What to Do When Syngonium Leaves Turn Yellow? Pay Attention to 5 Points, Improper Water and Fertilizer Are Key

Gardeners should be familiar with Syngonium. Its leaves are emerald green, with distinct white veins on them, like a dancing butterfly, looking extremely lovely. However, during cultivation, many gardeners cause Syngonium leaves to turn yellow due to improper care, which seriously affects its ornamental value. So what should you do when Syngonium leaves turn yellow? Today, the editor will solve this problem.

I. Syngonium Leaves Turning Yellow: Find the Cause

As a common foliage plant, Syngonium is very easy to grow, but because there are many beginners, they inevitably make oversights during cultivation, causing yellow leaves and affecting the plant's ornamental value. As for what to do when Syngonium leaves turn yellow, you just need to calmly find the cause and take remedial measures. Syngonium can still be saved.

II. Causes and Solutions for Syngonium Leaves Turning Yellow

1. Sudden Environmental Change

There are many reasons for Syngonium leaves turning yellow, and the first thing to consider is environmental issues. Because nowadays, many gardeners buy their Syngonium potted plants online, which may cause significant environmental changes that the plant cannot adapt to temporarily, resulting in yellowing leaves.

Solution: It's simple. Ask the seller about the Syngonium's previous growing environment, then recreate a similar environment at home. After a period of time, the plant will recover its health.

2. Improper Watering

①Overwatering: Syngonium prefers a humid environment and needs plenty of water during growth. But you can't water too much. Once you water too frequently, causing waterlogging in the pot, the roots get damaged and leaves turn yellow. Symptoms: Young leaves turn yellow, old leaves show no change. Solution: Remove the plant from the pot, let it dry in the sun, replant after the potting soil dries, and then water moderately.

②Underwatering: For Syngonium to grow healthily, it needs adequate water. Once it lacks water, the leaves will also turn yellow. Symptoms: Yellowing starts from the bottom up, with old leaves turning yellow first. If water shortage lasts slightly longer, the whole plant's leaves turn yellow, or even die. Solution: Water promptly; better too wet than too dry.

3. Improper Fertilization

①Over-fertilizing or too concentrated fertilizer: Syngonium likes fertilizer, and adequate nutrients make it look better. But you can't fertilize too much or too concentrated, otherwise it will burn the roots and cause leaves to turn yellow. Symptoms: Young leaves are thick and glossy, old leaves turn yellow. Solution: Stop fertilizing and promptly flush the potting soil to remove excess fertilizer solution.

②Insufficient fertilizer: Syngonium's growth depends on fertilizer. Once fertilization is insufficient, or no fertilizer is applied for a long time, the leaves can't absorb nutrients and will also turn yellow. Symptoms: Young leaves turn yellow first. If this is noticed and fertilizer is not applied promptly, the whole plant's leaves turn yellow or even die. Solution: Never apply a large amount of concentrated fertilizer at once, to avoid burning the roots.

4. Temperature Too Low

Syngonium likes high temperatures and is not cold-resistant. In winter, once the indoor temperature drops below 10°C, the leaves will turn yellow due to cold damage.

Solution: Regulate the temperature and keep the room temperature at 22-30°C. In addition, when caring for it indoors in winter, never let the potting soil get too wet, otherwise with low temperature and excessive moisture, the leaves will quickly turn yellow.

5. Soil Too Alkaline

Based on Syngonium's growth habits, we know it prefers slightly acidic soil. So when the soil is too alkaline, it lacks the iron element that Syngonium needs, which is also one of the main reasons for Syngonium leaves turning yellow.

Solution: It's simple. Just repot with fresh soil, replacing it with loose, fertile, well-draining, slightly acidic soil. After a period of time, the Syngonium leaves will return to a healthy green.

Overall, Syngonium is very easy to grow, but because many gardeners are beginners, yellowing leaves inevitably occur. However, after reading this article, I believe you have a clear idea now. If yellowing leaves occur, just follow the methods above for remediation. That's all the editor has to share about Syngonium leaves turning yellow, hoping it helps everyone.

What to Do When Syngonium Has Root Rot? 3 Causes and Solutions / Improper Water and Fertilizer Are Key

As a common foliage plant, Syngonium has strong benefits. It not only looks beautiful but also absorbs toxic gases like formaldehyde, making the air fresh. Such a plant is naturally kept by many gardeners at home, but during cultivation, many people encounter root rot. So what should you do when Syngonium has root rot? Today, the editor will answer this for everyone.

I. Syngonium Root Rot: Find the Cause

Gardeners who have grown Syngonium should know it's a plant with strong adaptability and is very easy to grow. But being easy to grow is relative, because if you're a beginner and don't follow Syngonium's cultivation methods, root rot can easily occur. As for what to do when Syngonium has root rot, first find the cause, then address it specifically.

II. Causes and Solutions for Syngonium Root Rot

1. Overwatering

Syngonium is a plant that likes high temperatures and humidity and fears drought, so during cultivation, you need to water more to keep the potting soil moist. But for beginners, it's hard to control the degree of watering, and overwatering often occurs. Once watered too much, it causes waterlogging in the pot, leading to poor root respiration. Over time, the Syngonium roots will rot.

Solution: If it's overwatering and not serious, move the pot to a ventilated, sunny spot to let the water evaporate quickly (note: provide shade when sunlight is strong); if serious, replace with new soil, trim off the rotten roots, and replant.

2. Improper Fertilization

Besides watering, improper fertilization is also one of the causes of Syngonium root rot. During Syngonium's growth, proper fertilization can make it grow better, but once the fertilizer is too concentrated or excessive, causing fertilizer burn, it will lead to root rot, manifested as Syngonium leaves turning yellow.

Solution: When root rot is not serious, water the potting soil to dilute the fertilizer, then trim off the rotten roots and replant. After that, fertilize with technique, preferably with light, frequent applications.

3. Unsuitable Soil

If the above two situations can be ruled out, then Syngonium root rot may be caused by unsuitable soil. Syngonium prefers slightly acidic soil. If the soil is too alkaline, or if you keep watering with purified water causing the soil to become alkaline, over time, root respiration is impeded and rot symptoms appear.

Solution: It's simple. Don't overthink it. Just repot with fresh soil, replacing it with loose, breathable, well-draining, slightly acidic soil.

III. Remedies for Syngonium Root Rot

The above three causes and solutions for Syngonium root rot are specific, but for beginners, it's hard to determine what the problem is, so temporary remedies are important. For this, you can do the following steps:

1. Trim the Roots

If your Syngonium at home has root rot, don't panic. First pull out the entire plant, then trim off the rotten roots and dead leaves. Note: also trim away debris near the rotten roots to prevent the rotting part from spreading and worsening the Syngonium's condition.

2. Disinfect / Change Soil

After trimming off the rotten parts, we need to disinfect the plant. Specific operation: Disinfect the Syngonium with 1% potassium permanganate solution, soak for two hours, then rinse clean and place in the sun for a while.

3. Change the Soil

After completing the above steps, only the last step remains: changing the soil. Repot the treated Syngonium into fresh potting soil. The soil can be a mix of leaf mold, peat moss, and coarse sand.

Through the above introduction, I believe everyone now knows what to do when encountering root rot symptoms! Overall, Syngonium is not hard to grow. As long as you're a bit careful, root rot basically won't occur. Of course, if it does occur, don't panic. Just follow the methods above for remediation. That's all the editor has to share about Syngonium root rot, hoping it helps everyone.

Identification and Prevention of Cold Injury and Freeze Injury in Flowers and Trees

Potted or field-grown flowers and trees, when suddenly hit by a cold wave moving south in late autumn or early winter, or by the sudden arrival of "first frost," can easily suffer cold injury or freeze injury. In spring, when potted flowers are moved outdoors or when covering films are removed from protected cultivation flowers and trees, suddenly encountering a belated "late frost" or "late spring cold" can also very likely cause the plants to suffer cold injury or freeze injury again. Whether it's large-scale production cultivation or small-scale potted plants of flower enthusiasts, prevention of cold injury must be given high priority, otherwise it will bring you serious losses and long-lasting "regret."

Cold injury is a physiological disease, not an infectious disease induced by pathogens. It generally refers to damage caused by low temperatures directly acting on plants, including chilling injury and freeze injury, but not including indirect winter drought, frost heaving, and other winter damage.

Winter drought and frost heaving are indirect damage caused by low temperatures. Winter drought refers to: some evergreen flowers, under certain special weather conditions in winter, such as persistent strong winds or not-too-cold but very sunny days, have relatively high transpiration rates, but due to low soil temperature, roots absorb water slowly, and the plant's internal water cannot maintain normal balance, causing leaves and other tissues to dehydrate and dry out. It is essentially a drought injury; for example, leaves of plants like Banksia rose and Jasminum officinale suddenly dry up on dry, cold, sunny days. Frost heaving refers to: when melted snow water seeps into the soil and refreezes, some plants, especially seedlings or herbaceous flowers, are often lifted along with the frozen soil, breaking the close contact between roots and soil, or even tearing the root mass apart; before the root system has time to recover, it encounters weather conditions that promote strong transpiration, causing the plant to wither and die. For example, wintersweet planted in flower pots, placed in a very cold and shaded location in winter, due to wet potting soil freezing, the root ball is lifted and separated from the pot wall. If not discovered in time and replanted, or moved to a warmer environment, the roots may very likely become exposed, lose water, and necrose, ultimately leading to plant death.

I. Types and Causes of Cold Injury

Because the causes of cold injury differ, the resulting damage also varies. The differences between cold injury and general infectious diseases are: first, it is not contagious, and no pathogens appear on the damaged parts; second, the same plant species placed in the same environment often shows symptoms overnight simultaneously, with tender shoots and new leaves being the most severely affected; third, it occurs under low temperature or particularly cold weather conditions, and the resulting damage is related to the plant species, the duration of low temperature, the speed of temperature recovery, and the lower limit of low temperature.

1. Causes of Chilling Injury

Some ornamental plants native to tropical or subtropical regions suffer severe tissue damage or are killed when affected by low temperatures above freezing (0°C~5°C or slightly higher) for several days or even just a few hours. This cold injury, which does not reach the degree of ice formation within tissues, is called "chilling injury," and is caused by the disruption and disorder of normal cellular metabolism, producing toxic substances that cause damage. Different physiological activities and metabolic processes of plants have their own maximum, minimum, and optimal temperatures. When environmental temperature changes, their physiological activities and metabolic processes are affected differently; if they exceed a certain range, the coordination between them is disrupted, producing large amounts of substances that would not be produced or accumulated under normal conditions. Further research found that under chilling injury conditions, protein hydrolysis rates increase 4-9 times compared to normal conditions; nucleic acid metabolism is also severely disrupted; in addition, temperature drop also affects the oxidative activity of sensitive mitochondrial membranes in plant cells.

From this we can see: first, ornamental plant species that suffer chilling injury are usually plants native to tropical or subtropical regions; second, the temperature condition for chilling injury is above-freezing low temperature damage; third, the duration of chilling injury varies, usually several days, or even just a few hours. Generally in late autumn, early winter, or early spring, sudden temperature changes are most likely to cause chilling injury in tropical or subtropical ornamental flowering and foliage plants. It usually manifests as overly tender new shoots and young leaves "turning purple," "turning brown," "turning yellow," "wilting," "necrosis," etc., such as frost-hit Salvia splendens, Tradescantia, Kalanchoe, Bougainvillea, purple bamboo leaf, etc., all belonging to this category.

2. Causes of Freeze Injury

Freeze injury refers to damage caused by ice formation within the tissues of ornamental plants when exposed to temperatures below 0°C, or when encountering prolonged ultra-low temperatures.

Ice crystal formation within plant tissues occurs in two ways: one is intracellular ice formation, and the other is intercellular ice formation. The former refers to when plant tissues freeze rapidly, ice crystals form in the vacuoles and protoplasm, destroying the protoplasm structure and causing protein denaturation; some membranes within the protoplasm are also punctured, usually leading to tissue death. Thus, the result of this "freeze injury" is very severe and irreversible. For example, in early winter when a cold wave suddenly moves south from the north, causing rapid and significant temperature drops in a short time, the winter of 2004 caused a large number of foliage plants in southern China to die from freeze injury; in early December 2005, temperatures in the Hefei area suddenly dropped from 12°C~15°C to -3°C~-5°C, causing severe freezing damage to the leaves and young stems of many field-grown Magnoliaceae plants, such as Manglietia chingii, Michelia yunshanensis, Manglietia insignis, and Manglietia ruyuanensis. The latter refers to when, as environmental temperature gradually decreases, ice crystals gradually form within plant tissues. Since the solution concentration in intercellular spaces is generally lower than that of the protoplasm and vacuolar fluid, when the cooling rate is not too fast, water in intercellular spaces reaches freezing point and freezes before the cell interior, and the formation of ice crystals causes water within the protoplast to move outward, resulting in cell sap concentration, protoplasm dehydration, protein precipitation, cell membrane denaturation, and cell wall rupture; when ice crystals form in intercellular spaces, whether the cell tissue is killed depends on the cell's freezing tolerance and the rate and frequency of freezing and thawing; one mechanism of freeze injury is protoplasmic dehydration, and its consequences are the same as dehydration under drought conditions, namely, due to mechanical stress generated by cell wall deformation, the protoplasm structure suffers irreversible damage; after cell sap concentration, the concentration of salt ions and organic acids increases, which may also be toxic to the protoplasm. The severity of freeze injury is related to the rate of freezing. The faster the freezing, the more severe the damage, because when freezing is fast, the possibility of intracellular ice formation is greater; if ice formation is limited to intercellular spaces, then the faster the freezing, the faster the cells lose water and shrink, and the greater the destructive effect of mechanical stress. The severe consequences of freeze injury are also related to the thawing rate of frozen tissues. Generally, in the case of intracellular ice formation, tissue necrosis inevitably results, regardless of the thawing rate; in the case of intercellular ice formation, the faster the thawing, the greater the damage, because the cell wall rapidly absorbs water from melted ice and expands, but the protoplasm attached to the cell wall absorbs water more slowly, and thus is torn and damaged. For example, after severe freezing of Anisodontea and Bougainvillea, due to rapid temperature recovery, the bark is torn and the plant dies.

II. Specific Manifestations of Cold Injury in Ornamental Plants

1. Xylem Turning Black

Among the various tissues of mature branches of woody flowers, the cambium is the most cold-resistant, followed by the phloem, while the xylem and pith are the least cold-resistant. Therefore, mild freeze injury only shows pith discoloration, moderate freeze injury shows xylem discoloration, and only severe freeze injury damages the phloem. If the cambium in the stem or branches discolors, it loses its ability to recover, possibly leading to the death of the entire plant.

2. Bark Cracking and Necrosis

Some flower and tree species native to tropical and southern subtropical regions with high water content in their bark, such as Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Anisodontea, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum, Pachira aquatica, Euphorbia milii, Ficus 'Golden Coin,' etc. When environmental temperature drops to around -3°C, not only will the leaves and branches freeze to death, but even the outer bark of the stem, especially the root collar area, will crack and necrose due to water in the tissues forming ice crystals and cold expansion and heat contraction, or even the entire plant dies.

Chilling Injury in Michelia alba

Chilling Injury in Tradescantia pallida


Chilling Injury in Anthurium

Chilling Injury in Alocasia

Chilling Injury in Kalanchoe

Chilling Injury in Philodendron 'Golden Emperor'

Freeze Injury in Euphorbia trigona

3. Color Changes in Tender Shoots and New Leaves
First is "yellowing." In cold seasons, due to excessively low temperatures, some flowers that require higher overwintering temperatures will also turn yellow or even drop leaves due to cold injury, such as Anthurium, spider plants, trailing pothos, Peperomia watermelon, etc.; second is "whitening." For example, spider plants, Hippeastrum, Tradescantia zebrina, etc., placed or planted outdoors, when encountering lower temperatures, new shoots and young leaves lose their original luster and show abnormal changes of "whitening and loss of green"; third is "scorching." The new shoots and young leaves of some ornamental plants, due to frost damage, show "scorching" of new leaves, such as spider plants, Clivia, Fatsia japonica, etc.; fourth is "turning purple." Some ornamental plants, when encountering low temperatures, show "purple-brown" discoloration at leaf tips or margins, such as Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Cymbidium sinense, Camellia (new leaves), etc.
4. New Shoots and Young Leaves Look Scalded by Boiling Water
Some ornamental plants with high water content in leaves, new shoots, or stems, including some succulents, such as pothos, Fagraea ceilanica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Begonia elatior, Aptenia cordifolia, Clivia, Alocasia, Aloe, Kalanchoe, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix canariensis (seedlings), Washingtonia filifera, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Spathiphyllum 'Sensation,' etc., when environmental temperature suddenly drops from 5°C~8°C to below -3°C~-5°C and lasts for a long time, their newly sprouted tender branches and leaves look as if scalded by boiling water or cooked, all dying in a short time, with bark cracking and peeling.
5. New Shoots and Young Leaves Turn Brown, Wither, and Necrose
Some underdeveloped new shoots and young leaves of ornamental plants, such as Ficus 'Golden Coin,' Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Nerium oleander, Pachira aquatica, Cycas, etc., look as if burned by fire, very unsightly.
6. Plant Body Necrosis and Hollowing
Generally, succulents, when encountering freeze injury, often become shriveled and hollow, with the entire plant necrosing. Such as Echinopsis, Opuntia, Euphorbia, three-angled cactus, etc.

III. Prevention and Remediation of Cold Injury in Ornamental Plants

1. Prevention of Cold Injury in Ornamental Plants
(1) Choose Relatively Cold-Resistant Flower Species
Flower enthusiasts should choose foliage, flowering, or fruiting plant species based on the lowest temperature in normal years in your area or the highest room temperature you can maintain indoors in winter (generally 5°C~6°C). In ordinary homes in the Yangtze River basin, without heating equipment, you can choose Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Clivia, Belgian azalea, Prunus mume, wintersweet, Buddha's hand, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai,' Anthurium, Cycas revoluta, etc. You should not choose Codiaeum variegatum, Calathea, Fittonia, Adenium obesum, Hypoestes, Polyscias, Phalaenopsis, Dieffenbachia 'Marianne,' Syngonium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, etc.
(2) Carry Out Cold Resistance Training in Stages
Generally, potted Pinus parviflora, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora, Pinus taiwanensis, Chaenomeles, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Ginkgo biloba, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, etc., can be considered for overwintering in the ground. It is best to wait until their growth for the year has ended, then carry out freeze resistance training in several stages. The first stage is 0°C~6°C, lasting several days to several weeks, with ample light. For evergreens, this allows starch in the leaves to convert to sugar, and large vacuoles to divide into several small vacuoles; some fatty plant species can convert starch to fat. The second stage is -3°C~-5°C, where the fine structures and enzymes within the protoplasm reorganize, enabling cells to tolerate dehydration caused by freezing. The third stage is between -10°C~-15°C, giving the protoplasm stronger freezing tolerance, thus surviving the cold winter. Some less cold-resistant succulents, such as Aporocactus, Haworthia, Crassula arborescens, Graptopetalum paraguayense, etc., if kept on a balcony or outdoors for a long time, go through a gradual adaptation process and can improve from tolerating 0°C to tolerating -5°C~-7°C.



Freeze Injury in Hippeastrum

Freeze Injury in Camellia

Freeze Injury in Archontophoenix

Freeze Injury in Roystonea regia ⟦105⟦Freeze Injury in Aloe

Aloe Cold Damage

Freeze Injury in Schefflera

Freeze Injury in Philodendron xanadu

Freeze Injury in Bougainvillea

Freeze Injury in Clivia

Freeze Injury in Kumquat

Freeze Injury in Phalaenopsis

Freeze Injury in Phoenix roebelenii

Freeze Injury in Musa basjoo

Freeze Injury in Osmanthus

Freeze Injury in Rhapis excelsa

Freeze Injury in Monstera deliciosa

Freeze Injury in Cycas

Freeze Injury in Fatsia japonica


Freeze Injury in Anisodontea

Freeze Injury in Nerium oleander

Cold damage to fishtail palm

Cold damage to round-leaf lady palm

Cold damage to money tree

Trunk freezing of sago palm

(3) Strengthen cold-resistant cultivation management

After Mid-Autumn Festival, control the water and fertilizer supply for potted ornamental plants, appropriately increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, promote lignification of branches and full development of tissues, and enhance their cold resistance, for example, by watering or spraying a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. Pruning in winter or manually removing some leaves (such as on white orchid) reduces the transpiration area and can produce good results in preventing low-temperature damage. Strengthen pest and disease control, promote robust plant growth, and prevent the appearance of autumn shoots or tender shoots.

(4) Provide freeze protection for the tree body

For large field-grown camellias, sweet osmanthus, banana shrubs, southern magnolias, Canary Island date palms, sago palms, etc., the trunk can be wrapped with straw rope or plastic film, the trunk painted white or the canopy sprayed white (7%-10% lime milk); the canopy can be covered and bound with plastic film, or wax preparations or liquid plastic can be sprayed, all of which can provide a certain degree of freeze protection.

(5) Artificial heating to drive away cold

For potted plants placed in greenhouses, during particularly cold weather, electric heaters or coal stoves can be used to raise the temperature inside the greenhouse, especially with focused heating required at 5-6 o'clock in the morning, the coldest time of the day; outside the greenhouse, straw curtains or felt blankets can be added for insulation. Generally, at home, double-layer plastic bags can be placed over the plants; for potted flowers kept indoors, if conditions permit, an air conditioner can be turned on from about 6 a.m. to about 10 p.m. to prevent cold damage to anthuriums, prayer plants, clivias, Phalaenopsis orchids, Oncidium orchids, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, etc. For field-grown flowering trees such as camellias, sweet osmanthus, and banana shrubs, spraying water on the canopy at dawn when frost is about to occur or igniting frost-prevention smoke agents before morning frost can effectively prevent “radiation frost.”

(6) Delay bud break to prevent late frost

Using growth regulators or other methods to prolong plant dormancy and delay bud break can avoid frost caused by early spring cold waves. For example, spraying field-grown flowering plants before bud break or in late autumn with B9, ethephon, maleic hydrazide, potassium naphthaleneacetate (250 mg/kg-500 mg/kg), or succinic acid 2,2-dimethylhydrazide (0.1%-0.2%) solution all have relatively good effects. If potted flowers encounter a "late frost" after being moved outdoors, they can be covered with double-layer large plastic film and uncovered after daytime temperatures rise again.

2. Treatment of cold damage in ornamental plants

(1) Reasonable pruning

For plants suffering cold damage, reasonable pruning measures should be taken, and heavy pruning should not be carried out, otherwise harmful side effects will occur. So how should the pruning amount be properly controlled? It is necessary both to cut the damaged organs back to healthy parts to promote branch renewal and growth, and to ensure the relative balance between aboveground and underground organs. Generally, pruning immediately after damage can retain 1 cm-2 cm of the damaged branch portion to prevent the healthy branch portion from shrinking downward further; if pruning is done after the beginning of spring, it can be cut back to healthy parts to facilitate wound healing; practice has proved that damaged plants given reasonable pruning recover faster than heavily pruned or unpruned plants.

For generally evergreen potted woody flowering plants and foliage plants, all dead parts should be cut off in time, and they should be moved to a relatively warm environment.

(2) Protect and repair wounds

For large flowering plants with freeze damage only to a local part of the trunk base (northwest direction), the necrotic part can be cut out, and after applying wound healing agent, it should be wrapped and protected with film to create a relatively warm micro-environment for them; for some damaged bonsai plants, bridge grafting or approach grafting to replace roots can be used for remediation.

(3) Strengthen pest and disease control

After ornamental plants suffer low-temperature damage, because their tree vigor is relatively weak, they are highly susceptible to pest and disease invasion, so chemical agents can be applied in combination with freeze-damage control. Among these, fungicide plus moisturizing adhesive has a relatively good effect, followed by fungicide plus high-lipid film; both are better than simple fungicide or whitewash. This is because the main agent fungicide can only perform surface disinfection and sterilization, while the auxiliary agents moisturizing adhesive and high-lipid film both provide moisturizing and warming effects, all of which are beneficial to the formation of callus tissue in frost-cracked bark, thereby promoting healing of freeze injuries.

(4) Fertilize with caution

For plants that have suffered freeze damage, high-concentration chemical fertilizers should not be applied immediately after overwintering; instead, after temperatures rise and the root system recovers its absorption function, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should be sprayed or watered on, for example, 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.3% urea solution can be alternately sprayed or watered on, with very good results.