Potted rose cutting propagation method: after transplanting into pots, one pot becomes a hundred pots

The rose is a very easy flower to grow, with a very high survival rate and a relatively long blooming period, which is why it is so well loved. Previously we talked about when roses bloom, the benefits, effects and contraindications of roses, and how to grow roses. Now let's talk about rose propagation methods and precautions. There are many ways to propagate roses; they can be grown in soil, from cuttings, or from seed.

Rose propagation methods: potted after cuttings

There are many ways to propagate roses: the cutting method, the water-cutting method, soil culture, and so on, but these three methods have the highest survival rate. Mastering the cutting method well can fill your home with blooming roses. Roses have very strong vitality, which is why they have so many propagation methods. The following are the three propagation methods with the highest survival rate:

I. Ring-barking cutting propagation

(1) Among the many rose propagation methods, ring-barking cutting propagation is also a commonly used method. This method also has a relatively high survival rate, and for varieties that are not easy to root from cuttings, you can try this method. In the high-temperature, rainy season of July-August, after cutting off the faded flowers, peel off a ring of bark 3-4 mm wide at a point 2 mm below the leaf base of the 3rd and 4th leaf nodes.

(2) Shade the peeled area with leaves and branches from the same plant or another plant; it must not be exposed to direct sun. After one week, a callus will form. After 2-3 weeks, when the callus has grown into a semicircle and turned pale yellow, cut off the branch and insert it into fine sandy soil or ordinary potting soil, and place it in a semi-shaded spot. In about two weeks it will root, survive, and be able to grow normally.

II. Potting after water propagation

(1) Using the water-cutting method for roses gives a high survival rate in spring and autumn, and it is one of the rose propagation methods. Spring and autumn have warm weather, and the water temperature is easy to keep at around 15°C-25°C, which is the suitable temperature for rooting. Water that is too hot or too cold will affect rooting. In spring and autumn, collect robust, already lignified branches of the current year, cut them into sections of 2-3 nodes, cutting at a point 2 mm below the last node. For each section, it is best to use a glass jar, or a glass bottle with a larger mouth, or an opaque shallow-bottomed porcelain jar.

(2) Then use a foam plastic block as a float. Make a small hole in the foam plastic, insert the branch so that the lower end extends out 3-4 cm, and after putting it in water, place it in a semi-shaded spot.

(3) In summer, place it in a shaded area, or in a cool, ventilated spot indoors. In late autumn, to raise the water temperature, it can be placed outdoors or in a sunny spot indoors to receive full sunlight. The water must be kept clean and fresh; add or change the water once every 2—4 days, because if the water quality deteriorates it will cause rot.

(4) After about 15 days of water propagation, the branch immersed in the water forms a white callus-like growth, which means it has survived. If the branch turns black and becomes rotten, it has died. After 30 to 40 days, white small roots of varying lengths form at the lower end of the branch; at this point, take it out for planting.

(5) Before planting, first decide whether to plant in the ground or in a pot, choose the planting site, use a stick as thick as a chopstick to poke a hole, plant the rooted branch, pack coarse sand around it, fill in the soil and water thoroughly, then cover it with a plastic bag for about half a month to maintain humidity. The inserted bottle must not be placed in direct sunlight. When new shoots have grown to close to [several] cm, the plastic bag can be removed and it can receive light. After another 15—20 days it will be able to form buds and bloom. If nutrient solution is added after rooting, it becomes hydroponic culture, growing and blooming in water, which is very suitable for home cultivation; try growing it according to your conditions.

III. Seed propagation method

(1) Because rose seeds undergo dormancy, harvested seeds cannot germinate promptly and must be treated before sowing to make them germinate; they can be subjected to sand storage treatment. Put the seeds into moist sand, place them in a container, then cover with 3 cm of wet sand, keep the temperature at about 0°C for 2——3 months, and then sow.

(2) Sowing needs to be carried out when the temperature is 5°C——10°C. When sowing, you can use the spot-sowing, drill-sowing, or pot-sowing method, keeping the spacing between seeds at 3 cm. After sowing, cover the seeds with a layer of plain sand, then water thoroughly. Generally, seedlings will emerge in about 40 days after sowing. These are the rose propagation methods. Propagate as described above, and you can be sure your roses will go from one pot to a hundred pots.

IV. Propagation precautions

1. Roses are sun-loving plants and like ample sunlight; daily light must not be less than 5-6 hours, otherwise the branches and leaves will be weak, grow leggy, bloom poorly, and the flower color will be dull. Generally, it is suitable to place them in a spot with ample light, but if placed on concrete ground by tall buildings, take care to provide appropriate shade and sun protection at midday in summer.

2. Watering roses should be kept moderate, neither too dry nor too wet. In March, when new branches and leaves grow, water once every 2 days, in the morning. In April, when flower buds form, water once a day. After entering the flowering period in May, if the potting soil is too dry or too wet, it will cause flower drop. Generally, water once at around 8 a.m., and around 4 p.m. supplement with an appropriate amount of water as needed. Grasp the principle of "do not water if not dry; when watering, water thoroughly." In summer, the leaves need frequent spraying to lower the temperature. These are the rose propagation methods and precautions. Friends who are interested can go home and give it a try.

Cutting methods for potted roses: the 2 simplest cutting methods (water propagation survival rate 100%)

The rose is a very easy potted flower to grow; it can be grown not only in water but also in soil. Previously we learned how to grow roses, the benefits, effects and contraindications of roses, and rose propagation methods. Now let's look at rose cutting methods. Roses can be propagated not only by water cuttings but also by branch cuttings in soil.

I. Rose cutting methods: water cutting and soil cutting

Roses have very strong vitality. If you do cuttings well, roses can be even more beautiful than roses [of other types]. There are many cutting methods for roses, and the most common one is the water-cutting method. The water-cutting method has a very high survival rate, and after successful cutting, transplanting into pots can make the roses grow even better! This method can turn one pot of roses into a hundred pots, with flowers blooming all over the house!

II. The water-cutting method for roses

1. This is the easiest to survive among rose cutting methods. First, insert cuttings into the sponge in the bottle. The things you need to prepare are a sponge, a water bottle (any bottle will do), leafy cuttings, a needle, and scissors.

2. Cut the sponge into small pieces 3 cm high, 2 cm long, and 2 cm wide, then use a needle to make a hole along the 3 cm height direction. You can also use a red-hot steel needle to burn the hole. The size of the hole should match the thickness of the rose branch.

3. Gently insert the branch with intact leaves into the sponge block, with the insertion depth being 2/3 of the sponge's height.

4. Push the branch together with the sponge through the bottle mouth into the bottle, use chopsticks to spread the leaves out, then pour clean water into the bottle. Mineral water and cooled boiled water are best. The water depth should preferably be about 2/3 of the sponge's height, enough to submerge it. Do not let the leaves and buds be submerged in water.

5. Tear off the outer packaging of the mineral water bottle to allow light through, and place the bottle in the sun, trying to let the front of the leaves face south to improve photosynthesis. Do not put the cap on the bottle, as this helps air exchange. If the sunlight is strong, the water in the bottle can easily heat up and damage the cuttings, so it is best to shade the lower part of the bottle. The rose branch will soon be able to root.

6. For the soil for soil-cultured roses, you can choose garden soil and plant ash mixed in a 2:1 ratio. Cultivate the roses that have already rooted with the sponge into the prepared soil, and then carry out routine care.

III. The soil-cutting method for roses

1. Soil cutting is also one of the rose cutting methods, and it is also very easy to survive. First, choose branches that have already bloomed, because branches that have bloomed are more nutritious. Branches that are too old are difficult to root, so it is best not to use old branches. Prune the branch; the cut end must not be too long. The best distance from the first leaf is 1 cm-3 cm, because if the branch is too short, it cannot be inserted deep enough. If it is too long, it may bury the first leaf, which is not good for future sprouting.

2. Soak the branch in a prepared carbendazim solution for 2-3 minutes. Be careful not to soak too long, otherwise it will affect rooting. Then take out the soaked branch and let it dry.

3. For the cutting soil, you can use perlite and coconut coir mixed in a 1:1 ratio. When filling the soil, be sure to press it firm; if it is too loose, water retention will be poor and the branch will easily dry out.

4. Before cutting, dip the end in a little rooting water, then insert it into the prepared soil. Afterward, spray a fungicide about once every 4-5 days, and spray foliar fertilizer once every 2-3 days, which can promote rooting. Place the cut roses in a spot with scattered light, and they will root in about 10 days. After rooting, they can be moved into prepared flower pots and continue to be cared for.

Roses are the most common flowers in people's lives. If you happen to have a pot of roses at home, you can try taking cuttings. These are the explanations of rose cutting methods. Once you learn them, you can be sure your home will be full of blooming roses!

How to grow roses? Potted rose cultivation methods and precautions

The rose is called the king of flowers, also known as "monthly red," and belongs to the Rosaceae family. It is an evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub that blooms in all four seasons, mostly red, or pink, and occasionally white. It can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, and is also called rose. Its natural flowering period is from May to November. The flowers are large and fragrant, and it is widely used in horticultural cultivation and cut flowers. The main types of roses include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, and ground-cover roses.

Growth habits

It has strong adaptability, is not tolerant of severe cold or high temperatures, and is drought-tolerant. It is not strict about soil requirements, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter and with good drainage. The potting soil should be loose, the pot diameter appropriate, and the moisture moderate. Apply thin fertilizer frequently, remove flowers and prune branches, prevent and control pests and diseases, and repot every year. It likes sunlight, but too much direct strong light is unfavorable to flower bud development, and the petals easily scorch. It likes warmth, and the most suitable temperature for flower growth is generally 22-25°C. High summer temperatures are unfavorable for flowering.

It needs ample sunshine, air circulation, good drainage, and a wind-sheltered environment, and needs appropriate shading in midsummer. For most varieties, the most suitable temperature is 15-26°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. It is relatively cold-tolerant, and when the winter temperature is below 5°C it enters dormancy. If high summer temperatures persist above 30°C, most varieties will bloom less, quality will decline, and they will enter a semi-dormant state.

General varieties can withstand low temperatures of -15°C. It requires slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter, fertile, and loose, but it has a relatively wide adaptability to soil. The relative air humidity is preferably 75%-80%, but slightly drier or slightly moister is also acceptable. It has the characteristic of continuous flowering. It needs to maintain air circulation and be free of pollution; if ventilation is poor, it is prone to powdery mildew. Harmful gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, and fluorides, are all toxic to roses.

Propagation techniques

Mostly the cutting propagation method is used, and division and layering propagation can also be used. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable. For green shoot cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise, rooting is difficult. Winter cuttings are generally carried out in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel; if cutting in the open field, attention must be paid to adding moisture-retention measures. Those propagated by seed are used for sexual hybrid breeding. For a few famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting propagation is used, and the rootstock should preferably be wild rose. Such as yellow-series varieties.

Management methods

Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year. Pruning can be done at the same time as transplanting. First cut off dense branches and dead branches, then cut off old and weak branches, leaving 2-3 outward-growing buds so that they spread in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thinning pruning should be carried out. After each batch of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the faded flower so that it does not set seed and consume nutrients, retain the substantial middle and lower parts of the branch, and promote early new branch growth and reblooming. Roses like a heavy application of base fertilizer before flowering and a topdressing of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen the seedlings and promote flowers. Roses have strict water requirements and cannot be too wet or too dry; too dry causes withering, and too wet damages the roots and causes leaf drop.

1. Flowering period control

The rose is also called "monthly red," with a natural flowering period from May to November, blooming continuously. However, controlling the flowering period of roses during the Olympics is still very important, especially for potted roses and cut-flower roses. The flowering period must be well controlled to successfully complete the temporary flower display tasks at various venues and stadiums during the Olympics and the fresh cut flower supply tasks.

In actual work, analyze specific situations individually. For ground-planted roses, according to their geographical location, while ensuring continuous flowering, make them bloom more and bloom well from August 8 to 24. The following methods are for reference: around June 20, prune all faded flowers and part of the already fully bloomed flower branches of ground-planted roses by 50%, cutting to the round bud position at the mature middle part of the flower branch. Their ornamental flowering period is about August 1 to 15; around June 30, prune all faded flowers and all flower branches after full bloom by the above method. Their ornamental flowering period is about August 10 to 25; after June 30, prune faded flowers at any time to let them bloom naturally. For potted roses and cut-flower roses, calculate the date of flower use well, and about 45 days before flower use, carry out comprehensive branch pruning.

Fertilizer and water management: in the above pruning situations, scientific fertilizer and water management should be combined with plant growth vigor. After the plant is pruned, when the new generation of buds does not sprout, spray the leaves with 0.2% urea once every 5 or 6 days, which can promote new bud sprouting; if the plant grows quickly and new branches grow rapidly beyond the planned range, controlling water supply can delay growth. During water control, after the branches and leaves wilt, spray water promptly, with recovery within 1 hour as the critical point. Water is the carrier of various enzymes in the plant body. If water supply is insufficient, enzyme activity decreases, metabolism slows, and thus plant growth slows. If new branches bud later than planned, at this time spray the leaves with 0.2% monopotassium phosphate once every 5 or 6 days, and the flower buds will grow rapidly. The rose flowering period consumes a large amount of water and internal nutrients, so the water supply must be sufficient.

2. Flowering conditions

① Sunshine must be long. The place where roses are planted must be both ventilated and able to receive more than half a day of sunlight. This is the primary condition for them to bloom profusely like brocade. If placed in a half-shaded, half-sunny spot or a shaded spot with insufficient light, they can bloom at most only in spring and autumn in a year. Therefore, families whose living conditions cannot meet the light requirements are best not to grow roses and instead grow shade-loving flowers and plants.

② Prune often. Although the sunlight conditions may be good, if roses are not pruned for a long time, they will not grow well either. The pruning method is: after December each year, when the rose leaves fall, carry out one pruning. The retained branches should be about 15 cm high, and the pruning point should be about 1 cm above an outward-extending leaf bud, and at the same time remove side branches, diseased branches, and inward-growing branches. After May, each time a round of flowers finishes blooming, cut off 2/3 or 1/2 of that flower-bearing branch, so there will be more opportunities for regenerated flower buds. If you want the flowers to be larger, you can also remove part of the buds when there are many, which both concentrates nutrients and achieves the purpose of extending the flowering period and having them open in batches.

③ Fertilize frequently and promptly. Generally, newly planted or transplanted potted roses can be cultivated with humus-rich, loose loess, preferably mixed with 1/4 rice husk ash or a little broad bean hull, bean cake, or chicken and pigeon manure, so that the roses can continuously absorb various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium from the soil. If old potted roses need repotting, base fertilizer can also be applied as above; if not repotting, scrape open the soil surface 2-3 cm and work in some fresh fish offal or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as base fertilizer. This is best done in January-February when the roses are dormant. In this way, the fertilizer will gradually ferment into fertilizer liquid and seep into the roots with rain or irrigation water, achieving good results. After May is the peak growth season for roses. Every 10 days, apply topdressing once. You can use fully fermented fishy juice or vegetable leaf juice mixed with fertilizer and water in a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water, and stop fertilizing in November. If you can do as required above, you can make roses meet you every month. Roses are by nature averse to heat; they grow best at 20-25°C; above 30 degrees, growth becomes difficult. If you handle fertilization well, you can overcome their weakness of fearing high summer temperatures.

④ Repotting. Roses do not need to be repotted or have their pots changed every year. If moving from a small pot to a large pot, it can be done in any of the four seasons.

Early spring management

In early spring, rose roots begin to spread in the soil. At this time, the most important care task is pruning. In warm regions, it is in late February; in colder northern regions, pruning should be carried out in March-April. Pruning is roughly cutting off about 1/3 of the plant height. First remove weak branches, diseased branches, and dead branches. The new branches the plant produced in 2011 are the most vigorous, so choose such main branches and keep 2-3, at most 5. According to the plant's original growth situation, generally prune with branch shears at about 50 cm above the ground, at a point 1 cm above a robust bud. A so-called robust bud is one that has not yet sprouted, is plump, and has already bulged. In order not to let buds grow into overly dense branches, choose and retain robust buds on the outer upper side of the plant. In addition, pruning should be done at a plump part of the branch. When using shears, a "click" sound means it is a plump part. If the cut feels soft, cut further down to a hard place. The aging part of the plant's branching node is rough and has a protruding swelling, with no robust buds at all in between, so it should also be cut off.

The middle part of 2-3 year old main branches is where new buds frequently appear, so when pruning, just leave 10-20 cm. Generally, if you want more flowers in the flowering period, do light pruning. If you want the flowers to bloom well in the flowering period and do not seek many flowers, do heavy pruning. In addition, for plants with poor growth, you should resolutely do heavy pruning, because such plants have poor root development, and if the crown is too large, it easily causes insufficient nutrient supply. When pruning, it is best to also do one high-concentration disinfection, which has a significant effect on preventing pests and diseases.

To make the pruned branches slant outward, they can be fixed with supports (wooden sticks, etc.) to make the tree shape balanced and beautiful and to avoid branches and leaves rubbing against each other when the wind blows. The branches sent out from the lower buds of slanted branches are more robust, and the flowers are also more abundant, so attention should be paid to protecting them.

After Awakening of Insects, insects wake from hibernation one after another and begin to move. At this time, dissolve 10 ml of fenitrothion (insecticide) and 20 g of wettable sulfur powder used for powdery mildew in 10 liters of water, and spray the plant with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Because roses have not yet grown leaves at this time, there is no need to worry about phytotoxicity.

About 20 days after pruning, the buds begin to sprout. Among them, weak small buds are often naturally eliminated during the sprouting process. To make the flowers bloom well, retain buds according to the thickness of the main branch: retain 3-4 buds on thick branches, and 1-2 buds on pencil-thick branches, removing all the rest. In cold regions, sprouting is later, so bud removal can be delayed.

If base fertilizer was applied in December, no topdressing is needed in early spring. When buds sprout, scatter an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer around the roots to promote budding. After the buds emerge, on clear days if the ground surface is dry, water in the morning or before noon so as not to let the ground surface freeze.

Summer management

Once the peak flowering period of potted roses has passed, they enter the hot and humid summer, and are mostly in a dormant or semi-dormant state. Strengthening summer management of potted roses and carrying out rejuvenation care can break the dormancy period and keep them blooming continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are:

1. Shading and ventilation. Potted roses have limited soil, and in high-temperature weather it easily heats up and dries out, so roses must be shaded and cooled. It is best to place the potted flowers from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in a ventilated spot under trees in the yard or under a trellis, so that the potted flowers receive scattered light and create suitable environmental conditions for roses to grow and bloom.

2. More fertilizer and water. Roses bloom many times and need sufficient nutrients and water to ensure vigorous growth. Entering summer, their evaporation and consumption are both high, and growth is rapid. During the flowering period, apply thin fertilizer once every 10 days. You can also soak bean cake and poultry manure in water, and after sealed fermentation, mix with water as topdressing, so that the plant has abundant flowers and lush leaves and breaks the summer dormancy state of roses. For watering, it is best to use sun-warmed water to reduce the temperature difference between the potting soil and the water. If too-cold water is used, it will stimulate the root system and affect the plant's normal development.

3. Spray more water. In summer, in addition to appropriate shading, more water should be sprayed. It is best to spray once in the morning and once in the afternoon to create a humid environment and promote the growth of flowers and leaves.

4. Thinning branches and pruning. After roses bloom, they should be cut below the 3rd compound leaf under the flower to promote strong new branches and earlier flower bud formation and blooming. Weak short branches should be pruned first and pruned high; robust branches should be pruned later and pruned short, to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and promote uniform flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed one half, to avoid delayed axillary bud sprouting. In addition, each round should not retain too many flowers; for potted roses, 3-5 flowers are appropriate. Retaining too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, makes the flowers small, and affects the next round of flowers.

5. Loosen the soil and weed. Along with clearing weeds on the pot surface, you can use a fine wire rake to gently break the surface layer around the flower pot to enhance the looseness and aeration of the potting soil and promote normal root growth.

6. Prevent and control pests and diseases. The place where flower pots are placed should often be sprayed with 15% quicklime water or carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution for sterilization. July-August, the rainy season with high temperatures, is a high-incidence period for leaf spot and powdery mildew. You can spray with 0.3-0.5 degree Baume lime sulfur mixture once a week, for a total of 2-3 sprays. In June-July, if longhorn beetle larvae are found causing damage, the branch tips should be cut off immediately. If other leaf-eating pests are found, immediately spray 800-fold monocrotophos pesticide for control, which can kill eggs and larvae.