What should I do if the leaves of a parlour palm develop spots?
This is a disease caused by an unsuitable growing environment or improper care and management. The solutions are as follows: 1. Fungicides can be sprayed to control it; wettable powders such as chlorothalonil, carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl and zineb at 1000 times dilution are all suitable. 2. Place it in a semi-shaded spot or an environment with scattered light for care.
This is a disease caused by an unsuitable growing environment or improper care and management. The solutions are as follows:
1. Fungicides can be sprayed to control it; wettable powders such as chlorothalonil, carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl and zineb at 1000 times dilution are all suitable.
2. Place it in a semi-shaded spot or an environment with scattered light for care; water so that the soil dries out between waterings, and do not water too frequently; for fertilizing, simply apply light fertilizer frequently during the growing season; it can grow at temperatures between 15 and 30 degrees, and the overwintering temperature should preferably be above 10 degrees, and ventilate as much as possible when the temperature is suitable; during the growing period, spray clean water upward onto the plant to increase air humidity.
Is the parlour palm toxic?
The parlour palm's plant shape closely resembles a tropical coconut palm, and its form is small and exquisite, beautiful and distinctive, hence the name parlour palm. In addition, it is shade-tolerant, so it is very suitable as a small to medium-sized indoor potted plant and is an excellent indoor ornamental plant. It can be seen that the parlour palm is not toxic and can be kept indoors.
Hydroponic growing method for the parlour palm
1. Watering: in summer, water the parlour palm 2 or 3 times a day; in winter, control the amount of watering. Wash the fixing substrate every 6-8 weeks, especially in summer, to prevent harmful substances from harming the parlour palm. The pH value of the parlour palm's nutrient solution needs to be checked frequently; if it is too alkaline, the parlour palm's leaves will turn yellow. The parlour palm has a strong water-absorbing capacity, so when the water level drops, promptly top up the water to the specified position.
2. Light: the parlour palm prefers a shaded environment, so a hydroponically grown parlour palm should not be placed near a south window; it should be placed on a north, east or west windowsill, or in a comparable spot. A parlour palm grown in a darker place has dark green leaves, while under direct light the leaf color gradually turns yellow-green. Too much strong light can cause scorched leaves and black spots; 60% shade netting can be used for shading, which keeps the parlour palm's leaves emerald green and growing well.
3. Temperature: the optimum growing temperature for the parlour palm is between 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and in winter it must not go below 10°C. In winter, do a good job of keeping the parlour palm warm so that it overwinters safely.
4. Fertilizing: during the growing period, apply a hydroponic nutrient solution once every 2-3 weeks. For example, 901 soilless cultivation nutrient solution or Huabao, which needs to be diluted 1000-1500 times.
The uses of the parlour palm
1. Ornamental value: the parlour palm plant is small and exquisite, with a graceful shape and elegant bearing, dark green and glossy leaves, and flat-spreading fronds; a mature plant is umbrella-shaped, dignified and stately, simple yet elegant, with unrestrained fronds, lustrous as jade, giving a feeling of sincerity and simplicity and full of vitality, and it has high ornamental value.
2. Accenting a room: the parlour palm is shade-tolerant, so it is very suitable as a small to medium-sized indoor potted plant; placed on a desk or tabletop it is a treasured item on the stand, and it is also suitable for hanging indoors to decorate the space, adding a tropical atmosphere and charm to the interior. Placed in a corner of a room or on a coffee table, it can add a lively touch to the interior, giving it a charming tropical scenery.
3. Purifying the air: the parlour palm can effectively remove benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from a room, and is called a "high-efficiency air purifier"; it is very suitable for placing indoors or in newly renovated rooms to improve indoor air quality.
The above isIs the parlour palm toxic?, the hydroponic method and uses introduced; if you like the parlour palm, you can take a look and learn about the parlour palm hydroponic method.
Parlour palm Chamaedorea elegans parlour palm illustrated guide: how to grow the parlour palm / how to propagate the parlour palm
Parlour palm profileParlour palm Chamaedorea elegans
Growing methods and precautions for the parlour palm, an introduction to the parlour palm
The parlour palm is a small evergreen shrub, and its potted height generally does not exceed 1 m. Its stem is upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular markings on it. The leaves generally grow at the top of the stem, pinnately parted, with lanceolate segments, alternate, dark green and glossy. They are 14-22 cm long and 2-3 cm wide, and the bases of the top two pinnae are often fused into a fishtail shape; young leaves are green, old leaves are dark green, and the surface is glossy, like a wax product. The spadix is axillary, with yellow flowers in small spherical shapes, dioecious; the male inflorescence is slightly upright, and the female inflorescence droops slightly when nutritional conditions are good; the berry is orange-yellow. The flowering period is in spring. The fronds spread flat, and a mature plant is umbrella-shaped.
The parlour palm (scientific name Chamaedorea elegans), also known as dwarf coconut palm, parlour palm and dwarf palm. It belongs to the palm family, genus Chamaedorea, and is also known as dwarf coconut palm, etc.; it is native to Mexico and Guatemala. In addition, it is shade-tolerant, so it is very suitable as a small to medium-sized indoor potted plant to decorate indoor environments such as living rooms, studies, meeting rooms and hotel service desks, adding a tropical atmosphere and charm to the interior. Placed in a corner of a room or on a coffee table, it can add a lively touch to the interior, giving it a charming tropical scenery.
Morphological characteristics of the parlour palm
When potted, the parlour palm's plant height does not exceed 1 m; its stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring markings on it. The leaves emerge from the top of the stem, are pinnately compound, fully parted, with broadly lanceolate segments and 20-40 pinnate leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green and glossy. The plant flowers in spring, with a spicate inflorescence that is axillary, dioecious; the male flowers are slightly upright, and the female inflorescence droops slightly when nutritional conditions are good; the flowers are yellow and bead-like; the small berries it produces are mostly orange-red or yellow.
Plant height 4-5 m, stem slender. Leaves terminal, pinnately compound and arching, with a sharp tip at the tail and 2 lobes at the apex. The spadix droops, paniculate, flowers unisexual, monoecious.
The optimum growing temperature for the parlour palm is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters a dormant state, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
The parlour palm is a perennial evergreen small shrub of the palm family, genus Chamaedorea, with an upright, solitary, dark green stem that has irregular markings. The leaves are pinnately parted, with lanceolate, dark green, glossy segments. There are about 120 species in the same genus, mainly distributed in the tropical regions of Central America. It likes high temperature, high humidity and a semi-shaded environment. In plant taxonomy it is an evergreen dwarf shrub or small tree of the palm family, and the plant is short. Its English species name actually means graceful. Because its plant shape closely resembles a tropical coconut palm and its form is small and exquisite, beautiful and distinctive, it is named the parlour palm.
Ecological habits of the parlour palm
It likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30 degrees; at 13 degrees it enters the dormant period, and the lowest winter overwintering temperature is 3 degrees. For the parlour palm's cultivation substrate, a well-drained, moist and fertile loam is best; when potting, a mixture of leaf mold and peat soil plus 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer can generally be used as the substrate. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; generally, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month during the growing season, and apply little or no fertilizer in late autumn and winter. Repot once every 2-3 years in spring. When watering the parlour palm, the principle is to keep it moist rather than dry, and just keep the potting soil consistently moist. In summer and autumn when the air is dry, frequently spray water on the plant to increase the ambient air humidity, which benefits its growth and at the same time keeps the leaf surface dark green and glossy; in winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering to help it overwinter. The parlour palm likes semi-shaded conditions and avoids direct sunlight in hot seasons. Under strong sun its leaf color fades or turns yellow, and scorched leaves and black spots appear, losing its ornamental value. In addition, under high temperature and high humidity, the parlour palm is prone to brown spot disease. If brown spot disease is found, promptly use 800-1000 times thiophanate or chlorothalonil for control. When the air is dry and ventilation is poor, scale insects are also prone to occur. If scale insects are found, besides scraping them off manually, you can also spray 800-1000 times omethoate for control.
Cultivation techniques for the parlour palm
For the parlour palm's cultivation substrate, a well-drained, moist and fertile loam is best; when potting, a mixture of leaf mold and peat soil plus 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer can generally be used as the substrate. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; generally, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month during the growing season, and apply little or no fertilizer in late autumn and winter. Repot once every 2-3 years in spring. When watering, the principle is to keep it dry rather than wet, and just keep the potting soil consistently moist. In summer and autumn when the air is dry, frequently spray water on the plant to increase the ambient air humidity, which benefits its growth and at the same time keeps the leaf surface dark green and glossy; in winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering to help it overwinter. The parlour palm likes semi-shaded conditions and fears direct sunlight. Under strong sun its leaf color fades or turns yellow, and scorched leaves and black spots appear, losing its ornamental value. In addition, under high temperature and high humidity, the parlour palm is prone to brown spot disease. If brown spot disease is found, promptly use 800-1000 times thiophanate or chlorothalonil for control. When the air is dry and ventilation is poor, scale insects are also prone to occur. If scale insects are found, besides scraping them off manually, you can also spray 800-1000 times omethoate for control. When seeded seedlings grow to 10 cm tall, they can be transplanted into nutrient pots. The cultivation substrate is peat, perlite, ceramsite, etc. After planting, the first application of nutrient solution should be thorough, until exudate is seen in the tray at the bottom of the pot. For regular replenishment of the solution, replenish once every 10-15 days; replenish water in time according to the moisture condition of the substrate, but do not replenish water on solution-replenishment days. Before each water replenishment, first pour out the exudate in the tray; if no disease occurs, it can be reused, otherwise it should be poured away. When there is no exudate in the tray, water should be applied promptly. For each solution or water replenishment, it is best to use a small watering can for sprinkling irrigation; for large-scale cultivation, sprinkler irrigation facilities can be installed to spray the nutrient mist directly. This can both rinse the substrate and increase the air humidity around the plant, benefiting normal plant growth.
From October to February of the following year in winter, this is the parlour palm's relatively dormant period (night temperature 12-14°C); the amount of watering should be controlled to prevent symptoms such as root rot, yellow leaves and necrosis caused by excessively low temperatures. During the winter heating period in northern regions, the room temperature can generally be maintained at 15-20°C or 25°C; at this time the indoor air is dry, so attention should be paid to replenishing water, and it is best to spray water on the leaf surface 1-2 times a day, and the flower pot should not be placed close to a stove, radiator or air conditioner, to prevent acute water loss from the leaves, causing dry tips, yellow leaves, or even death. In addition, in winter, place the flower pot in a sunny spot indoors to facilitate photosynthesis in the plant.
Soilless cultivation
The soilless cultivation technique for growing the parlour palm uses an inorganic chemical fertilizer solution, that is, the nutrient solution cultivation method. The parlour palm prefers a shaded environment and should not be placed near a south window; it should be placed on a north, east or west windowsill, or in a comparable spot. In a darker place the leaf color is dark green, while under direct light the leaf color gradually turns yellow-green. Too much strong light can cause scorched leaves and black spots. The optimum growing temperature is between 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and in winter it must not go below 10°C.
For watering, grasp the principle of keeping it moist rather than dry, and keep the potting soil moist year-round. In winter, appropriately reduce the amount of water, and it is best to water with cool boiled water. In summer, clean rainwater may be used. Frequently spray water on the leaves and the surrounding ground to maintain relatively high air humidity.
Management table
Growing temperature: between 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and in winter it must not go below 10°C.
Sunlight: prefers a shaded environment, 60% shade netting.
Cultivation substrate: river sand or 1/2 vermiculite + 1/2 perlite
Fertilizing: during the growing period, apply a hydroponic nutrient solution once every 2-3 weeks. For example, 901 soilless cultivation nutrient solution or Huabao, diluted 1000-1500 times.
Watering: in summer, water 2-3 times a day; in winter, control the amount of watering. Wash the fixing substrate every 6-8 weeks, especially in summer. This prevents harmful substances from harming the plant. Frequently check the pH value of the nutrient solution; if it is too alkaline, the leaves will turn yellow. The parlour palm has a strong water-absorbing capacity, so when the water level drops, promptly top up the water to the specified position.
It is important to master the management methods for soilless cultivation of the parlour palm; direct sunlight should be avoided as much as possible to prevent the nutrient solution from evaporating too quickly, and it can be placed in a bright place. After the roots have filled out, remove 1/3 of the roots, remove the withered and yellow leaves, rinse the substrate, and repot into a pot one size larger.
Nutrient solution
1. Easily soluble salts should be used to prepare the nutrient solution.
2. Mineral nutrient elements should be controlled within 4‰. Control the amount of trace elements used.
3. Measure the pH value of the nutrient solution promptly to maintain the acidity and alkalinity required by the plant.
4. The types of various elements in the nutrient solution vary with different plants and different growing conditions.
The parlour palm is called the desk coconut. If it is paired with a plain and elegant container, it looks even more beautiful and distinctive. Choose a ceramic or glass container with no hole at the bottom or an opening on the side, and it must suit the size of the plant. First spread clean large or medium ceramsite as the fixing substrate, about 2-3 cm thick, then place the plant into the flower pot. Try to spread the roots out in all directions, then fill with clean ceramsite, 3-5 cm from the pot rim. Note that during the growing period the roots must be washed clean. Remove the old roots, spread the roots out, and place them in the center of the flower pot. After transplanting, inject the prepared diluted nutrient solution until it reaches 1/5 of the container's height.
Pre-harvest management
The placement density is 6-18 pots per square meter, depending on the size of the plant. The parlour palm likes a slightly moist, well-drained soil environment. Besides applying a small amount of leaf mold as base fertilizer at the base of the flower pot when planting, a thin liquid fertilizer should also be applied once every half month during the vigorous growth stage. The parlour palm likes a loosely shaded environment and avoids direct sunlight; in particular, if a plant that has long been kept in a shaded environment is suddenly placed in a spot with strong direct sunlight, its leaves will be scorched. Just keep the environment properly ventilated. The parlour palm likes a warm environment; its optimum growing temperature is 16-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
Management and care
After being brought out in spring, it should be placed in a shaded spot, avoiding direct sunlight, with relatively bright light being sufficient. When the plant is relatively large, repot it in time. It has relatively high requirements for environmental humidity; for watering, grasp the principle of keeping it moist rather than dry, to keep the potting soil moist. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the plant to increase the ambient air humidity. This plant does not have high fertilizer requirements; from May to October, simply apply cake fertilizer water twice a month.
Seeds should be sown as soon as they are collected; at a temperature of about 25°C, germination takes about 3 months. Parlour palm seedlings tend to tiller more, so they should be divided in time. The plant height should preferably be controlled between 40-60 cm, so fertilizing should not be excessive; generally, applying thin liquid fertilizer 3-4 times at the seedling stage and in spring and autumn is sufficient; repot once every 2-3 years in spring to facilitate growth.
Key care points
To grow the parlour palm well, the issues to note are:
Light: the parlour palm likes semi-shade; under strong sunlight the leaf color turns scorched yellow; if it is kept in a place lacking light for a long time, the plant becomes lanky. So indoors it is best placed in a bright spot by a window.
Temperature: the parlour palm likes warmth; the optimum growing temperature is 18-24 degrees Celsius, and at 13 degrees Celsius it enters dormancy. In winter it is best not to go below 10 degrees Celsius.
Watering: the parlour palm likes water; during the growing period keep the soil moist, and during the dormant period water only after two-thirds of the potting soil has dried. In addition, the parlour palm likes high air humidity; if it is too dry, the leaf tips turn brown. So during dry periods such as autumn, measures such as frequently spraying water on the leaf surface should be taken to increase the air humidity around the plant.
Fertilizing: during the growing period, apply a compound fertilizer to the plant once a month.
Potting soil: growing it in a well-drained, loose and fertile loam is best.
Propagation: the parlour palm is generally propagated by seeds.
Hydroponic care
1. Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn scorched yellow, but when it is too shady the leaf color will also fade.
2. The parlour palm is most beautiful at a plant shape of 30-50 cm; when the plant is too tall, the bare lower part reduces its ornamental value, so when growing it, small plants can be grown below. 3. Obtaining hydroponic material: use the pot-washing method. After washing in water, new roots can grow in a few days.
With the current nutrient solution formulations, most plants can be grown hydroponically, but careful nursing is required, otherwise the flowers are easily killed by nutrition! See Potted Plants Converted to Hydroponics [1]
Precautions
To grow the parlour palm well, the following technical issues should be noted:
① Beware of scorched edges caused by too much light. Since the parlour palm likes a relatively shaded environment, when grown indoors it should be placed near a north window, east window or in another spot with bright scattered light; the parlour palm fears strong direct light most; even brief exposure to the sun will cause leaf scorch and yellow leaf color. Conversely, if it is kept in a too dry and dark place for a long time, the leaf color will also fade and lose its gloss.
② Suitable growing temperature. Generally the optimum growing temperature is 20-30°C; in winter the indoor temperature should be between 12-14°C, and the lowest temperature must not be below 10°C.
③ Maintain the surrounding air humidity. Spray water on the leaf surface frequently to increase air humidity.
④ Do not use acidic soil for the potting soil; a small amount of clay should also be added.
⑤ Repot once every 3 years.
⑥ At the seedling stage, applying thin liquid fertilizer 3-4 times in spring and autumn is sufficient.
The parlour palm is also known as the dwarf coconut palm. Its plant shape is just like a tropical coconut palm, evergreen all year round, petite and lovely. Placing one pot indoors can recreate a tropical scene with plenty of charm. Because the parlour palm's root system is relatively fine, a loose and fertile potting soil should be chosen when potting; using heavy clay soil easily causes root rot. Because it likes a relatively shaded environment, when grown indoors it should be placed near a north window, east window or in another spot with bright scattered light. The parlour palm fears strong direct light most. Even brief exposure to the sun will cause leaf scorch and yellow leaf color. Conversely, if it is kept in a too dark place for a long time, the leaf color will also fade and its gloss will weaken. The optimum growing temperature is 20°C-30°C; in winter the room temperature should preferably be between 12°C-14°C, and must not be below 10°C. The parlour palm has a strong water-absorbing capacity; during the growing period the potting soil needs to be kept moist frequently, and during the dormant period watering should be controlled. In summer, watering should be ample, and the leaf surface should also be sprayed with water frequently to increase air humidity. To meet indoor ornamental needs, the plant height should preferably be controlled between 40 cm and 60 cm, so fertilizing should not be excessive. Generally, applying thin liquid fertilizer 3-4 times at the seedling stage and in spring and autumn is sufficient. The ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus in the fertilizer is best at 1.5:1.2. This ratio can both promote sturdy stems and improve leaf gloss. Repot once every 2-3 years in spring to facilitate growth. Because the parlour palm is difficult to root from cuttings, it is mainly propagated by sowing.
Propagation methods of the parlour palm: seed propagation
Selection: before sowing, the seeds must first be selected; whether the seeds are selected well or not is directly related to whether sowing succeeds.
1. It is best to use seeds collected in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. Choose plump seeds with no damage or deformity.
3. Choose seeds free of pests and diseases. Disinfection: disinfection includes two concepts, one referring to disinfecting the seeds, and the other referring to disinfecting the sowing substrate. For household seed disinfection, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, then use warm hot water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. For disinfecting the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it by stirring until hot; any pest or disease will be scalded to death.
Germination promotion: soak the seeds in warm hot water for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped.
Sowing: for tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with the hands or other tools, you can moisten one end of a toothpick with water, stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, cover with substrate 1 cm thick, then put the sowing flower pot into water, with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the flower pot's height, letting the water slowly soak up (this method is called the "pot soaking method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up with the hands or other tools, put the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate, with a covering thickness of 2-3 times the seed size. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-holed watering can to wet the sowing substrate; afterward, when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again, still taking care that the force of watering is not too great, to avoid washing the seeds up;
Management after sowing: after sowing in late autumn, early spring or winter, when a cold wave with low temperatures occurs, the flower pot can be wrapped in plastic film to help keep it warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning, or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak and spindly; after most of the seeds have emerged, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space between them; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.
A robustly growing plant can flower in 3-4 years; when flowering, it can set seed after artificial pollination, and the fruit needs 6-7 months to mature. Sowing should preferably be done as soon as the seeds are collected, and spring sowing is preferable; choose plump, large, fresh seeds, wash the berries, rub the seeds, and sow them directly on a river sand seedling bed, using plastic film to keep them warm for seedling raising. The soil should be kept moist, and the temperature should be controlled at 24-26°C; generally it takes 3-6 months to germinate and emerge. When the seedlings have 3-4 leaves, a thin application of decomposed human waste water or 0.3% urea solution can be made, mixed evenly with a small amount of potassium sulfate and poured on, to promote robust growth. The following spring, thinning can be done, and the seedlings can be potted for cultivation and care.
Division propagation
Choose a mixed substrate of peat and perlite, use a plastic flower pot with a diameter of 15 cm to 20 cm, and add ceramsite particles at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Take a parlour palm that has been grown soilless in a pot for more than one year, divide it in spring together with repotting, and plant it in the flower pot with the above mixed substrate, with 3 to 4 plants per pot.
From October to February of the following year is the parlour palm's relatively dormant period; in northern regions, place it in a sunny spot indoors in winter, with the temperature kept at 15°C to 25°C. If the air is dry, spray water on the leaf surface every day to keep it moist; when the indoor temperature is low, water less, and water again only when the surface layer looks dry, because with low temperatures and too much water, root rot easily occurs. In northern summers, the scattered light indoors is suitable for the parlour palm's growth, but care should be taken to spray water on the leaf surface frequently to keep it moist.
After planting, the first application of comprehensive nutrient solution should be thorough, until exudate is seen in the tray; normally, replenish the solution and water according to routine, but do not replenish water when replenishing the solution, and keep the substrate moist.
The parlour palm likes a warm and humid environment and likes to grow in fertile, loose soil with good aggregate structure. The optimum growing temperature is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters a dormant state, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C. For potting, you can use leaf mold, peat soil, or dried pond mud or vegetable garden soil, plus 1/4 coarse river sand or coal cinder particles, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer and a small amount of superphosphate, mixed evenly as base fertilizer for the potting soil. For small seedling pots, 3 plants are suitable; for medium pots, 5 plants are suitable; after potting, water with settling water, and place in a semi-shaded shed for cultivation; after new leaves emerge, switch to normal management. During the growing period from April to October, apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1-2 times a month; the fertilizer is mainly decomposed peanut bran water, or a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer diluted with water and poured on. Topdress with compound fertilizer every 15-20 days to promote rapid growth and lush greenness; apply 5-8 grams for small pots and 10-12 grams for medium pots. The potting soil should preferably be moist; water only after the potting soil looks dry. Spray a solution of 0.2% urea + 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate every 10-15 days to promote robust plant growth and dark green leaf color. In late autumn and winter, apply little or no fertilizer. Repotting every 2-3 years in mid-to-late March of spring is preferable. During the growing period, water with the principle of keeping it dry rather than wet, and keep it ventilated and cool, which benefits plant growth and can improve disease resistance. Just keep the potting soil moist; if there is a lot of rainfall or excessive watering, the potting soil being too wet easily causes the lower leaves of the plant to rot and become diseased, leading to the occurrence and spread of black spot disease, causing leaves to wither and yellow or even die.
Humidity: keep the relative air humidity at 75-85%. The basic requirement for cuttings to root is that, before the cuttings have rooted, it must be ensured that the cuttings are fresh and tender and can carry out photosynthesis to produce rooting substances. However, cuttings that have not rooted cannot absorb enough water to maintain their internal water balance, so the evaporation of water from the cuttings must be reduced by misting: under shaded conditions, mist the cuttings 3-5 times a day; the higher the temperature on sunny days, the more times to mist, and the lower the temperature on cloudy and rainy days, the fewer times to mist or not at all. But excessive misting makes the cuttings susceptible to infection by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.
Light: it cannot do without sunlight, because the cuttings still need to continue photosynthesis to produce nutrients and rooting substances to supply their rooting needs. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cuttings, and the more water consumed, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cuttings are taken, 50-80% of the sunlight must be blocked; after the root system has grown, gradually remove the shade netting: on sunny days, remove the shade netting at 4:00 every afternoon, and put the shade netting back before 9:00 the next morning.
The parlour palm grows relatively fast in a high-temperature, high-humidity, semi-shaded environment; it fears direct sunlight, and under strong sun its leaf color fades or turns yellow, and scorched leaves and black spots appear, losing its ornamental value. It is relatively shade-tolerant; during the seedling cultivation period or growing period, especially in summer and autumn, the shading degree is generally 60%, but in winter and spring it is preferable to give relatively bright scattered light. Being displayed indoors for 1-2 months will not have much effect on plant growth and ornamentation, but during the display period attention should be paid to spraying water on the leaf surface to clean the leaves and make the leaf color dark green, glossy and bright. Regularly expose it to scattered light and pay attention to fertilizer and water management to improve the ornamental effect.
High temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation easily cause black spot disease, especially during the vigorous growing period from April to November; attention must be paid to disease prevention. Once withered and scorched leaf tips are found, promptly spray 50% thiophanate or 50% chlorothalonil at 800-1000 times dilution for control, and at the same time ensure the room is ventilated and cool and breathable, and appropriately apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as plant ash, to promote robust plant growth. The soil should be well drained, not too dry, not too wet; during the growing period the potting soil should be kept moist to benefit plant growth and improve disease resistance. Dry air and poor ventilation easily cause scale insect damage; you can spray 40% omethoate at 1000 times dilution or 25% buprofezin wettable powder at 1500-2000 times dilution, or 20% fenvalerate at 1500 times dilution for control, and depending on the pest situation spray again after 10-15 days.
Renewal propagation
Carry out girdling in advance to callus. After late May, keep the stem-top cutting at a height of 15 cm to 20 cm, then strip off the old leaves below this height cleanly, exposing the stem. Then use a sharp knife to girdle below a certain node of the stem to a width of 0.6 cm to 1 cm, and peel off the stem skin. After that, air-dry for a week to let the wound heal naturally on the mother plant. During this period, mist the leaf surface in the morning and evening to appropriately increase air humidity, and place it in 50% to 70% shade to ensure effective accumulation through photosynthesis.
Carry out air layering in time. One week after the girdling and callusing treatment, use plastic film to wrap the girdled area, tie the lower part of the girdle tightly with string, fill it with moss mixed with soil at suitable moisture, then tie the upper opening tightly as well. Generally, replenish water once about every 10 days, about 2 to 4 times in total, and rooting can be seen in about a month. After rooting, on a fine day cut off the cutting, remove the film, and let the roots retain as much moss mixed with soil as possible; after planting, cultivate it in a cool place for a period, and then it can be managed normally like the original mother plant; the new plant will bring new vitality.
The uses of the parlour palm: household uses
It can simultaneously purify benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air, and is a "high-efficiency air purifier" among plants. It is very suitable for placing indoors or in newly renovated rooms.
Application value
The parlour palm plant is small and exquisite, with a graceful shape and elegant bearing, dark green and glossy leaves, and strong shade tolerance; it is an excellent small to medium-sized indoor potted foliage plant. The fronds spread flat, and a mature plant is umbrella-shaped, dignified and stately, simple yet elegant, with unrestrained fronds, lustrous as jade, giving a feeling of sincerity and simplicity and full of vitality. Small plants are suitable for planting in small pots and placed on a desk or tabletop as a treasured item on the stand, and are also suitable for hanging indoors to decorate the space. Larger plants can be displayed in halls, meeting rooms, airport lounges and other places; as an important foliage plant for beautifying interiors, it has become popular all over the world.
Pest and disease control for the parlour palm
The common pests and diseases of the parlour palm include the brown soft scale and anthracnose.
1. Brown soft scale. Pest symptoms: the leaf color becomes lighter, with pale spots; in severe cases the plant weakens, affecting growth and losing ornamental value. Control methods: (1) use the Chilocorus kuwanae ladybird to control the pest with a pest; (2) when larvae appear in large numbers, spray 40% omethoate at 1000 times dilution, once a week.
2. Anthracnose. Disease symptoms: at the beginning of the disease the leaf tips are black-brown, the lesions slowly expand, and in the later stage the leaf lesions merge into one patch. Control methods: (1) strengthen care, do not bruise the leaves, spray more water to keep the leaves clean; (2) in summer, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture of equal amounts once every 10 days.
In addition, in hot seasons the parlour palm can also suffer from leaf spot disease and root rot, so attention should be paid to the ventilation of its growing environment and the air permeability of the soil. When necessary, thiophanate and chlorothalonil can be sprayed for control.
Variety classification of the parlour palm and similar distinctions
These two plants are relatively similar in appearance; the specific distinctions are as follows:
① Areca palm: the stem is smooth, without hairs or spines, cylindrical, slightly swollen at the base, up to 3-8 m tall; the leaves are smooth and slender, pinnately parted, with 40-60 segments per leaf, in 2 rows, relatively hard, not drooping, lanceolate, 40-60 cm long, with a long tail-like acuminate tip and an unequal short 2-lobed apex, bright green; the slender petiole and stem are golden yellow, and the leaf sheath is yellow-green, initially covered with white powder on the upper part, later falling off; the spadix grows below the leaf sheath bundle, much branched, arranged in a panicle, dioecious, with small golden-yellow flowers; the fruit is top-shaped, purple-black, without an endocarp.
② Parlour palm: up to 1-3 m tall; when potted, most are about 20-50 cm; the stem is upright, unbranched, and the leaves emerge from the top, pinnately parted, with broadly lanceolate, dark green, glossy segments; it flowers in spring, with the spadix axillary, dioecious; the male inflorescence is upright, and the female inflorescence droops slightly when nutritional conditions are good; the flowers are yellow and small and spherical; the fruit is orange-red.
Identifying the parlour palm
The parlour palm also has many other names, such as dwarf coconut palm, parlour palm, parlour palm and lucky palm; it belongs to the palm family, genus Chamaedorea, and is a perennial evergreen small tree. The plant height is about 1 m, and when cultivated in the open ground in warm regions it can reach more than 2 m. The root system is well developed. The stem is slender and upright, usually solitary, dark green, and has ring marks left by the base of the leaf sheath after the leaves fall off, with the spacing between the ring marks varying. The leaves are alternate and clustered at the tip of the stem, odd-pinnately parted, 30-40 cm long, with lanceolate segments, 20-40 of them, dark green, leathery. The spadix is much branched, growing in a panicle-like arrangement. It is monoecious, with both sexes in the same inflorescence, and the flowers are yellow. The fruit is nearly spherical and blue-black when mature. Under cultivation it rarely sets fruit.
Parlour palm pictures