How to grow the wax plant (Hoya carnosa)? Master the growing methods and watering precautions

The wax plant (Hoya carnosa) is a flowering plant in the dogbane family (Apocynaceae) with very high ornamental value, and people in many regions of China grow it, but there are many aspects to pay attention to when growing it. How do you grow the wax plant? What are the growing methods and precautions for the wax plant? Let us take you through them below.

I. How to grow the wax plant

II. Growing methods and precautions for the wax plant

1. Soil selection

In the process of growing the wax plant, soil selection is the first step and a fairly important one. Generally we can choose fairly fertile humus soil; this kind of soil has good drainage and aeration, and allows the wax plant to absorb nutrients better.

2. Fertilization requirements

Among the growing methods and precautions for the wax plant, fertilization is a very important point. If you want the wax plant to grow quickly, fertilization is indispensable; during its growing season it basically needs fertilizing once a month, which also lays a good foundation for flowering.

3. Watering requirements

Watering is an essential part of growing the wax plant, but you still need to pay attention to the amount of water when watering; it is best to keep to the principle of letting it dry out between waterings, and never let water accumulate when watering, otherwise it easily causes root rot in the wax plant. Everyone should remember this point.

4. Light requirements

Among the growing methods and precautions for the wax plant, light is also a point that needs fairly much attention. In spring and autumn, when the sunshine is not too strong, we can let it receive light all day; in summer, when the sunshine is too strong, appropriate shading is needed to avoid the wax plant's leaves turning yellow.

5. Pest and disease control

During the growth of the wax plant, if care is improper, pests and diseases and similar problems easily appear. When such problems appear, they must be dealt with promptly; if dragged out too long, they easily cause the plant to wither and die. As for exactly how to deal with them, you can refer to the article on pest and disease control for the wax plant, which has detailed instruction, so we will not introduce too much here.

How to grow orchids, orchid growing methods

The orchid is one of China's traditional top ten famous flowers, with a long history of cultivation; it is mostly grown in pots  to decorate living rooms, studies and bedrooms. When in bloom it has a particularly elegant fragrance, so the Jiangnan  region calls the orchid the “ancestor of fragrance”. If planted in a courtyard, matched with rockeries, winter jasmine, climbing fig and so on, it is beautiful in both fragrance and color  and has quite an antique charm. Its roots, leaves and flowers can all  be used medicinally, with effects such as producing blood, regulating qi, promoting fluid production and quenching  thirst, reducing swelling and abscesses, and regulating menstruation.

The orchid, also called lancao, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the orchid family (Orchidaceae). The roots are fleshy and thick, milky  white, and the pseudobulbs are densely clustered. The leaves are narrow and short, sword-shaped. The flower is solitary, occasionally two, and fragrant. The fruit is a capsule, commonly called lansun, long ovate. The seeds are extremely small, and because the embryo is not  fully developed, conventional sowing rarely germinates.

Common cultivated varieties include: Cymbidium goeringii, also called lancao, flowering in early spring from February〜March. Cymbidium faberi,  also called jiujielan, flowering from April〜May. Cymbidium ensifolium, also called qiulan, flowering from August〜September. Cymbidium  kanran, flowering in winter.

The orchid originated in our country and often grows in well-drained valleys and under sparse forest, and by nature likes a warm  and humid climate, with an environment that is warm in winter and cool in summer being most ideal. The soil should preferably be well-drained  leaf mold, acidic soil with a pH value of 5.5〜6.5. It dislikes high temperatures, dryness and water accumulation.

The traditional growing medium is mountain soil, but now a potting mix made of 30% cinder, 30% sand, 20%  leaf mold and 20“ acidic soil is commonly used. Whichever soil is used, it is best  to steam-sterilize it, or fry it in an iron wok, or spread it out and sun-expose it for several days, to kill  bacteria and disinfect it.

The temperature most suitable for orchid growth is 18〜25 degrees. Within the range of 8〜33"0, the  orchid can grow normally; below 3 degrees and above 35 degrees, the orchid grows slowly.

The orchid by nature likes semi-shade, semi-sun light conditions, and dislikes exposure  to the sun, and fears rain even more. From late spring to early autumn it should all be placed  under a shade frame, and when the summer sun is strong it should be shaded with dense &c  shade. Ventilation and air movement are important living  conditions for the orchid, so summer management is even more important than winter management; the shade frame in summer should preferably face southwest to

northeast, avoiding the strong light at noon; in spring and autumn it is only necessary to avoid the direct

sunlight around noon; after being brought indoors in winter, it should preferably see more sunlight.

As the saying goes, “dry orchid, wet chrysanthemum”; in daily cultivation and management, if you water too much, you go against  the “dry orchid” flower-growing classic, causing water to accumulate in the pot soil, the fleshy roots to rot, and then causing burnt tips, scorched  leaves, and even the death of the plant. The watering principle for orchids should be “water thoroughly once, water again when dry”.  If one watering does not soak through, you can use the immersion method to water. The amount of water depends on the temperature, the light  intensity and the growth condition of the plant. Generally, water less in winter and more in summer. The watering  time is best in the early morning, and in winter best at noon on a sunny day. In summer, never water during showers.

In dry seasons, besides watering, appropriate misting is also needed to increase air humidity. The relative air  humidity is best between 70“〜85“, and must not be lower than 50^. In the rainy season, spray water once every 1〜2 days; in the dry season, spray water 2〜3 times a day.

There has long been a saying, “clear orchid, murky jasmine”; it is suitable to apply thin fertilizer and never apply strong fertilizer. Generally in spring and  summer, nitrogen fertilizer is the main type, and in autumn and winter, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is the main type; organic fertilizer and inorganic fertilizer can be  used alternately. During the vigorous growth period, apply fully rotted, dilute cake fertilizer water 1〜2 times each month.  Because the orchid has fleshy roots, never apply unrotted fertilizer, to avoid burning the roots. Before each fertilization,  control water for 1〜2 days, and apply again when the pot soil is slightly dry; on the second morning after application, water once,  to prevent unclean matter in the fertilizer liquid from contaminating the root system and harming the orchid roots. During the growing period, granular compound fertilizer can also be applied. Fertilization must be done on sunny days; do not fertilize on cloudy or rainy days. In winter, fertilization should be stopped. When fertilizing, take care to avoid soiling the leaves.

The common propagation method is division, carried out together with repotting. Divide once every 3〜4 years, and the division  time should be during the dormant period after flowering. For orchids that bloom in spring, autumn division should be early rather than  late, mostly around “Autumnal Equinox”, and at the latest should not pass “Cold Dew”. For orchids that bloom in summer, it is best to do it  in early spring before new shoots are drawn out. One week before division, stop watering, so that the pot soil is slightly dry and the root  system softens a little; then gently turn the orchid plant out of the pot, and use 2〜3 pseudobulbs as one division  unit. Each divided orchid plant should have new shoots; then place it in a cool place, let the wound dry, and plant it again when the roots  turn white and are in a dry state.

The main disease is black spot. When black spot first appears, black dots appear on the leaf surface and gradually expand,

and in severe cases most of the leaf turns black. Its cause is generally excessive watering and poor ventilation.  Besides cutting off diseased leaves and burning them promptly, you can spray a 50^ carbendazim 800-fold dilution  or a 70“ thiophanate-methyl 1 000〜1 500-fold dilution.

When selecting orchid plants from the market, you should pay attention to choosing fresh orchid plants, that is, the leaves should be fresh green,  the root system must not have lost water, and there must certainly be no shriveling. In addition, try to choose large clumps of orchid seedlings, that is,  orchid seedlings with multiple pseudobulbs connected together; single isolated seedlings are generally harder to cultivate.

What to do after the Phalaenopsis orchid finishes flowering: growing methods and precautions for Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis is a plant that does not like water constantly around its roots. So what should you do if the Phalaenopsis orchid at home has finished flowering? Below we will solve this problem for everyone and tell you the growing methods and precautions for Phalaenopsis.

What to do after the Phalaenopsis orchid finishes flowering?

1. If your Phalaenopsis was bought by yourself or given by a friend around Spring Festival and was already in bloom when bought, it will basically have no flowers left by now (around the end of March). If you want it to continue flowering, you can choose to keep the flower stalk, take it out of the pot to check the root condition, promptly cut off any rotten or dry roots, check whether the sphagnum moss has rotted, become moldy or otherwise deteriorated, and consider whether it needs replacing; still pot it in a transparent pot, water and care for it normally, letting it dry out between waterings; if the humidity at home is a bit higher, that is naturally even more ideal (it does not matter if it is not), and if you have a special liquid fertilizer at home, giving some is naturally even better (it does not matter if you do not); if the plant is very strong, it will quickly continue to grow new flower buds at the front end of the original flower stalk; if the plant is fairly weak after flowering and has consumed a lot, then with normal care, around May it will grow side stalks on the original flower stalk and produce flower buds, continuing to open until around the end of June (this flowering period will be shorter because the climate gradually becomes hotter). After flowering, cut off the flower stalk and just care for it normally.

2. If it is one you grow at home, it generally begins to grow flower stalks and flower buds around December of the previous year (in a room with heating), generally opens gradually at the end of February and beginning of March, and the flowering period continues until around the end of May. Then the method is the same as (1); if you want to see the flowers once more, keep the flower stalk and care for it normally, and it will quickly grow side stalks on the flower stalk, produce buds and open.

3. Whether bought or home-grown, if after the first flowering you do not want it to continue flowering (this can preserve the plant's strength), promptly cut off the flower stalk, still check the roots and growing medium, then care for it normally, and by the end of the year new stalks will naturally sprout and flower buds will frequently appear.

4. Many people think Phalaenopsis is very hard to care for because they feel it needs a warm, high-humidity environment, and in fact this is true. Having such an environment is naturally a blessing for Phalaenopsis. But Phalaenopsis is very tough; even without such an environment, it is still easy to care for in the north. You can pay attention to the following points:

(1) First, it must get through summer smoothly. If possible, place it in a place with bright light but not direct sunlight as much as possible; reduce the water supply (although summer temperatures are high, if there is too much water it easily causes root rot and plant death); if you feel you do not know how to fertilize (thin fertilizer applied frequently, preferably a special liquid fertilizer for Phalaenopsis), you can always use clean water for care, especially in summer, and try not to fertilize or fertilize less; after summer, to be safe, you can check the roots and growing medium again, to ensure the basic elements for normal plant growth;

(2) Whether autumn management is good or bad is an important factor affecting Phalaenopsis flowering. Entering autumn, you can apply thin fertilizer frequently to make the plant strong; at this time you can appropriately increase light, and the northern climate in autumn has a temperature difference between morning and evening, which exactly prompts Phalaenopsis to develop flower buds. Autumn is dry, so maintain appropriate moisture. If conditions allow, you can use misting to increase air humidity (it does not matter if you do not mist).

(3) Normally in winter, around the end of December, new flower stalks should grow and gradually produce flower buds. During care, wind must strictly be prevented from blowing directly on the flower buds; at the same time it is best to stop fertilizing and control water, to prevent improper application of fertilizer and water from causing bud drop. If the heating indoors is too high, you can increase misting to maintain humidity (it does not matter if you do not mist).

(4) Usually pay attention to observing root growth. Living roots are the basic element sustaining plant growth. If the root color is green, strong, firm, and the root tips are red, it shows vigorous vitality; if you find roots breaking out of the pot, it means there is a problem with the growing medium or care and adjustment is needed; if the root system turns black and rots, it means there is too much water; if some roots show symptoms of drying up, it means there is excessive lack of water. Under normal conditions the leaves are bright, glossy, thick and firm, showing good growth, and new shoots will constantly grow.

Growing methods for Phalaenopsis:

1. Temperature

Growing Phalaenopsis at home first requires ensuring temperature. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment; during the growing period the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C, and the suitable growing temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16~30°C. At the turn of autumn to winter and winter to spring, and when winter temperatures are low, attention should be paid to raising the temperature. Generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not hard to reach, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it.

When summer temperatures are on the high side, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation. If the temperature is above 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperatures should be avoided. Around Spring Festival is the full flowering period; appropriately lowering the temperature can prolong the viewing time, and when flowering the nighttime temperature is best controlled between 13~16°C, but must not be lower than 13°C.

2. Humidity

Phalaenopsis originated in primeval forests, with more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis has no thick, large pseudobulbs to store nutrients, so if the air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface wrinkles and becomes weak and limp. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be grown and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment.

The suitable growing air humidity for Phalaenopsis is 60%~80%. During the vigorous new-root elongation period, water more; during the dormant period after flowering, water less. In spring and autumn, water once every day around five in the afternoon; in summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at nine in the morning and five in the afternoon; in winter, when light is weak and temperatures are low, watering once every other week is enough, and it is best done before ten in the morning. If a cold wave hits, do not water; keep it dry, and resume watering after the cold wave passes.

The watering principle is to let it dry out between waterings; when the surface of the growing medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, you can use a sprayer to mist directly onto the leaf surface; it is enough for the leaf surface to become moist, but note that when misting during the flowering period, the water mist must not be sprayed onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before being used for watering.

3. Light

Although Phalaenopsis prefers shade fairly much, the orchid plant still needs to be able to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period; appropriate light can prompt Phalaenopsis to flower and make the flowers bright and long-lasting. Generally it should be placed in a spot indoors with diffused light, and direct sunlight should not be allowed.

4. Ventilation

The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so when growing Phalaenopsis at home, ventilation must be good, especially during the high-humidity period in summer; good ventilation must be used to prevent heatstroke, and at the same time it can also avoid infection by pests and diseases.

5. Fertilization

Phalaenopsis should be fertilized all year round; unless low temperatures last for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilizer easily leads to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growing period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7~10 days; organic fertilizer is suitable, and a special nutrient solution for Phalaenopsis can also be used, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise it easily causes early bud drop. In summer, when it grows leaves (that is, after the flowering period), you can apply additional nitrogen and potassium fertilizer. In autumn and winter, during the flower stalk growing period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it must be dilute, applied about once every 2~3 weeks.

The fertilization time is after watering in the afternoon; after fertilizing several times, use a large amount of water to rinse the orchid pot and orchid plant, to prevent residual inorganic salts from harming the roots.

6. Management

The flowering period of Phalaenopsis is generally around Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2~3 months. After the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, which can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stalk is cut off at the 4th~5th node from the base, it can bloom again after 2~3 months. But this consumes too much of the plant's nutrients and is not good for the next year's growth.

If you want it to bloom well again the next year, it is best to cut the flower stalk off from the base. When the growing medium ages, it should be replaced in good time, otherwise aeration worsens, causing root rot and weakening the plant's growth or even death. Generally it is suitable to repot in May when new leaves grow out.

Precautions for Phalaenopsis:

1. Watering too frequently: friends who grow Phalaenopsis always worry that it lacks water, and no matter whether the growing medium is dry, they water every day, causing severe root rot.

2. Temperature too low: usually flowering Phalaenopsis plants are mostly marketed in early spring, and after being bought home they are generally placed in living rooms and other places for viewing; although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is a bit on the low side. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly in well-equipped greenhouses; by comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are both somewhat insufficient, so the plant's growth tends to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well it is cared for, the orchid still has times when it does not bloom.

3. Excessive fertilization: fertilizing whenever there is fertilizer, and not paying attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make it grow fast. You should know that Phalaenopsis should be given thin fertilizer, in small amounts and many times. Remember that “tonic feeding” must not be excessive, otherwise it backfires.

4. Planting a small plant in a large pot: thinking that using a large pot can give Phalaenopsis a loose environment and sufficient material. In fact, after using a large pot, the sphagnum is not easy to dry; you should know that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, and when air flows freely it is comfortable.

5. Dry flower buds: most Phalaenopsis nowadays are forced into bloom, and after leaving the base, once the environment changes, the problem of dry buds easily appears. At this time do not think it is dryness, do not water more, but increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature; the temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose ones with thick petals.

Phalaenopsis is prone to soft rot and gray spot disease. Soft rot is extremely contagious; once discovered, immediately isolate the diseased plant. Diseased plants can be treated with mancozeb or thiophanate-methyl, usually sterilizing once every 15 days. The common growing media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum and moss, so the potting material should not use soil, but should use sphagnum moss, pumice, tree fern chips, crushed charcoal and so on.