How to grow Caladium? Cultivation methods and precautions, avoid waterlogging and strong light
Caladium is a highly ornamental plant with rich and very varied leaf colors, which is why it is loved by many people. Many people want to grow one at home, so how do you grow Caladium? What are the cultivation methods and precautions for Caladium? Below, the editor will walk you through it.
I. How to grow Caladium: understand its habits
To know how to grow Caladium, we first need to understand the growth habits of this plant. It prefers a warm and humid environment but is not cold-tolerant, so when growing it in winter you must pay attention to cold protection. In addition, there are many other points to note. The details are introduced below, so let's continue reading.
II. Caladium cultivation methods and precautions
1. Soil selection: high looseness is required
When growing Caladium, we first need to choose the soil. This is the first step and the step that lays the foundation. Generally, it is best to choose relatively loose leaf mold or peat soil. These types of soil have good drainage and air permeability, allowing it to grow better. It is best not to choose soil that is too dry or too wet, as this is not conducive to its growth. If the humidity is too high, it can also easily cause its rhizomes to rot.
2. Fertilization requirements: mainly nitrogen fertilizer
Among the Caladium cultivation methods and precautions, fertilization is a very important step. Especially after entering the growth period, its demand for fertilizer is very high, and it basically needs fertilizing once a week. In terms of fertilizer selection, we generally use a combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers, but nitrogen fertilizer should be the main one. Also, before fertilizing, we must pay attention to diluting it, otherwise it is very easy to burn the plant.
3. Watering requirements: control the amount of watering / avoid waterlogging
Spring and summer are the peak growing seasons for Caladium, so we need to keep its soil moist and water frequently so that it can grow better. However, when watering, we need to control the amount. Once the soil has a certain degree of moisture, we can stop watering. Remember not to water too much, because if waterlogging occurs, it can easily cause root rot.
4. Light requirements: avoid strong light
Caladium is a plant that prefers a semi-shaded environment, so when growing it, it is best not to place it under strong light, otherwise it can easily scorch the plant. We can place it in a spot with scattered sunlight, so that it will neither fail to receive light nor be harmed by light that is too strong.
5. Temperature management: 20-30°C
Among the Caladium cultivation methods and precautions, ambient temperature is also a point that needs attention. The environment suitable for its growth is between 20-30°C, so when growing it you can appropriately manage the temperature. This plant is not very cold-tolerant, and the ambient temperature where it grows should preferably not be lower than 10°C, otherwise it can easily cause its leaves to turn yellow.
6. Regular pruning: sterilize tools first
During the growth of Caladium, leggy growth sometimes occurs. At this time, we need to prune it. This can not only maintain its plant shape but also promote branching, so it will look fuller. However, before pruning, we need to sterilize the pruning tools first to avoid carrying bacteria that could infect the plant.
7. Pest and disease control: treat promptly
In the process of growing Caladium, if it is not grown properly, problems such as pests and diseases can easily occur. These problems are extremely harmful to the plant, so we must deal with them promptly. For specific treatment methods, you can refer to the article on Caladium pest and disease control. The editor will not introduce them in too much detail here.
What are the taboos of growing flowers in summer? Key points and precautions for summer flower care
The hot summer is coming soon. In summer, the climate is hot and rainfall increases. This is exactly the vigorous period of growth and development for most flowers, and also a good time for cutting flowers and trees. But this season is also a period when pests and diseases occur in large numbers, so flower care needs to be even more meticulous.
1. Sun protection
Sun protection can both reduce sun exposure and lower temperature. According to the different habits of flowers, place them in corresponding locations.
① Foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, and Epipremnum aureum should be placed in semi-shaded, ventilated places; flowering and bulbous plants such as Rhododendron, Camellia, Calla lily, Hippeastrum, and Clivia should be placed in cool, ventilated places.
② Succulent plants such as cactus, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum, Kalanchoe, as well as wintersweet, pomegranate, hibiscus, and Chinese rose should be placed in places with ample sunlight and good air circulation.
③ In rooms facing east to west, flowers can be placed on the east balcony or windowsill for care, avoiding strong light and high-temperature steaming in the afternoon. In rooms facing north to south, flowers can be placed on the north balcony or windowsill for care, reducing light intensity.
You can also set up a sunshade on the balcony or in the courtyard, using plastic film as a shade net on top, which gives a good shading effect. When planting flowers in the courtyard, be sure to raise the bottom of the pots to facilitate drainage and ventilation.
2. Cooling and humidifying
High temperatures are unfavorable for flower growth. Generally, when the temperature is 35-40°C, flowers stop growing; when the temperature reaches above 45°C, flowers will face danger. In summer, when high temperatures persist, the air is dry, and the water absorption capacity of the flower roots is greatly weakened, you can cool and humidify them.
① Frequently spray water mist on the leaves and stems of potted flowers, and sprinkle water on the ground around the potted flowers. According to measurements, after sprinkling water, the ground temperature can immediately drop by 1-5°C, and after spraying water on the leaf surface, the leaf surface temperature can drop by 1-2°C within a few minutes.
② Build a sand trough in a corner of the balcony. Use bricks to enclose an area, spread coarse sand 3-5 cm thick inside, place the flowers on top, and sprinkle water on the sand surface 2-3 times a day to create a relatively cool and humid microclimate.
③ Place a wooden board over a water pool filled with cool water, put the flowers on the wooden board, and add enough cool water to the pool every day to help increase humidity and lower temperature.
④ For flowers placed indoors, a humidifier can also be used to cool and humidify.
3. Safe summering for dormant flowers
Flowers that prefer warmth and coolness enter dormancy or semi-dormancy during the high-temperature period in summer, such as Cyclamen, Fuchsia, Calla lily, Caladium, Epiphyllum, and Begonia semperflorens. Various measures should be taken to help them safely pass the summer.
① Control temperature. Avoid direct strong light, and after summer begins place dormant flowers in cool, ventilated places. When the temperature is high, it is necessary to frequently spray water on the plants and the ground to lower the temperature.
② Control water amount. Keep the potting soil slightly moist as appropriate. Watering too much and keeping the potting soil wet for a long time can easily cause root rot, while watering too little can easily cause root shrinkage.
③ Stop fertilizing. Dormant flowers consume very few nutrients for growth, and fertilizing can easily cause root rot or even death.
For bulbous flowers such as Cyclamen, hyacinth, and tulip, after the aboveground stems and leaves wither, the bulbs can be dug up and stored in a cool, ventilated, dry, rain-sheltered place.
4. Pruning and shaping
In summer, flowers grow too vigorously, so it is necessary to promptly remove buds, shorten overly long branches, and thin out overly dense branches.
The taboos for flower care in summer are as follows:
(1) Avoid high temperature, high humidity, and poor ventilation
Indoor ventilation is relatively poor, and combined with high temperature and high humidity, pests and diseases are prone to occur, affecting appearance and growth, and even causing death. Indoor ventilation should be strengthened, and you can also regularly spray 1000 times diluted thiophanate-methyl solution or 1000 times diluted Mie Jun Qing solution for control.
(2) Avoid too weak light. In summer, if curtains are closed indoors during the day, causing dim light, it will affect flower growth and is not conducive to ornamental value. Therefore, rooms where plants are placed should ensure appropriate light and should not be too dark.
(3) Avoid air conditioning
When air conditioning is used to cool a room, the air humidity is low, which can easily cause the leaves of foliage plants to wilt and affect leaf luster. In severe cases, leaf edges will scorch. Flowers directly blown by the air conditioning outlet will quickly lose water and dry out. Plants should be placed away from the air conditioning outlet, and attention should be paid to spraying more water to increase indoor air humidity.
(4) Avoid improper water use
In summer, the temperature is too high and water evaporates quickly, so watering needs to be timely. For potted flowers placed outdoors, promptly clear accumulated water after rain.
The above are the key points and taboos of growing flowers in summer, so fellow flower growers should pay attention. In summer, these mistakes must never be made!
How to grow household potted flowers and plants well in summer? What should be noted?
Appropriate light and prevention of sun exposure
Light is the energy source for flowers to produce nutrients, so many flowers can only have abundant flowers and lush leaves under sufficient light conditions. However, different flowers or the same flower at different growth stages have different light requirements, hence the gardening saying: "shade camellia, sun peony, half-shade half-sun four-season orchid."
Generally, flowers that prefer ample light, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, osmanthus, jasmine, plum blossom, peony, poinsettia, croton, chrysanthemum, dahlia, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, hibiscus, crape myrtle, kumquat, aquatic flowers, and cacti, should be placed in a sunny place for care after being moved outdoors in spring. But by midsummer, they also need to be moved to a slightly shaded place to prevent strong light exposure.
Generally, shade-loving or strongly shade-loving flowers, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, asparagus fern, camellia, rhododendron, ivy, gardenia, evergreen, begonia, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Aspidistra, ferns, and Clivia, should be kept in summer in a well-ventilated environment with 50-80% shade. If exposed to direct strong light, their branches and leaves will turn yellow and may even die. For these flowers, in summer it is best to place them on an east- or north-facing balcony or windowsill; or place them indoors in a well-ventilated spot with bright scattered light; you can also use reeds or bamboo blinds to build a shade shed and place the pots under it for care. This can reduce light intensity and help the flowers grow robustly.
Cooling and humidifying, pay attention to ventilation
Temperature is an essential condition for flower growth. Due to the long-term influence of the natural climate conditions of their places of origin, different flowers have formed their own unique optimum, maximum, and minimum temperatures. For most flowers, the suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. In most regions of our country, the highest summer temperature can reach above 30°C. When the temperature exceeds the maximum limit for flower growth, the normal life activities of the flowers will be hindered, resulting in stunted plants, local leaf scorch, reduced flower quantity, and shortened flowering period. Many kinds of flowers bloom little or not at all in summer, and the effect of high temperature on their normal growth is an important reason.
Flowers native to tropical and subtropical regions, such as Michelia figo, camellia, rhododendron, and orchids, have long grown under warm and humid maritime climate conditions and have developed a special ecological requirement for humid air during their growth process. They generally require air humidity of no less than 80%. If their air humidity requirements can be met during care, they will grow well; otherwise, they are prone to poor growth, dry leaf edges, and scorched young leaves.
Under household conditions, the methods for cooling and humidifying in summer mainly include the following 4:
(1) Spray water to cool. In summer, while watering normally, according to the different air humidity requirements of different flowers, spray water on branches and leaves 2-3 times a day, and at the same time sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pots 1-2 times.
(2) Spread sand to cool. Spread a thick layer of coarse sand on a north- or east-facing balcony, then place the flower pots on the sand surface. In summer, sprinkle clean water on the sand surface 1-2 times a day. By using the moisture contained in the sand to absorb heat from the air, the purpose of cooling and humidifying can be achieved.
(3) Water pool cooling. Place a piece of hard miscellaneous wood or a cement precast slab on top of a water trough filled with cold water, then place the flower pots on the wooden board or cement slab, and add water once a day. After being heated, the water continuously evaporates, which can both increase air humidity and lower air temperature.
(4) Place the flower pots indoors in a well-ventilated spot with scattered light, spray clean water 1-2 times a day, and use an electric fan to blow air for cooling.
Reasonable watering and proper fertilization
In summer, the temperature is high, evaporation is fast, and plant transpiration is also strong, so flowers need more water. Therefore, for most flowers, sufficient water supply should be provided. As for how to control the amount of watering in summer? It should be determined according to the type of flower, the size of the plant, and the actual wetness of the potting soil. Generally, herbaceous flowers themselves contain more water and have high transpiration intensity, so they should be watered more; woody flowers can be watered appropriately less. Under normal circumstances, ordinary flowers should be watered thoroughly 1-2 times a day. Never water only halfway, otherwise the leaves will often curl and turn yellow, and over time the whole plant will die.
In summer, it is best to use rainwater for watering flowers, or first let tap water sit for 1 to 2 days. The best time to water is in the morning and evening. Never water with cold water at noon, because at this time the temperature is very high, and the outside temperature can often reach around 40°C. Not only is transpiration strong, but water evaporation is also fast. When suddenly stimulated by cold water, the cells on the leaf surface change from a tense state to a wilted one, causing the leaves to scorch, and in severe cases causing the entire plant to die. This phenomenon is especially obvious in some herbaceous flowers. If cold water is poured at noon in midsummer during the early stages of flower bud formation, flowering, and fruit setting, it can also easily cause bud drop, flower drop, and fruit drop.
What needs special mention here is: in midsummer, because the soil temperature is high, after a shower it is necessary to water promptly to remove the high humidity and stuffiness in the potting soil and lower the potting soil temperature; if water accumulates in the pot after a heavy rain, it should be poured out immediately, or use a bamboo stick to poke several small holes in the potting soil (be careful not to damage the roots) so that water can flow out from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, to avoid root rot.
For fertilizing potted flowers in summer, the principle of "light fertilizer applied frequently" should be followed. If the fertilizer concentration is too high, it can easily cause root rot. For generally vigorously growing flowers, apply a thin liquid fertilizer about once every 10-15 days. Fertilization should be done on sunny days when the potting soil is relatively dry, because fertilizing in wet soil can easily cause root rot. The best time to fertilize is in the evening after it has gradually cooled. The next day after fertilizing, water once. The type of fertilizer varies by flower. Flowers that prefer acidic soil, such as camellia, rhododendron, Michelia alba, gardenia, and jasmine, should avoid alkaline fertilizers and should use acidic or physiologically acidic fertilizers such as superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, and ferrous sulfate. When flowers enter the flower bud differentiation and budding stage, it is better to apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to promote more flowering. For flowers grown mainly for foliage, it is better to apply more nitrogen fertilizer to help promote lush green leaf color. For bulbous flowers, more potassium fertilizer should be applied to help the bulbs become plump. For large-flowered and long-flowering plants such as dahlia, during the budding and flowering period, an appropriate amount of complete fertilizer is needed so that all flowers can open and be beautiful in shape and color. For flowers grown mainly for fruit, fertilizer and water should be appropriately controlled during the flowering period, and sufficient complete fertilizer should be applied during the fruit-swelling period, so that the fruit will be large and plentiful.
During the care of potted flowers, if the plant is found to be short and weak, with small branches and pale yellow leaves, this is a sign of nitrogen deficiency, and nitrogen fertilizer should be supplemented in time; if the plant grows slowly, the leaves curl, the plant is short, and the root system is underdeveloped, it is mostly caused by phosphorus deficiency, and phosphorus-based fertilizer should be supplemented. If the leaf edges and leaf tips turn yellow (old leaves first, then new leaves) and then turn brown and fall off, and the stems are soft and easily bent, it is mostly caused by potassium deficiency, and potassium fertilizer should be applied as a top dressing.
Safe summering for dormant flowers
Some flowers, such as Cyclamen, Fuchsia, Begonia semperflorens, narcissus, Pelargonium, Caladium, Clivia, freesia, Gloxinia, tulip, and Epiphyllum, enter a semi-dormant or dormant state when the high-temperature season arrives in summer, showing reduced or paused growth so as to resist the harm of adverse external environmental conditions. In order for these flowers to safely pass the summer dormancy period, corresponding measures must be taken to carefully care for them according to their physiological characteristics during dormancy. The main measures are:
(1) After summer begins, move dormant flowers to a cool and ventilated place, avoid direct sunlight and prevent rain, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot or even death;
(2) Strictly control watering. During dormancy, watering too much and keeping the potting soil wet for a long time can very easily cause root rot, while watering too little and keeping the potting soil too dry can easily cause the root system to shrink. Therefore, watering should keep the potting soil slightly moist as appropriate. However, it is necessary to frequently spray water on branches and leaves and sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pots to create a humid and cool microclimate, which is beneficial for dormancy. But for flowers such as Gloxinia that have dense fuzz on the leaf surface, and for Cyclamen whose flower buds are sensitive to moisture, it is not suitable to spray water on the leaf surface or the center of the leaves;
(3) Stop applying any fertilizer. Because during dormancy the physiological activities of flowers are extremely weak, they do not need fertilizer. If fertilized, it can also easily cause root rot, bulb rot, and even the death of the whole plant.
Pruning and shaping to prevent leggy growth
After many flowers enter summer, they often tend to grow leggy, affecting flowering and fruiting. In order to maintain a beautiful plant shape and abundant flowers and fruit, pruning and shaping are needed. Summer pruning generally mainly includes measures such as pinching, bud removal, leaf removal, bud thinning, and fruit thinning.
(1) Pinching. For some herbaceous flowers, such as Begonia semperflorens, Fuchsia, Salvia splendens, chrysanthemum, Aster novi-belgii, and early small chrysanthemum, when they grow to a certain height, pinch off the top to promote more branching and more flowering. For some woody flowers, such as kumquat, when the current year's branches grow to about 15-20 cm, they should also be pinched to promote more fruiting.
(2) Bud removal. In summer, many flowers often sprout adventitious buds from the stem base or branches, which should be removed promptly to avoid consuming nutrients and disrupting the plant shape.
(3) Leaf removal. For some foliage flowers, old leaves should be appropriately cut off to promote new leaves, making the leaf color even more beautiful.
(4) Bud thinning and fruit thinning. For flowers grown mainly for flowers, such as dahlia, chrysanthemum, and Chinese rose, excess flower buds should be thinned in time; for fruit-viewing flowers, such as kumquat, pomegranate, and Buddha's hand, when the young fruit grows to the size of a soybean, excess young fruit should be thinned; for some flowers that cannot set seeds or whose seeds are not going to be collected, the remaining flowers should be cut off promptly after flowering.
(5) Shaping. For flowers such as poinsettia, plum blossom, ornamental peach, and crown of thorns, in summer the side branches are often bent for shaping so that the plant shape is full and beautiful.
Comprehensive management of disease and pest control
In summer, the temperature is high and the humidity is great, which is favorable for the large occurrence of pests and diseases. The policy of "prevention first, comprehensive control" should be implemented, and in the spirit of "treat early, treat small, treat thoroughly," do a good job in prevention and control to ensure the robust growth of flowers.
(1) Common summer diseases include powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray mold, leaf spot, nematode disease, and bacterial soft rot. Powdery mildew mainly harms Chinese rose, plum blossom, peony, chrysanthemum, dahlia, begonia, cineraria, and Fuchsia. After being damaged, the plant becomes short, the young shoots bend, and the leaves become uneven or curled. On young buds, young leaves, young shoots, and flower buds, it is as if covered with a layer of white powder and many small black spots grow. In severe cases, the leaves shrink and dry up, and even the whole plant dies. Anthracnose mainly harms orchids, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, plum blossom, Ficus elastica, and cactus. After most flowers are infected by the pathogen, nearly round disease spots appear on the leaf surface, with edges mostly purplish brown or dark brown and centers light brown or grayish white. On the disease spots, small black spots arranged in concentric rings often grow. When the disease is severe, the leaves die. Gray mold mainly harms peony, Chinese peony, Cyclamen, begonia, and Fuchsia. The affected parts of leaves, stems, and flowers show brown or purplish brown rot. When the weather is humid, gray mold-like substances grow on the disease spots, and in severe cases the whole plant dies. To control the above three diseases, the following methods can be used: ① In early spring, thoroughly remove dead branches and fallen leaves, and promptly cut off diseased branches, leaves, and buds, etc., and destroy them centrally to reduce sources of pathogens; ② Strengthen cultivation management, fertilize and water reasonably, pay attention to ventilation and light, so that the plants grow robustly and improve disease resistance; ③ In the early stage of disease, spray 50% carbendazim or 50% thiophanate 500-800 times diluted solution.
(2) Common summer pests fall into two major categories: piercing-sucking mouthpart pests and chewing mouthpart pests. The former mainly include aphids, red spiders, whiteflies, and scale insects. These pests often gather on leaves, tender stems, flower buds, branches, and other parts, using needle-like mouthparts to pierce into the flower body and suck sap, causing leaves to turn yellow and curl, leading to leaves turning yellow and falling off. For control methods, spray 50% dichlorvos emulsion 1000-1500 times diluted solution. This pesticide easily causes phytotoxicity to flowers and trees such as plum blossom, cherry blossom, rhododendron, and Prunus triloba, so it must not be used on these flowers and trees. The latter mainly include moth and butterfly larvae, various beetles, and underground pests. These pests eat leaves and bite roots, causing plants to wither and die. For control methods, spray 50% dichlorvos emulsion 1000-1500 times diluted solution, or use 500-800 times diluted solution to irrigate the root zone. In summer, the temperature is high, pesticides volatilize easily, and at high temperatures the human body's excretion function is enhanced and skin absorption increases, so toxic substances can easily enter the human body and cause poisoning. Therefore, when applying pesticides in summer, it is best to move the flower pots outdoors and apply them in the morning and evening.