How to grow wisteria bonsai? Master the cultivation methods and watering precautions
Wisteria is a very beautiful flower. It can be grown at home or planted on a large scale. However, there are many things to pay attention to when growing this plant. If it is not grown properly, some problems can easily arise. So how do you grow wisteria bonsai?
Wisteria is a very beautiful flower. It can be grown at home or planted on a large scale. However, there are many things to pay attention to when growing this plant. If it is not grown properly, some problems can easily arise. So how do you grow wisteria bonsai? What are the cultivation methods and precautions for wisteria? Let me walk you through them below.
I. How to grow wisteria bonsai
To know how to grow wisteria bonsai, we first need to understand its growth habits. It is a temperate plant, so light is very important during cultivation. In addition, watering, fertilizing and other aspects cannot be neglected either. As for the specific cultivation methods and precautions for wisteria, they are introduced below. Let us take a look together.
II. Cultivation methods and precautions for wisteria
1. Soil requirements
In the cultivation methods for wisteria, the choice of soil is very important. Although it has strong adaptability to soil, choosing a suitable soil is still very helpful for its growth. Generally, we can choose relatively fertile humus soil. This kind of soil has very good drainage and can allow wisteria to absorb nutrients better.
2. Fertilization requirements
Fertilizer is one of the main nutrients in the growth process of wisteria. Especially during its peak growing season, its demand for fertilizer is very high. However, when fertilizing, there is one thing to note: fertilizer must be diluted before application so that wisteria can absorb it better. If concentrated fertilizer is applied directly, it can easily burn the plant and cause the leaves to turn yellow. Everyone should pay attention to this.
3. Watering requirements
In the cultivation methods and precautions for wisteria, watering is also a very important part. This plant prefers a warm and moist environment, so during cultivation it must be watered frequently. When watering, make sure to water thoroughly, but remember not to cause waterlogging, because wisteria's main root is very deep. If too much water is given and waterlogging occurs, it can easily cause root rot. So everyone should pay attention to this.
4. Light requirements
As mentioned above, wisteria is a light-loving plant, so during cultivation its demand for light is relatively high. In spring and autumn, when sunlight is suitable, we can let it receive light all day. However, in summer, when sunlight is too strong, it is best to move it indoors to a semi-shaded place for cultivation to avoid burning the plant. It can be seen that in the cultivation methods and precautions for wisteria, light is still quite particular.
5. Pest and disease control
During the cultivation of wisteria, if it is not grown properly, pests and diseases can easily appear. Such problems are extremely harmful to wisteria. They not only greatly affect its appearance, but in severe cases can even cause the plant to die. Therefore, when encountering such problems, they must be dealt with promptly. The specific treatment methods are introduced in detail in the article on pest and disease control for wisteria, so I will not repeat them here.
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledge
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledgeI. Benefits of growing flowers at home
1. Add interest to life. Make life more vibrant, benefit physical and mental health, cultivate noble sentiment, and inspire emotion for life. Meeting friends through flowers brings great joy.
Flower-viewing seasons - enjoy flowers in spring, fragrance in summer, fruit in autumn, and greenery in winter.
Flower-viewing grades - appreciating with tea is best, appreciating while talking is second, appreciating with wine is lowest.
Flower-viewing standards - color, fragrance, form, charm.
2. Improve the living environment and implement green environmental protection.
(1) Green plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Every square meter of green plants absorbs 90g of carbon dioxide and releases 60g of oxygen per day.
(2) Absorb harmful gases
Absorb formaldehyde - snake plant, spiderwort, ivy, spider plant, aloe.
Absorb benzene - ivy, chrysanthemum, sago palm.
Absorb chlorine - orange jasmine, chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, false betel nut, fan palm.
(3) Sterilizing effect of volatile oils from fresh flowers
The fragrant aroma of jasmine and lilac can kill native bacteria in 5 minutes.
(4) Regulate temperature
Green plants in urban greening areas can absorb up to 6080 calories of sunlight in summer, lowering the environmental temperature by 3.8°C, shortening the duration of high temperatures each day by 3 hours, and vertical greening on walls can reduce wall surface temperature by 5°C.
II. Home flower growing methods and commonly used plants
1. Courtyard flower growing
Combine trees and shrubs with flowers and grasses; combine deciduous plants with evergreen plants; combine foliage viewing with flower and fruit viewing; combine ornamental value with practical value; fully develop three-dimensional space, with seasonal changes in scenery bringing a fresh sense.
Plants suitable for small courtyard planting:
(1) Small trees:
Osmanthus, banana shrub, camellia, citrus, loquat, bamboo, crape myrtle, cherry blossom, crabapple, lilac, maple, pomegranate, jujube, persimmon, etc.
(2) Shrubs:
Gardenia, serissa, pyracantha, nandina, wintersweet, Chinese rose, tree peony, azalea, crabapple, redbud, daphne, hydrangea, hypericum, etc.
(3) Herbaceous plants:
Banana, wandering Jew, saxifrage, dwarf lilyturf
Iris, daylily, Chinese peony, hosta, torch lily, Michaelmas daisy, phlox, dahlia, lily, narcissus, tuberose, amaryllis, rain lily, zephyr lily, canna, red wood sorrel, dichondra, Manila grass, hybrid bermuda grass, stringy stonecrop, scallion, kalimeris, chrysanthemum greens.
Lotus, water lily, narcissus.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(4) Vines:
Rosa banksiae, honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, ivy, wisteria, Boston ivy, grape, kiwifruit, morning glory, cypress vine, etc.
2. Balcony and indoor flower growing
Adapt to the characteristics of pot cultivation and select suitable varieties. Master soil, fertilizer and water management to ensure safe overwintering and summering. Take measures according to plant traits respectively, so they grow luxuriantly in all four seasons, and seasonal flowers match the occasion. Arrange the room ingeniously, improve floral art skills, and regulate the joy of life.
Plants suitable for balcony and indoor planting:
(1) Foliage plants:
Spider plant, ivy, wandering Jew, arrowhead vine, periwinkle.
Rubber tree, small sago palm, bamboo palm, areca palm, pygmy date palm, asparagus fern, croton, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, bamboo fern
Bromeliads, marantas, ferns, umbrella plant
Pothos, Philodendron, Cordyline, Dracaena fragrans, Aglaonema, lucky bamboo, Pachira aquatica (money tree),
Caladium, begonia, etc.
(2) Flowering plants:
Chinese rose, winter jasmine, plum bonsai, potted crape myrtle, daphne, jasmine, orange jasmine, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, hibiscus.
Clivia, amaryllis, lily, hyacinth, narcissus, red wood sorrel, calla lily, cyclamen, freesia, ranunculus.
Chinese orchids, tropical orchids, chrysanthemum, gerbera, begonia, petunia, nasturtium, pelargonium, fuchsia, Impatiens walleriana, Impatiens hawkeri.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(3) Fruit-viewing plants:
Nandina, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, calamondin.
Pyracantha, wolfberry, small pomegranate.
Jerusalem cherry, ornamental pepper, strawberry.
(4) Cacti and succulents
Cactus, golden barrel cactus, Christmas cactus, crab claw cactus, epiphyllum, orchid cactus
Agave, snake plant, ponytail palm (Agavaceae)
Lampranthus, rainbow bush, Oscularia, living stones (Aizoaceae)
Aeonium, Echeveria, jade plant, Kalanchoe, longevity flower, stringy stonecrop (Crassulaceae)
Aloe, Haworthia, Peperomia (Liliaceae)
Crown of thorns (Euphorbiaceae)
Elephant bush (Portulacaceae)
(5) Vine plants
Honeysuckle, grape
Morning glory, cypress vine, bitter melon.
III. Home flower growing management
Six essentials of flower growing: soil, fertilizer, water, protection, pruning, propagation
1. Soil
Soil is the foundation for the growth of flowers and trees. It is not only a support for fixing plant roots and their growth and development, but also must provide the necessary nutrients, water and air for plant growth.
(1) Soil quality requirements
Fertile, harmless, loose, breathable, water-retaining, fertilizer-retaining.
(2) Pot soil materials
For home flower growing, pot soil materials include not only ordinary soil but also some mineral materials and biological materials. Therefore, the meaning of pot soil is not limited to soil. Thus these materials on which plants depend for survival are often collectively called substrates or media in cultivation. Commonly used substrates include: garden soil, mountain soil, pond mud, sand, worm castings, coal cinders, vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, brick granules, rice husk, rice husk ash, wood shavings, charcoal, grass clippings, bark, cottonseed hulls, peanut shells, pine needles, moss, coconut coir, bagasse, etc.
(3) Soil acidity
The pH of soil affects the growth and development of flowers. Most flowers are suitable for slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6.0-7.0 (soil pH 7 is neutral soil). Flowers such as camellia, azalea, orchid and bromeliads require a more acidic soil environment. They usually require a pH value of around 5-6. Therefore, cultivation of these flowers requires mountain soil rich in humus (orchid soil) to grow well. Dianthus, dahlia, cacti, peppers, pomegranate, grape and kiwifruit have a broad adaptability to soil acidity and can grow in an environment of pH 6-8.
For soil with strong alkalinity, sulfur powder or ferrous sulfate and aluminum sulfate can be added to adjust it. The usual application rate of sulfur powder is 0.1-0.2% of the total soil amount. For soil that is too acidic, lime powder can be used to adjust it, with an application rate of 35-70 grams per square meter of land.
(4) Soil improvement
For soil used for courtyard flower planting, various construction debris within 40cm of the soil surface must be cleared. At the positions of tree pits for planting trees, new soil should be replaced within a depth of 60-80cm. For heavily clayey green areas, coarse sand and organic matter rich in fibrous material should be added to facilitate drainage and increase the air permeability and organic matter content of the soil layer.
The preparation of potted soil should be based on the requirements of the plants being grown, with attention to soil breathability, fertility and suitable soil acidity. Usually, fertile garden soil (heated soil) mixed with rice husk ash at a ratio of 2-3:1 is made into a cultivation substrate. However, for urban flower growing, limited by conditions, it is not easy to obtain high-quality culture soil. In that case, urban household waste such as fallen leaves, sawdust, peanut shells, bean shells, eggshells, bagasse, poultry feathers, fish bones, shrimp shells, etc. can be collected, cut and crushed, then mixed with rice washing water, placed in an old jar or plastic bag, and after a long period of fermentation and decomposition, dried, sieved, and mixed with some raw soil (soil excavated from roads and infrastructure projects) to prepare potted nutrient soil. The old soil replaced after repotting can also be mixed with household waste, piled and composted, and reused.
Strictly speaking, potted soil quality needs disinfection. For home flower growing, a simple sunlight disinfection method can be used: in summer, spread the soil flat on a cement surface, cover it with plastic film, and expose it to strong sunlight for 3-4 days. This can kill a large number of pathogenic spores, mycelium, pest eggs and nematodes in the soil. In addition, if conditions permit, heat disinfection and chemical disinfection can also be used.
2. Fertilization
Fertilizer is the source of nutrients needed for flower growth and directly affects the growth and development of flowers. For different plants, at different growth stages, applying the required nutrient elements at the right time and in the right amount can make flowers grow with luxuriant branches and leaves and bloom abundantly.
The 16 nutrient elements needed for flower growth
Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen (obtained from air and water)
Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium
Iron, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine
(1) Types of fertilizer
Organic fertilizer - fertilizer formed from animal and plant residues or excrement after processing, fermentation and decomposition. Organic fertilizer contains complete nutrient elements needed by flowers. After being applied to the soil, the nutrients gradually decompose. Although the effect is slow, the fertilizer effect is long-lasting. It can also improve the soil and benefit root development and the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms. Commonly used organic fertilizers include: livestock and poultry manure, fish meal, bone meal, plant ash, various cake fertilizers and sesame oil residue, etc.
Inorganic fertilizer (chemical fertilizer) - fertilizer made by chemical methods or processed from natural minerals. It has the advantages of high nutrient content, quick effect, convenient use, cleanliness and sanitation, but its nutritional composition is single, and long-term use can easily cause soil compaction. Commonly used ones include: urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, etc., as well as processed compound fertilizers containing the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
(2) Preparation of organic fertilizer for home flower growing
Courtyard composting - use a shaded corner of the courtyard, dig a pit, and pile up daily leftover vegetable stems and leaves, bean shells, melon and fruit peels, herbal medicine residue, eggshells, shrimp and crab shells, poultry feathers, fish scales, fish innards, weeds, fallen leaves, etc. for composting. To prevent odors from escaping, cover with mud or plastic film.
Home bottle preparation - use small-mouth waste plastic bottles such as cola bottles and cooking oil bottles as containers, put in fish scales, fish innards, eel, shrimp shells and other animal scraps, and after fermentation and decomposition, make a high-quality liquid quick-acting fertilizer. Spoiled yellow soybeans can also be soaked and fermented. When preparing bottle-made organic fertilizer, note: 1. The amount of fish scraps added should be about 1/2-2/3 of the bottle capacity. Add water to near the bottle mouth (leave a certain gap).
1. To reduce the odor during fertilizer fermentation, a portion of orange peel can be added at the same time. Generally, a 2.5-liter cooking oil bottle can hold 3-4 orange peels. The orange peel can be torn into pieces or cut finely before putting in. Fresh orange peel or air-dried old orange peel can be used.
3. After preparation, the bottle cap must be tightened and then unscrewed back 2-3 threads to leave an air gap. Otherwise, due to fermentation inside the bottle, gas expansion may blow off the cap, causing an unbearable situation with odors spreading everywhere.
4. Bottle-made organic fertilizer needs 4-5 months to ferment in summer, and generally about one year to fully decompose. Its liquid can be diluted with water and used to water flowers.
Use of broad bean shells - green broad bean pods are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrient elements, are easy to collect in cities, and are clean and sanitary. When preparing, the pods can be sun-dried, crushed and stored for later use. They can be mixed in when making potted culture soil, or used as base fertilizer when repotting potted flowers or planting.
(3) Rational fertilization
1. Base fertilizer, top dressing, foliar fertilization
Base fertilizer - mainly organic fertilizer with slow decomposition and long fertilizer effect. It is used for the whole annual growth period of flowers. For courtyard flower growing, in winter or early spring, dig trenches or holes around the main planted flowers and trees and bury it deeply, or apply it when the soil is plowed before planting. For potted flowers, it is mixed in when preparing culture soil, or applied to the bottom of the flower pot before planting. Commonly used base fertilizers include compost made from decomposed animal and plant residues, dried livestock and poultry manure, decomposed cake fertilizer fragments, etc. In cities, the oil residue left after pressing small mill sesame oil can be used and has good fertilizer effect. Some also put fried or cooked soybeans into the middle and lower layers of potted flowers as supplementary base fertilizer.
Top dressing - use quick-acting inorganic fertilizers that can be quickly absorbed and utilized by flowers, or the leachate after fermentation of organic fertilizer, and add it when needed at each stage of flower growth and development. Commonly used ones include urea, monopotassium phosphate, etc.
Foliar fertilization - also called root-outside top dressing. Chemical fertilizer is dissolved in water and sprayed on the plant so that nutrients penetrate into the plant through the leaf underside. It has the characteristics of convenient operation and quick effect. When applying, note: the concentration of chemical fertilizer should be kept at 0.1-0.2%; too concentrated will cause harm to plants. For flowers grown on balconies and outdoors, the time for spraying fertilizer should be in the evening to prevent intense sunlight after fertilization from increasing fertilizer concentration and causing fertilizer damage. When spraying, pay attention to the leaf underside.
2. Fertilization principles and methods
Suitable for the flower, suitable for the time, suitable for the condition, suitable amount; apply thin fertilizer frequently
Suitable for the flower - foliage plants need more nitrogen fertilizer; fruit-viewing and flower-viewing plants need more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the time - when sprouting branches and leaves, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; before flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation and flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the condition - "four more, four less, four no"
Apply more when yellow and thin, apply more before germination, apply more before budding, apply more after flowering. Apply less when fat and strong, apply less during germination, apply less during flowering, apply less during the rainy season. Do not apply when newly planted, do not apply when leggy, do not apply when diseased or weak, do not apply in midsummer.
Suitable amount - thin fertilizer: for organic fertilizer use 7-8 parts water plus 2-3 parts fertilizer; for chemical fertilizer use 0.1-0.3% concentration
Apply frequently: once every 7-10 days during the growing season.
Three taboos of fertilizing - first, avoid concentrated fertilizer, which causes cell sap to seep out and leads to death.
Avoid hot fertilizer: in summer at midday the soil temperature is high, and top-dressing damages the roots.
Avoid sitting on fertilizer: after applying base fertilizer at the bottom of a flower pot, first cover it with a thin layer of soil.
Then plant the flower. Never let the roots sit directly on the fertilizer.
3. Watering
Watering is the main management task in home flower growing. Water is an important component of plants and an indispensable main substance for physiological activity.
(1) Watering in the courtyard
In dry seasons you must replenish water to keep the soil moist; in rainy seasons you must pay attention to drainage to prevent the roots from suffocating and dying due to waterlogging and lack of oxygen.
When watering, keep the difference between water temperature and soil temperature to no more than 5°C; in summer it is best to water in the early morning and evening, and in winter around midday.
(2) Watering potted flowers
① Watering principle - alternate dry and wet, do not water when dry, water as soon as it looks dry, and water thoroughly when you water.
Alternating dry and wet means keeping the soil sometimes dry and sometimes moist. This ensures a water supply for the flowers and trees while also letting the potting soil breathe, protecting root development.
The standard for "dry" is that the upper layer of potting soil is dry while the bottom soil still has some moisture, and the plant grows normally or its leaves wilt briefly at midday.
When flowering plants lack water, the first sign is wilting of the petals. If you notice leaves and flowers losing water, you must replenish water immediately to restore their vitality.
The principle of watering thoroughly means the amount of water should be enough to see water seeping out from the bottom of the pot; half-way watering, where the upper soil is wet and the lower soil is dry, is a major taboo in potted flower management, because the moist surface of the potting soil masks the reality of water shortage, causing root death from lack of water. Plants that have been cut off from water are very hard to revive even if watered to rescue them.
(3) More or less watering.
Water more for herbaceous plants, less for woody plants; water more for moisture-loving flowers, less for drought-loving flowers;
Water more for large, soft leaves, less for small, waxy leaves;
Water more during the vigorous growth period, less once dormancy begins:
Water more when the seedling is large and the pot small, less when the seedling is small and the pot large;
Water more on balconies, less in courtyards; water more in summer, less in winter; water more in dry sunny weather; water less on cloudy days;
Water more at the bud stage, less when flowering.
(4) Rescuing drought-dehydrated and waterlogged root-rotted plants
When woody plants are dehydrated from long-term drought and their stems and leaves wilt but the stems still have life, first move them to a shady place to reduce water evaporation from the plant. Spray water to maintain humidity around the above-ground parts. After watering the roots, do not water continuously, to prevent root oxygen deficiency. Following the principle of alternating dry and wet, keep the soil aerated to encourage new root growth and restore vitality. For severely dehydrated plants, prune appropriately according to the state of above-ground growth, which helps them sprout and leaf out again.
When prolonged rain causes water to accumulate in the pot and the plant suffers waterlogging, with branches and leaves wilting and losing vigor, take the plant out of the pot with its soil at once and place it in a cool, ventilated spot to let the root soil moisture evaporate; after 3-5 days, once growth resumes, repot it. During continuous rainy weather, outdoor potted plants can be laid on their sides to avoid water accumulation. After long rainy weather, if it suddenly clears and the sunlight is strong, exposing the plant to the sun can seriously dehydrate and kill it, because root growth has been damaged and the branches and leaves transpire too strongly. So pay attention to strictly controlling water, moving the plant's position, and shading it to help it recover.
(5) Different watering methods
When watering potted flowers, most should avoid overhead pouring. If the flowers and leaves of gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), African violet (Saintpaulia) and others are splashed with water, it causes rotting of the flowers and leaves. Bromeliads, however, need overhead watering so that water is stored in the leaf cups to meet their growth needs. Orchids and Marantaceae plants, besides proper watering, need misting to raise the air humidity of the growing environment.
For indoor foliage plants, water requirements vary greatly according to differences in the growth characteristics of their places of origin. Araceae plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum and calla lily (Zantedeschia), ferns, and Cyperus alternifolius are moisture-loving flowers; watering should follow "better wet than dry", but do not let water accumulate. Succulents such as snake plant (Sansevieria), aloe and Sedum, along with cacti, are drought-loving flowers; watering should follow "better dry than wet", to prevent root rot from too much water. Most other plants, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), sago palm (Cycas revoluta) and begonia (Begonia), are intermediate-type flowers; soil that is too dry or too wet both cause adverse reactions, so watering can follow the principle of "alternate dry and wet".
4. Protecting flowers
Home flower growing requires protecting flowers so they safely pass through summer and winter, and preventing and controlling pests and diseases.
(1) Passing through summer and winter
The suitable growing temperature for most flowers is 15-25°C; when the air temperature exceeds 40°C or falls below the minimum temperature that different flowers can tolerate, the flowers will be harmed.
① Passing summer safely
The high temperatures and intense sunlight of summer often make some temperate plants unable to adapt to the severe heat, and make some shade-loving plants prone to sunburn. Therefore, in home flower growing you can use methods such as shading, ventilation, misting and adjusting the placement of potted flowers to improve the environmental impact and lower the temperature, so that the flowers pass the summer safely.
② Passing winter safely
Frost damage and freezing damage in winter greatly affect flower growth, and some cold-sensitive flowers die from frost. In autumn, plants are still in the growing period, and some flowers suffer damage to all their leaves and buds as soon as the first frost comes. In spring, after dormancy, plants begin to sprout and bud, and being hit by a late frost at this time also causes very serious damage. In the Suzhou area, the first frost generally appears in early to mid-November, and the last frost is at the end of March to early April; so during this period, to prevent frost damage and freezing damage below 0°C, for flowers that are easily harmed, courtyard cultivation can be protected by earthing up or covering with plastic film. Balcony potted flowers can be protected by building a plastic shed against the south wall; in the evening when it is very cold, the top and sides of the shed should also be covered with woven bags or burlap and other coverings for warmth. Already
For balconies enclosed with installed glass, cold-sensitive plants such as Milan (Aglaia odorata), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Impatiens holstii and croton (Codiaeum variegatum) should be moved indoors and covered with transparent plastic bags to protect them through the winter. To increase the cold resistance of flowers and trees in winter, management should restrict watering, but water still needs to be replenished at the right time as conditions require; due to neglect in management, home flower growing in winter often also results in death from drying out.
(2) Pest and disease control
For pest and disease control in home flower growing, you should grasp the principle of "prevention first". Strengthen management, improve the ventilation conditions of the growing environment, do a good job of fertilizer and water management and pruning, so that flowers and trees grow vigorously and strengthen their own resistance to pests and diseases, and promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
① Insect pests
Insect pests fall into two types according to how they feed.
Chewing pests:
They damage roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits, and the damaged parts show notches, holes and even cavities. Such as cabbage caterpillars, slug moths, longhorn beetles, and white grubs (scarab beetle larvae).
Use stomach-poison and contact-poison pesticides such as deltamethrin, trichlorfon, fenvalerate and phoxim.
Sucking pests:
The pests pierce into the plant body with their mouthparts and suck out sap. Such as aphids, scale insects and red spiders (mites).
The damaged stems and leaves show symptoms such as spots, shriveling and discoloration.
Use contact-type and systemic pesticides for control, such as dimethoate and propargite.
③ Diseases
There are mainly three types of pathogens causing plant diseases.
Fungal diseases:
Caused by fungal attack; mold-like and powdery substances can be seen growing on the host surface.
Symptoms include damping-off, seedling blight, spots, scabs, mold rot and wilting.
The main chemicals used include carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl and chlorothalonil.
Bacterial diseases:
Caused by bacteria; leaves show water-soaked, semi-transparent lesions that are limited by the leaf veins.
Tender organs become necrotic, appearing slimy and giving off a foul odor. In diseased stems showing wilting, a cross-section reveals browning of the vascular bundles.
The main chemicals used are: jinggangmycin, agricultural streptomycin and others.
5. Pruning
Pruning and shaping flowers and trees can regulate growth, flowering and fruiting; pruning can also improve ventilation and light conditions and promote robust growth of branches and leaves. Common methods in home flower growing include pinching, branch pruning, bud removal and leaf removal.
(1) Pinching is often used on herbaceous flower seedlings. After the main stem of a herbaceous flower is removed, it helps promote the sprouting of lateral buds and increase branching, achieving the goal of a dwarfed plant with many branches and many flowers. It can also adjust the flowering period. It is often applied to chrysanthemums, scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), petunias and marigolds.
(2) Branch pruning. There are two ways to prune branches. One is to remove branches from the base, called thinning. Thinning is cutting out overly dense branches as well as crossing branches, water sprouts, weak twigs, pest- and disease-damaged branches and dead branches, which helps the tree's ventilation and light penetration and strengthens the plant's growth vigor. The other way is to shorten branches, called heading back. Heading back can prompt lateral buds on the branch to sprout and adjust growth vigor, favoring flowering and fruiting. For roses, in winter the branches are headed back to about 20-30 cm, which can control the plant's height and make spring flowering abundant and uniform. Heading back the water sprouts of wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) can promote the sprouting of lateral branches and form the flowering branches of the following year. Different flowers and trees have different growth habits; on some the terminal buds of branches form flower buds, on others the lateral buds form flower buds, so heading back should also adopt correspondingly different methods.
(1) Bud removal. During the growing period of flowers and trees, adventitious buds often appear; if left to grow they consume nutrients, disturb the tree shape and affect ventilation and light penetration, so they need to be removed in the early stage of bud sprouting. On grafted roses, the sprouts on the root-sucker parts are all wild rose and must all be removed.
(4) Leaf removal. For some foliage plants, such as spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Aspidistra elatior and calla lily (Zantedeschia), some old leaves should be removed in good time to promote new leaves. For jasmine, after it is brought outdoors in spring, removing old leaves can promote many new shoots and new leaves, vigorous growth and many flower buds.
6. Propagation
In home flower growing, propagating your own new plants and new seedlings adds even more pleasure to growing flowers. Common methods include sowing, cuttings, division, layering and grafting.
(1) Sowing
Seeds must be collected after they are fully mature.
Dry, low-temperature storage conditions can extend seed life; for home storage, seeds can be packed in plastic bags and stored in the refrigerator's crisper.
Biennial herbaceous flowers that bloom in spring are sown in mid-to-late August. Annual flowers that bloom in autumn are sown in spring from late March to early April.
After sowing, the soil covering thickness should be 2-3 times the height of the seed.
Seed germination requires temperature, moisture and air. Generally 20-25°C is most suitable for germination; the sowing bed soil must not become compacted or waterlogged, so as to provide the oxygen needed for germination.
After the seedlings emerge, once they have 2-4 leaves they should be transplanted.
(2) Cuttings
This makes use of the regenerative ability of plant organs such as roots, stems, leaves and buds after they are separated from the mother plant, to cultivate new plants.
The soil (medium) used for cuttings must be loose, air-permeable and harmless; for home propagation you can use materials such as rice husk ash, yellow sand, perlite and vermiculite.
For stem cuttings of woody plants, choose fully grown current-year branches, take material 10-15 cm long with 3-4 buds, and insert it 5-6 cm into the soil. The cut at the lower end of the cutting should be at a node. Cuttings from dormant branches are taken 10-15 days before sprouting. Softwood cuttings with leaves can be taken throughout the growing period once the new shoots have matured. But the leaves on the above-ground part should be appropriately thinned to reduce transpiration and favor rooting.
For herbaceous plant cuttings, choose fully developed tender stems; wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), petunia, Impatiens holstii, Impatiens hawkeri, scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) and marigold all root easily.
Most succulents can be propagated by leaf cuttings.
For home cuttings, use a flower pot as the cutting bed, line the bottom of the pot with tile pieces to help drainage, keep the soil moist at all times, and keep the cutting pot out of direct sunlight. If you can mist frequently to maintain a certain air humidity, it can be placed in the sun; rose cuttings in summer can root in about 10 days.
(3) Division and bulb division
For some perennial flowers and shrubs, such as daylily (Hemerocallis), iris, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), Cyperus alternifolius, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), after several years of growth the clump expands; in early spring or autumn you can dig up the clump and divide it into several individual plants. When dividing, keep as many roots as possible on each plant and reduce the area of the cut wounds.
Bulbous flowers such as tulips, lilies, narcissus, gladiolus and red-flowered oxalis (Oxalis articulata) can be propagated by separating out the small bulbs.
(4) Layering
For flowers and trees such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica) and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), you can take a branch close to the ground, without detaching it from the mother plant, bend it down and press it into the soil, prompting the middle stem node of the buried part of the branch to root. Layering is usually carried out in March-April; the buried part needs to be notched or ring-barked, to favor the callus tissue at the wound site producing new roots; in autumn cut it below the rooted part to grow a new plant.
On the upper part of the flower or tree plant, choose a branch about 0.5-1.0 cm in diameter, and ring-bark it, with a ring width of 0.3-1.5 cm. On the outside use a bamboo tube or plastic bag, filled with an air-permeable, moisture-retaining material, to promote rooting at the ring-barked part; this is called air layering. The suitable season for air layering is before the plum rain.
(5) Grafting (omitted)
The key to successful grafting lies in: the nutritional status of the grafting material, compatibility, the temperature and humidity environment after grafting, and grafting technique. The two commonly used methods are stem grafting and bud grafting.
IV. Home floral art
1. Flower arranging
Flower arranging uses fresh flowers as the main material and, through certain techniques, forms a living work of art, making the home environment more pleasing to the eye and full of vitality. For the flower arrangement, the following key points should generally be grasped.
(1) Alternating heights Each flower stem's position should vary front to back and in height; never place them in the same straight line or on the same plane.
(2) Spacing with variation The flower stems or leaves should not be arranged at equal distances from one another; there should be both sparseness and density.
(3) Combining the solid and the void Flowers are the solid, leaves are the void; with both flowers and leaves, flowers as the main body and leaves as the foil. You can also use small flowers such as baby's breath as a foil, giving the whole composition a hazy feel.
(4) Echoing up and down, back and forth The flower stems above, below, left and right should echo one another around the main flower stem, so that the stems maintain overall unity and balance.
(5) Light on top, heavy below When combining flower stems, buds go on top and fully open flowers below; light-colored flowers on top and dark-colored flowers below; small flowers with graceful form on top and large, spherical flowers below. This makes the composition balanced and natural.
(6) Scattered above, gathered below In a combination of many flower stems, the upper flowers can be spread out and the lower flowers should be gathered together.
European-style flower arranging forms elaborate geometric patterns, with gorgeous, vivid colors, embodying the beauty of artificial art and pattern. Eastern-style flower arranging tends toward elegance and simplicity in its flower stems, esteeming nature, being plain and refined, and rich in profound meaning.
2. Bonsai
Bonsai uses tree stumps, mountain rocks and the like as raw materials and, through artistic processing and careful cultivation, reproduces the spirit of nature in a pot. It is often called "silent poetry, three-dimensional painting".
(1) Tree-stump bonsai
The shaping of a tree stump should show vigor and antique simplicity; the techniques to grasp are:
The lower part must show claws - expose the roots below the tree above the soil.
The middle must be wrinkled - bend the trunk; avoid straightness. The bark should have cracks or wrinkles.
The top must form clouds - the crown's flowers and leaves are luxuriant like clouds.
When planting two trees together in one pot, it is best to have one large and one small, like an old one carrying a young one; the old tree is full of feeling, the young tree is graceful and orderly, like people standing together, looking at each other. With three or more, it is most taboo for the roots and tops to be uniformly aligned, shaped like a tied bundle of firewood; they must yield to each other left and right and interweave naturally.
(2) Landscape bonsai
With mountain rocks as the main body, it expresses the profound artistic conception of natural landscapes. The capacity of the bonsai should embody "one peak makes Mount Tai a thousand fathoms, one spoonful makes rivers and lakes ten thousand li". Its value lies in showing the great within the small, captivating the viewer.
Landscape bonsai should apply the principles of perspective, with near things large and far things small, near things solid and far things void, to make the scenery magnificent and profound. According to the principle of seeing the far within the near, landscape bonsai layouts fall into three types:
① High distance - looking up at the mountain from below the mountain is called high distance.
The mountain rocks should occupy about 6/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak's height to the pot rim's height is 20-25:1.
Often a single block of mountain rock is the main subject, or a lower foil is added slightly near the main body to set off the main scene.
③ Deep distance - peering at the mountain rocks from in front of the mountain is called deep distance.
The mountain rocks generally occupy about 5/10 of the pot surface.
The ratio of the main peak's height to the pot rim's height is 15:1.
The mountain group is arranged lengthwise in a zigzag shape, jagged and interlocking, solid in front and void behind, layer upon layer. The mountain peaks seem to show and seem to hide, appearing and disappearing, making the scene deep and far.
④ Level distance - looking into the distance from a nearby mountain is called level distance.
In a level-distance layout the whole scene is mostly water, with mountains as level ridges and small mounds; the mountain forms are gentle with few ravines, arranged in scattered, winding order.
The mountain supports about 3/10 of the basin surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the basin height is 6:1.
In landscape bonsai, blank space must be handled well; the blank space represents the water surface, so that the water surrounds the mountains and the mountains are enlivened by the water. The mountains are solid and the water is empty: they complement each other. Generally, to show a broad water surface, the blank space accounts for more than 2/3. To show mountains as the main subject, the blank space may account for 1/3.
Landscape bonsai can be accented with figures, birds and beasts, towers, pavilions, pagodas, bridges, boats, and sails. But attention must be paid to proportion and to reasonable harmony and unity with the scenery. The scene can be laid out according to the size scale of "a zhang for mountains, a chi for trees, a cun for horses, a fen for people."
3. Hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in nutrient solution without a growing medium. This is currently a very novel way of growing flowers at home. Its greatest advantages are that it is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, is easy to care for, and also allows you to observe the growth of the plant root system.
Flowers suitable for hydroponics are quite wide-ranging, including aquatic plants, hygrophytes, mesophytes, and a number of plants that are relatively intolerant of drought. For home hydroponics, species with moderate plant shape and beautiful flowers and leaves should be chosen so they can be placed on a desk or table. Commonly used ones include: water hyacinth (water hyacinth), Nuphar japonica, Cyperus alternifolius, Syngonium podophyllum, pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, Rhapis excelsa, spider plant, English ivy, narcissus, hyacinth, hippeastrum, tulip, nasturtium, Calathea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aucuba japonica, and bromeliads.
Hydroponic containers can use various transparent glass vessels; for simple home growing, mineral water bottles can also be used. Placing some colored glass balls in the container can both fix the root system and add color to the growing vessel.
A simple general formula for hydroponic nutrient solution: per 1000 g of water, add 0.74 g calcium nitrate, 0.48 g potassium nitrate, 0.12 g monopotassium phosphate, and 0.37 g magnesium sulfate. At home, a 0.1-0.2% urea and monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used. Bulbous flowers and short-term hydroponically grown foliage plants can also be grown in clean water when chemical raw materials are not easy to purchase.
The water used for hydroponics needs to be changed frequently, which can reduce water quality spoilage and increase oxygen in the water. The water level in bottle culture should not be too high; it is best to let part of the base of the roots be exposed to the air to facilitate oxygen uptake.
4. Bottle culture
Use glass bottles, goldfish bowls, and other glass vessels to grow flowers, making a "bottle landscape" or "glass garden."
Plants more suitable for bottle culture are often ferns, spider plant, Tradescantia zebrina, begonia, Cordyline, small-leaf English ivy, Acorus gramineus, cactus-type plants, and succulents. When planting, several compatible plants are often used to create a bottle landscape; the top of the bottle may be sealed or covered. At the bottom of the bottle, first spread charcoal crumbs, sand and gravel, peat, perlite, sphagnum moss, etc. as a substrate, and then plant the flowers. Outside the glass bottle, one can watch a miniature garden grow, full of quiet charm and uniquely styled.
5. Combined pot planting
Combined pot planting is the use of multiple ornamental plants, arranged artistically, planted together in one container to form the collective beauty of flowers. Generally, one container can hold a combination of 3-5 kinds of plants. When combining, attention should be paid to the following.
(1) The plant traits in the combination should be similar. For example, shade-tolerant or sun-loving, moisture-tolerant or not moisture-tolerant, should be grouped separately to make management easier.
(2) Flower shape and flower color should match leaf shape and leaf color. This allows the combined group to create a sense of beauty in color, form, posture, and charm.
(3) The container should harmonize with the arranged plants. The texture, size, color, and shape of the container all affect the style of the potted planting.
(4) In pot combinations, the main plant must first be determined. Generally, the main landscape plant should be placed in the center or at the 2/3 position of a long pot, and then some accompanying plants should be arranged; gaps may also be left and decorated with pebbles or shells. At the edge of the container, trailing plants can also be planted to hang down and conceal the rim.
(5) According to the condition of the container, the combined plants may be planted either after being removed from their pots or left in their original pots.
V. Common misunderstandings in flower growing
Misunderstanding 1: Watering too much
In summer, giving flowers more “drink” is not better the more the merrier. You can water once every morning, and in the evening appropriately water again depending on how dry the potting soil is; try not to water during the day. When watering, water thoroughly, using water flowing out of the bottom of the pot as the standard. For some flowers with fleshy roots, such as clivia, the amount of watering must be controlled; if the flowers “drink” too much, it is very easy to cause root rot. Such flowers also cannot withstand exposure to strong sun; when it is relatively dry at noon, you can appropriately spray some water on the leaf surface. Some relatively drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti and succulents in the Crassulaceae, should “drink” less; too much water easily causes root rot.
Misunderstanding 2: Placing them indoors
Summer sunlight is strong, so simply move the flowers indoors. But they will then grow poorly due to lack of sunlight. Sun-loving flowers are not afraid of strong sunlight, but at noon they still need appropriate shading. If they are neutral, they also need appropriate shading. If they are balcony potted flowers, they can be moved indoors from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day. If they are shade-loving, contact with strong light must absolutely be prevented.
Misunderstanding 3: Fertilizing too much
If too much fertilizer is applied, the flowers cannot absorb it, and instead the root system is harmed. Of course, flowers that generally bloom in summer are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and can be given somewhat more fertilizer, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, balsam, cockscomb, dahlia, etc.; fertilizer can be supplemented during the flowering period to make them flourish with abundant branches and leaves. For some ornamental-fruited flowers such as kumquat and ornamental pepper, applying phosphorus fertilizer after the flowers fade can make them bear more fruit. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber tree and Monstera deliciosa, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to make the leaves greener. Apply thin fertilizer frequently; too high a concentration easily causes fertilizer burn.
VI. Common poisonous ornamental flowers
Oleander
It blooms in spring, summer, and autumn every year. It is a flower that can be ornamental and used medicinally, but can also poison people. Its stems, leaves, and even flowers are all toxic, and if its scent is smelled for too long, it can make people drowsy and reduce mental acuity. The milky white sap it secretes can cause poisoning if swallowed by mistake.
Poinsettia
The whole plant is toxic, especially the white sap in the stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin, causing redness and swelling and allergic reactions. If the stems or leaves are eaten by mistake, there is a risk of poisoning and death.
Narcissus
Growing it at home is generally no problem, but do not break its bulb, because it contains lycorine toxin, and accidental ingestion can cause vomiting and enteritis; the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and special care should be taken not to get this sap into the eyes.
Corn poppy
The whole plant is toxic and contains toxic alkaloids; the fruit is especially the most toxic. If eaten by mistake, it will cause poisoning of the central nervous system, and in severe cases may even endanger life.
Calla lily
The flower is toxic and contains large amounts of calcium oxalate crystals and alkaloids, etc. Accidental ingestion can cause symptoms of poisoning such as coma.
Lantana
Both flowers and leaves are toxic. Accidental ingestion can cause symptoms such as diarrhea and fever.
Datura
Also known as belladonna flower, it is common in rural areas south of the Yangtze River, and accidental ingestion by children can cause poisoning.
Night-blooming jasmine
At night, after stopping photosynthesis, it releases a large amount of waste gas. This waste gas smells very fragrant, but it is harmful to human health. If it is kept indoors for a long time, it can cause dizziness, coughing, and even asthma and insomnia. Therefore, if night-blooming jasmine is placed indoors during the day, it should be moved outside in the evening.
Tulip
The flower contains toxic alkaloids. If humans and animals stay in a clump of these flowers for 2 hours to 3 hours, they will feel dizzy and experience poisoning symptoms; in severe cases, it can also cause hair loss. It is not suitable for planting at home.
Lycoris
It contains lycoris alkaloids, and the whole plant is toxic. Accidental ingestion causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, it can also cause speech impairment and bleeding from the mouth and nose.
Rhododendron
The plants and flowers of yellow rhododendrons contain toxins, and accidental ingestion causes poisoning; the flowers of white rhododendrons contain tetracyclic diterpenoid toxins, and after poisoning people will experience vomiting, difficulty breathing, numbness of the limbs, etc.; severe cases can cause shock and seriously harm human health.
Bauhinia flower
If people are exposed for too long to the pollen it releases, it can induce asthma or worsen coughing symptoms.
Larkspur
Also known as radish flower, the whole plant is toxic, and the seeds are even more toxic, mainly containing terpenoid alkaloids. Accidental ingestion causes poisoning of the nervous system, and in severe cases causes spasms, respiratory failure, and death.
Nandina
It stands gracefully, yet the whole plant is toxic, mainly containing nantenine, nandinoside, etc. After accidental ingestion, it easily causes poisoning symptoms such as whole-body twitching, spasms, and coma.
Mimosa
It contains mimosine. Too much contact with this toxin can cause sparse eyebrows, yellowing of the hair, and even hair loss. Therefore, do not fiddle with it too much with your fingers.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine. After accidental ingestion, it causes pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, and gastrointestinal tract; in severe cases, it damages the vocal cords and makes a person mute.
Wisteria
Its seeds, stems, and bark are all toxic. The seeds contain cytisine. After accidental ingestion, it causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, it can also cause bleeding from the mouth and nose, cold hands and feet, and even shock and death.
Chinese rose
The rich fragrance it gives off can make some people suddenly feel chest tightness and discomfort and difficulty breathing after smelling it.
Lily
If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can over-excite the human central nervous system and cause insomnia.
Cactus-type plants
The spines contain toxic sap. After a person is pricked, it causes allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain, and itching, leading to general discomfort and restlessness.
Pine and cypress
The fragrant scent released by such flowers and trees has an irritating effect on the human gastrointestinal tract. If smelled for too long, it not only affects appetite, but also makes pregnant women feel upset, nauseated, and dizzy.
Orchid
If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can make people overly excited and cause insomnia.
Hydrangea
If people come into contact with the particles it releases, it can cause itching of the skin in some people.
Beautiful ornamental flowers and plants such as crown-of-thorns, balsam, iris, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Codiaeum variegatum, Euphorbia antiquorum, and Euphorbia neriifolia. The cancer-promoting effects of these plants have been confirmed in research on nasopharyngeal cancer and esophageal cancer.
Some plants have overly strong floral fragrances, such as night-blooming jasmine and lantana. Being surrounded by this smell for a long time is unbearable; even for famous fragrant flowers such as narcissus and roses, they may at first feel pleasantly fragrant, but after a long time, especially during sleep, breathing in these scents will become unbearable……
There are also some plants such as poinsettia, poppy, oleander, and Zhuangyuanhong, which release toxic scents, and frequent contact is even more harmful to the human body. Even some flowers and plants that have medicinal effects on people, when kept day and night in close contact with healthy people, are not good for health.
As for evergreen, botanists have determined that it contains some toxic enzymes (commonly known as dumb-stick enzymes). Its stem and leaf sap is strongly irritating when it touches the skin. If an infant accidentally bites it, the strong irritation to the oral mucosa can cause throat edema and even vocal cord paralysis and loss of voice. Therefore, people commonly call evergreen “dumb stick,” and there is a saying, “the flower is pretty, but the poison is hard to bear.”
VII. Simple homemade flower pesticides
Below are some pesticides that both prevent pests and treat diseases, do not pollute the environment, and are easy to obtain and simple to use. You may want to give them a try.
I. Pest control In home flower growing, common pests include aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, thrips, leafhoppers, lace bugs, ants, red spiders, etc.
(1) Ginkgo Crush the fruit in a mortar, add an equal amount of water, and filter to obtain the stock solution. When using, take the stock solution and dilute it with water at a volume ratio of 1:2 and spray, which can control aphids. (2) Oriental arborvitae Wash the cypress fruit, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours, and take the filtrate for direct spraying, which can control leafhoppers. (3) Peach Take peach leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:6, boil for 30 minutes, and take the filtrate for direct spraying, which can control aphids and other mollusks. (4) Tung tree Cut old leaves into pieces, add water at a weight ratio of 1:3-5; or use fruit peel, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, both soaked for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control aphids. (5) Chinese pulsatilla Wash the plant clean, cut it into pieces, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 23 hours, or boil for half an hour, and the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers, and lace bugs. (6) Japanese bindweed Wash the stems clean, cut them into pieces, crush them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers, and lace bugs. (7) Sun spurge Cut the stems and leaves into pieces, crush them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:4, boil for 1-2 hours, and take the filtrate for spraying, which can control aphids and red spiders. (8) Mint Cut mint into pieces, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control leafhoppers and lace bugs. (9) Chili pepper Add water to chili peppers at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil for half an hour, and take the filtrate for spraying, which can control aphids and stink bugs. (10) Tobacco Take tobacco leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours, or boil for 1 hour, and take the filtrate to soak through the potting soil, which can kill ants in the pot; or take the filtrate, dilute it with an equal amount of water, and add a little soap, which can control aphids, red spiders, thrips, and leafhoppers. (11) Sichuan pepper Add water to Sichuan pepper at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil it down to 5 parts stock solution, then dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:10 and spray, which can control whiteflies and aphids.
II. Disease control In home flower growing, common diseases include powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, rot, leaf spot, damping-off, etc.
(1) Masson pine Take pine needles, add water at a weight ratio of 1:2-3, boil for 2 hours until slightly gummy, and take the filtrate, dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:1, which can control root rot. (2) Hibiscus Take hibiscus flowers, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control root rot and damping-off. (3) Ginger Crush ginger and squeeze the juice, then dilute the juice with water at a volume ratio of 1:20 and spray, which can control rot. (4) Chives Crush chives, add water at a weight ratio of 1.6:10, then stir evenly and take the filtrate for spraying, which can control rust and also aphids. (5) Scallion Crush scallions, add water at a weight ratio of 2:1.5, filter and spray, which can control powdery mildew and also aphids. (6) Garlic Crush garlic, add water at a weight ratio of 1:1, stir evenly, then take the juice, dilute the juice with water at a volume ratio of 1:3 and spray, which can control powdery mildew, gray mold, and root rot, and also aphids, red spiders, and other mollusks.
III. Others
(1) Baking soda Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) has the effect of inhibiting fungal growth. Spraying with a 0.1%-0.2% baking soda solution can control powdery mildew. (2) Plant ash Take plant ash, add water at a weight ratio of 3:10, soak for 49 hours, and after clarifying, spray it on the plants, which can control aphids and gray mold, etc. (3) Mosquito coil Light a mosquito coil containing pyrethrins and place it in the flowerpot, then seal the pot with a plastic cover and fumigate for 50 minutes-60 minutes, which can kill red spiders. (4) Essential balm Spray with essential balm diluted 600-800 times, which can control aphids, scale insects, red spiders, etc. (5) Laundry detergent Add water to laundry detergent at a weight ratio of 1:150, stir evenly, and spray once every 5 days, spraying continuously 2-3 times, which can control aphids, red spiders, scale insects, whiteflies, etc. (6) Potassium permanganate Use a 0.02%-0.03% potassium permanganate aqueous solution, spray once every 2-3 days, and for severe cases spray twice, which can control powdery mildew.