How to prune Fittonia (nerve plant) when it grows too tall? Detailed guide to pinching and cutting back

As long as Fittonia is given a suitable environment, its growth rate is very fast, and this advantage also becomes a trouble for some flower growers, because it grows so wildly that the pot is packed full, which to a certain extent affects the beauty of the plant's shape and reduces its ornamental value. To solve this trouble, pruning is needed, and how do you prune Fittonia? Let's look at the pruning methods for Fittonia.

How to prune Fittonia

I. Pruning when Fittonia grows too tall

1. Pinching

(1) First pinching. During the young plant stage, generally when Fittonia has grown 3-4 leaves, remove the buds and leaves at the top, so as to prevent it from growing too tall and at the same time promote Fittonia to sprout branches.

(2) Second pinching. During the growing season, we need to pinch Fittonia again. The method is the same as above: also cut off the new buds and leaves at the top, thereby controlling the plant's growth height and effectively preventing Fittonia from growing too tall.

2. Cutting back

Besides pinching, if you want to control the height of Fittonia, you can also cut it back. So how do you prune Fittonia when cutting back? The method is rather similar to pinching, but the difference is that in addition to shortening the branches and leaves at the top, you can also cut off part of the side branches, thereby controlling the overall growth of Fittonia.

II. Shaping Fittonia

Fittonia is a plant that tolerates pruning relatively well, and it can also be shaped in many ways. Flower growers can cut off some leaves according to preference; as long as the roots and main stem are not damaged, the normal growth of Fittonia will not be affected. Of course, the cultivation methods for Fittonia after pruning still need to be understood.

How to handle the cut branches and leaves

1. Use for cuttings

When pinching, cut off the top branches, keep 4-6 leaves on them, then soak the wounds in carbendazim, and replant them in soil. After one month they will take root and sprout, and with care again they become a new pot of Fittonia.

2. Discard together

If you do not want to grow several more pots, you can gather the cut branches and leaves and discard them. Do not let some leaves and branches hang on the Fittonia plant, and even more do not let them fall into the flower pot. First, it is bad for the beauty of the plant's shape, and second, it easily breeds bacteria.

Precautions for pruning Fittonia

When pruning, try to use relatively sharp scissors; ordinary scissors commonly used in daily life are fine, but when operating you should cut in one stroke and not rub back and forth at the wound. The cut branches and leaves will soon wilt if not soaked, so before pruning you should consider whether you need to propagate.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do a good job of the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, petunia, California poppy, Phlox drummondii, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have been sand-stored and have already cracked and shown white, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron chinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus chinensis, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Wisteria sinensis, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Hippeastrum bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture in February include: Prunus mume (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia indica, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, Punica granatum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus orientalis, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia coccinea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Pilea cadierei, Bryophyllum, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera arboricola, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film to keep warm and moist. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate fine cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti'; adopting the measure of bagging and inflating to retain moisture gives a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock scions, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for scions of fine rose cultivars; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope muscari, Liriope muscari 'Variegata', Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Oxalis, Bromeliaceae, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Chlorophytum species, Bryophyllum, Canna indica, Maranta, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Ardisia crenata, and winter cherry can be picked, then treated and sand-stored to promote germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with relatively good genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seed emergence rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high. Herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, Alcea rosea, Ilex 'Variegata', Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be planted out. Among them, deciduous types such as Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Malus species, Ginkgo biloba, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume (carried out before budding and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron chinense, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), Salix babylonica, Salix alba 'Vitellina', Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, Diospyros kaki, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Ligustrum sinense, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus fragrans, Ligustrum lucidum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc., when planted, should be given moderate pruning.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (tunnel) care, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the flower plants has greatly declined. Therefore, careful work on moisture retention and cold protection should continue. If the greenhouse or plastic tunnel has heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang the straw curtains; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care should be taken.

Overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities should continue to be well ventilated, especially by the end of February, when the ventilation time can be extended during the time period with the highest temperature of the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Dieffenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, you can add a plastic bag over them at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on a heating appliance such as a "bath heater" to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so the demand for water is small. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, flower buds to stop growing, and in severe cases leaves to shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds to shrink and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', kumquat, winter cherry, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Citrus microcarpa, winter cherry, etc., not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day, so as to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds and enable them to bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium orchids purchased after being cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often show shrinkage and withering. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    In February, although the vast majority of potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially when the temperature continues to rise for several days in a row, supplemental watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplemental watering should be done in a timely manner. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, water should also be appropriately sprayed on the leaves around noon on clear days to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting the recovery of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon droppings, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Prunus mume, Narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Aechmea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia miniata, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as topdressing, to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and tree-stump bonsai placed in tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. planted in the ground or in pots after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have flowered, except for retaining 2 to 3 buds at the base, all the rest should be cut off, promoting the production of many new shoots in the current year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Serissa japonica, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Jasminum bicolor, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia coccinea, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas revoluta, Clivia miniata, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Hippeastrum, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera arboricola, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', kumquat, Citrus medica, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted Pericallis hybrida in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on the leaves of Primula, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray it once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays being sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in tunnels, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in tunnels, foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" should be stopped, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plants is hard to absorb and, on the contrary, easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After the aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, the sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white scale, oystershell scale, and black round scale appearing on potted flower plants in tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun; after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried granular powder of cake fertilizer can be scattered in flower pots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium orchids, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, you can continue to turn over garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus formosana, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis 'Shimpaku', Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If the plant is found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixing.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, in case the plants freeze to death or the artificially cemented rocks crack and disintegrate from freezing, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Flower species for ground planting

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have relatively high requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo biloba, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron chinense, Prunus mume, Rosa chinensis, fig, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, peony, Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, Prunus serrulata, grape, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Nandina, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Phoenix canariensis, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, Cedrus deodara, Chimonanthus praecox, Musa basjoo, clustered bamboo, etc. No matter how the light is in your courtyard, or whether it is dry or wet, the following points should be noted when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage; second, they should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but already basically formed large-specification plants, so as to achieve the effect of greening and beautification early; for example, Ginkgo biloba, Japanese fir, Osmanthus fragrans, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. should not be lower than 2 m; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flower and groundcover plant species suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, Celosia, Gomphrena globosa, Sedum spectabile, marigold, Alcea rosea, Impatiens, lupine, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Papaver rhoeas, Zephyranthes candida, dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flower and groundcover plant species that are relatively shade-tolerant include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope muscari, Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, Iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements, such as Prunus mume, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria heterophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, King coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, Bromeliaceae, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, Primula, Cymbidium orchids, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia miniata, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota mitis, Areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can plant and grow some types with relatively extensive management requirements, such as Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, Rhapis excelsa, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', cactus types, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera arboricola, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Liriodendron chinense. The latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised as seedlings after sand storage to promote germination include: Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona chinensis, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus fragrans, Aesculus chinensis, Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Punica granatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia, Salvia splendens, Celosia, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, Primula obconica, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-sensitive species should preferably be sown inside a plastic tunnel cover.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, fig, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Daphne odora, Pyracantha, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should preferably be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora 'Osaka', Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliflora seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Atropurpurea', etc.; using seedling Chimonanthus praecox of finger thickness as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions of fine cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox and carry out cut grafting and bagging to retain moisture, giving a relatively high survival rate; using three-angled cactus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably carried out in tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, Prunus serrulata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum, Gardenia, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchids, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas revoluta, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time to transplant and plant ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; for evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done during transplanting, so as to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, etc., even after budding it does not matter, but appropriate pruning is also needed. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball should be carried; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon droppings, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, laying a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, pest-infested branches, and leggy flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, benefiting flowering the next year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that ruin the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March, so as to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected with pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees prone to pests and diseases, such as Rosa chinensis, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leafing out, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Malva, Liriope muscari 'Variegata', Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, Iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer as topdressing, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Pinus parviflora, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out, replacing them with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas revoluta, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia miniata, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening off. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal attention. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March cold protection and heat preservation work must still continue; in late March, the doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ficus elastica, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can gradually be hardened off and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding too early sprouting affecting growth and normal flowering in the current year. For potted flowers in areas north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and care must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Caryota mitis, Areca palm, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and Begonia types, combine with repotting and carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches and some yellowed leaves, etc. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Shimpaku', Pinus taiwanensis, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus hupehensis, Xylosma racemosum, Syzygium buxifolium, etc., which are mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be done before sprouting in March to further improve their shape. For Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, etc., strong renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow and keep some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Among ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting, one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick with relatively abundant sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas revoluta, cactus types (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus, Crassula, Echinocactus grusonii, large columnar cactus, Astrophyton, Aporocactus, Euphorbia tirucalli), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Pereskia, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, Jasminum nudiflorum, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema modestum, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also a category of flower species that are relatively resistant to direct sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can withstand short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potted planting (especially on high-floor balconies), such as Punica granatum, Rosa chinensis, Ficus microcarpa, Ligustrum sinense, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma racemosum, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, black pine, Juniperus formosana, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Pinus parviflora, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Camellia japonica, Schefflera arboricola, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can also be used as potted plants on somewhat lower balconies, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised as seedlings in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia miniata seeds has been collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can then be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Euphorbia tirucalli, Crassula, etc. can be propagated by cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors near a window sill with relatively good light, such as Gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Rosa pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be well covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, grafting Pinus parviflora, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Chimonanthus praecox, etc. requires bagging to retain moisture, otherwise it is not easy to survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on balconies, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it easily causes frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which not only affects the normal growth of the plants in the current year, but in severe cases can cause the plants to die. Measures such as building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, black pine, Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum sinense, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be changed; for bonsai placed on balconies, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For Prunus mume, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases, and destroy them; for dried and withered cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) supported above it, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid air flow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the harm of snow and frost. By after Guyu, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Jianghuai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in the Huaibei region, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, the flower tasks are as follows:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, dwarf dahlia, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens, morning glory, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit sloteri, Nicotiana, petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis, Coreopsis tinctoria, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum, Kochia scoparia, Hibiscus, Euphorbia heterophylla, basil, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia multiflora, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia emeiensis, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron hybrids, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, Sciadopitys verticillata, Araucaria heterophylla, Pseudolarix amabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Ormosia hosiei, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Other greening trees and shrubs of the species include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow tree, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, ormosia, wintersweet, summersweet, white spirea, goji berry, nandina, coral ardisia, palm, and others.

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after collection in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter cherry, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit. Among them, Japanese fatsia can have its already blackened, whitish, and softened fruits picked at the end of April; after rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them in fertile seedbeds. Alternatively, the seeds can first be stratified in sand until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have germinated, the grass covering should be removed promptly, and a shade frame should be set up at the same time; for cultivating nipplefruit, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin removed, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds will germinate and emerge. When the seedlings have grown 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be grown in pots to observe the fruit, or planted in the ground as special cut flower material for cultivation.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Chinese pagoda tree, ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, red-flowered black locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, cast-iron plant, ferns, palm grass, spider plant, agave, silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, calathea, aloe, peperomia, monstera, bird's nest fern, etc. ... [truncated]

    4. Cuttage

For most easy-to-root flowering tree species, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttage in April. The main species include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spirea, tulip tree, spiraea, winter daphne, and japonica.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not excessively pruned, they can still be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting outdoor flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen flowering trees and shrubs such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, michelia, and white orchid, a portion of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy; for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant before their leaves unfold, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc.; usually the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant, so that under the condition of not damaging the soil ball, the transplanted plant can be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, juniper, serissa, water willow, true juniper, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, hinoki cypress, banyan, boxwood, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, winter daphne, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red nanmu, Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, fragrant wood, golden bullet tree, hall crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, oleaster, holly, golden larch, and tiger thorn.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, traction, and correction so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the maintenance of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: first, bud removal in time; when the winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male strobili; when needle bundle buds and male and female strobili can be distinguished on the new shoots, all female strobili borne at the tips of the new shoots and male strobili located at the base of the new shoots should be removed promptly to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry and substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly produced needles are short and clustered and that the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, azalea, winter jasmine, forsythia, winter daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter cherry, Christmas cactus, spring orchid, cymbidium, Chinese cymbidium, and phaius, because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, a nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied as a top dressing, such as fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth; for potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jian orchid, hibiscus, and white orchid, top dressing should also be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, top dressing should also be applied in time to meet the needs of vegetative growth.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; money tree has extremely strong vitality, and even if it is too late to process into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust plant shape and prevent diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems should be removed promptly, plant shape should be adjusted, and water and fertilizer management should be strengthened; for flower species prone to diseases, lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed promptly to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-viewing potted plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, and hall crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and the good opportunity must not be missed.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day to always keep the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Volume)

Weather characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China, and after each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Lesser Fullness, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May at the turn of spring and summer is a key period for growing flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees that can be sown immediately after collection in May mainly include: four-season primrose, Japanese fatsia, broadleaf mahonia, and loquat. May sowing and seedling raising should pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor excessively dry and dehydrated; second, the sowing seedbed should be covered with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in wetness and dryness that cause seeds to "regress"; third, after seedlings emerge, remove the grass covering in several batches and set up shade promptly to avoid scorching the seedlings.

Osmanthus can have its mature blue-black fruits picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and expose the tip of the radicle can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them and to keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttage

Flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, azalea, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, white jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, jade plant, gem flower, magnolia sieboldii, magnolia, japonica, umbrella plant, lantana, red-backed eucalyptus, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, bleeding heart vine, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha-belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate white orchid and michelia; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old rhododendron cuttings to cleft graft and propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock; softwood grafting for superior varieties of wintersweet, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and three-ribbed arrow can be used as rootstocks for grafting and propagating Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, michelia, and red maple; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, and trumpet creeper.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most species must be potted and planted in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on time by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, and begonia.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and the beginning of May, when white magnolia is transplanted after flowering and just before sprouting and leafing out, the survival rate is highest. Some flowering trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a reservoir or small vat, and then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, azalea, red azalea, gardenia, winter daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, and red-flowered camellia; foliage plants include: sago palm, bird's nest fern, monstera, palm grass, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, syngonium, calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian wood, money tree, and schefflera; fruit-viewing plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, finger citron, lemon, nandina, winter cherry, and coral ardisia.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For the pruning back of white orchid not long after being moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water and dries downward. For this reason, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be retained, and it must not be too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose pruning after flowering, the height should be moderately lowered by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the position of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud position; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink downward and affect the selected leaf bud. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, the terminal bud should be removed promptly to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or tree shade, such as: monstera, palm grass, calathea, bird's nest fern, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink taro, fan palm, syngonium, orchid, azalea, bird of paradise, camellia, and sasanqua; for light-loving flowering trees, sufficient light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, and white orchid; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, plum pine, trident maple, water willow, oak, serissa, black pine, and soft pine require sufficient light; while podocarpus, tiger thorn, red nanmu, juniper, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, plum blossom, aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, winter daphne, clivia, orchid, and crabapple, after flowering remove the faded flowers and stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month, to restore vegetative growth and at the same time lay a foundation for producing flower buds again; for foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, monstera, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, bird's nest fern, cast-iron plant, and ferns, apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, multicolor bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly syngonium, and pink taro, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar top dressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot, and for leaf-eating pests that appear, pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them; for citrus swallowtail larvae, leaf-eating pests that often appear on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, and rue, pesticides should be sprayed early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, serissa, juniper, water willow, fragrant wood, and ginkgo. It is worth noting that when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark and structure of the branches and trunks; otherwise, it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Volume)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, cold and warm air masses of equal strength meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that go dormant or semi-dormant in summer and for most bonsai, maintenance should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts shaping or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seed, cycad, loquat, and wintersweet. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the internal seeds are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, remove the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, and at this time sow them in furrows; the soil covering thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 batches and set up shade promptly.

    2. Cuttage

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cuttage propagation of flowering trees. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cuttage in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly by hardwood cuttage, such as osmanthus, camellia, michelia, holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, japonica, snowball, Chinese snowball, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, and bald cypress; the other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, broom, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, finger citron, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, trumpet creeper, red-backed eucalyptus, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, hypericum, golden-flowered hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, ardisia, winter daphne, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, weigela, trumpet honeysuckle, snowball viburnum, peach-leaf aucuba, schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spiraea, hydrangea, and poinsettia. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, calceolaria, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, and sulfur cosmos.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttage of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cuttage time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cuttings are new shoots of the current year, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the end, and the lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, then inserted into the seedbed after brief drying; the insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

For grafting, use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior varieties of wintersweet; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstocks to graft white orchid, michelia, etc. For bud grafting, use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties by grafting; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf cherry plum, plum blossom, and elm-leaf spiraea; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstocks for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. For branch grafting, use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among rhododendrons as rootstocks for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, Chinese snowball, weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, and white orchid.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, acorus, and golden-edge dwarf lilyturf.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, and amaryllis (sow immediately after collection).

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not allow, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate; peach and apricot should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be stratified in sand until they crack and sprout before sowing in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo, and when they germinate, choose nursery land for sowing.

    2. Transplanting and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting or potting, including: evening primrose, cleome, impatiens, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, red-flowered tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and red-green grass.

After entering summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, broadleaf mahonia, mahonia, hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, just as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, but do not let the tree know." However, after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    In June, potted flower watering should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and under general conditions watering once a day is sufficient; second, watering temperature, the irrigation water should be kept basically consistent with the pot soil temperature. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth; third, combine watering and spraying. When there has been no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the wetness or dryness of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, and begonia. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is sufficient; deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, lycoris (types), ranunculus, and Dutch peony. Under high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither and their underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots in dormancy. Watering must be stopped for them, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil should be kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as monstera, spider plant, syngonium, calathea, sword fern, bird's nest fern, sago palm, cast-iron plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-backed eucalyptus, palm grass, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, winter daphne, azalea, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, and firethorn, apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently in bloom, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, squirrel tail, Mesembryanthemum, stapelia, and sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, plum pine, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true juniper, juniper, water willow, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, and firethorn, branches affecting the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good-looking, and can promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and Chinese rose, faded flowers and stems should be removed promptly, and branches that have flowered should be appropriately cut back to promote renewed flowering from lower side branches or flower buds; for flowering trees such as white orchid, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, and crabapple, in order to promote good plant shape, more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, overly vigorous branches should be tip-pruned and buds removed to inhibit the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sun. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchid, palm grass, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, syngonium, pink taro, bird's nest fern, pothos, peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, winter daphne, cast-iron plant, and spider plant. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, plum pine, holly, wintergreen, water willow, oak, black pine, white orchid, aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, and grape; podocarpus, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha-belly bamboo, five-needle pine, and bamboo cypress can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, juniper, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, and crabapple are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose, and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, and wintersweet are prone to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, and finger citron have tender leaves that are easily eaten by citrus swallowtail larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

Plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted in early spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, oleaster, Huashan pine, juniper, Chinese juniper, holly, wintergreen, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, hall crabapple, Mulus spectabilis, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, black pine, boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true juniper, ginkgo, snow willow, and firethorn. Shaping in June must be careful, with light and slow wiring; one must not be too impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Volume)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather in the Yangtze-Huai region ends. On July 16, the dog days begin, and on August 15, the dog days end. Most regions of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most regions of China is above 24°C, and in regions south of the Yangtze-Huai area it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have an average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, four-season primrose, ornamental kale, and campanula. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaf spiraea can also be picked. After washing off the flesh, sow them in furrows immediately, or store the washed drupes in moist sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttage
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: half-penny grass, begonia, coleus, clearweed, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch chrysanthemum, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, epiphyllum, knotweed, mother of thousands, and pothos.
    Woody flowering plant species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: red-backed eucalyptus, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, hypericum, golden-flowered hypericum, weigela, hydrangea, trumpet honeysuckle, snowball viburnum, spiraea, winter daphne, gardenia, winter daphne, magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, serissa, michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese snowball, Tianmu viburnum, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, azalea, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttage.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees can also be propagated by water cuttage. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, and rose of Sharon. To propagate flowering trees by water cuttage, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick and perforate it for use as fixing material for cuttings; second, keep the water for cuttage clean, and a few pieces of charcoal can be added for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach and peach can be used as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaf spiraea, red-leaf plum, and beauty plum; use cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, and rugosa roses; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstocks for grafting to propagate white orchid, michelia, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstocks, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and whether it has survived can be judged after 7 to 10 days; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among rhododendrons as rootstocks for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; use current-year seedling rootstocks of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, hall crabapple, or crabapple for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; use seedlings of Japanese maple as rootstocks for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Chinese snowball, oleander, weigela, broom, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing Chinese rose, and winter jasmine.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, acorus, umbrella plant, cast-iron plant, purple-backed oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, sword fern, iris, and inch plant. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, snake's head chrysanthemum, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, and Mesembryanthemum.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaf spiraea.
    2. Transplanting and Potting
    July is the main period for potting up bedding flowers during the National Day season. The bedding flowers transplanted into pots at this time can be seedlings raised from seed or cuttings, and after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day holiday for use as festive decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under certain special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as leatherleaf mahonia, golden St. John's wort, golden privet, red-leaf barberry, Japanese aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be erected in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be shifted to normal management; do not be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
    Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state during high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geraniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia, stapelia, string of pearls, Senecio, daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, etc., should be watered less because the temperature is too high, their growth activity has basically stopped, and their metabolic level is very low. Keep the potting soil moist, and pay attention to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily leads to root rot and can also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
    Flower species that enter a deep dormant state during high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, show withered stems and leaves above ground in July, while the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off, and they summer in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should simply be kept from becoming too dry.
    For flower species that grow vigorously, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, cast-iron plant, Swiss cheese plant, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, Aglaia, Chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, green queen, pink lady, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Japanese aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be appropriately sprayed with water, combining watering and spraying. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given; do not be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves with water, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rotting of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
    For potted plum trunks, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water restriction" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours before and after noon. Watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    There are four major categories of ornamental plants whose fertilization management should be strengthened in July. The first is types with an especially long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia, and jasmine; the second is types that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, and cotton rose; the third is types for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, and azalea; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm bamboo, Swiss cheese plant, goosefoot plant, and rubber tree. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plant's comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer is preferable.
    The bedding flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, cymbidium, marigold, four o'clock flower, snapdragon, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, white orchid, Aglaia, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, begonias, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, Chloranthus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, green giant, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, Cordyline, etc.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as sedums, Senecio, Lampranthus, and stapelia; fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
    Ornamental plants that can be tipped and pinched in summer must be vigorous-growing, strongly sprouting, and pruning-tolerant types. Pinching means directly removing the young terminal buds at the tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese flowering quince, Adinandra, Euonymus bungeanus, boxwood, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, Chinese tamarisk, Elaeagnus, water willow, Vitex, Forsythia, Chinese hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, white ash, trident maple, crape myrtle, snowbush, orange jasmine, etc. Pruning means using scissors to trim off part of a new shoot to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant types suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, holly, and true juniper, etc.
For potted flower types that continue blooming for a long time, such as Aglaia, Chinese rose, jasmine, and Chloranthus, their spent flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and necessary shortening pruning should be given to branches that have already flowered, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and blooming again. For azalea, camellia, sasanqua, begonia, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Swiss cheese plant, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, goosefoot plant, pink lady, pothos, pepperomia species, cast-iron plant, Tradescantia, Brazilian iron, Rhaphidophora, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea, etc.
For light-loving types, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, snowbush, sago palm, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese flowering quince, trident maple, black pine, water willow, oak, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, etc. For Buddhist pine, Buddhist bamboo, banana shrub, tiger thorn, cloud bamboo, five-needle pine, etc., it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower types with a relatively high degree of leathery leaf texture, or with a thicker cuticle layer on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, golden hibiscus, Chinese fan palm, palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, goosefoot plant, Swiss cheese plant, Schefflera, cast-iron plant, Japanese aucuba, etc. It is not advisable to choose Boston fern, coleus, green giant, Syngonium, etc. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected with anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, begonias, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and elm-leaved spirea, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate or omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leaf roller that harms boxwood, boxwood, and pearl boxwood. When this insect occurs severely, it can gnaw all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect that harms privet, small-leaf privet, water wax, and white wax tree, late July to late August is its emergence period. The timing should be chosen accurately to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf boxwood, plane tree, pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai Shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover. Most tree stump types are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are plant types with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they are required to be plants that were potted and acclimated in spring or grown in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, Buddhist cypress, emerald cypress, snowbush, black pine, boxwood, water willow, etc.
    In July, plant shaping must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and must not be done hastily or with excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second hottest dry and hot period of the year after July. The average monthly temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or heat-tolerant types. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, armand pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea, Aglaia, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, lantana, coral tree, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, palm bamboo, money tree, schefflera, frangipani, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, bamboo begonia, snapdragon, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, phlox, five-color pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are cast-iron plant, Guangdong evergreen, goosefoot plant, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, and silver queen.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, summer sweetshrub, American summer sweetshrub, Buddhist pine, etc. They can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sown in bags after sand storage for germination. Pomegranates grown for their fruit are harvested after they mature and crack, the fleshy layer outside the seeds is rubbed off and washed away, and they are stored in sand until germination before sowing. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, Pelargonium, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, fairy primrose, coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed medium prepared from alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower and tree types can be propagated: firethorn, leatherleaf mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, Chinese snowball, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus, rubber tree, Pittosporum, Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, etc. Using yellow subsoil or sandy loam as the medium, boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, snowbush, spirea, bridal wreath spirea, gardenia, etc. can be propagated by cuttings. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree graftings can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chinese fringetree as the rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use current-year seedlings of wild peach as the rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, etc.; use cherry seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose and as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Siberian crabapple, Chinese pearleaf crabapple, and Hupeh crabapple as rootstocks and bud-graft Midget crabapple and Hall crabapple; use green maple as the rootstock and change the crown by grafting red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as the rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft-graft or side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, the cleft grafting method can also be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksian rose, climbing Chinese rose, weigela, hydrangea, Chinese snowball, snowball, oleander, gardenia, Scotch broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Japanese quince, Hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant types that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea, hosta, purple hosta, small angel, multi-headed green emperor, bromeliads, Solomon's seal, cast-iron plant, umbrella plant, water buttonbush, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular wood sorrel, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch chrysanthemum, Boston fern, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, management such as shading, watering, and spraying should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be obtained, such as golden privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged arborvitae, golden-hearted (edged) boxwood, golden St. John's wort, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Chinese juniper balls, Sabina chinensis balls, boxwood balls, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Japanese aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, bedding flowers can also be transplanted and established, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, snapdragon, etc., and they can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, courtyard hedges such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden privet, French holly, and Photinia should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry, firethorn, pittosporum, holly, and evergreen, must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, and lantana, spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately shortened. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, peacock chrysanthemum, and marigold, tipping and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and established herbaceous flowers, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water carefully to ensure there is no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered?, golden-edged (heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, shell ginger, etc., in order to keep their leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For types that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, lantana, etc., as well as types about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed through leaf fertilization.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that gnaw Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower types whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, summer sweetshrub, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Chinese peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant types that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera and the center of the clivia leaf rosette also must not be splashed with water, because dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and inject water into the leaf tank to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to compact. For flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, only maintaining the potting soil slightly moist, and by spraying water around the flower pots to create a relatively cool and moist microenvironment for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants such as Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, rubber tree, goosefoot plant, palm bamboo, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, beautiful date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, Boston fern, Pandanus tectorius, Fagraea (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (peace wood), coin tree (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, green emperor, green queen, poinsettia, pink lady, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, small potted coconut, croton, Japanese fatsia, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For long-flowering types such as Chinese rose, white orchid, jasmine, Chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, lantana, etc., as well as fruit-viewing types such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, coral ardisia, firethorn, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, China aster, chrysanthemum, miniature sunflower, etc., thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree types in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, azalea, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, so as to avoid leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaves with water once after fertilizing to wash away fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant types in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, sedums, purple triangular wood sorrel, cacti, cactus balls, etc., all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For ornamental plant types that prefer coolness, such as Swiss cheese plant, goosefoot plant, small angel, rubber tree, areca palm, green giant, Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, palm bamboo, pothos, green emperor, green queen, orchid grass species, pink lady, pepperomia, bromeliads, water buttonbush, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo fern, spider plant, Reineckea, small potted coconut, Fittonia, purple velvet plant, blood leaf orchid, silver queen, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, red palm, begonias, lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant, asparagus fern, purple hosta, etc., shade frames can continue to be provided. Pull the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue tipping or pruning vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting tree stump bonsai, such as Chinese elm, Japanese flowering quince, Fujian tea, banyan, white ash, water willow, boxwood, etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, etc., shorten and prune after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterflies, rose sawflies, and peach red-necked longhorn beetles. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and borers.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Japanese white pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese flowering quince, water willow, holly, evergreen, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxwood, oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, white ash, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia, trident maple, Buddhist pine, etc. In August, some flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium, Dendrobium orchid, Cattleya orchid, Chinese cymbidium, Vanda orchid, Oncidium, South American sago, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, red palm, green giant, red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, king coconut, small angel, Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, pothos, palm bamboo, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, golden shrimp plant, Brazilian wood, Japanese fatsia, etc.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, large-diameter flower pots can be used on the balcony, covered with plastic film, for moisture-retaining cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting medium can be rice chaff ash mixed with fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant types that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, bamboo begonia, gardenia, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus, Cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen, camellia, sasanqua, banana shrub, etc. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, fig, Cordyline, frangipani, geranium, Guangdong evergreen, fuchsia, etc.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and prudently. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand pool, place 10 cm thick wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the wet sand, such as: Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, small angel, camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, spring orchid, cymbidium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus, etc. Usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for their safe summering. For large-flowered cymbidium, tiger orchid, Oncidium, Cattleya orchid, fuchsia, Dendrobium orchid, crystal anthurium, black-leaf alocasia, etc., they can be moved to an air-conditioned room, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower types placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese flowering quince, boxwood, trident maple, black pine, Japanese white pine, wisteria, Fujian tea, water willow, agave, sago palm, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or apply 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowers and trees mainly grown for flowers and fruits, such as white orchid, Aglaia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Japanese flowering quince, holly, evergreen, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, water willow, boxwood, etc., after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be placed over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese flowering quince, snowbush, white ash, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxwood, firethorn, etc., tipping or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution.

Flower Planting Handbook (September Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of our country slowly decline, with the average monthly temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plant types are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, Buddhist bamboo, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian iron, Fagraea, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, schefflera, palm bamboo, frangipani, bottle palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline, beautiful date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American sago, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia subelliptica (Clusiaceae), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia, white orchid, orange jasmine, Pandanus tectorius, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, bamboo begonia, marigold, five-color pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, snapdragon, etc.
Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower types that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species, summer sweetshrub, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, buckeye seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing, the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer sweetshrub seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer sweetshrub, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other types must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower types that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall campion, dwarf campion, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primula, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting medium, flower and tree types that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, leatherleaf mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, fuchsia, Chinese snowball, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus, golden-vein shrimp plant, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, golden St. John's wort, spirea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bridal wreath spirea, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, snowbush, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, Japanese quince, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root sections as the rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedlings of wild peach, apricot, etc. as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate elm-leaved spirea, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as the rootstock and bag-moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple, laceleaf maple, etc.; use white magnolia seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia and Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use citrus seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use Chinese fringetree as the rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree types that can be propagated by layering include: Japanese quince, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus, French holly, snowball, Chinese snowball, bridal wreath spirea, spirea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant types that can be divided include: spring orchid, cymbidium, Jian orchid, Chinese peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen, purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, snake plant, small angel, multi-headed green emperor, silver queen, Boston fern, nandina, Japanese quince, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, cast-iron plant, large-leaf lilyturf, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Mediterranean bluebell, etc. can also have their bulblets divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flowers and trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of good soil balls. Types such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden privet, boxwood species, golden St. John's wort, French holly, red-flowered loropetalum, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthening watering, spraying, and shading management can ensure that transplanting is absolutely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be established or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Types include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning vigorously growing courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability, which is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden privet, golden-edged arborvitae, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, holly, evergreen, Photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tipped and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, French marigold, etc. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots. Stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue blooming for a long time, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and appropriately shorten branches that have already flowered, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing good watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wrapped around the trunk to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the crown to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, shell ginger, croton, golden-spotted Japanese aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep their leaf color fresh and bright at all times, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming continuously or are for autumn flower viewing and fruit viewing, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season tangerine, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, nandina, firethorn, coral ardisia, kumquat, etc., as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming flowers and trees such as crape myrtle, firethorn, and begonia, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, and begonia, insert poison sticks at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution in the early stage of the disease for control.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flowers and trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Yunshan white orchid, Ledong banana shrub, many-flowered banana shrub, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are buckeye species, crape myrtle, lilac, begonia species, redbud, white spirea, yew, bright-leaf wintersweet, etc. Magnoliaceae, as well as yew, buckeye, begonia species, etc., after seed treatment, must all be stored in wet sand until early the following spring, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc. After collection, thresh promptly, and dry-store until the following spring before sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month, water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month, change to watering once, with appropriate leaf spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by leaf spraying. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant types that prefer an acidic environment, add a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower types that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil of the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilization. September is the period when most flowers and plants are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually turn cooler, so great attention should be paid to fertilization management this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (fern pine), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), fishtail palm (Caryota), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), red (green) gem (Fittonia), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with an exceptionally long flowering period or those whose peak bloom is in autumn, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Lantana camara, five-color sage (Lantana), pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', sweet osmanthus, etc., fruit ornamental plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), nandina, Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), papaya, golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), Callicarpa, fruiting pomegranate, etc., and colorful foliage plants such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae, variegated banyan (Ficus), golden-striped Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana'), Cordyline fruticosa, coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides), etc., balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied as top dressing. For Fuchsia, Pelargonium, calla lily, Cyclamen, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne, Schlumbergera, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia, Epiphyllum, etc., which are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud expansion stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom, Michelia figo, rhododendron, etc., low-concentration nutritionally balanced fertilizer can be applied as top dressing; for potted herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin fertilizer can be applied once every 10 days to meet the needs of bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, pothos, bamboo palm, green emperor, silver queen, orchid grass, Dieffenbachia, Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Aspidistra, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, dwarf philodendron, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, Pachystachys, asparagus fern, Schefflera, Pteris multifida 'Variegata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia 'Variegata', giant taro (Alocasia), Anthurium, staghorn fern, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm (Archontophoenix), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Fukien tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo, Adina rubella, black pine, Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis) (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, Chinese rose, oak (Quercus), Fraxinus chinensis, etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, five-needle pine, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium,? tree, Epiphyllum, nandina, jade plant, rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots should also be properly shaded to prevent wilting and affect their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, Bougainvillea, Lantana, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower (Jacobina), etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those tree stump bonsai species that are tolerant of pruning, easy to sprout and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Fukien tea, banyan, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum quihoui, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Sabina chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue to prune or pinch buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into "braids" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum blossom, begonia, longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowers and trees with strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), red pine, five-needle pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex), wintersweet, ornamental fruiting pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fukien tea, Fraxinus chinensis, banyan, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, Agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry (Celtis), Podocarpus macrophyllus, prickly elm (Hemiptelea), Serissa, firethorn, Lantana, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium, Clivia, Fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as bamboo palm, Monstera deliciosa, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, Areca palm, fishtail palm, king coconut (Cocos nucifera), Pandanus (Pandanus), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-caliber flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand each accounting for 1/2, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. Also indoors, water cuttings can be done for Schefflera, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, Aglaonema, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, dwarf philodendron, Chloranthus, Bromeliaceae, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and normally spray water instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more spraying and less watering should also be done to keep the pot soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, at least 1 to 2 times of water spraying per day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with strong resistance placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and spray 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion pot method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom of the pot soil. Watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilization. For potted flower species gradually recovering from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied; for vigorously growing potted stumps, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly for flower and fruit viewing, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., according to different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium balanced multi-element compound fertilizer. The types of top dressing for flowers and trees on the balcony should not have peculiar smells, especially no foul odors, and when applying, be careful not to splash downstairs, operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the pot soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up a support and pull up a shade net to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, banyan, Fukien tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, prostrate juniper, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, residual flowers and withered stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% Bylebap wettable powder 1500 times solution; for the double-striped cedar longhorn beetle appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, begonia, papaya, longevity peach, etc., continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet, etc., when the number is small, they can be manually wiped off, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch (Pseudolarix), whitebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, bamboo-leaf podocarp (Nageia), sago palm (Cycas), Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron (Yucca), Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), sweet osmanthus, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated banyan, hibiscus, golden larch (Pseudolarix), croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, bamboo palm, bottle palm (Nolina), Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', thick-leaved banyan, fishtail palm, Areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful phoenix palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad (Zamia), Garcinia, large Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Pandanus, Murraya paniculata, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: peony, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet (Calycanthus), Ardisia, soapberry (Sapindus), kuding tea (Ilex kudingcha), Podocarpus macrophyllus, bamboo-leaf podocarp, French holly (Viburnum), Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, yew (Taxus), fan palm (Livistona), privet, Ligustrum quihoui, camphor, Weigela, palm, bald cypress (Taxodium), etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face down, and before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except for summer wintersweet and Weigela seeds which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, other species can have their seeds cleaned and stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the next spring before sowing. Note that seeds should be rinsed clean before storage and germination promotion, the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mildew. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, Dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily (Belamcanda), dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, Cyclamen, African daisy, calceolaria, can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Lantana, firethorn, Mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, aucuba, hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Berberis thunbergii, Ligustrum sinense, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', gardenia, Weigela, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese rose, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, oleander, fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can use general sandy loam or yellow heart soil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be cut include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth, marigold, Begonia semperflorens, bamboo-joint begonia, Tradescantia, golden pothos, Pilea, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Pachystachys, winter chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), etc. (This part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and moisturize to graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine), Japanese white pine; use peony roots as rootstock, graft excellent varieties of peony; use one-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and moisturize to graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft excellent varieties of white magnolia, saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), red-flowered magnolia, etc.; use triangular cactus (Hylocereus) as rootstock, graft various cactus balls; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by low layering include: Camellia japonica, plum blossom, Weigela, Hydrangea, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, August sweet osmanthus, snowball (Viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum, purple magnolia, gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be divided include: nandina, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, double-flowered Kerria, Spiraea, meadowsweet (Spiraea), cycad, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be divided include: peony, hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus, Rudbeckia, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Aglaonema, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, multi-headed green emperor, Nephrolepis, Aspidistra, etc. Flower species that can be divided by bulbs include: calla lily, Amaryllis, freesia, Lycoris, tulip, Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana), etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent when leaves have fallen, such as hibiscus syriacus, redbud (Cercis), elm-leaved plum (Prunus triloba), pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, abundant-flowered Chinese rose, Berberis thunbergii, Ligustrum sinense, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, nandina, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', gardenia, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, pruning should be done before transplanting; second, a good soil ball should be taken; third, watering and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon), Reineckea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and accuracy, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, Berberis thunbergii, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edged Euonymus, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum quihoui, etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum, firethorn, etc. For continuously flowering ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Lantana, Bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off residual flowers and withered stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., timely cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued flower production and flowering of lateral shoots, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the year, continue to do watering and spraying work well: first, keep the root soil moist, but there should be no water accumulation; second, continue to spray water on the leaf surface. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilization. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for sweet osmanthus that has already flowered, open a ring-shaped ditch and bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, begonia, crape myrtle, cotton rose and Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for nandina, firethorn in the fruit-viewing state, and southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet tree, etc., appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, begonia, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep and concentrate them for burning. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewashing can be done at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species that can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, bamboo-leaf podocarp, soapberry, horse chestnut, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Manglietia, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), mountain magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, yellow orchid (Michelia champaca), golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered Manglietia, broad-petaled Michelia, bald cypress, bamboo palm, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor, privet, Ligustrum quihoui, Viburnum macrocephalum, weeping crabapple, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, yew, oil tea (Camellia oleifera), etc. These seeds must be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, tulip tree (Liriodendron), red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood (Metasequoia), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria), Chinese tallow (Sapium), silk tree (Albizia), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria), cotton rose, southern sour jujube (Choerospondias), redbud, camptotheca, Bischofia, five-angle maple (Acer), etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be collected include: Salvia splendens, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, impatiens, four-o'clock (Mirabilis), Kochia, strawflower, cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), painted euphorbia, mimosa, dancing grass (Desmodium), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their above-ground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and wait until next spring to cut and plant separately.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, giant taro, red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by leaf surface spraying; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as calla lily, Cyclamen, Clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne, Pelargonium, Fuchsia, etc., increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and more spraying should be done to facilitate the expansion of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species that are relatively afraid of cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them survive the winter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilization. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Clivia, Cyclamen, Chinese orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian rhododendron, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, nandina, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), coralberry, golden bullet tree, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some extremely shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem (Fittonia), Boston fern, Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and leaves, diseased and pest branches, thin and weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out strong shortening; for binding materials that have been shaping for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or re-bound after removal, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches, causing dead branches and leaves.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree stump bonsai, they can be buried in leeward and sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the pot soil from freezing. The Yangtze River basin region should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leaf miner larvae, inchworms and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese white pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus chinensis, Fukien tea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Buxus sinica, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaved banyan, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, cycad, firethorn, Lantana, Tamarix, red maple, etc. Some cold-intolerant southern flower and tree species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and can be placed on the balcony at other times, such as bamboo palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, Areca palm, fishtail palm, king coconut, Pandanus, Schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouth large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand each accounting for 1/2, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small amount of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia figo, jasmine, Chloranthus, Aglaonema, coral flower, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, hibiscus, finger citron, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', golden pothos, Pelargonium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day and supplement with leaf surface spraying; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian rhododendron, etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time spray the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, dwarf philodendron, Aspidistra, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern, Anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, pothos, etc., all should be mainly sprayed and supplemented by watering to keep the pot soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilization. For potted flower species recovering from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, Cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium, Bromeliaceae, Chinese orchid (Cymbidium sinense), etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean (Fortunella), lemon, nandina, golden bullet tree, coralberry, firethorn, winter coral, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., apply 1 to 2 times of thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them pass the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the pot soil, and prevent the pot soil from compacting, continue to cover the pot soil surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, which should be paid more attention to. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on sunny days, 3 to 4 hours around noon, they can be moved indoors. The shade net set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, banyan, Fukien tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can be untied first; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for re-binding and fixing, which can avoid severe damage to the plant caused by too deep constriction marks. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, weeping crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases next year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, marking the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, African daisy, Clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum quihoui, privet, camphor, pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), bamboo-leaf podocarp, Podocarpus macrophyllus, soapberry, coralberry (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulch must be added. Flower and tree species mainly for heat preservation and cold protection include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink and other varieties), Chinese rose (referring to abundant-flowered Chinese rose, Elizabeth and other easy-to-root varieties), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, weeping crabapple, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, holly, Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis), Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa, etc. Some of these root cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and trees that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, silver-edged Euonymus, Pilea, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia, golden-edged Serissa, etc. If managed properly, complete roots can grow in the next spring, and they can be used for ground planting and cultivation of ball-shaped greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for bamboo-joint begonia, narrow-leaf begonia (Begonia), lotus-leaf begonia, Pelargonium, hibiscus, Fuchsia, jade plant, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, etc., and after spring begins, they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored, to be cut in the next spring, which can significantly speed up their rooting and improve the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, indoor bagging to graft red maple, feather maple; use apricot seedlings, peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union buried in soil to overwinter); use thick and strong branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scion, use excellent variety Chinese rose branches as scion, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cut, promoting the synchronization of interface healing and lower cut rooting, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent Chinese rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by low layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, sweet osmanthus, Hydrangea, purple magnolia, Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus), Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be divided and propagated in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, spicebush (Lindera), Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Mahonia, Buddleja, peony, broom (Cytisus), winter jasmine, Forsythia, jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), hedge bamboo (Bambusa), etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the next spring, and then cut and planted separately.

Herbaceous flower species that can be divided and propagated include: Bletilla, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental Bromeliaceae, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea, autumn zephyr lily, Aglaonema, Aspidistra, Bryophyllum, etc.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, maple mallow (Abutilon), etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected and dry-stored in November include: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, flower cypress (Chamaecyparis), Japanese flower cypress, Japanese flat cypress (Platycladus), silk tree, sweetgum (Liquidambar), camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood (Cornus), Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, Ligustrum quihoui, palm, camphor, pencil cedar, soapberry, wolfberry (Lycium), yew, southern magnolia, holly, Ilex cornuta, firethorn, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted in flower beds and transplanted for flower border arrangements in November include: dwarf catchfly, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale, etc.

    Species that can be transplanted as large trees in November include: camphor, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, sweet osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden, giant redbud, tulip tree, Magnolia × soulangeana, papaya, begonia, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound with straw rope, and a large soil ball taken (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches trimmed, with a good soil ball taken and the trunk bound. After large tree transplanting, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened to survive. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or bound with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water evaporation from the tree body.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, weeping crabapple, etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic tunnels to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the pot soil moist, not too wet. If the temperature is low and watering is too much, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf surface spraying should be given.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, nandina, winter coral, coral ardisia, etc., not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be frequently sprayed with water to facilitate the expansion and growth of flower buds, and can also make the fruit appear more colorful.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the leaf surface should also be frequently sprayed with water, so that the leaf color always remains green and bright. In relatively high-temperature greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia, green emperor, croton, silver queen, etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them survive the winter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is suitable at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions of plants due to too low water temperature, thereby affecting their safe wintering.

    2. Fertilization. For potted flowers placed indoors with a temperature above 15°C, species such as Western rhododendron, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Daphne, cineraria, Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia, tulip, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera, colorful Bromeliaceae, etc., continue to apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution, which can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, stop top dressing to help them normally dormancy and overwinter. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as begonia species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia × soulangeana, Manglietia, Lechang Michelia, Yunshan white orchid (Michelia), Michelia figo, golden-leaf Michelia, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor, Spiraea, sweet osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, palm, red maple, peony, Forsythia, peony (Paeonia), Hypericum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for small plants, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue to prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped shapes that have not completed pruning, and base fertilizer can be applied after pruning is completed.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, carry out all-round shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Fukien tea, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, oak (Quercus), Fraxinus chinensis, firethorn, Serissa, Chinese juniper, Podocarpus macrophyllus, wintersweet, begonia, etc., laying a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, the remaining old stems are cut off from their base, and all thin and weak branches are cut off; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, carry out strong shortening of the current-year branches, except for retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all other current-year branches, to facilitate the drawing of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flower beds, along roadsides and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, sweet osmanthus, camphor, plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia, Forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, Pittosporum, begonia, etc., cut off all those deformed branches, thin and weak branches, inner branches, diseased and pest branches, etc., and appropriately shorten the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, large palm trees can be peeled of their brown fiber for cleaning the trunk, so that they show their due ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, nandina, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, bottle orchid (Aglaonema?), bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, bamboo palm, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, deep-feather-split philodendron (Philodendron), Aglaia odorata, croton, Pachystachys, Pachystachys lutea, Brazilian iron (Dracaena), red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, silver queen, frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, etc., they should be placed indoors with a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or protected through winter with double-layer plastic tunnels.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, begonia species, azalea (Rhododendron), pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, crape myrtle, Buxus sinica, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, five-needle pine, Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus), Chinese juniper, Acer buergerianum, red maple, etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pot in leeward and sunny soil. Under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If encountering particularly cold weather, film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in polytunnels, greenhouses or rooms in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, ventilation must also be carried out well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stifled indoors for long periods, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not seep indoors, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, take care never to let cold wind blow directly onto the plants.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias and chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rotting of the stump's xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects and the like appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or polytunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia and aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide to kill them.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Belgian azaleas placed in polytunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers of the Yemianbao type, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mould is extremely likely to occur.

    The main bonsai plant species suitable for styling in November are: Buddhist pine, Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper, moss cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa'), Sargent's juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), Euonymus oxyphyllus, serissa, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese xylosma (Xylosma racemosum), Chinese holly, wintergreen, boxleaf holly, small-leaf box (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), Chinese elm, and Hall's crabapple (Malus halliana), etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and trained with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be untied in November and the trunk and branches re-tied and adjusted.

For new stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Japanese avens (Geum japonicum), firethorn and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting and branch pruning, plant them in sandy loam fields by the shallow-planting, high-mounding method, and style them after they sprout branches the following year.

For stumps that have been cultivated and styled for 1 to 2 years and have basically taken shape, in November, according to the styling characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, select a suitable pot, repot them, and pair with scholar's rocks and dots of moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-styled tall Japanese apricot stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Chaenomeles speciosa, etc., can be potted in suitable containers in November, with strengthened water management, and can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks and auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month's flower and tree care should focus on three aspects: first, doing a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, polytunnels and rooms; second, doing a good job of pruning and cleaning up open-ground flowers and trees and of turning and fertilizing the soil; third, doing a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral and African daisy, etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina, coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), wintergreen species, firethorn, palms, privet, camphor tree, Ligustrum quihoui, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings in December include: Japanese apricot (mainly varieties such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses and miniature roses); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (heel cuttings), spiraea and boxwood species, etc. Among these, Japanese apricot and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice-hull ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, ghost plant (Graptopetalum paraguayense), Echeveria, portulacaria, bryophyllum, kalanchoe, golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), wax begonia, bamboo-joint begonia, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, clerodendrum, lantana, Schefflera, daphne, pothos, and cordyline, etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-heart (golden-edged) Euonymus (Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-variegatus'), mahonia, hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, hiba arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata), serissa, firethorn, silver willow (Salix gracilistyla), and paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), etc. In addition, branches of trumpet creeper, lilac and grape can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings taken in spring the following year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent Japanese apricot varieties, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be cleft-grafted or cut-grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting apricot and peach sown that year, with the rootstock lifted first, then planted on the seedbed at a certain row spacing, with soil mounded above the graft union, even burying most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film for heat and moisture retention, and removing the plastic film in early spring the following year after the scion sprouts. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties; or use strong branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions onto the upper end, then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' sections into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film for moisture and heat retention, and removing the plastic film in spring the following year after the scion sprouts; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese apricot, camellia, osmanthus, banana shrub, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, bigleaf hydrangea, Reeves spiraea (Spiraea cantoniensis), Keteleer viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), thunberg spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), and pomegranate, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, ribbon grass, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, red wood sorrel, aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris, big blue lilyturf (Liriope muscari), Ophiopogon bodinieri, Japanese sacred lily (Rohdea japonica), bryophyllum, and Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum). When cutting off offsets from the base of a large variegated pineapple plant, they must be small plants that have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the cut-off offsets easily disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, palm bamboo, Japanese spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Chinese peashrub (Caragana sinica), forsythia, winter jasmine, Spanish jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum), jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia, sword leaf agave, fernleaf hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf'), and dwarf white-striped bamboo (Sasa fortunei), etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia species, globe amaranth species, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen and clivia, etc. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, Ligustrum quihoui, firethorn, coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), wintergreen species, camphor tree, and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack open and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure of sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and borders in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, and daisy, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in polytunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus and pansy, etc., and can be used the following spring for street displays.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, white magnolia, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry, papaya, Magnolia × soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree and weeping pagoda tree, etc. However, transplanting of evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palms, southern magnolia, camphor tree, rhododendron and wintergreen, etc. When transplanting, first strongly shorten the main shoot and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, a large root ball must be kept, the trunk bound with straw rope and wrapped with plastic film, and the cut surfaces of the trunk and large branches sealed with wax or wrapped in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, water must also be sprayed frequently on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: Japanese apricot, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Hall's crabapple (Malus halliana). Place them in polytunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips and pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) continue to be placed in polytunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic polytunnels with temperatures not below 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freeze damage, such as Asparagus retrofractus, asparagus fern, aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, palm bamboo, nandina, banana shrub, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', Sasa fortunei, and sago palm, etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not below 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Chamaedorea elegans, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, monstera, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus and Bambusa ventricosa, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic polytunnels. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not below 10°C, such as croton, caladium, peperomia, maranta, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, Fittonia, pineapple species, Pink Fittonia, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, clerodendrum, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Cycas revoluta, Hemigraphis, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in double-layer polytunnels with good sealing performance, appropriate heating must also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the polytunnel, to be removed after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, Japanese apricot, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Xylosma racemosum, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Calocedrus macrolepis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus virginiana, Geum japonicum, Chinese holly and Fraxinus hupehensis, they generally will not suffer freeze damage when temperatures are not below -10°C; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in polytunnels, greenhouses or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers and foliage and fruit ornamental plants must, besides maintaining a suitable indoor temperature, also be given ventilation, and doors and windows can be opened around noon when the temperature is highest during the day for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also take care not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, polytunnels and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it easily causes root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth and European narcissus, etc., and fruit ornamental species such as bitter orange, lemon, finger citron, Citrus microcarpa, Fortunella venosa, winter coral, Ardisia crenata and nandina, etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also give foliar spraying, to favor the swelling of flower buds, and also to increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both keep the potting soil moist and give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Pink Fittonia, Syngonium podophyllum, maranta, croton and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when room temperature has approached the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December is best in the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and replenish watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary polytunnels, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia liliiflora, Manglietia fordiana, banana shrub species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, cherry, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, Chinese peony, tree peony, forsythia, hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, Philadelphus incanus, Deutzia scabra, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, trumpet creeper, Rosa banksiae, hypericum, weeping willow, Cryptomeria fortunei, deodar cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus triloba, Prunus japonica, Exochorda racemosa, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, etc., in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried around the outer perimeter of the root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud and septic tank residue, etc., to lay a good material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, pineapple species, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip and freesia, etc., continue to apply 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to promote flower bud formation and blooming.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, Ligustrum quihoui, Fatsia japonica, Euonymus japonicus, Sabina komarovii, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens' and Photinia davidsoniae, etc.; ball-shaped plants include Chinese holly, Chinese bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, Japanese pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper and Chinese juniper, etc. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For open-ground flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palms, red-leaf plum, photinia, French plane, Japanese apricot and wintersweet, etc., carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is finished, bury fertilizer around the root system.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned rather than wired, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Chinese holly, Fukien tea, trident maple, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Calocedrus macrolepis, Chinese juniper, crabapple and papaya, etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants not repotted for many years, repot them in combination with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, for the former use triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl for control in time, and for the latter use thiophanate-methyl for control.

For species prone to scale insects among flowers and trees in greenhouses and polytunnels, such as bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, camellia and aspidistra, etc., first wipe once with a rag, then use pesticides such as Supracide for control.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose and Fukien tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

For the various scale insects that often appear on the trunks and large branches of open-ground flowering trees such as Japanese pittosporum, osmanthus, French plane, camellia, Ligustrum quihoui, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle and wintersweet, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scales, arrowhead scale, mealybugs and felt scales, etc., at this time spray with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos and buprofezin, which rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. For the needs of next year's seedling raising and mixing culture soil, use the winter slack time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake and tea-seed cake, etc., into water vats or pools, add water and seal for soaking and fermentation.

Pile dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs and branches in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn, forming burnt soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix and compost barnyard manure, pond mud and chicken and pigeon droppings with garden soil, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and mixing culture soil the following year.

    7. Mixing culture soil. Using the spare time in winter, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade and make up as much culture soil as possible, to meet the need for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally, 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice-hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer; the garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, roots and other debris, then mix thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing it into clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure and pond mud can be applied before turning; do not make beds for the time being, and after overwintering and freezing into clods, in early spring the following year open furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Buddhist pine, Thujopsis dolabrata, Sabina chinensis, Calocedrus macrolepis, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa', Chinese arborvitae, Juniperus procumbens, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Japanese black pine, Japanese white pine, Japanese red pine, Geum japonicum, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Euonymus oxyphyllus, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana sinica, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, Corylopsis sinensis, tamarisk, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles cathayensis, boxleaf holly, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fukien tea, Fraxinus hupehensis and Xylosma racemosum, etc.

For bonsai plants fixed by palm fiber (rope) or metal wire training and styling, if the fixing has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be untied and the plant re-tied and pulled with metal wire or palm rope.

For open-ground styled Japanese apricot stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, etc., after some necessary pruning and shaping, select a suitable pot and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used the following year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, careful management must be given to some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and spraying, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "third nine-day period", when most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, when cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperatures of the year occur. This month's flower care is mainly about doing a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, polytunnels and rooms, followed by tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the soil and preparing culture soil and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral and African daisy, etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen, firethorn, palms, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow and goldenrain tree, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: Japanese apricot (varieties such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (varieties such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda and miniature), cherry, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, Salix gracilistyla, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, hypericum, forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine and Jasminum grandiflorum, etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Portulacaria afra, jade plant, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, Pilea cadierei, Pilea peperomioides, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema modestum, pothos and cordyline, etc. In addition, branches of lilac, trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela coraeensis, Deutzia scabra, bigleaf hydrangea, plane tree and fig can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings taken in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent Japanese apricot varieties, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting apricot, mountain peach and wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, plant them on the seedbed and cover with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection. In Guangdong, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft four-season orange and kumquat, etc.; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties, with the 'Elizabeth' rose variety as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: Magnolia liliiflora, camellia, Japanese apricot, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, winter jasmine, forsythia, bigleaf hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate and red maple, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, Liriope muscari, Liriope spicata 'Variegata', ribbon grass, autumn zephyr lily, Zephyranthes carinata, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, Belamcanda chinensis, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, bryophyllum, pineapple species, Tulbaghia violacea, Alpinia zerumbet, monstera and aloe, etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, palm bamboo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, gardenia, Edgeworthia chrysantha, boxwood and Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds are available in the greenhouse, sow them immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, wintergreen species and Ardisia crenata can be picked, treated and sand-stratified for germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds crack open and show white.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including magnolia species, banana shrub species and photinia species, wintergreen species, etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out and rubbed and washed again, and fresh clean fine sand replaced for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, replenish with spraying water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. for heat and moisture retention.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, in regions that are not too cold, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold and daisy, etc.; in colder regions, sowings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy and primrose, etc., can be potted and first placed in simple plastic polytunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, white magnolia, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry, papaya, saucer magnolia (Magnolia × soulangeana), crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, Japanese spiraea (Spiraea japonica), paper bush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree and weeping pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), etc. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), etc., this month, except in special circumstances, transplanting should generally be advanced to December or delayed to February; of course, in sheltered locations, with strong shortening pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, red azalea (Rhododendron simsii), crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus and drooping euonymus (Euonymus oxyphyllus), etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, Perny holly (Ilex pernyi), Chinese holly and Chinese xylosma (Xylosma racemosum), etc., strong shortening pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous stumps or evergreen stumps, they should be cultivated by the shallow-planting, high-mounding method, and covered with straw curtains for cold protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; the slightest negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature each different flower species can endure, create a special environment for safe overwintering for them, either in a greenhouse, in a polytunnel, indoors, or planted in open ground. In simple plastic polytunnels with temperatures not below 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as Ming fern (Asparagus retrofractus), asparagus fern, aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, palm bamboo, nandina, Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), banana shrub, Goering's cymbidium (Cymbidium goeringii), cymbidium (Cymbidium), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), daphne, sago palm, sweet flag (Acorus calamus), fernleaf hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf') and dwarf bamboo (Sasa fortunei), etc. In double-layer plastic polytunnels with temperatures not below 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), Michelia alba, parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans), mock lime (Aglaia odorata), calla lily, split-leaf philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), monstera, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, sword-leaf cymbidium (Cymbidium ensifolium), Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium sinense), night-blooming cereus, epiphyllum, Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea and lantana, etc. In double-layer plastic polytunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, caladium, arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), maranta, pineapple species, peperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, nerve plant (Fittonia), red (green) ivy (Hemigraphis), peace lily (Spathiphyllum 'Mauna Loa'), imperial green philodendron (Philodendron 'Imperial Green'), silver queen aglaonema (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'), mock lime, cymbidium hybridum (Cymbidium hybridum), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), desert rose, pink fittonia (Pink Fittonia), poinsettia, golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea) and coral plant (Cyrtanthera carnea), etc.; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the polytunnel, and adding straw curtains can be stopped only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it easily causes freeze damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, Japanese apricot, crabapple species, red azalea (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Chinese xylosma (Xylosma racemosum), crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, large-leaved calocedrus (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese arborvitae, Chinese bayberry (Myrica rubra), Chinese holly, wintergreen and Hubei ash (Fraxinus hupehensis), etc., they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pot; when temperatures are not below -10°C, freeze damage generally does not occur, and in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in polytunnels, greenhouses or indoors, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining a suitable air temperature, ventilation must also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon when the temperature is highest during the day for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and polytunnels during each cold air incursion; if broken glass or torn film is found, plug and repair it in time, to avoid potted flowers freezing. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or polytunnel, to prevent smoke damage and other causes of flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at around 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 additional hours of light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted Japanese apricot, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall's crabapple (Malus halliana) and winter jasmine, etc., can also be placed in polytunnels at around 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) and freesias, etc., already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for the watering management of potted flowers, the most important thing first is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it easily causes adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot or death. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, polytunnels and rooms, keeping the potting soil moist is appropriate; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For the vast majority of foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink fittonia (Pink Fittonia), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), maranta and croton, etc., when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can endure, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe and pot marigold, etc., and fruit ornamental species such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), kumquat, Hong Kong kumquat (Fortunella venosa) and winter coral, etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also must spray the plants, to favor the swelling of flower buds, and also to increase the bright color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water; replenish watering in time for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering in time; especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants, also give appropriate foliar spraying around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), saucer magnolia (Magnolia × soulangeana), Ford's manglietia (Manglietia fordiana), banana shrub species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, Buddhist pine, cherry, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, Chinese schima (Schima superba), Ping's machilus (Machilus pingii), Chinese tupelo (Nyssa sinensis), camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), tree peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, sweet viburnum (Viburnum odoratissimum), Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, Japanese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), tulip tree, scabra deutzia (Deutzia scabra), mock orange (Philadelphus incanus), banks rose (Rosa banksiae), decipiens elaeocarpus (Elaeocarpus decipiens), golden weeping willow (Salix × aureo-pendula), weeping Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila var. pendula), Fortune's cryptomeria (Cryptomeria fortunei), Taiwania (Taiwania cryptomerioides), deodar cedar, Chinese scholar tree, weeping pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), pearl bush (Exochorda racemosa), rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, black bamboo (Phyllostachys nigra), pomegranate and loquat, etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, then while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud and septic tank cleanings, etc., around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at around 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth, tulip, Neoregelia (Neoregelia), clivia, bird of paradise and crab claw cactus, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to favor plant growth and flower bud formation and blooming.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in polytunnels, since the plants are dormant in winter, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped plants not yet pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banks rose (Rosa banksiae), trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, French plane, Chinese tallow, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, palms and grape, etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of the root system, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned with wiring as a supplement, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, Chinese xylosma (Xylosma racemosum), Hubei ash (Fraxinus hupehensis), Japanese water avens (Geum japonicum), Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa and Chinese juniper, etc., continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants not repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, Japanese apricot species, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry and red-leaf plum, etc., that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles and the like, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape and crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized way, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For white wax scale (Ceroplastes ceriferus), Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scales, arrowhead scale, mealybugs and soft scales, etc., appearing on the trunks and branches of Japanese pittosporum, French plane, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet and photinia, etc., spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin and lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For the scale insects and sooty mould appearing simultaneously on bitter orange, finger citron and kumquat plants in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe off the sooty mould patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake and tea-seed cake, etc., into water pools or vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; pile withered grass, branches and fallen leaves in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn, to make burnt soil by oneself, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix and compost barnyard manure, pond mud, tobacco powder and chicken and pigeon droppings with garden soil, which can be used as fertilizer for mixing culture soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing into Clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer and farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing into clods, in early spring open furrows and make beds, for use in sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for styling must be those with soft branches, good toughness and easy styling operations, such as Buddhist pine, (Calocedrus macrolepis), ginkgo, boxleaf holly, (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa'), Chinese juniper, serissa, (Juniperus procumbens), (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, Japanese black pine, (Geum japonicum), (Caragana sinica), (Corylopsis sinensis), (Euonymus oxyphyllus), banyan and wisteria, etc. After styling, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic polytunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which favors the healing of parts that may have been damaged during styling.

For plants styled 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be untied and the plant re-trained and pulled.

    In January, strict management must be given to some shallow-pot stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, damaging the plant's fibrous roots, and possibly causing the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on the small rocks from dying after freezing; it is best to place them in a non-freezing location and give regular watering and spraying, to ensure they can overwinter safely.