How to grow freesia? Growing methods and precautions, needs warmth in winter
Freesia should be familiar to flower lovers. It is very useful, not only beautiful but also usable in medicine to treat illness, and it is a widely popular flower. In daily life, many people want to grow freesia, so how do you grow freesia? Below are the freesia growing methods and precautions carefully compiled by the editor, very detailed
Freesia should be familiar to flower lovers. It is very useful, not only beautiful but also usable in medicine to treat illness, and it is a widely popular flower. In daily life, many people want to grow freesia, so how do you grow freesia? Below are the freesia growing methods and precautions carefully compiled by the editor, very detailed. Friends who want to grow it should definitely take a look~
1. How to grow freesia: understand its habits
Freesia prefers a cool, moist environment with ample light. When growing it indoors, besides placing it in a ventilated spot with light, you should also water it frequently to keep the potting soil moist. However, freesia has poor cold tolerance, so in winter the room temperature should be kept above 3°C. Therefore, as for how to grow freesia, you just need to meet its growth needs. Let us continue reading for the specifics.
2. Freesia growing methods and precautions
1. Potting soil
For how to grow potted freesia, first of all you naturally need to choose a good flower pot and soil suitable for its growth, since potted plants bought outside are not necessarily good. The potting soil requirements are as follows:
Flower pot: For planting freesia, an unglazed clay pot is generally most suitable. If you do not have one, you can use a flower pot with relatively good air permeability.
Soil: According to the growth habits of freesia, you should choose for it a sandy soil that is loose, well-drained and strongly water-retentive. The editor recommends: /3 peat soil plus 1/3 fine sand to make nutrient soil.
2. Light
Plant growth cannot be separated from light, so in freesia growing methods, light is very important. It is understood that freesia likes light but fears strong light, so in spring, autumn and winter you can let it receive ample sunlight, but in summer you must avoid exposing it to blazing sun.
Precautions: For freesia to grow well, ample light is very necessary, so many flower lovers keep it on the balcony. But everyone must be careful not to let it receive too strong light, otherwise it easily causes freesia leaves to turn yellow, and in summer it enters dormancy and stops growing.
3. Temperature
During the growth of freesia, temperature regulation is also very important. According to the growing experience of expert gardeners, the editor learned that the most suitable temperature for freesia growth is 15-25°C. If the daytime temperature is controlled at around 20°C and the nighttime temperature at around 15°C, freesia will produce beautiful flowers.
Precautions: Because freesia fears both heat and cold, in winter the temperature should be kept above 7°C, and in summer the temperature should be kept no higher than 30°C, otherwise cooling measures are needed.
4. Watering
In freesia growing methods, watering is indispensable. Freesia that has just been potted is generally watered about once a week. During the growing period it needs a lot of water, but it must not be overwatered; keeping the soil moist is enough.
Precautions: After transplanting and before sprouting, freesia should keep the soil moist; after budding, gradually increase or decrease the amount of watering, try to keep the soil dry, lower air humidity and reduce pests and diseases; if it is the stage of sending up flower stems, be sure to ensure an adequate water supply.
5. Fertilizing
After watering, let us talk about fertilizing, which plays a vital role in the growth of freesia. It is understood that freesia likes fertilizer. At the flower bud differentiation stage, fertilization should begin, applying bean cake water once every 10-15 days, or phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be used instead.
Precautions: Do not fertilize at the budding stage, so as to avoid excessive leaf growth affecting flowering. Therefore, excessive fertilizing is also one of the reasons freesia does not bloom. When flowering, apply monopotassium phosphate as a foliar fertilizer to promote flowering.
6. Netting
In freesia growing methods, there is one point everyone should also note, namely netting. Because freesia flower stems are soft, when there are many flowers, the flower stems will droop and lodge. So for the healthy growth of freesia, and also for good looks, when it grows 3-4 leaves, you can set up netting.
Netting method: Set the first layer of net about 25 cm above the ground, and as the freesia grows, set up 2-3 layers of net. The net specifications are 10cm×10cm or 10cm×15cm.
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledge
Essential knowledge for home flower growing | Complete guide to home flower growing knowledge1. Benefits of home flower growing
1. Adds interest to life, makes life more full of vitality, benefits physical and mental health, cultivates noble sentiment, and inspires emotion for life. Meeting friends through flowers brings great joy.
Flower-viewing seasons: enjoy flowers in spring, enjoy fragrance in summer, enjoy fruit in autumn, enjoy greenery in winter.
Flower-viewing grades: viewing with tea is best, viewing with conversation is second, viewing with wine is lowest.
Flower-viewing standards: color, fragrance, posture, charm.
2. Improves the living environment and implements green environmental protection.
(1) Green plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Every square meter of green plants absorbs 90g of carbon dioxide and releases 60g of oxygen per day.
(2) Absorb harmful gases
Absorb formaldehyde: snake plant, Asiatic dayflower, English ivy, spider plant, aloe.
Absorb benzene: English ivy, chrysanthemum, sago palm.
Absorb chlorine: Aglaia odorata, chrysanthemum, Chinese rose, false betel palm, Chinese fan palm.
(3) The sterilizing effect of volatile oils from fresh flowers
The fragrant aroma of jasmine and lilac can kill protists in 5 minutes.
(4) Regulate temperature
Green plants in urban greening areas can absorb up to 6080 calories of sunlight in summer, lowering the environmental temperature by 3.8°C, shortening the duration of high temperatures each day by 3 hours, and vertical greening on walls can lower wall surface temperature by 5°C.
2. Home flower growing methods and commonly used plants
1. Courtyard flower growing
Combine trees and shrubs with flowers and grasses; combine deciduous plants with evergreen plants; combine foliage viewing with flower viewing and fruit viewing; combine ornamental value with practical value; fully develop three-dimensional space, with the seasonal changes in scenery bringing a fresh feeling.
Plants suitable for planting in small courtyards:
(1) Small trees:
Osmanthus, banana shrub, camellia, citrus, loquat, bamboo, redbud, cherry blossom, crabapple, lilac, maple, pomegranate, jujube, persimmon, etc.
(2) Shrubs:
Gardenia, serissa, pyracantha, southern bamboo, wintersweet, Chinese rose, tree peony, azalea, crabapple, redbud, winter daphne, hydrangea, St. John's wort, etc.
(3) Herbaceous plants:
Banana, inch plant, saxifrage, lilyturf
Iris, daylily, Chinese peony, hosta, torch lily, Michaelmas daisy, phlox, dahlia, lily, narcissus, tuberose, amaryllis, rain lily, autumn zephyr lily, canna, red-flowered oxalis, dichondra, Manila grass, hybrid bermudagrass, stringy stonecrop, scallion, kalimeris, chrysanthemum greens.
Lotus, water lily, yu chan.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(4) Vines:
Banks rose, honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, English ivy, wisteria, Boston ivy, grape, kiwifruit, morning glory, cypress vine, etc.
2. Balcony and indoor flower growing
Adapt to the characteristics of pot cultivation and select suitable varieties for planting. Master soil, fertilizer and water management to ensure safe overwintering and summering. Take measures separately according to plant traits, so they grow luxuriantly in all four seasons, and seasonal flowers match the occasion. Arrange the room exquisitely, improve floral art skills, and regulate the joy of life.
Plants suitable for balcony and indoor planting:
(1) Foliage plants:
Spider plant, English ivy, inch plant, arrowhead plant, periwinkle.
Rubber tree, small sago palm, broadleaf lady palm, Areca palm, pygmy date palm, asparagus fern, croton, red-back eugenia, Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, bamboo palm
Bromeliads, maranta family, ferns, umbrella plant
Pothos, Philodendron, Ti plant, Dracaena fragrans, Aglaonema, lucky bamboo, Pachira aquatica (money tree),
Caladium, begonia, etc.
(2) Flowering plants:
Chinese rose, winter jasmine, plum bonsai, potted redbud, winter daphne, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chinese hibiscus.
Clivia, amaryllis, lily, hyacinth, narcissus, red-flowered oxalis, calla lily, cyclamen, freesia, Persian buttercup.
Chinese orchids, tropical orchids, chrysanthemum, Gerbera daisy, wax begonia, petunia, nasturtium, Pelargonium, fuchsia, Impatiens walleriana (glasswort), Impatiens hawkeri.
Annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, etc.
(3) Fruit-viewing plants:
Nandina, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, four-season mandarin.
Pyracantha, goji, small pomegranate.
Winter coral, ornamental pepper, strawberry.
(4) Cacti and succulents
Cactus, ball cactus, Christmas cactus, crab claw cactus, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus
Agave, snake plant, ponytail palm (Agavaceae)
Lampranthus, rainbow bush, Carruanthus, living stones (Aizoaceae)
Aeonium, Echeveria, jade plant (Crassula ovata), Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, stringy stonecrop (Crassulaceae)
Aloe, Haworthia, Peperomia (Liliaceae)
Crown of thorns (Euphorbiaceae)
Portulacaria afra (Portulacaceae)
(5) Vine and woody plants
Honeysuckle, grape
Morning glory, cypress vine, bitter melon (balsam pear).
3. Home flower growing management
Six essentials for growing flowers: soil, fertilizer, water, protection, pruning, propagation
1. Soil
Soil is the foundation for the growth of flowers and trees. It is not only the support that fixes the plant root system for growth and development, but also must provide the necessary nutrients, water and air for plant growth.
(1) Soil quality requirements
Fertile, harmless, loose, breathable, water-retentive, fertilizer-retentive.
(2) Potting soil materials
For home flower growing, the potting soil materials, besides the generally commonly used soil, also use some mineral materials and biological materials, so the meaning of potting soil is not limited to soil. Therefore, these materials on which plants rely for survival are often collectively called substrate or medium in cultivation. Commonly used substrates include: garden soil, mountain soil, pond mud, sand, worm castings, coal cinders, vermiculite, perlite, ceramsite, brick granules, rice husk, rice husk ash, wood shavings, charcoal, grass clippings, tree bark, cottonseed hulls, peanut shells, pine needles, moss, coconut coir, sugarcane bagasse, etc.
(3) Soil acidity
The pH of soil affects the growth and development of flowers. Most flowers are suitable for slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6.0-7.0 (soil pH 7 is neutral soil). Camellia, azalea, orchid, bromeliads and other flowers require a more acidic soil environment. Usually a pH value of about 5-6 is required. Therefore, for cultivation of these flowers, mountain soil rich in humus (orchid soil) must be selected for them to grow well. Dianthus, dahlia, cacti, pyracantha, pomegranate, grape and kiwifruit have a broad range of adaptability to soil acidity and can grow in an environment of pH 6-8.
For soil that is heavily alkaline, sulfur powder, ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate can be added to adjust it. Usually the application amount of sulfur powder is 0.1-0.2% of the total soil amount. For soil that is too acidic, lime powder can be used to adjust it, with an application amount of 35-70 grams per square meter of land.
(4) Soil improvement
For soil used for courtyard flower planting, various construction wastes within 40cm of the soil surface must be cleared. At the positions of tree pits for planting trees, new soil should be replaced within a depth of 60-80cm. For greening land with heavy clay soil, coarse sand and organic matter rich in fibrous material should be added to facilitate drainage and increase the air permeability and organic matter content of the soil layer.
For the preparation of potting soil, according to the requirements of the plants being grown, attention should be paid to the air permeability, fertility and suitable soil acidity of the soil. Usually fertile garden soil (heated soil) plus rice husk ash is made into a cultivation substrate in a ratio of 2-3:1. However, for growing flowers in cities, limited by conditions, it is not easy to obtain high-quality culture soil, so urban household waste such as fallen leaves, sawdust, peanut shells, bean shells, eggshells, sugarcane bagasse, poultry feathers, fish bones, shrimp shells, etc. can be collected, finely cut or crushed, added with rice washing water, placed in an old jar or plastic bag, and after a relatively long period of fermentation and decomposition, dried, sieved, and mixed with part of raw soil (soil excavated from roads and infrastructure) to prepare potted nutrient soil. The old soil replaced after repotting can also be mixed with household waste, piled and composted, then reused.
Strictly speaking, potting soil needs disinfection. For home flower growing, a simple sunlight disinfection method can be used, that is, in summer spread the soil flat on a cement slab, cover it with plastic film, and expose it to strong sunlight for 3-4 days, which can kill a large number of pathogenic spores, mycelia, pest eggs and nematodes in the soil. In addition, if conditions permit, heating disinfection and chemical disinfection can also be used.
2. Fertilizing
Fertilizer is the source of nutrients needed for flower growth and directly affects the growth and development of flowers. For different plants, at different growth stages, applying the needed nutrient elements at the right time and in the right amount is what enables flowers to grow with luxuriant branches and leaves and bloom abundantly.
The 16 nutrient elements needed for flower growth
Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen (obtained from air and water)
Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium
Iron, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, molybdenum, chlorine
(1) Types of fertilizer
Organic fertilizer: fertilizer formed from animal and plant residues or excrement after processing, fermentation and decomposition. Organic fertilizer contains complete nutrient elements needed by flowers. After being applied to the soil, the nutrients decompose gradually. Although the effect is slow, the fertilizer effect is long-lasting, and it can also improve the soil, which is beneficial to root development and the activity of beneficial soil microorganisms. Commonly used organic fertilizers include: livestock and poultry manure, fish meal, bone meal, plant ash, various cake fertilizers and sesame oil residue, etc.
Inorganic fertilizer (chemical fertilizer): fertilizer made by chemical methods or processed from natural minerals. It has the advantages of high nutrient content, quick effect, convenient use, cleanliness and hygiene, but its nutrient composition is single, and long-term use easily makes the soil compact. Commonly used ones include: urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, etc., as well as processed and compounded fertilizers containing the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
(2) Preparation of organic fertilizer for home flower growing
Courtyard composting: Use a shaded corner of the courtyard, dig a pit, and pile up daily leftover vegetable stems and leaves, bean shells, melon and fruit peels, herbal medicine residue, eggshells, shrimp and crab shells, poultry feathers, fish scales, fish innards, weeds, fallen leaves, etc. for composting. To prevent odor from escaping, it can be covered with mud or plastic film.
Home bottle preparation: Use small-mouthed waste plastic bottles such as cola bottles and blended oil bottles as containers, put in fish scales, fish innards, eel, shrimp shells and other animal scraps, and after fermentation and decomposition make a high-quality liquid quick-acting fertilizer. Bad yellow soybeans can also be soaked and fermented. When preparing bottled organic fertilizer, note: ① The amount of fish scraps put in is about 1/2-2/3 of the bottle capacity. Add water to near the bottle mouth (leave a certain gap).
① To reduce the odor during fertilizer fermentation, a portion of orange peel can be added at the same time. Generally, a 2.5-liter blended oil bottle can hold 3-4 orange peels. The orange peel can be torn into pieces or cut finely before being put in. Fresh orange peel can be used, and air-dried old orange peel can also be used.
③ After preparation, after the bottle cap is tightened, it must be unscrewed back 2-3 threads to leave a gap for gas, otherwise due to fermentation inside the bottle, gas expansion may burst the cap, causing the unbearable consequence of odor spreading everywhere.
④ Bottled organic fertilizer needs 4-5 months to ferment in summer, and generally takes about one year to decompose. Its solution can be diluted with water and used to water flowers.
Use of broad bean shells: Green broad bean pods are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrient elements, are easy to collect in cities, and are clean and hygienic. During preparation, the pods can be sun-dried, ground and stored for later use. They can be mixed in when making potted culture soil, or used as base fertilizer when repotting potted flowers or planting.
(3) Rational fertilizing
① Base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilization
Base fertilizer: mainly organic fertilizer with slow decomposition and long fertilizer effect. It is used for the whole annual growth period of flowers. For courtyard flower growing, in winter or early spring, dig trenches or holes around the main planted flowers and trees and bury it deeply, or apply it at the same time when the soil is plowed before planting. For potted flowers, it is mixed in when preparing culture soil, or applied to the bottom of the flower pot before planting. Commonly used base fertilizers include compost made from decomposed animal and plant residues, dried poultry and livestock manure, decomposed cake fertilizer crumbs, etc. In cities, the oil residue left after small mill sesame oil extraction can be used and has good fertilizer effect. Some also use fried or boiled soybeans placed in the middle and lower layers of potted flowers as supplementary base fertilizer.
Top dressing - apply quick-acting inorganic fertilizers that can be rapidly absorbed and utilized by flowers, or the leachate from fermented organic fertilizers, added as needed at each stage of flower growth and development. Commonly used ones include urea, monopotassium phosphate, etc.
Foliar feeding - also called root-outside top dressing, dissolve chemical fertilizer in water and spray it on the plants, so that nutrients penetrate into the plant body through the underside of the leaves. It has the characteristics of being convenient to apply and quick to take effect. When applying, pay attention to: keep the chemical fertilizer concentration at 0.1-0.2%; too strong a concentration will cause harm to the plants. For flowers grown on balconies and outdoors, the spraying time should preferably be in the evening, to prevent the fertilizer from being exposed to the scorching sun after application, which increases the fertilizer concentration and causes fertilizer burn. When spraying, attention should be paid to the underside of the leaves.
(2) Fertilization principles and methods
Suitable for the flower, suitable for the time, suitable for the condition, suitable in amount, apply thin fertilizer frequently
Suitable for the flower - foliage plants need more nitrogen fertilizer, while fruit- and flower-viewing plants need more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the time - when shoots and leaves are sprouting, mainly nitrogen fertilizer; before flower bud differentiation, flower bud formation, and flowering, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Suitable for the condition - "four more, four less, four not"
Apply more when yellow and thin, apply more before sprouting, apply more before budding, apply more after flowering. Apply less when fat and strong, apply less when sprouting, apply less when flowering, apply less in the rainy season. Do not apply when newly planted, do not apply when leggy, do not apply when diseased or weak, do not apply in midsummer.
Suitable in amount - thin fertilizer: for organic fertilizer use 7-8 parts water plus 2-3 parts fertilizer; for chemical fertilizer use a 0.1-0.3% concentration
Frequent application: once every 7-10 days during the growing season.
Three taboos of fertilization - avoid strong fertilizer; strong fertilizer causes cell sap to seep out and leads to death.
Avoid hot fertilizer; at noon in summer the soil temperature is high, and top dressing harms the roots.
Avoid sitting on fertilizer; after applying base fertilizer at the bottom of a flower pot, first cover it with a thin layer of soil.
Then plant the flower. Avoid letting the root system sit directly on the fertilizer.
3. Watering
Watering is the main management task in home flower growing. Water is an important component of plants and an indispensable main substance for physiological activities.
(1) Courtyard watering
In dry seasons, water must be supplemented to keep the soil moist; in rainy seasons, attention must be paid to drainage to prevent the root system from suffocating and dying due to waterlogging and lack of oxygen.
When watering, usually keep the water temperature and soil temperature from differing by more than 5°C. In summer, water in the early morning and evening; in winter, water around noon.
(2) Watering potted flowers
(1) Watering principle - dry and wet alternately, do not water when not dry, water as soon as it looks dry, and water thoroughly when watering.
Dry and wet alternately means making the soil sometimes dry and sometimes wet. This not only ensures water supply for the flowers and trees, but also allows the pot soil to breathe, protecting root development.
The standard for dryness is that the upper layer of the pot soil is dry while the bottom soil still has some moisture, and the plant grows normally or the leaves show brief wilting at noon.
For flowering plants, water shortage first shows as wilting of the petals. If leaves and flowers show signs of water loss, water must be supplemented immediately to restore vitality.
The principle of watering thoroughly means that the amount of water should be enough that water seeps out from the bottom of the pot. Half-way water, with the pot soil wet on top and dry below, is a major taboo in potted flower management, because it uses the moist surface of the pot soil to conceal the essence of water shortage, causing root water shortage and death. Plants that have been cut off from water are very difficult to revive even if watered again as rescue.
(3) More or less watering.
Water more for herbaceous plants, less for woody plants; water more for moisture-loving flowers, less for drought-loving flowers;
Water more for plants with large, soft leaves; water less for plants with small, waxy leaves;
Water more during the vigorous growth period, less after entering dormancy:
Water more when the seedling is large and the pot is small; water less when the seedling is small and the pot is large;
Water more on balconies, less in courtyards; water more in summer, less in winter; water more when clear and dry; water less on cloudy days;
Water more at budding, less at flowering.
(4) Rescue of drought dehydration and root rot from waterlogging
When woody plants suffer long-term drought dehydration and their stems and leaves wilt, but the stems still have life, they should first be moved to a shady place to reduce water evaporation from the plant body. Also spray water to maintain humidity in the above-ground environment. After watering the roots, it is not advisable to continuously supplement water, to prevent root oxygen deficiency. According to the principle of dry and wet alternately, keep the soil breathable to promote new roots and restore vitality. For severely dehydrated plants, according to the growth condition of the above-ground part, carry out appropriate pruning, which helps them sprout and leaf out again.
When pot soil has accumulated water after long rain and the plant suffers waterlogging damage, with branches and leaves wilted and listless, the plant must immediately be removed from the pot with soil and placed in a cool, ventilated place to let the root soil moisture dissipate. After 3-5 days, when growth resumes, repot it. During continuous rainy weather, outdoor potted plants can be laid on their sides to avoid water accumulation. After long rain, if it suddenly clears and the sunlight is strong, exposing the plant to the sun will, because root growth has been damaged and branch and leaf transpiration is too strong, cause severe water loss and death. Therefore, attention should be paid to strictly controlling water, moving the location, and providing shade for recovery.
(5) Different watering methods
When watering potted flowers, in most cases overhead pouring should be avoided. For Gloxinia, African violet, and others, water poured on the flowers and leaves will cause the flowers and leaves to rot. For bromeliads, however, overhead watering is required, so that the leaf rosette stores water to meet growth needs. For orchids, arrowroots, and similar flowers, besides appropriate watering, misting is required to increase the air humidity of the growing environment.
Indoor foliage plants, depending on differences in the growth characteristics of their places of origin, also have quite different water requirements. Araceae plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, and calla lily, as well as ferns and Cyperus alternifolius, belong to moisture-loving flowers; watering should follow "prefer wet over dry," but do not let water accumulate. Succulents such as snake plant, aloe, and sedum, and cacti are drought-loving flowers; watering should follow "prefer dry over wet" to prevent excessive water from causing root rot. Other plants such as asparagus fern, sago palm, and begonia, which make up most plants, belong to intermediate-type flowers; soil that is too dry or too wet both cause adverse reactions, and watering can follow the principle of "alternately dry and wet."
4. Protecting flowers
Home flower growing must protect flowers for safe summering and overwintering, and must prevent and control pests and diseases.
(1) Summering and overwintering
The suitable growth temperature for most flowers is 15-25°C. If the air temperature exceeds 40°C or falls below the minimum temperature that different flowers can tolerate, the flowers will be harmed.
(1) Safe summering
The high temperatures and intense sunlight of summer often make some temperate plants unaccustomed to the severe heat, and make some shade plants susceptible to sunburn. Therefore, home flower growing can use methods such as shading, ventilation, misting, and adjusting the placement of potted flowers to improve the environmental impact, lower the temperature, and help flowers summer safely.
(2) Safe overwintering
Frost damage and freeze damage in winter greatly affect flower growth, and some non-cold-resistant flowers will die from frost. In autumn, plants are still in the growth period, and some flowers suffer damage to both leaves and buds as soon as the first frost comes. In spring, after dormancy, plants begin to sprout and germinate; if they are hit by a late frost at this time, the damage is also very serious. In the Suzhou area, the first frost period generally appears in early to mid-November, and the last frost period is from the end of March to early April. Therefore, during this period, in order to prevent frost damage and low-temperature freeze damage below 0°C, for flowers that are easily harmed, courtyard cultivation can be protected by covering with soil or mulching film. Potted flowers on balconies can be protected by building a plastic shed against the south wall; in the evening when there is severe cold, the top and surroundings of the shed should also be covered with woven bags or burlap and other coverings for warmth. Already
For balconies enclosed with installed glass, non-cold-resistant plants such as Milan, hibiscus, Christmas cactus, Impatiens walleriana, and croton should be moved indoors and covered with transparent plastic bags to protect them through the winter. To increase the cold resistance of flowers and trees in winter, management should restrict watering, but water still needs to be supplemented as appropriate depending on conditions. Due to neglect in management, home flower growing in winter often also suffers from death by drying out.
(2) Pest and disease control
For pest and disease control in home flower growing, the principle of "prevention first" should be grasped. Strengthen management, improve the ventilation conditions of the growing environment, do a good job in fertilizer and water management and pruning work, so that flowers and trees grow vigorously and strengthen their own ability to resist pests and diseases, and promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
(1) Insect pests
Pests fall into two types according to their feeding method.
Chewing pests:
They damage roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits, and the damaged parts show notches, holes, and even cavities. Such as cabbage worms, nettle caterpillars, longhorn beetles, and white grubs (scarab beetle larvae), etc.
Use stomach poisons and contact insecticides such as deltamethrin, trichlorfon, fenvalerate, phoxim, etc.
Sucking pests:
The pests pierce into the plant body with their mouthparts and suck out sap. Such as aphids, scale insects, and red spiders (mites), etc.
The damaged stems and leaves show symptoms such as spots, wrinkling, and discoloration.
Use contact and systemic pesticides for control, such as dimethoate, propargite, etc.
(3) Diseases
There are mainly three types of pathogens for plant diseases
Fungal diseases:
Caused by fungal infection; mold-like or powdery substances can be seen growing on the surface of the host.
Symptoms include damping-off, seedling blight, spots, scab, mold rot, wilting, etc.
Main chemicals used include carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, etc.
Bacterial diseases:
Caused by bacteria; leaves show water-soaked, semi-transparent lesions, and are limited by leaf veins.
Tender organs become necrotic, appearing slimy and giving off a foul odor. In wilted diseased stems, a cross-section shows browning of the vascular bundles.
Main chemicals used include: validamycin, agricultural streptomycin, etc.
5. Pruning
Pruning and trimming flowers and trees can regulate growth, flowering, and fruiting. Pruning can also improve ventilation and light conditions and promote vigorous growth of branches and leaves. Common methods used in home flower growing include pinching, branch pruning, bud removal, and leaf removal.
(1) Pinching is often used on herbaceous flower seedlings. After the main stem of a herbaceous flower is removed, it helps promote the sprouting of lateral buds, increasing branching, achieving the goal of dwarfing the plant and having more branches and more flowers. It can also adjust the flowering period. It is often applied to chrysanthemums, salvia, petunias, marigolds, etc.
(2) Branch pruning There are two ways to prune branches. One is to remove from the base of the branch, called thinning. Thinning is cutting out overly dense branches as well as crossing branches, leggy branches, weak slender branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and dead branches, which helps the tree body ventilate and receive light and enhances the plant's growth vigor. The other way is to shorten the branch, called heading back. Heading back can promote the sprouting of lateral buds on the branch, adjust growth vigor, and benefit flowering and fruiting. For roses, in winter, leaving the branches about 20-30 cm and heading them back can control the plant's growth height and make spring flowering abundant and neat. Heading back the leggy branches of wintersweet can promote the sprouting of lateral branches and form flowering branches for the next year. The growth habits of various flowers and trees differ; some branches form flower buds at the terminal buds, while others form flower buds at the lateral buds, so heading back should also adopt different corresponding methods.
(1) Bud removal During the growth period of flowers and trees, adventitious buds often appear; if allowed to grow, they consume nutrients, disrupt the tree shape, and affect ventilation and light, so they need to be removed in the early stage of bud sprouting. For grafted rose seedlings, the sprouts on the rootstock portion are all wild roses and must all be removed.
(4) Leaf removal For some foliage plants, such as spider plant, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, calla lily, etc., part of the old leaves should be removed in time to promote new leaves. For jasmine, after being brought out of the room in spring, removing old leaves can promote more new branches and new leaves, vigorous growth, and more flower buds.
6. Propagation
In home flower growing, propagating new plants and new seedlings yourself adds more pleasure to growing flowers. Commonly used methods include sowing, cuttings, division, layering, and grafting.
(1) Sowing
Seeds must be collected after they are fully mature.
Dry, low-temperature storage conditions can extend seed life. For home storage, seeds can be packed in plastic bags and placed in the refrigerator crisper for storage.
Biennial herbaceous flowers that bloom in spring are sown in mid-to-late August. Annual flowers that bloom in autumn are sown from late March to early April in spring.
After sowing, the soil covering thickness should be 2-3 times the height of the seed.
Seed germination requires temperature, moisture, and air. Generally 20-25°C is most suitable for germination. The sowing bed soil must not become compacted and must not accumulate water, so as to provide the oxygen needed for germination.
After seedlings emerge, once they have 2-4 leaves, they should be transplanted.
(2) Cuttings
This uses the regenerative ability of plant organs such as roots, stems, leaves, and buds after separation from the parent body to cultivate new plants.
The soil (substrate) used for cuttings must be loose, breathable, and harmless. For home propagation, materials such as rice husk ash, yellow sand, perlite, and vermiculite can be used.
For stem cuttings of woody plants, select fully grown current-year branches, take material 10-15 cm long with 3-4 buds, and insert 5-6 cm into the soil. The lower cut end of the cutting should be at a node. Dormant branch cuttings are carried out 10-15 days before sprouting. Green branch cuttings with leaves can be carried out during the growth period once the new branches have matured. But the above-ground leaves should be appropriately trimmed off to reduce transpiration and benefit rooting.
For herbaceous plant cuttings, select tender stems with full tissue. Wax begonia, petunia, Impatiens walleriana, Impatiens hawkeri, salvia, and marigold all root easily from cuttings.
Most succulents can be propagated by leaf cuttings.
For home cuttings, use flower pots as cutting beds, line the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces to facilitate drainage, always keep the soil moist, and the cutting pot should avoid direct sunlight. If misting can be done frequently to maintain a certain air humidity, it can be placed in sunlight; rose cuttings in summer can root in about 10 days.
(3) Division and bulb separation
Some perennial flowers and shrubs, such as daylily, iris, asparagus fern, broadleaf lady palm, Cyperus alternifolius, wintersweet, and peony, after growing for several years have enlarged clumps. In early spring or autumn, the clump can be dug up and divided into several individual plants. When dividing, each plant should retain as many roots as possible, and the area of the cut wounds should be reduced.
Bulbous flowers such as tulips, lilies, narcissus, gladiolus, and oxalis can be propagated by separating small bulbs.
(4) Layering
For flowers and trees such as osmanthus, camellia, and wintersweet, branches close to the ground can be bent and pressed into the soil without being detached from the parent plant, prompting the middle stem nodes of the buried branch portion to root. Usually layering is carried out in March-April. The buried portion needs to be nicked or ring-barked to facilitate callus tissue at the wound site producing new roots. In autumn, cut below the rooted portion to produce a new plant.
On the upper part of the flower or tree plant, select a branch about 0.5-1.0 cm in diameter and carry out ring-barking, with a ring width of 0.3-1.5 cm. On the outside, use a bamboo tube or plastic bag to wrap and hold a breathable, moisture-retaining material to promote rooting at the ring-barked portion. This is called air layering. The suitable season for air layering is preferably before the plum rain.
(5) Grafting (omitted)
The key to successful grafting lies in: the nutritional status of the grafting materials, compatibility, the temperature and humidity environment after grafting, and grafting technique. Commonly used methods include two types: stem grafting and bud grafting.
4. Home floral art
1. Flower arranging
Flower arranging uses fresh flowers as the main material and, through certain techniques, forms a living work of art, making the home environment more pleasing to the eye and full of vitality. For the flower arrangement configuration, generally the following key points should be grasped.
(1) Staggered heights The positions of the flower branches should be staggered front and back and high and low; never place them on the same straight line or the same plane.
(2) Appropriate spacing The flower branches or leaves should not be arranged at equal distances from one another; there should be both sparse and dense areas.
(3) Combining virtual and solid Flowers are solid, leaves are virtual; having both flowers and leaves, with flowers as the main body and leaves as accompaniment. Small flowers such as baby's breath can also be used as accompaniment to give the whole composition a hazy feel.
(4) Facing up and down in mutual response The flower branches above and below, left and right should echo one another around the main flower branch, keeping the flower branches integrated and balanced.
(5) Light on top and heavy below When combining flower branches, buds on top and fully open flowers below; light-colored flowers on top and dark-colored flowers below; small flowers with posture on top and large, spherical flowers below. Make the composition balanced and natural.
(6) Loose on top and gathered below When combining multiple flower branches, the upper flowers can be spread out, and the lower flowers should be gathered together.
European-style flower arranging forms rich, geometric patterns, with brilliant, vivid colors, embodying the beauty of artificial art and pattern. Eastern-style flower arranging often leans toward elegance and simplicity in its flower branches, advocating nature, being plain and refined, and rich in profound meaning.
2. Bonsai
Bonsai uses tree stumps, mountain stones, and other materials, and through artistic processing and careful cultivation, reproduces the appearance of nature in a pot. It is often called "silent poetry, three-dimensional painting."
(1) Tree stump bonsai
Tree stump shaping should display agedness and simplicity; the techniques to grasp are:
The lower part must expose claws - make the roots under the tree exposed above the soil.
The middle must wrinkle - make the trunk curved, avoiding straightness. The bark should have cracks or wrinkles.
The upper part must form clouds - the crown and foliage are lush like clouds.
When planting two plants together in a pot, it is best to have one large and one small, like an old one carrying a young one; the old tree is affectionate and the young tree is graceful and neat, like people standing together and looking at each other. For three or more plants, the greatest taboo is for roots and tops to be all even, shaped like a tied bundle of firewood; they must yield to each other left and right and interweave naturally.
(2) Landscape bonsai
With mountain stones as the main body, it expresses the profound artistic conception of natural mountains and waters. The capacity of the bonsai should embody "one peak implies Mount Tai a thousand xun high, one spoonful implies rivers and lakes ten thousand li." Its value lies in showing the great within the small and being fascinating.
Landscape bonsai should apply the principles of perspective, with near objects large and far objects small, and near objects solid and far objects virtual, to make the scenery majestic and profound. According to the principle of seeing the distant within the near, landscape bonsai layout has three types, namely:
(1) High distance - looking up at the mountain from below the mountain is called high distance.
Rocks should occupy about 6/10 of the basin surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the basin rim height is 20-25:1.
Usually a single rock is the main feature, or a lower contrasting element is placed near the main body to set off the main scene.
③ Deep distance - viewing the rocks from in front of the mountain is called deep distance.
Rocks generally occupy about 5/10 of the basin surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the basin rim height is 15:1.
The mountain group is arranged in a "zigzag" longitudinal formation, with jagged interlocking peaks, solid in front and empty behind, layer upon layer. The mountain peaks seem both exposed and hidden, appearing and disappearing, giving the scene depth and distance.
④ Flat distance - viewing the distance from a nearby mountain is called flat distance.
In a flat-distance layout, the panorama is mostly water, with mountains as low ridges and small mounds; the mountain forms are gentle with few ravines, arranged in scattered and winding order.
Mountains occupy about 3/10 of the basin surface.
The ratio of the main peak height to the basin height is 6:1.
In landscape bonsai, blank space must be handled well; blank space represents the water surface, so that water surrounds the mountains and the mountains are enlivened by the water; the mountains are solid and the water is empty: they complement each other. Generally, to express a broad water surface, the blank space accounts for more than about 2/3. To express a mountain-dominant scene, the blank space may account for 1/3.
Landscape bonsai can be embellished with figures, birds and animals, towers, pavilions, pagodas, bridges, boats and sails. But attention must be paid to proportion and to reasonable harmony and unity with the scenery. The scene can be arranged according to the scale of "zhang for mountains, chi for trees, cun for horses, fen for people."
3. Hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in nutrient solution without a growing medium. It is currently a very novel way of growing flowers at home; its greatest advantages are that it is clean and hygienic, has few pests and diseases, is easy to maintain, and also allows you to observe the growth of the plant roots.
The flowers suitable for hydroponics are quite wide-ranging, including aquatic plants, hygrophytes, mesophytes, and a group of plants that are less drought-tolerant. For home hydroponics, species with moderate plant shape and beautiful flowers and leaves should be chosen so they can be placed on a desk or table. Commonly used ones include: water hyacinth (water hyacinth), spatterdock, umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, philodendron, inch plant, lucky bamboo, bamboo palm, spider plant, English ivy, narcissus, hyacinth, amaryllis, tulip, nasturtium, arrowroot, red-backed excoecaria, aucuba, bromeliads, and so on.
Hydroponic containers can use various transparent glass vessels; for simple home culture, mineral water bottles can also be used. Placing some colored glass balls in the container can both secure the roots and add color to the culture vessel.
A simple general formula for hydroponic nutrient solution is: per 1000 g of water, add 0.74 g calcium nitrate, 0.48 g potassium nitrate, 0.12 g monopotassium phosphate, and 0.37 g magnesium sulfate. At home, a 0.1-0.2% urea and monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used. For bulbous flowers and short-term hydroponic foliage plants, clean water can also be used for hydroponics when chemical raw materials are not easy to purchase.
The water used for hydroponics needs to be changed frequently, which can reduce water quality deterioration and increase the oxygen in the water. The water level in bottle culture should not be too high; it is best to let part of the root base be exposed to the air to facilitate oxygen uptake.
4. Bottle planting
Use glass bottles, fish tanks, and other glass vessels to cultivate flowers, making a "bottle scene" or "glass garden."
Plants more suitable for bottle planting often include ferns, spider plant, inch plant, begonia, ti plant, small-leaf English ivy, Acorus gramineus, cactus plants and succulents, etc. When planting, multiple compatible plants are often used to create a bottle scene; the bottle top can be sealed or covered. At the bottom of the bottle, first spread charcoal crumbs, sand and gravel, peat, perlite, sphagnum moss, etc. as the substrate, then plant the flowers. Outside the glass bottle, one can watch a group of garden scenery grow, with endless charm and a unique style.
5. Combined pot planting
Combined pot planting uses multiple ornamental plants, applying artistic arrangement techniques, planted together in one container to form the collective beauty of flowers. Generally, one container can combine 3-5 kinds of plants. When combining, attention should be paid to the following.
(1) The plant traits of the combination should be similar. For example, shade-tolerant or sun-loving, moisture-tolerant or not moisture-tolerant should be grouped separately for easy management.
(2) Flower shape and flower color should match leaf shape and leaf color. This makes the combined group create a sense of beauty in aspects such as color, form, posture, and charm.
(3) The container should be harmonious with the arranged plants. The texture, size, color, and shape of the container all affect the style of the potted planting.
(4) In pot planting combinations, the main plant should first be determined. Generally, the main feature plant should be placed in the center or at the 2/3 position of a long pot, and then some accompanying plants should be arranged; gaps may also be left and decorated with pebbles or shells. At the container edge, trailing plants can also be planted to hang down and conceal the rim.
(5) According to the condition of the container, different methods of planting the combined plants can be adopted: removing them from their pots or planting them in their original pots.
V. Common mistakes in growing flowers
Mistake one: watering too much
In summer, giving flowers more “drink” is not always better. You can water once every morning, and in the evening appropriately water again depending on how dry the potting soil is; try not to water during the day. When watering, water thoroughly, judged by water flowing out from the bottom of the pot. For some flowers with fleshy roots, such as clivia, the amount of watering must be controlled; if the flowers “drink” too much, root rot is very likely. Such flowers also cannot withstand exposure to strong sun; when it is relatively dry at noon, you can appropriately spray some water on the leaves. For some more drought-tolerant flowers, such as cacti and succulents in the Crassulaceae family, give less “drink”; too much water easily causes root rot.
Mistake two: placing them indoors
Summer sunlight is strong, so simply move the flowers indoors. But they will grow poorly due to lack of sunlight. Sun-loving flowers are not afraid of strong sunlight, but at noon they still need appropriate shading. If they are intermediate, then appropriate shading is needed. If they are balcony potted flowers, they can be moved indoors every day from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. If they are shade-loving, then contact with strong light must absolutely be prevented.
Mistake three: fertilizing too much
If too much fertilizer is applied, the flowers cannot absorb it, and instead the roots are damaged. Of course, flowers that bloom in summer are generally relatively tolerant of high temperatures, and a moderate amount of extra fertilizer can be applied, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, impatiens, cockscomb, dahlia, etc.; fertilizer can be added during the flowering period to make them lush with branches and leaves. For some ornamental-fruit flowers such as kumquat and ornamental pepper, applying phosphate fertilizer after the flowers fade can make them bear more fruit. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber tree and Monstera deliciosa, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to make the leaves greener. Apply thin fertilizer frequently; too high a concentration easily causes fertilizer burn.
VI. Common toxic harms of flowers
Oleander
It blooms in spring, summer, and autumn every year. It is a flower that can be ornamental and medicinal, but can also poison people. Its stems, leaves, and even flowers are toxic; if its scent is smelled for too long, it can make people drowsy and reduce intelligence. The milky white sap it secretes can cause poisoning if swallowed by mistake.
Poinsettia
The whole plant is toxic, especially the white sap in the stems and leaves, which can irritate the skin, causing redness and swelling and allergic reactions. If the stems and leaves are eaten by mistake, there is a risk of poisoning and death.
Narcissus
Home cultivation is generally no problem, but do not break its bulb, because it contains lycorine toxin; accidental ingestion can cause vomiting and enteritis. The sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling; be especially careful not to get this sap into the eyes.
Corn poppy
The whole plant is toxic, containing toxic alkaloids, with the fruit being especially toxic. If eaten by mistake, it can cause central nervous system poisoning, and in severe cases may even endanger life.
Calla lily
The flower is toxic, containing large amounts of calcium oxalate crystals and alkaloids, etc. Accidental ingestion can cause poisoning symptoms such as coma.
Lantana
Both flowers and leaves are toxic; accidental ingestion can cause symptoms such as diarrhea and fever.
Datura flower
Also called belladonna flower, commonly seen in rural areas south of the Yangtze River; poisoning occurs if children eat it by mistake.
Night-blooming cestrum
At night, after stopping photosynthesis, it releases a large amount of waste gas. This waste gas smells very fragrant, but it is harmful to human health. If it is kept indoors for a long time, it can cause dizziness, coughing, and even asthma and insomnia. Therefore, place night-blooming cestrum indoors during the day, and move it outdoors in the evening.
Tulip
The flower contains toxic alkaloids. If humans and animals stay in such flower beds for 2 hours to 3 hours, they will feel dizzy and experience poisoning symptoms; in severe cases, hair may also fall out. It is not suitable for planting at home.
Lycoris
It contains lycorine alkaloids, and the whole plant is toxic. If eaten by mistake, it causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, speech impairment and bleeding from the mouth and nose may also occur.
Azalea
The plants and flowers of yellow azaleas both contain toxins, and accidental ingestion causes poisoning; the flowers of white azaleas contain tetracyclic diterpenoid toxins. After poisoning, people experience vomiting, difficulty breathing, numbness of the limbs, etc.; in severe cases it can cause shock and seriously harm human health.
Redbud
If people are exposed for too long to the pollen it releases, it can trigger asthma or worsen coughing symptoms.
Larkspur
Also called radish flower, the whole plant is toxic, and the seeds are even more toxic, mainly containing terpenoid alkaloids. If eaten by mistake, it causes nervous system poisoning, and in severe cases spasms and respiratory failure leading to death.
Nandina
Graceful and upright, yet the whole plant is toxic, mainly containing nandine, nandinaside, etc. After accidental ingestion, it easily causes poisoning symptoms such as whole-body twitching, spasms, and coma.
Mimosa
It contains mimosine. Too much contact with this toxin can cause sparse eyebrows, yellowing of hair, and even hair loss. Therefore, do not fiddle with it with your fingers too much.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine. After accidental ingestion, it causes pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, and gastrointestinal tract; in severe cases it damages the vocal cords and makes a person mute.
Wisteria
Its seeds, stems, and bark are all toxic. The seeds contain cytisine. After accidental ingestion, it causes vomiting and diarrhea; in severe cases, bleeding from the mouth and nose, cold hands and feet, and even shock and death may occur.
Chinese rose
The rich fragrance it gives off can make some people suddenly feel chest tightness and discomfort and difficulty breathing after smelling it.
Lily
If its fragrance is smelled for too long, it can overexcite the human central nervous system and cause insomnia.
Cactus plants
The spines contain toxic juice. After the human body is pricked, it causes allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain, and itching, leading to whole-body discomfort and restlessness.
Pine and cypress
The fragrant odor released by such trees and flowers has an irritating effect on the human gastrointestinal tract. If smelled for too long, it not only affects appetite, but also makes pregnant women feel upset, nauseated, and dizzy.
Orchid
If the fragrance it gives off is smelled for too long, it can make people overly excited and cause insomnia.
Hydrangea
If the particles it releases come into contact with people, they can cause itching of the skin in some people.
Beautiful flowers and ornamental plants such as crown-of-thorns, impatiens, iris, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), red-backed excoecaria, croton, Euphorbia antiquorum, and Euphorbia neriifolia. The cancer-promoting effects of these plants have been confirmed in research on nasopharyngeal carcinoma and esophageal cancer.
Some plants have fragrances that are too strong, such as night-blooming cestrum and lantana; being surrounded by such odors for a long time is unbearable. Even for famous fragrant flowers such as narcissus and roses, they at first feel fragrant and pleasant, but after a long time, especially while sleeping, breathing these scents becomes unbearable……
There are also some plants such as poinsettia, poppy, oleander, and zhuangyuanhong, which release toxic odors; frequent contact is even more harmful to the human body. Even some flower plants that have medicinal effects on people, when closely associated with healthy people day and night and in close contact, are also harmful to health.
Evergreen, as determined by botanists, contains some toxic enzymes (commonly known as dumb-cane enzyme). Its stem and leaf sap is strongly irritating when it touches the skin. If an infant accidentally bites it, strong irritation of the oral mucosa can cause throat edema, and even paralysis of the vocal cords and loss of voice. Therefore, people call evergreen “dumb cane,” and there is a saying, “The flower is beautiful, but the poison is hard to bear.”
VII. Simple homemade flower pesticides
Below are some pesticides introduced that both prevent insects and treat diseases, do not pollute the environment, and are convenient to obtain and simple to use. Everyone might as well give them a try.
1. Pest control In home flower growing, common pests include aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, thrips, leafhoppers, lace bugs, ants, red spider mites, etc.
(1) Ginkgo Crush the fruit in a mortar, add an equal amount of water, and filter to obtain the stock solution. When using, dilute the stock solution with water at a volume ratio of 1:2 and spray to control aphids. (2) Oriental arborvitae Wash the cypress fruit, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours, and take the filtrate for direct spraying to control leafhoppers. (3) Peach Take peach leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:6, boil for 30 minutes, and take the filtrate for direct spraying to control aphids and other mollusks. (4) Tung tree Cut old leaves into pieces and add water at a weight ratio of 1:3-5; or use fruit peel and add water at a weight ratio of 1:10; either way soak for 24 hours, and the filtrate can control aphids. (5) Chinese pulsatilla Wash the plant, cut it into pieces, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 23 hours, or boil for half an hour; the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers, and lace bugs. (6) Japanese false bindweed Wash the stems, cut them into pieces, crush them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours; the filtrate can control aphids, leafhoppers, and lace bugs. (7) Sun spurge Cut the stems and leaves into pieces, crush them, add water at a weight ratio of 1:4, boil for 1-2 hours, and take the filtrate for spraying to control aphids and red spider mites. (8) Mint Cut mint into pieces, crush it, add water at a weight ratio of 1:5, soak for 24 hours; the filtrate can control leafhoppers and lace bugs. (9) Chili pepper Add water to chili peppers at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil for half an hour, and take the filtrate for spraying to control aphids and stink bugs. (10) Tobacco Take tobacco leaves, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours, or boil for 1 hour, and take the filtrate to soak through the potting soil to kill ants in the pot; or take the filtrate, dilute it with an equal amount of water, and add a little soap to control aphids, red spider mites, thrips, and leafhoppers. (11) Sichuan pepper Add water to Sichuan pepper at a weight ratio of 1:10, boil it down to 5 parts stock solution, then dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:10 and spray to control whiteflies and aphids.
2. Disease control In home flower growing, common diseases include powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, rot, leaf spot, damping-off, etc.
(1) Masson pine Take pine needles, add water at a weight ratio of 1:2-3, boil for 2 hours to make it slightly gelatinous; take the filtrate, dilute with water at a volume ratio of 1:1, and it can control root rot. (2) Hibiscus Take hibiscus flowers, add water at a weight ratio of 1:10, soak for 24 hours; the filtrate can control root rot and damping-off. (3) Ginger Crush ginger and squeeze the juice, then dilute the juice with water at a volume ratio of 1:20 and spray to control rot. (4) Chives Crush chives, add water at a weight ratio of 1.6:10, then stir evenly and take the filtrate for spraying; it can control rust and also aphids. (5) Scallion Crush scallions, add water at a weight ratio of 2:1.5, filter and spray; it can control white disease and also aphids. (6) Garlic Crush garlic, add water at a weight ratio of 1:1, stir evenly, then take the juice, dilute the juice with water at a volume ratio of 1:3, and spray to control powdery mildew, gray mold, and root rot, and also aphids, red spider mites, and other mollusks.
3. Others
(1) Baking soda Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) has the effect of inhibiting fungal growth. Spraying with a 0.1%-0.2% baking soda solution can control powdery mildew. (2) Plant ash Take plant ash, add water at a weight ratio of 3:10, soak for 49 hours, and after settling, spray the clear liquid on plants to control aphids and gray mold, etc. (3) Mosquito coil Light a mosquito coil containing pyrethroids and place it in the flowerpot, then seal the pot with a plastic cover and fumigate for 50 minutes-60 minutes to kill red spider mites. (4) Essential balm Spray with essential balm diluted 600-800 times to control aphids, scale insects, red spider mites, etc. (5) Laundry detergent Add water to laundry detergent at a weight ratio of 1:150, stir evenly, and spray once every 5 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays to control aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies, etc. (6) Potassium permanganate Use a 0.02%-0.03% potassium permanganate aqueous solution and spray once every 2-3 days; for severe cases, spray twice, which can control powdery mildew.