How to grow Desert Rose so its roots grow bigger? What soil to use for more balanced nutrition
The Desert Rose has a thick, sturdy stem base but a short plant body, which makes it look very cute. Many flower lovers choose to grow Desert Rose precisely because they like this trait, so how do you grow Desert Rose so its roots grow bigger? What soil should be used to cultivate Desert Rose? The editor will answer these one by one.
What soil to use for cultivating Desert Rose

Desert Rose is fairly flexible in its soil requirements; it can grow in either acidic or alkaline soil, but it prefers loose, airy, well-draining, fertile acidic soil, and it is best if the soil is also rich in calcium, which is more beneficial for root growth.
How to grow Desert Rose so its roots grow bigger
Besides choosing good soil, how do you grow Desert Rose so its roots grow bigger? This requires starting from three aspects: watering, fertilizing and light, because only when nutrients are sufficient but not excessive can it grow smoothly and thrive.
1. Watering
Desert Rose does not like a moist soil environment, so there is no need to water too frequently. On the premise of ensuring enough water absorption, keeping the soil on the dry side is beneficial for root growth. What it dislikes most is standing water in the soil.
When watering, if you cannot judge how dry the soil is, you can insert a finger or a wooden stick 2-3 cm into the soil to check whether the soil is moist. Watering is generally done in the morning, when the sunlight is not so intense, making it easier for Desert Rose to grow and absorb water; if you water at noon, the water is easily evaporated.
2. Fertilizing
The growth of Desert Rose cannot do without elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but different elements promote growth in different parts. So how do you grow Desert Rose so its roots grow bigger? When fertilizing, you can focus on nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, as both can promote cell division and cell enlargement. For the method, you can refer to the detailed introduction in how to fertilize Desert Rose.
3. Light
If you want Desert Rose to grow more robustly, you need to give it enough light, so during normal care you should let Desert Rose bask in the sun more. If the environment lacks sunlight, you can place it in a bright spot for care. Only when light is sufficient will the roots grow bigger.
How to grow Desert Rose: cultivation and propagation methods for Desert Rose
How to grow Desert Rose: cultivation and propagation methods for Desert Rose
Have you ever grown Desert Rose? Desert Rose is also known asTianbao flower. Today let us look atthe cultivation and propagation methods of Desert Rose.
Desert Rose is called Desert Rose in English, and its formal scientific name is Adenium obesum var. obesum. It is an evergreen semi-deciduous small shrub in the genus Adenium of the family Apocynaceae. Originally, the flowers of Desert Rose were all single-petaled (only one ring of petals). After double-petaled Desert Roses were discovered in Vietnam in 2006, Thai growers used them to develop varieties in different colors with three rings of petals (triple petal) and launched them on the market under the name Rosy Adenium, so in recent years double-flowered Desert Roses can also be seen.
Desert Rose horticultural varieties
Place of origin
As its name suggests, Desert Rose comes from the desert regions stretching from Kenya in Africa to the Arabian area of the Middle East, so it can withstand scorching hot weather. When the temperature is too low or watering is insufficient, Desert Rose will enter dormancy.
Proper pruning can promote branching and flowering. When the branches of Desert Rose grow longer than thirty cm, they can be pruned, usually once every two years. However, when Desert Rose is injured, a toxic sap flows from the wound, so avoid touching it. If your hands touch it, immediately rinse with soap and clean water; if it touches the eyes or mouth, immediately rinse with clean water and seek medical attention.
Soil
A common Desert Rose horticultural variety, "Singapore"
(Singapore)
You must choose well-draining soil for planting, otherwise Desert Rose is prone to root rot. For example, use coarse sand, carbonized rice husk and potting soil mixed at 6:3:1, or pearlite, river sand and potting soil mixed at 2:4:4. In both cases, a slow-release balanced fertilizer should be added as a base fertilizer. If you choose soil with a higher proportion of potting soil, the interval between waterings should be longer and you should avoid rain, so as to prevent root rot.
Some people plant only with a large amount of river sand mixed with decomposed animal manure, but this organic fertilizer will undergo a second fermentation and give off an odor, so it is only suitable for outdoor use.
Light
Desert Rose needs sufficient sunlight. Insufficient sunlight will cause the plant to grow leggy, thin and weak and prone to disease, and it will be difficult for it to bloom. Even so, in the dry, scorching heat of midsummer at noon, a little shade (about 25-30% shading) is helpful for their growth, especially for seedlings or just after repotting, when they should not be exposed to strong sun.
Temperature
Seedlings of Desert Rose
The flowering temperature of Desert Rose is 20-35°C. In tropical regions, Desert Rose can bloom all year round. The optimal growth temperature is 22°C-30°C. Above 38°C it pauses flowering. It can withstand high temperatures of 40°C, but needs appropriate shading. Below 12°C it enters dormancy, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Watering
Avoid overwatering, especially during dormancy, when you must be sure the surface of the potting soil is completely dry before watering. Even during the growing period, overwatering can cause root rot, so each time you should wait until the surface of the potting soil is dry before watering. In summer, water about once a week; in winter, about once every two weeks, increasing or decreasing with the season and weather. When watering, water thoroughly, that is, stop once water begins to drip from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. At no time should there be standing water at the bottom of the pot.
In the heat of summer, it is best to water at sunset; in other seasons, watering at sunrise is better. Keeping the environment dry is beneficial for the growth of Desert Rose. If you find part of a leaf scorched and withered, and the plant is not sick, it is most likely that the watering method is wrong: for example, watering too frequently or too sparingly, or watering in the heat of summer under blazing sun, and so on.
Fertilizing
Because the soil used for growing Desert Rose loses water and nutrients quickly, regular fertilizing is necessary. For the first three years, apply a liquid fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 1:1:1 once every two weeks in spring, and apply a slow-release fertilizer once in early summer and once in early autumn. After three years the plant matures, and you only need to apply a slow-release fertilizer once each in early summer and early autumn every year. When fertilizing, be careful to avoid the stem base. It is better to apply more later than to apply too much or too concentrated at once, so as to avoid burning the roots.
Repotting
Desert Rose has a swollen stem base
The swollen stem base (Caudex) of Desert Rose has a water-storing function. If you grow it from a young seedling, try not to expose the stem base above the soil surface during the first three years, so that the stem base can absorb water and nutrients well and swell. After the plant matures, gradually expose the swollen stem base above the soil surface a little at a time with each repotting, reducing the impact of environmental change on them.
Therefore, repot about once every two years, and choose a wide-mouthed pot so the stem base has enough space to swell and grow. Avoid repotting during the rainy season or before and after rain, because high air humidity easily breeds bacteria. In addition, water only three to seven days after repotting, and begin fertilizing only one month later, so that the injured young roots have time to recover.
Propagation
The fruit of Desert Rose
Commercially, Desert Rose is mostly propagated by three methods: sowing seeds, grafting onto rootstock, or air-layering branches.
Desert Rose cannot self-pollinate; it relies on insects to transfer pollen between different plants in order to set fruit. So if you have only one pot of Desert Rose at home, it is not surprising that it does not set fruit after flowering. Since it is not easy to obtain seeds from Desert Rose grown at home, and due to space limitations, the method of sowing seeds is not covered here. In addition, because the author personally has an unreasonable prejudice against grafting as a propagation method, this method is also not discussed here.
As for the commonly used air-layering method, it is best carried out on warm, humid days from spring to summer. The method is briefly described as follows:
1. The sap of Desert Rose is toxic, so first put on rubber gloves and avoid letting the sap touch your eyes and mouth.
2. Select a mature, robust branch. With a sterilized small knife or blade, make a ring cut around the branch at the spot where you plan to snap it off in the future. The wound must go through the bark to the woody layer, but the branch must not be cut through; at a distance of about two cm, make another ring cut in the same way.
A simple illustration of the air-layering method
3. Between the two rings, make a straight cut, also through the bark to the woody layer. Using this cut as an opening, peel off the bark between the two rings until the woody layer is exposed. If the bark layer is not completely removed, it will affect root formation.
4. Let the wound air-dry for one day.
5. After the wound has air-dried, soak sphagnum moss thoroughly in clean water, then squeeze the water out with your hands and set it aside.
6. Cut open a transparent plastic bag, sized so that it can wrap the peeled part and the sphagnum moss.
7. Use thin string to tie one end of the plastic bag about one to two cm below the first cut, then wrap the prepared sphagnum moss around the wound, taking care to cover the entire wound completely.
8. Fold the tied end of the plastic bag over the sphagnum moss. If you find there is not enough sphagnum moss, you can add more at this point, then tie the other end of the plastic bag about one to two cm above the second cut with thin string. Be careful that the plastic bag does not leave an opening, so that moisture does not escape.
9. Usually after twenty to thirty days, roots will begin to form at the cut area. If you find the sphagnum moss dry during this period, you can untie the string at the top end, pour water in at the opening, and tie it back up. Be careful not to water too much, lest you outsmart yourself; the standard is that there is no standing water at the bottom of the plastic bag.
10. After roughly another thirty to fifty days, you will see new roots growing out. At this point you can remove the plastic bag and sphagnum moss, cut off the branch with roots, and transplant it.
11. When transplanting, first lay crushed stone or clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, add about one third of the soil on top, then spread the grown roots out in all directions in the pot as much as possible, carefully add the rest of the soil, and place it in a bright spot. Water only after the wound has healed in three to seven days, depending on the weather.
12. The placement should avoid the fierce sunlight of midsummer, or add a shade net at midday in midsummer, and take care not to let the potting soil become too dry, and do not fertilize until the young plant begins to produce new leaves, after which normal management can begin.
Care measures for the southern plant date palm
Part one: "Compilation of Southern Plants"
Frangipani
Frangipani, its flowers really look like eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like the white and yolk of an egg, and they look really cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are large too, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the tips of the branches. Frangipani blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and it is very suitable for people to admire carefully. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its form is quite beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and on lawns. Frangipani likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment with ample sunlight and good drainage. It is robust by nature and can withstand drought, but it fears cold and dislikes waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil, but it is also resistant to alkalinity. For cultivation, deep, fertile, well-aerated, organic-rich acidic sandy loam is best. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting Frangipani, you should also pay attention to pest and disease control. For example, if brown small spots appear on the leaves or the leaves even turn dark black, that is due to Frangipani leaf spot, and at this time you should pay attention and take measures. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so Frangipani needs your care and attention. In fact, besides white, Frangipani also comes in red and yellow, and all can be used to extract essence for making high-grade cosmetics, soap and food additives, at a rather high price, with great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for making tea, commonly known as Frangipani tea, which has the effect of treating heat dysentery and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The Frangipani tree has a beautiful form, with many branches on the stem, odd shapes and a thousand postures; its leaves resemble those of the loquat, and after they fall in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branch tips, much like antlers dotted with beautiful spots. It can be called the top choice small tree for landscaping, courtyard arrangement and potted appreciation in tropical regions. The bark is thin and grayish green, rich in toxic white sap, which can be used for external application to treat scabies, redness and swelling and other conditions. The wood is white, light and soft, and can be used to make musical instruments, tableware or furniture. Frangipani flower meaning: breeding hope, resurrection, rebirth - as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, without distance.
Yulan magnolia
Yulan magnolia is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray bark that is rough and cracked; the branchlets are slightly stout and grayish brown; the winter buds and flower stalks are densely covered with light grayish-yellow long silky hairs. The leaves are papery, obovate, broadly obovate or obovate-elliptic, and the leaves on vigorous shoots at the base are elliptic. The flowers of Yulan magnolia are very much like lotus flowers; when in full bloom, the petals spread out in all directions, making the courtyard appear in patches of green and white, with dazzling white light, and it has high ornamental value; together with wave after wave of delicate fragrance, refreshing the heart, it is truly an ideal flower form for beautifying courtyards. Yulan magnolia likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant, and can overwinter in the open ground. It loves dryness and dislikes low humidity; if the planting site is waterlogged, the roots easily rot. It likes fertile, well-draining, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Yulan magnolia has strong resistance to harmful gases. For example, if this flower is planted in a factory polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. In artificial fumigation with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 grams of sulfur. Therefore, Yulan magnolia is a very good pollution-resistant landscaping tree species for areas with air pollution. Yulan magnolia likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant, and it does not tolerate strong light or west-facing sun. Too much light or west-facing sun easily scorches the tree. Yulan magnolia likes fertilizer; besides applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously, with lush, thick green leaves, and not only more flower buds but also larger flowers, a longer flowering period and rich fragrance. Yulan magnolia is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance. Its main diseases are anthracnose, yellowing disease and leaf scorch. Besides ornamental value, Yulan magnolia also has medicinal value and edible value. Yulan magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid and so on, and also contain magnoflorine, alkaloids, yulan flower essence, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A and other components, and have a certain medicinal value. The flowers of Yulan magnolia are pungent and warm in nature, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, opening the orifices, and ventilating the lungs and clearing the nose. They can be used for headache, blood-stasis type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis and other conditions. Modern pharmacological research shows that Yulan magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.
Yulan magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and dispersing cold, and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks, or brewed as tea. The flower meaning of Yulan magnolia represents gratitude. Yulan magnolia often produces large white flowers amid lush greenery, and with its fragrant scent it gives people an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because its plant is tall and the flowers are positioned relatively high, swaying in the wind and full of spirit, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, it is very lovely.
Maranta
Maranta is an herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, and the leaves are solitary, relatively large, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with pinnate veins arranged in two rows, and entire margins. Maranta is a fairly good groundcover plant with diverse colors, and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant that likes a warm, humid and brightly lit environment, and is neither cold-tolerant nor drought-tolerant. It fears scorching sun; direct sunlight will scorch the leaves, causing localized scorching at the leaf edges, stopping the growth of new leaves, and yellowing the leaf color, so shading should be noted during cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water; during the growing period it should be watered thoroughly to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not be waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate". It requires enough careful attention all 365 days; if there are a few days of major environmental fluctuations, they will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of Maranta seedling traders and growers. Plants of the Maranta family do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies and so on. Of course, it also has other values, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta powder is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings and dessert pastries. Added to water and boiled, it becomes a transparent, odorless, tasty paste. Maranta powder is fine in texture and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter times, and is easy to digest, making it especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and also suitable for making light, low-salt and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder.
Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum
Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The bark is dark gray or light grayish brown, with many branches. The young branches are reddish brown and densely covered with stellate hairs. The leaves are leathery and alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2 - 5 cm long, with a short pointed tip, a rounded and oblique, asymmetrical base, stellate hairs on both sides, entire margins, and dark red color. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. It has strong adaptability and is drought-tolerant. It likes warmth and is cold-tolerant. It has strong sprouting and branching ability and tolerates pruning. It tolerates poor soil, but grows best in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has luxuriant branches and leaves, a graceful posture, tolerates pruning and tolerates wiring, and can be used for hedges or for making stump bonsai. In the flowering season, the whole tree is covered with red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, with fresh red new leaves. Different strains differ in leaf color and flower color at maturity, and leaf size also varies. In landscaping applications, the main considerations are leaf color and leaf size, bringing about leaf color contrast and forming color contrast, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometer moths, yellow noctuid moths, diamondback noctuid moths, large and small cutworms and scarab beetles, etc.: Common diseases of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum: anthracnose, damping-off, mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the disease spots appear as
black round spots, or nearly round, causing early defoliation. Damage is severe in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinospore fungus. The pathogen overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves, serving as the initial infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, you must treat it promptly.
Ornamental peach
Ornamental peach is a variety of peach. It is a tree, 3-8 m tall; the crown is broad and spreading; the bark is dark reddish brown, rough and scaly when old; the branchlets are slender, hairless, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with many small lenticels; the winter buds are conical, blunt at the tip, covered with short soft hairs, often clustered 2-3 together, with a leaf bud in the middle and flower buds on both sides. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight and is drought-tolerant, and does not tolerate a moist environment. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, able to overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile, well-draining soil. It does not like standing water; if planted in a low-lying, waterlogged place, seedlings easily die. Landscape value: Ornamental peach has large, brightly colored flowers, beautiful when in bloom, with an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping it is widely used by lakesides, streams, both sides of roads and parks, etc., and in small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted appreciation, and is often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. A common form is also weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects; in the year of planting it already shows especially good results. It can be planted in rows, in masses or as a solitary specimen, and in the same year it already shows especially good greening results. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colorful nursery stock in landscaping, and is usually used together with nursery stock such as purple-leaf plum and purple-leaf sand cherry. Flowering shrubs are combined in plantings to create a scene of a hundred flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted on the peach trunk, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive and so on. It is a kind of polysaccharide substance; hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid and so on. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood stasis, harmonizing blood and tonifying qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases are: white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis and leaf curl. The main pests are aphids, red spiders, scale insects, red-necked longhorn beetles and so on.
Artificial plant communities
1. Satsuki azalea + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' + thornless Chinese holly ball
These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three foliage-color plants are planted in linear form, with rich leaf colors, plus large-specimen thornless Chinese holly balls, forming a neat, full and clearly layered road greening color-band effect.
2. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Photinia × fraseri ball + Michelia figo + Acer palmatum
Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability; its leaf color and flower color are both very beautiful. The old leaves of Photinia × fraseri ball are green, dotted with the red of new leaves, setting each other off, extremely beautiful. The four plants combined have rich layers and form a landscape road with vertical rhythm and spatial layers, and with a strong sense of guidance.
3. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fatsia japonica + Phoenix canariensis + Frangipani
In this combination of several plants, green is the main color. The leaves are both small (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) and large (Fatsia japonica, Frangipani), while Phoenix canariensis adds a touch of tropical flavor. The layers are rich, with the effect of narrowing the space, making people feel close to it.
4. Moso bamboo + Iris
Moso bamboo is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a running bamboo, with spacing between the culms. Iris has a graceful posture and gorgeous, varied flower colors. The two combined are very charming.
5. Small-leaf gardenia + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Aucuba japonica + Osmanthus fragrans
Small-leaf gardenia has leaves like sparrow tongues and a low plant form, and can be used as the lowest-layer plant. Aucuba japonica has yellow spots in its leaf color and is a fairly good foliage plant, while the tree Osmanthus fragrans has fragrant flowers that refresh the heart. The combination has both density and spacing, changes in leaf color, plus floral fragrance.
6. Rhododendron pulchrum + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fagraea ceilanica + Canna
Rhododendron pulchrum has gorgeous flowers, and with Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and Fagraea ceilanica as a foil, it is even more moving. Canna has large leaves, narrowing the space and making people feel close.
7. Groundcover lawn + Tagetes erecta + Photinia × fraseri + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum ball + Osmanthus fragrans 'Dangui'
With green groundcover as the base, the bright yellow flowers of Tagetes erecta are extremely beautiful. Behind Tagetes erecta, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and red Photinia serve as a foil, and Osmanthus fragrans 'Dangui' has a spreading tree form. The several plants set each other off, with rich variation.
8. Ophiopogon japonicus + Guava tree
Both Ophiopogon japonicus and guava trees adapt very well in Fuzhou and grow normally. Ophiopogon japonicus has fine, soft leaves and is very suitable as groundcover. The guava tree has smooth yellow bark, a graceful posture and relatively large leaves with an orderly density, making it very suitable for a small path through an open grove.
9. Lawn + Agave americana 'Marginata' + pruned and shaped banyan + Cassia bicapsularis
With green lawn as the base, Agave americana 'Marginata' has thick, large leaves with silver-yellow and green alternating in color, and it matches very harmoniously with the shaped banyan, while Cassia bicapsularis has a beautiful posture and gorgeous flowers. The combination of these several plants has rich layers and coordinated color variation.
10. Liriope platyphylla + Rhapis excelsa + Dypsis lutescens + Papaya tree
This plant arrangement is suitable for one side of a small building. Liriope platyphylla has fine, soft leaf shapes, while Rhapis excelsa and Dypsis lutescens have thicker, larger leaves, and papaya leaves are large and palm-shaped; its fruit forms on the main trunk, and its posture is very graceful.
11. Acalypha wilkesiana + Duranta erecta + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum
As a plant combination for a patterned flower bed, Acalypha wilkesiana has bright leaf color and serves as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has dark purple leaf color. The combination of the three plants as a patterned flower bed is extremely attractive.
Part two: "Maintenance Plan 4"
Landscaping maintenance and management plan
Maintenance and management is very important in landscaping. It is a long-term, repetitive task with fairly comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and animals, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grasses and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, planting of flower bed flowers and so on. The completion of landscaping green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management"; only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.
Current characteristics of the plants in the park:
1. The green area covers about 245,419 ten thousand sq m, with a high greening coverage rate, and there are large numbers of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned and shaped shrubs; the initial growth has gradually taken shape. After our careful investigation, the plant planting characteristics are roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:
1) Plaza area: the plant planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted with ginkgo, Nanmu and large trees in rows,
appropriately combined with low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.
2) Factory area: the plant variety combinations in this area are complex. Large and small trees, shrubs and groundcover plants are interplanted.
At the entrance, relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, Jacaranda mimosifolia, small-leaf banyan stump,
top-grade Osmanthus fragrans, etc.) are the main feature. Whether the office-area courtyard can still maintain its elegant, refined, spacious and grand
scenery, and whether the hotel villa-area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely and relaxed atmosphere,
all depends on later care and management.
2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: ① the shaped shrubs grow poorly and have monotonous shapes; ② the flowering shrubs have poor tree vigor, and the flowering conditions (including how many flowers, flower size, color, and secondary flowering) are unsatisfactory; ③ the lawn has many weeds, and in local areas the grass has a tendency to be overrun by grassy weeds; ④ there are pest and disease problems.
I. We plan to take the following corrective measures:
1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out varied and graceful shaping of hedges and shrubs. For the flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to encourage their growth and then shape them according to their form; this depends on the specific plant's growth and plant shape. The hedges in local areas are highly regular, and the neat, uniform long strips undoubtedly make the courtyard, which should be free and leisurely, appear mechanical and rigid. You can likewise try pruning them into wave shapes to match the relaxed and casual landscaping of the residential area, enlivening the atmosphere of the whole courtyard and also creating a more fluid living environment.
2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing signs of pests and diseases, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.
3、
4、
5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the workload of manual pulling. For different plants, implement different maintenance and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilizer; different plants in different seasons all have different fertilizing methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We classify and count all the plants, then make green labels indicating their
family, genus and species, and living habits, and label all plants in the area. In this way we can
enrich the employees' general knowledge of plants, and also add to the cultural atmosphere of the park, and with eye-catching labels
bring more attention to the greening.
6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of a single morning or evening. While doing the corrective work well, we will likewise
adopt different maintenance and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month
(detailed rules attached below), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to the extreme, and at the same
In the same way, we also ask Party A to offer more opinions, so that our work can be gradually perfected and improved.
7. Maintenance Responsibilities
Within the maintenance contract period, our company shall, in accordance with the operating regulations for landscape and greening maintenance and the quality standards for landscape and greening maintenance, organize rationally and carry out meticulous maintenance, and assign professional horticulturists to organize, guide and arrange the management and care work, and flexibly assign no fewer than experienced workers according to the weather in each season and the growth conditions of the plants, so as to complete the maintenance and management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.
6. Maintenance Content
1. Management procedures: including the whole process of watering, opening planting holes and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud removal, pest and disease control, straightening, and replanting (seedling costs calculated separately), etc. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
2. Management tools:
A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shovels, lawn mowers
B. Sprayers, buckets, dump carts, bamboo baskets
C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders
D. Fuel, repair costs
3. Maintenance content:
A. Trees: apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per tree, and apply a top dressing once, 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, using hole application, spraying, water-soluble fertilizer, etc., then cover with soil and water thoroughly, with a water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; carry out timely pest and disease control, maintain the trees' natural growth state without shaping or pruning, promptly cut off yellow branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, shaded leggy branches and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and promptly clean up the pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure there are no weeds.
B. Shrubs, hedges, bagged seedlings: apply fertilizer once a quarter, 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 m2, using broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc.; water once within three hours after application, and water once a day (except on rainy days), with a water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; carry out timely pest and disease control; for those pruned into round, square or conical shapes, carry out light pruning once a week and heavy pruning once a month, with smooth and attractive cut surfaces; promptly remove the pruned material; promptly cut off dead branches and diseased and pest-infested branches; promptly replant old, diseased and dead plants; and remove weeds once a week.
C. Herbaceous plants: apply fertilizer once a quarter, 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 m2, using broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc.; water once within three hours after application, and water once a day (except on rainy days), with a water penetration depth of more than 10 cm; carry out timely pest and disease control; cut off spent flowers once a week and remove weeds once a week; and promptly cut off dead and yellow branches.
D. Taiwan grass: apply fertilizer once a quarter, 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 m2, with even fertilization and thorough watering, with a water penetration depth of more than 5 cm; carry out timely pest and disease control; promptly replant withered, dead and missing parts, with a coverage rate of more than 98%; and prune 1-2 times a month.
(2) Specific arrangements for one year of landscape maintenance work:
January: the month with the lowest temperatures of the year, when open-field trees are in a dormant state.
1. Winter pruning: fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, diseased and pest-infested branches on large and small trees, as well as branches that obstruct overhead lines and buildings.
2. Street tree inspection: promptly inspect the tying and staking of street trees, and immediately rectify any loosened ties, wire embedded in bark, unstable stakes, etc.
3. Pest control: winter is a favorable season for eliminating landscape pests. You can dig up the pupae and cocoons of nettle caterpillars in the loose soil under the trees and burn them in a concentrated manner. In mid-January, scale insects begin to become active, but at this time they move slowly, so we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the tree trunks. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.
4. Green space maintenance: in green spaces, flower beds and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be weeded and edged in a timely manner; and in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.
February: temperatures rise somewhat compared with the previous month, and trees are still in a dormant state.
1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.
2. Pruning: continue pruning dead and diseased branches of large and small trees. Complete the pruning of all kinds of trees before the end of the month.
3. Pest control: continue to focus on preventing nettle caterpillars and scale insects.
March: temperatures continue to rise; after mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late March some trees (such as camellias) bloom.
1. Tree planting: spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, complete the planning and design, dig (hollow out) the tree pits in advance, and ensure digging, transporting, planting and watering are done in sequence. When planting shrubs, also ensure digging, transporting and planting are done in sequence, and water thoroughly to increase the seedling survival rate.
2. Spring irrigation: because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, in order to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas in a timely manner.
3. Fertilization: after the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
4. Pest and disease control: this month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some seedlings have developed sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller moth has also appeared (use pesticides such as fenitrothion for control). To control nettle caterpillars, the method of digging up pupae can continue to be used.
April: temperatures continue to rise, and trees all sprout, bloom or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.
1. Continue planting trees: in early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late, promptly remove and replant shrubs that died in winter (azaleas, red-flowered loropetalum, etc.), and water newly planted trees thoroughly.
2. Irrigation: continue to water the maintained green spaces in a timely manner.
3. Fertilization: for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as a top dressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.
4. Pruning: cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and evergreen hedges can be pruned.
5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects successively move into bark cracks, tree holes, the base of trunks, wall corners and other places, secrete a white waxy thin cocoon and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom and then buried deeply or soaked in a concentrated manner. Alternatively, pesticides such as fenitrothion can be sprayed. (2) Longhorn beetles begin to become active; a grafting knife or self-made steel wire can be used to remove the larvae, but the wounds should be as small as possible. (3) Control work for other pests and diseases.
6. Maintenance within green spaces: pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.
May: temperatures rise sharply, and trees grow rapidly.
1. Watering: during the peak period of leaf unfolding, trees have a very high water requirement, so they should be watered in a timely manner.
2. Pruning: prune spent flowers. Carry out the first bud-removal pruning of street trees.
3. Pest and disease control: continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of nettle caterpillars hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; take corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids and others has also entered its peak period (on crape myrtle, pittosporum, oleander, etc.). In mid- and late May, spray 10?20 times rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500?2000 times dilution to control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can also be used.)
June: high temperatures
1. Watering: plants have a high water requirement, so water in a timely manner and do not "rely on the weather".
2. Fertilization: combine loosening the soil and weeding, fertilizing and watering to achieve the best effect.
3. Pruning: continue bud removal and tiller removal work on street trees. Carry out pruning on hedges, ball-shaped plants and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
4. Drainage work: during heavy rain, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.
5. Pest and disease control: in mid- and late June, nettle caterpillars enter the peak hatching period, and measures should be taken in a timely manner; at present, spraying 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500?800 times dilution is basically used. (Or compound BT emulsion can be sprayed.) Continue manual capture of longhorn beetles.
6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees, and straighten, reinforce and re-tie loose and leaning trees.
July: the highest temperatures, with strong winds and heavy rain after mid-month.
1. Transplanting evergreen trees: during the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes and water promptly once high temperatures occur.
2. Drainage: drain promptly after heavy rain.
3. Top dressing: apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry before rain.
4. Street trees: carry out typhoon-prevention bud-removal pruning, prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and inspect tree stakes one by one, straightening and tying them tightly immediately if they are loose or unstable. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and send people to inspect at any time to deal with dangers promptly.
5. Pest and disease control: continue to control longhorn beetles and nettle caterpillars. To control longhorn beetles, 50% fenitrothion at 1:50 dilution can be injected (or fruit tree treasure, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the hole, which can also achieve good results. Camphor tree nest borers should be cut off promptly, and the pest nests destroyed to prevent further damage.
August: still the rainy season
1. Drainage: after heavy rain, drain low-lying waterlogged areas promptly.
2. Typhoon prevention work for street trees: continue to do a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.
3. Pruning: in addition to the summer pruning of general trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.
4. Cultivation and weeding: weeds also grow vigorously, so weed promptly, and fertilization can be combined with weeding.
5. Pest and disease control: focus on catching longhorn beetles, and pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree nest borers should be controlled promptly. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot diseases, and take timely measures. September: temperatures decline somewhat; do related work well for National Day.
1. Pruning: in preparation for city appearance work, remove buds below the third-level branching of street trees. Shape hedges. Weed in green spaces, edge lawns, and promptly remove dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and neat.
2. Fertilization: for some trees that grow weakly and have branches that are not full enough, apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
3. Pest and disease control: shot hole disease (cherry blossoms, peaches, plums, etc.) is at its peak; use 500% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to shift to roots to cause damage, so pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also promptly control wood borers on poplars and willows. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.
4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of greening facilities.
October: temperatures decline; in late October, early winter begins, trees begin to shed leaves, and successively enter the dormant period.
1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting; in late October, once cold-tolerant trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.
2. Green space maintenance: promptly remove dead trees and water in a timely manner. Weed and edge green spaces and lawns well. Fertilize herbaceous flowers that grow poorly.
3. Pest and disease control: continue catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree nest borers. November: the soil begins to freeze at night and thaw during the day, entering the depths of winter.
1. Tree planting: continue planting cold-tolerant plants, and complete before the soil freezes.
2. Turning the soil: turn the soil in green spaces to expose pests preparing to overwinter.
3. Watering: water dry and hardened soil, and complete before freezing.
4. Pest and disease control: various pests prepare to overwinter in late November, so the control task is relatively light.
December: low temperatures; begin winter maintenance work.
1. Winter pruning: prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.
2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.
3. Prepare well for next year's adjustment work: after deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and draw the positions to be adjusted.
7. Green Space Maintenance Quality Objectives
1 Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is proper, achieving no exposed loess.
2 Landscape plants
2.1 Growth is normal. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replanted seedlings survive within one year.
2.2 Landscape trees have basically complete crowns, with main and side branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, and reasonably pruned; the interior is not messy, and ventilation and light transmission are good. Flowering shrubs bloom promptly and normally, and are pruned promptly after flowering. Hedges and color blocks have normal branches and leaves and are neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green spaces.
2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth, and leaf size and color are normal. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves, and leaves with insect honeydew or insect webs shall not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves shall be above 90%. Coniferous
Part Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"
Annual Greening Maintenance Plan
January
1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning on various deciduous trees, cutting off dead branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and lower side branches, to ensure that tree development tends to be reasonable, tree branch form is improved, and the breeding of pests and diseases is reduced.
2. Appropriately thin out trees that are too densely growing, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth.
3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and carry out winter fertilization on all trees, ground cover and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.
4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating landscape pests. You can dig up the pupae and cocoons of nettle caterpillars in the loose soil under the trees and burn them in a concentrated manner.
5. As appropriate, dethatch individual types of lawns, and prune 1-2 times. February
1. Carry out weeding, pruning and fertilization work on lawns.
2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on narrow-leaved mahonia and the globular mealybug on coral and Japanese fatsia.
3. In particular, strengthen antifreeze and heat preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening and earthing up the soil around tree roots.
4. Apply a top dressing (urea) to cool-season lawns once at the end of the month at 10 g/mu.
March
1. To prevent spring drought, water trees in a timely manner.
2. Promptly roll lawns and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.
3. Pest and disease control: strengthen observation and patrol, and do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control. In particular, pay special attention to sooty mold and the boxwood leaf roller moth. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on crabapples and cool-season lawns; pay attention to prevention and reporting.
4. For local sunken and low-lying spots appearing in lawns, carry out earthing up and sand covering, and carry out low pruning on winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the sprouting and growth of the underlying grass.
April
1. Do a good job of loosening the soil, weeding and pre-flowering fertilization for field-planted flowers and trees. In particular, apply light fertilizer to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers, and for lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as a top dressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.
2. Cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and begin pruning evergreen hedges.
3. Pest and disease control: mainly control aphids, sooty mold and beetles. And keep relevant records.
May
1. This month is the peak period of tree leaf unfolding, with a very high water requirement, so water in a timely manner.
2. Prune spring flowering shrubs such as osmanthus and hall crabapple, and promptly carry out bud removal work on London plane, red-leaf plum, crape myrtle and other trees.
3. Weed flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out weeding work on lawns, and prune lawn grass in a timely manner to control its height.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.
June
1. Water plants in a timely manner to ensure sufficient water supply for plants.
2. Loosen the soil and weed tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out weeding work on lawns.
3. Lawns should be pruned in a timely manner, and their growth height should be controlled, and attention should be paid to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply compound fertilizer once more to lawns that grow poorly or lack fertilizer, so that they can safely pass the summer.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.
July
1. In high-temperature weather, in particular, ensure that watering work for plants is implemented.
2. Carry out soil loosening and weeding work on flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of weeding ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity; weeds grow quickly, so seize the opportunity to carry out weeding work, prevent the formation of a weed overgrowth, and continue cultivation, weeding and loosening the soil.
3. Earnestly do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention, reinforce and strengthen the trees in the garden to prevent lodging; and promptly dredge and drain low-lying or seriously waterlogged places.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting and control.
August
1. Carry out summer pruning on evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning on hedges.
2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so remove them and mow in time, control the lawn height, and combine weeding with fertilizing. Apply supplementary and additional fertilizer in time, mainly P and K fertilizer together with N fertilizer; for small saplings, shrubs and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently, and at the same time pay attention to the timing of fertilization and the weather.
3. In hot weather, be sure to carry out daily watering and drought relief work; it must not be done between 10:00 and 15:00, to avoid burning the seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)
4. Continue to do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention, further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and for low-lying places prone to water accumulation, dredge drainage ditches in time to prevent water from standing for too long.
5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, early warning and prevention.
September
1. Carry out shaping and pruning of hedges. Remove weeds in green areas and clean up dead trees in time, so that tree branches are green and leaves lush and the green areas are clean and tidy.
2. Thin out trees that are too densely grown, and at the same time carry out bud removal work.
3. Lawns should be mowed, edged and cleared of weeds in time, and attention should be paid to the prevention and control of pests and diseases.
4. Carry out hoeing and weeding for flower beds and colored-block shrubs, at the same time do a good job of hand-weeding ground cover, and collect flower seeds.
5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, early warning and prevention.
October
1. Prune spherical shrubs to ensure a beautiful appearance, neatness and distinct layers. Prune the tree shape of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend to be reasonable and their tree posture and appearance are improved.
2. Strengthen the management of newly planted flowering herbaceous plants, fill empty and bare spots in time, water, and fertilize those with poor growth.
3. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and early warning, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. November
1. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light transmission, to reduce pests and diseases and enhance growth vigor.
2. For flower beds, colored-block shrubs and green areas, do a good job of hand-weeding and edging, pull out weeds in time, and replant empty and bare spots in time. Adjust trees in the local layout as appropriate; some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species can be transplanted. Also begin cold protection and warmth work, and for trees with
poor cold resistance, wrap them with rice straw and earth up.
3. Strengthen the maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. Scarify and aerate the lawn as appropriate, and at the same time mow 2-3 times.
4. Carry out fertilization work in late this month, and carry out green area soil turning combined with additional application of organic fertilizer.
5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and early warning, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records. December
1. For colored-block shrubs and green areas, do a good job of hand-weeding and edging, and pull out weeds in time.
2. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly to remove stubs and dead branches, in order to make the trees grow better the next year (flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds must not be pruned), and at the same time pay attention to cleaning up insect cocoons on trunks and branches.
3. Wrap sago palms, date palms and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they overwinter safely.
4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and early warning, actively prevent and control, and keep relevant records.
Part Four: "Latest Commonly Used Plants in Southern Landscapes"
Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern Landscapes
Evergreen trees:
Norfolk Island pine, slash pine, Chinese fir, Caribbean pine, Chinese weeping cypress, mahogany, bigleaf mahogany, false sterculia, Chinese saraca, sugar apple, longan, human-face tree, firepower magnolia, golden shower tree, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Fujian cypress, Buddhist pine, Japanese cedar, Buddhist pine (podocarp), longleaf podocarp, bailan magnolia, southern magnolia, houpo magnolia, burmann cinnamon, camphor tree, cinnamon, bitter catalpa, Hainan ormosia, Taiwan acacia, siamese senna, red camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree, camel's foot tree (Bauhinia variegata), almond, mango, flower rosewood, water banyan, water stone banyan, avocado, devil tree, false betel nut palm, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, sapodilla, lemon-scented gum, river red gum, swamp mahogany, blue gum, cajuput, butterfly fruit, Chinese torreya, Chinese plum yew, Indian rubber fig, mountain fig, small-leaved fig, large-fruited fig, weeping fig, big-leaved fig, sacred fig, beefwood, jackfruit, cinnamon-leaf maple (Acer cinnamomifolium), tanbark oak, oriental white oak, candlenut, silk oak, pointed-leaf elaeocarpus, large-leaf elaeocarpus, sea hibiscus, rough-barked holly, glossy privet, osmanthus, loquat, albizia, royal palm, fishtail palm (Caryota), Mexican fan palm, sugar palm, longleaf date palm, autumn maple, rosewood, large-flowered dillenia, jackfruit, yellow cassia, tree jackfruit, large-leaf privet, Lechang Michelia, schefflera, shield aralia
Deciduous trees:
Small-leaf terminalia, Chinese swamp cypress, water winter melon, Chinese tallow, Japanese raisin tree, sand pear, soapberry, entire-leaf goldenrain tree, frangipani, bald cypress, pond cypress, Chinese tulip tree, white magnolia, Chinese parasol tree, sawtooth oak, cork oak, Chinese hackberry, Chinese elm, white oak, happy tree, large-flowered crape myrtle, beautiful silk floss tree, flame tree, peacock flower, jacaranda, yellow cassia, chinaberry, Chinese mahogany, coral tree, cockspur coral tree, chestnut, silk tree, sweet acacia, prickly castor-oil tree, sweetgum, weeping willow, two-season magnolia, purple-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, papaya, India
rosewood, red-leaf plum
Evergreen shrubs:
Sago palm, Chinese plum yew, orchid tree (Aglaia), large-leaf boxwood, dense-flowered elaeagnus, camellia sasanqua, South China coral tree, spotted aucuba, St. John's wort, three-medicine betel nut palm, areca palm, qiong palm, four-season orchid tree, soft-branch allamanda, small-leaf justicia (Justicia), red bottlebrush, Fukien tea, gardenia, crown of thorns, poinsettia, Yunnan jasmine, aucuba, Chinese holly, foreign azalea, shiny-leaf cordyline, croton, red mulberry, golden-edge mulberry, golden-leaf fig, smooth senna, red-stemmed rhododendron, ardisia, orange jasmine, red-back eurya, climbing ylang-ylang, camellia, oil tea, large-leaf tea, oleander, yellow oleander, small-flowered allamanda, June snow, banana shrub, pittosporum, mahonia, heavenly bamboo, Japanese fatsia, night-blooming magnolia, Chinese hibiscus, lantern flower, red azalea, sword yucca, yucca, South China boxwood, axle palm, soft-leaf date palm, short-spike fishtail palm, dwarf lady palm, rhapis palm,
golden fig, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, golden-vein justicia, schefflera, variegated golden dewdrop, yellow-leaf golden dewdrop, justicia (Justicia), golden-leaf privet, giant taro, bird's nest fern, monstera, cast-iron plant, snake plant, thick-leaf rhaphiolepis, variegated hibiscus, purple brocade tree, small-leaf boxwood, African jasmine, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow, ximeili, crinum lily, spider lily, powderpuff, red-leaf loropetalum, large-flowered datura, white mussaenda, red mussaenda, hairy azalea, Western azalea, twin-pod senna, hard-bone trumpet flower, rose myrtle, ixora, Yunnan yellow jasmine, jasmine, fiddle-leaf coral, blue snowflake, blue star flower, butterfly, heavenly bamboo, pepper tree, red-back eurya,
Deciduous shrubs:
Cotton rose, bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), Vanhoutte spiraea (Spiraea vanhouttei), modern rose, abelia (Abelia chinensis), pomegranate, beautyberry, purple magnolia, lespedeza, Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii), Chinese snowball, rose of Sharon, redbud, Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea prunifolia), Thunberg spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), butterfly tree, elderberry, fig, Sichuan pepper, trifoliate orange, butterfly bush, small wax
Vines:
Monstera, bougainvillea, chicken-blood vine, firecracker vine, rangoon creeper, three-leaf akebia, honeysuckle, fortune's euonymus, climbing fig, kiwi, creeping euonymus, Hong Kong rhaphidophora, birdwood's mucuna (Mucuna birdwoodiana), wax flower, rhaphidophora, pothos, star jasmine, Chinese ivy, English ivy, South China schisandra, Boston ivy, trumpet creeper, passionflower, multi-flowered crape myrtle, evergreen mucuna, large-flowered thunbergia
Climbing ylang-ylang, large-flowered thunbergia, rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, firecracker vine, white-flowered mucuna, beautiful clerodendrum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, maple-leaf morning glory, snake vine, common jasmine (Jasminum officinale), large-flowered dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, violet trumpet vine (Clytostoma callistegioides), passionflower
Bamboo:
Green-skin bamboo, Chung's bamboo (Bambusa chungii), moso bamboo, fernleaf bamboo, glaucous bamboo (Phyllostachys glauca), golden-striped bamboo, Emei bamboo (Bambusa emeiensis), hedge bamboo, bitter bamboo, indocalamus, Buddha belly bamboo, giant bamboo (Dendrocalamus latiflorus), green-skin bamboo, Thai bamboo, pervari bamboo (Bambusa pervariabilis), square bamboo, green bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), red bamboo
Lawn and ground cover plants:
Bermuda grass, Chinese lawngrass, fine-leaf lawngrass, carpet grass, centipede grass, knotgrass (Paspalum distichum), Manila grass, lawngrass, Guangdong evergreen, purple spiderwort, Moses-in-the-cradle (Tradescantia spathacea), lilyturf, large-leaf curculigo, creeping liriope (Liriope spicata), lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant black-eye flower, sweet flag, autumn zephyrlily (Zephyranthes candida), rosy zephyrlily (Zephyranthes grandiflora), golden spider lily (Lycoris aurea), white butterfly, butterfly flower, red-flowered oxalis, inch plant,
Purple-backed maranta, arrowhead plant, white-butterfly arrowhead plant, pothos, inch plant, sword fern, clearweed, small Moses-in-the-cradle (Tradescantia), peace lily, silver-edge lilyturf, red-flowered lantana, yellow-flowered lantana, purple-flowered lantana
dan, dusty miller, bleeding glorybower, shrimp plant, firecracker plant (Russelia), asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, English ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, three-lobed wedelia, red-flowered oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf amaranth, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, autumn zephyrlily (Zephyranthes candida), rosy zephyrlily (Zephyranthes grandiflora), amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean lawngrass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf oil grass, variegated blunt grass, bahia grass, short-leaf lilyturf
Palms:
Royal palm, Washington palm, triangle palm, king palm, foxtail palm, Butia palm, bottle palm, club palm, Middle East date palm, Canary Island date palm, Bismarck palm (Bismarckia nobilis), oil palm, fishtail palm (Caryota), palm, dragon-scale palm, Chinese fan palm, queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), fishtail palm, queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Mexican fan palm, beautiful date palm, short-spike fishtail palm, long-spike fishtail palm, areca palm, three-medicine betel nut palm, traveler's palm, lady palm,
Seasonal flowers
Star flower, African impatiens, four-season begonia, scarlet sage, petunia, hybrid dianthus, ornamental kale, French marigold, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, summer pansy, cockscomb, pot marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, moss rose, purslane, cosmos, cineraria, spider flower, daylily, lavender, purple loosestrife
Part Five: "Examples of Southern Plant Configurations"
Southern Plant Configurations
Monstera + umbrella plant + variegated galangal
Large horse-tail iron + seven-color horse-tail iron + heavenly bamboo + sword fern + placed stones
Royal palm + fishtail palm (Caryota) + beautiful date palm + canna + coleus + croton
Royal palm + Canary Island date palm head + red iron + red mulberry + ixora
Royal palm + false betel nut palm + areca palm + large-leaf lady palm + golden leaf
Part Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South"
Commonly Used Plants in Southern Courtyards
I. Palms:
1. Royal palm 2. False betel nut palm 3. Washington palm 4. Silver date palm 5. Canary Island date palm 6. Three-medicine betel nut palm
7. Chinese fan palm 8. Mexican fan palm 9. Areca palm 10. Lady palm (fine-leaf lady palm) 11. slender lady palm (Rhapis humilis) 12. Soft-leaf date palm
II. Trees (street trees, shade trees):
1. Flame tree 2. Kapok 3. Beautiful silk floss tree 4. Coral tree 5. Pointed-leaf elaeocarpus 6. Devil tree
7. Small-leaf banyan 8. Water stone banyan 9. Mango 10. Chinese mahogany 11. Burmann cinnamon 12. Large-flowered crape myrtle
13. Rosewood 14. Frangipani 15. Terminalia tree 16. Traveler's palm 17. Red-spined pandanus 18. Autumn maple
19. Star fruit 20. Pointed-leaf osmanthus 21. Golden shower tree 22. Albizia 23. Cajuput
24. Eucalyptus 25. Hainan rose apple 26. Large-leaf aphanamixis 27. Camel's foot tree 28. Mahogany
29. Mountain fig 30. Flame tree 31. Yellow-flowered trumpet tree 32. Double-feathered goldenrain tree
III. Flowering shrubs:
1. Four-season osmanthus 2. Fine-leaf qinsi bamboo 3. Tree fern 4. Yellow banyan 5. Bougainvillea
6. Yellow cassia 7. Red bottlebrush 8. Golden-edge sisal 9. Chinese hibiscus 10. Fagraea 11. Variegated banyan
12. Chinese hibiscus 13. Banana shrub 14. Crape myrtle 15. Powderpuff 16. Tabernaemontana 17. Dragon society orchid
18. Mauritius hemp (Furcraea) 19. Yucca 20. Firecracker vine 21. Yellow oleander 22. Polyscias
IV. Ground cover or color blocks:
1. Pittosporum 2. Monstera 3. Pothos 4. Bird's nest fern 5. Red gem 6. Large-leaf polygonum 7. Schefflera
8. Little angel 9. Golden leaf 10. Cigar flower 11. Fine-leaf frog orchid 12. Three-star maranta 13. Hairy azalea
14. Dwarf Chinese fan palm 15. Bird's nest fern 16. Variegated golden dewdrop 17. Spider lily 18. Inch plant 19. Soft-branch allamanda
20. Variegated galangal 21. Asparagus fern 22. Golden peanut 23. Fine-leaf ixora 24. Sword fern 25. Yellow shrimp flower
26. White butterfly 27. Clearweed 28. Variegated dieffenbachia 29. Rainbow cordyline 30. Croton 31. Lilyturf
32. Silver-edge grass 33. Jasmine 34. Velvet maranta 35. Taiwan grass 36. Large-leaf oil grass
37. Manila grass 38. Bermuda grass 39. Ryegrass 40. Tall fescue
There are also some commonly used plants:
1. Sacred fig 2. Mountain fig 3. Water stone banyan 4. Bell flower 5. National Day flower 6. Golden shower tree
7. Siamese senna 8. Sausage tree 9. Thailand yellow large yellow flower ball 10. Golden fragrant willow
11. Winged-pod senna 12. Twin-pod sophora 13. Daily cherry 14. Water banyan 15. Grey manglietia
16. Hainan sajin 17. Variegated money tree 18. Hainan ormosia 19. Mahogany
20. Albizia 21. Sandalwood cinnamon 22. Autumn osmanthus 23. Bay laurel 24. Mexican fan palm 25. Fine-leaf qinsi bamboo
26. Indian yellow (purple) sandalwood 27. Rosewood 28. flax lily (Dianella) 29. Leizhou banyan 30. Cat-tail tree
Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South
1. Evergreen trees
Norfolk Island pine, Cunningham's araucaria, oil fir, large-leaf araucaria, kauri, masson pine, slash pine, camphor tree, Japanese cinnamon (Cinnamomum japonicum), giant tail eucalyptus, cajuput, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, autumn maple, Taiwan acacia, mangium (Acacia mangium), ear-pod acacia, rosewood, small-leaf banyan, large-leaf banyan, mountain fig, bird fig, Indian rubber fig, variegated Indian rubber fig, sacred fig, candlenut, mahogany, dillenia, devil tree, terminalia tree, small-leaf terminalia, jackfruit, Java apple (Syzygium samarangense), human-face tree, sapodilla, Chinese mahogany, beefwood, white magnolia, night-blooming magnolia, firepower magnolia, small-leaf elaeocarpus, southern magnolia, sea hibiscus, mango, longan, lychee, olive, loquat, bayberry, pomelo, water stone banyan, Buddhist pine, dragon juniper, Buddhist pine (podocarp), osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, banana shrub, orchid tree, camellia, weeping fig, butterfly fruit, oblique-leaf fig
2. Deciduous trees
Dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, Chinese swamp cypress, Chinese tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, Bischofia (Bischofia polycarpa), albizia, large-leaf silk tree, silver wattle, sweetgum, weeping willow, sausage tree, cadamba (Neolamarckia cadamba), silk oak, Chinese hackberry, soapberry, Chinese pistache, chinaberry, Chinese tallow, Chinese wood oil tree (Vernicia montana), ginkgo, sterculia (Sterculia monosperma), persimmon, fig, mulberry, papaya, guava, red maple, sweet acacia
3. Palms
False betel nut palm, royal palm, king palm, bottle palm, club palm, triangle palm, foxtail palm, queen palm, oil palm, sugar palm, Washingtonia (Washingtonia), Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Middle East date palm, Iranian honey date, Chinese fan palm, fishtail palm (Caryota), sugar palm, date palm (Phoenix), soft-leaf date palm, three-medicine betel nut palm, green palm, fragrant palm, long-spike fishtail palm, short-spike fishtail palm, areca palm, palm, banana, traveler's palm, cordyline, lady palm, fine-leaf lady palm, Nikolai bird of paradise, red-stem philodendron, false taro
4. Foliage shrubs
Golden-leaf weeping fig, golden fig, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, Garcinia (Garcinia subelliptica), variegated reed bamboo, mast tree (Polyalthia longifolia), red-spined pandanus, pittosporum, variegated hibiscus, sago palm, red bottlebrush, woody night jasmine, smoketree (Cotinus), golden-vein justicia, Japanese fatsia, creeping juniper, variegated cassava, heavenly bamboo, schefflera, variegated schefflera, pepper tree, red-back eurya, red mulberry, Japanese lilac, false golden dewdrop, variegated false golden dewdrop, yellow-leaf false golden dewdrop, orange jasmine, croton, croton (Codiaeum), Hainan croton, spotted croton, justicia (Justicia), Fukien tea, small-leaf boxwood, golden-leaf privet, crown of thorns, yellow-striped Mauritius hemp (Furcraea), agave, silver-edge agave, yucca, bottle palm, cast-iron plant, snake plant, cactus, giant taro, bird's nest fern, monstera, variegated shell ginger, beach naupaka (Scaevola), thick-leaf rhaphiolepis, Breynia (Breynia), Ceylon phyllanthus, Chinese rose
5. Flowering shrubs
African jasmine, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow, Japanese jasmine (Jasminum), rose of Sharon, Chinese hibiscus, lantern flower, wax mallow (Malvaviscus), poinsettia, powderpuff, bougainvillea, large-flowered gardenia, hydrangea, red-bract flower, Malastoma (Melastoma), red-leaf loropetalum, large-flowered datura, white mussaenda, red mussaenda, allamanda, Western azalea, twin-pod senna, hard-bone trumpet flower, rose myrtle, ixora, bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea), Yunnan yellow jasmine, jasmine, crinum lily,
spider lily, crab-claw flower, dwarf canna, yellow flax (Reinwardtia), fiddle-leaf coral, blue snowflake, blue star flower, butterfly
6. Ground cover
Purple-backed maranta, arrowhead plant, white-butterfly arrowhead plant, pothos, inch plant, sword fern, clearweed, small oyster plant (Tradescantia), peace lily, lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, red-flowered lantana, yellow-flowered lantana, purple-flowered lantana, dusty miller, bleeding glorybower, shrimp plant, firecracker plant (Russelia), asparagus fern, beach evening primrose, beach morning glory, English ivy, star jasmine, ginger lily, umbrella plant, papyrus, iris, purple loosestrife, narcissus, lotus, water lily, three-lobed wedelia, red-flowered oxalis, Brazilian peanut vine, dichondra, purple amaranth, round-leaf amaranth, coleus, fine-leaf verbena, red-green grass, zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), rosy zephyr lily (Zephyranthes grandiflora), amaryllis, lily, calla lily, periwinkle, centipede grass, Manila grass, Korean lawngrass, Bermuda grass, large-leaf oil grass, variegated blunt grass, bahia grass, short-leaf lilyturf
7. Vines
Large-flowered thunbergia, rangoon creeper, coral vine, Boston ivy, firecracker vine, white-flowered mucuna, beautiful clerodendrum, wisteria, climbing fig, cypress vine, morning glory, maple-leaf morning glory, snake vine, common jasmine (Jasminum officinale), large-flowered dutchman's pipe, garlic vine, wood rose, violet trumpet vine (Clytostoma callistegioides), passionflower
Part Seven: "Southern Common Plant Configuration Document"
Practical Plant Configuration Table — A Concise Table of Common Plant Configurations
Aquatic plants:
Wetland plants: Hankow willow, weeping willow, cotton willow, sand willow, basket willow (Salix viminalis), Wallich willow (Salix wallichiana), small-leaf poplar, Maximowicz poplar (Populus maximowiczii), sand cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese arborvitae, dawn redwood, chinaberry, Chinese wingnut, white ash, forsythia, elm, laciniate elm (Ulmus laciniata), Chinese elm, Chinese tallow, cherry blossom, eucommia, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, rose of Sharon, oleander, Boston ivy, grape, wisteria, false indigo, tamarisk, buttercup, water hyacinth grass, Halerpestes (Halerpestes), willowherb (Epilobium), loosestrife (Lysimachia), marsh woundwort (Stachys), Chinese woundwort (Stachys), mint, Lindernia (Lindernia), speedwell, watercress, bulrush (Scirpus), triangular bulrush (Scirpus triangulatus), flat-stem bulrush (Scirpus planiculmis), rice galingale (Cyperus serotinus), galingale (Cyperus), globe flatsedge (Pycreus globosus), flatsedge (Pycreus), jointed rush (Juncus), small-flowered rush (Juncus), toad rush (Juncus), slender rush (Juncus), knotgrass (Polygonum aviculare), small knotweed (Polygonum plebeium), prince's feather (Polygonum orientale), clustered knotweed (Polygonum), dock-leaved knotweed (Polygonum lapathifolium), willow-leaf knotweed (Polygonum), small arrow-leaf knotweed (Polygonum), perfoliate knotweed (Polygonum perfoliatum), prickly knotweed (Polygonum), halberd-leaf knotweed (Polygonum), large halberd-leaf knotweed (Polygonum), Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum), cogon grass (Imperata cylindrica), reed grass (Calamagrostis), large-leaf reed grass (Calamagrostis), American slough grass (Beckmannia), beard grass (Polypogon), false reed (Arundinella), silver grass (Miscanthus sacchariflorus), Job's tears (Coix), limpograss (Hemarthria), marsh gentian (Gentianopsis paludosa),
Emergent plants: water scallion, reed, lotus root, arrowhead, water plantain (Caldesia), water plantain, lotus, purple loosestrife, cattail, Monochoria (Monochoria), Monochoria (Monochoria korsakowii), sweet flag, pickerelweed, rice, Kandelia (Kandelia), narcissus, water celery, wild rice stem, taro, water clover (Marsilea), reed, water chestnut, river bulrush (Scirpus yagara), spikerush (Eleocharis), narrow-leaf cattail (Typha angustifolia), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), broad-leaf cattail (Typha latifolia)
Floating plants: duckweed, water hyacinth, water lily, gorgon nut, Victoria water lily, yellow water lily (Nuphar), water hyacinth, floating heart (Nymphoides), water shield, bladderwort (Utricularia aurea), floating fern, floating heart (Nymphoides),
Submerged plants: hornwort, water plantain
Colored-leaf plants:
Red or purple: sweetgum, lacquer tree, Japanese maple, Amur maple (Acer ginnala), South China bittersweet, red oak, maple (Acer), Chinese tallow, staghorn sumac, sumac, mountain ash, heavenly bamboo, euonymus, hawthorn, Chinese pistache, Chinese wingnut, barberry, Hupeh hornbeam (Carpinus hupeana), Boston ivy
Golden yellow or yellow-brown: ginkgo, persimmon, goldenrain tree, Chinese tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, elm, walnut, catalpa, dawn redwood, crape myrtle, Chinese elm, nanmu, wild jujube, kiwi, horse chestnut, Korean mountain ash (Sorbus alnifolia), wintersweet, pomegranate, yellow cassia, witch hazel, soapberry, sweet acacia
Aromatic plants:
Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: mint, basil, lemon balm, German chamomile, lemongrass, sage, dandelion, pot marigold, thyme, borage, scented geranium, mallow and other herbaceous plants, and lavender, rosemary, gardenia, rose, lemon verbena and other shrubs.
Woody plants with fragrance in turn through the four seasons can be arranged as follows: plum blossoms and orange blossoms in spring; gardenia and white magnolia in summer; osmanthus in autumn and wintersweet in winter.
Pollution-resistant and exhaust-resistant plants: black locust, paulownia, lacebark pine, Chinese juniper, coral tree, photinia, pittosporum, Japanese fatsia, etc.
Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, false indigo, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas
Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: dwarf yew, Buddhist pine, Chinese torreya, Japanese holly (Ilex crenata), camphor tree, bayberry, glossy privet, ternstroemia (Ternstroemia), viburnum, aucuba, mahonia, firethorn, boxwood, pittosporum, Japanese fatsia, etc., butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii), Chinese pistache, and other fragrant-flower plants (such as plants of the Rutaceae family, Citrus genus)
Perennial (herbaceous) flowers: red-hot poker (torch lily), lupine, blue fescue, astilbe, coreopsis, trailing loosestrife, oregano, hibiscus, red-flowered mint, variegated star jasmine, creeping mesembryanthemum, hellebore, lycoris, daylily, iris, spiderwort, hosta, variegated canna, red-leaf canna, New York aster, Japanese silverleaf, bletilla, perennial beauty bush
Year-round flowering trees and shrubs:
Spring: various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus spectabilis, Malus cathayensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia liliflora var. rubra, Michelia figo, Michelia maudiae, etc.), redbud, red-leaf
plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.
Summer: crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, hydrangea, Michelia figo, summer azalea, pomegranate (flower), gardenia, Chinese trumpet creeper, silk tree, sweet acacia. Autumn: osmanthus, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, flowering pomegranate, cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, etc.
Winter: honeysuckle, heavenly bamboo, plum blossom, Michelia figo, camellia, sasanqua, etc.
Classification of common landscaping tree species:
(1) Evergreen conifers
1. Tree types: deodar cedar, Korean pine, Japanese black pine, dragon juniper, masson pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Japanese cedar, Torreya grandis
2. Shrub types: (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Platycladus orientalis 'Globosa', Calocedrus macrolepis, Sabina procumbens, Cryptomeria japonica, five-needle pine
(2) Deciduous conifers (no shrubs):
Tree types: dawn redwood, golden larch, pond cypress, bald cypress
(3) Evergreen broadleaf trees:
1. Tree types: camphor tree, Magnolia grandiflora, glossy privet, palm
2. Shrub types: coral tree, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Buxus bodinieri, Ilex cornuta, citrus tree, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, oleander, Jasminum floridum, winter jasmine, variegated coral tree, heavenly bamboo, Serissa japonica, Ligustrum quihoui, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Distylium racemosum, camellia, Hypericum, azalea, Yucca (yucca, Adam's needle), sago palm (iron tree), Mahonia
(4) Deciduous broadleaf trees:
1. Tree types: weeping willow, upright willow, Chinese wingnut, dragon-claw willow, Chinese tallow, pagoda tree, Chinese parasol tree (Chinese
parasol tree), London plane (French plane), pagoda tree (Chinese scholar tree), Sophora japonica 'Pendula', silk tree, ginkgo, chinaberry (Melia azedarach), catalpa
2. Shrub types: cherry blossom, Magnolia denudata, peach blossom, wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, maple, green maple, red-leaf plum, Chaenomeles speciosa, bellflower crabapple, hydrangea, bridal wreath spirea, Forsythia (golden bells), cotton rose, rose of Sharon (hibiscus), Alchornea (guìyuán tree), pomegranate
(5) Bamboo types: Bambusa multiplex, Phyllostachys bambusoides, moso bamboo, black bamboo, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', fernleaf bamboo, Buddha belly bamboo, golden bamboo with jade-green stripes
(6) Vines: wisteria, star jasmine, Boston ivy (climbing ivy, wall creeper), English ivy, grape vine, Euonymus fortunei
(7) Flowers: moss rose, chrysanthemum, scarlet sage, canna, Joseph's coat, cabbage (ornamental kale), chrysanthemum, orchid
(8) Lawn: velvet grass, zoysia grass, dwarf lilyturf, evergreen grass, tall fescue, Manila grass, clover, dichondra
Detailed table of commonly used plant arrangements
Table of commonly used street trees
Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics
Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, alternate leaves, triplinerved, aromatic, spherical berries.
London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovoid Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.
Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form
Flamboyant tree Delonix regia Raffin Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August
Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosoideae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree
Sweet acacia Albizia farnesiana Wild. Mimosoideae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, fast-growing, densely branched and leafy, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor
Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying wet land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form
Banyan tree Ficus retusa Linn. Moraceae Spherical Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various pruning styles
Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora Ness. Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and rounded, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form
Chinese fan palm Livitonia chinensis R.Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, dark green leaf surface, vigorous growth, very beautiful posture
Longan tree Euphoria longana Lanark. Sapindaceae Round Evergreen tree with round crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow growth, very beautiful posture
Chinaberry (Melia azedarach) Melia azedarach Linn. Meliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous tree, fast-growing, irregular crown, slightly umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple
Chinese parasol tree Sterculia platanifolia L. Sterculiaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, broad leaves, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old
Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, umbrella-shaped crown, beautiful posture
Formosan alder Alnus formosana Makino. Fagaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and beautiful tree form
Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Norfolk Island pine Araucaria cuninghamii Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, prefers warm hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fertilizer-loving, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, graceful posture
Qinghai spruce Picea carassifolia Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for the northwest region
Korean pine Pinus koraiensis Pinaceae Tower-shaped Evergreen conifer, weakly sun-loving, prefers cool humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green
Chinese juniper (Chinese juniper) Sabina chinensis Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen conifer, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and barren soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerant of pruning, good dust-proofing and sound-insulating effect
Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovoid Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,
Acacia confusa Acacia confusa Merr. Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth
Date palm Phoenix dactylifera L. Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, branching trunk, strong heat resistance, vigorous growth, beautiful posture
Canary Island date palm (Canary date palm) Phoenix dactylifera Arecaceae Pinnate Evergreen broadleaf tree, thick trunk, tall and majestic, pinnate leaves dense and spreading,
Royal palm (royal coconut) Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, can reach 18m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value
Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, not tolerant of waterlogging, resistant to various toxic gases
Chinese tulip tree (horse jacket tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape resembling a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.
Chinese white poplar Populus tomentosa Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers cool temperate climates, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, relatively long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark gray-white
Lombardy poplar Populus nigra var. italica Salicaceae Narrow cylindrical Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of salinity and waterlogging, fast-growing
Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, tolerant of drought and barren soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity
Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
Table of characteristics of commonly used landscape trees
Name Scientific name Family Tree shape Characteristics
Camphor tree Cinnamomun camphcra Lauraceae Spherical Evergreen large tree, alternate leaves, triplinerved, aromatic, spherical berries.
London plane Platanus x acerifolia Platanaceae Ovoid Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerant of pruning. Large crown with dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.
Magnolia grandiflora Magnolia grandiflora L. Magnoliaceae Ovoid Evergreen tree, flowers large white and fragrant, beautiful tree form,
Magnolia denudata Magnolia denudata Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Fairly cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for courtyard viewing.
Chinese tulip tree (horse jacket tree) Liriodendron chinense Magnoliaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape resembling a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.
Oriental arborvitae Thuja orientalis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long-lived, beautiful tree form
Ash tree Faxinus insularis Hemsl. Oleaceae Round Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Bischofia Bischoffia javanica Blanco Euphorbiaceae Round Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form
Weeping willow Salix babylonica Linn. Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous sub-tree, suitable for low-lying wet land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form
Calocedrus macrolepis Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz Cupressaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, irregular longitudinal fissures; branchlets alternate, green when young, flat.
Royal coconut Roystonea regia Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single upright trunk, can reach 18m tall, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value
Euonymus japonicus Euonymus japonica Celastraceae Ovoid Prefers warm humid climates, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.
Maple Liquidamdar formosana Hance. Hamamelidaceae Conical Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form
Chinese wingnut Pterocarya stenoptera Juglandaceae Umbrella-shaped Highly adaptable, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree
Sabina procumbens Sabina procumbens Cupressaceae Evergreen creeping low shrub, branches and trunk sprawling along the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, uniquely styled tree form, branches and leaves emerald green and flowing. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard rocks, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
Duranta Duranta repens Verbenaceae Round Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Golden dewdrop is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, can be used as ground cover, pruned into shapes, formed into patterns, or used to emphasize color combinations, dazzling and eye-catching. Ilex cornuta Ilex cornuta Aquifoliaceae Round Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. Moraceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, beautiful posture
Chinese elm Ulmus parvifolia Ulmaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm humid climates, tolerant of drought and barren soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity
Chinese juniper Juniperus Chinensis Linn Cupressaceae Conical Evergreen medium tree, branches densely grown, dark green, vigorous growth, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form
Pittosporum tobira Pittosporum tobira Pittosporaceae Round White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as hedges or potted plants. Date palm Phoenix dactylifera Linn Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Tillering trunk, can reach 20 to 25m tall, leaves gray-white with arched curves, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form
Hankow willow Salix matsudana Salicaceae Umbrella-shaped Suitable as a shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree
Silk tree Albizia julibrissin Mimosoideae Umbrella-shaped Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree
Japanese black pine Pinus Thumbergii Porl. Pinaceae Conical Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and in pairs, long-lived
Red-leaf plum Prunus cerasifera. F.arropurpurea Rosaceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, red-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purplish-red, blooms pale pink small flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both solitary and group planting, as a backdrop.
Washington palm Washingtonia filifera Wend. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Single cylindrical trunk, swollen at the base, up to 4 to 8m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped and round, vigorous growth, beautiful tree form {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.
Pagoda tree Sophora japonica Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as a shade tree and street tree
Yellow cassia Cassia glauca Lam. Fabaceae Round Deciduous tree, even-pinnate compound leaves, flowers yellow, fast-growing, beautiful tree form
Box elder (ash-leaved maple) Acer negundo Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light salinity, tolerant of pruning, autumn leaves yellow
Japanese maple Acer palmatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped Leaves elegant, autumn leaves red. Suitable for courtyard viewing and potted plants.
Golden larch Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. Pinaceae Ovoid tower-shaped Evergreen tree, branches and leaves gracefully spread, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, leaflets radial, tree form sturdy and upright.
Bottle palm Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Trunk about 3 m tall, base oval and swollen, forming a wine bottle shape, very beautiful posture
Citrus tree Citrus reticulata Rutaceae Round Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.
Chinaberry Melia azedarch Linn. Meliaceae Round Deciduous tree, bark gray-brown, bipinnate odd, pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, fast-growing
Serissa Serissa serissoides Rubiaceae Round Evergreen small shrub. Leaf color dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, good texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, pruned shapes.
Dragon juniper Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort Cupressaceae Upright tower-shaped Evergreen medium tree, branches densely grown, dark green, vigorous growth, very long-lived, very beautiful tree form
Sophora japonica 'Pendula' S. j. cv. Pendula Fabaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches weeping, suitable for courtyard viewing, opposite or row planting
Dragon-claw willow S. m. cv. Tortuosa Salicaceae Round Branches twisted like a dragon, suitable as a shade tree and ornamental tree
Pygmy date palm Phehix Roebelenii Brien. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Upright trunk, 2m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves
Podocarpus Podocaarpus macrophyllus D. Don Podocarpaceae Long conical Evergreen tree, rustic and elegant demeanor, can be pruned as high-grade bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, layered forms for courtyard landscaping and beautification.
Masson pine Pinus massoniana Lamb. Pinaceae Umbrella-shaped Evergreen tree, trunk bark red-brown, winter buds brown, large trees majestic
Heavenly bamboo Nandina domestica Berberidaceae Umbrella-shaped Branches and leaves elegant, red berries in autumn and winter; courtyard viewing, can be group planted or potted. Norfolk Island pine Araucaria ecelsa Br. Araucariaceae Conical Evergreen conifer tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree form, vigorous growth
Glossy privet Ligustrum lucidum Oleaceae Ovoid Flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as hedges or street trees.
Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis R. Br. Arecaceae Umbrella-shaped Upright trunk can reach 6 to 12m tall, leaves round, petiole edges spiny, grows luxuriantly, elegant posture
Platycladus orientalis 'Globosa' Junlperus chinensis cv. Globosa. Cupressaceae Broadly round Shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.
Green maple Acer serrulatum Aceraceae Umbrella-shaped conical Deciduous tree. Trunk upright. Tree form light and graceful, can be grown into noble shaped bonsai, an elegant street tree, landscape tree, forest bathing tree.
Buxus bodinieri B. bodinieri Buxaceae Ovoid Branches and leaves fine and dense, suitable for courtyard viewing. Can be group planted, used as hedges or potted. Japanese cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don Taxodiaceae Conical, ovoid, round Evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful
Chapter 8: "Cultivation and Maintenance of Arecaceae Plants"
Arecaceae is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, well-developed root system, tolerant of drought, tolerant of barren soil, strong resistance to pests and diseases, outstanding for creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This section will introduce their introduction, transplanting and disease control.
Brief introduction to the introduction process
There are 183 genera and about 2400 species of Arecaceae plants worldwide, widely distributed in tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palm plants. A few palm plants have unique adaptability to adverse environments, such as the silver date palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, and quite a few palm species that can tolerate prolonged water immersion, such as the swamp palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems, well-developed root systems, and strong wind resistance, such as the false betel nut and Chinese fan palm.
Since the 1940s, in the construction of numerous tropical and subtropical cities around the world, the landscape effect of palm plants has been recognized, and they have been used as key varieties for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.
Some landscape companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palm plants since the early 1980s. Over the following twenty-plus years, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian and Yunnan, and later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing and Yunnan and other regions, successively set off a boom in introducing, producing and applying palms.
Several units led by Guangdong Palm Landscape Company, based on plant geography and ecology theories, through observational research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatized Arecaceae plants, found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally have cold-tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high-latitude, high-altitude regions of the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palm plants, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, moisture and soil. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing the growth and development of plants; low winter temperatures are the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm plant introduction and acclimatization; through research on the salt tolerance and shade tolerance of palms, researchers screened out a batch of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkali tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of pests and diseases such as palm Phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented the technique of palm seed germination acceleration, mastered the techniques of whole-crown transplanting and large-specification container seedling cultivation of palm plants, and did fruitful work on techniques such as soil improvement and winter cold protection and conservation.
At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palm plants in South China, including royal coconut, Chinese fan palm, bamboo palm, south coconut, fish-tail palm, etc.; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, more than ten species of Arecaceae plants have been successfully applied, mainly including Butia capitata, hairy Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Washington palm, etc., and the related research techniques have been appraised by experts as reaching the world's advanced level.
Taking the Washington palm as an example
On the occurrence and control of Phytophthora disease
Harm and general symptoms of palm Phytophthora disease
This disease often occurs and causes harm on palm plants such as royal coconut, large Chinese fan palm, Washington palm, petticoat palm, and Canary Island date palm. On affected plants, the heart leaves cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the whole plant withers in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora disease is caused by Phytophthora, which can be identified by incubation in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in the soil or on diseased plant residues. The pathogen spreads through watering, rain splash, air movement, etc.
Occurrence pattern of Washington palm Phytophthora disease
This disease occurs during the high-temperature, high-humidity period between summer and autumn. Early drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, soil moisture content
suddenly increasing, poor ventilation, or plants located in drafty positions, are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, continuous-cropping plots. In addition, this disease is often related to severe root injury caused when digging up seedlings, combined with long-distance transport.
When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young tender heart leaf rots, the leaves turn gray-green and droop, and they can be pulled out with slight force. Dissecting the stem, one can see paste-like secretions in the growth point and even the entire heart of the plant, with a foul odor, and the affected tissue can grow white mold-like matter. Severely affected plants also often show root damage, with the main symptoms being blackened, rotting roots, with an abnormal
odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; adult trees planted in green spaces are less affected.
Symptoms
In recent years, it has caused relatively serious damage in nurseries. At the early stage of the disease, yellow-brown water-soaked lesions first appear on the parts close to the ground. The lesions expand rapidly and are slightly sunken, and when moist, the surface is densely covered with white cottony mold, and the diseased part rots and gives off a foul odor. When it occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellow-brown, and white mold grows under moist conditions. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and later the upper part shows wilting. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes when the root system and trunk are cut open, pus-like liquid exudes, and in severe cases the edges of the veins of young leaves carry large amounts of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease. In severe cases, the whole plant wilts, droops, dries up, and eventually dies, with a high mortality rate.
According to investigations, the peak incidence period of this disease is mostly during high-temperature and high-humidity periods, that is, the optimum temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the incidence period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was from July to October, in Xiamen from August to November, in Shanghai from June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of western Pearl River Delta from August to November. However, in all places, the disease can be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically and sometimes appearing in patches.
Control methods
I. Prevention through cultivation measures
1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness, and drainage in the nursery. Every autumn and winter, the leaves can be moderately pruned, and pits can be opened in the planting site and soil can be banked up, etc., to keep the nursery land dry. Usually, potassium fertilizer can be applied more, and quicklime, superphosphate, etc. can also be applied separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of plants.
2. Choose a good plot. Select loam or sandy loam land with high terrain and good drainage for planting.
3. Implement crop rotation. For land where Washingtonia palms have been planted, crop rotation of three to four years or more is required.
4. Strengthen field management, apply more organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Appropriately control watering during the rainy season, drain water promptly after rain, and ensure the ground dries after rain; water promptly during drought, and strictly prohibit flood irrigation when watering, and carry out watering on sunny afternoons or in the evening.
5. Achieve prevention first and integrated control. Observe carefully at ordinary times, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the diseased holes with lime.
II. Chemical control
One to two months before the onset of the disease in summer and during the onset period, use 64% Duofoshan wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminum (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as Kameitong, also known as tuJunxiao (usual dosage 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), dexon (500 times), etc. for control. Specific control methods: when transplanting Washingtonia palms, first spray the planting site and the roots of the Washingtonia palm with 600 to 700 times tuJunxiao solution, or first dig pits and expose them to the sun for sterilization on consecutive sunny days, or spread lime powder for disinfection, and dexon 500 times solution can also be used for soil disinfection.
After a typhoon, promptly spray Duofoshan (better) or fosetyl-aluminum (prone to developing resistance), add 0.4% washing powder and pour into the heart or spray for both prevention and treatment. 80% mancozeb 700 times solution can also be sprayed, once every 7 to 10 days, for two or three consecutive sprays, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora disease. After adopting this measure, the incidence rate of Washingtonia palms and Mexican fan palms at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company has dropped from 20% in 2004 to below 10%.
Control experience
The control effect of using carbendazim, etc. is not obvious. If at the early stage of the disease all leaves are cut off and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can gradually revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is poor.
It is understood that this disease rarely occurs in high-temperature and dry areas such as Los Angeles, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater, and rainwater, etc. When the plant's root system, trunk, leaves, etc. are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies in large numbers when water is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant wilts and dies from water loss. The heart rot disease introduced in some literature is actually also Phytophthora disease, only occurring in the heart leaf area.
This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, and at onset appears as small water-soaked spots, then expands into larger lesions, and is easy to find. It can generally be controlled with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, and common pathogens include Phyllosticta, Pestalotiopsis, etc., often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting techniques for large single-trunk seedlings
Preparation before transplanting
1. Root-prune the seedlings to be transplanted in advance. After root pruning, the soil ball size should be twice the ground diameter, and the root-pruning depth should be 50 cm to 60 cm. Stones and broken roots should be removed from the root-pruned soil and then backfilled promptly, and moisture should be maintained: the purpose is to train the adaptability of the seedlings and promote new root growth. After root pruning, it is best to keep them for more than 30 days and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If false-planted seedlings are used, the effect is even better.
2. Dig holes and prepare the soil. The planting site should have holes dug 20 days before transplanting, and the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. The soil from the holes should be exposed to the sun in the open air for a period. For backfill soil, it is best to use pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of matured phosphate fertilizer + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand: mud at 4:6.
Planting time
In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done throughout the year, with spring and autumn being the best. Try to avoid summer and winter, especially January and July. Most palm plants like warmth and moisture. In summer, temperatures are high and seedling moisture evaporates quickly, easily causing excessive water loss and affecting survival; in winter, temperatures are low, and some places even have frost, and strong north winds can easily cause frost injury or even death of seedlings.
Transplanting seedlings
Some large single-trunk palm seedlings have relatively thick trunks, and transplanting them involves a large workload, and the seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when transplanting, the trunk should be wrapped with gunny bags or rice straw, especially the green wrapped trunk part at the boundary between the trunk and the leaf sheaths. First, it protects the trunk; second, it maintains moisture and prevents sunburn. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with leaf pruning, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically depending on the tree vigor). At the same time, cut off 1/5 of the leaves together with the petioles, to minimize water evaporation as much as possible.
Planting
Seedlings are best dug and planted on the same day. If too much time passes, seedling moisture evaporates greatly, and water loss can easily affect survival. If they cannot all be planted on the same day, cover them well with shade netting and spray a small amount of water on the leaf surfaces every day, and do a good job of shading and moisture retention.
1. Backfilling soil. Once the seedling is positioned, backfill soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is completed, shape the soil mound into a "water storage basin" that is slightly higher around the edges and slightly lower in the middle, to facilitate watering and moisture retention.
2. Watering. Immediately after backfilling, water thoroughly to settle the roots. Before watering, first use bamboo poles, etc. to poke and firm the loose soil around the soil ball until the loose soil no longer sinks.
3. Fixing. There are many kinds of supports. Using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. The tying height should be at 2/3 of the trunk.
Post-planting management
1. Moisture retention. Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, to the extent that the leaves and trunk wrapping are moistened. Do not water the roots, because excess water will flow downward and accumulate, causing root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with rice straw to prevent sunburn, prevent excessive soil temperature differences from causing soil compaction, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist, and aerated, which is beneficial for new root sprouting.
2. Wind protection. Because transplanted large single-trunk palm plants are generally taller and are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds after transplanting, the supports should be checked regularly after planting to see whether they have loosened. Especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, it should be promptly straightened and tied.
3. Topdressing. About one month after planting, urea water can be used for foliar topdressing by spraying, with topdressing about once every half month. After the first new leaf grows and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. Dig the holes by opening a ring-shaped trench outside the edge of the soil ball. The width and depth of the trench are each 30 cm, and the fertilizer and backfill soil should be mixed evenly.
4. Pest and disease control. Newly transplanted large single-trunk palm seedlings are relatively weak in tree vigor and are extremely susceptible to pests and diseases, especially young leaves and heart leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" is causing quite serious harm to palm plants. Adults and larvae gather in the overlapping spaces of the not-yet-unfolded heart leaves and gnaw the leaf flesh, causing part or all of the newly emerged leaves to wither and die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. The control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsion 1000 times solution; ② cypermethrin 500 times solution; ③ use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve very good control effects. Based on practical operation, the author believes that the simplest, most convenient, and long-lasting method is to hang a packet of "Yejiaqing" on the heart leaves during planting in combination with tying for control.
For large single-trunk palm seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether the leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, it is generally necessary to wait until after one growing season and use whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author adopted the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to more than 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and necessary to be promoted and applied.
Transplanting techniques for seedlings, large trees, and clustered seedlings
Key techniques for transplanting seedlings
Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting during a period after they germinate and take root. At this time, the seedlings are relatively small and can be transplanted with seeds, and because there are few fibrous roots, the root system is not easily damaged during transplanting. When using nutritional bags for seedling cultivation, the size depends on the cultivation time of the seedlings. Generally speaking, for 1-year-old seedlings, containers of 16 cm x 18 cm are suitable, and for 2-year-old seedlings, 19 cm x 20 cm. Nutritional bags that are too small are not conducive to rapid seedling growth. The nutritional soil is prepared with loose topsoil, burnt soil, and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a ratio of 5:2:1 with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, and then put into bags. First fill half the bag with mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling and fill it full and compact it, so that the seedling root system is closely attached to the mixed soil, and then water thoroughly. Palm plants cannot be planted too deep, otherwise it will affect seedling growth. If too deep, lift the seedling upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.
Key techniques for transplanting large trees
Palm plants cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years mostly need to be transplanted between beds several times, so selecting strong seedlings from sparse planting results in a higher survival rate.
Reduce damage to the root mass. Palm plant root tissues are tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots. When digging, bring as large a soil ball as possible, and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize damage to the root mass as much as possible, so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve the transplanting survival rate. During construction, lines should be set and holes positioned accurately to avoid rework and prevent the soil ball from loosening.
Leaf pruning. The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at the time of transplanting, and transplanting and maintenance conditions.
Generally, about 40% of the original number of leaves should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause the leaves to turn yellow due to high water evaporation; retaining too few leaves makes plant recovery difficult and the cycle long, and the initial landscape effect is also poor.
Protect the plant's trunk and its false trunk. During the process of digging, carrying, loading, and unloading the plant, the trunk should be protected from damage, and the false trunk part should not be squeezed or bent. This is the guarantee of plant health and rapid recovery.
Soil at the new planting site. Palm plants suffer damage to root tips during transplanting, and it is difficult for new root tips to sprout within one month after transplanting, so water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, if the soil has good water permeability and air permeability, it is beneficial to seedling survival. Therefore, when planting, large holes should be dug and attention should be paid to the quality of introduced soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer to facilitate post-planting recovery of palms.
Maintenance. Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, and the seedlings should be carefully maintained. Be sure to replenish water promptly and provide appropriate shading, and strive to have new leaves sprout within three months. If there are several consecutive days of cloudy and rainy weather after transplanting, palm seedlings will recover better, because cloudy and rainy days can avoid the effects of unfavorable factors such as scorching sun exposure.
Key techniques for transplanting large clustered seedlings
Clustered palm species have multiple growth points, and after growing into a multi-trunk clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have disadvantages such as heavy trunks, large leaf area causing high water evaporation, and poor ventilation making them susceptible to strong wind damage. Therefore, in addition to handling them according to single-trunk palm transplanting, the following technical measures should be added:
1. Implement "hairy root method" transplanting, that is, after digging a relatively large soil ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the soil ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate soil ball, and immediately wrap the outside with lightweight moisture-retaining material, so as to reduce the weight of the soil ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting clustered palms that recover relatively slowly, such as fishtail palm and three-stamen areca.
2. Implement bare-root false planting or potting and concentrated maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant stabilizes before formal planting. This method is suitable for hardy clustered palms such as areca palm, Ptychosperma elegans, and Chamaedorea seifrizii, and can reduce freight and facilitate construction.
In short, for the transplanting of large palm seedlings and large trees, in brief, five aspects should be done well, namely: select strong seedlings; dig good soil balls and transport them carefully; prune leaves moderately; ensure ventilation and drainage at the planting site; and do a good job of post-planting maintenance, sun protection, and moisture retention. The sign of successful transplanting of large seedlings and large trees is being able to retain most leaves and sprout new leaves within half a year after planting, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves is complete transplanting success.
Drainage: first understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, and try to place the very bottom of the soil ball at a position above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site by 100-150CM and with deep fertile soil. At the same time, a drainage layer for the root system of the underground soil ball and a surface runoff guidance network should be well established to prevent water accumulation in the soil ball after planting; if the hydrological conditions cannot meet the requirements, the method of planting with a raised soil ball can be adopted, that is, first pile up the planting site with loose medium mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand, try to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the soil pile, and fill and bury the soil ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose medium, so as to achieve the condition of making the plant roots loose and breathable; strengthen inspections during the rainy season, promptly dredge drainage facilities, and appropriately loosen the soil at the roots, so as to prevent waterlogging and drain accumulated water. Moisture retention: immediately after planting, water once to settle the roots, ensuring that the roots of the soil ball are moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development. Next, water thoroughly three more times and promptly cover the soil ball well to prevent the surface soil from cracking. In hot summer, spray more water on the ground and tree crown to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf moisture retention treatments include a. newly planted seedlings should have their leaves appropriately pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit the plant's physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss; c. under sunny weather conditions, spray atomized water on the leaves as much as possible to strengthen the leaves' absorption of water and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the soil ball and roots at any time and replenish water promptly to ensure the moisture of the soil ball and the permeability of root respiration. Fertilization: in addition to maintaining moisture for the plant after planting, appropriately spray low-concentration foliar fertilizer to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant. If new roots are found growing, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing the season when the monthly average temperature is higher than 20°C, applying organic fertilizer as the main type as much as possible, and appropriately adding compound fertilizer with high P and K content, so as to promote balanced plant nutrition and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: spray chemicals to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery, and after arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed with chemicals for pest and disease control before unloading, and ensure three consecutive chemical applications at intervals of one week to ten days within one month after planting, and then reasonably formulate a pest and disease control plan. Special
Part Nine: "Maintenance Plan"
Sutarion (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Greening
Main
ten
ance
Plan
Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.
October 8, 2010
Project overview
"Sutarion (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green space area of 28,186 sq m. The greening plant configuration in the factory area is relatively reasonable, rich in color, and has obvious seasonal changes, forming a plant community with distinct layers and natural ecology, basically displaying the natural landscape of plants. The arrangement of plant flowering shrubs and hedges between the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant varieties such as camphor, Magnolia grandiflora, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle have been planted in the factory area, including a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification camphor trees, and a guardhouse scenic spot composed of ancient red maple, pomegranate, Malus spectabilis, ginkgo, and Canary Island date palm.
In view of the existing situation of the factory greening landscape, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, and the understanding of plant habits was insufficient. In particular, the replacement of planting soil in the greening land was not in place, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.
Greening maintenance plan schedule
January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)
1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.
2. Often check cold-protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold-protection wrappings.
3. Turn the soil for winter plowing and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.
4. Cut off dead, residual, diseased, and pest-infested branches and leaves, thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm bags, slug moth cocoons, and latent overwintering pests.
February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)
1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.
2. Continue cutting off diseased and pest-infested branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, giant mealybug, etc.).
3. Continue accumulating fertilizer and making compost, prepare culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)
The weather gradually warms, and many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insecticidal and disease-prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and giant mealybugs, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)
1. Do a good job in the control of pests such as scale insects, mites, cutworms, white grubs, and mole crickets, as well as powdery mildew and rust.
2. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilization. Apply light fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.
3. Do a good job in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess young buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.
4. Dredge and repair the drainage system.
May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)
1. Carry out post-flowering pruning and hedge pruning for shrubs that bloom in spring. According to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning of trees, and prune and remove root sprouts of small seedlings at any time.
2. Continue to strengthen tree maintenance and management, do a good job in replanting, thinning, and final spacing of seedlings, apply more topdressing, and apply light fertilizer frequently.
3. This month the temperature gradually rises, and pests and diseases greatly harm trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to forecasting and reporting pest conditions and doing a good job in pest and disease prevention.
4. Carry out lawn rolling and mowing, and continue removing weeds from the lawn.
June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)
1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperature and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.
2. Carry out post-flowering pruning and fertilization for flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.
3. Continue removing weeds and continue rolling and mowing.
4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, slug moths, tussock moths, inchworms, and tortoise wax scales, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.
July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)
1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly, so continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.
2. Pests such as bagworms, slug moths, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scales, armored scales, second-generation cottony cushion scale, and mites occur in large numbers, and attention should be paid to their control. At the same time, continue to control anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, etc.
3. During the dog days, temperatures are high. When there is little rain, irrigation is needed to resist drought. This month is also a month with more rainstorms, so attention should be paid to preventing waterlogging.
4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season, so typhoon and flood prevention work should be done well, inspections should be frequent, and wind-toppled trees should be promptly straightened.
August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)
1. Continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.
2. Continue doing a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure normal seedling growth.
3. This month the seedlings grow vigorously, so topdressing should be applied promptly, and for small seedlings, light fertilizer should be applied frequently.
4. Continue doing a good job in typhoon and flood prevention, and promptly straighten wind-toppled trees when found.
5. Continue doing a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously control the main pests harming trees (bagworms, second-generation slug moths, longhorn beetles, mites, etc.) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, etc.).
September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)
1. Continue to do a good job in pest elimination and disease control; in particular, often check the occurrence of aphids, wood moths, etc., and once found, control them immediately.
2. Continue intertillage and weeding, continue removing lawn weeds, carry out lawn rolling and mowing, and carry out shaping and pruning of topiary balls, hedges, etc.
3. Continue to do a good job in pest and disease control. In particular, check the pest and disease conditions of relatively common aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease, and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, and control them promptly.
October (Cold Dew, Frost's Descent)
1. Do a good job in pest and disease control, and eliminate various adults and eggs.
2. Continue intertillage and weeding.
3. After seedlings stop growing, check the survival rate, get a clear picture of the situation, and ensure the smooth progress of winter and spring greening work.
November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)
1. Do a good job in cold protection, whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.
2. Carry out winter tree pruning, cutting off diseased branches and dead branches; egg-bearing branches, competing branches, and excessive