How to fertilize Pachystachys lutea? Master two key points and four techniques

Although Pachystachys lutea arrived in China relatively late, it quickly became extremely popular because it has many uses, so more and more people are growing it. To grow it well, you need to understand its cultivation methods, and fertilization is a very important part of that. How do you fertilize Pachystachys lutea? Let me tell you the specific fertilization techniques.

How to fertilize Pachystachys lutea

(1) Key point one: the concentration of fertilizer must not be too high. It is better to apply it more times than to burn the roots with too high a concentration. This is also what we often call the technique of "light fertilizer, frequent application." Each time you fertilize, you can use dilute fertilizer water, letting the fertilizer be diluted before use.

(2) Key point two: fertilization should be adjusted according to growth conditions and climate changes. Temperature in particular has a great influence on fertilization, because it affects the growth of Pachystachys lutea, so fertilization cannot be done the same way all year round. This is very similar to watering.

Fertilization methods for Pachystachys lutea

1. Vigorous growth period

When fertilizing during this period, generally once every 15-20 days, remember that the concentration must not be too high. So when is the vigorous growth period of Pachystachys lutea? When the temperature is 16-28 degrees, it is the period of fastest growth, usually in April-May and September-October.

2. Before the flowering period

After flower bud differentiation, the flower buds begin to develop. This process is also a key stage in flower bud formation. When fertilizing, we can add a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. Its role is to make the flower color more vivid. After the flowers bloom, we can also increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to make the number of flowers greater.

3. Summer fertilization

Generally speaking, when the temperature is above 30 degrees, the growth of Pachystachys lutea begins to slow down, and when the temperature is above 35 degrees, its growth basically stops. How should Pachystachys lutea be fertilized at this time? At this point, fertilization should be stopped, and cooling measures should be taken promptly to help Pachystachys lutea get through midsummer.

4. Late autumn and winter

In winter, not only should good insulation be provided, but fertilization should also be stopped, because when the temperature is below 10 degrees, Pachystachys lutea enters dormancy and has very low demand for fertilizer. However, in late autumn we can apply one additional application of compound fertilizer. Its role is to improve the cold resistance of Pachystachys lutea and reduce the possibility of frost damage in winter.

Precautions for fertilizing Pachystachys lutea

1. When fertilizing, the fertilizer water must not be sprinkled directly on the leaves of Pachystachys lutea, otherwise it may cause pests and diseases. It is a completely different concept from spraying water, and gardening enthusiasts must pay attention to this point when fertilizing.

2. When we find signs of yellowing in the leaves of Pachystachys lutea, we can add some green vitriol, that is, ferrous sulfate, to the fertilizer water. It can improve the yellowing of leaves, but this is only a technique. The real cause of the yellowing still needs to be investigated by gardening enthusiasts based on their usual care habits.

Cultivation key points for Pachystachys lutea

Pachystachys lutea is native to tropical America and Peru. It is a perennial small shrub that likes high temperatures and is drought tolerant. If managed properly in winter, Pachystachys lutea can still maintain normal flowering, but it does not bear fruit. So what issues need attention during the cultivation of Pachystachys lutea?

Pachystachys lutea

1. Soil mixing

The potting soil should be fertile, loose, and well aerated, and heavy clay soil should be avoided. You can mix 5 parts leaf mold, 3 parts garden soil, 1 part river sand, and 1 part decomposed organic fertilizer evenly as the growing medium.

2. Temperature

Its optimum growth temperature is 20°C to 28°C. In summer, when the temperature reaches above 30°C, you should create a relatively cool environment for it by building shade and spraying water around it. During overwintering, it requires the indoor temperature to be no lower than 10°C, otherwise the plant's leaves can easily all drop off. Below 4°C to 5°C, it will freeze to death. Plants placed indoors in winter are best warmed with an electric heater. If low temperatures last too long, it can also cause root rot and plant death. For greenhouse cultivation, if you want it to bloom in winter, the daytime temperature should be kept at around 25°C and the nighttime temperature should be kept above 15°C.

3. Light

In spring and autumn, it can receive full sunlight. In midsummer, it should be shaded by 30% to 40%, or it is enough to maintain about half a day of light in the morning and evening. But in winter, it is best to place it by a south-facing window that is warm and has sufficient light.

Pay attention to appropriate light. It should not be exposed to the scorching sun, nor should it go without light for a long time, otherwise its growth and flowering will be adversely affected. In spring, autumn, and winter, letting the plant receive sufficient light can make it grow stronger and reduce diseases. In an overly shady environment, it will become leggy, and flowering will be late and sparse. Indoors, it should be placed by a window with sufficient light. After summer begins, it should be kept in a semi-shady place, especially young seedlings, which should avoid direct strong light, and ventilation should be noted.

4. Watering

During the growing season, not only should the potting soil always be kept moist, but relatively high air humidity is also required. However, there must be no standing water in the potting soil. In spring and autumn, water once every 1 to 2 days. In summer, water once before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m. each day, and appropriately increase the frequency of spraying water on the leaves. In winter, just keep the potting soil slightly moist. During the plum rain season, prevent root rot from standing water. During the growing period, water thoroughly and keep the potting soil at about 80% moisture, but also prevent standing water in the pot. In summer, water before the potting soil dries out completely, and frequently spray water on the plant and around it to maintain relatively high environmental humidity.

5. Soil

You can mix 5 parts leaf mold, 3 parts garden soil, 1 part river sand, and 1 part decomposed organic fertilizer. During the growing season, loosen the soil once every half month. Every spring before taking the plant outdoors, you must repot and change the soil once.

6. Fertilization

During the growing season, apply a dilute organic fertilizer once every half month. After flower buds appear, you can add 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate to the dilute fertilizer water to meet its nutrient needs for continuous long-term flowering. When the ambient temperature is above 35°C or below 15°C, fertilization should be stopped. When applying organic fertilizer, do not let the fertilizer liquid splash onto the leaf surface, so as to avoid leaf diseases. For potted plants in northern regions, in order to avoid leaf yellowing, you can also irregularly add 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder to the fertilizer liquid. This can not only keep the leaves dark green and vigorous, but also prevent physiological yellowing of the plant. Pachystachys lutea likes fertilizer and is tolerant of fertilizer. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once every half month, but do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer alone, otherwise the stem nodes will become slender and the number of flowers will decrease. During the flowering period, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer twice more to meet the plant's fertilizer needs as it continuously forms buds and blooms. Insufficient fertilizer is often the main reason why Pachystachys lutea grows poorly and produces few and small flowers.

7. Pruning

Young seedlings that have just survived cuttings should be pinched. When the seedling is about 6 cm tall, pinch once. When the branches grow to about 4 cm, pinch again to promote branching. One month after pinching, buds can form and flowers can bloom on the new branches. Every spring, pruning should be carried out together with repotting, generally cutting off about 1/2 of the plant height. This can not only control the height and promote branching, but also prevent the lower leaves from becoming bare and affecting the ornamental value.

Whenever new shoots appear, new inflorescences will form at their tips, so timely pinching and pruning are very important for promoting abundant flowering in Pachystachys lutea. Generally, starting from the seedling stage, pinch 2-3 times to promote more branching and also control plant height. In winter, prune the plant and keep it indoors for care. In spring, prune together with repotting, which can both reduce plant height and promote more branching. After autumn begins, the plant starts to resume growth. At this time, branch pruning and shaping are needed, while strengthening light and increasing fertilizer and water to ensure the plant is symmetrical and full with lush leaves and abundant flowers.

Key points for flower management in July

 Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather ends in the Jianghuai region. The first fu begins on July 16, and the last fu ends on August 15. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Jianghuai region it is 28°C. Only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. The main contents of flower management in July are as follows:

   1. Flower cultivation

   1. Sowing

   Flower species that can be sown in July include: cineraria, Chinese primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.

   In July, you can also pick mature fruits of Japanese apricot, wild peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc., wash off the flesh, and then sow in furrows immediately, or store the washed pits in moist sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds removed from the fruit capsule can be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, which will not affect their germination rate.

   2. Cuttings

   Flower species suitable for propagation by cuttings in July include: Scutellaria indica, begonia types, coleus, Pilea cadierei, salvia, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Aster novi-belgii, purple loosestrife, Cyperus alternifolius, Boston ivy, coral plant, pepperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum chinense, Bryophyllum, pothos, etc.

   Woody flowering plant species suitable for propagation by cuttings in July include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Weigela, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne odora, gardenia, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Magnolia wilsonii, bougainvillea, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus, Pyracantha, Cordyline, Chinese hibiscus, Serissa, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum sargentii, boxwood types, fig, Magnolia liliiflora, osmanthus, azalea types, camellia, sasanqua, Salix matsudana var. tortuosa, Salix babylonica var. aureo-pendula, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.

   In addition, in July some flowering plants can also be propagated by water cuttings. These are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus, etc. To use the water cutting method for propagating flowering plants, first you need to prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick and punch holes in it to use as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttings clean, and you can put in a few pieces of charcoal for antisepsis.

   3. Grafting

   One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach or wild peach can be used as rootstock for bud grafting ornamental peach, flat peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, flowering almond, red-leaf plum, Meiren plum, etc.; cuttings of wild rose, Rosa multiflora, and 'Shisimei' can be used as rootstock for bud grafting variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa roses, etc.; potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings can be used as rootstock for approach grafting Michelia alba and Michelia figo, etc.; 2-year-old potted wintersweet seedlings can be used as rootstock for approach grafting superior wintersweet varieties; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days you can determine whether it has survived; 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the azaleas can be used as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting Belgian azalea or Western azalea; cherry seedlings can be used as rootstock for bud grafting superior cherry blossom varieties; current-year seed seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or Malus halliana and Malus spectabilis can be used as rootstock for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties; Acer palmatum seedlings can be used as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other nursery stock.

   4. Layering

   Flowering plant species suitable for layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, Campsis grandiflora, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, Weigela, Caragana, osmanthus, gardenia, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus, climbing rose, winter jasmine, etc.

   5. Division

   Ornamental plant species suitable for division in July include: hosta, blue plantain lily (Hosta ventricosa), Acorus types, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra, Tradescantia spathacea, bromeliad types, Haworthia, spider plant, Ophiopogon types, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes, sword fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc.
   
   2. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out

   1. Seed collection

   Flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis tinctoria, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus spectabilis, etc.

   Flowering plant seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, Japanese apricot, wild peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out and potting

   July is the main period for potting display flowers for the National Day period. The flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: salvia, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Impatiens hawkeri, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.

   Trees are generally not transplanted in July, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with soil balls, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, Ligustrum vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Aucuba japonica, juniper balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade structures must be built in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be shifted to normal management. Do not be careless.

   3. Flower management

   1. Watering

   For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, geranium types, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia types, sedum, kalanchoe, cactus types, Haworthia cymbiformis, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio radicans, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it can easily cause root rot and also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.

   For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris types, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dicentra spectabilis, etc., in July the aboveground stems and leaves wither and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they spend the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil not too dry.

   For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, Maranta types, Syngonium types, red (green) gem, giant taro, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Queen', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, camellia, sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but leaf spraying should also be appropriately provided, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should also be given, and do not be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Do not pour heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause plant death.

   For potted Japanese apricot stumps, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoots emerge with 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.

   In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours before and after noon. It is advisable to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out in time, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.

   2. Fertilization

   There are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilization management should be strengthened in July. First, types with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, types that bloom abundantly in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; third, types for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, azalea, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should also be applied to meet the plant's comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, dilute cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, dilute liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.

   Flower species for which fertilization should be strengthened in July include: salvia (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four o'clock flower, dragon's mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple types, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, Chloranthus, wintersweet, hibiscus, cotton rose, etc. There are many types of foliage plants, such as bromeliad types, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Maranta, giant taro, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, etc.

   In July, for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum types, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia, etc., fertilization must be stopped to prevent plant rot.

   3. Pruning and bud pinching

   Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means using the fingers to directly remove the tender terminal buds at the tips. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, wintersweet, Pyracantha, Podocarpus, Tamarix chinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, Celtis sinensis, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer triflorum, crape myrtle, Serissa, Murraya paniculata, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form beautiful crown plates or tree shapes. Bonsai plant types suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch by hand, such as Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', etc.

   For potted flower types that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, etc., the faded flowers and stalks should be removed in time, and the branches that have already flowered should be shortened as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and bloom again. For azalea, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened to form a better crown shape.

   4. Shading

   July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.

   For ornamental plants that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sunlight. Such as ferns, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus, Strelitzia, orchid types, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, pothos, pepperomia types, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Rhaphidophora, bromeliad types, Maranta types, Reineckea carnea, etc.

   For light-loving types, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, Pyracantha, jasmine, Serissa, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer triflorum, black pine, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus thunbergii, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus, bamboo, Rhapis, five-needle pine, etc., it is necessary to provide appropriate shading.

   For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.

   5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms

   In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or leaves covered with a thicker cuticle, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Abelmoschus, Livistona, Rhapis excelsa, Canary Island date palm, bromeliad types, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Aucuba japonica, etc., while it is not advisable to choose sword fern, coleus, giant taro, Syngonium, etc. In addition, in management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioning vents to prevent direct blowing on the plants, which can cause leaf tips to wither and edges to scorch.

   6. Pest and disease control

   (1) When orchid new shoots unfold leaves in July, the leaf tips are prone to infection by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.

   (2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, crabapple types, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, flowering almond, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil burial of carbofuran can be used for control, which can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.

   (3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leaf roller that harms Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Buxus sinica 'Japonica', Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Angustifolia', and Buxus sinica 'Pearl', because when this pest occurs severely it can chew all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.

   (4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the new shoot leaves of bitter orange, kumquat, jin dou, finger citron, lemon, Citrus grandis, rue, etc., and stomach poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.

   (5) The white wax scale that harms privet, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum obtusifolium, and Fraxinus chinensis has its eclosion period from late July to late August. The timing should be chosen accurately to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax scale from causing damage again the following year.

   (6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, camellia, red-leaf plum, cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.

   4. Bonsai shaping

   In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a vigorous growth period, branch injuries are prone to infection by pathogens and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and shaping. The plant types that can still be shaped are those with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and acclimated in spring or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Thujopsis, Calocedrus, Serissa, black pine, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Adina rubella, etc.

   In July, plant shaping should be careful and meticulous, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and not operating hastily or with excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to cause branches and trunks to break and endanger their survival.

   Solar terms in July: Minor Heat on July 7; Major Heat on July 22.