Is Calathea makoyana easy to grow? Care for it this way in winter and clean the leaves once a month
The beautiful Calathea makoyana is surely familiar to flower lovers. It stays green all year round, and its leaves, marked with a peacock-tail pattern, leave a deep impression at first sight. So is Calathea makoyana easy to grow? It is known that Calathea makoyana likes a warm environment, so whether it is easy to grow mainly depends on winter. So how should Calathea makoyana be cared for in winter?
The beautiful Calathea makoyana is surely familiar to flower lovers. It stays green all year round, and its leaves, marked with a peacock-tail pattern, leave a deep impression at first sight. So is Calathea makoyana easy to grow? It is known that Calathea makoyana likes a warm environment, so whether it is easy to grow mainly depends on winter. So how should Calathea makoyana be cared for in winter? Today the editor will explain this in detail for everyone.
1. Is Calathea makoyana easy to grow? Yes, it is easy to grow
According to available information, Calathea makoyana likes warm, humid, semi-shaded environments and cannot tolerate direct sunlight, and these conditions are very easy to meet indoors. So is Calathea makoyana easy to grow? Clearly it is very easy to grow. But Calathea makoyana is not cold-tolerant, so in winter you should also take good cold protection measures. However, if you want it to overwinter safely, controlling the temperature alone is far from enough; you should also do enough work in other aspects.
2. How to care for Calathea makoyana in winter
In winter, Calathea makoyana stops growing, so at this time stop fertilizing and appropriately supplement light; in addition, Calathea makoyana should be kept indoors and the room temperature should be maintained at 16-18°C; moreover, in order to keep the leaves of Calathea makoyana beautiful, you should also clean the leaves with clean water once a month and wipe off the dust on the surface. How to care for Calathea makoyana in winter is described in more detail below:
1. Control the temperature
How to care for Calathea makoyana in winter? First, of course, pay attention to temperature control. Calathea makoyana likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment. Indoors in winter, the overwintering temperature must not be lower than 16°C, otherwise the leaf color will be damaged by cold or the plant may die.
Temperature control measures: In order to prevent the plant from being damaged by cold due to the large difference between day and night temperatures indoors in winter, in addition to keeping the room temperature at 16-18°C, you should also cover the entire flower pot with a plastic bag to keep it warm and moist.
2. Stop fertilizing and supplement light
In winter, the growth of Calathea makoyana slows down, so fertilizing should be stopped at this time. However, slow growth is still growth, so light should still be supplemented in winter. Because winter light is weak, you can place Calathea makoyana on a balcony with better light so it fully receives light and does not need shading.
Notes: Because Calathea makoyana normally grows under semi-shade, many flower lovers do not change its position in winter either. As a result, the light may be weak, Calathea makoyana will gradually weaken, and the leaves will gradually lose their luster.
3. Maintain ventilation
In winter, the air is relatively dry, and indoors it is generally very closed up. This is normal, but if you keep Calathea makoyana at home then it is not good, because under conditions of dry air and poor ventilation, the plant is easily attacked by diseases. So in ordinary care, pay attention to keeping the environment ventilated. In dry and high-temperature seasons, spray water into the air more often to increase humidity.
4. Clean the leaves
The nutrients of Calathea makoyana basically come from photosynthesis, and in winter sunlight is very weak. At this time, if the leaves are very dirty, it will seriously affect the plant's photosynthesis. The result is insufficient accumulation of its own nutrients, poor plant growth, and the appearance of yellow leaves and curled leaves on Calathea makoyana. So for how to care for Calathea makoyana in winter, you had best clean the leaves with clean water once a month.
Calathea makoyana Calathea makoyana illustrated guide: how to grow Calathea makoyana / how to propagate Calathea makoyana
Calathea makoyana profileCalathea makoyana Calathea makoyana
Calathea makoyana cultivation methods and precautions Introduction to Calathea makoyana
Calathea makoyana is native to tropical America and the islands of the Indian Ocean. It is a perennial herb, up to 60 cm tall, with rhizomes; long, narrow, spear-shaped leaves grow directly from the roots, and the plant forms clumps; the leaves have green markings in different shades, and the undersides of the leaves are mostly brownish red. The leaves of this species are silver-green, with dark green spots radiating from the midvein, and on the back there are brownish red spots of the same shape. The formaldehyde-removal efficacy value of Calathea makoyana is half that of spider plant, but it is still much higher than ordinary plants. In addition, it is also an expert at removing ammonia pollution from the air (within 10 sq m it can remove 0.86 mg of formaldehyde and 2.19 mg of ammonia).
Morphological characteristics of Calathea makoyana
Perennial evergreen herb. 30-60 cm tall, leaves 15-20 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, ovate-elliptic, thin, leathery, petioles purplish red. On the green leaf surface there is a faint metallic luster, bright and gorgeous, and along both sides of the midvein there are feather-like, dark green, long elliptic velvety patches arranged alternately left and right. The leaf underside is purplish red.
The base has tubers, and the plant is 30-50 cm tall. Leaves ovate-elliptic, basal, entire, 20-30 cm long and about 10 cm wide, deep purple, with white hairs; because on both sides of the main vein on the leaf surface there are dense filamentous markings extending from the central vein to the leaf margin, arranged in a feather-like pattern, and between the lateral veins there are obvious small veins resembling peacock tail feathers, it is therefore named Calathea makoyana; the ornamental markings on the leaf underside are light purple, and the petiole is deep purple.
Calathea makoyana plants are densely clumping and upright. The plant is 20-60 cm tall, the petiole is purplish red and grows from the rhizome, and the leaf blade is thin leathery, ovate-elliptic, 10-20 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, yellow-green. On the green surface of the leaf there is a faint metallic luster, bright and gorgeous, and on both sides of the main vein there are alternately arranged feather-like dark green long elliptic velvety markings; opposite the markings, the leaf underside is purple, arranged alternately left and right, shaped like beautiful peacock tail feathers, hence the name Calathea makoyana. The leaves have "sleep movement", that is, at night the leaf blade folds upward from the leaf sheath to the blade, clasping the stem, and spreads open again after sunlight in the morning, which is very interesting.
Ecological habits of Calathea makoyana
It likes semi-shade, cannot tolerate direct sunlight, and is adapted to growing in warm, humid environments.
It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments and is not cold-tolerant. The optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 25°C, and above 35°C is unfavorable to its growth; although it is in a semi-dormant state during overwintering, the room temperature must not be lower than 13°C to 16°C, and in other seasons normal room temperature is sufficient.
It requires relatively high air humidity, preferably reaching 70% to 80%; it dislikes dry air and dry potting soil, but it also dislikes water accumulation in the pot, otherwise the plant is very likely to suffer root rot. During indoor care, frequently spraying the leaves with cool boiled water works well.
Calathea makoyana is native to tropical rainforest understories. Like other plants in the same Marantaceae family, it has a common feature: at the junction of the leaf blade and petiole there is an obviously swollen joint, commonly called the pulvinus. Inside the pulvinus are water-storage cells, which have the function of adjusting leaf orientation. When the temperature is suitable and humidity is high, the pulvinus is full of water, the leaves stand clearly upright, and the plant shows full vitality. If the temperature is high and humidity low, or if it is exposed to sunlight, the pulvinus loses water and the plant appears wilted and weak; conversely, if the temperature is low and humidity high, it can cause rotten leaves and rotten roots. Therefore, high temperature and high humidity are most favorable for growth. When the temperature decreases, humidity should be reduced accordingly.
Cultivation techniques of Calathea makoyana Growing techniques
Production standard: 14 cm pot, height 35-40 cm, crown width 25-30 cm, 1-2 plants/pot.
Substrate preparation: Use a substrate with good looseness, drainage and aeration as the growing substrate (imported peat with a specification of 5-40 can be used). Before transplanting, stir the substrate with 1000 times chlorothalonil solution, mix the substrate and the medicated water evenly (standard for adding water: after adding water and mixing evenly, when you tightly squeeze a handful of peat, water seeps out from between your fingers), then plant in cups.
Requirements for screening seedlings: choose high-quality professionally produced seedlings, seedling height 7-8 cm (with basal substrate), 4-5 leaves, free of pests and diseases, and free of dead leaves and yellow leaves.
Potting: For old pots that are reused, they must be soaked in 1000 times potassium permanganate solution for more than half an hour, then rinsed with clean water and dried for later use; new pots can be used directly. Generally, first use smaller flower pots (9 cm plastic pots) for planting. When planting, first place an appropriate amount of substrate at the bottom of the cup, then move the screened seedlings into the cup. Small seedlings can be planted slightly deeper, preferably so that the base of the plant is slightly above level; 1-2 plants/pot; the substrate should be moderately firm, filled to 9/10 of the cup, gently shake the pot soil, and water only half-soaked or surface water for the settling water.
Cultivation of Calathea makoyana
(1) Temperature and environment: Calathea makoyana is native to Brazil and likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment. It fears low temperatures and dry wind, has relatively poor resistance to low temperatures, and dislikes exposure to sunlight. In summer it should be cultivated under a shade frame. When the temperature is higher than 30°C, the leaf margins scorch, new buds sprout less, and the leaves turn yellow, so water should be sprayed frequently to maintain moisture and lower the temperature. In winter, sufficient sunlight should be provided.
(2) Soil: Calathea makoyana likes slightly acidic leaf mold or culture soil that drains well, is fertile and loose. The growing soil can be mixed with a small amount of fully decomposed base fertilizer, leaf mold, peat soil and river sand in equal amounts to form culture soil.
(3) Water and fertilizer: Calathea makoyana likes a humid environment, and sufficient water should be provided during the growing season. If it goes dormant at low temperature in winter, then watering should be controlled, and it is enough to keep the potting soil from drying out; after new leaves emerge the following spring, gradually resume normal watering. During the growing season, apply a liquid fertilizer once a month to Calathea makoyana to supplement the nutrients needed for the replacement of old and new leaves, and to promote a robust plant and vivid leaf color. When fertilizer is lacking, the plant clearly becomes shorter, the leaf color is pale yellow, and the metallic luster is not fresh. Fertilizer application should mainly be phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and nitrogen fertilizer must not be excessive. Generally, use 0.2% liquid fertilizer sprayed directly on the leaf surface, then rinse with a small amount of water to prevent fertilizer damage. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are also extremely beneficial to the sprouting and growth of new buds. Fertilizing should be stopped in winter.
(4) Pest and disease control: Calathea makoyana has relatively few pests and diseases, but under conditions of dry air and poor ventilation, it is prone to scale insects, whiteflies, etc., which can be killed by spraying with 1000 times 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate or 1500 times 40% omethoate.
Cultivation management (Part 1)
For potted Calathea makoyana, use loose, fertile, well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic loam. Generally, it can be made by mixing 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, with a small amount of bean cake added as base fertilizer. Do not use heavy clay garden soil. When potting, first place a 3 cm thick layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.
During the growing period, sufficient water should be provided. Especially in summer and autumn, in addition to frequently keeping the potting soil moist, the leaves must also be sprayed with water frequently to cool and maintain moisture; it requires relatively high air humidity, preferably reaching 70% to 80%; it dislikes dry air and dry potting soil, but must not have water accumulation. After late autumn, water should be controlled to help it resist cold and overwinter. In winter, maintain a dry environment; if too wet, the basal leaves become withered and scorched, affecting its ornamental value.
From May to September, during the growing season, it should be placed in shade or semi-shade, maintaining a light transmittance of 40%-60%, avoiding direct sunlight. Too strong light or dry air can easily cause scorched leaf margins and leaf tips and dull, lusterless leaf markings; but light should not be too weak either. If kept for a long time in a dark room with low temperature and insufficient light, it will also weaken in growth, be unfavorable for leaf color formation, and lose the unique metallic luster of the leaf surface. In winter it can receive direct sunlight through glass.
Cultivation management (Part 2)
For soilless cultivation of Calathea makoyana, either plastic pots or antique-style ceramic flower pots can be used. The substrate can be perlite:vermiculite at 1:1 or perlite:peat:slag at 1:1:1:1 mixed substrate. When potting, spread a layer of ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, then place the seedling upright, add the prepared substrate until the flower pot is eight-tenths full, press firmly with your hands, and finally add another layer of ceramsite on top of the pot to prevent algae growth after sun exposure and to prevent washing away the substrate or knocking over the seedlings. For the nutrient solution, you can choose the aforementioned foliage plant nutrient solution or compound flower fertilizer. The first time you water with nutrient solution, dilute it 3-5 times and water thoroughly until exudate appears in the tray at the bottom of the pot. For regular liquid replenishment, do it 1-2 times a week, 100 ml each time; for regular water replenishment, keep the substrate moist. Do not add water on days when liquid fertilizer is added. Water must not remain in the tray at the bottom of the pot for a long time, so as to facilitate aeration and prevent root rot.
Calathea makoyana and related plants most fear direct sunlight; after exposure to direct light they develop curled leaves and dry edges, so they must be placed indoors in a spot with bright scattered light all year round. In northern regions, before winter heating starts and for a period after heating stops, pay attention to cold protection and warmth. The room temperature must not be lower than 13°C, otherwise it is prone to cold damage, root rot and yellow leaves. You can put a plastic bag over the flower pot to protect the plant, which also increases air humidity.
Calathea makoyana fears dryness. In dry seasons and during high-temperature periods in summer, spray water on the leaves frequently; during winter heating, do not place it near a stove, radiator or air conditioner. If necessary, cover it with a plastic bag, and open it frequently to spray water for moisture retention and ventilation. During the low-temperature period in winter, reduce the frequency of liquid feeding and watering, and water only after the surface substrate dries to avoid root rot and leaf rot.
Hydroponic method
For hydroponic cultivation of Calathea makoyana, either plastic pots or antique-style ceramic flower pots can be used. The substrate can be perlite:vermiculite at 1:1 or perlite:peat:slag at 1:1:1:1 mixed substrate. When potting, spread a layer of ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, then place the seedling upright, add the prepared substrate until the flower pot is eight-tenths full, press firmly with your hands, and finally add another layer of ceramsite on top of the pot to prevent algae growth after sun exposure and to prevent washing away the substrate or knocking over the seedlings.
For hydroponics, select small soil-grown plants with robust growth and use the root-washing method for hydroponic cultivation, adding clean water to 1/2-2/3 of the root system. Or in spring and autumn, while dividing the clumps, select clumps with 5-9 leaves, carefully wash off the soil, remove dead leaves and rotten roots, soak in 0.05%-0.1% potassium permanganate solution for about 10 minutes, then rinse clean with clear water, then plant in a container, add clean water and leave 1/3-1/2 of the root system exposed above the water.
At the initial stage of hydroponics, the leaves may curl. It is advisable to place it in a ventilated, shaded place and appropriately spray water on the leaves, changing the clean water once every 1-2 days. The leaves will soon return to normal, and after about 10 days new roots will grow. When the plant has fully adapted to the hydroponic environment, add foliage plant nutrient solution for maintenance, replace the nutrient solution once every 3-4 weeks, and at ordinary times only replenish the water that is lost.
For the nutrient solution, you can choose the aforementioned foliage plant nutrient solution or compound flower fertilizer. The first time you water with nutrient solution, dilute it 3-5 times and water thoroughly until exudate appears in the tray at the bottom of the pot. For regular liquid replenishment, do it 1-2 times a week, 100 ml each time; for regular water replenishment, keep the substrate moist. Do not add water on days when liquid fertilizer is added. Water must not remain in the tray at the bottom of the pot for a long time, so as to facilitate aeration and prevent root rot.
Fertilization matters
When Calathea makoyana lacks fertilizer, the plant is clearly shorter, the leaf color is dull, and the golden luster is not vivid. During the growing season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 20 days, with a nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium ratio of 2:1:1, which can make the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Be sure not to use too high a proportion of nitrogen fertilizer. For example, spraying 0.2% liquid fertilizer directly on the leaf surface every 10 days is extremely beneficial to sprouting and growth. Stop fertilization in winter and summer.
Precautions
Calathea makoyana likes high temperature and humidity. The optimum growth temperature is 18°C-25°C. It likes humid air and grows fastest from May to October when the temperature is above 20°C. From October each year to April of the following year, during the low-temperature season, it should be moved into a greenhouse to overwinter in the north. The winter overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C, otherwise the leaf color becomes dark, the leaves curl, and the leaf tips turn yellow. If the cold damage is slight, promptly changing the environmental conditions will still allow new leaves to emerge the following spring. If the cold damage is severe, the leaves will die one after another, and even the whole plant may die. If the indoor temperature difference between day and night is large, you can cover the pot with plastic film or use a glass box to keep it warm and moist, and also wash the leaf surface with warm water once a month to maintain the leaf color. Each spring, after the temperature steadily rises to 20°C, you can repot once. When repotting, add new culture soil and cut off residual roots and dead leaves, then replant to facilitate growth.
What should you do if the leaves of Calathea makoyana shrink?
Sometimes, home-grown Calathea makoyana develops shrunken and curled leaves that no longer spread freely. This is caused by unsuitable environmental temperature and humidity for cultivating Calathea makoyana. A high-temperature and high-humidity environment is favorable for the growth of Calathea makoyana. If for a period the indoor temperature is lower than 18°C and the humidity is lower than 60%, the above situation will occur. If measures are still not taken, over time the leaves and roots will rot, and it may even wither and die.
In addition to strengthening routine water and fertilizer management, the following measures should also be taken:
1. Spraying: except on overcast and rainy days, spray the plant and the surrounding environment 3 times a day;
2. Bagging: if the leaves are especially severely shrunken, you can cover the whole plant with a plastic bag and poke some small holes about 5 mm above the pot rim, which can both maintain a certain humidity and allow appropriate ventilation to help it recover.
The reasons why the leaves of Calathea makoyana curl and are accompanied by partial death and yellowing of the lower leaves are too little watering and too low humidity. Potted Calathea makoyana should be kept with the potting soil moist at all times, and you cannot wait until the potting soil dries before watering. Calathea makoyana is native to the tropical rainforests of South America and requires a very humid special environment. In addition to keeping the potting soil moist without water accumulation and root rot, it should also maintain relatively high air humidity in the surrounding environment. For this reason, in summer it should be placed in a semi-shaded location, spray water on the leaves 2 to 3 times a day, and sprinkle water on the surrounding ground to increase humidity and lower temperature, promoting robust growth of the plant.
In addition, be sure not to let water accumulate in the potting soil, and do not apply raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer or heavy fertilizer, otherwise the fine nutrient roots will rot, which will likewise cause its leaves to curl and turn yellow.
How do you carry out soilless cultivation of Calathea makoyana?
Calathea makoyana is mainly propagated by division and tissue culture. Division propagation is best done in late spring and early summer. When dividing, each daughter plant should retain at least 5 leaves and a relatively large root system, otherwise it will affect survival and growth after survival. When raising seedlings in large quantities, tissue culture is better for propagation.
For soilless cultivation of Calathea makoyana, either plastic pots or antique-style ceramic flower pots can be used. The substrate can be perlite:vermiculite at 1:1 or perlite:peat:slag at 1:1:1:1 mixed substrate. When potting, spread a layer of ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, then place the seedling upright, add the prepared substrate until the flower pot is eight-tenths full, press firmly with your hands, and finally add another layer of ceramsite on top of the pot to prevent algae growth after sun exposure and to prevent washing away the substrate or knocking over the seedlings. For the nutrient solution, you can choose the aforementioned foliage plant nutrient solution or compound flower fertilizer. The first time you water with nutrient solution, dilute it 3-5 times and water thoroughly until exudate appears in the tray at the bottom of the pot. For regular liquid replenishment, do it 1-2 times a week, 100 ml each time; for regular water replenishment, keep the substrate moist. Do not add water on days when liquid fertilizer is added. Water must not remain in the tray at the bottom of the pot for a long time, so as to facilitate aeration and prevent root rot.
Calathea makoyana and related plants most fear direct sunlight; after exposure to direct light they develop curled leaves and dry edges, so they must be placed indoors in a spot with bright scattered light all year round. In northern regions, before winter heating starts and for a period after heating stops, pay attention to cold protection and warmth. The room temperature must not be lower than 13°C, otherwise it is prone to cold damage, root rot and yellow leaves. You can put a plastic bag over the flower pot to protect the plant, which also increases air humidity.
Calathea makoyana fears dryness. In dry seasons and during high-temperature periods in summer, spray water on the leaves frequently; during winter heating, do not place it near a stove, radiator or air conditioner. If necessary, cover it with a plastic bag, and open it frequently to spray water for moisture retention and ventilation. During the low-temperature period in winter, reduce the frequency of liquid feeding and watering, and water only after the surface substrate dries to avoid root rot and leaf rot.
What is the reason for the curled edges of Calathea makoyana leaves?
The optimum growth temperature for Calathea makoyana is about 22°C. If the summer temperature is higher than 35°C, not only will plant growth stagnate, but the leaf color will also turn yellow and lose ornamental value. If the winter temperature is lower than 15°C, the plant grows slowly; below 10°C the leaves easily curl; below 5°C it is prone to cold damage, and in severe cases it can cause the whole plant to die. Therefore, in winter be sure to pay attention to cold protection and warmth, and the room temperature should preferably be kept above 13°C.
What should you do if the leaves of Calathea makoyana turn yellow?
Calathea makoyana likes semi-shade, cannot tolerate direct sunlight, and is adapted to growing in warm, humid environments. Too much or too little water, too strong or too weak sunlight, and too much or too little fertilizer can all cause leaves to turn yellow, but the yellowing conditions differ. You should carefully observe and analyze the cause and correct it. Water-yellow: young leaves are dark yellow and lusterless, old leaves show no obvious change, stems are thin and yellow-green, and new shoots shrink and do not grow, indicating overwatering. Take the plant out of the pot, place it in a ventilated and cool place to let the soil ball dry naturally, then put it back in the pot.
Drought-yellow: the yellowing from lack of water is different from the yellowing from too much water. The yellowing from lack of water is withered and dry at the leaf tips or edges, and the old leaves wither and yellow from the bottom upward and fall off, but new leaves grow relatively normally. Just pay attention to watering enough and watering thoroughly.
Scorch-yellow: strong direct sunlight shining on some shade-loving flowers (such as spider plant, Calathea makoyana, hosta, etc.) easily causes the leaf tips and leaf margins to wither and dry, and yellow patches appear on the sun-facing parts of the leaves. Move it to a shaded place.
Light-deficiency yellow: if placed in a shaded environment for a long time, the leaves cannot get enough sunlight and cannot form chlorophyll, and the whole plant's leaves turn yellow and then fall off. Supplementing light can avoid this problem.
Fertilizer-yellow: yellowing of flowers caused by too much fertilizer or too high concentration is shown by dry brown tips on new leaves; generally the leaf surface is thick and lusterless, and uneven and not smooth, while old leaves scorch yellow and fall off. Fertilizing should be stopped immediately, and in severe cases a large amount of clean water should be used to flush out part of the fertilizer.
Fertilizer-deficiency yellow: shown by the color of young leaves becoming lighter, yellow or pale green, while old leaves are relatively normal or gradually turn from green to yellow. Check the potting soil; if there is caking, change the soil. At ordinary times apply thin fertilizer frequently and water with some alum water at the appropriate time ("Calathea makoyana" is a foliage plant and should be given fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer).
How can you make the leaf color of Calathea makoyana more beautiful?
Calathea makoyana is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Calathea in the family Marantaceae. On the leaf surface there are feather-like markings alternating dark green with white or pale yellow, and it has a unique metallic luster, just like the tail feathers of a peacock, so it is called Calathea makoyana. The leaf underside of Calathea makoyana is gray-green, the markings are dark green, and the leaf back is purple with the same outstanding markings. It is suitable for pot cultivation and for indoor display, and is very unique and exquisite.
Calathea makoyana is native to South America and likes high temperature, high humidity and a semi-shaded environment, and is not cold-tolerant. It should be placed in a brighter place, avoiding direct light, and humidity should be high. The optimum growth temperature is 18-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 13-16°C. In winter place it in a sunny spot and pay attention to cold protection. Calathea makoyana has relatively high humidity requirements and should normally be kept at 70%-80% humidity, so in home cultivation of Calathea makoyana humidity becomes the key to cultivation. In spring and summer, in addition to timely watering, spray and wash once every 3-5 days. If conditions permit, use a humidifier to increase indoor humidity. To make the leaf color glossy and gorgeous, in addition to applying dilute liquid fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks during the growing period, you should also apply nutrient solution 1-2 times a month. Let Calathea makoyana see a bit more sunlight; if placed in a dim place for a long time, the leaves will lose their unique gorgeous luster. You should also frequently gently wipe the leaves with clean water. Only by doing the above aspects well can you maintain the beautiful leaf color of Calathea makoyana.
Propagation methods of Calathea makoyana
Calathea makoyana can be propagated by division, cuttings, tissue culture and other methods. Among them, conventional propagation often uses division. Division propagation can be carried out in both spring and autumn, but it is better in spring combined with repotting. Each divided daughter plant must retain 5 leaves. After cutting apart, immediately place the pot in a cool place, and after one week move it to a place with better light. At the initial stage, watering should be controlled, and only after new roots emerge should it be watered fully. When propagating Calathea makoyana by rhizome cuttings, cut the rhizome from the stem nodes with a sharp knife, keeping 1-2 nodes per section. After cutting apart, immediately place the pot in a cool place, and new roots can form in 1-2 weeks.
Calathea makoyana is propagated by division. Generally it is done in late spring and early summer when the temperature is about 20°C, combined with repotting and soil changing. When the temperature is too low, division easily damages the roots, affecting survival or making growth weak. When dividing, take the mother plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and use a sharp knife to cut apart the densely growing plant along the direction of underground rhizome growth, so that each clump has 2-3 buds and strong roots; immediately after cutting apart, pot it and water thoroughly, place it in a cool place, and after one week gradually move it to a place with better light. At the initial stage, moisture should be controlled, and only after new roots emerge should it be watered fully.
Calathea makoyana is mainly propagated by division and tissue culture. Division propagation is best done in late spring and early summer. When dividing, each daughter plant should retain at least 5 leaves and a relatively large root system, otherwise it will affect survival and growth after survival. When raising seedlings in large quantities, tissue culture is better for propagation.
During cultivation, a certain degree of shading should be provided, and the temperature should be kept at about 12-29°C. In winter the temperature should preferably be maintained at 16-18°C. In spring and summer it grows vigorously and requires relatively high air humidity, so spraying can be done; it does not have very strict soil requirements, but it should be kept moderately moist. During the growing season, fertilize about once every 2 weeks, while in winter the soil can be slightly dry and cool, and the frequency of fertilization should be reduced; propagation mostly uses the root division method; do it in early summer, and cuttings can also be used; the main pests include mealybugs, red spiders, aphids, scale insects, etc.
Disease control of Calathea makoyana
Calathea makoyana has relatively few pests and diseases, but if ventilation is poor and the air is dry, scale insect damage can also occur, and it should be controlled by spraying with imidacloprid series pesticides.
Leaf spot disease spots are yellow-brown. At the early stage of the disease, small yellow granules form near the leaf margin or in the center of the leaf, and gradually expand and deepen in color, turning yellow-brown. There is a relatively obvious halo around the lesion. As the lesion expands, the leaf gradually dries, shrinks, and eventually falls off and dies. The pathogen is the conidia of the deuteromycete Drechslera. The causes of the disease are high temperature and high humidity, poor air circulation, plants placed too densely, many weeds and rotten leaves in the cultivation environment, excessive nitrogen fertilizer application, and leggy plants. Young and tender tissues are prone to the disease.
Control methods
Strengthen fertilizer and water management, appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, apply less nitrogen fertilizer, and promote substantial plant growth and enhance its own resistance. Promptly remove diseased and residual leaves and weeds to reduce sources of infection. Plants should not be placed too densely, and appropriate ventilation and light transmission should be provided to reduce environmental humidity, which can reduce disease occurrence. When the disease occurs, spray chemicals for protection.
The chemicals include
600 times to 800 times 50% carbendazim solution; or 600 times to 800 times 75% chlorothalonil solution; 500 times to 600 times 50% mancozeb solution, once every 7 to 10 days. Various chemicals should be used alternately, which can prevent the pathogen from developing resistance.
Calathea makoyana has relatively few pests and diseases, but if ventilation is poor and the air is dry, scale insect damage can also occur, and it should be controlled by spraying with 1500 times dimethoate.
Distribution area of Calathea makoyana
Calathea makoyana is native to Brazil, and plants of this genus are distributed in tropical America from South America to Central America.
Landscape uses of Calathea makoyana
Calathea makoyana has beautiful and moving leaves, grows densely, and also has shade tolerance, making it an ideal indoor greening plant. It can be enjoyed as a single plant or planted in rows as a groundcover to appreciate its group beauty, with attention paid to providing a good background to set it off. Use small and medium potted plants for appreciation, mainly to decorate and arrange studies, bedrooms, living rooms, etc.
The formaldehyde-removal efficacy value of Calathea makoyana is half that of spider plant, but it is still much higher than ordinary plants. In addition, it is also an expert at removing ammonia pollution from the air (within 10 sq m it can remove 0.86 mg of formaldehyde and 2.19 mg of ammonia). This plant is highly ornamental and can also purify the air.
The plant shape is neat, and the leaf surface is rich in wonderful and delicate markings and a unique metallic luster. The brown patches are like a peacock spreading its tail. Its colors are fresh, gorgeous and soft, so it is increasingly favored by people and has become a treasure among indoor foliage plants. It has relatively strong adaptability and can be cultivated for a relatively long time in a low-light indoor environment. It is often grown in small and medium pots and used to decorate and arrange places such as home studies, bedrooms, and living rooms.
Calathea makoyana has an elegant plant form and a free and graceful posture. Its leaf markings are gorgeous, colorful, strange and changeable, like colorful patterns carefully painted by a painter, and also like a lifelike peacock spreading its tail, with a unique charm. At first glance, it is often mistaken for an artificial flower. It is one of the most beautiful and charming species among the many varieties of the same family and genus, and is also one of the most representative indoor foliage flowers popular in the world today, and is very lovable! It has strong adaptability and can be placed in weak indoor light for a long time. It is often used as a small or medium potted plant, suitable for arranging living rooms, meeting rooms, studies and desks, and is also a precious leaf material for flower arrangements.
Calathea makoyana pictures
How to care for Calathea makoyana in winter
Stop fertilizing and increase light
In winter, the growth of Calathea makoyana slows down relatively, and its absorption capacity is weaker, so stop fertilizing during this period. In winter Calathea makoyana does not stop growing, it just grows more slowly. So during this period light should still be supplemented. Winter sunlight is weak, so it can be placed on a balcony with better light to fully receive light without shading. If the light is weak, or if it is kept in a dark environment for a long time, Calathea makoyana will gradually weaken, and the leaves will gradually lose their luster.
Control the temperature
Calathea makoyana likes a high-temperature and humid environment, and winter is no exception. The most suitable temperature for growth is 18-25°C. In winter, move Calathea makoyana indoors for care as much as possible. The indoor temperature must not be lower than 15°C, otherwise the leaf color becomes dark, the leaves curl, and the leaf tips turn yellow. If the cold damage is slight, promptly changing the environmental conditions will still allow new leaves to emerge the following spring. If the cold damage is severe, the leaves will die one after another, and even the whole plant may die.
If the indoor temperature difference between day and night is large in winter, you can cover the pot with plastic film or use a glass box to keep it warm and moist.
Clean the leaves in time
In winter sunlight is weak, and plant photosynthesis is also weak. The plant's own nutrient accumulation is insufficient, growth is poor, and the leaves turn yellow and curl. In addition to supplementing light, you should also frequently clean the leaves with clean water and wipe off the dust on the surface, preferably once a month, to maintain the leaf color.