How to repot firethorn (Pyracantha): repotting methods and precautions for firethorn bonsai / pruning excess roots

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Firethorn is a highly ornamental flowering plant, and people in many regions of China grow it. However, there are many things to pay attention to if you want to grow firethorn well, and regular repotting is one of the more important points. So how do you repot firethorn? What are the benefits of firethorn bonsai? Below, the editor takes you through it.

I. How to repot firethorn

II. Repotting methods for firethorn bonsai

1. Repotting time

When it comes to the repotting time for firethorn, we need to decide based on its pot. If the firethorn bonsai has a relatively large plant form and the pot is relatively deep, we can choose to repot about once every 2 years; if the plant form is smaller and the pot is relatively shallow, then we need to repot once a year. The repotting time is generally best chosen between February and April.

2. Pot and soil selection

Before repotting firethorn, we first need to choose a pot of appropriate size. As for the pot material, ceramic pots, clay pots or plastic pots are all fine. As for the soil, we can choose relatively fertile humus soil, as this kind of soil has better drainage and can let firethorn grow better.

3. Repotting method

When repotting, first take the firethorn out of the old pot together with the soil, then remove the old soil and prune the old roots a little. After that, spread out the firethorn's root system and place it into the new pot soil, then fill soil on top and press it firm, and then you can water. Remember to water thoroughly, and after that keep it in a shady place for about 10 days before moving it into the sun for normal care.

II. Precautions for repotting firethorn bonsai

When repotting firethorn bonsai, note that the soil cannot be removed completely; a portion of soil should be kept around its roots. When pruning the root system, remember never to prune the main root; just trim the excess roots. After repotting is successful, note that you should not move the pot frequently, so as not to affect the plant's growth.

Summary: After reading the above, I believe everyone has a certain understanding of how to repot firethorn. As long as everyone repots according to the above methods, the operation will go much more smoothly. That is all from the editor on the repotting methods and precautions for firethorn bonsai. I hope it can be of some help to everyone.

How to grow firethorn bonsai? Firethorn bonsai care

Firethorn, also known as firestick fruit, life-saving grain, Chiyangzi, Doujin Niang, and Shuicuozi, belongs to the genus Pyracantha in the rose family (Rosaceae). The plant is one to three meters tall, with obovate, bright green leaves, compound corymbose inflorescences, and white flowers. The fruit is round, and the ripe fruit is bright red, not withering after frost, with red fruits hanging on the branches until the following spring before they drop.

In summer, with the blazing sun, snow-white flowers bloom in full glory. In a courtyard or room, firethorn flowers as white as snow and jade add a touch of coolness.

In winter, with snow everywhere, firethorn has green branches and leaves, and fruits red as fire, warm and lovely.

The roots, trunk, branches, flowers and fruits of firethorn all have extremely high ornamental value. It is an excellent plant for viewing flowers in spring and fruits in winter.

Firethorn is distributed in Shaanxi, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, Hubei, Hunan, Guangxi, Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou and other provinces and regions of China. The genus has 10 species, 7 of which are native to China, and many excellent cultivated varieties have been bred abroad.

Production and cultivation methods for firethorn bonsai:

I. Seedling sources.

Seedling sources for firethorn bonsai can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. For sowing, you can sow in early spring after promoting germination. For cuttings, in February to March of spring, choose robust one- or two-year-old branches and cut them into 10-15 cm long sections as cuttings, inserting them as you cut. You can also do softwood cuttings during the plum rain season, which makes it easier to survive. Seedlings generally need 3-4 years before they can bear fruit. In order to make them bear fruit and take shape as quickly as possible, you can use hard branches with fruit for cuttings; fruiting cuttings are usually done in summer. Use vermiculite, sand or sawdust as the substrate, and disinfect before inserting.

II. Shaping.

Firethorn bonsai should adopt the shaping method of coarse wiring and fine pruning, generally carried out in autumn. First use iron wire or palm fiber to coarsely wire the trunk into different forms such as slanting trunk or lying trunk. After cultivating for a period, then prune and shape the layers of the bonsai according to the design, so that the whole tree form has clear layers and spirit.

Firethorn is very particular about its pot. To set off its red fruits, generally white, light blue, light green or pale yellow and other light-colored, cool-colored bonsai pots are used as matching pots.

III. Care.

Firethorn likes moisture and fertilizer, and likes a climate environment with ample light, good ventilation, and warmth and humidity. Firethorn tolerates barren soil, and the temperature can drop to 0°C-5°C or lower. Firethorn has a well-developed root system, sprouts branches quickly, grows rapidly, tolerates pruning, and tolerates wiring.

For the soil of firethorn bonsai, relatively fertile garden soil or surface soil from mountain forests is best; decomposed base fertilizer, fine sand, and potting soil can also be used.

Firethorn is best repotted once a year. Choose late autumn or early spring for repotting, that is, after new shoots stop growing or before new shoots begin to grow. For firethorn that has not yet borne fruit, the pot and soil can be changed all year round. No matter when you change the soil, you must keep some of the old soil, cut off long roots, and avoid root balling; the speed of potting must be fast so as not to affect growth.

Firethorn bonsai is especially afraid of drying out and is susceptible to pests and diseases. Diseases mainly come from external invasion or the pot soil, mainly fungal infection, black rot and powdery mildew, with powdery mildew being especially severe.

Control methods are mainly fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl, mainly spraying the branches and leaves and drenching the roots. Usually place it in a ventilated and clean environment with ample light; vigorous growth can reduce the incidence of disease.

The most common pest of firethorn is aphids. The control method is to promptly spray trichlorfon, emulsified dimethoate, etc. Generally spray in the afternoon, at least once every three days; more than three times can cure it completely, and you can also spray whenever you find them.

Cultivation and management of firethorn bonsai

Firethorn belongs to the genus Pyracantha in the rose family (Rosaceae). It is an evergreen shrub with thorny branches, alternate simple leaves, small white flowers, and red or yellow fruits. It is distributed in the Yangtze River basin and the provinces to its south. Because firethorn tolerates barren soil, tolerates pruning, is easy to keep alive, takes shape quickly, stays evergreen all year round, and holds fruit for a long time, it is loved by bonsai enthusiasts and viewers.

I. Collection and digging

There are generally three sources of raw material for firethorn bonsai, namely sowing, cuttings, and digging from the wild. Raw material from sowing and cuttings takes shape relatively slowly, so preparations must be made early. Old specimens dug from the wild are simple and ancient, gnarled and twisted, natural, and take shape quickly. Here we only discuss the method of making bonsai from old specimens dug from the wild. Firethorn can be dug at any time of the year, but spring is best. When digging, choose raw material that is short and sturdy, with many bends and variations, good branching, naturally tapered tips after being cut by people or trampled by livestock, and beautiful root claws. Old specimens with grayish-white bark that are not vigorous are not easy to keep alive; try not to dig them. When digging, keep many fibrous roots; vigorous raw material can survive even without soil. The roots and branches of the raw specimen should be left with an extra section on the mountain to prevent injuring the cut surface during transport, and then cut to the proper length before planting. Raw specimens dug in dry weather should be kept moist; raw specimens without soil can also be soaked in clean water for a few hours before planting.

II. Growing the raw specimen

Before planting, large cuts on the roots and branches of the raw specimen should be coated with clean yellow mud mixed with auxin. After coating the cuts at the branch tips, wrap them with black plastic film to promote wound healing, prevent moisture evaporation, and prevent cracking when exposed to the sun later. When planting, use slightly acidic, loose, breathable leaf mold or garden soil. Clay pots, purple clay pots or cement pots can all be used; choose a pot that is appropriately larger and deeper, and after it takes shape, transplant it into a suitable ornamental pot. After planting, water thoroughly once to set the roots. Those dug in summer should be kept in a shady place for care; those dug in spring, autumn and winter should be kept in a wind-sheltered, sunny place for care. Cover the specimen together with the pot with a transparent plastic bag to keep moisture. Check the pot soil at intervals to ensure the pot soil is moist. On sunny days when the temperature inside the bag is relatively high, shade and cool it appropriately to prevent burning the new buds. When the new buds have grown to more than one cun and new buds have sprouted in all the places where new branches are needed, choose a time with several consecutive days of overcast rain, uncover the plastic bag to harden the seedlings. If dry sunny days occur, shade it and spray water on the specimen head to keep it moist, to prevent bud shrinkage. After the new specimen survives, do not rush to remove buds; more new buds means more water evaporation, which can promote rooting of the raw specimen. Wait until after autumn when the new specimen has completely survived, then remove the excess buds.

III. Pruning and wiring

For firethorn, pruning and wiring in the first two years is mainly wiring, and after it takes shape, mainly pruning. Do not prune the new branches of a new specimen in the same year. For particularly vigorous branches, to prevent them from breaking during later wiring, they can be bent according to the shaping requirements. When pruning the next year, first wire the branch tips according to the shaping requirements and then prune. Branches that need to thicken and lengthen are bent and not pruned, then left to grow for another year. One point to note when keeping branches on a new specimen is that branches with relatively large cuts must not have new branches on only one side, to prevent the large branch from gradually dying and causing branch shrinkage because one side has no branches. The shaping of firethorn should consider the characteristics of the raw specimen and the traits of firethorn. Branches must not be kept too dense; too dense blocks light and air. Firethorn takes shape quickly; generally 3-4 years is enough for basic shaping. Firethorn grows new branches in spring, summer and autumn. In order to keep the bonsai's crown spread basically unchanged, it must be pruned and its buds pinched frequently. When pruning fruitless plants in autumn, cut off vigorous water sprouts, weak branches and overly dense branches, keep the branch tips that can flower and bear fruit, and ensure that fruiting branches can receive ample light. The tree shape after late-autumn pruning is the tree shape that will bear fruit the next year, because as soon as new branches grow the next year, they bloom and bear fruit. If you do not prune in autumn, the next year's flowers will bloom on the front branch tips, and pruning again would cut off the fruiting branches. New branches that grow after the branch tips bear fruit can be cut off at any time to keep the plant's crown spread unchanged, and the fruits will all be on the outer layer of the crown spread. After the fruits turn red, the ornamental effect is at its best.

IV. Care

How can firethorn have green leaves and beautiful fruits with a good ornamental effect? Grasping firethorn's growth characteristics and caring for it scientifically and carefully is very important.

1. Light: Firethorn is a sun-loving tree species. Whether a firethorn bonsai can be grown well is directly related to the length of time it receives light. Therefore, the plant should be kept in a full-sun position all year round for care, especially in autumn, when light must be ample so that the plant becomes sturdy and forms flower buds. The care location must not be too damp; a rooftop is a good place for caring for firethorn bonsai.

2. Thinning flowers and fruits: When a plant that has not yet taken shape blooms, thin out the flower buds and do not let it bear fruit; after bearing fruit, the plant's growth slows down, which will prolong the time for the plant to take shape. When firethorn blooms, prevent attacks by strong wind and torrential rain; after the flower buds are damaged, the number of fruits set will decrease. If not affected by external factors, generally as many flowers as bloom, so many fruits set. If too many fruits are set, thin out some of the fruits appropriately to ensure the plant is sturdy and the needed fruits are plump and large.

3. Changing soil: Firethorn grows fast, consumes a lot of water after bearing fruit, and is cared for in a place with long light hours, so its fibrous roots grow very fast, and the nutrients in the pot soil are consumed quickly too. If the soil is not changed for a long time, the fibrous roots fill the pot, and the nutrients in the pot soil are used up or become one-sided, causing poor plant growth. The solution is to change the soil twice in 1-2 years depending on the amount of pot soil and the plant's growth. Choose late spring to early autumn for changing the soil; too early will affect flowering and fruiting, and too late means the plant cannot grow many new roots before winter, which will also affect flowering. When changing the soil, the pot soil should not be too wet. After taking out the plant, cut off the fibrous roots and rotten roots near the pot rim and pot bottom, remove two-thirds of the old soil, and replace it with loose, breathable, fertile leaf mold or garden soil, then water thoroughly once.

4. Fertilizing: Firethorn blooms a lot, holds fruit for a long time, and bears relatively many fruits, so nutrients are consumed quickly. Starting from spring budding, fertilize once every 15-30 days. In autumn the fruits gradually ripen and the fertilizer requirement increases. Fruitless plants also need increased fertilizer to lay the foundation for fruiting the next year, so the fertilizing frequency in autumn should be appropriately increased, applying once every 10-20 days. After autumn, as long as the plant has not stopped growing, fertilize appropriately. Fertilizer should mainly be organic fertilizer rich in phosphorus and potassium, with less inorganic fertilizer.

5. Watering: Firethorn tolerates drought but not moisture. When watering, basically follow the method of not watering until dry, and watering thoroughly when you do. Newly repotted plants have few fibrous roots, so the pot soil must be kept moist and not too dry. In summer and autumn, water according to the plant's fruiting situation; those with many fruits must not be too dry, as too dry easily causes fruit drop, but also see dry and see wet. Fruitless plants can be a bit drier, but do not let the tender branches wilt; too dry will cause a large amount of leaf drop, leading to a poor ornamental effect.

6. Pest and disease control: Pests harmful to firethorn include scale insects, aphids, etc., and diseases include powdery mildew, sooty mold, etc. For scale insects, bury carbofuran into the pot soil for control. For aphids, spray with 40% omethoate at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For powdery mildew and sooty mold, use Bordeaux mixture or carbendazim for control.

Quick production of miniature firethorn bonsai

In early summer the white flowers are dense, and in autumn the fruits are red as fire, dazzling to the eye. It is a famous fruit-viewing tree and also a good material for making bonsai. Generally, making large firethorn bonsai takes a long time and takes shape slowly, costing time and labor. But using fruiting firethorn branches for cuttings to make miniature bonsai saves a great deal of manpower and material resources, and the time is short, requiring only three or four months, with quick results and relatively high economic benefits. The key to the process lies in the cutting propagation of fruiting firethorn branches. The specific operation method is as follows:

I. Mother plant selection. After selecting a good mother plant, do not prune it in winter each year, strengthen care and management, and promote lush growth with abundant flowers and dense fruits.

II. Cutting time. In June and July, firethorn fruits have already formed. Cutting at this time, with high temperature and high humidity, is easy to manage and easy to root.

III. Cutting selection and cutting. Cut the cuttings according to the shape of the small or miniature bonsai to be made. If making a single-trunk or double-trunk style, use robust two-year-old branches with branching; for a forest style, you can use soft branches of the current year for cuttings; both need to bear fruit. The cuttings vary in length from 5-15 cm. Cut off 1/3-1/2 of the leaves at the lower part of the branch, and keep all the upper leaves.

IV. Seedbed preparation. Because two-year-old branches root relatively difficultly, they should as far as possible be inserted into a cutting bed with full-sun automatic misting equipment. Because soft branches grow vigorously and have strong healing ability, they root quickly, so the cutting bed is relatively simple; rice-hull ash, clean river sand or potting soil can all be used.

V. Cutting method. First make holes with a bamboo strip slightly thicker than the cutting to prevent damage to the cortex at the base of the cutting. When inserting, it is appropriate to insert 1/3-1/2 of the cutting's length into the soil, then press it slightly firm and water thoroughly once.

VI. Post-cutting management. Because the temperature is relatively high and light is ample in June and July, shade should be set up at the beginning, and attention should be paid to watering and spraying water on the leaves to increase the humidity of the cutting substrate and the air. The Nanjing area is in the plum rain season, with a long rainy period and excessive rainfall, so plastic film must be added over the cutting bed to prevent excessive rain from causing the base of the cuttings to rot. After about half a month, the bamboo curtain can be removed to receive morning and evening sunlight; at noon it still needs to be covered. After about 40-50 days, the cuttings root, and when the roots are 2-4 cm long, apply a light liquid fertilizer once every ten days. During this period the cuttings send out new shoots, and you should keep pinching the growing tips and breaking off the tips. In early October they can be planted into pots for tying, pruning, and shaping according to your own requirements. In late October the fruits begin to turn red until they ripen. In this way, a small and exquisite miniature firethorn bonsai with red fruits and green leaves is successfully made. Placed on the palm, on a desk, or on a stand, it is quite distinctive and truly lovely.

How firethorn bonsai can safely overwinter

Firethorn likes light and adapts to heavy fertilizer and heavy water, but dislikes waterlogging. It can overwinter in the open ground under temperate and subtropical climate conditions. However, its root system can only withstand low temperatures (below 0°C) for a short time, so in winter plant death due to frozen roots easily occurs. The damage from freezing is not obvious at the time; after spring begins, new buds wither and branches shrink, ultimately leading to death.

In winter, because the plant's growth is in a dormant state, water transpiration is greatly reduced. If watered too much, a large amount of water accumulates in the pot. As the temperature changes, it easily causes freezing in the pot and kills the plant. Therefore, you should choose acidic sandy soil with good water permeability and air permeability, and control the amount of watering, so that firethorn can safely overwinter.

In winter, never place firethorn bonsai in a heated room, because under such temperature conditions the plant will sprout early and consume nutrients, leaving the plant without sufficient nutrients to safely overwinter.

If using a shallow pot, considering overwintering, you can use the method of a large pot enclosing a small pot (shallow pot), filling insulation material or soil between the two pots to keep the temperature in the small pot.

In addition, during the autumn growth period, strengthen water and fertilizer management, increase the plant's nutrient reserves, make its vitality more vigorous, and improve its cold resistance.

Key points for cultivating firethorn bonsai

Firethorn bonsai is evergreen all year round, with a compact plant form and luxuriant branches and leaves. It can be viewed for its leaves and flowers as well as its fruits, so it is deeply favored by bonsai enthusiasts. To cultivate firethorn bonsai well, you must grasp the following key elements.

First, you must understand firethorn's physiological characteristics and growing conditions. Firethorn likes moisture and fertilizer, likes ample light, and likes a climate environment with good ventilation, warmth and humidity. It has a well-developed root system, likes heavy fertilizer and heavy water, sprouts branches quickly, grows rapidly, tolerates pruning, and tolerates wiring. It has abundant flowers and many fruits. The fruits are first green, then yellow, and red when ripe. The whole red fruit can almost cover all the leaves, and it does not drop throughout winter and spring, with a fruit-viewing period as long as half a year. Therefore, you need to ensure appropriate water and fertilizer, alternating dry and wet, ample sunlight, and good ventilation, so that firethorn bonsai can grow normally.

Second, the seasonal management of cultivating firethorn bonsai. After winter dormancy, firethorn plants, because of characteristics such as bearing many fruits, having a long fruiting period, and sprouting early, need timely fruit picking and fertilizer supplementation. Picking fruits is a necessary condition for abundant flowers and many fruits the next year. If the fruits are left on the plant, they can even remain until May or June of the year after fruiting without dropping, which both consumes a large amount of the plant's own nutrients and is even more unfavorable for flowering and fruit setting that year. And timely nutrient supplementation is another condition for sturdy spring buds and vigorous growth.

Generally, in summer, apply fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium in a timely manner. Better wet than dry. Even if it dries out once, the branches and leaves lose water severely, which can cause the plant to die and all previous efforts to be wasted. In autumn, continue applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to promote fruit ripening and coloring. In winter it can be viewed indoors; it requires ventilation, the temperature must not be too [high or low]? The temperature must not be too high, and sunlight should be ample, otherwise it will drop leaves, send out winter buds, or die from excessive water loss. When fertilizing, it is best to apply solid fertilizer on the pot surface. If overwintering outdoors, avoid dry wind attacks that cause damage. As long as the pot soil is properly dry and wet, a low temperature of around -10°C will not cause damage.

Third, maintaining the form of firethorn bonsai. For a finished firethorn bonsai, spring is the beginning of another growth cycle, and letting it grow wildly is very necessary. Only with luxuriant branches and leaves in spring will it better carry out photosynthesis, better promote root growth and development, so as to absorb nutrients, promote growth and metabolism, and thus make the whole plant vigorous and full of life.

Otherwise the plant will suffer severe malnutrition, have poor resistance, age severely, and even die. From late spring to early summer and even autumn, focus on pruning and pinching tips. Pruning and pinching tips mainly maintain the original plant form, and individually you can add your own creativity. Autumn is another growth peak; do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, and for pinching tips it is better to remove the apical dominance. Avoid autumn shoots consuming nutrients and bringing disadvantages to overwintering and fruit setting.

Fourth, repotting firethorn bonsai. If you want to grow it well, the fertilizer must be good. Pot soil is the medium on which firethorn bonsai depends for survival and nutrient absorption. It must be fertile, slightly acidic, and relatively loose. For soil, disinfected, pest-free and relatively fertile garden soil or surface soil from mountain forests is best, and decomposed base fertilizer, fine sand, and potting soil can be added. The pot soil can be used continuously for one to two years.

It is best to repot once a year or even twice. It is best to choose late autumn or early spring, that is, after new shoots stop growing or before new shoots begin to grow. For vegetative-growing plants that have not borne fruit, the pot and soil can be changed all year round. No matter when you change the soil, you must keep some of the old soil, cut off long roots, and avoid root balling; pot it as soon as it is taken out, and the speed must be fast so as not to affect plant growth. Under shade and greenhouse conditions, repotting can be done all year round; under natural conditions, the dormant period is best.

Fifth, pest and disease control. Although firethorn bonsai has many advantages, it also has quite a few disadvantages. Being afraid of drying out is one of its typical disadvantages. Next is susceptibility to pests and diseases. Diseases mainly come from external invasion or the pot soil, mainly fungal infection, black rot and powdery mildew, with powdery mildew being especially severe. Control is mainly with fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl, mainly spraying the branches and leaves or drenching the roots.

Usually place it in a ventilated and clean environment with ample light; vigorous growth can greatly reduce the incidence of disease. The most common pest is aphids. You can promptly spray trichlorfon, emulsified dimethoate, etc. Generally spray in the afternoon, at least once every three days; more than three times can cure it completely; you can also spray whenever you find them. The effects are all good.

Making firethorn bonsai bloom abundantly and bear abundant fruit

Firethorn is an excellent tree species for making bonsai, and the ornamental value of its roots, trunk, branches, leaves, flowers and fruits is all very high. How can firethorn bonsai achieve abundant flowers and abundant fruit? After nearly 20 years of practice in cultivating and making them, I have a few personal experiences, and now I will exchange and discuss them with fellow bonsai enthusiasts.

I. Sunlight. Firethorn likes a warm and humid climate and an environment with ample sunlight. Placing it in a wind-sheltered, sunny place allows extensive management. There is no need to shade it even in the hot summer, and it will still grow well in severe cold winter. But in order to achieve the goal of more flowers and more fruits, spring, summer and autumn must have direct light conditions, and no less than 4 to 5 hours of exposure per day.

II. Soil. Firethorn grows rapidly, has strong sprouting ability, and has many and dense roots. Although it can adapt to barren soil, it prefers fertile soil with good fertility. The most suitable is breathable, slightly acidic sandy soil or leaf mold plus vegetable garden soil, etc. Generally, replacing two-thirds of the old soil of the bonsai once a year is enough.

III. Watering. Firethorn bonsai requires even more attention during the flowering and fruit-setting periods. Try to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. In autumn and winter, it can be appropriately drier. If the bonsai is waterlogged, it will cause root rot, leaf drop, and even death. In short, being careful and attentive is beneficial; the principle is the old saying, do not water until dry, and water thoroughly when you do.

IV. Fertilizing. Firethorn likes fertilizer. During the periods of budding, blooming and fruit forming in spring, summer and autumn, water and fertilizer must be guaranteed. From March to May, during the bonsai's shoot-sprouting and flowering period, apply liquid fertilizer with relatively high nitrogen and phosphorus content 1 to 2 times a month; cake fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc. are most suitable. It can promote the sprouting and sturdy growth of branches and buds, and can also make the branches bloom more and set more fruit. After the plant bears fruit, you can stop using nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer, and apply monopotassium phosphate liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times a month, continuing until September. If applying organic fertilizer, it must be strictly fermented before use, and the amount should also be determined according to the size of the bonsai. In short, apply frequently and in small amounts.

V. Pests and diseases. The main pests of firethorn bonsai are aphids and red spider mites, which may occur in spring and autumn. Spraying omethoate diluted 1000 times once every 7 days can kill them. If powdery mildew, leaf blight, sooty mold, etc. occur, spray carbendazim solution at 500 to 1000 times dilution.

VI. Pruning. Whether firethorn bonsai can achieve the ultimate goal of abundant flowers and abundant fruit, the most critical step is doing the pruning work well. First, pruning maintains the tree's posture, cutting back water sprouts and clearing useless branches, etc., to facilitate sufficient ventilation and light for the branch layers. Second, it benefits more flowering and normal fruit growth. The flower bud differentiation period of firethorn is on the fruiting branches that grow in October to November of the previous year, so when pruning in autumn each year, you must keep the short branches grown that year and cut off excess vegetative branches. This kind of pruning can both take into account keeping the bonsai's branch layers and crown spread unchanged, and also let the next year's profuse flowers drift like patches of white clouds on the outer layer of the green leaves; after the fruits ripen in golden autumn, it is even more bustling and lively, full of a festive atmosphere.

How to repot firethorn

The time to repot firethorn

The time to repot firethorn must be decided based on the pot. If it is a relatively large firethorn bonsai, the pot will be relatively large and relatively deep, so repotting is generally done about once every two years. If it is a relatively small firethorn bonsai, with a small and shallow pot, it needs to be repotted once a year.

For repotting firethorn, the time is generally from late February to before Qingming.

The method of repotting firethorn

To repot firethorn, you can choose a pot with a relatively suitable size and diameter, and the material can be a clay pot, ceramic pot, or plastic pot. As for the soil, you can prepare nutrient soil yourself, mixing garden soil and sand with a little compound fertilizer to make a substrate. When potting, besides putting in the substrate, you can also add broken tile pieces at the bottom of the pot.

Take out the firethorn plant, remove the old roots and old soil, and then pot it. When potting, place a few pieces of broken tile at the bottom of the pot, spread a layer of coarse sand, and put in the prepared substrate. Spread out the firethorn's root system, place it in the soil, fill in soil, and note that the soil should be even and pressed firm, and do not fill it too full.

After firethorn is repotted, first water thoroughly, place it in a shady place for care for about 10 days, and after that it can be managed normally.

Precautions for repotting firethorn

When repotting firethorn, note that the soil cannot be removed completely; a portion of soil should be kept around the roots. If the root system needs pruning, note not to prune the main root; you can trim the excess roots, and you can also cut off old leaves and relatively weak branches.

After repotting firethorn, note that you should not move the pot frequently, so as not to affect the plant's growth. After a period of care, if the pot soil sinks, you can add some more soil.