What to do when the leaves of Zamioculcas zamiifolia turn yellow? Replenish water, provide shade, control temperature, increase humidity, and prevent and treat pests and diseases
Among the functions and benefits of Zamioculcas zamiifolia, the most well-known is undoubtedly its ornamental value. It is an indoor foliage plant and carries an auspicious meaning, so many people choose to grow one at home. However, no matter how ornamental a plant is, if its leaves turn yellow, it will also affect its overall beauty
Among the functions and benefits of Zamioculcas zamiifolia, the most well-known is undoubtedly its ornamental value. It is an indoor foliage plant and carries an auspicious meaning, so many people choose to grow one at home. However, no matter how ornamental a plant is, if its leaves turn yellow, it will also affect its overall beauty. So what should be done when the leaves of Zamioculcas zamiifolia turn yellow? Below, the editor will walk everyone through it.
Causes of yellowing leaves in Zamioculcas zamiifolia (with solutions)
1. The air is too dry
Although Zamioculcas zamiifolia likes to grow in a slightly dry environment, after all it is not a cactus or similar plant, and its resistance to drought is not that strong, so it still needs to maintain a certain level of humidity appropriately. If the environment is too dry, it will have a great impact on the plant's growth, and this is also one of the causes of yellowing leaves in Zamioculcas zamiifolia.
Solution: If the problem is caused by a dry environment, we need to increase the environmental humidity, but we should not make the environment too humid either. Appropriately spraying a suitable amount of water on the leaves of Zamioculcas zamiifolia is enough, and we can also spray a little water into the surrounding air to increase the environmental humidity.
2. Too little watering
In the process of growing Zamioculcas zamiifolia, especially after it enters the growth period, its demand for water is very high. If we always forget to water it and cause the plant to lack water, it will lead to yellowing leaves in Zamioculcas zamiifolia.
Solution: If the problem is caused by too little watering, we should not immediately pour in a lot of water. We should proceed step by step. If too much is watered at once, it is very easy for the plant to develop root rot. Generally, when the weather is relatively dry, watering once every 3-5 days is enough.
3. Too much light
Zamioculcas zamiifolia is a light-loving plant. If the light in spring and autumn is relatively suitable, we can keep it outdoors to receive light all day. However, it is rather afraid of strong light, so after summer arrives, shading is still needed. Otherwise, if the light is too strong, it is very easy to scorch the plant and cause the phenomenon of yellowing leaves in Zamioculcas zamiifolia.
Solution: If the problem is caused by too much light, we should promptly move it to a semi-shaded place indoors for cultivation. After growing it this way for a period, the plant's leaves will gradually turn green again.
4. Temperature too low
In the process of growing Zamioculcas zamiifolia, the environmental temperature is also a point that needs attention. Only by letting it grow in a suitable environment can it grow better. If the temperature is too low, it will also cause yellowing leaves in Zamioculcas zamiifolia.
Solution: Winter is the coldest season of the year, and this season is also relatively hard for Zamioculcas zamiifolia. At this time, we should grow it indoors as much as possible, and if necessary, turn on the heating to regulate the indoor temperature. The temperature should preferably not be lower than 15°C.
5. Pest and disease infestation
During the growth of Zamioculcas zamiifolia, if we do not care for it properly, some adverse phenomena such as pests and diseases can easily appear. Such problems are extremely harmful to the plant, not only affecting its ornamental value, but in severe cases also causing the leaves of Zamioculcas zamiifolia to turn yellow and dry up.
Solution: When problems such as pests and diseases appear, we must deal with them promptly. If the time is dragged out, the damage to the plant will be great, and handling it will also be more troublesome. For specific prevention and control methods, everyone can refer to the article on pest and disease control for Zamioculcas zamiifolia. The editor will not repeat them here.
Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures
Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures, part oneRubber Tree[Aliases] Large-leaf green, red Burma tree, red-mouthed rubber tree, Indian banyan
[Family and genus] Moraceae, Ficus
[Place of origin] China
[Morphological characteristics] Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 m. Stem hairless, with milky sap. Leaves thick, leathery, with long petioles; leaves oblong or elliptical
[Cultivation substrate] A sandy loam rich in humus should be selected
[Watering] Just keep the soil in a slightly dry or slightly moist state regularly. Summer is the stage when the rubber tree needs the most water, so it can be watered more. Winter is the period when the rubber tree needs the least water, so water should be supplied sparingly
[Fertilizing] During the vigorous growth season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. should be applied as topdressing
[Light] The rubber tree likes strong direct sunlight and is also tolerant of shady environments. However, during cultivation, it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight every day. If conditions permit, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full sun
[Ventilation] Just maintain appropriate ventilation in the environment
[Temperature] The rubber tree likes high-temperature environments, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The environmental temperature should be maintained between 20-30 degrees. When the environmental temperature is below 10 degrees, the rubber tree is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees
[Disease control] The rubber tree is prone to anthracnose, whose pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or oval gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins, and in severe cases the lesions merge into one patch and spread to the entire leaf. Control methods are to avoid mechanical damage to the plant and reduce opportunities for pathogens to infect the plant; promptly remove diseased leaves to prevent spread; prune reasonably so that the tree maintains a natural open-center form and achieves good light penetration and ventilation.Asparagus Fern
Asparagus fern is also known as cloud-leaf bamboo and mountain grass, in the Liliaceae family and Asparagus genus.
Origin and habits: Asparagus fern is native to South Africa. It likes warmth, humidity, and semi-shade, and is not tolerant of drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus and with good drainage.
Morphological characteristics: Asparagus fern is a perennial herbaceous plant with smooth, soft, slender stems in a climbing form. The leaves are fine, spread horizontally, and small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves are reduced to scales or spines. Flowers are small, bisexual, and white. Berries are spherical and purple-black. The flowering period is mostly in February-March or June-July, and some bloom twice.
Propagation techniques: Asparagus fern is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Sowing is carried out in March-April, and seeds are soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow in spots in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, maintain a temperature of 20-25°C and keep the potting soil moist, and germination can occur in 20-30 days. When seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted in a greenhouse or potted. Large plants 4-5 years old can be propagated by division in spring.
Management techniques: Asparagus fern is a shade plant and should not be placed in a place with too strong light, otherwise it easily causes yellowing and drying of branches and leaves. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the potting soil alternating between moist and dry. Generally, watering just enough to moisten the surface soil is fine. In dry seasons, more clean water should be sprayed on the leaf surface. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer; apply once every 10-15 days a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen and potassium, or diluted leftover milk. Asparagus fern grows quickly, so weak, overly dense, old branches, and dead stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which is beneficial for ventilation and maintaining a low posture. Asparagus fern can also be planted in bamboo tubes, whose water permeability and water retention are both good, so there is no need to drill holes in the bottom of the pot.
Ornamental value: Asparagus fern is mainly grown in pots for foliage, fresh and elegant, and when placed in a study it shows even more of a scholarly atmosphere. The roots, stems, and leaves of asparagus fern can all be used as medicine and can be collected throughout the year. Its branches and leaves are slender, tall and graceful, with a balanced mix of green, and a free and easy posture, making it a good companion material for cut flowers, bouquets, and flower baskets.Areca Palm
Family and genus: Arecaceae, Dypsis, evergreen shrub.
Origin and habits: Native to Madagascar Island in Africa, and mostly potted in various parts of China. Areca palm likes warm and humid environments, likes light, and is also relatively shade-tolerant. It grows slowly in height but develops crown width relatively quickly, and self-prunes well. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam and avoids alkaline soil.
Morphological characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. Stems branch from the ground and have ring patterns; leaves spread in an arch shape and can reach 2 m long, petioles smooth and yellow, pinnae lanceolate, 60 cm long, soft at the tip, with 3 raised main veins on the underside; flowers small, in strings, golden yellow, flowering period March-April.
Propagation techniques: Areca palm can be propagated by sowing or division. Generally, potted plants mostly use division propagation. Division propagation can be done in all four seasons, but autumn is best. Select well-developed shoots from a robust mother plant, cut them away from the mother plant at the roots, and transplant them into a new pot to reestablish. Newly established plants, because their root systems have not yet developed well, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately, spray water on the leaves several times a day, and keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at around 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.
Management techniques: Indoor potted areca palm should use slightly acidic soil, and in the north, sandy loam with high humus content should be selected. Watering should follow the principle of “dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly” according to the season. In dry and hot seasons, water appropriately more, and in low-temperature rainy periods, control watering. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, care should be taken to regularly use black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons. In summer, appropriately apply additional nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer, and in winter, organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue can be applied. Rotate the flower pot regularly, often prune dead leaves at the lower and inner parts, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, the indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C. If it is below 5 degrees for a long time, it will suffer cold damage.
Ornamental value: The areca palm plant is tall, with drooping green leaves and a free and easy posture, evergreen throughout the year. When potted and placed in conference venues, halls, and rooms, it appears especially majestic and reflects a tropical scenery. This species is a good material for park and courtyard landscaping in South China. In places such as Hong Kong, China and Macao, China, because its leaves grow radially in all directions, it is regarded as a symbol of a career “flourishing in all directions.” It is highly favored.Alocasia (Drip Guanyin)
Drip Guanyin is a commercial name. When the soil water content is high, water drips downward from the leaf tips or leaf edges, so many places call it Drip Guanyin. This plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant in the Araceae family, Alocasia genus - Alocasia macrorrhizos, native to the subtropics. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments and is not cold-tolerant. In areas north of the Yangtze River Basin in China, it is grown in pots and moved indoors before winter. Alocasia has low soil requirements, but grows best in well-drained sandy loam or humus loam containing organic matter. Generally, the potting soil is mostly a mixed soil of leaf mold, peat soil, and coarse sand in a 2:2:1 ratio. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist, and apply 1-2 times per month a dilute N, P, K liquid fertilizer mainly based on N. In summer, place it in a semi-shaded, ventilated place, and frequently spray water around it and on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature, and keep the leaves clean. In winter, stop fertilizing and control the frequency of watering. Alocasia grows very quickly, so during its growth process, fertilizer and water must be applied in appropriate amounts to avoid causing the lower part of the stem to become bare and hollow, which would affect its ornamental value.Malabar Chestnut (Money Tree)
[Aliases] Money tree, Chinese-American kapok, chestnut tree, American peanut
[Family and genus] Malvaceae, Pachira
[Place of origin] Central America, from Mexico to Costa Rica
[Soil] Well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is best
[Light] The money tree has low light requirements and can adapt well indoors whether in strong or weak light. However, full sun can make leaf nodes shorter and the plant shape compact and full. Insufficient light slows the growth of the cultivated tree body. Do not suddenly move the plant from a shady place to strong light, otherwise it will scorch the leaves and cause burnt edges, affecting appearance
[Temperature] The money tree likes a warm and humid climate. Generally, 15-30 degrees is most suitable during the growth stage. In winter, it should be brought indoors to overwinter, and the room temperature should preferably not be lower than 5 degrees
[Watering] The money tree should generally be kept regularly moist. Remember that it should not be too wet, to avoid root rot. In summer, a money tree placed indoors should be watered once every 3-5 days; in spring and autumn, once every 5-8 days; in winter, watering should be restrained, and keeping the potting soil slightly moist is enough
[Fertilizing] Usually apply organic liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 months. A multi-element compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can also be applied to promote thickening of the stem base and improve ornamental value. The high-temperature and high-humidity season in summer is very favorable for the growth of the money tree, so fertilizer and water management should be strengthened at this stage
[Economic value] The money tree has a graceful plant shape, bright green leaf color, and a spindle-shaped tree form. It can be braided into many styles and can also be made into uniquely styled bonsai of various postures. Because its seeds contain oil, it was once widely promoted in tropical regions as a woody oil plantParlor Palm
[Aliases] Dwarf palm, dwarf coconut, parlor palm cycad, parlor palm
[Family and genus] Ceroxyloideae, Chamaedorea
[Place of origin] Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature, high humidity, and semi-shaded environments, is not tolerant of strong light, and has weak cold tolerance
[Soil] Requires well-drained, fertile, moist soil. Repot once every 2 years in spring. During repotting, because the roots are very fine, too much root damage should be avoided, as it will affect its recovery and growth
[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees, it enters dormancy at 13 degrees, and the overwintering temperature is 10 degrees. It is afraid of direct sunlight and is not tolerant of drought. Under the scorching sun, its leaf color will fade or turn yellow, and in severe cases it will cause sunburn, producing scorched leaves and black spots, losing ornamental value
[Fertilizing and watering] This species has a growth period from March to September, and should be watered promptly to keep the potting soil moist, but watering should follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In summer and autumn, when the air is dry and temperatures are high, it is also necessary to frequently spray water on the leaf surface to increase air humidity. During the dormant period, water less and keep the pot surface slightly dry. During the growing season, fertilize 1-2 times per month, and stop fertilizing at the end of September
[Economic value] This species has a small and exquisite plant shape, elegant and graceful form, emerald green and glossy leaves, strong shade tolerance, and is full of tropical charmMajesty Palm
[Family and genus] Ceroxyloideae, Ravenea
[Place of origin] Eastern Madagascar
[Growth habits] Grows in swamps and along riverbanks in areas with sufficient rain and sunlight. Likes environments with sufficient light and sufficient water, and is also relatively cold-tolerant and shade-tolerant
[Soil] It has low soil requirements, but loose, fertile, and well-drained soil is more favorable for its growth
[Temperature] It grows quickly when sunlight and water are sufficient, and the suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees. When potted, it can be brought indoors to overwinter in cold regions
[Fertilizing] Likes magnesium fertilizer. Topdressing once a month can keep the leaf color emerald green. When magnesium is deficient, the leaf color turns yellow
[Economic value] This species has a thick trunk, a graceful and light plant shape, and is beautifully green, with pinnate compound leaves resembling feathers. At the same time, because of its wide adaptability and good growth, it is an increasingly popular landscaping tree species. When potted for indoor display, it has a strong tropical moodDwarf Umbrella Tree
[Aliases] Duck-foot wood, hand tree
[Family and genus] Araliaceae, Schefflera
[Place of origin] New Hebrides Islands in the South Pacific
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity
[Soil] The cultivation soil is best as well-drained loam or sandy loam
[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is about 20-28 degrees. The temperature should generally not be lower than 12 degrees, nor higher than 30 degrees. If the winter temperature is too low, it will shed leaves and lose ornamental value. When the temperature drops to 5 degrees, insulation is needed. In summer, avoid strong direct sunlight all day. It should be placed in a bright indoor place, but not exposed to direct sunlight. If placed in a dark place, the yellow-white patches of variegated varieties will gradually disappear. After direct exposure to strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off. When planting on a balcony, shade is needed in spring and summer, and light is needed in autumn and winter
[Watering and fertilizing] In spring and autumn, the potting soil should alternate between dry and wet; in summer, mainly wet; in winter, mainly dry. It is not very selective about water quality. The growing period is mainly from April to October, and fertilize once every half month
[Economic value] The leaves of the dwarf umbrella tree are oily green, in palmate compound leaves, leathery and glossy; variegated varieties, alternating yellow and green, are an ideal indoor ornamental plant. The dwarf umbrella tree is tolerant of pruning and has strong sprouting ability. The plant posture is elegant, and especially when used to beautify rooms it can compare with high-grade flower varieties. The flowers of the dwarf umbrella tree are a winter nectar source, and the root bark and leaves can also be used medicinally clustering fishtail palm
[Aliases] Clustering fishtail palm, wine coconut
[Family and genus] Arecaceae, Caryota
[Place of origin] Guangdong, Guangxi, and Hainan in China, Indochina Peninsula, India
[Growth habits] A semi-heliophilous tree species, it grows poorly under strong sunlight. It likes warm, highly humid, and well-ventilated environments, and has relatively strong cold tolerance, making it one of the more cold-tolerant palm plants
[Soil] It has relatively strong growth vigor and a well-developed root system, and has low requirements for soil conditions. When potted, an equal mix of garden soil and humus soil can be used as the substrate. Generally, repot once every 1-2 years. During repotting, remove part of the old soil, cut off some old roots, replant with new soil, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer
[Temperature] The suitable growth temperature is 18-30 degrees, the overwintering temperature is 3 degrees, and it can endure short periods of low temperature of -1 to -2 degrees. If it is below this temperature for a long time, it will suffer cold damage
[Light] It is a light-loving plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the growing period. It has relatively strong adaptability to light and is also suitable for cultivation and appreciation in brighter indoor places
[Watering] The roots are semi-succulent and have relatively strong drought resistance. During the growing period from March to October, it can be watered once a day. In other seasons, watering should maintain a moderate degree of dryness and wetness, and absolutely avoid water accumulation in the potting soil, so as to prevent root rot. During dormancy, it is only necessary to keep the potting soil moist. Under dry climate conditions, spray water on the leaf surface to ensure the leaves remain deep green and glossy
[Fertilizing] During the growing period, generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote vigorous plant growth
[Economic value] This species grows in clusters and has very vigorous growth. The plant shape is graceful and varied, with luxuriant branches and leaves. The tree form is full and rich in layering, the leaf shape is peculiar, and the leaf color is deep green, making it an excellent indoor greening and decorative plant. It is often planted in medium and large pots and placed in lobbies, entrance halls, meeting rooms, and other places, appearing extraordinarily impressive. The pith of the stem contains starch, which can be made into “sago” for consumption. The liquid from the inflorescence can be used to make sugar and brew winePothos
Pothos is also called stone citrus. Araceae, large evergreen climbing vine. Native to the Solomon Islands, in tropical regions it often climbs on rocks and tree trunks in fish forests and can grow into huge vines. The green leaves have yellow patches.
Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and beautiful, just like green relief sculptures. The bright-colored green decoration is full of vitality and adds a harmonious and pleasant charm to the room.
It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying rooms. When placed indoors, it can make the room full of vitality.
Temperature: Likes warm environments; the minimum overwintering temperature is 10-13°C; variegated pothos 16°C.
Light: Likes semi-shaded environments; can grow well in relatively bright rooms; excellent variegated varieties easily die under weak light conditions.
Water: In spring, summer, and autumn, there should be sufficient water in the potting soil. Water when the surface 1-2 cm of the potting soil becomes dry; in winter when the temperature is low, watering should be reduced.
Air humidity: Likes high temperature and high humidity; water should be sprayed on the plant regularly.
Repotting: Repot in spring as needed.
Propagation: In spring and summer, cuttings from branches root easily; for making totem poles, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, so that they take shape relatively quickly.Dracaena
The scientific name of Dracaena is Dracaena fragrans, also known as Brazilian iron tree, Brazilian millennium tree, and golden-edged fragrant dragon blood tree. It is a plant in the Liliaceae family and Dracaena genus.
Origin and habits: Dracaena is native to tropical regions. It likes environments with sufficient light, high temperature, and high humidity, and is also tolerant of shade and dryness. It also grows well in bright scattered light and in the relatively dry environment of northern rooms.
Morphological characteristics: Dracaena is an evergreen tree with a neat plant shape and upright stem. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40-90 cm long and 6-10 cm wide, slightly blunt at the tip, curved into a bow shape, with bright yellow or milky white stripes; leaf margins are bright green, with wavy undulations and glossy. Flowers are small, yellow-green, and fragrant.
Propagation techniques: Dracaena is propagated by cuttings. Use branches pruned from stems with poorer plant shape as cutting material, cut into 5-10 cm sections, and insert them upright or flat on a cutting bed with coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be grown in water to promote rooting. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water. The cut surface should be smooth. The upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end should be immersed 2-3 cm in water, the temperature should be above 25°C, and the water and container should be kept clean. Tips with leaves root relatively quickly, and can root and be potted in 3-4 weeks; stem sections root relatively slowly, and sometimes it takes 2-3 months to grow new roots and new shoots.
Management techniques: As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, Dracaena can grow in all four seasons. In summer when temperatures are high, appropriate shading is needed, and the winter room temperature should not be lower than 5°C. But it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and leaf margins. When placing Dracaena indoors, it should be in a place with sufficient light. If the light is too weak, the stripes on the leaves will turn green, and the basal leaves will yellow, losing ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean, water 1-2 times a week, and do not use too much water, to prevent the trunk from rotting. In summer when temperatures are high, spraying can be used to increase air humidity, and water can be sprayed on the leaves to keep them moist.
During the growing period, Dracaena should be appropriately given foliar topdressing, spraying leaves with 100-fold diluted nutrients once every half month. After several years of cultivation, when the plant is too tall or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off and the plant shape is poor, pruning should be carried out. Repot or change the soil every year in early spring. If the environment is unsuitable for potted Dracaena, there may be damage from red spiders, thrips, scale insects, and other pests. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering, and excessive fertilizing can all cause scorched leaf tips.
Ornamental value: Dracaena is a rather popular large indoor potted flower and tree, especially when placed in a relatively spacious living room, study, or sitting room, where it shows elegant and simple style and carries a southern-country mood. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful and neat plant shape.Peacock Plant
Also known as mosaic calathea, it is a foliage plant in the Marantaceae family and Calathea genus. The base has tubers, the plant height is 20-30 cm, leaves are oblong-elliptical, the leaf surface is green-white, and there are relatively original brown markings along the edges of the midrib. The leaves are evergreen all year round and have a unique metallic luster; the brown patches are like a peacock with its tail spread, and the colors are fresh, gorgeous, and soft. It is a common indoor foliage plant. Many plants in this genus have relatively high ornamental value and are important plants used to decorate indoor environments around the world. Common varieties include:
(1) Mosaic calathea. Also known as mosaic turmeric, leaves are oblong-elliptical, large and thin, the leaf surface is green like velvet, and there are zebra-striped feather-like stripes on both sides of the leaf ribs, and the leaf underside is purplish-red.
(2) Red-backed turmeric. Leaves are broadly elliptical, the surface is green, the markings are not obvious, and the leaf underside is purplish-red.
(3) Mosaic turmeric. Also called arrow-feather striped calathea, the leaf surface is green, with pale yellow feather-like stripes on both sides of the midrib, the leaf underside is deep purple, and the flowers are pale yellow.
(4) White-spotted calathea. Plant height 50-60 cm, stems weak, leaves large and thin, ovate-lanceolate, with irregular white patches among the green leaves.
(5) Calathea majestica. Also known as red-feather calathea, its leaves are long and oval, light green on the surface, with parallel double stripes of white or peach-red on both sides of the midrib, making it very beautiful.
Calathea makoyana is native to the Americas. It likes semi-shade and a hot, humid environment, and is not cold-tolerant. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C; above 35°C or below 7°C is bad for its growth. The overwintering temperature must not be too low, otherwise the leaves tend to curl. It requires loose soil rich in humus with good drainage.
Calathea plants are mainly propagated by division, mostly carried out in spring from April to May when repotting. Division should not be done too early, otherwise the low temperature easily damages the roots and affects survival and growth. When dividing, the plant can be separated into 2-3 clumps as one plant; too few will affect growth. After planting, water thoroughly once and place it in a semi-shaded spot for care. Before new roots emerge, control watering and do not let the soil get too wet.
The potting soil can be mixed with 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, with a small amount of soybean cake added as base fertilizer. When potting, first place a 3 cm thick layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.
From May to September, shade the plant during growth or place it in semi-shade, maintaining a light transmission rate of 40%-60%, and avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched or the edges become scorched and curled. If kept indoors for a long time, low temperature and insufficient light will also weaken its growth and cause it to lose the unique luster on the leaf surface. In winter it can receive direct sunlight through glass.
Calathea has high humidity requirements. During routine care, the flowerpot can be placed on an overturned flowerpot, and water should be sprayed frequently on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the surroundings and ground moist, so as to increase environmental humidity. Water before the potting soil dries out completely, otherwise the leaves easily curl and scorch at the edges due to dryness. During the peak growth season, apply a dilute cake fertilizer or slow-release chemical fertilizer once a week, and do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer. In summer during high temperatures, apply a thin fertilizer once every half month, and stop fertilizing when the temperature is below 15°C. During care, maintain good ventilation conditions, otherwise mealybugs easily occur, affecting stem and leaf growth and reducing ornamental value.
Calathea makoyana is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Its leaf surface has feather-like markings alternating between dark green and white or pale yellow, and it has a unique metallic luster, resembling a peacock's tail feathers, hence the name. Calathea makoyana is small and beautiful in form, with fresh and gorgeous leaf colors, thus becoming an outstanding among foliage plants. For potting, choose a culture soil mixed evenly with leaf mold, garden soil, and a small amount of river sand. During the growth period, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks. When fertilizing, take care not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer; generally the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is 2:1:1, which can make the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Soilless cultivation can also be used, and it is enough to apply nutrient solution 1-2 times a month during the growth period. Water to the extent of keeping the potting soil moist. Calathea makoyana likes humid air, so attention should be paid to methods such as spraying and sprinkling water to increase air humidity, especially in summer, where more attention should be paid to increasing humidity and lowering temperature to benefit growth. For home cultivation, it can be placed in a bright indoor spot, and strong direct light must be avoided, otherwise it easily causes scorched leaf edges. If placed in a dim place for a long time, the leaves will lose their unique luster. In winter, place it in a well-lit spot, and also pay attention to cold protection. Room temperature should be kept above 13°C, stop fertilizing, and control watering. In northern winters, indoor air is dry, so besides spraying and washing the leaf surface with cool boiled water once every 3-5 days, it is best to cover it with a plastic film cover at night to keep it warm and moist. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to increase indoor humidity. To maintain its gorgeous leaf color, the leaves also need to be gently wiped and washed with clean water frequently. Calathea makoyana is mostly propagated by division. When dividing, it is best to plant 3-5 plants per pot.
Image:Image:Spathiphyllum (Spathiphyllum kochii)
Also known as white sail, spathe leaf taro, white flag, and silver bract taro. Araceae, Spathiphyllum genus. Native to tropical regions of the Americas.
Morphological characteristics: Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm. Leaves basal, leathery, long oval or broadly lanceolate, with long pointed tips, dark green. Leaves 20-30 cm long, about 10 cm wide, petioles about 30 cm long, veins obvious. Because the flower bract curls into a spoon shape and is white as a snow lotus, shaped like clasped palms, it is called white palm; because its pure white bracts resemble a white boat sailing on green water, it has the blessing meaning of smooth sailing in social interactions, to encourage life progress and career success.
Spathiphyllum is very similar to white Anthurium, also having white bracts, but the leaves and the spathe of the flower are somewhat different. The spathe of Spathiphyllum does not turn outward but curls inward, and the oval bract is not as bright and leathery as that of white Anthurium.
Cultivated hybrids of the same genus include: 'Perfume' white palm: its flowers have a faint fragrance. 'Green Giant' white palm: also known as Green Giant, the plant is taller than Spathiphyllum, the leaves are larger than those of Spathiphyllum, and the parallel feather-like lateral veins are more obvious, thus appearing more vigorous, and it is a trendy indoor potted plant.
Habits: Likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments, and absolutely avoids direct sunlight; afraid of cold. Avoids heavy clay soil, and prefers sandy loam rich in humus.
Cultivation management: Spathiphyllum is relatively shade-tolerant, and about 60% scattered light is enough to meet its growth needs, so it can be grown year-round indoors in bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded; avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases sunscald will occur. In northern winter greenhouse cultivation, no shading or little shading is needed. If the light is too dim for a long time, it is not easy to bloom. Spathiphyllum is a high-temperature-loving species and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. In winter, the minimum nighttime temperature should be 14-16°C, and daytime should be about 25°C. Long-term low temperature easily causes leaf drop or scorched yellow conditions.
During the growth period, the potting soil should often be kept moist, but avoid overwatering and long-term wetness of the potting soil, otherwise it easily causes root rot and plant yellowing and withering. In summer and dry seasons, frequently spray water on the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle sprayer, and also sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to keep the air moist, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow, and fall off. In winter, control watering, and it is appropriate for the potting soil to be slightly moist.
During the peak growth season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 1-2 weeks, which is beneficial both for robust plant growth and for continuous flowering. In northern winters with low temperatures, stop fertilizing.
For potting soil, use leaf mold or peat soil mixed evenly with about 1/4 river sand or perlite, plus a small amount of bone meal or cake residue as base fertilizer. The potting soil should be loose and have good drainage and air permeability. Generally, repot once each year in early spring before a large number of new buds sprout. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil, and plant in a pot one size larger to benefit root development and vigorous growth.
Propagation: Can be propagated by division and sowing, and can also be mass-propagated by tissue culture.
1. Division propagation: Because Spathiphyllum easily produces suckers, this method is mostly used for propagation. Vigorously growing plants can be divided about once every 2 years. Before new buds emerge in early spring, turn the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut the rhizome at the base of the clump. Each small clump should preferably have more than 3 stems and buds, and as many roots as possible should be kept, so that new plants can quickly produce new leaves and have a full plant shape.
2. Seed propagation: This method is not difficult either. Seeds can be obtained by artificial pollination in a greenhouse. After the seeds mature, sow them immediately after harvest. The sowing temperature should be about 25°C; if the temperature is low, the seeds easily rot.
Pests and diseases: Excessive fertilizer and freezing injury easily cause yellow leaf tips. At this time, the soil should be changed immediately.Image:Dieffenbachia 'Marianne'
Dieffenbachia is also called spotted dumb cane and silver-spotted dumb cane. Native to tropical America, plant height 30-90 cm, flowers upright, internodes short, leaves long oval, slightly wavy at the margins, leaf surface spread with various milky white or milky yellow markings or spots, shade-tolerant, leaf color green and graceful. Main cultivated varieties include Marianne, KIKI, Golden Sun, White Jade, Duozi Zebra, Golden Treasure, and Paradise Dumb Cane.
The optimum growth temperature for Dieffenbachia is 25-30°C, with daytime temperature at 30°C and nighttime temperature at 25°C. The tolerable growth range is 18-30°C from February to September, and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the leaves are easily damaged by cold.
Dieffenbachia likes 80% environmental humidity. When the soil dries to 2 cm on the surface, it should be watered. During the growth period, water sufficiently and spray water on the leaf surface. If water is not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses luster. Soil moisture is best kept alternating between dry and wet; water more in summer and control watering in winter.
Dieffenbachia is shade-tolerant and afraid of sun. If light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, and the leaf margins and leaf tips are easily scorched, or even large areas are burned. If light is too weak, the yellow-white patches turn green. It grows best under bright scattered light, and the leaf color is brighter and more beautiful.
The soil should preferably be fertile, loose, and well-drained loam. Potting soil should be a mixed soil of leaf mold and coarse sand.
[Propagation methods] Commonly propagated by cuttings, sowing, and tissue culture.
Cutting propagation: Cutting is best done during the high-temperature period from July to August. Cut 7-10 cm from the top of the stem, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, insert into a sand bed, or wrap the cut end with sphagnum moss, maintain relatively high air humidity, and keep room temperature at 24-30°C. Roots form 15-25 days after cutting. After new buds sprout on the stem segment, transplant and pot.
Seed propagation: Dieffenbachia must be artificially pollinated before it sets fruit. Seeds should be sown immediately after maturity, and the seeds need to be cleaned to prevent mildew and rot. Before sowing, the potting soil should be sterilized. After sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil and keep room temperature at 24-29°C. Seeds germinate 7-14 days after sowing, and transplant when seedlings are 3 cm tall.
Tissue culture propagation: At present, lateral buds and terminal buds have been used as explants. After routine disinfection, they are inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 3 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 2 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid. After 45 days, when adventitious buds grow to 2 cm, they are transferred to 1/2 MS medium supplemented with 2 mg/L indoleacetic acid. Roots can form in about 20-25 days, forming complete small plantlets.
[Cultivation management] Dieffenbachia pot cultivation commonly uses 15-20 cm pots. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer. When room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing. If the winter temperature is below 10°C and watering is excessive, it will cause leaf drop and stem tip rot. If the plant only drops leaves and the stem does not rot, then after the temperature rises, it can still continue to sprout and unfold leaves. After potted plants grow for 1-2 years, there are more suckers at the base, and division propagation can be carried out in combination with repotting. If the plant grows relatively tall, the aboveground part can be cut off leaving 2-3 nodes at the base; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a better plant shape.
[Pest and disease control] The main damage is from bacterial leaf spot, brown spot, and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, they can be prevented and controlled by spraying with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution.
[Post-production handling] Dieffenbachia has large leaves with beautiful colored markings, suitable for potted viewing and embellishing living rooms and studies, very comfortable and elegant. Used to place in public places with lower light, Dieffenbachia still grows normally, with green leaves and lush branches and leaves, full of vitality, especially suitable for configuration in modern buildings. Dieffenbachia can tolerate 14 days in darkness, and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.
Image:Phoenix roebelenii
Phoenix roebelenii, also known as soft-leaf date palm, is a foliage plant of the palm family, Phoenix genus.
Phoenix roebelenii is an evergreen shrub with a short, thick stem, usually solitary, sometimes clustered, plant height 1-3 m. Leaves are pinnate, upright when young, slightly curved and drooping after growing a little; there are long spines on both sides of the petiole base, with triangular protrusions, which is one of its characteristics; leaflets lanceolate, about 20-30 cm long and about 1 cm wide, relatively soft, and drooping in an arc. Spadix axillary, 20-50 cm long, dioecious. Fruit about 1.5 cm long, initially pale green, date-red when mature.
Phoenix roebelenii is native to the Indochina region, and is widely cultivated in various provinces and regions of southern China. There are about 17 species in the same genus, mainly produced in tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa. It likes the hot and humid tropical climate, likes light and is also shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, barren-tolerant, and likes well-drained, fertile sandy loam. It has relatively strong cold tolerance and can overwinter safely at around 0°C in winter.
Phoenix roebelenii is mostly propagated by sowing. After flowering, pollination easily leads to fruit set. The fruit matures from October to November. After harvest, sow immediately or sow the following spring. Sow the seeds in river sand and keep the substrate moist. At 20-30°C, seedlings can emerge in 2-3 months or longer. When the cotyledons of the seedlings reach 5-10 cm, apply dilute liquid fertilizer, then transplant into pots and strengthen water and fertilizer management.
For potting Phoenix roebelenii, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part river sand mixed as the substrate, and add a small amount of base fertilizer when planting. It has strong adaptability, and cultivation and care are simple. During the vigorous growth period from April to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month, keep the potting soil moist, and in dry air spray water on the plant once a day to increase environmental air humidity, which is beneficial to plant growth; in other seasons, fertilize less or not at all, and keep the potting soil alternately dry and wet. From June to September, when sunlight is strong, shade it (preferably 50% shading) to avoid yellowing leaves; in other seasons, give relatively sufficient light to help the plant grow robustly. Phoenix roebelenii is prone to mealybugs when the air is dry and ventilation is poor. If mealybugs are found, control them; generally, spray with 800 times omethoate; at the same time improve ventilation and air permeability.
Phoenix roebelenii has branches and leaves arching and drooping like an umbrella, with evenly distributed, green and glossy leaves. It is an excellent potted foliage plant. Using it to decorate indoors can fill the space with a tropical mood. Generally, small and medium pots are suitable for living rooms, studies, and other places, appearing elegant and generous; large potted plants are often used to decorate venues, halls, and other places, appearing solemn and majestic.
Image:Aspidistra
Scientific name: Aspidistra elatior
English name: Common Aspidistra
Aliases: spider-embracing egg, bamboo-leaf
Family: Liliaceae
Morphological characteristics:
Evergreen herb with rhizomes. Leaves elliptical to needle-lanceolate, dark green, margins slightly wavy. Flowers bell-shaped. Flowering period April. Capsule spherical. Likes shade and cannot tolerate strong light; likes warmth and is relatively cold-tolerant; likes moisture, and prefers well-drained, fertile sandy loam.Aglaonema 'Silver Queen'
Latin name: Aglaonema commulatum cv. Silvcr Queen
Aliases: Silver Queen dumb cane, Silver Queen Chinese evergreen, Silver Queen aglaonema
Botanical characteristics: > Perennial herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm, stem upright and unbranched, internodes obvious. Leaves alternate, petioles long, base enlarged into a sheath-like shape, leaves narrow and long, light green, leaf surface with gray-green stripes, relatively large area.
Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' is famous for its unique air purification ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purification ability! Therefore, it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.
This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a relatively long time.
Can remove: formaldehyde, nicotine
“Silver Queen can absorb the radiation from printers.”Snake plant
Snake plant, also known as tiger skin plant and thousand-year plant, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Sansevieria genus.
The underground part of the snake plant has tough rhizomes, and it has no stem. Leaves clustered, fleshy linear-lanceolate, hard leathery, upright, base slightly grooved; dark green, with horizontal bands alternating light green and dark green on both sides, slightly covered with white powder. Raceme, flowers white to pale green, with a sweet, elegant fragrance; flowering period spring and summer. Common cultivated varieties include:
Golden-edged snake plant: shape similar to snake plant, but the leaf margins are bordered with broad golden-yellow bands.
Short-spike snake plant: a dwarf variety, plant height about 10-20 cm, a mutant of the golden-edged snake plant, with short and wide leaves that grow in a swirling, overlapping manner.
Onion-leaf snake plant: also called cylindrical-leaf snake plant. Leaves are cylindrical, roughly the same thickness from top to bottom throughout the leaf, slightly tapered at the tip, leaf surface with longitudinal shallow groove-like indentations, each leaf grows independently.
Snake plant is native to arid Africa and southern Asia, and is cultivated throughout China. It has strong adaptability, likes warmth and humidity, is drought-tolerant, and likes light while also tolerating shade. It is not strict about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is better. Its optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Snake plant can be propagated by division and cuttings. After the temperature rises each spring, carry out division together with repotting, that is, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old culture soil, expose the rhizome, and cut it along its direction into several plants, so that each plant contains at least 3-4 mature leaves, then pot them separately with new culture soil. The propagation material for cuttings is leaves (leaf cuttings), which can be done when the temperature is above 15°C. Cut mature leaves crosswise into 7-8 cm long segments as cuttings, let them dry slightly, then insert into river sand. When cutting, be careful not to insert them upside down; maintain a certain humidity, but not too wet, to avoid rotting. After about one month, adventitious buds and adventitious roots can grow from the cut end, forming new plants. Small seedlings propagated by leaf cuttings from golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edges and spots disappear, reducing ornamental value, so these varieties are not suitable for leaf cutting propagation and can only be propagated by division.
For potting snake plant, use equal parts leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the substrate. It grows well under sufficient light. Except in midsummer when direct sunlight must be avoided, it should receive more sunlight in other seasons; if placed in a too dim indoor spot for too long, the leaves will darken and lack vitality. In addition, if it has been placed indoors for a long time, it should not suddenly be moved directly into sunlight; first move it to a brighter place and let it have an adaptation process before exposing it to sunlight, so as to avoid burning the leaves. Watering should be moderate, following the principle of preferring dry over wet. Usually wipe dust from the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and bright. In spring, when new plants sprout at the root crown, water appropriately more and keep the potting soil moist; in summer during high temperatures, also keep the potting soil moist frequently; after late autumn, control the amount of watering and keep the potting soil relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. It does not require much fertilizer; during the growth season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.
The leaves of the snake plant are firm and upright, with tiger-tail-like horizontal band markings alternating gray-white and dark green on the leaf surface, with a resolute and unusual, curious and interesting posture; it has many varieties, with relatively large variations in plant shape and leaf color, exquisite and unique; it has strong adaptability to the environment and is a tenacious plant, widely cultivated and used, and is a common indoor potted foliage plant. Suitable for decorating studies, living rooms, offices, and other places, and can be enjoyed for a relatively long time.Lucky bamboo
Lucky bamboo, also known as Sander's dracaena, is a foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Dracaena genus. Lucky bamboo is an evergreen small tree, with no underground rhizome, and roots are yellow-brown. The markings and colors on the leaf surface vary by variety. Common cultivated varieties include: golden-edged lucky bamboo: leaf margins golden yellow, center green. It likes high-temperature and high-humidity environments, is not strict about light, likes light and can also tolerate shade. Suitable for well-drained sandy loam. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Lucky bamboo is propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are mostly carried out in combination with shaping and pruning. As lucky bamboo grows for many years and the plant grows taller, the leaves at the base of the stem often fall off and the plant shape deteriorates; during the growth season, the stem can be cut into 5-10 cm segments as cuttings, inserted into vermiculite or river sand, and generally roots and sprouts appear in 1-2 weeks.
For potting lucky bamboo, use equal parts leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand mixed for planting, or use coconut coir and leaf mold with a small amount of base fertilizer as culture soil. In management, the key is to control humidity and temperature well. During the growth season, keep the potting soil moist frequently and spray water on the leaf surface often to maintain relatively high environmental humidity; excessive dryness will cause dry leaf tips; in winter, the potting soil should not be too wet, but water should still be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently, and at the same time pay attention to cold protection to avoid leaves turning yellow, shrinking, or even falling off. During the vigorous growth period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer 2-3 times a month to keep the leaves green and glossy. It is not strict about light and is suitable for growing under bright scattered light; avoid direct sunlight; if exposed to strong sun or dryness, the leaf surface will become rough, scorched, and lack luster, reducing ornamental value.Anthurium
Anthurium scientific name: Anthurium andraeanum
Anthurium aliases: flamingo flower, flamingo lily, painter's palette, red flamingo taro.
Anthurium family and genus: Araceae, Anthurium genus.
Anthurium origin and distribution:
Anthurium is native to tropical regions of the Americas and likes a warm and humid climate environment. It likes warmth, humidity, and semi-shade environments, but is not shade-tolerant; it likes sunlight but avoids direct sunlight; it is not cold-tolerant; it likes fertilizer but avoids saline-alkali conditions. At present, greenhouses with light, temperature, and water regulation systems are used for cut flower cultivation. In frost-free hot areas of Yunnan, good cut flowers and potted flowers have also been cultivated using simple shade sheds. With the improvement of economic levels, Anthurium has good application prospects as a high-grade flower. Anthurium flowers are unique, and the spathe is bright and gorgeous, rich in color, highly variable, and has a long flowering period, blooming continuously throughout the four seasons. The vase life is very long, and the water culture period can reach 1 month; the single flowering period of potted plants can reach 4-6 months. The optimum growth temperature is 25-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 15°C. It requires loose, breathable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus with a pH value of 5.5-6.5.
Anthurium morphological characteristics:
It is a perennial herb of Araceae, plant height 30-70 cm, leaves emerging from a short stem, leathery, long heart-shaped, entire, petiole hard and slender, 30-40 cm long, about 10 cm wide. Flowers terminal, about 50 cm long, spathe heart-shaped, 10-20 cm long, 8-10 cm wide, surface wavy and wrinkled, spathe with bright waxy luster, spadix cylindrical, upright, about 6 cm long, yellow, at first glance looking like artificial fake flowers, flower posture peculiar and beautiful, cut flower life as long as more than 30 days, an advanced flower material for flower arrangement. There are many similar varieties, with flower colors including red, peach red, vermilion, white, red with green markings, green, orange, and other colors, with a long flowering period, capable of blooming throughout the year. Perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous flower. Plant height can reach 1 m, internodes short. Leaves emerging from the rhizome, with long petioles, solitary, oblong-cordate or ovate, deep bright green, glossy. Flower buds emerging from leaf axils, spathe upright and spreading, leathery, perfectly round-ovate, orange-red or scarlet. Its variant varieties include those with milky white spathes, those inlaid with white-green, multicolored, and those with delicate red edges, highly variable. Spadix sessile, cylindrical, upright, slightly leaning outward. Flowers bisexual, perianth with four lobes, stamens 4, ovary 2-loculed, each locule with 1-2 ovules. Small berries contain 2-4 seeds, pink, densely clustered on the spadix. It is one of the most precious cut flower varieties today, and because its flowers are bright and eye-catching, covered with wax, and have a long preservation period, it has become an important flower arrangement decoration for high-end occasions.
Anthurium ecological habits:
It likes an environment with high air humidity and unobstructed drainage, and likes shade and warmth. In an environment where daytime temperature is not higher than 28°C and nighttime is not lower than 20°C, it can bloom and fruit year-round. Above 35°C will cause sunscald, below 14°C will affect growth, and continuous low temperature below 0°C will freeze the plant to death. It requires air humidity of 80%, soil pH value of 5.5, and Ec value preferably 1.2. It requires loose, fertile soil, and soilless cultivation is best.
Anthurium propagation and cultivation
The optimum growth temperature for Anthurium is 20-30°C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, and the minimum temperature is 14°C; below 10°C there is a possibility of freezing damage at any time. The optimum relative air humidity is 70%-80%, and it should not be lower than 50%, because maintaining relatively high air humidity in the cultivation environment is the key to successful Anthurium cultivation. Therefore, water should be sprayed on the leaves many times throughout the year. Anthurium is not tolerant of strong light, and year-round cultivation should be in an appropriately shaded environment, that is, choose greenhouse cultivation with protective facilities. In spring, summer, and autumn, appropriate shading should be provided, especially in summer when 70% shading is needed. Direct sunlight will make leaf temperature higher than air temperature; too high leaf temperature will cause burns, scorched leaves, fading of flower buds, and slowed leaf growth.
1. Anthurium propagation: Usually by division; at present, tissue culture is mostly used for mass propagation, and seed propagation is used in breeding. For division, in spring the suckers at the rhizome of the adult mother plant can be separated and planted separately; tissue culture mostly uses young leaves as explants, inducing differentiation of clustered buds through callus, then inducing rooting to form seedlings. From inoculation to seedling transplanting takes about 4 months, and flowering occurs 2-3 years after planting.
2. Anthurium cultivation: Anthurium is mostly cultivated in greenhouses for cut flowers, and can also be potted for viewing. It requires a greenhouse with heating, ventilation and cooling, and shading conditions. Soilless cultivation is mostly carried out, and the cultivation substrate is preferably a mixture of 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 peat. Usually planting is from January to May, when seedlings have grown to 6-7 leaves and are about 30 cm tall. Make ridges 30 cm high, plant on the ridges, with plant and row spacing of 30×40 cm, use drip irrigation, and apply nutrient solution twice a week. During growth, pay attention to temperature, humidity, and light regulation. The optimum temperature is 27-28°C; in summer during high temperatures, spray water and ventilate to cool down; in winter keep nighttime temperature at 15°C. Adjust light to 20000-25000 lux, and provide shading when too strong. Strong light and high temperature in summer easily cause leaf burns. Too much watering or poor drainage easily causes root rot. The suitable time for harvesting cut flowers is when the yellow part of the spadix accounts for 1/4-1/3, cutting from the base of the peduncle. Insert into water immediately after harvesting. When transport is needed, fix as single stems and lay them flat in layers in boxes. Anthurium lasts long in water; when kept in water, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and cut off 1 cm from the base of the flower stalk to keep the cut fresh and facilitate water uptake. It can be stored for 3-4 weeks at 13°C and still remain fresh; below 7°C cold damage occurs. For potting, the potting soil can be peat or leaf mold plus decomposed horse manure plus an appropriate amount of perlite, or 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 river sand. Pot when there are 5-6 leaves; use small pots for small seedlings, and gradually transfer to larger pots as they grow, with more broken tiles placed at the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and air exhaust. Repot once every 1-2 years. Watering is best done by spraying on the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. During the growth period, apply dilute alum fertilizer water once a week.
Anthurium pest and disease control
The main pests of Anthurium are red spiders and mealybugs; the main diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot, which can be controlled by spraying omethoate and thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution respectively.
Anthurium is welcomed by people because of its unique flower shape, brilliant flower color, and year-round flowering, and it can be cultivated both as a cut flower and enjoyed as a potted flower. The spathe of Anthurium used for cut flowers is unusually bright red, waxy and shining, with a long vase life. When potted for viewing, in spring when it blooms, the green leaves paired with the bright red spathe are very beautiful. When there are flowers, enjoy the flowers; when there are no flowers, view the leaves. It is an excellent small indoor potted flower. It is often used for beautifying and arranging family rooms, living rooms, and meeting rooms. In the global tropical flower trade, Anthurium sales rank second only to orchids. Anthurium is mainly used as cut flowers. In recent years, due to the continuous breeding of new multi-flowered varieties.Philodendron 'Green Emerald'
Philodendron 'Green Emerald', also known as long heart-leaf philodendron and green emerald, is a perennial evergreen climbing foliage plant of the Araceae family, Philodendron genus.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' is a climbing species, with thick stems and aerial roots at the nodes. Leaves long heart-shaped, 25-35 cm long and 12-18 cm wide, with an abruptly pointed tip, base deeply heart-shaped, green, entire, glossy. Young shoots and leaf sheaths are both green. Excellent related varieties in the same genus include:
Philodendron 'Red Emerald': also known as red emerald, with leaves and stems dark red.
Red-petiole philodendron: petioles, leaf undersides, and young new growth are often dark red.
Fiddle-leaf philodendron: also called split-leaf philodendron, leaves fiddle-shaped, 5-lobed, basal lobes wide, ear-shaped, narrow in the middle, apex long oval, dark green, glossy.
Heart-leaf philodendron: also known as sharp heart climbing philodendron and round-leaf philodendron, stems and leaves green, leaves heart-shaped.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' and most others are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, climbing and growing on tree trunks and rocks. They like warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. The optimum growth temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' is mostly propagated by cuttings, and roots very easily in high-temperature seasons. Generally from April to August, cut 3-4 nodes of the stem, remove the lower leaves, and insert the cuttings into a substrate of half leaf mold and half river sand, keeping the substrate and air moist. After 2-3 weeks, they can root and be potted.
The potting substrate for Philodendron 'Green Emerald' is preferably loam rich in humus and well-drained. Generally it can be prepared with 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat soil, and a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer. When planting, a pillar can be placed in the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it to let them climb and grow. It likes a high-temperature and high-humidity environment and must keep the potting soil moist, especially in summer when it cannot lack water, and water should also be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently; but avoid water accumulation in the potting soil, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Generally water once a day in spring and summer, once every 3-5 days in autumn; in winter, reduce the amount of watering, but the potting soil cannot be completely dry. During the growth season, pay attention to topdressing frequently, generally fertilizing 1-2 times a month; in late autumn and winter, growth slows or stops, so stop fertilizing. It likes bright light and avoids strong direct sunlight. Generally during the growth season, 50%-60% shading is needed; but it can also endure dim indoor environments, although too weak light for a long time easily causes leggy growth, longer internodes, and weak growth, which is not good for viewing.
Philodendron 'Green Emerald' has broad, dark green leaves. Grown with support, it can form a green round pillar, with a neat and vigorous plant shape, full of tropical style. It has strong shade tolerance and is very suitable for indoor decorative cultivation. It is often grown in medium and large sizes and placed in halls, meeting rooms, offices, and other places, where it is extremely spectacular.Spider plant
Spider plant is a perennial evergreen foliage plant of the Liliaceae family, Chlorophytum genus. Spider plant is a perennial herb with clustered cylindrical fleshy fibrous roots and rhizomes. The biggest feature of spider plant is that mature plants will from time to time produce runners, and small plantlets will grow at the tips of the runners. Flower scapes slender, longer than the leaves, curved and drooping; flowers white, several per cluster, sparsely scattered on the inflorescence axis. The flowering period is between spring and summer, and it can also bloom indoors in winter. At present, in addition to the pure green-leaf variety, horticultural varieties of spider plant also include large-leaf spider plant, golden-centered spider plant, and golden-edged spider plant. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. It has strong adaptability and is relatively drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant. It is not selective about soil, and grows better in loose sandy loam. It is not strict about light; generally it is suitable for growing under medium light conditions, and it also tolerates weak light. The optimum growth temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Spider plant can be propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low for division, it can be done in other seasons. For potted plants grown for 2-3 years, divide the dense potted seedlings into two to several clumps during spring repotting, and pot them separately as new plants. Spider plant can also be propagated using the small plantlets on the runners. During the growth season, cut off the small plantlets on the runners, plant them in culture soil or water, and transplant into pots after the small plantlets have rooted.
For potting spider plant, commonly use equal parts leaf mold or peat soil, garden soil, and river sand mixed with a small amount of base fertilizer as the substrate. Repot once every 2-3 years and remix the culture soil. Its fleshy roots have well-developed water-storage tissue and relatively strong drought resistance, but during the vigorous growth period from March to September it needs a relatively large amount of water, so water and spray frequently to increase humidity; after autumn, gradually reduce the amount of watering to improve the plant's cold resistance. During the vigorous growth period, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month. Fertilizer should be mainly nitrogen fertilizer, but golden-centered and golden-edged varieties should not be given excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the linear markings on the leaves will become less obvious. Spider plant likes a semi-shaded environment. If the placement location has too strong or insufficient light, the leaves easily turn pale green or yellow-green, lack vitality, lose their proper ornamental value, or even dry up and die; if there is direct sunlight and dry air, spider plant is most likely to become scorched, so it should be placed in a cool, ventilated place, and attention should be paid to maintaining environmental humidity. Spider plant is not prone to pests and diseases, but if the potting soil has water accumulation and ventilation is poor, besides causing root rot, root rot disease may also occur, and attention should be paid to spraying chemicals for control.
Spider plant has stems and leaves like orchids, evergreen throughout the four seasons, and when suspended indoors can be called an “air flower.” The stolons it sends out from the leaf axils produce many small plantlets with roots that hang down along the pot, very elegant. Spider plant is also called an indoor air “purifier.” It can absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen peroxide, and other volatile gases, purifying the room air and benefiting human health. However, spider plant often easily has withered leaf tips, affecting its appearance, so attention must be paid to prevention and control. The method of prevention and control should start from the causes: There are more than 200 kinds of spider plant, and common ones include golden-edged, silver-edged spider plant, golden-centered spider plant, and entire-edged spider plant. Spider plant is native to South Africa, South America, and tropical regions of Asia. It likes warmth, semi-shade, and humidity, and is not cold-tolerant. If water is insufficient in summer and autumn, or winter frost is relatively severe, the leaf tips often easily wither. Specific prevention and control methods can be taken: (1) Frequently pay attention to watering and spraying to keep the potting soil and surrounding air moist. Because it has many leaves and is suspended in the air, or placed in a ventilated place on a balcony, it needs a relatively large amount of water. Therefore, it is necessary to frequently water and spray the potting soil, leaf surface, and around the pot. Generally in summer and autumn, water and spray 1-2 times a day in the morning and evening; in winter and spring, water once every 4-5 days, less in winter and a little more in spring. Only in this way can the potting soil remain moist and the air humid. At the same time, the leaves of spider plant should also be cleaned of dust in time to keep them fresh and enhance ornamental appeal. (2) Place the flowerpot in a semi-shaded place to prevent strong light exposure. Although spider plant needs an appropriate amount of light, it avoids direct sunlight, otherwise it also easily causes leaf withering. (3) Spider plant is suitable for a large pot with few plants, and likes sandy loam with good drainage and air permeability. For example, for a medium-sized flowerpot, generally planting 2-3 plants is suitable. If there are too many plants, the water demand is also greater; if the pot is small and the soil water supply is insufficient, the leaves also easily wither. Attention should also be paid to frequently cutting off withered and dead leaves. It is also possible, in combination with repotting in spring or autumn each year, to change a smaller pot to a larger pot for planting, and at the same time remove excess branches and leaves.Golden barrel cactus
Golden barrel cactus, also known as yellow-spined golden barrel cactus, is the most charming cactus ball species in the Cactaceae family, Echinocactus genus. There are also several main variants in cultivation, such as white-spined golden barrel cactus, wild-spined golden barrel cactus, short-spined golden barrel cactus, variegated golden barrel cactus, and crested golden barrel cactus.
Origin and habits: Golden barrel cactus is native to desert regions of Mexico, and has now been introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. Golden barrel cactus likes sufficient sunlight, and mostly likes fertile, well-permeable sandy loam. During the high-temperature and hot period in summer, it should be appropriately shaded to prevent the ball from being burned by strong light.
Morphological characteristics: The stem of the golden barrel cactus is spherical, the ball is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the ball is densely covered with golden-yellow wool; flowers yellow, terminal in the wool cluster, of equal size, very beautiful and spectacular; fruit covered with scales and wool, seeds black and smooth.
Propagation techniques: Golden barrel cactus is propagated by sowing and by grafting young balls. 1. Sowing method: Seeds collected in the current year have a high emergence rate. Sowing is carried out from May to September. After germination, 30-40 days later the seedling balls are already the size of rice grains or mung beans, and can be transplanted or grafted onto rootstock to accelerate growth. 2. Young ball grafting method: graft seedlings cultivated for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus to accelerate growth. When the scion grows to a certain size or the rootstock cannot support it, it can be cut off, dried at the wound, and then used for cuttings and potting. In a good environment with fertile soil and air circulation, seedlings grown without grafting also grow quickly. After potting, seedling plants or grafted young balls should be placed in semi-shade, avoiding direct sunlight. If the ball does not shrink after 7-10 days, it has survived.
Management techniques: Golden barrel cactus likes sandy loam containing lime, and can be mixed with equal amounts of coarse sand, loam, leaf mold, and a small amount of old wall ash. Repot and change soil once a year and cut off old roots. In mid-March, take the ball out of the pot, cut off old roots, and do not damage the main root. After cutting, place the ball in a ventilated place to dry for 4-5 days so the cut dries; the new culture soil used for repotting should preferably use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, add coal ash, plant ash, and a small amount of animal bone meal, etc., mix evenly; the pot should be disinfected by sunlight, steaming, or spraying chemicals to prevent ball rot.
Golden barrel cactus likes sufficient sunlight, but in summer it should be semi-shaded. When the temperature reaches above 35°C, shade it around noon to avoid strong sunlight burning the ball. Before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., it can be placed in sunlight to promote more flower buds, and can avoid excessive shading causing the ball to elongate and reduce ornamental value. In winter, keep the temperature at 8-10°C and keep the potting soil dry. If the temperature is too low, yellow spots will appear on the ball. Prevent rain exposure in summer.
Summer is the peak growth season for golden barrel cactus, and its water demand increases. If drought occurs, water frequently, preferably in the early morning and evening. Absolutely do not water with very cold water at hot noon, as it easily causes “chilling” and disease. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, a little spraying to moisten the pot surface is enough; do not spray water on the top of the ball or the grafted part, to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growth period, apply dilute fertilizer liquid containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other components 1-2 times about every half month, in combination with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed, and the concentration should be appropriate.
Golden barrel cactus is robust by nature and has strong disease resistance, but in summer, due to factors such as humidity, heat, and poor ventilation, it is easily harmed by red spiders, mealybugs, whiteflies, and other pests and diseases, so control should be strengthened. For harm from pests and diseases such as red spiders, mealybugs, and whiteflies, control should be strengthened. For red spiders, spray 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon at 1000-1500 times dilution for control. When mealybugs, whiteflies, and other pests are found, they can be manually wiped off.
Ornamental value: Golden barrel cactus has a very long lifespan and is easy to cultivate. Adult large golden barrel cacti are full of flowers and robust balls, resplendent and magnificent, with high ornamental value. Moreover, they are small in volume and occupy little space, making them an ideal ornamental plant for urban home greening.Peace tree (cinnamon)
Peace tree is an elegant name for plants of the cinnamon group in the Lauraceae family, Cinnamomum genus. It is an evergreen small tree, with green branchlets, smooth and without down, leaves opposite or nearly opposite, ovate-oblong, apex pointed, thick leathery, leaves about 10 cm to 22 cm long and 5 cm to 8 cm wide, bright green on the upper side with metallic luster, gray-green to yellow-green on the underside, with obvious triplinerved veins, and is a relatively popular foliage plant.
It prefers a warm, humid environment with plenty of sunlight, is relatively shade-tolerant, and enjoys a warm, hot environment without frost or snow, with lots of fog and high humidity; it is not tolerant of drought, severe cold, or saline-alkaline conditions. For cultivation, a loose, fertile, well-drained, acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter should be used. Its optimum growth temperature is 22°C to 30°C, and it cannot tolerate low temperatures below 5°C, so it should be brought indoors before Frost's Descent and moved outside after Pure Brightness. Its light requirements are as follows: from mid-May to mid-October, it should be given 40% to 50% shade, as too much light easily causes the leaves to be scorched, but it can also grow well if kept long-term in a bright spot indoors. During the growing season, the potting soil should always be kept moist, and the leaves and surrounding environment should be misted frequently to keep the relative air humidity at around 80%. In northern regions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder should be added to the irrigation water, or a small amount of edible vinegar can be dripped in, to increase the acidity of the water and meet its need for an acidic soil environment. For potted plants, the soil should be loosened once a month during the growing season to keep the root system in a well-aerated state. After the plant sproutes new leaves, a dilute cake fertilizer solution can be applied once a month, and after autumn, 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied 2 consecutive times to increase the plant's cold resistance. When fertilizing, avoid raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer, and heavy fertilizer, and especially avoid high-concentration chemical fertilizer solutions, otherwise it can easily cause fertilizer burn to the roots, leading to yellowing and scorching of the leaves and plant death.
Under indoor conditions with poor ventilation, high temperature and humidity, and insufficient light, the leaves are prone to brown spot disease, but it usually occurs mostly from April to May. The symptoms are as follows: it mostly occurs on new leaves, starting with oval yellow-brown lesions on the leaf surface, which then continuously expand, and more small black dots appear within the lesions on the upper surface of the leaf; the underside of the lesions is purple, and after the whole leaf yellows, it wilts and falls off. Control methods: if a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and burn them promptly. At the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. For a small number of lesions on household potted plants, miconazole cream can be applied to inhibit the expansion of the lesions.
Yellowing and falling leaves may be caused by the following reasons: First, it is a newly potted plant bought from the south, with severely damaged roots, compounded by long-distance transport and cold weather. Second, the indoor temperature in winter is below 5°C, causing yellowing and leaf drop due to cold damage. Third, overwatering leads to root rot, causing the plant to yellow and drop leaves. Fourth, the water is alkaline, causing the leaves to yellow slowly. Fifth, improper fertilization, with too much or too concentrated fertilizer, causes the nutrient fibrous roots to lose water, shrivel, and die. For plants with yellowing and falling leaves, check the root system; if part of the roots has already rotted, cut off the rotted part and replant it with clean, fresh potting soil. Around the cut near the root system, a ring of moist fine sand should be placed to promote wound healing and the sprouting of new roots. All dead branches and leaves can be cut off. After repotting, mist more and water less, keeping the potting soil moist. After mid-April, when the outdoor temperature is not lower than 15°C, it can be moved outdoors, and normal fertilization can only resume after new leaves have grown.Zebra Dumb Cane
Zebra Dumb Cane, also called Giant Dumb Cane and dumb cane, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family. Its stem is cylindrical and fleshy, often with white ring patterns on the stem, which are the traces left after leaves fall off. The leaves of Zebra Dumb Cane are long oval, with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes scattered on both sides of the green main vein, making them look especially beautiful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name Zebra Dumb Cane.
Zebra Dumb Cane is native to Colombia and prefers a warm, humid climate. Its optimum growth temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and the indoor temperature in winter should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potting soil, a mix of 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand can be used. Zebra Dumb Cane prefers a semi-shaded environment and avoids direct sunlight, so it can be grown indoors year-round. It is tolerant of waterlogging, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray so that water continuously seeps into the potting soil through the small holes at the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not frozen, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If kept indoors for the winter, the growth may be weak and tend toward legginess, so it can be placed outdoors in a semi-shaded spot for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors after its vigor recovers. Fertilization can be carried out during the growing season, depending on the growth vigor, once or twice a month, mostly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer, to promote dark green leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.
Its “flower” is the typical spathe and spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or never sets seeds, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically asexual, mainly by tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method is to cut the old stem into small sections of 10 to 15 cm in spring, insert them diagonally into sandy soil, keep them moist, and transplant them into pots after they take root and grow leaves. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, the stem can be cut into small sections with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, left to dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, and then planted directly in a pot; kept moist, they will quickly take root and grow leaves. You can also cut a stem section with leaves and insert it into a transparent glass water bottle, fixing it with white rice stone used for building decoration, and in about half a month you can see it grow pure white, jade-like fibrous roots, so you can enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, care should be taken during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as Zebra Dumb Cane, which also have some ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and luster, a tall plant, and thick stems, making it an ideal indoor ornamental plant.Maidenhair Fern
Maidenhair Fern: also called wire grass and iron-wire grass, it is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Adiantum in the Adiantaceae family.
Maidenhair Fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern, with a plant height of 10-40 cm. The rhizome is horizontal, densely covered with brown scale hairs, and the leaf stalks are slender and hard, like iron wire, hence the name Maidenhair Fern. Its ecological habit is to prefer a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment.
Maidenhair Fern is mainly propagated by division. Division is best done in spring before the new buds sprout, in conjunction with repotting. Take the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old potting soil, cut the rhizome, divide it into two to several clumps, and pot them separately. In addition, after the spores of Maidenhair Fern mature, they scatter in a warm, humid environment and reproduce and grow on their own; when they have grown to a certain size, they can also be potted.
Maidenhair Fern prefers loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potting, the potting soil can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mold, and river sand. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to always keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. Maidenhair Fern prefers bright, diffused light and avoids direct sunlight. Too strong light will cause the leaves to yellow and even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant; its optimum growth temperature is 13-22°C, and its winter overwintering temperature is 5°C.Dragon Tree (Dracaena)
Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco), is a species in the genus Dracaena, in the Agavaceae family, genus Dracaena.
The Dragon Tree was originally a wild plant in the tropical forests of Hainan Island, and after artificial domestication and cultivation, it has now become a shade-loving plant suitable for indoor display.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen tree. The plant height can reach 10 m, slightly branched. The leaves are mostly densely borne on the flat crown, sword-shaped, 45 cm to 60 cm long, 3 cm to 4 cm wide, hard and upright, bright green. The panicle is white with green. What is commonly seen in cultivation is a stemless or short-stemmed foliage young tree.
Key points for propagation and cultivation: It can be propagated by cuttings, layering, and sowing. For cuttings, in early spring use mature thick branches, remove the leaves, cut them into 5 cm to 10 cm sections, place them flat in a hotbed with bottom heat, keep the temperature at 25°C to 30°C and the air relatively moist, and they will take root in about 1 month. For outdoor cuttings in summer, a shade shed is needed to block light. For sowing, seeds can be collected from larger old plants and sown in spring. The cultivation soil should be a mixed fertile soil made of leaf mold, clay loam, and sand.
Application value: The Dragon Tree is both a foliage flower and a flowering flower, suitable as background material for decorating the main rostrum of large venues, and is extremely spectacular. The leaf bases, stems, and branches can be used to extract traditional Chinese medicine, which has a hemostatic effect.Broadleaf Lady Palm
[Aliases] Guanyin bamboo, palm bamboo
[Family and genus] Palmae, genus Rhapis
[Origin] Southeastern, southern, and southwestern China; Japan
[Growth habits]It prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environment. It is drought-tolerant and afraid of strong sunlight. Its optimum growth temperature is 25-30°C, and the winter nighttime temperature is best not lower than 5°C, but it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0°C. It should avoid long periods of cold wind, frost, and snow. Generally, potted plants can safely overwinter indoors.
[Soil] It prefers fertile and well-drained sandy loam, and grows well in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus.
[Temperature and environment]It prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded, and ventilated environment. It grows well in a semi-shaded environment. In summer and autumn, direct sunlight should be avoided, and about 70% shading is best. In summer, especially avoid direct sun exposure, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and the plant will grow slowly. In winter and spring, more light is preferable.
[Water and fertilizer] From May to September, during the peak growing period, water more to keep the soil moist; it is better to keep it wet than dry, but it must not become waterlogged, otherwise the roots will easily rot. During high temperatures, the leaves and ground should also be sprayed frequently with water to increase air humidity, and in autumn and winter the amount of watering should be appropriately reduced. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote dark green, verdant leaves. Fertilization should stop in winter.
[Pest and disease control]In a well-ventilated environment, there are few pests and diseases. If ventilation is poor, scale insects and aphids are likely to occur. If only a small number appear, remove them manually in time, pay attention to ventilation, and prune dead branches and fallen leaves promptly.
[Economic value]This species is a traditionally excellent foliage plant in China. Its plant form is compact and elegant, its leaf shape is refined, and it is full of tropical charm, while also having the elegance of bamboo. It is suitable for potted display and appreciation in homes, offices, meeting rooms, entrance halls, and other indoor places.Lacy Tree Philodendron
English name: Lacy tree philodendron
Family and genus: Araceae, genus Philodendron
Scientific name: Philodendron selloum Koch
Lacy Tree Philodendron was originally named feather-leaved philodendron (feather-leaved monstera), and is native to Brazil, Paraguay, and other places. It is a perennial herb. The plant height can reach 1 meter, and the stem is thick and upright, with a diameter of up to 10 cm; the stem has obvious leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots. The leaves extend in all directions from the top of the stem, with petioles about 40-50 cm long. The leaf blade is fresh and glossy, ovate-cordate, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but potted plants are generally only about half that size. The entire leaf is deeply pinnatifid and leathery. The leaves of seedling juvenile stages are thinner and triangular; as growth proceeds, the leaves gradually become larger, and the pinnate incisions become more numerous and deeper. Lacy Tree Philodendron prefers a high-temperature, high-humidity environment, has no strict light requirements, is not cold-tolerant, and tolerates shade. It can be grown in pots anywhere indoors where the light is not too weak. It prefers fertile, loose, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. It is commonly propagated by cuttings. The best time is from May to September. Cut healthy stems with 2-3 nodes and insert them directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keep them moist, and they will take root in about 20 days. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist; especially in summer, it must not lack water, and mist the leaves frequently. Fertilize once a month. The plant grows rapidly, so it needs repotting every spring. In winter, growth is slow, so fertilization should stop and water should be reduced. For home cultivation, it should be renewed after 3-4 years. Common problems include leaf spot disease and scale insect damage. For leaf spot disease, spray 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution for control, and for scale insects, spray 50% at 1000 times dilution to kill them. Lacy Tree Philodendron has a unique leaf form and is very shade-tolerant, suitable for indoor hall display, and especially suitable for decorating music tearooms and hotel lounges. Species in the same genus include Philodendron imbe.Jade Plant, also known as Yanzi Zhang and Sedum Tree, is a plant of the Crassulaceae family, genus Crassula.
It is native to South Africa and is now cultivated in various places. Evergreen small shrub. Stem cylindrical, gray-green, jointed. Leaves opposite, flat, fleshy, oval, entire, apex slightly pointed, base rounded and clasping the stem. Flowers red. It prefers warmth and dryness, and likes full sunlight and ventilation. It prefers loose sandy potting soil. Avoid overly wet soil. Propagation is mainly by cuttings. Soft branches or leaves can be used for cuttings. Before inserting, the cuttings need to be dried in the shade. They can be inserted in spring or autumn into moist yellow sand or perlite.
The cultivation and management of Jade Plant is simple and extensive, but to achieve a full, robust plant shape and have it bloom all over the tree as scheduled, there is indeed some work to be done. First, Jade Plant grows relatively quickly, so it needs repotting every spring, adding fertile soil, and placing it in a sunny spot for care. Apply a thin fertilizer solution once every 10 days to half a month, and water once every 2 to 3 days, following the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. In the heat of midsummer, Jade Plant enters a semi-dormant state and is afraid that strong light will scorch the leaves, so shade care should be provided at this time. Stop fertilizing in summer, pay attention to ventilation, and prevent the leaves from turning yellow and falling off. If there is continuous heavy rain, avoid letting it be washed by torrential rain, so as to prevent water accumulation at the roots and root rot and death. From August to October, when autumn arrives and it turns cooler, Jade Plant begins to recover its growth, so light should be strengthened again and shading equipment removed; at this time, fertilization and watering are in principle the same as in spring. Before Frost's Descent, move it into a greenhouse, place it in a sunny spot indoors, stop fertilizing, and control watering, basically watering once every half a month, with the amount of water being half that of summer. Jade Plant is not cold-tolerant in winter, and the temperature should be kept above 7°C. Prune and shape it once a year, in spring when repotting or in late autumn when moving it into the greenhouse, so that the plant shape remains simple and elegant all year round.
Jade Plant has relatively few pests and diseases, but sometimes suffers from anthracnose and leaf spot disease, which can be controlled by spraying 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. If indoor ventilation is poor, the stems and leaves are susceptible to scale insect damage. Once pests are found, they should be manually washed off immediately; when the damage is severe, spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution for control.
Jade Plant, its leaves contain euphol, and when the human body comes into contact with the sap flowing from the leaves, it can cause skin redness, swelling, and pain; if it splashes into the eyes, it can also lead to blindness.
Although Jade Plant is not striking in appearance, because this succulent plant is robust, drought-tolerant, easy to cultivate, and full of branches and leaves, with leaves as green as jade all year round, and because the swollen stem nodes on its stem have the posture of an old tree stump, potted Jade Plants are now relatively commonly seen on the balconies of urban and rural residences in the Jiangnan region.
Although Jade Plant is easy to propagate, easy to plant, and easy to manage, it is still common to see Jade Plants on some residents' balconies looking elegant in spring, summer, and autumn, only to become wilted and colorless once winter passes, and even become a “plucked chicken.” This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-cultivate side of Jade Plant and ignore its fragile side. After severe cold arrives, they still place it on an open balcony and let it suffer cold wind and freezing, causing the Jade Plant to suffer freezing damage. After freezing damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of Jade Plant begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off; in severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.
Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering potted Jade Plants on balconies is very important, and the following key points should be mainly grasped:
1. Move the pot indoors in time. After winter begins, move the Jade Plant to an indoor place where 7°C to 10°C can be maintained for warmth. On warmer days, at noon, the Jade Plant can be moved to the balcony to bathe in sunlight, and moved back indoors at night.
2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should mainly be slightly dry, and fine mist should be sprayed on the leaves at appropriate times to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.
3. Move it into a warm shed for warmth. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if not, a plastic film cover can also be used, but attention should be paid to the humidity inside the cover. If excessive moisture is found, the cover should be opened in time for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.
4. If the Jade Plant has already suffered freezing damage due to earlier mistakes in cold protection measures, do not easily discard the plant. As long as the frozen leaves and tender branches are removed and the plump main stem is preserved, and fertilizer is applied appropriately the following spring, new branches and leaves can still sprout from the main stem. Generally, after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect Jade Plant again.Dracaena fragrans
Latin name: Dracaena
The leaves of Dracaena fragrans are broadly linear, dark green, sessile, with slightly wavy leaf margins. The leaves can reach 80 cm long. It is suitable for high-temperature and high-humidity environments. Both ample light and shade are acceptable. A dormancy temperature of 13°C is suitable, and it must not be lower than 5°C. It is evergreen in all four seasons, highly adaptable, easy to manage, slow-growing, and long-lived. It is an excellent foliage plant for indoors and outdoors, especially indoors.
The maintenance method for Dracaena fragrans is the same as for Dragon Tree (Dracaena).ZZ Plant
A foliage plant of the Araceae family, genus Zamioculcas, native to tropical Africa. It is an evergreen perennial with underground tubers. There is no main stem above ground; adventitious buds germinate from the tubers to form large compound leaves. The leaflets are fleshy with short petiolules, firm and dark green, with a bright luster, and high ornamental value. It is suitable for growing under different light intensities and has strong shade tolerance, earning it the title of “King of Shade Tolerance.” It is a newly introduced high-grade indoor ornamental plant. The ZZ Plant has large tubers, which sprout numerous buds and form many small tubers. The compound leaves have a lifespan of more than 2-3 years and are constantly renewed by new leaves. ZZ Plant seedlings do not grow quickly, so they can be grown in small or medium pots for appreciation, and are also suitable for large mixed plantings.
Ecological habits
The ZZ Plant is native to the tropical (savanna) climate zone of eastern Africa with relatively low rainfall. It prefers a warm, hot, slightly dry, semi-shaded environment with small annual average temperature variation. It is relatively drought-tolerant, but afraid of cold, and avoids strong light exposure. It fears heavy, sticky soil and water accumulation in the potting soil. If the potting soil has poor permeability, it can easily cause its tubers to rot. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil rich in organic matter, acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong sprouting ability; after cutting off the thick compound leaves, new leaves will quickly emerge from the top of the tuber.
Propagation techniques
Division: In April, when the outdoor temperature reaches above 18°C, take the large ZZ Plant out of the pot, shake off most of the old soil, split it apart from the weak points where the tubers meet, apply sulfur powder or plant ash to the wounds, and pot them separately. Note that when planting, do not bury them too deeply; burying the top of the tuber 1.5-2 cm below the soil surface is sufficient. In addition, based on the characteristic that ZZ Plant tubers have latent buds, a large single tuber can be cut into small pieces with 2-3 latent buds. After the wounds have dried, first bury and plant them in slightly moist fine sand, and after the cut small tubers grow into independent plants, pot them separately.
Cuttings: The cuttings can be a single small leaflet, a section of leaf rachis with 2 leaflets, or a separate section of leaf rachis. From the perspective of rooting effect, cuttings with leaf rachis and leaflets root faster, have a higher sprouting rate, and more easily form larger tubers. Insert a single leaf into a mixed substrate of river sand and vermiculite; after 10-14 days, a small rooted bulbous stem will form at the leaf base, and after 2-3 months of cultivation, it can grow into a small plant, but under normal circumstances the seedling formation rate is not high. If the leaf rachis or leaf rachis with leaflets is used as the cutting, the substrate can be ordinary fine sand, or a substrate mixed with peat soil, perlite, and river sand in a 3:1:1 ratio. The insertion depth of the cutting is 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, leaving only the leaves outside the substrate. After spraying thoroughly with water, place it in a shaded place, maintain an ambient temperature of 25°C to 27°C, and according to the degree of dryness and moisture of the substrate, mist the leaf surface 1-2 times a day, keeping the substrate slightly moist; it must not be overly moist, otherwise it will cause the cutting to rot and lead to cutting failure. When the cutting has formed a certain root system, the middle of the root gradually swells to form a spherical small tuber. The tuber gradually enlarges. Some relatively tender cutting leaves, after potting, may yellow and die due to high temperature or poor water management, but the tuber can survive. Older mature leaves and cuttings with the whole leaf stalk can also remain green and vigorous. A small number of tubers can sprout and grow new leaves in the same year, but the growth vigor is weak and growth is slow. The next year, the tuber will grow thick new shoots and grow normally.
Cultivation and management
Temperature: The optimum growth temperature is 20-32°C. Whether potted or field planted, it requires small annual average temperature variation. For commercial cultivation, it is best to carry it out in a temperature-controlled greenhouse. Every summer, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, the plant grows poorly, so measures such as adding black shade netting and spraying water around the environment should be used to cool it down and create a suitable environment with a suitable ambient temperature and relatively dry air. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10°C. If the room temperature is below 5°C, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold damage and then seriously endangers its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops below 8°C, it should be moved in time to a bright indoor place, and throughout the overwintering period, the temperature should be kept between 8°C and 10°C, which is relatively safe and reliable.
Light: The ZZ Plant likes light and also has strong shade tolerance, so it should be given an environment with good sunlight but also a certain degree of shade. It avoids direct strong light, and especially should avoid the scorching sun after long rain and sudden clearing in late spring and early summer, as well as the 5-6 hours of unobstructed strong light baking around noon in summer, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves are very easily scorched. In commercial cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade shed with 50-70% shading, but it must not be too dark, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves will become slender, the leaf color will turn yellow and listless, and the leaflets will be sparsely spaced, thus affecting the compact and beautiful form of the plant. For potted plants moved into a greenhouse in winter, supplemental lighting should be provided. Keep the potting soil on the dry side, and the plant can remain disease-free year after year. In addition, the newly sprouted pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant shape remains good.
Water: To maintain a potted ZZ Plant well, efforts should be made to create an environment that is both humid and on the dry side. In commercial cultivation, for plants placed in a greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, spray the plant once a day. Because this plant has strong drought tolerance, it is better to keep the potting soil slightly moist and on the dry side, but occasional excessive watering and fertilizing will not necessarily cause root rot. In winter, pay attention to spraying water on the leaf surface and the surrounding environment so that the relative air humidity reaches above 50%. After mid-autumn, reduce watering, or use spraying instead of watering, so that the newly sprouted tender leaves can safely overwinter. In addition, in winter, special attention should be paid to the fact that the potting soil must not be too moist; it is better to keep it on the dry side, otherwise under low temperature conditions, overly wet potting soil is more likely to cause root rot, and even the death of the whole plant.
Soil: Due to the special climatic conditions of its place of origin, the ZZ Plant has developed strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The cultivation substrate is mostly peat, coarse sand, or washed cinder mixed with a small amount of garden soil, and its pH should be adjusted to between 6 and 6.5, in a slightly acidic state. Because its tubers are large, its root system is well developed, and its pinnate compound leaves are relatively long, during the growing season its growth should be observed in time to decide whether to repot and change the soil. Always keep the cultivation substrate well permeable, so as to create a root environment with good air and water drainage. During the plum rain season, check frequently; if water accumulation in the pot is found, repot and change the soil in time.
Fertilizer: The ZZ Plant relatively likes fertilizer. In addition to adding an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer to the cultivation substrate, during the growing season a mixed solution of 0.2% urea plus 0.1% monopotassium phosphate can be applied 2-3 times a month, or a balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) can be applied at a concentration of 200-250 ppm in combination with calcium nitrate. After mid-autumn, to help it overwinter safely, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and 0.3% monopotassium phosphate solution should be applied 2-3 consecutive times to promote the hardening and filling of the young leaf rachis and newly sprouted leaves. After the temperature drops below 15°C, all forms of topdressing should be stopped to avoid fertilizer damage to the roots under low temperature conditions.
Pest and disease control
Freezing damage: When the winter temperature drops below 5°C, combined with moist potting soil, it easily causes the plant's tender leaves to freeze and collapse, and in severe cases causes tuber rot, making it very difficult to recover.
Control methods: In commercial cultivation, the greenhouse temperature during overwintering should be maintained at not less than 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept slightly dry.
Sunscald: In hot summer, or on clear days after long rain and sudden clearing, or for potted plants that have been kept indoors for a long time and have just been moved outdoors for restorative care, direct exposure to sunlight can easily scorch their plump tender leaves, causing part of the leaf to lose green and turn white, or the entire leaf to be scorched, with the necrotic part later turning brown and black.
Brown spot disease: This disease mostly occurs on the leaves. The lesions are nearly round, gray-brown to yellow-brown, with slightly darker edges. This disease is prone to occur under conditions of high temperature, high humidity, and poor ventilation. Control methods: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, remove and destroy them in time. At the early stage of the disease, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 600 times dilution or 40% chlorothalonil suspension at 500 times dilution, spraying the leaves once every 10 days for 3-4 consecutive times, with relatively good control effect.
Control methods: After summer begins, move the plant in time to a semi-shaded environment. In late spring and early summer after long rain and sudden clearing, shade the potted plant as early as possible.
Scale insects: In an environment with poor ventilation and insufficient light, the leaves of the ZZ Plant are susceptible to the sap-sucking damage of scale insects.
Control methods: In commercial cultivation, during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray 20% buprofezin wettable powder at 1000 times dilution, which has a good insecticidal effect.
Radermachera
Generally refers to the “Radermachera sinica” of the Bignoniaceae family, genus Radermachera.
Radermachera sinica, also called pepper tree and bone-setting parasol, is a deciduous tree native to southern China, of the Bignoniaceae family, genus Radermachera. From the collected pictures, “Radermachera” mainly refers to Radermachera sinica, whose scientific name is Radermachera sinica. The tender branches have mucus. The leaves are 1- to 3-pinnate compound leaves, the leaflets are entire and stalked, and the bark is light gray with deep longitudinal fissures. The capsule is long and strip-shaped, leathery, 85 cm long and about 1 cm in diameter. It is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan, and other places, and is also distributed in Bhutan. Because its leaves are emerald green and glossy, with a metallic luster, and it likes light while being extremely shade-tolerant, young potted trees are high-grade foliage plants.
Radermachera sinica prefers a high-temperature and high-humidity environment, and can be propagated by cuttings, sowing, layering, and other methods. For cultivation, sandy loam is best; it can be given full sun or semi-shade. Its optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 28°C. It is suitable to carry out a pruning and shaping before spring sprouting. During indoor display, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, the leaf surface should also be misted frequently, and it should be placed in a bright location.
It should be especially noted that in winter, the greenhouse temperature should be kept not lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage is likely to occur, and even the whole plant may die. Control watering, and do not water until the surface soil is dry. If the room is too dry, spray water on the plant and surrounding environment; do not apply fertilizer.False Aralia
False Aralia is an evergreen small tree or shrub of the Araliaceae family, genus Plerandra. It can reach 3 m in height. The leaves are alternate; the palmately compound leaves have 7-11 leaflets, shaped like slender fingers, with coarsely serrate leaf margins, arranged radially and alternately. The leaf surface is leathery, dark green, with a copper-red metallic luster on the leaves. When it grows to more than 2 m, the fine leaves will become broad leaves; this is its special characteristic. It is suitable for arrangement in relatively bright places such as spacious conference halls and restaurants, and can also be used as a decoration for the entrance halls of hotels and buildings, full of southern charm. The specific measures for cultivation and management are described as follows:
1. It prefers humus-rich loam, preferably a potting soil made by mixing leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand. From April to August, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half a month.
2. It prefers brightness and avoids exposure to strong sun. The optimum growth temperature is about 20-28°C. When air humidity is high, growth is more robust. In summer, if outdoors, it must be shaded by 50%. Indoor temperature is generally kept at 20°C to 30°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. If below 8°C, it is susceptible to freezing damage.
3. It requires moist potting soil, and avoids dryness as well as waterlogging. If too dry, the leaf tips easily wither. Spray the leaf surface and around the plant frequently to maintain air humidity. In winter, watering should be reduced as much as possible; cold and wet conditions easily cause leaf drop.
4. For plants with overly weak growth, heavy pruning can be carried out when new leaves sprout, leaving about 10 cm at the base. If the upper branches are dry and withered, heavy pruning is also advisable to promote the growth of branches and leaves.
5. It is mostly propagated by cuttings. From May to June each year, cut one-year-old lignified branches and insert them for cuttings in an environment at 20°C; they can take root and survive in about 30-plus days. It can also be propagated by sowing, but seeds are not easy to obtain and must be kept fresh.
6. For potted plants, repot and change the soil once every 2-3 years, and prune the branches after changing the soil. After many years of planting, if the plant ages and its vigor declines, heavy pruning should be carried out in spring, and sufficient fertilizer should then be given to promote the sprouting of new branches and leaves, making the tree form more beautiful.Monstera
Monstera, also known as Penglai banana and wire orchid, is an evergreen large vine of the Araceae family, genus Monstera.
Origin and habits: Native to Mexico and Central America. It prefers warmth, shade, and humidity, avoids direct sunlight, and requires fertile, well-drained soil.
Morphological characteristics: The vines of Monstera can reach more than 10 meters in length. The stem is thick and sturdy, and the aerial roots can reach 1-2 meters, spreading horizontally, slender and columnar, brown. The leaves are heart-shaped when young, without holes; after growing up, they become deeply pinnatifid, with perforations between the veins, leathery, and drooping.
Propagation techniques: Monstera is propagated by layering and cuttings. Layering is carried out from May to August, and after about 3 months it can be cut away from the mother plant. Cuttings are carried out from April to May. Cut the scions from the tips of the stem nodes, with each section bearing 2-3 stem nodes, remove the aerial roots, and insert them with leaves or without leaves into a sand bed, maintaining a certain temperature and humidity. After rooting, transplant them into pots.
Management techniques: For potted Monstera, leaf mold is best. During the growing period, water should be sufficient. When potting and repotting, a rim of 5-6 cm depth should be left to facilitate more watering. The potting soil must always be kept moist, watering once every 2-3 days. In dry weather, water should also be sprayed on the leaf surface to keep the air humid. Grasp the watering principle of keeping it wet rather than dry, so as to facilitate the growth of branches and leaves and keep the leaves vivid. In autumn and winter, the amount of watering can be gradually reduced. Excessive watering causes root rot, but the air should still remain relatively humid; spray water on the leaf surface every 7-10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera relatively likes fertilizer. To make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading; semi-shade is best. Avoid direct strong light, and especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise it easily causes the leaves to scorch and burn, affecting the ornamental value.
For large pots, use 1 wooden stick 1.3-1.5 meters long, insert it into the pot, and plant the Monstera, first to prevent lodging, and second so it can grow luxuriantly attached to the column. Alternatively, cut the overly tall stems for propagation, letting the mother plant sprout new stems and new leaves again. In winter, it needs to be placed indoors at above 10°C, but at least maintain a temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will freeze and scorch, and the potting soil should be on the dry side. During the growing period, Monstera often suffers from brown spot disease and anthracnose, which can be controlled by promptly spraying 50% thiophanate and 75% chlorothalonil at 1000 times dilution, or 50% carbendazim at 800-1000 times dilution. In summer and winter, when ventilation is poor, scale insects and noctuid larvae often occur on the back of the stems, sucking sap and eating tender leaves. They can be caught manually or brushed off, and it is best to spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution, or 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution, or 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution to kill them.
Monstera is a shade-tolerant foliage plant. Generally speaking, it can be kept indoors for a long time, but during the growing period, it is best to place it in a ventilated spot near a window indoors, so it can receive outdoor air and light. In the peak growing seasons of summer and autumn, if ventilation is poor, its growth will be affected; the newly grown leaves will be thinner, pale, and lusterless, reducing its ornamental value.
Keeping Monstera at home has a certain air-purifying effect. It is commonly grown in small and medium pots and placed in indoor living rooms, bedrooms, and studies. It can also be grown in large pots and placed in hotels, restaurants, halls, and indoors, or beside garden ponds and under large trees, giving a strong tropical feel. The leaves can also be used as cut-flower foliage material. Monstera has been relatively widely introduced and cultivated in China. The beautiful, unique, and varied Monstera is a famous indoor potted foliage plant and is very popular. Monstera is famous for its shade tolerance and is suitable for display and accent in indoor living rooms and corridors. In the south, it is often planted scattered in courtyards, beside park ponds, streams, rocks, and in stone crevices. The holes and incisions on Monstera leaves, some empty and some solid, are novel and interesting, and the aerial roots hanging at the pot mouth are simple and elegant.Guzmania
Also known as star bromeliad. A perennial epiphytic herbaceous plant. Potted plants are about 30 cm tall, and the crown width can reach 80 cm. The leaves are arranged in a slightly loose rosette. The flower scape often rises more than 20 cm above the leaf cluster. The flower scape, bracts, and several leaves at the base of the flower scape are all red, very brilliant; between the bracts there are small yellow flowers; the flowering period is spring; although the true flowers open for a relatively short time, the colored flower scape and bracts remain for a very long time, and the ornamental period can be about 2 months. It is suitable for cultivation under bright, diffused light indoors, and can be placed by a bright window for year-round appreciation. If the light is too dark, it is not easy to bloom. There are “Red Star” Guzmania, “Torch” Guzmania, and “Denise” Guzmania.
Temperature: Normal growth temperature is above 20°C during the day and above 15°C at night; during flower forcing, the temperature is 25-30°C; the minimum overwintering temperature is above 10°C.
Light: It prefers bright light. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, with about 50% shading; no shading in winter.
Water: Always keep water in the leaf tube, replacing it once every 2 weeks; water when the top 1 cm of the potting soil surface becomes dry; irrigate with soft water or rainwater.
Air humidity: Frequently spray water on the leaf surface and around the plant; foliar fertilization can be applied by spraying.
Repotting: After flowering, if division propagation is not carried out, repot when the clump grows very dense.
Propagation: When the tillering buds at the base grow to about 10 cm or more in height, cut them off from the base, let the wounds dry slightly, and pot them in fertilizer-free peat soil. Keep slightly moist, and they can take root in about one month.Chamaedorea
[Aliases] Hawaii palm, Chamaedorea seifrizii, bamboo-stemmed parlor palm
[Family and genus] Ceroxyloideae, genus Chamaedorea
[Origin] Tropical regions such as Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth habits] It prefers high temperature and high humidity, is shade-tolerant, fears direct sunlight, and can endure short-term low temperatures of 1-2°C.
[Soil] For potting, a loose, airy, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus should be used.
[Temperature and environment]This species prefers a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. Its optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter, if the temperature is kept above 10°C, it can grow normally, and it can also tolerate short-term low temperatures of 0°C. It has strong shade tolerance and can grow for a relatively long time in a dim indoor environment. However, bright, diffused light is beneficial for growth. Avoid direct strong light, otherwise the leaf color will fade or turn yellow.
[Watering and fertilizing]During the growing period, the potting soil should always be kept moist. When the air is dry, spray water on the leaf surface frequently to increase the air humidity of the environment, which is beneficial to plant growth and can keep the leaf surface dark green and glossy. In late autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering and keep the potting soil moist to enhance the plant's cold resistance and overwintering ability. During the growing season from March to October, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks to promote leaf growth and dark green leaf color.
[Pest and disease control] Under high-temperature and high-humidity conditions, this species may suffer from brown spot disease and downy mildew, which can be controlled by spraying carbendazim or thiophanate at 1000 times dilution.
[Economic value]The stems of this species resemble emerald bamboo, with dense branches and leaves, dark green and glossy leaves, and elegant pinnae, giving a sense of uprightness, elegance, lightness, and refined beauty. Because of its extremely strong shade tolerance, it is very suitable for courtyard landscaping and indoor potted appreciation.Black Bean
Original name: Castanospermum australe
Other names: Australian chestnut, Green Yuanbao, pistachio
Scientific name: Castanospermum australe
Name origin: It is called Green Yuanbao because its seeds resemble the shape of a yuanbao, so this name was chosen to bring good luck.
Distribution: Native to Australia
Family and genus: One view: Fabaceae; another view: Fabaceae, genus Castanospermum
Morphology: It is a medium-sized tree, with odd-pinnate compound leaves and alternate leaflets. The leaf shape is lanceolate-oblong, about 8-12 cm long, entire, and leathery. The pod can reach 20 cm long, and the seed (that is, the green yuanbao) is oval, as large as an egg, and can be roasted for eating.
Uses: Young plants of Castanospermum australe can be used as small potted plants and as indoor plants; mature plants can grow to more than 12 meters and are suitable as garden ornamental plants or street trees.
Sunlight: Young plants are shade-tolerant, with about 50-70% sunlight; mature plants require sufficient sunlight.
Management: It prefers high temperatures, with the most suitable growing temperature being 22-30°C.
The ornamental focus of the chestnut bean tree seedling lies in its swollen basal tuber and the sprouts that grow from it, so it must be kept clean and glossy; when watering daily, be careful to avoid splashing muddy water, and keep the surface in the pot level.
Water: It is suitable for planting in loose, fertile loam or sandy loam, and drainage must be good. In winter, avoid prolonged moisture.
Fertilizing: Fertilize once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Propagation: Propagated by sowing; spring and autumn are the most suitable seasons.Cyclamen
Cyclamen: Also known as rabbit ear flower, radish begonia, etc. Scientific name Cyclamen Persicum. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Cyclamen in the family Primulaceae, with unusual flower shapes. The leaves emerge from the top of the tuber and are heart-shaped, ovate, or kidney-shaped, with fine serrations along the leaf margins. The leaf surface is green with white or gray mottling, the leaf underside is green or purple, and the petioles are relatively long, reddish-brown, and fleshy. Flowers are solitary at the top of the flower stalk, nodding, with petals reflexed upward, especially like rabbit ears; flowers come in white, pink, rose red, bright red, purple red, snow blue, and other colors, often with dark red markings at the base; petal margins are varied, including entire, notched, wrinkled, and wavy forms.
Cyclamen is native to southern Europe, the Mediterranean coast, and other areas. It prefers a warm, humid, cool environment with soft light. The suitable growing temperature is 15°C-20°C. It is not cold-tolerant and fears high temperatures and strong sun. It is suitable for well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.
Cyclamen is a light-loving flower, and winter and spring are also its vigorous flowering and blooming period. To make the buds flourish, give sufficient sunlight during the bud stage, place it in a sunny spot indoors, and apply phosphorus fertilizer once every 1 week. It is best to water it with a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate compound fertilizer solution (containing zinc, boron, molybdenum, manganese, magnesium, copper, iron, sulfur, and other secondary and trace elements), about 150 ml per pot. At ordinary times, water once every one or two days to keep the potting soil moist. Never water heavily; water only when the potting soil has dried. But be sure not to let the potting soil become too dry, as excessive dryness will damage the root hairs and cause the upper part of the plant to wilt, and even heavy watering afterward will be difficult to restore. When watering, the water temperature should be close to room temperature.
Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer during the flowering period, otherwise it will cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and shorten the life of the flowers. If the leaves are too dense, thin them appropriately so that nutrients are concentrated and flowering is abundant. When removing leaves or dead flowers, to prevent infection by soft rot, immediately spray once with a 1000-fold “carbendazim” solution.
When cyclamen begins to bloom and continues to form buds, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C to 18°C, and must not be lower than 10°C. If the temperature is too high, the flowering period shortens; above 28°C, the leaves turn yellow. Never place the flowerpot on a radiator.Umbrella tree
Umbrella tree, also known as Queensland umbrella tree, Queensland shade tree, Australian schefflera, commonly called money tree, is a woody foliage plant of the genus Schefflera in the family Araliaceae.
The umbrella tree is a shrub with upright stems and few branches. Young stems are green and gradually become woody; the bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are palmately compound, and the number of leaflets varies greatly with growth: 3-5 when young, 9-12 when grown, and up to 16. The leaflets are long elliptic, with obtuse tips and short abrupt points, and obtuse bases; the leaf margins are wavy and leathery; when young they are densely covered with stellate short pubescence, and when slightly larger they are clean and hairless. The leaves are 15-25 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, with a dense and glossy upper surface, a pale green underside, and reddish-brown petioles. The inflorescence is umbel-like, with small white flowers borne terminally, flowering in spring, but potted plants rarely bloom.
The umbrella tree is native to Australia and some small islands in the Pacific Ocean, and is also distributed in the tropical regions of southern China. It is suitable for warm, humid, and well-ventilated environments. It likes sunlight and is also shade-tolerant, and grows well in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
The umbrella tree can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. When sowing, it is best to sow the seeds immediately after collection, as this gives a high germination rate. Cuttings can be taken in spring, summer, and autumn, and generally cutting is combined with shaping; cut the branches of an irregularly shaped plant 10-15 cm above the potting soil surface to let the mother stem sprout several branches and cultivate a good tree shape. Cut the removed semi-lignified branches into stem segments 8-10 cm long with 2-3 nodes, insert them into a cutting bed of river sand or perlite, maintain a certain substrate humidity and air humidity, and pay attention to shading. Generally, roots can form in about one month. For thick, large branches with a high degree of lignification, air layering can also be used for propagation.
For potted umbrella trees, a mixture of garden soil and leaf mold can be used as the substrate. March to October is its vigorous growing season, with a relatively large amount of growth. Generally, fertilize once a month, while keeping the soil moist and ensuring sufficient water, and frequently spray the leaves to avoid dry air and leaf chlorosis and yellowing. In summer, avoid direct sunlight and pay attention to appropriate shading, generally 30-40% shade, so that the leaves do not lose their luster or become scorched and yellowed from strong sun exposure. Indoor display should be placed in a spot with some diffused light, and attention should be paid to ventilation. In late autumn and winter, reduce watering and control fertilization; in late autumn, a 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate or other phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be sprayed for foliar feeding to promote branch and leaf maturation and improve cold resistance in winter. Under conditions of high temperature and humidity and poor ventilation in greenhouses and indoors, anthracnose, scale insects, or red spiders may occur, so observe carefully and control them promptly.
The leaves of the umbrella tree are broad and softly drooping, shaped like an umbrella; the branches and leaves layer upon layer, with an elegant plant shape, a light yet not thin posture, and a strong sense of layering, so in recent years it has been widely cultivated in all provinces and regions of China. The umbrella tree is shade-tolerant and easy to manage and maintain, and can be placed indoors continuously for a long time. It is an excellent medium-to-large foliage plant suitable for decoration in hotels, meeting rooms, living rooms, corridors, and passageways, and is also a quite ideal accent plant for corners of family living rooms, studies, and bedrooms.Periwinkle
Scientific name: Vinca major
Aliases: twining periwinkle, greater periwinkle
Family and genus: Apocynaceae, genus Vinca
Native to the Mediterranean coast, India, and tropical America. It is cultivated in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Taiwan, China, and other places. It is an evergreen trailing subshrub, growing in clumps. Vegetative stems lie prostrate or flat on the ground. Flowering branches are upright, 30-40 cm tall. Leaves are opposite, elliptic, with acute tips, green and glossy; the petioles on flowering branches are short. The whole plant is hairless except for hairs on the leaf margins, petioles, calyx, and throat of the corolla. Flowers are solitary in the leaf axils of flowering branches, with a salverform corolla, blue, 5-lobed. Fruits are paired and upright. Flowering period is April-May. The cultivar Variegata has slightly smaller leaves with yellow markings.
Periwinkle prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environment. It has strong adaptability and grows rapidly, with growth peaks in June-August and October each year. It is not strict about light, and grows best in a semi-shaded environment.
Periwinkle is commonly propagated by cuttings and division. Propagation can be carried out in spring, summer, and autumn, and it is easy to survive. When taking cuttings, cut semi-lignified stems with 3-4 nodes as cuttings. Since root buds grow from the nodes, 1-2 nodes must be buried in river sand during cutting, pressed firm, and watered promptly to retain moisture. Generally, roots and buds form in 1-2 weeks. When the plant grows to 20-30 cm, it can be transplanted. Transplanting can be done throughout the year except in severe winter. In addition, during the growing season, densely growing clumping plants can be divided along the rhizomes for propagation by division.
Periwinkle cultivation requires loose, humus-rich sandy loam. For potting, a mixture of leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand can be used as the substrate. Multiple plants can be planted in each pot at the same time, and timely pinching can quickly form a shape. To promote more branching, pinch several times during the growing season; mounding soil at the nodes can produce more adventitious roots and promote vine growth. Because it grows quickly, it needs sufficient watering during the growing season, and liquid fertilizer should be applied 1-3 times a month to ensure rapid growth of branches and vines and rich, glossy green leaves. It is suitable for a brightly lit environment. But in midsummer, avoid direct strong light to prevent scorching the leaves; appropriate shading is necessary, and a semi-shaded environment is best. Although periwinkle growth prefers warmth, it is also cold-tolerant, and in winter it can withstand low temperatures of about 0°C.
Periwinkle is an excellent groundcover plant material and can be planted in masses at forest edges or under forests. It is especially suitable for planting at building foundations and on slopes, helping to conserve soil and water.