Will pink rain lilies die in winter? Do these four things to overwinter safely and get more blooms

Fellow gardeners all know that pink rain lilies are plants with a certain cold tolerance, but they cannot survive long-term in environments below 0 degrees, otherwise it will cause a large number of leaves to drop, and may even harm their health. So will pink rain lilies die in winter? Do pink rain lilies need their leaves cut in winter? How do pink rain lilies overwinter? The editor answers each question one by one.

Will pink rain lilies die in winter

Botanically, the pink rain lily is a perennial herbaceous plant in the Amaryllidaceae family. It has a certain resistance to low temperatures, so it will not die so easily in winter. However, if you do not pay attention to winter care techniques, it can also slowly wither and die, for example from lack of insulation, careless watering, and so on.

Do pink rain lilies need their leaves cut in winter

Generally speaking, there is no need to cut the leaves of pink rain lilies in winter, but if you find a large number of yellow leaves or diseased leaves, you can remove them immediately. Leaves with disease spots in particular should be cleared away promptly to prevent pathogens from spreading to other leaves. Apart from that, do not prune pink rain lilies heavily in winter.

How pink rain lilies overwinter

1. Temperature

To make pink rain lilies bloom more after the next year's flowering season, they need to enter a dormant state in winter, so the temperature must not be too high, but it also must not fall below 0 degrees. Try to keep the temperature between 5-10 degrees. If they are planted outdoors, you should cover them with a plastic bag. If they are grown indoors, you need to avoid excessively high temperatures.

2. Watering

In winter, reduce the frequency of watering. Too much water will cause the roots to rot, because at this time their demand for moisture is relatively low. Try to keep the soil on the dry side, but you should still water 2-3 times over the whole winter to prevent the soil from becoming too dry and hardening in spring.

3. Fertilizing

Pink rain lilies themselves do not have a high demand for fertilizer, so how do pink rain lilies overwinter when it comes to fertilizing? The answer is to stop fertilizing. During the growing season, fertilize once every 2-3 months on average. During the winter dormant period, stop fertilizing to prevent excess nutrients from causing fertilizer burn.

4. Light

For pink rain lilies grown indoors, give them enough light in winter. This prevents the leaves from turning yellow and dropping due to too little light, keeps the leaves green, and even if growth stalls in winter, they can still deliver the benefits and effects of pink rain lilies.

These 12 cold-hardy flowers just won't freeze to death~

The Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm toward spring, and quite a number of flowers begin to shift from winter dormancy into the recovery stage. This month's flower tasks mainly include the following aspects: first, continue doing the cold-proofing and heat-preservation work for potted flowers inside protective facilities; second, do a good job of post-bloom pruning and repotting for some woody flowers; third, do the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and seed propagation for some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, Gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, French marigold (Tagetes patula), dwarf petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. At the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have already been stratified in sand and have split open and shown white; also camphor tree, tulip tree, Ligustrum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, lilac, etc. Seeds of wintersweet, Calycanthus, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours until they have absorbed enough water before sowing. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plants that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, take one-year-old branches of cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), crape myrtle, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, hibiscus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, boxwood, oil hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stratified branches of lilac and Campsis can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can still be cut and stored for treatment, so as to be used for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, jasmine, Chloranthus, Buddha's hand, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Pilea cadierei, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old vigorous black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, golden five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea'), whitebark pine, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with plastic film to retain heat and moisture. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and cleft-graft superior cultivars of wintersweet such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti'; by adopting the measure of bagging and inflating to retain moisture, the survival rate is relatively high. Use vigorous branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock and scion, and cleft-graft or split-graft superior rose cultivars as scions; by adopting the measures of grafting first, then cuttings, then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, the grafting survival rate can be greatly increased.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, gardenia, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, variegated Liriope, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, small tulip, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, spider plant, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Canna, Calathea, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered Spiraea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus indicus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', bamboo fern, Arundinaria fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of Nandina domestica, holly species, Ardisia crenata, winter coral, etc. can be picked; after treatment, stratify them in sand to promote germination, and only sow after the seeds have split open and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking the various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any moldy seeds appear; if mold occurs, wash them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already split open and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown in spots, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows; after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high; herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, Calendula, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be planted out. Among the deciduous types are hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus species, ginkgo, sweetgum, Acer species, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (carry out before budding and leafing), Magnolia species, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Campsis, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc., can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. In February the weather is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (in-tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of internal nutrients, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so the work of moisture retention and cold protection should continue carefully. If the greenhouse or plastic tunnel has heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang the straw curtains; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed inside protective facilities, continue doing the ventilation and air exchange work; especially by the end of February, the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of the day when the temperature is highest. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For the small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept in the home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea makoyana, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Dieffenbachia, etc., on especially cold days, plastic bags can be added over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so the water requirement is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor spaces, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases the leaves shrivel and wrinkle and the flower buds shrink and drop. For plants such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter coral, etc., bud drop and fruit drop, or even death, may all occur. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or in-tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula, etc., and for fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds, and fruits must also be sprayed with water. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of the flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered Cymbidium bought back after being cultivated in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if the leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    In February, although most potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened; especially when the temperature rises continuously for several days, supplementary watering and spraying should be carried out promptly.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be carried out promptly; especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, around noon on clear days, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping afterward and affecting spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to apply base fertilizer by burying it for most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in a 10°C to 15°C greenhouse (plastic tunnel), such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Neoregelia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out: on flowered branches, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to promote the growth of many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, juniper, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, amaryllis, Asparagus setaceus, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Calathea, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, bitter orange, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in the greenhouse, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray, once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azalea in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plants is difficult to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in the greenhouse (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After the aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, the sooty mold will also disappear along with them.

For insect bodies such as mealybugs, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, blackish round scale, etc. appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush, or killed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or sprayed to kill with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flowerpot.

Continue clearing away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc.; after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun, and after it is fully dried, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be spread in flowerpots as a top dressing; for Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than watering with liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used to mix potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue turning and digging garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include: Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese juniper, juniper, oriental arborvitae, Sargent's juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-branched red pine (Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera'), Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, Ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If indented binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue doing the heat preservation and cold protection work, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially glued rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing undue losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Chapter)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, tulip tree, plum blossom, rose, fig, Camellia japonica, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. No matter how the light is in your courtyard and whether it is dry or wet, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees you should pay attention to the following points: first, the lowest temperature the flowers and trees can endure should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage; second, they should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve the effect of greening and beautification early; for example, ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. should be no less than 2 m in height; eighth, leave some vacant ground for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many kinds of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Gomphrena globosa, zinnia (Zinnia elegans), marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula, corn poppy, Zephyranthes candida, dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants that are relatively shade-tolerant include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species that require relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazil iron, money tree, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered Cymbidium, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, pothos, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some types that require relatively extensive management, such as Nandina domestica, sago palm, Rhapis excelsa, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', cacti, Asparagus setaceus, rubber tree, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, Ficus, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, Calycanthus, red maple, tulip tree; for the latter five, the seeds must all be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised as seedlings after sand stratification to promote germination include: cycad, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, osmanthus, Aesculus, Nandina domestica, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter coral, four-season primrose, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, etc.; some cold-intolerant species should preferably be sown inside a plastic tunnel.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Portulacaria afra, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should preferably be taken in a tunnel or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, golden five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea'), etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scion branches of superior wintersweet cultivars, carry out cleft grafting and bag them to retain moisture, giving a relatively high survival rate; using three-ribbed cactus as rootstock, graft to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus balls, preferably in a plastic tunnel. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, upright juniper, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid grasses, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, sago palm, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, purple triangular wood sorrel, large-flowered Canna, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; for wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, Aesculus, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., transplanting is all right even after budding, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, take a good and sufficient root ball; generally the diameter of the root ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their whole year of growth.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and overgrown flowering branches, one-year-old branches can be cut off 2 to 3 cm from the base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds; through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that spoil the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches grown in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the plant's ventilation and light transmission.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them; this can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year. For some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture promptly after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula, daisy, hollyhock, Malva, variegated Liriope, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, red-flowered wood sorrel, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they bud and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia, sago palm, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium, Calathea, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal attention. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold snaps occasionally move south, in early and mid-March the work of heat preservation and cold protection must still continue; in late March, the doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects that year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers in areas north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work must continue this month, and care must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, sago palm, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and begonia species, carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves, etc. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sargent's juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), Huangshan pine, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. that are mainly appreciated as tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out before budding in March to further improve their shape. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., strong renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

Not every urban household can have a small courtyard, nor can all live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for growing on balconies include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes, with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (Opuntia microdasys, Cleistocactus, Crassula, Echinocactus grusonii, large columnar cactus, Astrophyton, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, leaf cactus, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris radiata, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema modestum, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable as balcony potted plants (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, Ficus, snake plant (Sansevieria), small-leaf privet, Agave, amaryllis, Sageretia thea, Xylosma, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, black pine, juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, portulaca, etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Camellia japonica, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter coral, marigold, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised as seedlings in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia seeds has been collected, after washing them clean, sow them indoors first, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to an outdoor balcony to grow.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, jade plant, graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be propagated by cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors at a bright spot by the windowsill gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be well covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, golden five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea'), plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture must be carried out; otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing; if the potting soil freezes, it easily causes frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which not only affects the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures such as building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into a tunnel can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, Ilex cornuta, holly, black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be carried out. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate spraying. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet, longevity peach, Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape; carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off pest- or disease-infected branches and leaves, and destroy them; for dried and withered cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) placed on top. Make use of the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool; in summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchid species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum, Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up the stepped racks for placing potted flowers on the balcony, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare the potting soil for repotting and have enough various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm, humid airflow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences of cold air moving south, they can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the harm of snow and frost. By Guyu, areas south of the Huai and Yangtze Rivers have ended late frost, with the minimum temperature not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increasing noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; while in areas north of the Huai River, only after the late frost ends in May can potted flowers be moved out. In April, from south to north, flower tasks include the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome spinosa, Mirabilis jalapa, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, portulaca, small dahlia, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens, morning glory, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit pennata, Nicotiana, dwarf petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis, Coreopsis tinctoria, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia, Asparagus setaceus, four-season primrose, Tropaeolum, Kochia scoparia, Hibiscus, Euphorbia cyathophora, basil, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis var. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Manglietia, Michelia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia chingii, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, tulip tree, hybrid tulip tree, North American tulip tree, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown

in April include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, Pseudolarix, crape myrtle, redbud, Albizia, yew, Pittosporum, Chinese tallow, Huangshan Koelreuteria, Sapindus, sweetgum, Acer species, Ormosia, wintersweet, Calycanthus, Exochorda, Lycium, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown in April as collected include: Gerbera, Asparagus setaceus, primrose, winter coral, Fatsia japonica, and Solanum mammosum, etc. Among them, Fatsia japonica can be harvested at the end of April when the fruits have turned black, whitish, and soft; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them on fertile seedling beds. The seeds can also first be stratified in sand until they split open and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have emerged, promptly remove the covering grass and set up shade. For cultivating Solanum mammosum, peel off the outer skin of the harvested golden-yellow fruits, wash out the seeds, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and sow them in fertile sandy soil; after 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge, and when the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, transplanting can be carried out; they can be potted to view the fruits or planted in the ground and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Sophora japonica var. pendula, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered Robinia, as well as cactus balls and Christmas cactus, etc.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: Spathiphyllum, Sansevieria, Aspidistra elatior, ferns, Rhapis excelsa, spider plant, Agave, Dieffenbachia, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Calathea species, Aloe, Peperomia species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, etc. [Note: the source text after this point is garbled and cannot be translated reliably.]

    4. Cuttings

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cutting propagation can be carried out in April. The main species include: boxwood species, Mahonia species, Nandina domestica, cypress species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, Pyracantha, Spiraea, tulip tree, Spiraea thunbergii, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

2. Repotting and transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much of the old soil is removed and the root system is not excessively trimmed during repotting, they can all be repotted in April. However, it should be noted that for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfurled.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as the leaf buds have not yet unfurled or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowering trees and shrubs such as camphor trees, southern magnolias, Michelia species, and white orchids, a portion of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce the transpiration of the canopy. For deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant them before their leaves unfurl, such as white magnolias, horse chestnuts, lindens, crabapples, wintersweet, purple-leaf plums, ornamental peaches, plums, and apricots. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant, so that the transplant can proceed without worry, provided the soil ball is not damaged.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, serissa, water willow, true cypress, winged spindle tree, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, hinoki cypress, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, paper bush, ginkgo, Japanese black pine, and Chinese juniper. Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red nanmu, Chinese fringe tree, trident maple, Japanese oak, galo wood, golden bullet tree, hall crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, horned holly, golden larch, and tiger thorn.

As bonsai plants begin their vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, traction, and correction so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, timely bud removal. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle bundle buds and male and female cones can be identified on new shoots, all female cones growing at the tips of new shoots and male cones located at the base of new shoots should be promptly removed to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, and spraying instead of watering, to ensure that the new needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellias, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendrons, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Daphne, kumquats, bitter oranges, winter coral, crab claw orchids, Chinese Cymbidium, large-flowered Cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, and Phaius tankervilleae, because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after the warmth of spring, they need a topdressing of nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution, to promote their growth. For potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese roses, redbud, pomegranates, Jian orchids, hibiscus, and white orchids, topdressing should also be given, which can be potassium dihydrogen phosphate, with the concentration controlled at around 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolias, purple magnolias, Michelia species, plum blossoms, wintersweet, and crabapples after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in a timely manner to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money trees can be braided in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid them into plaits using an odd number of 3, 5, or 7 trunks. After braiding, press them down with a heavy object to fix their shape, then select a suitable pot for planting. Money trees have extremely strong vitality; even if they cannot be braided or planted in time and are left spread out for 3 to 5 days, it will not affect their survival or subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust Plant Shape and Prevent Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Ornamental Fruit Potted Plants

For potted ornamental fruit trees and shrubs that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, Aucuba, and hall crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily to keep the cutting medium moist at all times, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Handbook: Summer

Flower Planting Handbook (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a crucial period for growing and caring for flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. Flower care in May, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flower and flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in May mainly include: Chinese primrose, Japanese aralia, leatherleaf mahonia, and loquat. Sowing and raising seedlings in May requires attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor excessively dry. Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, preventing rapid wet-dry fluctuations that could cause seeds to "regress." Third, after seedlings emerge, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly set up shade to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May. Mix them with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, and store them in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them and to keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally not exceeding 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonias, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, white jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, Chinese trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, orchid cactus, jade plant, jewel leaf plant, mountain lily, Magnolia biondii, Japanese quince, umbrella plant, lantana, red-back eupatorium, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, bleeding heart vine, Guangdong evergreen, Cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander species, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cuttings as rootstock for grafting to propagate white orchids and Michelia; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maples, feather maples, and cloak maples; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old Azalea pulchrum cuttings for cleft grafting to propagate Western azaleas; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior rose varieties; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or use potted rootstock for grafting. In addition, cactus and three-ribbed arrow can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate crab claw orchids.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, Michelia, and red maple; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, and Chinese trumpet creeper.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom on schedule by late September to early October, creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, and begonias.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, transplanting white magnolias after flowering but just before bud break and leaf unfurling gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. To this end, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance such as ferrous sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the water, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower species suitable for acidic water quality mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, rhododendron, Azalea mucronulatum, gardenia, Daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple species, and red-flowered camellia; foliage plants include: sago palm, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, and Schefflera; ornamental fruit plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, fingered citron, lemon, nandina, winter coral, and Ardisia crenata.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: When pruning white orchids shortly after moving them out, special care must be taken because their branch pith is loose, and cut surfaces tend to dry out and die back downward. For this reason, cuts should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and must never be too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese roses, after-flowering pruning should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branches can develop into flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: When removing buds from potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise, the wound may dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese roses potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal buds to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or tree shade. Species include: Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink tassel leaf, fan palm, Syngonium, orchids, rhododendrons, bird of paradise, camellia, and sasanqua. For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be provided, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, and white orchid. Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, water willow, Japanese oak, serissa, Japanese black pine, and soft pine require full light; while Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, red nanmu, Chinese weeping cypress, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Daphne, clivia, orchids, and crabapple, after flowering, remove the spent flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with supplemental phosphorus, once every half month. While restoring their vegetative growth, this also lays the foundation for producing flower buds again. For foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra, and ferns, apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-heart Dracaena fragrans, croton, Caladium, white-butterfly Syngonium, and pink tassel leaf, a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar feed, which can make their leaf colors appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese roses, climbing roses, and rugosa roses, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them. For citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, which often appear on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, fingered citron, lemon, and rue, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Chinese weeping cypress, water willow, galo wood, and ginkgo. It is worth noting that styling must be done carefully and cautiously, trying not to damage the bark or branches, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Handbook (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall of the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers and the vast majority of bonsai that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, care should be taken to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or leggy growth caused by insufficient light, which can disrupt styling or affect normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. Flower care in June, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, sago palm, loquat, and wintersweet. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsules on the mother tree turn from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be harvested. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule and extract the seeds. First soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, at which point sow them in furrows. The soil covering thickness is generally 2 to 3 cm. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most seedlings' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and promptly set up shade.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly with hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia, horned holly, holly, lilac, purple magnolia, Japanese quince, snowball, Chinese snowball, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, and bald cypress. The other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood species, Chinese rose, firethorn, Forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, broom, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, fingered citron, lemon, Buddhist pine, nandina, Chinese trumpet creeper, red-back eupatorium, honeysuckle, hibiscus, Cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, Ardisia crenata, paper bush, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela, Weigela, snowball viburnum, peach coral species, Schefflera species, mahonia species, Japanese aralia, spiraea, hydrangea, and poinsettia. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon, ivy species, nasturtium, cuphea, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonias, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, and sulfur cosmos.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in a 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution. After brief drying, insert into the seedbed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed and cover with plastic film, pressing the edges firmly with mud. Set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at around 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally, after one month the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted wintersweet seedlings as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, Michelia, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf cherry, plum blossom, and elm-leaf plum; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. Cleft grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for cleft grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Azalea pulchrum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball, Chinese snowball, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, and white orchid.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant, Acorus species, and golden-edge lilyturf.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, and amaryllis (sow immediately after collection).

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: wintersweet seeds, after collection, if nursery conditions do not permit, can also be stored dry until the following spring before sowing, without affecting their germination rate; peaches and apricots should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be stratified in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo, then sown in a selected nursery when they germinate.

    2. Transplanting and Potting

    A considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting or potting in June. They are: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and red-green grass.

In summer, large flowering trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese aralia, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood species, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, spraying and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time. It is best at 10 AM or 5 PM. Generally, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, water temperature. The irrigation water should be kept basically consistent with the pot soil temperature. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will cause irritation to the root system and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying. When there are several days without rain, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase the humidity of the local space. If there are continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and spray according to the wetness of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, and begonias. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is sufficient. Deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), ranunculus, and Dutch peony. Under high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither and underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tubers. Watering must be stopped for these, and they should be moved to a cool place, keeping the pot soil from becoming overly dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium, Calathea species, sword fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, Aspidistra, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, Anthurium, red-back eupatorium, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne, rhododendron, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, and firethorn, apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution once every half month. For species currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, crab claw orchid, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Mesembryanthemum, stapelia, and sedum species, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, true cypress, Chinese weeping cypress, water willow, Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, and firethorn, branches affecting the shape should be pruned or shortened early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and well-shaped, and can promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and Chinese rose, spent flowers and withered stems should be promptly removed, and flowering branches should be appropriately shortened to promote lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees and shrubs such as white orchid, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, and crabapple, in order to promote good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or next year, overly vigorous branches should be pinched and buds removed to inhibit the growth of main and side shoots and promote side bud germination.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink tassel leaf, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, Peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, Daphne, Aspidistra, and spider plant. For light-loving flower species, sufficient light must be provided, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese bush cherry, horned holly, holly, water willow, Japanese oak, Japanese black pine, golden five-needle pine, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, and grape. For Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, jade bamboo, five-needle pine, and bamboo-leaf podocarp, appropriate shading can be given.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, Buddhist pine, and crabapple species are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese roses, climbing roses, and rugosa roses are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for prevention and control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, and wintersweet are prone to aphid damage. Promptly select suitable pesticides and spray to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are prone to anthracnose infection. Promptly spray carbendazim and other fungicides for prevention and control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, and fingered citron have tender leaves prone to being chewed by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened off in early spring or grown in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huangshan pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, hall crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, Japanese black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, and firethorn. Styling in June must be careful, with slow wiring and gentle tying. Never be impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Handbook (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the Yangtze-Huai region ends its plum rain season. July 16 is the first day of the dog days, and August 15 is the last day of the dog days. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. Flower management in July mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, Chinese primrose, ornamental kale, and campanula. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, wild peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaf plum can also be picked. After washing off the fruit flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the cleaned stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsules can be stored dry until the following spring, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonias, coleus, Pilea, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch chrysanthemum, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, pepperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum, mother of thousands, and pothos.
    Woody flowering plant species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back eupatorium, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela, snowball viburnum, spiraea, Daphne, gardenia, paper bush, mountain lily, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, firethorn, Cordyline, hibiscus, serissa, Michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese snowball, Tianmu snowball, boxwood species, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, rhododendron species, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, and golden willow. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, some flowering trees can also be propagated by water cutting in July. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, and rose of Sharon. To propagate flowering trees by water cutting, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 to 2 cm thick, perforated for use as cutting fixing material; second, keep the cutting water clean, and add a few pieces of charcoal for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
Use 1-year-old mountain peach or wild peach seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaf plum, purple-leaf plum, and beauty plum; use cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa roses; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate white orchid, Michelia, etc.; use potted 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be determined whether they have survived; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Azalea pulchrum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior cherry blossom varieties; use current-year seedling rootstocks of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or hall crabapple and crabapple flowers for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties; use Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball, oleander, Weigela, broom, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing rose, and winter jasmine.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus species, umbrella plant, Aspidistra, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf species, Reineckea, zephyr lily, sword fern, iris, and inch plant. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, and Mesembryanthemum.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, wild peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaf plum.
    2. Transplanting and Potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers for display during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, and cockscomb.
    Generally, trees are not transplanted in July, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with a soil ball is also feasible, such as mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade must be set up promptly, and the frequency of spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management. Never be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geranium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia, Stapelia gigantea, string of pearls, Senecio, Daphne, crab claw orchid, Portulacaria, and aloe, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the pot soil kept moist, and attention paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it can easily cause root rot and also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, ranunculus, and bleeding heart, in July they show withered aboveground stems and leaves, dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, and overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tubers. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and keep the pot soil not too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, Aglaia, chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, green queen, pink tassel leaf, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, and Chinese rose, not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but appropriate foliar spraying should also be given, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given. Never be negligent. Once the pot soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it can easily cause woody flowering plants to "drop green leaves," or cause decay of nutrient fibrous roots, and even plant death.
For potted plum stumps, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of potted plants slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; it is best to water before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m., so as to prevent too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If there is continuous rainy weather this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain; if water accumulates in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to prevent root rot in the potted plants.
2. Fertilization
In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilization management should be strengthened. The first are species with particularly long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, and Jasminum sambac; the second are species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, Osmanthus fragrans, and Hibiscus mutabilis; the third are species grown in winter for their flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, Nandina domestica, wintersweet, and rhododendron; the fourth are foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, and Ficus elastica. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional assurance for bud formation, flowering, and fruit set; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the application method, applying thin liquid fertilizer as a drench is preferable.
The herbaceous flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened in July include: Salvia splendens (white, purple, pink), Celosia argentea, Callistephus chinensis, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, chrysanthemum, Rudbeckia hirta, Petunia hybrida, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Cymbidium ensifolium, Tagetes erecta, Mirabilis jalapa, and Nemesia strumosa. Woody flowers include: Lagerstroemia indica, pomegranate, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Michelia figo, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Cestrum nocturnum, Chinese rose, begonia species, Brunfelsia pauciflora, Bougainvillea spectabilis, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, Hibiscus syriacus, and Hibiscus mutabilis. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria heterophylla, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta species, Spathiphyllum, Scindapsus, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, and Cordyline fruticosa.
In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, and especially for succulent ornamental plants such as Sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, and Stapelia gigantea, fertilization must be stopped even more firmly, to prevent the plants from rotting.
3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young terminal buds at the tip with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, wintersweet, Pyracantha fortuneana, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Tamarix chinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia viridissima, Celtis sinensis, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Lagerstroemia indica, Serissa japonica, and Murraya paniculata. Pruning means cutting off part of the new shoots with scissors to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form graceful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plants suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Juniperus formosana, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma congesta, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis cv. Shimpaku.
For potted flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, Jasminum sambac, and Chloranthus spicatus, faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the flowered branches should be shortened back as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and a second round of flowering. For rhododendron, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, begonia, wintersweet, and plum blossom, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened back to form a better crown shape.
4. Shading
July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Monstera deliciosa, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, Scindapsus (red/green), Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Maranta species, and Reineckea carnea.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Jasminum sambac, Serissa japonica, Cycas revoluta, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Adina rubella, Xylosma congesta, Pinus densiflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, and Chinese rose. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, Asparagus setaceus, Rhapis humilis, and Pinus parviflora, however, it is necessary to provide appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to providing necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand; this can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' fine nutritional roots.
5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, that are slightly tolerant of dry environments and have strong resistance, such as Ficus elastica, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia fortunei, Cycas revoluta, Araucaria heterophylla, Hibiscus mutabilis, Livistona chinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix canariensis, bromeliads, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera octophylla, Aspidistra elatior, and Aucuba japonica; species such as Nephrolepis cordifolia, Coleus scutellarioides, Spathiphyllum, and Syngonium podophyllum are not suitable. In addition, during care, attention should be paid to combining watering and misting, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected with anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous overcast rain are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, begonia species, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, cherry blossom, and Prunus triloba, it is mostly caused by larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual extraction and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the tree trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate and omethoate should be avoided to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the box tree moth that damages Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens. When this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to damage the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, Buddha's hand, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) The white wax insect that damages Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum sinense, and Fraxinus chinensis has its emergence period from late July to late August. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest damaging Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, Camellia japonica, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, and Cedrus deodara. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. The plant species that can still be shaped are those with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted in spring for acclimatization or planted in the ground. They are: Jasminum nudiflorum, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa japonica, Pinus thunbergii, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, and Adina rubella.
In July, plant shaping must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and not operating hastily or with excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to break the plant's branches or trunk and endanger its survival.
Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual: Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Display in Courtyards
August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the period of high temperature and dry heat second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. The potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among woody flowers, the main ones are: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Pinus armandii, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Lantana camara, Erythrina crista-galli (coral tree), Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera actinophylla, Plumeria rubra, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Nerium oleander, Washingtonia filifera, Trachycarpus fortunei, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ginkgo biloba, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, and Chinese rose. Herbaceous flowers include: Impatiens balsamina, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Salvia splendens, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Begonia maculata, Nemesia strumosa, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Phlox drummondii, Capsicum annuum, Eschscholzia californica, Celosia argentea, Calendula officinalis, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Cosmos sulphureus, Mirabilis jalapa, and Zinnia elegans. In addition, there are Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, and Aglaonema commutatum.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Calycanthus chinensis, Calycanthus floridus, and Podocarpus macrophyllus. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Phoenix canariensis can be sand-stored for germination and then sown in bags. Pomegranate grown for its fruit is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Gypsophila paniculata, Liatris spicata, Petunia hybrida, Antirrhinum majus, Echinacea purpurea, Oxalis species, Achillea millefolium, Tropaeolum majus, and Pyrethrum cinerariifolium. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria herbeohybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Pericallis hybrida, Begonia semperflorens, Primula obconica, Coleus scutellarioides, and Calendula officinalis.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower and tree species can be propagated: Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Erythrina crista-galli, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum plicatum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Ficus elastica, Osmanthus fragrans, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, and Magnolia liliiflora. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be taken of Buxus species, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Nandina domestica, fig, Nerium oleander, Lagerstroemia indica, Serissa japonica, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, and Gardenia jasminoides. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, and Cosmos sulphureus can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft-graft Osmanthus fragrans; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstocks and bud-graft Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedling of wild peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered Prunus japonica, and Prunus triloba; use cherry seedling as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use Rosa multiflora and Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, and Malus hupehensis as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus micromalus and Malus halliana; use Acer palmatum as rootstock and top-graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'; use single-trunk Ficus elastica as rootstock and cleft-graft Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'; use single-petaled camellia as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of Camellia japonica; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft or approach-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate Wisteria floribunda.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: Lonicera japonica, Campsis grandiflora, Rosa banksiae, climbing Chinese rose, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum plicatum, Nerium oleander, Gardenia jasminoides, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Osmanthus species, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, Ficus elastica (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), and Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (air layering).
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Syngonium podophyllum, Dieffenbachia amoena, bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, Scindapsus (red/green), Iris tectorum, Belamcanda chinensis, Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aglaonema commutatum, Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, and Haworthia species. In addition, Lycoris radiata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, and Freesia refracta can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Flowers Planted in Courtyard Ground
1. Transplanting. In August, when some flowering shrubs are transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shade, watering, and misting management should be strengthened after transplanting, which can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Aureovariegata', Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia fortunei, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, rhododendron, Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis ball, Sabina komarovii ball, Buxus ball, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Aucuba japonica, and French holly. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and established, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Celosia argentea, Tagetes patula, and Nemesia strumosa, which can be expected to bloom in September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, roadside hedges in the courtyard such as Buxus, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted ball-shaped plants such as Photinia, Sabina chinensis, Sabina komarovii, Myrica rubra, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, and Ilex chinensis must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flower and tree species that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, and Lantana camara, faded flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be shortened back appropriately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, early chrysanthemum, Tagetes patula, and Tagetes erecta, tip pruning and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and established herbaceous flowers, watering and misting management should be strengthened. For plants with straw ropes tied around their trunks, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Mist more and water cautiously to ensure that the roots do not accumulate water.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Aureovariegata', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Prunus x cistena, Codiaeum variegatum, Acalypha wilkesiana, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', and Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', in order to keep their leaf color vivid for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', flowering pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Dahlia pinnata, and Lantana camara, as well as species about to bloom such as Osmanthus fragrans, chrysanthemum, Hibiscus mutabilis, and Anemone hupehensis, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, and wintersweet, which are in the process of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed as foliar topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on Cedrus deodara, Ligustrum lucidum, Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Lagerstroemia indica, Photinia, and Camellia japonica, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum beetles and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawflies and cotton leafworms that chew rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and Calycanthus chinensis. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, Portulaca grandiflora, Mirabilis jalapa, Phlox drummondii, Eschscholzia californica, and Cerastium tomentosum.
Management of Potted Flowers in Courtyards
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria herbeohybrida, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia masoniana, and Begonia rex, water droplets falling on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera jamesonii (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of Clivia miniata also must not be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and mist more, and inject water into the leaf tanks to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, attention must also be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and misting should be controlled, maintaining only slight moisture in the potting soil, and by misting the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Ficus elastica, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Scindapsus (red/green), Araucaria heterophylla, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Phoenix roebelenii, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Livistona chinensis, Epipremnum aureum, Dracaena fragrans, Yucca elephantipes, Pachira aquatica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Schefflera actinophylla, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Syngonium podophyllum, Dieffenbachia amoena, Dieffenbachia 'Green Queen', Euphorbia pulcherrima, Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Codiaeum variegatum, and Fatsia japonica, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Lagerstroemia indica, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Bougainvillea spectabilis, and Lantana camara, as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Diospyros cathayensis, fruit pomegranate, Nandina domestica, and papaya, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, early chrysanthemum, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Nemesia strumosa, Callistephus chinensis, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn arrives. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Osmanthus fragrans, and rhododendron, apply low-concentration phosphorus-potassium fertilizer as foliar topdressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly mist the leaf surface once after fertilization to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as Clivia miniata, Begonia semperflorens, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Daphne odora, Aloe vera, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Portulacaria afra, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Oxalis triangularis, cacti, and cactus balls, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still intense, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus elastica, Dypsis lutescens, Spathiphyllum, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta species, Scindapsus (red/green), Rhapis excelsa, Epipremnum aureum, Dieffenbachia amoena, Dieffenbachia 'Green Queen', orchids, Calathea roseopicta, Peperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, Chlorophytum comosum, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia reginula, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, begonia species, Dracaena sanderiana, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, and Hosta ventricosa, continue to provide shed shading: pull on the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, and Buxus sinica var. parvifolia. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., shorten back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterflies, rose sawflies, and peach red-necked longhorn beetles. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Platycladus orientalis stump, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma congesta, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Chinese rose, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Agave americana, Lantana camara, Ginkgo biloba, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, and Acer buergerianum. In August, part of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium nobile, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, Zamia furfuracea, Alocasia reginula, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Spathiphyllum, Scindapsus (red/green), Maranta, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Syngonium podophyllum, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, and Fatsia japonica.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film for moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be rice chaff ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia maculata, Gardenia jasminoides, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera carnea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, Jasminum sambac, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, and Michelia figo. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria rubra, Pelargonium, Aglaonema modestum, and Fuchsia hybrida.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and misting balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and misting, which can be before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed can be built with bricks, with 10 cm of wet sand placed inside, and then some potted flowers that are relatively fond of moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Syngonium podophyllum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium podophyllum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, Scindapsus (red/green), and Chloranthus spicatus. Usually misting instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, Fuchsia hybrida, Dendrobium nobile, Anthurium crystallinum, and Alocasia reginula, they can be moved indoors with air conditioning, using misting instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, pomegranate, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora, Wisteria sinensis, Carmona retusa, Adina rubella, Agave americana, and Cycas revoluta, water 1 to 2 times a day and mist 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilization. In August, stop fertilization for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or drench 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flower and tree species grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, bitter orange, Pyracantha fortuneana, Buddha's hand, and kumquat, continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. For Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, and Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, plum blossom, and Acer buergerianum, cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plants' fine nutritional roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma congesta, small Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum quihoui, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, and Pyracantha fortuneana, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For other potted ornamental plants, faded flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to occur on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that frequently appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Manual (September Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Display in Courtyards
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards. Among woody ornamental plant species are: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Cycas media, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Osmanthus fragrans, pomegranate, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Hibiscus mutabilis, Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, Plumeria rubra, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ginkgo biloba, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Trachycarpus fortunei, Chinese rose, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Zamia furfuracea, Picea species, Schefflera octophylla, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa vulgaris, Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Schefflera actinophylla, and Nandina domestica. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, Salvia splendens, early chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Dahlia pinnata, and Nemesia strumosa.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, and Phoenix canariensis. Among them, Aesculus seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing down when sown, and the covering soil should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being appropriate; cover with plastic film or rice straw to retain moisture. Calycanthus chinensis seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for Calycanthus chinensis, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the above seeds must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Dianthus chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, Viola tricolor, Antirrhinum majus, Petunia hybrida, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris tectorum, and Verbena hybrida. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as Cyclamen persicum, Primula malacoides, Tropaeolum majus, Pericallis hybrida, Begonia semperflorens, Gerbera jamesonii, and Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Fuchsia hybrida, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum plicatum, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia pauciflora, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Odontonema strictum, Cyrtanthera carnea, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, and Cordyline fruticosa. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: Buxus species, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum monogynum, Spiraea, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Nandina domestica, fig, Nerium oleander, Serissa japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, and tree peony. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, and cold chrysanthemum.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root segments as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedlings of wild peach, apricot, etc. as rootstocks and bud-graft Prunus triloba, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, and plum blossom; use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock and bag-moistened cleft-graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud-graft kumquat; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and cleft-graft Osmanthus fragrans; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Gardenia jasminoides, Nerium oleander, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Jasminum sambac, Michelia figo, Camellia japonica, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, and Spiraea.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, Sansevieria trifasciata, Syngonium podophyllum, Dieffenbachia amoena, Aglaonema commutatum, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Liriope graminifolia, Aspidistra elatior, and Liriope platyphylla. In addition, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Freesia refracta, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Lycoris radiata, and Scilla peruviana can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Flowers Planted in Courtyard Ground
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided that soil balls are well formed. Species include: Nerium oleander, Sabina chinensis, Michelia figo, Sabina komarovii, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Buxus species, Hypericum monogynum, French holly, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, and Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, misting, and shading management must be strengthened to ensure that transplanting is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be established or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Nemesia strumosa, Celosia argentea, Catharanthus roseus, Cosmos sulphureus, small dahlia, Calendula officinalis, dwarf canna, and early chrysanthemum.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of the year for ball-shaped plants in northern regions during the growing season. Courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: Buxus species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', and Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana'. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Sabina chinensis, Sabina komarovii, Buxus, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, and Forsythia viridissima. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tip-pruned and pinched include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Cosmos sulphureus, Kochia scoparia, Tagetes erecta, and Tagetes patula. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and the formation of more inflorescences on lateral shoots, and stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, Lagerstroemia indica, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, and Bougainvillea spectabilis, promptly cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and appropriately shorten back the flowered branches, which can effectively promote reflowering.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, mist the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, mist the crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers in succession, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.
4. Fertilization. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants such as Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Acalypha wilkesiana, Prunus x cistena, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, and red-leaf peach, in order to keep their leaf color fresh and vivid at all times, appropriately apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flower and tree species that bloom continuously or are grown in autumn for flowers and fruit, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Calamondin, flowering pomegranate, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Hibiscus mutabilis, chrysanthemum, Canna, Dahlia pinnata, Lantana camara, Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Ardisia crenata, and kumquat, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, Osmanthus fragrans 'Yingui', and Osmanthus fragrans 'Dangui' that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that damages Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha fortuneana, and begonia, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle that damages Lagerstroemia indica, papaya, and begonia, insert poison sticks at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control at the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Magnolia sieboldii, Michelia figo, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, and Magnolia grandiflora. In addition, there are Aesculus species, Lagerstroemia indica, Syringa, begonia species, Cercis chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Taxus chinensis, and Calycanthus nitens. Seeds of Magnoliaceae, Taxus chinensis, Aesculus, and begonia species must be stored in wet sand until early the following spring after treatment, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: Tagetes erecta, Zinnia elegans, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia argentea, Catharanthus roseus, Helichrysum bracteatum, and Callistephus chinensis. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of Potted Flowers in Courtyards
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month, water or mist once each in the morning and afternoon; in the second half of the month, change to watering once, and appropriately mist the leaf surface. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by leaf surface misting. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic environments, add a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilization. In September, it is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, and fertilization management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota mitis, Epipremnum aureum, Scindapsus (red/green), Dieffenbachia amoena, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, and Ficus lyrata, still mainly use low-concentration thin fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with particularly long flowering periods or whose peak flowering period is autumn, such as Chinese rose, Lantana camara, Lantana camara, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', and Osmanthus fragrans; fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, papaya, Diospyros cathayensis, Callicarpa, and fruit pomegranate; and colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', bromeliads, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, and Coleus scutellarioides, apply fertilizer types with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra, Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, and Epiphyllum hybridum that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the stage of flower bud enlargement, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, Michelia figo, and rhododendron, low-concentration fertilizer types with balanced nutrition can be applied; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, chrysanthemum, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, and dwarf sunflower, apply thin fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is relatively high and the sunlight is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving and cool-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Dieffenbachia amoena, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', orchids, Calathea roseopicta, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Aspidistra elatior, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Scindapsus (red/green), Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia reginula, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Odontonema strictum, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris multifida 'Variegata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia picta, Spathiphyllum, Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, Dieffenbachia amoena, and Dracaena sanderiana, through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chinese rose, Xylosma congesta, and Fraxinus chinensis, full sunlight can be given; for shade-loving species such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, and kumquat, appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent wilting of the plants and affect their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue with bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Zhulan (Chloranthus spicatus), bougainvillea, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, and Justicia carnea, prune after each flowering; for those bonsai tree species that tolerate pruning, sprout readily, and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Syzygium buxifolium, small-leaved privet (Ligustrum quihoui), Adina rubella, Chinese box (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (as trunk), juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis), continue pruning or pinching buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) appearing on potted plants of plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, and ornamental peach, poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, and felt scale appearing on potted flowering plants, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air, and only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowering plants with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese black pine (Jin Song pine), red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, trident maple, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex chinensis), wintersweet, ornamental pomegranate, Chinese box, Chinese arborvitae (as trunk), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese ash, banyan, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, Agave americana, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Podocarpus macrophyllus, prickly elm (Ulmus davidiana), Serissa japonica, firethorn, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, fuchsia, and Fittonia verschaffeltii; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dendrocnide stimulans, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', and Schefflera octophylla. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-mouth flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half chaff ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Zhulan, jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, and Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen'. Schefflera octophylla, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, and Aglaonema modestum can also be water-cuttings indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium podophyllum, Zhulan, and bromeliads, they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and normally spraying water instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, they should also be sprayed more and watered less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, spray at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and be careful that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature; add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually recovering from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted bonsai, apply a diluted liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering plants mainly for flower and fruit appreciation, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Zhulan, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), firethorn, finger citron (Citrus medica 'Fingered'), and kumquat, continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, and chrysanthemum, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced multi-element compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium according to different species. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an unusual odor, especially not a foul smell; when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade nets to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Chinese box, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (as trunk), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), small-leaved privet, and Chinese ash, pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering plants, dead branches, yellow leaves, and spent flowers and stems should also be removed promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering plants are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, and Sabina chinensis bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, and longevity peach, continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects damaging Camellia japonica, firethorn, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), whitebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), spruce species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Dutch iron (Yucca), Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, osmanthus, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Schefflera octophylla, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), golden larch (Pseudolarix kaempferi), Croton variegatus, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, Caryota mitis, Areca palm, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, South American cycad (Zamia furfuracea), Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dendrocnide stimulans, Murraya paniculata, and Nandina domestica. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), Canna generalis, dahlia, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, begonia (Begonia maculata), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), French marigold (Tagetes patula), African marigold (Tagetes erecta), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), petunia, and Impatiens hawkeri. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species (Aesculus), Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, French holly (Viburnum awabuki), Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, privet (Ligustrum lucidum), small-leaved privet, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Weigela florida, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), and pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens). Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the other species can be cleaned and stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the following spring before sowing. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva sylvestris), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold, snapdragon, Dianthus species, pansy (Viola tricolor), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), dwarf catchfly (Silene gallica), tall catchfly (Silene armeria), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), daisy (Bellis perennis), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), iris, and verbena. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), petunia, cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), Primula obconica, African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Lantana camara, firethorn, Mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia, Aucuba, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Zhulan, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', gardenia, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Chinese rose, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander (Nerium oleander), fig, and Chaenomeles speciosa. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flower cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, African marigold, wax begonia (Begonia cucullata), Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Sanchezia nobilis, and winter chrysanthemum. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Jin Song pine; use peony roots as rootstock to graft excellent varieties of tree peony; use 1-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use 1-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft excellent varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia × soulangeana, and red-flowered magnolia; use triangular cactus (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, plum blossom, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'August', snowball (Viburnum opulus var. sterile), Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, Michelia, Spiraea thunbergii, and Spiraea japonica.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, double-flowered Kerria japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea, and sago palm. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, hosta (Hosta plantaginea), Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Nephrolepis cordifolia, and Aspidistra elatior. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), amaryllis (Hippeastrum), freesia, Lycoris radiata, tulip, and Scilla peruviana.

Management of courtyard field-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent when leaves have fallen, such as Hibiscus syriacus, redbud (Cercis chinensis), Amygdalus triloba, pomegranate, lilac (Syringa), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, and Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum'. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis, Chinese juniper, golden-edged compact Chinese arborvitae, Osmanthus fragrans 'Sijigui', gardenia, Euonymus japonicus, Chinese box, and Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, when transplanting, first, shorten and prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and spraying management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala), pansy, pot marigold, verbena, Phlox drummondii, snapdragon, rain lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), and Reineckea carnea. Bulbous flower species that can be field-planted include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip, and hyacinth.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and topiary balls in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, golden-edged compact Chinese arborvitae, golden-edged Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus, Chinese box, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, and small-leaved privet. Topiary balls that need pruning include: Chinese juniper, box, bayberry (Myrica rubra), Chinese holly, wintergreen, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, and firethorn. For continuously flowering field-planted flowers in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Lantana camara, and bougainvillea, continue to cut off spent flowers and stems, and moderately shorten the flowering branches. For field-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, African marigold, and globe amaranth, promptly cut off opened inflorescences to encourage lateral shoots to continue producing and opening flowers, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying; first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no standing water; second, continue to spray water on the leaves. In addition, newly planted herbaceous flowers should also be sprayed to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For field-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for osmanthus that has already flowered, open a ring-shaped trench and bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, Camellia japonica, Michelia, plum blossom, and wintersweet that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina and firethorn in the fruit-viewing stage, as well as finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, and golden bullet (Diospyros armata) in the south, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on field-planted plum blossom, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', cherry blossom, and crabapple, continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, horse chestnut, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, pond cypress, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, French holly, camphor tree, privet, small-leaved privet, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, Taxus chinensis, and Camellia oleifera; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, Liriodendron chinense, red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), Cryptomeria japonica, Chinese tallow tree (Triadica sebifera), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), cotton rose, Choerospondias axillaris, redbud, camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), Bischofia polycarpa, and Acer elegantulum. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, African marigold, French marigold, China aster, impatiens, four-o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), Kochia scoparia, strawflower (Xerochrysum bracteatum), cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), painted euphorbia (Euphorbia heterophylla), sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica), and telegraph plant (Codariocalyx motorius).

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them in the following spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Green Giant', and red ruby (Philodendron tuxla), on sunny days water once a day, supplemented by leaf spraying; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species such as calla lily, cyclamen, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, geranium, and fuchsia, increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and spray more water to help the flower buds expand. In northern regions, for flower species that are relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering to accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them overwinter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn turns cool, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Clivia miniata, cyclamen, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Nandina, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Ardisia crenata, and golden bullet, apply a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Emerald Queen', Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), and Peperomia species, shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first prune off dead branches and leaves, diseased and pest-infested branches, and weak branches; for leggy branches, carry out severe shortening; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing dead branches and leaves.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Prune off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetles, leaf-miner moth larvae, inchworms, and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air, and only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Jin Song pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, Adina rubella, Chinese ash, Fujian tea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), Chinese box, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Ficus microcarpa var. crassifolia, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, Lantana camara, tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), and red maple. Some cold-sensitive southern flower species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoors at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, and Oncidium. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Areca palm, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dendrocnide stimulans, and Schefflera octophylla. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouth large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half chaff ash and half wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small amount of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, Aucuba, Michelia, jasmine, Zhulan, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Chinese hibiscus, finger citron, Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen', Epipremnum aureum, and geranium.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, and jasmine, water once a day, supplemented by leaf spraying; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, and Belgian azalea, watering should not be excessive, and spraying water on branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Syngonium podophyllum, Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, and Epipremnum aureum, spraying should be the main method and watering supplementary, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species recovering from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, bromeliads, and Cymbidium sinense, apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean (Fortunella), lemon, Nandina, golden bullet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, and winter coral, continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Zhulan, and jasmine, apply 1 to 2 times diluted phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; especially for shallow-pot bonsai, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on sunny days they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. Shade nets set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (as trunk), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, and Chinese ash, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can be untied first; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, they can be re-bound at a different position for winding and fixing, which can avoid serious damage to the plant from excessively deep constriction marks. For general potted flowers and trees, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana, appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November)

    Weather characteristics of November: this month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, and the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, while the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects: first, pruning and cleaning field-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic greenhouses, effectively do a good job of cold and freeze protection. The main contents of flower management this month are as follows.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), cyclamen, African daisy, Clivia miniata, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), and hosta.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, small-leaved privet, privet, camphor tree, pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, Photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. The main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection are: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', plum blossom (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Chinese rose (referring to easy-rooting varieties such as floribunda rose and Elizabeth), and Chaenomeles speciosa.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Chinese elm, and Serissa japonica. Some of these root cuttings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by dense cuttings in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses in November include: Chinese box, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Silver Edge', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia, and Serissa japonica 'Aureum'. If managed properly, they can grow a complete root system in the following spring and can be used for field planting to cultivate topiary balls for greening. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be used to propagate Begonia maculata, Begonia rex, Begonia nelumbiifolia, geranium, Chinese hibiscus, fuchsia, jade plant (Crassula ovata), Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, and shrimp plant, which can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until spring of the following year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple and feather maple indoors; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); use thick branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock-scion, and use branches of excellent varieties of Chinese rose as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent Chinese rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaved gardenia, pomegranate, Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, osmanthus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, blue star juniper (Juniperus squamata), Michelia, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, and Spiraea thunbergii.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena (Miscanthus), Hypericum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia, Buddleja lindleyana, tree peony, Caragana sinica, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Zhulan, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), and Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf'.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and Canna generalis can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided, and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliads, Liriope muscari, Reineckea carnea, rain lily, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, and Bryophyllum pinnatum.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, African marigold, and Abelmoschus manihot.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Japanese false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), silk tree, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), camptotheca, eucommia (Eucommia ulmoides), red-twig dogwood (Cornus alba), Chinese tallow tree, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana sinica, and Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species whose seeds can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, small-leaved privet, palm, camphor tree, pencil cedar, Sapindus mukorossi, Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, and Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock).

   2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, and ornamental kale.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor tree, Magnolia grandiflora, silk tree, Sapindus mukorossi, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow tree, Magnolia denudata, osmanthus, red maple, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', plum blossom, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden (Tilia), giant redbud (Cercis gigantea), Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia × soulangeana, papaya, and crabapple. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches pruned, and a good soil ball should be carried and the trunk bound. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree body.

    In November, plum bonsai, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic greenhouses to force flowering, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic greenhouses to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic greenhouses, or rooms, the amount of watering in November is based on keeping the potting soil moist as the specific standard, and it must not be too wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary leaf spraying.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, and cineraria, as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, Nandina, winter coral, and Ardisia crenata, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed frequently to facilitate the expansion and growth of flower buds and make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic greenhouses, greenhouses, and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed frequently to keep the leaf color green and glossy at all times. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Croton variegatus, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to excessively low water temperature, which would affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Western azalea, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Daphne odora, cineraria, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia miniata, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), and Vriesea, continue to apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic greenhouses, stop topdressing to help them enter normal dormancy for overwintering. For most field-planted flowers and trees, such as crabapple species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia × soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, Spiraea, osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, Sapindus mukorossi, silk tree, palm, red maple, tree peony, Forsythia viridissima, peony, and Hypericum, bury dry cake fertilizer, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can use less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and topiary balls that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, apply base fertilizer.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, carry out all-round shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm, Fujian tea, Sageretia thea, trident maple, oak (Quercus), Chinese ash, firethorn, Serissa japonica, Chinese juniper, Podocarpus macrophyllus, wintersweet, and crabapple, laying a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

For field-planted or potted Chinese rose that has not yet been pruned, prune each plant by retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cutting off the remaining old stems from their base, and cutting off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned field-planted crape myrtle, carry out severe shortening of current-year branches, retaining only 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, and cutting off all other current-year branches, so as to promote more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flowerbeds, along streets, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, Hibiscus syriacus, osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree (Platanus orientalis), Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia viridissima, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, Pittosporum tobira, and crabapple, cut off all distorted branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, and diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately shorten leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, thick palm trees can be stripped of their brown fibers, and the trunk cleaned, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flower and tree species that are not very sensitive to cold, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina, Araucaria heterophylla, jasmine, Michelia alba, Zhulan, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, and Rhapis excelsa, they can be placed in plastic greenhouses, as long as the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata, Croton variegatus, Sanchezia nobilis, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) ruby, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Cymbidium faberi, they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is not lower than 10°C, or protected for overwintering with double-layer plastic greenhouses.

For relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, Chinese box, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, five-needle pine, blue star juniper (Juniperus squamata), Chinese juniper, trident maple, and red maple, they can be directly buried together with the flower pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, additional film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic greenhouses, greenhouses, or rooms in November, in addition to ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, causing flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it is also easy to cause leaf and fruit drop. During ventilation, care should also be taken never to let plants be directly exposed to cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, Camellia japonica, and chrysanthemum, collect and burn the fallen leaves under the plants, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases in the coming year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dry-trunk and split-trunk bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dry and split parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the bonsai.

For whiteflies and scale insects appearing on potted flowers and trees placed in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses (they may occur on bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, orchid, camellia, Clivia miniata, and Aspidistra elatior), first, wipe them off with a wet cloth; second, spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azalea placed in plastic greenhouses, stop spraying leaf fertilizer, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    Bonsai plant species suitable for shaping in November mainly include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, blue star juniper (Juniperus squamata), Chinese juniper, Juniperus squamata 'Blue Star', Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Euonymus alatus, Serissa japonica, plum blossom, Corylopsis sinensis, oak (Quercus), Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese box, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Chinese elm, and Malus halliana.

For bonsai trunks that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deeper constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, bougainvillea, Adina rubella, firethorn, and Elaeagnus pungens, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch breaking, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burying and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For tree stumps that have been cultivated and shaped for 1 to 2 years and are basically formed, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches of the stump, select a suitable pot and repot them, and pair them with fist stones and spread moss, so they can be used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum bonsai, Podocarpus macrophyllus, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc., in November, select suitable pots and pot them well, strengthen water management, and they can be used for display in squares, parks, and auditoriums in the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, the vast majority of our country enters winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across the country, temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, and heavy frost occurs frequently. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects of work: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have been moved into greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and homes; second, do a good job of pruning and cleaning open-ground flowers and trees and of turning the soil and applying fertilizer; third, do a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, and so on; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors as soon as collected or stratified in sand to promote germination include: rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo, coralberry, holly species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Chinese photinia, and so on.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lü'e'); rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cut with a heel), spiraea, boxwood species, and so on. Among these, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, echeveria, purslane tree, kalanchoe, longevity flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, wax begonia, cane begonia, Rieger begonia, chloranthus, jasmine, bleeding heart vine, lantana, schefflera, daphne, pothos, cordyline, and so on. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, mahonia, hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae, serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, and three-pronged maple, and so on. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, grape, and so on can be cut and stored in sand for cutting in the following spring.

    3. Grafting. Superior plum blossom cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings grown that year from apricot, fruiting plum, peach, and so on; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain spacing between plants and rows, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; be careful that water does not seep into the union when watering, cover with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft superior rose cultivars; or use healthy branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose scions onto the upper end, then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion sections into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the union, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and heat, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with a bag to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, michelia, chaenomeles, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, bridal wreath spiraea, Chinese snowball viburnum, spiraea, pomegranate, and so on.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, sacred bamboo, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Liriope, Rohdea japonica, kalanchoe, and Chinese evergreen. When cutting off offsets from the base of a large variegated bromeliad for division, they must be small plants that have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the separated offsets are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: heavenly bamboo, hypericum, mahonia, chaenomeles, broadleaf lady palm, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm, and dwarf white-striped bamboo, and so on.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia species, globe amaranth species, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, clivia, and so on. Clivia seeds should be sown as soon as collected.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, coralberry, holly species, camphor tree, and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification to promote germination; only after the seeds crack and show white in the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, pansy, and so on, and can be used for street displays in the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, pagoda tree, weeping pagoda tree, and so on. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, holly, and so on. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main leader and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, carry a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering plants that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, chaenomeles, and hall crabapple. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower-forcing treatment, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped narcissus, and so on should continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can cause them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freeze damage, such as asparagus fern, asparagus cochinchinensis, aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, broadleaf lady palm, heavenly bamboo, michelia, coralberry, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo palm, dwarf white-striped bamboo, sago palm, and so on.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, chloranthus, cypress vine palm, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 10°C, such as croton, caladium, peperomia, maranta, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, fittonia, bromeliad species, pink lady leaf, poinsettia, large-flowered Cymbidium, bleeding heart vine, gold-bracted flower, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, inside well-sealed double-layer tunnels they must also be appropriately heated; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, red juniper, water columbine, Chinese holly, and Chinese white wax, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C they generally will not suffer freeze damage; in especially cold weather, additionally cover with plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants must, in addition to maintaining an indoor temperature suited to them, also be given attention for ventilation and air exchange; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to provide ventilation and air exchange, so as to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating and exchanging air, care must also be taken not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and homes, the degree of watering should be to keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is on the low side and too much water is given, it is very easy to cause root rot in the plants. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate leaf-surface spraying can be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, longevity flower, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange, lemon, fingered citron, calamondin, kumquat, winter coral, coralberry, and heavenly bamboo, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf-surface spraying must also be given, so as to favor the swelling of flower buds and also increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, the potting soil should be kept moist and leaf-surface spraying should also be given, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for relatively less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink lady leaf, arrowhead vine, maranta, croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature has already approached the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December is best during the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, avoiding adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, frequent inspections should be made and supplementary watering given in a timely manner; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriate leaf-surface spraying can be given around noon to prevent leaves from shrinking and dropping.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, and so on placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering plants, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, manglietia, michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, tree peony, forsythia, hypericum, grape, rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, heavenly bamboo, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress species, dragon-claw pagoda tree, elm-leaved spirea, dwarf flowering cherry, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, rose of Sharon, and so on, while turning the garden soil in December, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, with types such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, bromeliad species, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, chaenomeles, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud setting and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and topiary ball shapes that were not finished being pruned in November; hedge and green wall types such as privet, small-leaf privet, Chinese privet, large-leaf boxwood, Chinese juniper, four-season osmanthus, and Chinese photinia; ball shapes such as Chinese holly, Chinese bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper; while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For open-ground flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, London plane, plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root system.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Chinese holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak, Chinese white wax, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be carried out together with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, for the former use triazolone or thiophanate-methyl for timely control, and for the latter use thiophanate-methyl for control.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, fingered citron, sago palm, camellia, and aspidistra, first wipe them once with a rag, then use pesticides such as profenofos for control.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground flowers and trees such as pittosporum, osmanthus, London plane, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale; at this time, use higher-concentration pesticides such as profenofos, quinalphos, and buprofezin for spraying and killing, and phytotoxicity is rarely produced.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the need for raising seedlings and mixing potting soil next year, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and so on into water vats or water tanks, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, and so on in alternate layers with garden soil, set fire to burn them, and form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure, and pigeon droppings with garden soil for composting, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and mixing potting soil in the coming year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find an empty space or a spot under tree shade and compost as much potting soil as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers in the coming spring. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer; among these, the garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, and after thoroughly mixing them, cover with plastic film; they can also be piled indoors, and after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cutting, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for garden plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and so on can be applied before turning the soil; do not make beds for the time being, and after overwintering and freezing clods, in the early spring of the following year open furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, Chinese arborvitae, soft cypress, oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water columbine, Chinese holly, holly, winged spindle, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana sinica, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, chaenomeles, hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxwood, pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese white wax, oak, and so on.

For bonsai plants fixed in shape with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing time has already been one year, or if obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the original binding material should be removed and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for hanging, tying, and training.

For field-planted shaped plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, and so on, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used for display in public places or homes in the coming year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree-stump bonsai, careful management must be carried out: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from causing artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; third, prevent plants planted on rockery from being frozen to death or dried to death. They can be placed in locations that do not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "Sanjiu" period, and most of our country enters a severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month's flower care, most importantly, is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, and so on in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and homes; next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, cleaning up dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the soil, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, and so on. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: rose ('Elizabeth'), heavenly bamboo, coralberry, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Chinese photinia, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow, goldenrain tree, and so on.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as 'Lü'e' and 'Gongfen'), red-leaf plum, rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, three-pronged maple, hypericum, forsythia, spiraea, winter jasmine, and Jasminum officinale, and so on. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, jade leaf, jade tree, echeveria, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, Pilea cadierei, mirror grass, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, bleeding heart vine, schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, red-backed excoecaria, Chinese evergreen, pothos, cordyline, and so on. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela florida, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, fig, and so on can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum blossom cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, plant them buried on the seedbed and cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft and propagate calamondin, kumquat, and so on; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft superior rose cultivars, use the rose 'Elizabeth' cultivar as rootstock scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, chaenomeles, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, bridal wreath spiraea, spiraea, pomegranate, and red maple, and so on.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, sacred bamboo, autumn zephyr lily, pink zephyr lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Chinese evergreen, kalanchoe, bromeliad species, small taro orchid, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe, and so on. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: heavenly bamboo, hypericum, mahonia, chaenomeles, broadleaf lady palm, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, three-pronged maple, boxwood, and purple magnolia, and so on.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown as soon as collected; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of heavenly bamboo, firethorn, holly species, and coralberry can be picked; after treatment, carry out sand stratification to promote germination, and only after the seed grains crack and show white can sowing be carried out.

    In January, sand-stored seeds should be checked frequently, including magnolia species, michelia species, photinia species, holly species, and so on, to see whether the seed grains have become moldy; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out and rubbed and washed again, and clean fine sand must be replaced for storage again; if the seed grains are found to be dry, supplementary spraying should be given in a timely manner; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, sowing must be carried out immediately, and plastic film or rice straw, pine needles, and so on should be added to preserve heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, in regions that are not too cold, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy, and so on; in relatively colder regions, seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose, and so on can be potted and first placed in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for displays in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, red-flowered spiraea, three-pronged maple, rose, pagoda tree, and dragon-claw pagoda tree, and so on. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree, Chinese privet, and so on, except in special circumstances, this month transplanting should generally be moved earlier to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, after transplanting carry out heavy cutback and strengthen cold protection and watering management after transplanting, and it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the process of forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and winged spindle, and so on; for evergreen tree stumps, such as heavenly bamboo, cat's thorn, Chinese holly, holly, and oak, heavy cutback must be carried out and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, shallow burial and high mounding should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can endure, create for them a special environment for safe overwintering, either in a greenhouse, or in a plastic tunnel, or at home, or buried and planted in open ground. In simple plastic tunnels where the temperature is not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, asparagus cochinchinensis, aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, broadleaf lady palm, heavenly bamboo, aucuba, michelia, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, coralberry, daphne, sago palm, acorus, bamboo palm, and dwarf white-striped bamboo, and so on. In double-layer plastic tunnels where the temperature is not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia alba, cypress vine palm, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and lantana, and so on. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, caladium, arrowhead vine, maranta, bromeliad species, peperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, fittonia, red (green) gem, giant green, green emperor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, money tree, South American cycad, desert rose, pink lady leaf, poinsettia, gold-bracted flower, and coral flower, and so on; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and only after the temperature turns warmer may the straw curtains stop being added. On very cold days, inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel should be strengthened, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning, and fire and electricity must not be cut off, otherwise it is very easy to cause freeze damage to the plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, Chinese holly, holly, and Chinese white wax, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur; when encountering particularly cold weather, additionally cover with plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, in addition to maintaining an air temperature suited to them, ventilation and air exchange work should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to provide ventilation and air permeability, so as to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating and exchanging air, also try as much as possible to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each process of cold air moving south; if broken glass, torn film, and so on are found, timely plugging and repair should be carried out, so as to avoid potted flowers suffering freeze damage. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, careful inspection should also be carried out, and no leaking gas or smoke should enter the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, so as to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage and so on.

In order to force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamp), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, chaenomeles, hall crabapple, winter jasmine, and so on can also be placed in plastic tunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, and the lighting time appropriately increased, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped narcissus, freesia, and so on already placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthening water and fertilizer management can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for the watering management of potted flowers, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause the plants to drop leaves, rot roots, or die. The watering time is best arranged during the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering; for most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and homes, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, watering should be correspondingly reduced; when the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and leaf-surface spraying given. For the vast majority of foliage plants, the potting soil should be kept moist and attention should also be paid to giving leaf-surface spraying, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for relatively less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink lady leaf, arrowhead vine, maranta, and croton, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature that the plant can endure, the amount of watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, longevity flower, and pot marigold, and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn, bitter orange, fingered citron, lemon, coralberry, kumquat, kumquat, winter coral, and so on, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, so as to favor the swelling of flower buds and also increase the bright colors of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and timely supplementary watering should be given to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, frequent inspections should be made and timely supplementary watering given; especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriate leaf-surface spraying should also be given around noon, so as to prevent leaves from shrinking and dropping due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, manglietia, michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, schima, machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, tree peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan fir, deodar cedar, pagoda tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, heavenly bamboo, purple bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, and so on, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, fertilizer such as cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, laying a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-cupped narcissus, chaenomeles, hyacinth, tulip, multicolored bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, and Christmas cactus, continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, so as to favor plant growth and bud setting and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, and so on placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls, and ball shapes not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, London plane, Chinese tallow, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palm, and grape, continue pruning; after pruning is completed, then bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root systems, to meet the needs of their spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning and supplemented by wiring, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, oak, Chinese white wax, water columbine, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, and Chinese juniper, continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum blossom species, elm-leaved spirea species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, and so on that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles and so on, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, and so on, gather them and burn them in a concentrated way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, London plane, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, and photinia, use high-concentration profenofos, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, and so on for spraying and killing, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in the current year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing at the same time on plants such as bitter orange, fingered citron, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a wet cloth to wipe away the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and so on into water tanks or water vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches, fallen leaves, and so on in layers with garden soil, set fire to burn them, and make burned soil by oneself, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken manure, and pigeon droppings with garden soil for composting and fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for mixing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet turned and reclaimed in December, seize the time in early January to carry out plowing; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, soil and miscellaneous fertilizer, and so on; after overwintering and freezing clods, in early spring open furrows and make beds, for use in sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese arborvitae, ginkgo, boxwood, soft cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water columbine, Caragana sinica, wintersweet, winged spindle, banyan, and wisteria, and so on. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors only after spring returns and the weather warms, as this favors the healing of parts that may have been injured during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and so on, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and wiring and training carried out again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant's fibrous roots, which can also cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate, and also prevent plants planted on small rocks from dying after freezing; they should be placed in locations that do not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.