How to prune Rohdea japonica when it grows too tall? Prune appropriately, then propagate by cuttings and transplant to grow new branches and leaves

Rohdea japonica is a very easy-to-grow green plant. Its leaves stay green all year round, making it a great choice for placing at home. Growing plants naturally involves pruning, especially Rohdea japonica. If you don't prune Rohdea japonica, it will grow very ugly, just like a pot of weeds. So how do you prune Rohdea japonica when it grows too tall? Re-propagating by cuttings and transplanting is the best choice.

I. Pruning methods for Rohdea japonica when it grows tall

Earlier we learned about the effects and benefits of Rohdea japonica and what to do when it gets bugs. Now let's look at how to prune Rohdea japonica when it grows too tall. Rohdea japonica is a plant that will grow vigorously if you leave it alone. As the plant keeps growing, its overall shape becomes larger and larger. At this point we can cut off the branch tips, and another option is to re-propagate by cuttings.

1. Pruning the branch tips

How do you prune Rohdea japonica when it grows too tall? When the plant reaches the height we want, by cutting off the branch tips and removing the most vigorous growing point at the top, Rohdea japonica will often send out a large number of side branches and produce more leaves.

As the plant grows, a large number of old and weak leaves will inevitably appear at the lower part. So we should promptly cut off these leaves to avoid unnecessary nutrient consumption, allowing the saved nutrients to be sent in a concentrated way to the healthy, vigorous branches and leaves, so that the plant grows in better condition, with brighter green leaf color and higher ornamental value.

2. Pruning old leaves

It can be seen that in order to control the height of potted Rohdea japonica while also improving flowering and overall ornamental value, besides promptly cutting off the branch tips, we also need to prune away the useless old leaves at the lower part of the plant. More importantly, pruning should begin at the seedling stage. This not only achieves a dwarfing effect and promotes flowering, but also saves us a lot of indoor space.

II. When Rohdea japonica grows tall, it can be re-propagated by cuttings and transplanted

How do you prune Rohdea japonica when it grows too tall? This is one of the easiest green plants to grow tall. If you think it has grown too tall, you can re-propagate it by cuttings and re-transplant it. It is best to cut off the main stem and let it send out side buds again, so that it grows many secondary tillers, and after pruning the appearance will also be very attractive. This stage takes about 5-6 months. You need to do it before the weather gets hot, otherwise it will not survive easily in hot weather and will sprout more slowly.

Cutting method:

1. Select healthy branches about 10 cm long from the Rohdea japonica plant as cuttings, dig a hole in the prepared substrate, and insert the cutting into the hole in the substrate. During the cutting process, be careful to maintain relatively high air humidity and keep the temperature at around 20°C. About 25 days after cutting, Guangdong Rohdea japonica will take root.

2. Water propagation method: When using the water propagation method, select a scion about 20 cm long, insert it in a cup filled with clean water, change the water about every two days, and roots will grow in about 20 days. When the root system has grown well, it can be moved to a pot to grow.

III. Rohdea japonica is suitable for pruning and cuttings in spring

During the growth process, Rohdea japonica must be pruned in time to achieve dwarfing. While maintaining a certain plant shape and height, it is often more ornamental and practical. As for pruning Rohdea japonica, it is mostly done in spring, and generally needs to be completed before the Start of Summer.

This is because scientific and reasonable pruning of the plant during this period not only makes it easier to control the plant's growth and height, but also achieves the effect of maintaining a good plant shape through dwarfing. It will not take up too much space, and it will not affect the ornamental effect. The above is the answer to how to prune Rohdea japonica when it grows too tall. Everyone has learned it, right!

Rohdea japonica cultivation methods and precautions

1. Morphological characteristics

Leaves

Leaves 3-6, clustered from the rhizome, thickly papery, oblong, lanceolate, or oblanceolate, 15-50 cm long, 2.5-7 cm wide, apex acute, base slightly narrowed, green, with longitudinal veins obviously raised; sheath leaves lanceolate, 5-12 cm long.

Flowers

In spring and summer, a scape grows from the leaf cluster, shorter than the leaves, 2.5-4 cm long; the spike is 3-4 cm long and 1.2-1.7 cm wide; flowers numerous, clustered at the top and arranged in a short spike; with dozens of densely packed flowers; bracts ovate, membranous, shorter than the flowers, 2.5-6 mm long and 2-4 mm wide; perianth 4-5 mm long and 6 mm wide, pale yellow, lobes thick; anthers ovate, 1.4-1.6 mm long. Berry about 8 mm in diameter, red when ripe, containing 1 seed. Flowering period May-June, fruiting period September-November.

2. Growth habits

In summer, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Attention should also be paid to preventing heavy rain from drenching it, especially during the flowering period when it must not be rained on; it should be placed in a shaded, dry, ventilated place free from rain. After being brought indoors in winter, the room temperature must notfall below 12°C. If the room temperature is too low, it can easily cause the plant to suffer cold, drop leaves, and die.

For potted Rohdea japonica, it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. A soil pH of 6-6.5 can fully release the soil nutrients and effectively promote flowering and fruiting of Rohdea japonica. Repot once a year regularly. When repotting, remove rotten dead leaves and rhizomes, and use acidic soil with potassium fertilizer as the cultivation soil. After planting, place Rohdea japonica in a cool place for a few days so it can recover its vitality. It can generally be cultivated in ordinary garden soil, but slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus and loose with good water permeability is best.

During the growing period, applyabout every 20 daysonce a well-rotted liquid fertilizer; in early summer when growth is more vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer about every 10 days, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing, so as to promote better growth and make the leaf color dark green and glossy. In the vigorous flowering period of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation and help it flower and fruit better (around the Start of Summer, several old leaves on the outer part of the mature plant should be cut off to facilitate the sprouting of new buds, new leaves, and the emergence of flower scapes). In addition, the leaves need to be sprayed and washed with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves bright green and evergreen through the four seasons.

3. Geographical distribution

4. Cultivation techniques

Planting

Light and temperature

Watering and fertilizing

Shaping and pruning

5. Common knowledge on pests and diseases

Leaf spot disease

Anthracnose

Brown soft scale

Disease characteristics

[Pathogen] The pathogen is a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris pv. pelargoni of the class Eubacteria, order Eubacteriales, genus Xanthomonas, with a rounded top, rod-shaped, and a single polar flagellum. The optimum temperature for growth and development is 25-27°C, the minimum is 1°C, and the lethal temperature is 51-51.5°C.

[Disease pattern] Bacteria can spread through cuttings, contact, and splashed water droplets, and seeds may carry and spread the bacteria; in moist soil the pathogen can survive for 3 months; in greenhouse cultivation, when plants are too dense and growing rapidly, the disease is more severe; old leaves at the lower part of the plant are more severely affected, and the disease is more severe in warm, humid conditions; high nitrogen, high phosphorus, and low calcium favor disease development, while high potassium, low phosphorus, and high calcium suppress symptoms. Different species and varieties of Pelargonium differ in disease resistance. Among Pelargonium varieties, Pelargonium grandiflorum is highly resistant, Pelargonium graveolens is moderately resistant, and Pelargonium peltatum is highly susceptible. Some plants in the Geraniaceae are asymptomatic carriers.

Pest and disease control methods

6. Main varieties

Golden-edged Rohdea japonica

Silver-edged Rohdea japonica

7. Ecological value

Toxicity
The sap of Rohdea japonica is toxic, generally with the stem tissue fluid being the most toxic. If the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it can cause allergic reactions, patches, or a very itchy feeling, and scratching without care will make it itch more. Note that among plants called Rohdea japonica, there are those in the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different.
If taken internally as Chinese medicine, after an excessive oral dose, symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, drooling and loss of appetite, blurred vision, and fatigue appear after about 1 hour. In more severe cases, there may be abdominal pain and diarrhea, a feeling of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure. In severe cases, the patient may be irritable, convulsive, comatose, and have dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block, andjunctional rhythm, etc.

8. Plant culture

9. Care knowledge

Key care points for Guangdong Rohdea japonica

Key care points for Dieffenbachia

How to care for Tradescantia spathacea

Care of Dieffenbachia seguine

Other types

Introduction and Cultivation of Potted Plants (Part Three)

        Thirteen, Belgian Azalea 
        In the past, when people strolled through Lunar New Year flower markets, most only bought some peach blossoms, chrysanthemums, silver willows, and the like for vase arrangements. In recent years, with the emergence of a large number of trendy flowers, many people have become interested in those delicate and exquisite small potted flowers. Especially the Belgian azalea, spreading red and displaying green, its brilliance overshadowing other flowers, is the most captivating, and people always pray to have one during the Spring Festival.
Belgian azalea, abbreviated as West azalea. It is a new variety obtained by Dutch and Belgian experts through long-term hybridization and selection. It is said to contain the bloodline of Chinese azaleas. Because it was first propagated and promoted most extensively in Belgium, it is also called “Belgian azalea”, and is one of the most widely popular famous flowers in the world today. Its characteristics are a short and sturdy plant type, a compact crown, abundant flowers and lush leaves, mostly double and semi-double, with petal shapes including round and broad, narrow and long, backward-curling, wavy, and ruffled. Patterns include dotted red, edged, flying white, gold-sprinkled, cloud-like, and so on. Generally, a plant with a crown diameter of 25 cm can produce thirty or forty flowers, two or three times more than local azaleas. The flowers are dignified, delicate and beautiful, elegant and charming, and from the first flower to the last lasts as long as forty or fifty days. By the Chinese Valentine's Day——the Lantern Festival, its sweet smiling face can still be seen.
Originally, “in March the azaleas are red.” According to the floral calendar of China, most azaleas finish blooming before late spring. Their splendor of “a hundred kinds of red and purple competing in fragrance” often turns thousands of mountains red and embroiders the earth. But it happens to be exactly when the cuckoo bird cries most intensely, singing again and again “why not go home, why not go home”, so some poets “suspected it was blood from the mouth, dripping into flowers on the branches.” Thus the saying “the azalea weeps blood” spread widely, leading many people to regard it as a “flower of sorrow and resentment.” This has long since been unraveled by scientists. It turns out that most azaleas bloom abundantly from March to May, when cuckoo birds generally come into heat and seek mates. The inner wall of their mouths is originally red, and what they sing with open beaks is precisely a love song poured out in search of a partner. This is actually the happiest and most joyful time for the cuckoo, so to describe it as mournful is completely wrong. In recent years, with the increasing spread of science, many flower lovers have further updated their views; instead, they feel that the massed flowers of the West azalea are like a rich embroidered ball, carrying the auspicious meaning of “a full pot and a full bowl”, and therefore the West azalea sells very well in Lunar New Year flower markets. Before the 1994 Spring Festival, Guangdong Province imported 600,000 pots from abroad, each selling for forty or fifty yuan, and all entered countless households, blooming magnificently. It can truly be said, “Looking back, peach and plum have lost their color; even the hibiscus reflected beside it is no flower.”
The varieties of West azalea are extremely rich, with about more than 300 in Europe and America alone. During the flowering period, they can be distinguished by flower color and form; before and after flowering, they can be identified by observing leaf shape. In recent years, about 25 to 30 varieties have been introduced in various parts of Lingnan, while Shanghai has 40 to 50. The varieties most welcomed by the public are mostly those with red and pink flowers. For example, the red-flowered “Aurora”, “Red Kylin”, and “Crimson Hibiscus”. The white-flowered “Crown” with red edges and wavy petals, and “Dance of the Heavenly Maiden” with red petals, white edges, and ruffled petal margins, are relatively popular. But pure white varieties, because they do not suit the festive atmosphere, often have a price but no market. At present, the West azaleas imported into the Pearl River Delta before the Spring Festival are mostly propagated by cuttings and cultivated in artificial climate rooms abroad, generally having the characteristics of standardization, serialization, and intensification. After being transported to the mainland and undergoing a period of light and temperature adjustment, they can be marketed before the Spring Festival. If in the future domestic variety selection and cultivation of West azaleas catch up to advanced levels, it will save the country a sum of foreign exchange.
West azalea is a perennial woody plant, and its vitality is much stronger than that of herbaceous flowers. As long as you understand its growth habits and manage it attentively, it can continue to bloom the following year. According to observation, it has “five likes and five fears” in its life. The “five likes” are liking a warm and cool climate, acidic soil, ventilation and light, moderate dryness and moisture, and light but frequent fertilizing. The “five fears” are fearing scorching sun, severe cold, muggy heat, humidity, and heavy fertilizer. After all its flowers fade, the plant can be taken out, some old roots trimmed off, and it can be repotted into a larger clay pot with an appropriate amount of new growing medium added, watered thoroughly, and kept from scorching sunlight. After 1 month, use compound fertilizer dissolved in clear water and diluted 100 times as a top dressing to promote the sprouting of new branches. In summer, move it to a cool place to escape the heat; in winter, pay attention to cold protection; and otherwise cultivate it according to conventional methods. In this way, the West azalea can continue to be enjoyed for some time. 

        Fourteen, Cyclamen 
        Cyclamen is also known as yipin crown, rabbit flower, monk's cap flower, radish begonia, etc. It belongs to the Primulaceae family, Cyclamen genus.
Origin and habits: Cyclamen is native to southern Europe and the vicinity of the Mediterranean. It likes a gentle, humid, cool, and shaded environment, but fears excessive moisture. The cultivation site should be rich in humus and lime and have good drainage.
Morphological characteristics: Cyclamen is a perennial corm herbaceous plant. The corm is fleshy, flattened-round block-shaped or spherical, purplish-black, with dense fibrous roots at the base. Leaves grow from the top of the corm in a clustered manner, and the petioles are purplish-red. The leaves are ovate or heart-shaped, green on the surface, most with white markings, purple on the underside, and with serrated or shallow wavy notches on the margins. Flowers are solitary, nodding, with the perianth rolled upward like rabbit ears, and the pedicels are slender. Flowers come in white, pink, light purple, deep purple, orange-yellow, orange-red, and other colors, often with dark red or dark purple spots at the base. The capsule is spherical and contains many seeds. The flowering period is from autumn to spring.
Propagation techniques: Cyclamen is mainly propagated by sowing, and can also be propagated by dividing the corm. Sowing propagation can be done in spring or autumn. It is generally carried out from September to October. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water at 24°C for 12 to 24 hours, sow them in spots or insert them at a spacing of 1 to 2 cm, and cover with about 5 mm of soil. Place in a dark place at 18 to 20°C; roots will form in 2 weeks, and 1 cotyledon will emerge in 4 to 6 weeks, at which point move them into the light. Division propagation is generally carried out after the autumn dormant period. Cut the old corm into 2 to 4 pieces with a sharp knife, making sure each piece has a terminal bud, coat the cuts with plant ash, and then plant them. Water after 1 day to avoid rotting of the wounds.
Management techniques: The optimum growth temperature for Cyclamen is 15 to 25°C, and it begins to go dormant when it exceeds 30°C. In summer, when temperatures are high, it should be placed in a cool, shaded place and must not be exposed to rain. Cyclamen dislikes excessive moisture; water once every morning, pouring slowly from the edge of the pot. Do not sprinkle water directly on the leaves and the center of the plant. After the flowering period, reduce the amount of watering to once every 2 to 3 days, stop watering at the end of July, let the leaves wither and enter the dormant period, resume watering the following spring, and increase the amount of watering after new leaves grow. During the growing period of Cyclamen, apply dilute fertilizer water once a week or every 10 days. Before flowering, apply liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times intensively; stop fertilizing during the flowering period to avoid bud drop. After flowering, the fruit of Cyclamen matures from May to June. Harvest when the fruit turns from green to yellow, and store in a cool place. Generally stored at a low temperature of 2°C, it can remain able to germinate for more than 4 years.
Ornamental value: Cyclamen has a long flowering period and bright flower colors, especially blooming in winter, adding infinite spring feeling to the room. 

        Fifteen, Camellia 
        Camellia is also known as Sichuan camellia, winter-resistant, and tea flower. It belongs to the Theaceae family, Camellia genus.
Origin and habits: Camellia is native to southern and southwestern China, and is widely cultivated in Sichuan, Yunnan, Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Hunan, Anhui, and other provinces. Camellia likes warmth, humidity, and semi-shade. Places that are too cold, too hot, or too windy are all unsuitable. It fears exposure to sunlight and requires loose, well-drained, humus-rich acidic soil, with a pH value of 5.5 to 6.5 being best.
Morphological characteristics: Camellia is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The leaves are leathery, ovate, elliptic to obovate, with obtuse to acuminate tips and cuneate bases, finely serrated, dark green and glossy on the surface, arched upward on the leaf surface, and the leaf margins and tips often recurved downward. Flowers are solitary or opposite, borne in leaf axils or at the tips of branches, red, sessile, with 5 to 7 petals, round in shape. The capsule is spherical or angular.         
        Propagation techniques: Camellia can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, grafting, layering, and other methods. Sowing is generally used to breed new varieties or propagate rootstocks. After the seeds mature in autumn and winter, collect them and sow them immediately in a seedbed. At a temperature of 18 to 20°C, they will germinate in 10 to 30 days, and cultivation requires 4 to 5 years before flowering. Cuttings are carried out from April to June. Select one-year-old hard branches about 10 to 15 cm long, keep one terminal bud and one lateral bud at the upper end, attach 2 to 3 leaves, make a ring cut in the bark, and all lower leaves must be removed. The cutting medium can be sandy loam or humus soil. Place the cutting pot under a shade frame, maintain a temperature of 18 to 20°C and a relative humidity of 80% to 85%; roots will form in about 60 to 100 days, and new branches can sprout the following spring. Young shoots of the current year can also be used for cuttings, and roots will form in about 30 days. Horticultural varieties of camellia are often propagated by approach grafting. The rootstock can be seedlings of camellia, oil tea, and tea plum. In recent places, cuttings of the variant camellia white tea are often used as rootstock. The scion should preferably be 2- to 3-year-old branches about 30 to 40 cm long. Cut a 4 to 5 cm notch on the base of the scion and the root crown of the rootstock, then join the two. Approach grafting is suitable from May to June. About 100 to 120 days after grafting, the rootstock and scion can heal completely, and they can be cut away from the mother plant. Air layering is carried out from May to October. Select robust one-year-old branches, make a ring cut 1 cm wide, fill the wound with leaf mold in a plastic bag and tie it, keep moist, and roots will form in 2 months; then cut it off and pot it.
Management techniques: Camellia is sensitive to light, so avoid moving the potted plant's position relative to the light. Camellia likes fertilizer. In April after flowering, fertilizer should be supplemented to promote the sprouting of spring shoots. In June, top dressing should be applied to promote the sprouting of summer shoots and the formation of flower buds. From October to November, supplement fertilizer to improve the plant's cold resistance. Fertilizers are mainly potassium dihydrogen phosphate, decomposed bean cake water, and the like. During the growing period, Camellia should have sufficient water and humid air, and the leaves should be sprayed with water frequently. For watering, alkaline water can be used, or “alum fertilizer water” can be alternated with clear water. In summer, Camellia should be placed under a shade frame; if indoors, it should be cool and ventilated. After flowering or from September to October, the potting soil should be changed. The potting soil should be loose; the ratio is equal parts loam mixed with leaf mold or peat soil, with a small amount of river sand added.
Ornamental value: Camellia is a precious flower native to China. Its plant form is graceful, its flower form is gorgeous, and its flowering period is in early spring, so it is highly valued by the horticultural world. 

        Sixteen, Kumquat 
        Kumquat is also known as golden bullet and golden citrus. It belongs to the Rutaceae family, Fortunella genus.
Origin and habits: Kumquat is native to the warm regions of southern China. It likes humidity and coolness, is relatively cold-tolerant, drought-tolerant, and slightly shade-tolerant. It requires deep, fertile, slightly acidic soil.
Morphological characteristics: Kumquat is an evergreen shrub or small tree. The plant height can reach 3 m. Leaves are oblong-lanceolate, tapering at both ends, 4 to 9 cm long, with inconspicuous serrations at the tip. The petiole has narrow wings. Flowers are borne in leaf axils, white, with 5 petals. The fruit is small, obovate, about 3 cm long, yellow when ripe, juicy and delicious, and can be eaten with the peel.
Propagation techniques: Seedling progeny of kumquat mostly vary, varieties are prone to degeneration, and fruiting is late, so sowing propagation is generally not used. Grafting is commonly used. The rootstock is trifoliate orange or bitter orange, which can improve cold resistance. Bud grafting and branch grafting are generally used. Bud grafting is carried out from June to September. For potted plants, approach grafting is often used, and transplanting is done before budding the following year.
Management techniques: Potted kumquat requires proper water and fertilizer management. Before spring buds sprout, cut off some of last year's branches, leaving 2 to 3 buds on robust ones, and keep 3 pruned one-year-old branches per plant, which is beneficial for the sprouting of spring shoots. When new shoots grow to 15 to 20 cm, pinch off the tips to make the branches full. When the branches are fully grown, apply a quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer once, such as superphosphate, to prevent excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote flower bud differentiation and flowering and fruiting. At the end of May, the spring shoots of the current year bloom and bear fruit. During the flowering period, flowers should be thinned appropriately, and after fruit set, thin the fruit once according to tree vigor, with 2 to 3 per branch being appropriate. Cut off autumn shoots in time to prevent a second fruiting.
Ornamental value: Potted kumquat is evergreen in all four seasons, with luxuriant branches and leaves and a graceful tree shape. It blooms in summer, with jade-white flowers and fragrance spreading far. In autumn and winter, the ripe fruit is either yellow or red, dotted among the green leaves, so it can be described as green leaves and golden balls, lush and flourishing, with extremely high ornamental value. 

        Seventeen, Sago Palm 
        Cycas revoluta is also known as iron tree, phoenix-tail banana, foreign banana, and fire-avoiding banana. It belongs to the Cycadaceae family, Cycas genus, and is an evergreen tree.
Origin and habits: Native to central and southern China, India, Japan, and Indonesia, originating in East and Southeast Asia. It is widely cultivated in Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hunan, Sichuan, and other places. In North China, Northwest China, and other places, it is grown as a potted plant for indoor viewing. Cycas revoluta likes sunlight, dryness, and a well-ventilated environment. It is not cold-tolerant, likes fertilizer, prefers sandy soil, and grows slowly.
Morphological characteristics: In its place of origin, Cycas revoluta can reach 8 m tall; indoors as a potted plant it can reach 3 m. The stem is thick and cylindrical, without branches, with large leaf scars forming a fish-scale pattern. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem and are large pinnate compound leaves about 1 m long. The leaflets are linear, leathery, hard at the tip, dark green and glossy, with recurved margins. Each spring it produces 2 to 3 whorls, while old leaves fall successively. Flowers are unisexual, borne at the top of the stem, with male and female flowers on separate plants. Male flowers are arranged in a spiral, shaped like a pineapple, covered with fine hairs, fresh pale yellow when first opening, turning brown after maturity. Female flowers are larger, with many palmate scales, shaped like a flattened cylinder, gradually splitting to form a pinecone shape. Cycas revoluta rarely blooms; old plants of twenty or thirty years can bloom, hence the saying “a thousand-year iron tree blooms once”. The flowering period is from June to August.
Propagation techniques: Cycas revoluta is mainly propagated by suckers, and can also be propagated by sowing or cuttings.
Sowing propagation: From October, collect Cycas revoluta seeds or plump seeds no more than two years old, soak them in warm water at about 50°C for 24 hours, then soak them in dilute hydrochloric acid or dilute sulfuric acid for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse them clean with clear water. During soaking, change the clear water once every other day. After the seed coat has completely absorbed water, expanded, and softened, manually peel off the outer seed coat, wash off the fruit pulp, dry the seeds, and then store them well. Around December, carry out sand stratification treatment of the seeds. Because the seed coat is thick and hard, variable-temperature treatment can be used, and finally sand stratification is carried out. Use clean sandy loam, river sand, perlite, and other materials with good water retention and air permeability to make a sowing bed, with a thickness of not less than 40 cm, and water thoroughly. Sow the prepared seeds into the bed at a spacing of 5 to 20°C cm and at a depth of about 3 cm. Then cover with river sand 3 cm thick. Control the amount of watering according to the dryness of the soil in the bed and the fine sand covering. After watering, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and heat. Once a week, on a sunny morning, uncover the film to let air in once. When the soil is dry, water to keep it moist, and cover the film again at sunset in the afternoon. Generally, Cycas revoluta sand stratification takes 4 to 6 months. During this period, keep the temperature and humidity of the sand stratification, requiring an optimum temperature of 18 to 25°C and a relative humidity of 80 to 90%. Do a good job of winter insulation, which must not be lower than 12°C. In May to June of the following year, the seeds break through the shell and emerge, and in July to August they germinate and grow one true leaf.
Division propagation: Division propagation should be carried out in summer. Separate suckers from the stem of the mother plant, insert them into open ground or pots, and bury half in soil. The survival rate of division propagation can reach 80 to 90%. Suckers grow slowly, so it is best to take suckers after 3 years to separate. Suckers with small wounds are easier to establish. The stem can also be cut into 15 to 20 cm long sections and buried in sandy soil so that new buds form around the stem sections, and then they can be divided and cultivated.
Management techniques: Cycas revoluta is suitable for growing in direct sunlight or bright scattered light. In summer, it is best to provide partial shade, maintain the temperature at 15 to 20°C, and keep the soil and air relatively humid, spraying the leaf cluster frequently. This plant has no dormant period. The winter temperature should preferably be 12 to 16°C, and the plant has a considerable degree of cold resistance. From March to September, apply liquid fertilizer once a month. The cultivation medium should preferably be a mixture of equal amounts of organic soil, peat, and fine sand. Change the potting soil once every 2 to 3 years, adding new soil and base fertilizer to aid growth. In summer, liquid fertilizer can be applied several times, with ferrous sulfate solution added, which can make the leaf color even darker green. After autumn begins, reduce the amount of watering. The most common pest and disease of Cycas revoluta is scale insects damaging the leaves. First, keep ventilation good. After discovering scale insects, observe the hatching period and spray lime sulfur mixture or fluoroacetamide.
Ornamental value: Cycas revoluta leaves are majestic and spectacular, and it is often used as an excellent foliage plant, for decorating the center of courtyard flower beds and flower mounds, or for arranging large indoor venues, foyers, and entrances. The leaves can also be used in cut flowers to arrange flower baskets and wreaths. Moreover, the leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be used as medicine. 

        Eighteen, Dieffenbachia picta 
        Dieffenbachia picta belongs to the Araceae family, Dieffenbachia genus, and is the most common species in the Dieffenbachia genus.         
        Origin and habits: Native to Brazil. The minimum wintering temperature for Dieffenbachia picta in northern greenhouses must not be lower than 14°C. When the temperature drops to 7°C, the leaves drop and the plant dies (other aspects are the same as June Snow Dieffenbachia).
Morphological characteristics: Dieffenbachia picta is a perennial evergreen shrub-like herbaceous plant. The stem is stout and upright. Leaves are oblong to oblong-lanceolate, smooth at the tip, green, often clustered at the top of the stem, 15 to 30 cm long and about 15 cm wide, with irregular white or pale yellow patches and bright coloration.
The propagation, management techniques, and ornamental value of Dieffenbachia picta are the same as those of June Snow Dieffenbachia. It is worth mentioning that the sap in the leaves and stems of plants in the Dieffenbachia genus is toxic, and if it enters the mouth it will cause severe swelling and pain.