introduction:
A successful truly water-cultured plant, after induction and domestication, should have a root system that is white, elegant, with many fibrous roots, and very obviously different from soil-cultured plants. The root systems of soil-cultured plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a few plants whose root systems have unique colors, such as red-leaf loropetalum, whose roots, branches, and stem sections are all dark red after induction! There are also some plants whose roots are nearly white after the soil is removed!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it means it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago, placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from a technical perspective:

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it have a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, only the so-called "induction liquid," "domestication liquid," or "nutrient solution" is needed, and the plant is soaked in water for a few days, a few hours, and some even say only a few tens of minutes or a few minutes are needed to achieve water-cultured flowers, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. As a result, large amounts of fermentation products accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects grow, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only by truly realizing the induction of plant water roots, forming aerenchyma, and producing water-cultured plants that can adapt well to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called water-cultured flowers. The cultivation of water roots cannot be fully completed and achieved by nutrient solution alone; it requires comprehensive biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation and complete adaptation to the water environment, can it become professional truly water-cultured flowers!

2) Does it have a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Water-cultured flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and matching. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and matching of fish, water, grass, and other decorations in the bottle! Whether it is a professional water-cultured flower work, aside from natural sensory appeal, a strong artistic combination cannot be assembled by ordinary beginners! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the producer has such aesthetic level!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing water-cultured flowers and a fixed supply channel?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing water-cultured flowers can also show whether the merchant has the ability for professional water-cultured flower production. If there is neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded producer as a supply source, then such water-cultured flower providers are very likely passing off soil-cultured plants after root washing as "water-cultured flowers"!

Judging by variety:

The varieties of water-cultured flowers that truly professional water-cultured flower producers can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae, such as Alocasia, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera, Rohdea, and other plants that are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are themselves near-water and hydrophilic, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. Professional producers should be able to achieve water culture of various woody plants and various water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single, it is definitely not a professional water-cultured flower manufacturer!

Judging by time:

Time is the ultimate sole criterion for testing water-cultured flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are only a fleeting show, dying after just a few days, many of these are water-cultured flowers that speculators produce within a few hours by washing off soil-cultured roots, and after a few days the flowers bloom and fade! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for their products, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the product, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being deceived!
IV. How to Identify Truly Professional Water-Cultured Flower Producers?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and information transmission to confuse and fool the vast number of consumers and investors. In order to leave no foothold for so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology transfer companies that shoot once and move to another place, which have no real water-cultured flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, and which rent a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the veteran cadre bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, and also to deprive malicious low-price transfers of some immature so-called "water-cultured flower technologies" of their deceptive market, and further so that you can learn these truly genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at several more, and compare more; you must carefully compare unit scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{remember: you must look at their flower shop products, then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try to go to the franchisees to take a look to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final way to judge. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use methods like "medical shills," "school shills," "housing shills," and "wine shills," and fool you with the skill of "Deception Immortal" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; you must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training ability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. In addition to distinguishing whether something is truly a water-cultured flower through product channels, in fact, everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through many speculators one by one. The following experiences and several types


 How to Apply Fertilizer to Water-Cultured Flowers Through Roots

Static water-cultured flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen-deficient conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve flower quality, foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing period, and water-cultured flowers can become lush and flourishing. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as calla lily, tuberous begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, etc., during the bud stage, a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.