How to care for desert rose in winter? Heat preservation is the key point of winter care
We know that the desert rose is a very cold-sensitive plant, so extra attention must be paid when caring for it in winter. If the methods are improper, it may very likely suffer freeze damage and fail to overwinter successfully. So how do you care for desert rose in winter? Let us look at the winter cultivation methods for desert rose.
Does desert rose drop its leaves in winter?
Scientific research has found that the desert rose dropping its leaves in winter is a subnormal state, and this is one of its ways of coping with drought, because leaf drop can reduce water consumption. However, if the winter temperature is above 15 degrees, it will not drop its leaves, and many of the normally fallen leaves will grow again after the temperature rises the following year.
How to care for desert rose in winter
Under normal circumstances, the desert rose is in a temperature environment of 15 degrees. With careful care, it can grow normally, but in many places in China the winter temperature will be lower than 15 degrees, so flower enthusiasts need to take some measures. So how do you care for desert rose in winter? The methods are as follows.
Winter cultivation methods for desert rose
1. Move it back indoors
In most areas, the outdoor temperature in winter will be lower than 10 degrees. At this time we should move the desert rose back indoors, and the measure of many plants being covered with plastic bags outdoors for warmth is not suitable for the desert rose, because in terms of cold tolerance, the desert rose is weaker.
2. Stop fertilizing
Fertilizing should be stopped in winter, because at this time the desert rose is generally in a dormant period, and its demand for fertilizer is the lowest of the year. So fertilizing not only fails to promote its growth, but on the contrary will affect the nutrient balance in the soil. We have described this in detail in how to water and fertilize desert rose.
3. Reduce watering
The roots of the desert rose have evolved into a spongy form and can store some water. In addition, it grows quite slowly in winter, so watering should also be reduced accordingly. Only after the soil has completely dried out should a small amount of water be given. Otherwise, the roots sitting in water are prone to root rot.
4. Environmental ventilation
When the winter temperature is below 5 degrees, the desert rose may suffer freeze damage, so some flower enthusiasts place it in a warm but stuffy environment for care. This practice is also wrong. If the environment is too stuffy and not ventilated, it will trigger some pests and diseases, which will likewise affect the health of the desert rose, so the environment should be kept well ventilated.
How to care for kalanchoe Cultivation methods for kalanchoe
How to care for kalanchoe Cultivation methods for kalanchoe
Kalanchoe (scientific name: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), also known as jiale flower,dwarf kalanchoe、Christmas kalanchoe, shouxing flower,Blossfeld's kalanchoe, belongs to the Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe genus, and is native to Madagascar in Africa. Kalanchoe is a common ornamental flower.
Propagation
It can be propagated by cuttings and sowing. For cuttings, both stem cuttings and leaf cuttings can be used, but stem cuttings are more convenient and quick. For stem cuttings, first cut off the terminal bud of a healthy plant, about 5 to 6 cm long. After the wound heals, insert it into potting soil, keep the soil moist and the air circulating, and sprinkle water to lower the temperature when it is above 30°C. After about 2 weeks it will root, and then fertilizing can begin. For leaf cuttings, select healthy, plump leaves and cut them off. Place the cut leaves in a cool place for about half an hour until the wound dries and heals, then insert them shallowly or lay them flat on breathable sandy soil, keeping the sandy soil semi-moist. Do not let it become too wet, otherwise it is prone to rot. When the air is dry or cold, a transparent film can be added to wrap it for moisture retention and warmth, and it should be placed in a spot with soft sunlight and ventilation. It can root within one month, and sprout within four months.
Seed propagation is usually used only in the early stages of developing horticultural cultivars. Kalanchoe is mostly sown in March. Simply sprinkle the seeds on moist soil, gently press the seeds onto the surface of the soil, then wrap with a transparent plastic bag to retain moisture, and place in a sunny spot, but not exposed to strong light. After about ten days they begin to germinate. At this point the plastic bag can be removed, but care must be taken not to let the soil become too dry. If the air is dry, spray water mist to retain moisture. After eight pairs of leaves have grown, they can be moved to a full-sun or half-sun location for normal management.
Planting
Kalanchoe likes a growing environment with ample sunlight but short daylight hours, and is suitable for planting in full sun to half sun. Placing it in a dark place easily causes leggy growth. At noon in the hot summer, direct sunlight should be avoided to prevent burning the leaves. Its growth rate is moderate. Kalanchoe comes from semi-desert areas and is drought-tolerant. It should be watered only when the soil is dry. In winter, watering should be reduced even more, only keeping the soil from drying out completely. Excessive watering easily causes stem and root rot. After flowering, kalanchoe enters dormancy. During this period, watering should be reduced and fertilizing is not allowed. Only after about six weeks does it begin to return to normal growth and watering. Kalanchoe cannot tolerate temperatures below 12°C, and the most suitable growing temperature is 18 to 27°C. Therefore, at low temperatures, kalanchoe should be placed indoors in a bright place to overwinter and be kept warm. Kalanchoe is not cold-tolerant. The suitable growing temperature is 15 to 25°C. When the high temperature exceeds 30°C, growth will be hindered. In winter, the indoor temperature needs to be 12 to 15°C. When it is below 5°C, the leaves will turn red and the flowering period will also be delayed. If the room temperature exceeds 24°C, flowering will be inhibited. At a temperature of about 15°C to 24°C, it will bloom continuously. Kalanchoe is a short-day plant. Short-day management can begin in mid-September, fertilizing should be paused, and it must stay in darkness for at least fourteen hours a day before it can bloom.
Planting techniques
Kalanchoe is a succulent plant. Its thick, glossy leaves form a low clump, remaining emerald green all year round. The plant is small and exquisite, compact in shape, with dense flowers and strong disease resistance. It likes warmth and humidity, is also drought-tolerant, likes light and is also fairly shade-tolerant, has a long flowering period, and is easy to cultivate. It is suitable for indoor decoration in winter and outdoor display in summer, with excellent ornamental effect.
Abroad, kalanchoe is not only an indoor ornamental potted flower, but is also very widely used in outdoor landscapes. At present, this concept is gradually being accepted by domestic garden designers, and it has begun to be applied in garden features. Under modern management conditions, the production volume of kalanchoe can reach 100 pots/year·sq m, and the output per unit area is even higher than that of large potted flowers such as anthurium and bromeliads.
In recent years, imported double-petaled kalanchoe has been successfully introduced by Beijing Wuzhou Xiangyuan Agricultural Development Co., Ltd. With its unique charm of rose-shaped flowers, it has gained market recognition and become a very valuable "new variety flower" with development potential. Wuzhou Xiangyuan Company continues to innovate. In addition to the mainstream red series, it has also launched pink, purple, yellow, light green and other varieties. In order to improve the planting quality of domestic kalanchoe, the company, aiming at the problem of kalanchoe seedling planting, has continuously communicated with foreign suppliers for many years and summarized the key points of kalanchoe planting management.
Planting techniques
Substrate Medium-granular peat mixed with lime, fertilizer, clay, etc.
Cutting pot diameter The standard pot specifications are 9 cm, 10 cm or 11 cm.
Watering It requires restraint to avoid overly vigorous plant growth.
Fertilizing Apply compound fertilizer, add calcium, and carry it out together with watering, with a pH value of 5.5 to 5.8. It should be noted that a water sample analysis should be carried out before fertilizing. Test the pH value and EC value of the substrate in the pot once a week. The pH value should be 5.0 to 6.0, and the EC value should be 1.8 to 2.5.
Growth retardant Use CCC in the early stage of plant growth, and B9 in the later stage.
Temperature The suitable temperature for rooting is 22°C, and thereafter the suitable temperature for plant growth is 19°C. When outdoor light is too strong, ventilation equipment needs to be used to lower the temperature. In addition, temperatures above 25°C should be avoided, otherwise high temperatures will weaken the effect of short-day treatment.
Shading and artificial supplemental lighting In summer, high outdoor temperatures easily cause the plant leaves to turn red. When the light intensity is greater than 65,000 lux, shading must be carried out. In winter, in order to shorten the plant's growth time by one or two weeks and make it form more inflorescences, artificial supplemental lighting is needed, with the light intensity required to reach 3000 lux, generally carried out before short-day treatment, and the day length should be no less than 18 hours/day.
Relative humidity It should reach 75% to reduce the harm of pathogens.
Every experienced flower enthusiast has their own set of methods for how to cultivate kalanchoe. Having grown kalanchoe for many years, I have accumulated some experience and would like to exchange it with everyone here. Anyone with better care knowledge is welcome to speak freely.
One: Soil and environment
Kalanchoe does not have high requirements for soil, and loose, breathable soil is best. Leaf mold soil, pine needle soil, and garden soil with coal cinders added are all acceptable. With ample sunlight, the suitable temperature is 15-25 degrees. Above 30 degrees it enters semi-dormancy, below 10 degrees growth stops, below 5 degrees the leaves turn red, and below 0 degrees it will suffer freeze damage. Insufficient light easily causes the plant to grow leggy, resulting in weak branches, thin and small leaves, reduced flowering, and less vivid flower color.
Two: Branch cuttings
After the old kalanchoe plant finishes flowering or after summer, the pot should be changed and the soil replaced, otherwise its growth will weaken. Especially for double-petaled varieties, the plant is very prone to becoming woody. I generally take cuttings once every other year. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, with spring and autumn being best. Summer and winter are also possible, but rooting is slow. In summer, the survival rate of cuttings is somewhat lower. When taking cuttings, cut off healthy branches with four or more leaves, and after the wound dries, they can be inserted for cuttings.
They can be rooted in water and then transplanted, or inserted directly into potting soil. Appropriate shading should be provided. Since the cuttings have not yet produced roots, a certain humidity must be maintained. Water can be sprayed appropriately to retain moisture. After about a week they can root. If the temperature is low, rooting will take a longer time. For branches inserted in soil, when the leaves become firm and glossy, it means they have already rooted and survived.
Three: Growth period
After the seedlings survive, they should be pinched and topped to encourage more branching. More branches mean more flowers, and the plant shape will also be more beautiful. Kalanchoe is drought-tolerant and does not need a large amount of water. Watering should follow the principle of seeing moisture and seeing dryness. In winter, when temperatures are low, the amount of water should be controlled to avoid root rot. Autumn is the peak growing season for kalanchoe. After September, the supply of water and fertilizer should be ensured. Only when the plant grows robustly can it produce more flowers and bloom vividly. In summer, be sure not to let it be exposed to continuous rain. After rain, do not expose it to strong sun. High humidity and high heat will smother the roots, causing root rot and black rot disease. In summer, appropriate shading is also needed, and it must not be exposed to the scorching sun. If conditions permit, it can be moved to a north-facing balcony. If conditions do not permit, a shade net can be pulled up, or it can be placed under the shade of a tree. Care can be adjusted according to one's own conditions.
Precautions for cultivating kalanchoe:
How to care for kalanchoe is the first question that friends preparing to grow kalanchoe think of. Kalanchoe leaves are glossy and emerald green all year round. The flowering period of kalanchoe is from December each year to April of the following year. A short five months can bring beautiful ornamental value. However, kalanchoe is a relatively easy flower to grow. The soil can be allowed to lean dry, but not lean wet. It is fine even when it dries to the point that the leaves are a bit wilted. After it dries out, water it thoroughly in one go. Some flower enthusiasts have also tried it, and it was fine even when placed outside the window in summer. If kalanchoe goes without light for a long time, it will grow leggy, and the leaves will correspondingly become thinner. Kalanchoe is afraid of freezing, so it needs to be placed indoors in winter. When it is flowering, just add some phosphorus fertilizer.
Kalanchoe grows best when cultivated in well-ventilated earthenware pottery, and it can also be planted directly in purple clay pots or plastic pots. It is worth noting that when planting, a layer of crushed charcoal or hard plastic foam blocks should be placed at the bottom of the pot. This is to increase ventilation. Heavy clay is prone to root rot and is not a good choice. For home pot cultivation, it is advisable to mix leaf mold soil and vegetable garden topsoil in equal amounts, then add 5% to 8% sand as the potting soil. When planting, add a little bone meal or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer as a base fertilizer.
Kalanchoe has a relatively high water content in its body, so it is drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging. It should be watered only when the soil in the pot is relatively dry, and ordinarily it is enough to keep it slightly moist. In summer, water less, preferably once every 5 to 7 days. With appropriate water control, keeping the potting soil alternating between dry and wet, the branches will be lush and there will be many flowers. After being brought indoors in winter, it is advisable to water at noon with water close to room temperature, about once a week.
Kalanchoe likes a fertile environment. After flowering, apply a nitrogen fertilizer once as appropriate, preferably urea liquid fertilizer. This makes kalanchoe more robust. At other times, only nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied. When fertilizing, be sure not to apply the fertilizer liquid to the leaves, otherwise they will wither. It should also be noted that fertilizing should not be done in summer.
In cultivating kalanchoe, it should also be noted that kalanchoe likes an environment with ample sunlight, and the scorching sun should be appropriately avoided. At other times it is best to place it in the sun. Maintaining more than four hours of light each day can make the plant more robust. Although it can also grow in half shade, the stems will be thin, the leaves will be small, there will be few flowers and the color will be pale. If it is too shady, it easily loses leaves and produces no flowers. The most suitable growing temperature for kalanchoe is 15°C to 25°C, and it can bloom in December.
In winter, kalanchoe needs protection from the cold, and the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. Kalanchoe has phototropism, so during the growth period attention should be paid to changing the direction of the flower pot and adjusting the light so that the plant receives light evenly and the branches are encouraged to grow evenly in all directions. Whenever the flowers fade, the flowering branches should be removed to avoid wasting nutrients. Each spring after the flowers fade, change the pot once. The potting soil should be made by mixing humus, garden soil, river sand and a small amount of bone meal. This kind of potting soil is loose, fertile, has good drainage, and is slightly acidic, which is beneficial to the growth and development of kalanchoe.
Kalanchoe is usually propagated by cuttings, and cultivation easily survives. Generally, in spring and autumn, cut stem segments with 3 to 5 leaves and insert them into a sand bed or vermiculite pot, 3 to 5 per pot, maintaining a moderately moist state. After about 20 days they can root.
In addition, in order to extend the growth period of kalanchoe, we can appropriately pinch the kalanchoe of the current season. This not only makes the shape of the kalanchoe look more graceful, but also allows it to bloom at the right time.
Kalanchoe, namely dwarf kalanchoe, is a perennial succulent herb, with opposite leaves, plump and juicy, easy to break; terminal cymes, with flowers in orange-red, yellow, red and other colors, a short plant shape, a long flowering period, abundant flowers, and high ornamental value.
One. Pot and soil
The pot should preferably be small, delicate and well ventilated, and loose sandy loam is good for planting. Kalanchoe grows best when planted in well-ventilated earthenware pottery pots, but placing them indoors is not attractive, so a plastic or porcelain pot can be used as an outer cover, or it can be planted directly in a small purple clay pot or plastic pot. When planting, place a layer of crushed charcoal blocks or crushed hard plastic foam blocks at the bottom of the pot to enhance ventilation. Although it is not very particular about soil, it is prone to root rot in heavy clay, and grows best in loose, fertile, slightly acidic sandy loam. For home pot cultivation, it is advisable to mix leaf mold soil and vegetable garden topsoil in equal amounts, then add 5% to 8% sand as the potting soil. When planting, add a little bone meal or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer as a base fertilizer.
Two. Water control and fertilizer use
With moderate water control the leaves are lush, and with more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer the flower color is vivid. Kalanchoe is a succulent plant, containing relatively more water in its body, so it is more drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging, and grows well under the dry-air conditions of high-rise buildings. In spring and autumn, after the potting soil dries, water thoroughly about once every 3 days, and ordinarily just keep it slightly moist. In summer, water less, preferably once every 5 to 7 days. For kalanchoe placed outdoors, during the rainy season it should be kept from being rained on. Too much water easily causes root rot, leaf drop, and even death. With appropriate water control, keeping the potting soil alternating between dry and wet, the branches will be lush and there will be many flowers. After being brought indoors in winter, it is advisable to water at noon with water close to room temperature, about once a week.
Kalanchoe likes fertilizer. Half a month after the seedlings are potted and planted, or half a month after old plants are divided, apply 2 to 3 times liquid fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen to promote the growth of stems and leaves. After flowering, apply once liquid fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen to promote recovery and vigor. At other times, except for stopping application in summer, only nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied. When fertilizing, do not get the fertilizer on the leaves, otherwise the leaves are prone to rot. If the leaf surface is accidentally soiled, it should be rinsed off with water. Kalanchoe has a long flowering period, so the rule of not fertilizing during the flowering period should be broken. Apply once a month a dilute nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, so that the later flowers do not become smaller and paler due to lack of fertilizer.
Three. Temperature and light
Kalanchoe likes an environment with ample sunlight. Apart from slight shading at noon in midsummer, at other times it should be placed in a sunny spot. It needs at least more than 4 hours of direct light every day to grow robustly. On building balconies, the flower pot should be rotated 180 degrees every half month so that it receives light evenly, avoiding a lopsided crown and reducing ornamental value. Although it can also grow in half shade, the stems will be thin, the leaves will be small, there will be few flowers and the color will be pale, far less luxuriant than in a sunny spot. If it is too shady, it will not only easily lose leaves and produce no flowers, but even a plant that has already bloomed, when placed in shade, will have its flower color become dull and then the flowers will drop and wither.
The most suitable growing temperature for kalanchoe is 15°C to 25°C. Above 30°C growth slows and it enters a semi-dormant state. Below 10°C growth stops. Below 8°C the leaf color turns red and the flowering period is delayed. Below 0°C it is prone to freezing to death. Therefore, to grow kalanchoe well, a small environment that is warm in winter and cool in summer must be created for it. At noon in midsummer, avoid strong direct sunlight and place it in half shade with ample scattered light, such as under a large tree, under the eaves, or on a north-facing balcony. Special attention should be paid to ventilation and cooling. Water can be sprinkled on the nearby ground, but it must not be sprinkled on the plant.
After the Beginning of Autumn, from late August to early September, it can gradually be exposed to sunlight. From October onward, it should be exposed to more sunlight to promote its transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. When the minimum temperature drops to about 10°C, move it indoors and place it in front of a south-facing or west-facing windowsill so that it gets more sunlight, maintaining 10°C at night and 15°C to 18°C during the day, and it can bloom in December.
Four: Fertilizing
During the cutting process, do not fertilize. Only after the branches survive and grow new leaves can fertilizer be applied, but it must be applied lightly and frequently. During the growth period, compound fertilizer is the main type. Summer is the semi-dormant period of kalanchoe, and fertilizing is not allowed, otherwise it will burn the roots. From October onward is the flower bud differentiation period. Some potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution can be sprayed, combined with root drenching. A concentration of 1:1000 or above is suitable. Spray once every 7 to 10 days until flower buds appear.
Five: Cutting precautions
Kalanchoe does not have very high requirements for soil. Sandy loam or peat soil mixed with a small amount of base fertilizer is sufficient. During the growth period, apply compound chemical fertilizer or fermented organic liquid fertilizer about once every 3 days to promote robust plant growth. In summer, with high temperature and high humidity, fertilizing may be omitted. After flower buds form, apply a relatively concentrated organic fertilizer or compound chemical fertilizer once. In the early stage of vigorous growth, pay attention to pinching to promote branching and make the flowers grow fuller.
Six: Disease treatment
Kalanchoe pests mainly include aphids, western flower thrips, scale insects, cyclamen mites, leaf rollers and fungus gnat larvae.
Aphids can cause serious damage to kalanchoe, especially in winter and early spring. Using aphid parasites and wasps for biological control will be more effective than chemical control.
When western flower thrips cause damage, their numbers are relatively small. Thrips like to attack the soft tissue at the plant's growing points. Sticky traps can be used weekly to monitor their numbers.
Scale insects mainly feed on axillary buds and growing points. Even a small number of scale insects can cause great damage. As long as a plant is infested by scale insects, it can no longer be sold. Once scale insects are found in a greenhouse, it is recommended to deal with them immediately to prevent spread.
Cyclamen mites do not like warmth and heat, so they rarely cause damage in summer, and mainly cause damage in winter. Symptoms include hindered growth, deformation of growing points, and deformed and faded flower buds. They often hide inside flower buds or among the tender leaves around the growing points.
Kalanchoe fungal diseases include powdery mildew, gray mold, rhizopus, myrothecium, stem rot, pythium, etc. Powdery mildew is the most serious fungal disease harming kalanchoe. Powdery mildew is very difficult to identify, because by the time white fuzzy mold appears, the disease is already very serious. Most powdery mildew on kalanchoe is difficult to control chemically.
Gray mold causes the leaves and stems of kalanchoe to rot in winter. Keeping the leaf surface dry and well ventilated can effectively prevent it, but many gray mold infections leave obvious spots on the leaves.
Rhizopus mostly occurs in warm and humid environments, and thin, soft tissues are most susceptible to infection. It also frequently occurs if the environment is too warm or too humid.
Myrothecium appears together with fungus gnats during the kalanchoe seedling propagation period. Plants placed too densely, poor air circulation, and warmth and humidity between plants can all cause bacterial outbreaks.
Stem rot There are many kinds of fungi that cause kalanchoe stem rot, such as Phytophthora, Thielaviopsis, Rhizoctonia, Cylindrocarpon, etc. Generally speaking, these fungi can be found on infected plants, but the most common is that they bore into the stems together with fungus gnats, causing damage at the same time. Control should target both the pathogens and the pests.
Pythium The root system of kalanchoe is very sensitive to improper watering, and both too dry and too wet can cause problems. According to experience, pythium mostly appears as a secondary disease under adverse conditions. Kalanchoe can survive with a small amount of roots. If the root environment is poor, the plant will only grow part of its roots, making it easier for pythium to invade.
Kalanchoe viral hazards include kalanchoe mosaic virus, impatiens necrotic spot virus, yellow spot virus, kalanchoe latent virus, Kalanchoë top-spotting virus, etc.
Kalanchoe mosaic virus (green island virus) This is the most common virus on kalanchoe, and it appears extremely widely in modern hybrid varieties. This virus only appears on plants in poor growing environments and heavily infected plants, manifesting as dark green mosaic spots on the leaves, and in severe cases inhibiting the growth of the diseased plant. At present, there is still no feasible immunological test method for controlling this virus. Aphids may be carriers of this virus.
Impatiens necrotic spot virus This is a variant of tomato spotted wilt virus and can cause a series of damage to kalanchoe, sometimes even resembling mistakes made during production. It is transmitted by western flower thrips.
Yellow spot virus can cause chlorosis and necrotic spots. At present, there is still no effective immunological test method. In kalanchoe cultivation, once a plant is infected with this virus, the plant will be completely destroyed.
Kalanchoe latent virus This virus has no symptoms at all, but enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay can detect it.
Kalanchoë top-spotting virus The symptom of this virus is light green to yellow mosaic spots on the leaves, and it can be detected.
Kalanchoe physiological disorders mainly include spray chemical damage, flower damage, short-day damage, ethylene damage, stress response, mutation, etc.
Spray chemical damage Some insecticides can cause toxic damage to the flowers and leaves of kalanchoe. Many of the EC ingredients will corrode the cuticle of kalanchoe leaves and petals, ultimately causing the flowers to fade and leaving spots on the leaves.
Flower damage There are many causes of kalanchoe flower damage, with continuous high humidity being the main cause. In the early stage of planting, supplementing appropriate calcium ions and trying to maintain plant vigor can prevent this situation. Some sensitive and fragile varieties will show particular symptoms under unsuitable conditions.
Short-day damage During kalanchoe cultivation, at least 6 hours of blackout shading is needed each day. Even during long-day treatment, being placed in darkness for a long time will cause robust leaves to become chlorotic.
Ethylene damage Ripening fruit placed in storage rooms or retail stores will produce ethylene. Exposed to extremely low concentrations of ethylene, kalanchoe will drop its flowers within a few days or have its flower buds degenerate, so extra attention is needed during transport, storage or display. In addition, abnormal operation of CO2 generators in the greenhouse can also cause the same problem.
Stress response The stress response of kalanchoe can be caused by a series of reasons, including water, light and temperature. Under mild conditions, the mature leaves of the plant fade; when the environment is extremely harsh, ethylene begins to be produced inside the growing points, leading to typical ethylene poisoning symptoms, with plant growth completely stopping, growing points turning red, and flower buds degenerating.
Mutation All caused by genetic defects.
The most common pests of kalanchoe are aphids and leafminers. Aphids are easy to deal with, but leafminers are troublesome. They like to burrow into the leaves and are very hard to find. By the time they are found, the leaf mesophyll has basically been eaten clean, turning into transparent dry leaves. Usually pay more attention to changes in the leaves, and spray pesticide as soon as they are found, so as to avoid an infestation. Dimethoate, imidacloprid, baichongling and others are all effective against this pest.
Growing kalanchoe indoors in winter most easily leads to powdery mildew. The main cause is poor ventilation. After powdery mildew appears, triadimefon is generally used to deal with it. Sulfur powder can also treat powdery mildew. Sulfur powder does not dissolve in water, so the leaves should be sprayed wet first, and then the sulfur powder should be evenly sprinkled on the diseased leaves. If powdery mildew occurs, treat and isolate it promptly, because it will infect other healthy flowers. Kalanchoe also has stem rot and leaf blight, which can be sprayed with a 800-**** times dilution of thiophanate-methyl. If stem rot is found, if it is not serious, medication can be used; if it is serious, healthy branches should be cut for cuttings, and the diseased plant should be thrown away.
Kalanchoe pictures Cultivation methods for kalanchoe
Kalanchoe (scientific name: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), also known as jiale flower, dwarf kalanchoe, Christmas kalanchoe, shouxing flower, Blossfeld's kalanchoe, belongs to the Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe genus, and is native to Madagascar in Africa. Kalanchoe is a common ornamental flower.
Kalanchoe was discovered in 1927 by the French botanist Perrier de la Bathie on the island of Madagascar at an altitude of 2000 m. In 1932 it was introduced from Madagascar in Africa to Potsdam, Germany, by the German R. Blossfeld, and was subsequently widely planted, with the plant named after him. Because kalanchoe blooms near Christmas and the Chinese Spring Festival, it has become a common holiday flower.
Kalanchoe, namely dwarf kalanchoe, is a perennial succulent herb, with opposite leaves, plump and juicy, easy to break; terminal cymes, with flowers in orange-red, yellow, red and other colors, a short plant shape, a long flowering period, abundant flowers, and high ornamental value.
Morphology
The plant height is 40 cm. The leaves are round or oval, dark green, with blunt-toothed leaf margins, about two to eight cm long. The edges of the succulent leaves are slightly red, the leaf surface is glossy, and it is evergreen all year round. The opposite flower clusters are clustered. The original species' flowers are single-petaled red, but artificially bred flowers have many colors, including red, orange, yellow, purple and others. The flowering period is relatively long, from winter to spring, about late December to May of the following year, and the flowering quantity is large. In recent years, double-petaled flower varieties have been developed, gradually replacing single-petaled varieties in horticulture.
Propagation
It can be propagated by cuttings and sowing. For cuttings, both stem cuttings and leaf cuttings can be used, but stem cuttings are more convenient and quick. For stem cuttings, first cut off the terminal bud of a healthy plant, about 5 to 6 cm long. After the wound heals, insert it into potting soil, keep the soil moist and the air circulating, and sprinkle water to lower the temperature when it is above 30°C. After about 2 weeks it will root, and then fertilizing can begin. For leaf cuttings, select healthy, plump leaves and cut them off. Place the cut leaves in a cool place for about half an hour until the wound dries and heals, then insert them shallowly or lay them flat on breathable sandy soil, keeping the sandy soil semi-moist. Do not let it become too wet, otherwise it is prone to rot. When the air is dry or cold, a transparent film can be added to wrap it for moisture retention and warmth, and it should be placed in a spot with soft sunlight and ventilation. It can root within one month, and sprout within four months.
Seed propagation is usually used only in the early stages of developing horticultural cultivars. Kalanchoe is mostly sown in March. Simply sprinkle the seeds on moist soil, gently press the seeds onto the surface of the soil, then wrap with a transparent plastic bag to retain moisture, and place in a sunny spot, but not exposed to strong light. After about ten days they begin to germinate. At this point the plastic bag can be removed, but care must be taken not to let the soil become too dry. If the air is dry, spray water mist to retain moisture. After eight pairs of leaves have grown, they can be moved to a full-sun or half-sun location for normal management.
Planting
Kalanchoe likes a growing environment with ample sunlight but short daylight hours, and is suitable for planting in full sun to half sun. Placing it in a dark place easily causes leggy growth. At noon in the hot summer, direct sunlight should be avoided to prevent burning the leaves. Its growth rate is moderate. Kalanchoe comes from semi-desert areas and is drought-tolerant. It should be watered only when the soil is dry. In winter, watering should be reduced even more, only keeping the soil from drying out completely. Excessive watering easily causes stem and root rot. [8] After flowering, kalanchoe enters dormancy. During this period, watering should be reduced and fertilizing is not allowed. Only after about six weeks does it begin to return to normal growth and watering. Kalanchoe cannot tolerate temperatures below 12°C, and the most suitable growing temperature is 18 to 27°C. Therefore, at low temperatures, kalanchoe should be placed indoors in a bright place to overwinter and be kept warm. [9] Kalanchoe is not cold-tolerant. The suitable growing temperature is 15 to 25°C. When the high temperature exceeds 30°C, growth will be hindered. In winter, the indoor temperature needs to be 12 to 15°C. When it is below 5°C, the leaves will turn red and the flowering period will also be delayed. If the room temperature exceeds 24°C, flowering will be inhibited. At a temperature of about 15°C to 24°C, it will bloom continuously. Kalanchoe is a short-day plant. Short-day management can begin in mid-September, fertilizing should be paused, and it must stay in darkness for at least fourteen hours a day before it can bloom.
After many years of artificial propagation, kalanchoe has many varieties. Classified by flower shape, there are double-petaled kalanchoe, single-petaled kalanchoe, and palace lantern kalanchoe. Classified by leaf shape, they can be divided into lobed leaves, pinnate leaves, and the original species' rose leaves. Kalanchoe has many flower colors, mainly red, orange, yellow, purple, white, pink, and two-color mixes.
One. The pot should preferably be small, delicate and well ventilated, and loose sandy loam is good for planting. Kalanchoe grows best when planted in well-ventilated earthenware pottery pots, but placing them indoors is not attractive, so a plastic or porcelain pot can be used as an outer cover, or it can be planted directly in a small purple clay pot or plastic pot. When planting, place a layer of crushed charcoal blocks or crushed hard plastic foam blocks at the bottom of the pot to enhance ventilation. Although it is not very particular about soil, it is prone to root rot in heavy clay, and grows best in loose, fertile, slightly acidic sandy loam. For home pot cultivation, it is advisable to mix leaf mold soil and vegetable garden topsoil in equal amounts, then add 5% to 8% sand as the potting soil. When planting, add a little bone meal or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer as a base fertilizer.
Two. With moderate water control the leaves are lush, and with more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer the flower color is vivid. Kalanchoe is a succulent plant, containing relatively more water in its body, so it is more drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging, and grows well under the dry-air conditions of high-rise buildings. In spring and autumn, after the potting soil dries, water thoroughly about once every 3 days, and ordinarily just keep it slightly moist. In summer, water less, preferably once every 5 to 7 days. For kalanchoe placed outdoors, during the rainy season it should be kept from being rained on. Too much water easily causes root rot, leaf drop, and even death. With appropriate water control, keeping the potting soil alternating between dry and wet, the branches will be lush and there will be many flowers. After being brought indoors in winter, it is advisable to water at noon with water close to room temperature, about once a week.
Kalanchoe likes fertilizer. Half a month after the seedlings are potted and planted, or half a month after old plants are divided, apply 2 to 3 times liquid fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen to promote the growth of stems and leaves. After flowering, apply once liquid fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen to promote recovery and vigor. At other times, except for stopping application in summer, only nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer can be applied. When fertilizing, do not get the fertilizer on the leaves, otherwise the leaves are prone to rot. If the leaf surface is accidentally soiled, it should be rinsed off with water. Kalanchoe has a long flowering period, so the rule of not fertilizing during the flowering period should be broken. Apply once a month a dilute nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, so that the later flowers do not become smaller and paler due to lack of fertilizer.
Three. Kalanchoe likes an environment with ample sunlight. Apart from slight shading at noon in midsummer, at other times it should be placed in a sunny spot. It needs at least more than 4 hours of direct light every day to grow robustly. On building balconies, the flower pot should be rotated 180 degrees every half month so that it receives light evenly, avoiding a lopsided crown and reducing ornamental value. Although it can also grow in half shade, the stems will be thin, the leaves will be small, there will be few flowers and the color will be pale, far less luxuriant than in a sunny spot. If it is too shady, it will not only easily lose leaves and produce no flowers, but even a plant that has already bloomed, when placed in shade, will have its flower color become dull and then the flowers will drop and wither.
The most suitable growing temperature for kalanchoe is 15°C to 25°C. Above 30°C growth slows and it enters a semi-dormant state. Below 10°C growth stops. Below 8°C the leaf color turns red and the flowering period is delayed. Below 0°C it is prone to freezing to death. Therefore, to grow kalanchoe well, a small environment that is warm in winter and cool in summer must be created for it. At noon in midsummer, avoid strong direct sunlight and place it in half shade with ample scattered light, such as under a large tree, under the eaves, or on a north-facing balcony. Special attention should be paid to ventilation and cooling. Water can be sprinkled on the nearby ground, but it must not be sprinkled on the plant.
After the Beginning of Autumn, from late August to early September, it can gradually be exposed to sunlight. From October onward, it should be exposed to more sunlight to promote its transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. When the minimum temperature drops to about 10°C, move it indoors and place it in front of a south-facing or west-facing windowsill so that it gets more sunlight, maintaining 10°C at night and 15°C to 18°C during the day, and it can bloom in December.
Pests and diseases and their control
Kalanchoe pests mainly include aphids, western flower thrips, scale insects, cyclamen mites, leaf rollers and fungus gnat larvae.
Aphids can cause serious damage to kalanchoe, especially in winter and early spring. Biological control using aphid parasites and wasps is more effective than chemical control.
Western flower thrips are relatively few in number when they cause damage; thrips prefer to attack the soft tissue at the plant's growing points, and sticky traps can be used weekly to monitor their numbers.
Scale insects mainly feed on axillary buds and growing points. Even a small number of scale insects can cause great damage; once a plant is infested with scale insects, it can no longer be sold. Once scale insects are found in a greenhouse, it is recommended to deal with them immediately to prevent their spread.
Cyclamen mites do not like warmth and heat, so they rarely cause damage in summer and mainly cause damage in winter. Symptoms include stunted growth, deformation of growing points, and deformed and faded flower buds. They often hide inside flower buds or among the tender leaves around the growing points.
Fungal diseases of kalanchoe include powdery mildew, gray mold, rhizopus, myrothecium, stem rot, pythium, and others. Powdery mildew is the most serious fungal disease affecting kalanchoe. Powdery mildew is very difficult to identify, because by the time the white fuzzy mold appears, the disease is already very severe. Most powdery mildew on kalanchoe is difficult to control chemically.
Gray mold causes kalanchoe leaves and stems to rot in winter; keeping the leaf surface dry and maintaining good ventilation can effectively prevent it, but many cases of gray mold leave obvious spots on the leaves.
Rhizopus mostly occurs in warm, humid environments, and thin, soft tissue is most susceptible to infection. It also frequently occurs if the environment is too warm or too humid.
Myrothecium can cause damage at the same time as fungus gnats during kalanchoe propagation. Placing plants too densely, poor air circulation, and warm, humid conditions between plants can all lead to an outbreak.
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