How to grow a rubber plant fast? Master the environment and four-season management methods
Although the rubber plant is relatively easy to grow, different cultivation methods will make it grow at different speeds. Some flower enthusiasts grow vigorous rubber plants, while others grow relatively slowly. Exactly how do you grow a rubber plant fast? This is a question many flower enthusiasts are pondering. Below, the editor will tell you the answer.
How to grow a rubber plant fast
To make a rubber plant grow fast, you need to start from two aspects: the environment and the methods. The environment includes temperature, light, soil, humidity and ventilation; the methods refer to how we water, fertilize and propagate. Because the climate differs from season to season, the environment and methods are constantly changing. So we will introduce them in detail according to the management methods for the four seasons of the year.
I. Rubber plant management in spring
① Repotting. When the temperature can steadily stay above 15°C, you can repot the rubber plant. This job is done once every 1-2 years, depending on the soil condition. If the soil is relatively loose and drains well, it can be done once every 2 years.
② Misting. Because the temperature is moderate, this period is the season most suitable for the rubber plant's growth. When watering normally, besides keeping the soil moist, you can also frequently mist around the plant to raise the air humidity.
③ Fertilizing. Once the seedlings grow new leaves, you should start fertilizing, generally once every 3-4 weeks, mainly with dilute liquid fertilizer; the concentration does not need to be high.
④ Light. When the temperature is higher in March, the rubber plant should be moved indoors for cultivation, and a spot with partial light or where it can receive scattered light is most suitable.
II. Rubber plant management in summer
① Avoid strong light. In summer the outdoor temperature can sometimes reach above 35°C. Although the rubber plant is relatively tolerant of high temperatures, if it is placed outdoors it may be exposed to direct sunlight, which will make the leaves lose their luster, so in summer it should be shaded or moved back indoors.
② Water more. Summer is the period when more watering is needed. At this time, how do you grow a rubber plant fast? Generally, water a small amount every morning, then check whether the soil is dry or wet to decide whether watering is needed in the evening.
III. Rubber plant management in autumn
① Move it back outdoors. After summer has passed, the rubber plant can be moved outdoors to be cared for in the sunlight. If the temperature is relatively high at noon, you can spray some water appropriately to maintain humidity, and watering can also be changed to once every 2-3 days.
② Fertilize in time. After late autumn, the cold winter is about to arrive, so at this time some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to improve its ability to resist the cold, and after the temperature drops, move the rubber plant indoors to prepare for a smooth overwintering.
IV. Winter management
① Keep it warm. The rubber plant is relatively afraid of cold. It can survive for a short time in a 0°C environment, but it cannot stay in a low-temperature environment for long. The temperature should be kept above 5°C, and warmth should be maintained in time.
② Sufficient light. Although the rubber plant grows relatively slowly in winter, sufficient light is very necessary. You can water 2-3 times a month and must not let the soil become too dry. At this time, no fertilizing is needed.
Rubber plant Ficus elastica Roxb. ex Hornem Rubber plant guide: how to grow a rubber plant / how to propagate a rubber plant
Rubber plant profileRubber plant Ficus elastica Roxb. ex Hornem
Rubber plant cultivation methods and precautions Rubber plant introduction
The rubber plant is an evergreen tree of the Moraceae family. It is native to India and Malaysia, hence it is also called the Indian rubber tree and Indian rubber fig. It is cultivated in many places across China. It likes a hot, humid and sunny environment, and can also tolerate shade but not cold. The rubber plant has an obvious trunk with few branches and aerial roots. The leaves are alternate, long elliptical, thick and leathery, bright green, with many parallel lateral veins; the young leaves are red, and the petioles are thick and sturdy. The rubber plant has high ornamental value and is a famous potted foliage plant. It is extremely suitable for indoor beautification arrangements. Small and medium-sized plants are often used to beautify living rooms and studies; medium and large plants are suitable for placing on both sides of the entrance halls of large buildings and in the center of lobbies, appearing majestic and spectacular and able to reflect a tropical style.
Evergreen woody foliage plant. The rubber plant's leaves are relatively large, thick and leathery, glossy, round to long elliptical; the upper surface is dark green and the underside is light green. Initially wrapped around the terminal bud, the stipules fall off after the new leaves unfold and leave stipule scars on the branches. Its variegated varieties have yellow-white patches on the green leaves, which are even more beautiful and pleasing to the eye, but its leaves are toxic. The rubber plant is an evergreen tree of the Moraceae family and can reach more than 25 m in height. The young leaves on the leaf blade are rolled inward, thick and leathery, glossy, elliptical to oblong, with the upper surface dark green or red-green and the underside light green.
There are extremely many species in the same genus, about 1000-2000, widely distributed in tropical and subtropical regions, with about 120 species in China.
It likes a hot, humid and sunny environment, and can also tolerate shade but not cold.
[Propagation]: Cuttings are commonly used. It is best done in spring and summer. Choose a one-year-old branch from the upper part of the plant, 20 cm long. After cuttings are taken, they root in 30 days and are potted in 50 days.
[Cultivation]: For potted seedlings, the pot must be changed every spring; for mature plants, the pot can be changed once every 2-3 years to add fertile soil. Pay attention to watering in midsummer; during dry periods, spray water on the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. Fertilize once every half month. When the plant grows to 1 m high, it needs to be topped to promote branching and maintain a beautiful tree shape. In autumn and winter, watering should be reduced.
[Pests and diseases]: It is often affected by anthracnose, leaf spot and gray mold, which can be sprayed with a 500-fold dilution of 65% zineb. Pests include scale insects and thrips, which can be killed by spraying with a 1000-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate.
[Morphological characteristics]: It is a large evergreen tree. The bark is smooth, grayish brown; the branchlets are green with few branches. The leaves are elliptical, 10-30 cm long, thick and leathery, with an obtuse caudate apex, a rounded base and entire margins; the upper surface is dark green with grayish green or yellow-white markings and brown spots, and the underside is light green. The stipules are reddish brown, wrap around the terminal bud and fall off when the new leaves unfold. The whole plant has milky sap. The variegated rubber plant has broad, glossy leaves with beautiful color patches, and its tree shape is full and dignified.
[Growth habits]: It likes a warm and humid environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C, and the safe overwintering temperature is 5°C. It likes bright light and avoids direct sunlight. It tolerates dry air. It avoids clayey soil, is not tolerant of barrenness or drought, and likes loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
[Landscape uses]: Small plants can be placed on windowsills or tables, while medium and large plants are suitable for decorating halls, offices and meeting rooms.
Morphological characteristics of the rubber plant
Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 m. The stem is hairless and has milky sap. The leaves are thick, leathery, with long petioles, and the leaves are oblong or elliptical. The rubber plant's leaves are thick and beautiful, broad, attractive and glossy; the red terminal bud resembles a crouching cloud, and the stipules look just like a red tassel hanging upside down after splitting, quite charming. It is a potted foliage plant. Suitable for indoor beautification arrangements.
Distribution area of the rubber plant
The rubber plant is native to India, Malaysia and other places, and is now widely cultivated across China. It likes a hot, humid and sunny environment; the suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C and it avoids direct sunlight. It can also tolerate shade but not cold, and the safe overwintering temperature is 5°C. It tolerates dry air. It avoids clayey soil, is not tolerant of barrenness or drought, and likes loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
Rubber plant cultivation techniques and key cultivation points
(1) Temperature: It likes warmth, and the most suitable temperature for growth is 20-25°C. It tolerates high temperatures and can grow well above 30°C. It is not cold-tolerant, and the safe overwintering temperature is 5°C; variegated varieties are slightly less cold-tolerant, and the overwintering temperature should preferably be maintained above 8°C. When the temperature is low, it will produce a large number of fallen leaves.
(2) Light: It likes bright scattered light and has a certain shade tolerance. It is not tolerant of intense sunlight exposure; when the light is too strong, it will scorch the leaves and cause yellowing and scorched leaves. It should also not be too shady, otherwise it will cause a large number of fallen leaves and make the beautiful patches of variegated varieties fade. From May to September, shading should be carried out, or the plant should be placed in a place with sufficient scattered light. The rest of the time, it should be given sufficient sunlight.
(3) Watering: It likes a moist soil environment, and during the growing period, water should be supplied fully to keep the potting soil moist. In winter, watering needs to be controlled; when the temperature is low and the potting soil is too wet, it easily causes root rot.
(4) Environmental humidity: It likes a humid environment. During the growing season, when it is sunny and the air is dry, water should often be sprayed on the branches and leaves and the surrounding environment to increase the relative air humidity.
(5) Fertilizing: Because it grows rapidly, nutrients should be supplied in time to make the plant grow vigorously. A nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied 2-3 times a month. Variegated varieties grow relatively slowly, so the number of fertilizations can be reduced, while more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied to make the patches on the leaves bright and colorful. If too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied or only nitrogen fertilizer is used, the color of the patches will fade or even disappear. In September, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and only phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to improve the plant's cold resistance. In winter, the plant goes dormant, so fertilizing should be stopped.
(6) Pruning: In spring, pruning is carried out together with moving the plant out of the shed. Remove the forked branches, inward-growing branches, dead branches and thin weak branches inside the crown, and shorten the rampant branches that protrude beyond the crown, so as to keep good ventilation and light penetration inside the plant and maintain a round, neat tree shape. If the crown is too large, the outer branches can be shortened as a whole. During the growing period, overly dense branches should be thinned out at any time and long branches should be shortened.
(7) Repotting: Usually the pot needs to be changed once every 2 years. It likes fertile, loose and well-drained sandy loam. The substrate can be prepared from garden soil, leaf mold and plain sand, etc., and farmyard manure can be mixed in as a base fertilizer.
(8) Pest and disease control: It is harmed by leaf spot disease and pests such as red spider mites, Ficus thrips and scale insects.
Choice of growing medium
For potting, use peat soil and leaf mold plus 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer to make a growing medium, or fine sandy soil can also be used. The rubber plant grows relatively fast and likes fertilizer; apply fertilizer once a week. Usually, the pot or soil is changed before new shoots grow in spring. When the seedlings are 80 cm-100 cm tall, pinch them as needed to promote lateral bud germination. Generally, 3 main branches are kept and the other excess ones are removed. If cultivated well, it can grow into a large plant of 2 m in about 3 years. The rubber plant likes strong sunlight; from spring to autumn, it should be grown in the sun throughout the entire growing season, and in winter it should also be placed in the brightest place indoors. If placed indoors for viewing, it should generally be replaced once every 2 weeks and not left for too long. The rubber plant grows very fast in a high-humidity, moist environment, producing one leaf every 5-7 days. During this period, sufficient fertilizer and water must be guaranteed. In autumn, gradually reduce fertilizing and watering to promote solid branch growth. Because the rubber plant has strong resistance to dry environments, it is also relatively easy to cultivate in North China. It should be placed in a room above 10°C for overwintering; long-term low temperature and wet potting soil easily cause root rot. From the end of April to the beginning of October each year, move it outdoors for cultivation.
Potted care
1. Soil preparation
When potting the rubber plant, it is advisable to use 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil and 1 part river sand, and add a small amount of base fertilizer to make the growing medium.
2. Watering and fertilizing
It grows very fast in a hot and humid environment, producing one leaf every 5-10 days. During this period, sufficient fertilizer and water must be guaranteed. Generally, apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1-2 times a month, while maintaining relatively high soil moisture. After autumn begins, gradually reduce the frequency of fertilizing and watering to promote solid plant growth and help it overwinter.
3. Sunlight
The rubber plant likes strong sunlight. From spring to autumn, it should be grown in the sun throughout the entire growing season, and in winter it should also be placed in a place with relatively strong light; but it can also tolerate shade and grows fairly well indoors under low light.
4. Pinching
In addition, in order to make the plant grow symmetrically and ensure a good plant shape, pinch the seedlings when they reach a height of 50-80 cm to promote lateral bud germination; after the lateral branches grow, choose 3-5 branches, and thereafter shorten the lateral branches once a year. After 2-3 years, a relatively large plant with a complete, round and full shape can be obtained.
5. Pruning tips: The central stem usually grows straight and has no branches. Regularly prune the growing tip, and lateral branches form as it grows. By simply cutting off the top, it becomes too tall, and you can control its height. Use sharp pruning shears to avoid tearing the stem.
6. Change the water regularly: to keep the rubber plant healthy. When the rubber plant's leaves turn yellow and fall off, it is a sign of excessive water.[7]
Precautions
[Watering]: Just keep the soil in a slightly dry or slightly moist state regularly. Summer is the stage when the rubber plant needs the most water, so you can water more. Winter is the period when the rubber plant needs the least water, so supply less water. Fertilizing: During the vigorous growth season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. should be applied as topdressing.
[Light]: The rubber plant likes strong direct sunlight and also tolerates shady environments. However, during cultivation, it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight every day. If conditions permit, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full sun.
[Ventilation]: Just keep the environment properly ventilated.
[Temperature]: The rubber plant likes a high-temperature environment, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The environmental temperature should be kept between 20-30°C. When the environmental temperature is below 10°C, the rubber plant is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
Propagation methods of the rubber plant
The rubber plant is commonly propagated by cuttings and air layering. Cutting propagation is relatively simple, very easy to root and fast-growing.
Cuttings
Cuttings are the main method, but air layering or leaf-bud cuttings can also be used. Propagation is mostly carried out in spring. Before taking cuttings, select good branches as cuttings. One- to two-year-old branches are best, with 3 nodes per cutting. The cutting substrate is made by mixing peat, perlite, river sand, etc. Remove the lower leaves of the cutting and insert it into the substrate. After cutting, keep the temperature at about 25°C, and roots will form in about 1-1.5 months. During the cutting process, pay attention to moisture retention, frequently spray water on the cuttings, and place them in a shaded environment for cultivation. After rooting, pot them up and enter the normal management stage.
The substrate can be made by mixing peat soil, leaf mold, river sand, etc. Slightly acidic is best. The rubber plant's leaves are thick, so its water requirements are not very high. In the high-temperature summer and dry autumn environment, pay attention to watering and just keep the substrate moist. After winter begins, the temperature drops, so watering should be controlled and the substrate can be slightly drier. The rubber plant does not have high fertilizer requirements; during the peak growth season, use compound fertilizer once every half month, and do not fertilize in winter. The optimal growth temperature is 20-30°C.
It is generally done in late spring and early summer in combination with pruning. Choose a one-year-old lignified middle branch as the cutting, keeping three buds per cutting, cut off the lower leaf, fold the upper two leaves together and tie them with plastic, or cut off half of the upper leaf to reduce water evaporation; in order to prevent excessive loss of milky sap from the cut and affect survival, promptly smear the wound with plant ash; insert the prepared cutting into a cutting bed with river sand or vermiculite as the substrate; after cutting, keep the cutting bed relatively humid and frequently sprinkle water on the ground (but it must not accumulate water) to increase air humidity. At 18-25°C and under semi-shade conditions, roots will form in about 2-3 weeks.
Air layering
Air layering is also relatively convenient to use at home, and the success rate is high. When air layering, choose a two-year-old branch, first make a ring cut 1-1.5 cm wide on the branch; then wrap moist moss or peat soil around the wound, finally wrap it tightly with plastic film and tie both the upper and lower ends; after 1-2 months, the rooted branch can be cut off and potted.
Besides daily fertilizing for rubber plant care. There are also two cultivation techniques:
(1) Cutting method. This method is simple to operate, very easy to root, and fast-growing. The cutting time is in late spring and early summer, and it can be carried out in combination with pruning. The cuttings mostly use one-year-old semi-lignified middle branches. After the cuttings are cut, to prevent too much milky sap from flowing out of the cut and affecting survival, promptly seal the wound with clay or plant ash. The length of the cutting is based on keeping 3 buds; cut off the lower leaf, fold the upper two leaves together and tie them with thin plastic rope to reduce leaf evaporation. Then insert them into a cutting bed with plain sandy soil or vermiculite as the substrate. After cutting, keep the cutting bed relatively humid, but do not let water accumulate. The suitable temperature is 18-25°C. Frequently sprinkle water on the ground to increase air humidity, and do a good job of shading and ventilation. Roots will form in about 2-3 weeks. After potting, place them in a slightly shaded place, and gradually increase light after the new buds sprout.
(2) Air layering method. For home flower growers, propagation by air layering is relatively convenient, and the success rate is also relatively high. The method is: choose a two-year-old branch of appropriate size, well developed and with substantial tissue, make a light ring girdle about 1 cm wide at the part where soil will be wrapped, and apply 30-50 ppm naphthalene acetic acid solution, then use wet soil or a moss mixture or water-saturated vermiculite to wrap the girdled part, and tie it on the outside with plastic film, tying the lower end tightly and leaving an opening at the upper end to allow ventilation and watering. Pay attention to care; if layered in June, roots form in July-August. After rooting, it can be cut off and potted.
Landscape uses of the rubber plant
The rubber plant's leaves are thick and beautiful, broad, attractive and glossy; the red terminal bud resembles a crouching cloud, and the stipules look just like a red tassel hanging upside down after splitting, quite charming. It has high ornamental value and is a famous potted foliage plant. Although the rubber plant likes the sun, it also tolerates shade and has strong adaptability to light, so it is extremely suitable for indoor beautification arrangements. Small and medium-sized plants are often used to beautify living rooms and studies; medium and large plants are suitable for placing on both sides of the entrance halls of large buildings and in the center of lobbies, appearing majestic and spectacular and able to reflect a tropical style.
The rubber plant has large, glossy leaves and stays evergreen all year round. It is a large shade-tolerant foliage plant. As a potted plant, it is a good material for decorating hotel halls and family rooms. In the south, it is often placed in front of buildings, in the center of flower beds and on both sides of roads. Its common varieties of the same genus include the variegated rubber plant and the fiddle-leaf fig. The rubber plant is a green "vacuum cleaner."
Placing some plants in a closed room makes dust decrease significantly faster than when there are no plants. Dust in indoor air mainly comes from smoking, heating, cooking, office equipment, and the wear and heating of building materials. Dust is divided into two types: one is settled dust, which generally falls naturally to the ground because its particles are relatively large; the other is called suspended dust or inhalable particulate matter, which always remains suspended because its particles are relatively small. Cigarette smoke belongs to this type, and green plants placed indoors are a powerful "weapon" against these tiny particles. Suspended dust carries an electric charge, and when it approaches an uncharged plant, it is adsorbed onto the plant's surface.
Therefore, in places where cigarette smoke is relatively concentrated, in addition to placing more green plants, you should also frequently rinse or wipe the leaf surfaces with a spray bottle, which will make the dust-absorbing effect even better. The rubber plant has a unique function of purifying dust and can also purify formaldehyde among volatile organic compounds. The rubber plant can also absorb carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide and hydrogen fluoride from the air, purifying the air. The rubber plant likes sunny places, which can ensure vigorous photosynthesis and transpiration. For offices with a lot of dust, it is most suitable to place it by the window. The rubber plant is not cold-tolerant, so do not place it in a low-temperature place in winter. Change the pot once every 2-3 years.
Rubber plant disease control: anthracnose
The rubber plant is prone to anthracnose, and its pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or elliptical gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins, and in severe cases the lesions join together and spread to the entire leaf.
Control methods:
1. In combination with pruning, remove diseased branches, diseased leaves and dead tips to reduce the pathogen.
2. Usually pay attention to light penetration and ventilation, do not place them too densely, and select disease-free plants for taking cuttings and propagating seedlings.
3. After new shoots grow in early spring, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture. From June to September, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture, or lime sulfur mixture with a Baume degree of 0.3, or 0.5% potassium permanganate once every half month. In addition, before or in the early stage of the disease, spray 500-800 fold dilutions of 50% thiophanate wettable powder, Tuzet, chlorothalonil, carbendazim and other wettable powders.
Gray leaf spot
It is more severe in September-October. Small gray spots first appear and expand into irregular shapes, grayish white inside with dark brown edges. Later the diseased leaves dry and crack, and black granular bodies appear. The pathogen invades through wounds.
Control methods:
In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim at 1000-fold or 70% thiophanate-methyl at 1200-fold.
Root-knot nematode disease
After the rubber plant is infected with root-knot nematode disease, its growth stagnates, the plant becomes stunted and erect, and the leaf edges turn yellow or scorched. When the roots are dug open, many tumor-like bodies of varying sizes, namely galls, can be seen on the lateral roots and fibrous roots. Cutting open the galls reveals many yellow-white oval female nematodes inside. The roots of the affected plant rot, the aboveground part grows slowly, and in severe cases growth stops and even the plant dies.
Pathogen: Meloidogyne incognita (Kofoid et White), called the southern root-knot nematode, belongs to the nematodes. Under the microscope, the female's perineal pattern has 1 obviously high dorsal arch, and the dorsal arch is composed of smooth to wavy striae; some striae fork at the sides, but there is no obvious lateral line, and there are often some fine striae bending toward the vulva; the pattern as a whole is long oval.
Transmission routes and disease conditions: It overwinters as adults or eggs in diseased tissue, or as larvae in the soil. Diseased soil and diseased manure are the main sources of the disease. The following year, overwintering larvae and larvae hatched from overwintering eggs invade through the roots, causing initial infection in the field, and then cycle back and forth, continuously causing re-infection. The southern root-knot nematode occurs relatively commonly across the country, mostly in sandy soil or sandy loam. The suitable development temperature of this nematode is 25-30°C; larvae lose their viability when encountering a low temperature of 10°C, die after 5 minutes at 48-60°C, survive in the soil for 1 year, and all die after 2 years. This nematode is most suitable for surviving in warm southern regions. The temperature in Baotou City in the north is not suitable for its growth and development, but many garden plants in the north are transported from the south, and when introduced they are all in the original pot and original soil, so the southern root-knot nematode settles down in greenhouses or rooms in Baotou and reproduces and causes damage. The southern root-knot nematode is the dominant species and can infect chrysanthemum, begonia, cyclamen, red-backed excoecaria, gardenia, peony, tree peony, coleus, snapdragon, carnation, jasmine, rose, littleleaf box and many other flowers and trees.
Control methods: (1) When propagating rubber plants in the open field, deeply plow the land to a depth of 24 cm, turn the galls in the surface soil into the deep layer to reduce the source of insects, and at the same time apply more fully decomposed organic fertilizer. (2) Promptly remove diseased and residual roots and bury them deeply or burn them. (3) Chemical control. Apply 10% Miral granular formulation in holes at 5 kg per 667 sq m, or 5% Miral granular formulation at 10 kg per 667 sq m, 3% isofenphos-methyl granular formulation at 10-15 kg per 667 sq m, 3% Miral granular formulation at 1-1.5 kg per 667 sq m at the seedling stage and 1.5-2 kg at the mature plant stage, applied in furrows. It can also be sprayed or irrigated with 250 ml of 40% isofenphos-methyl, i.e. a 1000-fold dilution, with a control effect of more than 85%. (4) For potted plants, apply 15% aldicarb granular formulation to each pot at 2 g of pesticide per 2 kg of soil.
Yellow leaf phenomenon
1. It is caused by the plant not being repotted for a long time, resulting in soil compaction. In the early growth stage, the rubber plant needs to be repotted once a year, and the pot diameter should be larger year by year. After 6-8 years of growth, it can be repotted once every three years. If it is not repotted for a long time, the potting soil will become severely compacted and the soil aeration will be poor, causing the rubber plant's fibrous roots to suffocate and die, unable to absorb water and nutrients, and causing the plant's leaves to wither and fall off.
The remedy is: when the temperature reaches above 15°C, repot, cut off the dead roots, and shake off most of the old soil. Remove the yellowed leaves, shorten the stem appropriately, replace the original compacted potting soil with fresh fertile growing medium, and keep the soil moist regularly. This can induce it to send out new roots again, restore health, and grow into a plant with many branches. In subsequent care, keep the potting soil well aerated and drained. While keeping the potting soil moderately moist, loosen the potting soil once every 15-20 days to avoid soil compaction caused by repeated watering, which can lead to root rot or root shrinkage.
2. It is caused by the plant not being fertilized for a long time. The rubber plant likes heavy fertilizer and heavy watering; not fertilizing for a long time will cause malnutrition and lead to yellowing of the leaves. The remedy is: add an appropriate amount of base fertilizer when repotting, remove the yellow leaves, and thereafter apply liquid fertilizer once every half month, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
3. It is caused by the overwintering temperature being too low. The minimum suitable temperature for the rubber plant is above 6-8°C. If the indoor temperature in winter is below 5°C, leaf withering and falling will occur. The remedy is: raise the overwintering room temperature and be sure to keep it above 6-8°C.
4. It is caused by excessive watering or fertilizing. Although the rubber plant is a plant that likes water and fertilizer, if watered and fertilized too much, especially from August to September when the weather is still relatively muggy, excessive watering will form water accumulation in the pot; or if watered too much during overwintering, when the plant is in the dormant period and transpiration is reduced, the water in the pot cannot be discharged in time; or if raw fertilizer, heavy fertilizer or concentrated fertilizer is mistakenly applied, root rot will occur due to water damage or fertilizer damage, causing the leaves to wither and yellow. If the root rot is caused by fertilizer damage, the roots will be accompanied by an unpleasant smell. The remedy is: first cut off the rotted roots until the cut surface is fresh and white milky sap exudes. Let them air dry slightly until the milky sap at the wound dries, or apply sulfur powder to the wound for disinfection, or smear clean plant ash or charcoal chips on the wound. At the same time, cut off part of the branches to reduce transpiration water consumption, then repot; when replanting, it is advisable to use clean, slightly damp fine sand to first surround the root wound, and use fresh loose sandy loam on the outside for planting. Strengthen shading and misting management, and do not water again until the potting soil is dry; as long as the plant's root system is not too severely damaged, new fine fibrous roots will grow from the root wound after one month. In subsequent care, just keep the potting soil slightly moist regularly, do not water excessively, and spray more water on the leaf surface in the morning and evening.
5. It is caused by the indoor air being too dry, so the moisture in the potting soil is insufficient to supply the transpiration use of all the leaves, causing some leaves, especially the lower old leaves, to yellow and even fall off. The remedy is: check the moisture level of the potting soil from time to time, replenish water in time, spray water on the leaf surface every morning and evening, and if it is still insufficient, spray water on the leaf surface again around noon. Note: the water temperature for watering and spraying should be basically the same as the soil temperature and room temperature. If the water temperature for watering and spraying differs greatly from the soil temperature and air temperature, it is easy to cause adverse physiological reactions.
6. It is caused by poor indoor ventilation. If the room is not ventilated for a long time, some harmful gases will accumulate, such as excessively high carbon dioxide concentration, which will also cause yellow leaves. The remedy is: open the windows in time for ventilation, and keep the room ventilated and the air fresh to improve it. In winter, you can open the doors and windows at noon when the temperature is relatively high to replace the indoor air.
7. It is caused by long-term shading. The rubber plant is a tropical tree species and likes sufficient sunlight; it is not tolerant of shade. If it cannot see sunlight indoors for a long time, yellow leaves will also occur. The remedy is: place the plant in a place with sunlight.
8. It may be infected with gray mold. The remedy is: promptly remove and burn diseased leaves when found. Increase indoor light and raise the room temperature. Or alternately spray 50% vinclozolin wettable powder at 1200-fold, or 40% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 600-fold, once every 7-10 days, continuously spraying 2-3 times, which can effectively control the spread of the disease.
Rubber plant variety classification, varieties and cultivars
Commonly cultivated varieties and cultivars include: golden-edged rubber plant, whose leaf margins are golden yellow; variegated rubber plant, whose leaves are slightly round and whose leaf margins and blade have many irregular yellow-white patches, with relatively weak growth vigor and relatively slow propagation; white-spotted rubber plant, whose leaves are relatively narrow and have many white patches; golden-star broadleaf rubber plant, whose leaves are far larger and rounder than ordinary rubber plants, brown-red-green when young, and after the leaves mature the red-brown fades slightly, with sparse needle-head-sized spots scattered near the edges, which can be distinguished with a little attention. It is an excellent variety of rubber plant.
New varieties
Ordinary rubber plants are mostly green, and the color is somewhat monotonous and lacks vitality. The new rubber plant variety introduced from Italy, Black Prince, adds some new interest to the monotonous and dull color of ordinary rubber plants. The name Black Prince sounds somewhat masculine, but its red leaf sheath is like a shy young girl, bright red as if about to drip, revealing charm within masculinity.
Expert: The biggest feature of the rubber plant is that the leaf color is especially red, and within the red there is green. In particular, unlike ordinary rubber plant varieties, its leaf sheath is very red, and the edges of the leaves have two rows of very neat small round dots, very distinctive and very beautiful. The rubber plant Black Prince has an elegant and imposing leaf posture and strong vitality, and can grow in all four seasons.
The rubber plant Black Prince grows fast and has good adaptability. Usually, it only needs simple watering and fertilizing, and does not require special management. Because the rubber plant Black Prince has just been introduced, compared with ordinary rubber plants, farmers also have an advantage in price when planting it.
In terms of sales, ordinary varieties are not easy to sell. New varieties sell particularly well; compared with ordinary varieties, the price of new varieties differs by half.
The rubber plant Black Prince can be potted or grown in the ground. In the north it is more suitable for indoor care, and in the south it is an excellent variety for outdoor landscaping. Black Prince likes warmth and color and tolerates shade. Farmers should pay attention to keeping it warm when planting. Its temperature must not be below zero; below zero it will suffer cold damage. Protected cultivation is generally recommended. When watering normally, try to make it a little wetter and water more. In high temperatures, shade it; if the light is too strong, it easily scorches its leaves.
Black Prince is a rare excellent product among rubber plants, adding one more choice while beautifying life.
Uses and functions of the rubber plant
I. The rubber plant is an ornamental plant with tropical characteristics
We who have always lived in the northern temperate zone also yearn for life in tropical Southeast Asia, don't we? With high temperatures and humidity all year round, the plants are all emerald green with thick, large leaves. Then the rubber plant is a very good choice. It does not require you to free up much space; just a small flowerpot and it can quietly grow on its own. Evergreen all year round, it has thick leaves that seem to give off the flavor of sunny beaches, letting you experience the tropical style right at home. Therefore, the rubber plant is a green ornamental bonsai that many tropical enthusiasts like to grow at home.
II. Refuse to inhale secondhand smoke
Many male comrades, because companies and public places outside have been designated as no-smoking areas, start smoking at home. Secondhand smoke is very harmful to other family members, especially women, the elderly and children, seriously affecting their health. But if a rubber plant is kept at home, it is not only ornamental but also has a very good effect of purifying the air and absorbing secondhand smoke and toxic gases. If your home has just been renovated or there is a heavy smoker in the family, be sure to buy an air purifier for your family: the rubber plant!
III. A plant that tenaciously grows on its own
The rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is an extremely vigorous plant with a strong ability to adapt to its environment, so generally, when you buy a pot of rubber plant, it does not need meticulous daily care and can still grow very vigorously. It is like a selfless family member who does not need anything back from you yet offers you a share of verdant greenery and a safe air environment every day. Many flower enthusiasts greatly appreciate this quality of the rubber plant.
Rubber plant pictures
How to grow and care for the potted foliage plant rubber plant, and points to note
The rubber plant is a famous potted foliage plant, also known as rubber tree, Brazilian rubber, and so on. It is a large tree of the genus Ficus in the mulberry family, with high ornamental value, and is extremely suitable for indoor beautification and decoration. Small and medium-sized plants are often used to beautify living rooms and studies, while medium and large-sized plants are suitable for placing on both sides of the entrance hall and in the center of the lobby of large buildings. Below, let us take a look at how to grow and care for the rubber plant and the points to note!
The growth habits of the rubber plant
The rubber plant is native to Brazil and is now widely cultivated in the tropical regions of Asia. It is cultivated in Taiwan, China, southern Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan and southern Yunnan in China, with more planting in Hainan and Yunnan. It likes a high-temperature, humid environment with plenty of sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C, and it dislikes direct sunlight. It can also tolerate shade but not cold, and the safe overwintering temperature is 5°C. It tolerates dry air. It dislikes clayey soil, and does not tolerate poor, barren soil or drought. It prefers loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
Propagation methods of the rubber plant
1. Cutting method: The cutting time is in late spring and early summer, and it can be done together with pruning. For cuttings, one-year-old semi-lignified middle branches are mostly used, and the wounds should be sealed promptly with clay or plant ash. The length of the cutting is based on retaining 3 buds; cut off the lower leaf, bring the upper two leaves together, and tie them well with thin plastic string. Then insert the cutting into a cutting bed with plain sand or vermiculite as the substrate. After insertion, keep the cutting bed at relatively high humidity, but do not let it become waterlogged. The suitable temperature is 18-25°C. Frequently sprinkle water on the ground to increase air humidity, and do a good job of shading and ventilation. Roots can form in about 2-3 weeks.
2. Layering method: Select a 2-year-old branch of appropriate size, well developed and with solid tissue. Make a light ring-shaped girdle about 1 cm wide at the part where soil is to be wrapped, and apply 30-50 ppm naphthalene acetic acid solution. Then use wet soil or a moss mixture or vermiculite that has absorbed enough water to wrap the girdled part, tie it on the outside with plastic film, tie the lower end tightly, and leave an opening at the upper end to allow ventilation and watering. Pay attention to care. Layer in June, and roots form in July-August. Once rooted, it can be cut off and potted.
How to grow the rubber plant
1. Temperature: The best temperature for the rubber plant is 20-25°C. Even above 30°C it can still grow well, but in winter, if the temperature is too low, the rubber plant will produce a large amount of fallen leaves. Its cold tolerance is very poor, and in the northern regions of China it needs to overwinter in a greenhouse.
2. Light: It is indeed true that sunlight is the food of plants. In the cultivation of the rubber plant, sunlight is also a treasure. Giving it plenty of sunlight lets it grow strong and healthy. From May to September, provide appropriate shading.
3. Fertilizing: The presence of fertilizer is like calcium supplementation, strengthening its “physical health.” Fertilizing is also one of the key points in the cultivation of the rubber plant. It can reduce the occurrence of spots and make the leaves brighter. Simply using nitrogen fertilizer is enough. Remember to stop fertilizing in winter.
4. Pruning: When spring arrives, it is time to prune the rubber plant. Cut off the forked branches inside the canopy, inward-growing branches and thin weak branches, maintaining internal ventilation as well as good light penetration and the overall shape. Generally, in the cultivation of the rubber plant, it must be repotted once every 2 years, with materials such as leaf mold added for a fresh mix. It prefers loose, well-drained loam.
5. Soil: The rubber plant likes fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil. For the potting soil, it is best to use 4 parts leaf mold, grass ash soil plus about one part river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer.
6. Watering: During the hot summer period, the rubber plant grows relatively fast and should be given plenty of fertilizer and water, but avoid waterlogging in the pot. After autumn begins, gradually reduce watering to promote solid plant growth and help it overwinter.
Points to note when growing the rubber plant
1. The suitable growth temperature for the rubber plant is 25-30°C. In winter, if it is below 3°C, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off, so in winter it should be placed indoors in a sunny spot and kept at a room temperature above 10°C. When it exceeds 35°C in summer, the plant should be moved to a cool, ventilated place for care, and water should be sprayed at the right time to lower the temperature.
2. The rubber plant is a plant of the mulberry family, and the whole plant contains milky sap. Therefore, after each pruning, immediately seal the cut with clay or apply charcoal powder, so as to avoid excessive sap flow causing water loss and death.
3. During the seedling stage, the rubber plant needs to have the direction of the pot changed regularly, in order to avoid the plant growing toward one side, which would make the plant shape small and improper and affect its appearance.
4. Generally, after the rubber plant becomes a mature seedling, as the roots grow larger and larger, the soil becomes compacted, hindering soil aeration and causing the rubber plant to turn yellow, and in severe cases it may die. It is best to repot once every spring before the new buds grow. Loosen the soil once every 15-20 days until it resumes normal growth.
The cultivation value of the rubber plant
1. Ornamental value: The rubber plant has large, glossy leaves and is evergreen all year round. It is a large shade-tolerant foliage plant. Whether placed in the halls and corridors of ordinary households or used to decorate the lobby of hotels and restaurants, the potted rubber plant is a very good decorative material, and it has vigorous growth ability and does not need much care.
2. Air purification: In places with plenty of sunlight, the rubber plant can carry out vigorous photosynthesis and transpiration, regulating air humidity and oxygen content. Moreover, the rubber plant has a unique function of purifying dust, and can also absorb harmful gases such as formaldehyde among volatile organic compounds, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide and hydrogen fluoride in the air, purifying the stale indoor air.
3. Feng shui effect: In home feng shui, the rubber plant is related to family harmony and the cultivation of interpersonal connections. The placement of the rubber plant will affect the family's fortune and prospects. Placing the rubber plant in an appropriate indoor position has the effect of inviting good fortune and promoting prosperity, and resolving indoor yin energy and sha energy.
What to do if the rubber plant drops its leaves?
1. Insufficient light: Insufficient light is one of the reasons the rubber plant drops its leaves. The rubber plant is a sun-loving, shade-tolerant plant. Placing the rubber plant in a dark place for a long time where it cannot get sunlight can easily cause it to drop its leaves. Place the rubber plant in a place with plenty of sunlight and maintain good light. In winter, it is best if it can also receive sunlight all day long.
2. Too low temperature: Too low temperature is also a cause of the rubber plant dropping its leaves. The rubber plant likes places with high temperature, high humidity and plenty of sunlight, and the suitable growth temperature is 20-25°C. Especially in winter, generally when the temperature is below 10°C, the rubber plant will begin to drop its leaves. At this time, the rubber plant needs to be moved indoors or to another place with a higher temperature for cultivation, but note that it should have sunlight.
3. Improper watering: Watering the rubber plant too frequently or not watering it for a long time can both cause it to drop its leaves. During the growth period, the rubber plant must be watered frequently. Especially in the hot midsummer season, due to the large amount of evaporation, it is necessary not only to water from the roots, but also to frequently spray water on the leaves. However, if the potting soil for growing the rubber plant is too wet, it is prone to root rot, so it must be watered only when the potting soil is dry.
4. Pest infestation: Sometimes the rubber plant also has pest problems. Red spider mites on the leaves and scale insects on the branches and leaves can both cause leaf drop in the rubber plant. When the rubber plant drops its leaves, check whether it is a pest problem and deal with it promptly.
Pruning methods for the rubber plant
1. Pruning season: Pruning the rubber plant should pay attention to “prune branches in winter, control side branches in summer.” That is, in winter, heavily prune strong trees and lightly prune weak trees, focusing on removing upright, strong competing branches from the base. In summer pruning of the rubber plant, heavily control strong vigorous branches, control the strong and keep the weak, adjust the tree vigor to a balanced state, and grasp the principles of cutting back strong side branches, heavy pruning of sturdy branches, light pruning of weak branches, and keeping more small branches, so as to achieve the pruning goal of highlighting the trunk and promoting faster tree growth.
2. Pruning height: The pruning cut of the rubber plant should be smooth, and cracking of the bark must be strictly prevented. The stubble height should preferably be 1-2 cm. Too high or too low will affect wound healing and tree growth. The best pruning seasons for the rubber plant are early spring or late autumn and winter. Early spring is best before the sap flows. If pruned when the tree is sprouting, the tree body transpires quickly, loses water, and consumes more nutrients, which is not good for tree growth. If pruning the rubber plant in summer, be careful not to prune on rainy days, so as to avoid the wounds being soaked in water and becoming infected with disease.
3. Pruning techniques: In the shaping and pruning of the rubber plant, sometimes it is also necessary to highlight the growth of the trunk or main branches and remove dense branches or branches that affect the shape. The commonly used shaping and pruning methods to highlight the trunk and main branches include bud rubbing and branch thinning. That is, rub off the buds that have just begun to sprout, to achieve the purpose of inhibiting side branch growth. The principle is to eliminate side branch growth in the bud stage, so that nutrients are concentrated for the growth of the main branches. That is, use pruning shears to cut off branches from the base. This is often used to thin out overly dense branches. Branch thinning is a remedial measure for bud rubbing, that is, because bud rubbing was not done in time and side branches have already formed, in order to strengthen the growth of the trunk or meet shaping needs, some excess side branches are thinned out.
4. Pruning and care: After pruning the rubber plant, in order to prevent excessive loss of milky sap from the cut and affect survival, promptly apply plant ash to the wound. Insert the prepared cuttings into a cutting bed with river sand or vermiculite as the substrate. After insertion, keep the cutting bed at relatively high humidity, and frequently sprinkle water on the ground (but do not let it become waterlogged) to increase air humidity. At a temperature of 18-25°C and under semi-shade conditions, roots can form in about 2-3 weeks.
Four-season management of the rubber plant
1. Spring management: Repot each spring when the temperature stabilizes at around 15°C, and prune appropriately before repotting. In spring, it should be placed in a place with light, keep the potting soil moist, and frequently sprinkle and spray water around it to increase air humidity. Young plants can begin to be fertilized after new leaves appear. When the temperature is relatively high in late spring, move it to a semi-lit location or an indoor spot with scattered light for placement and cultivation.
2. Summer management: The rubber plant tolerates high temperatures and strong sun, but when the light is too strong, the leaf color easily loses its luster, which is not good for viewing. The rubber plant can be placed in a bright indoor spot. Indoor spots with weaker light are not good for its growth. Because the rubber plant has many large leaves and a high water consumption, it should be watered promptly to keep the potting soil moist, and at the same time spray its leaves and surroundings more to meet its air humidity requirements.
3. Autumn management: In autumn, the potted plant should be moved to a sunny windowsill or balcony for cultivation, keeping the potting soil moist. When the temperature is relatively high at noon, sprinkle and spray water around it and on the leaves to increase air humidity. In autumn, to enhance its cold resistance, it can be left outdoors in low temperatures for a period of hardening, but it must not be exposed to frost. Before frost, it should be moved promptly into a sunny indoor place.
4. Winter management: The rubber plant is not cold-tolerant and can tolerate short-term low temperatures of 0°C. But the indoor temperature should be kept at around 5°C. At this time, the rubber plant's growth is in a stagnant state. Sufficient light should be ensured, and the potting soil should be kept moist but on the dry side. Too wet potting soil easily causes root rot. When the temperature is relatively high at noon, sprinkle and spray water around it and on the leaves several times. When the indoor temperature is kept above 15°C, the rubber plant can grow normally, and management can refer to spring.