What to do when the leaves of the fuchsia turn yellow? Get the light, water, fertilizer and repotting timing right

As for the fuchsia, everyone should have seen it; its flowers are shaped like lanterns, and also like upside-down bells, so it is also called the "upside-down golden bell." Although the beauty of the fuchsia lies mainly in its flowers, when its leaves turn yellow and develop problems, it also affects its looks. So, what should you do when the leaves of the fuchsia turn yellow and soft? On this, the editor has summarized 5 causes; follow the editor to analyze them one by one.

1. When the fuchsia's leaves turn yellow, find the cause

As a common and beautiful flowering plant, the fuchsia is not difficult to grow, but there are many beginners, and they often make mistakes with light, watering and fertilizing, and then start panicking blindly as soon as the leaves turn yellow! Flower lovers must be very worried about this phenomenon, but don't worry; as long as we find the cause and take good remedial measures, even if the fuchsia's leaves turn yellow, it can still be saved.

2. Causes of yellowing and softening fuchsia leaves and remedies

1. Sudden environmental change

As for the causes of yellowing fuchsia leaves, the first thing everyone thinks of should be environmental problems. Nowadays, many people buy fuchsias online, but a fuchsia bought online may have a greatly changed growing environment all at once and be unable to adapt for a while, thus showing symptoms of yellow leaves.

Remedy: Very simple; ask the seller about the fuchsia's previous growing environment, then change the environment at home until the fuchsia fully adapts. After normal care for a period of time, the plant's leaves will recover.

2. Too much light

The fuchsia likes light, and needs sufficient light during growth, but once the light is too strong, it will be scorched, thus showing yellow leaves and even leaf drop.

Remedy: Immediately move the plant to a well-ventilated place with bright, indirect light for care. Do not water at first; after a few hours, water moderately. After careful care for a period of time, the plant will return to health.

3. Improper watering

The fuchsia likes a moist environment, and during growth we need to water it often. But watering is a skill, and for beginners it is hard to judge the right amount, so they often water too much or too little, and both are causes of yellowing fuchsia leaves.

① Too much watering: Water accumulating in the pot will cause the fuchsia's roots to rot, and the external sign is yellow leaves. Remedy: Stop watering, take the fuchsia out of the pot, cut off the rotten roots, replace the potting soil, and replant.

② Too little watering: The evaporation of water from the leaves exceeds absorption, causing water supply to fall short of demand, which also causes leaves to turn yellow. Remedy: Water moderately, but not too much, following the principle of "water when dry, stop when wet."

③ Humidity problem: In the north, the weather is very dry, and with heating at home in winter, the air is even drier. Growing in such an environment, yellowing fuchsia leaves easily appear. Remedy: Often spray and wash the leaves with warm water, and increase the indoor air humidity. For the leaf tips, you can put a plastic bag over the plant to raise humidity, and uncover it in the morning.

4. Improper fertilizing

Having discussed the water problem, let's talk about fertilizing, which is also one of the causes of yellowing fuchsia leaves. It is understood that whether too much or too little fertilizer is applied, it can cause leaves to turn yellow.

① Too much fertilizer: Especially when too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied while phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are lacking, leaves easily turn yellow. Remedy: Stop fertilizing immediately, increase the amount of watering so the fertilizer flows out through the drainage holes, or immediately repot, remove part of the old soil, replace it with new soil, and replant the plant.

② Insufficient fertilizer: Forgetting to fertilize, or not applying nitrogen fertilizer or changing the potting soil for a long time, leads to a lack of nitrogen nutrition in the soil, which causes thin, weak branches and leaves and thin, yellow leaves. Remedy: Fertilize moderately; if the potting soil has not been changed for a long time, you should also repot in time, take the plant out of the pot, put it into new loose soil, and replant it well.

5. Soil tending alkaline

If the above points can be ruled out, then the yellowing fuchsia leaves may be caused by soil tending alkaline. The fuchsia likes loose, fertile, well-draining and well-aerated acidic soil. If the soil tends alkaline, it will affect the plant's growth, thus producing symptoms of yellow leaves.

Reasons for alkaline soil: Most areas in the north have soil with more salt and alkali; in addition, after the plant is grown for a period of time, the soil will also become alkaline. Remedy: Water with 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution at intervals, and alternately water with 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to change the soil's pH.

Summary: Actually, the fuchsia is not hard to grow, but because many flower lovers are beginners, symptoms of yellow leaves will inevitably appear. However, after reading the whole article, I believe everyone has a clearer idea now; when yellow leaf problems appear, just remedy them according to the methods above. On yellowing and softening fuchsia leaves, the editor will introduce this much, hoping to help everyone.

What to do when fuchsia leaves curl, pay attention to 4 points and curling leaves are nothing to fear / water and fertilizer are key

Flower lovers should be familiar with the fuchsia; it is also called the lantern flower, and is a very beautiful flowering plant. In daily life, because of its beauty, many flower lovers grow it at home to decorate the environment. But as we grow it, we find its leaves curl very easily, so what should you do when fuchsia leaves curl? On this, the editor has summarized 4 causes and attached solutions; let's take a look together.

1. When fuchsia leaves curl, find the cause

As a common indoor potted plant, the fuchsia is not difficult to grow, but because there are many beginners, they easily make the plant's leaves curl. So what should you do when fuchsia leaves curl? On this, the editor found 4 causes: too much light, too low temperature, too little watering and excessive fertilizing. Now follow the editor to look at the solutions.

2. Causes of curling fuchsia leaves and solutions

1. Too much light

When growing it indoors, many flower lovers know the fuchsia likes light, so they often put it outside to bask in the sun. Generally speaking, this is no problem, but doing so in summer is not good! Because under strong light, the fuchsia is easily scorched, thus causing a series of problems, such as curling fuchsia leaves, yellowing fuchsia leaves, and fuchsia leaf drop.

Solution: If leaf curling is caused by too much light, you should move the fuchsia to a shady place, do not water immediately, wait a while, then water it moderately, keeping the potting soil moist. After a week, place it in bright, indirect light, and after careful care for a period of time, the fuchsia leaves will recover.

2. Too low temperature

When growing fuchsia indoors, flower lovers must pay attention to temperature! Because the most suitable temperature for the fuchsia is 15-25°C; once the temperature exceeds 30°C, it will scorch the leaves and cause yellow leaves; when it is below 5°C, it will cause the fuchsia's roots to freeze, so the plant cannot absorb sufficient nutrients, causing leaves to curl.

Solution: If curling fuchsia leaves are caused by too low a temperature, you should adjust the temperature immediately; you can use an air conditioner to keep the indoor temperature at 10°C, and it can overwinter safely, and the leaves will also recover.

3. Too little watering

The fuchsia likes a moist environment, and needs sufficient water during growth; once watering is too little, causing water loss, the plant cannot grow normally, thus causing problems such as curled leaves, affecting the fuchsia's flowering yield and ornamental value, and may even cause the fuchsia to wither and die.

Solution: If water is lacking, naturally replenish it, but do not add too much at once; specifically follow the fuchsia's watering method. Simply put: follow the principle of "water when dry, stop when wet." In spring and autumn, water once every 2-5 days; in summer, water once in the morning and evening each day; in winter, water once every 10 days. Do not water too much each time; just keep the soil moist.

4. Excessive fertilizing

Besides the above points, the cause of curling fuchsia leaves may also be excessive fertilizing. The fuchsia likes fertilizer, and sufficient nutrients can keep it blooming continuously, but no matter how much it likes it, there is a limit; once too much fertilizer is applied, it will cause fertilizer damage, leaving the leaves with insufficient nutrients and causing curling, yellowing, and other conditions, and may even cause the whole plant to die.

Solution: If you find that too much fertilizer was applied, flower lovers need to flush the roots with clean water so the fertilizer flows out from the bottom of the pot; or directly replace it with new soil and replant, then master the fuchsia's fertilizing method, fertilizing once every 7-10 days during the growing season.

Growing methods for several common flowers

Growing methods for several common flowers
1. Iris
Iris is a perennial herb of the genus Iris in the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in almost all provinces and regions across the country, and also in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, shallow in the ground, spreading horizontally, yellow-brown. Leaves sword-shaped, dark green, glossy. The flower stalk rises above the leaves; flowers numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme; style branches 3, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like form, rolled back and covering the anthers; flowering period April to May. The common flower colors of this species are light purple or light blue; it is suitable for naturalistic planting, and also suitable for flower borders, flower beds, and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It likes damp, shady places, and has strong adaptability and cold resistance. When cultivated outdoors and overwintering in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil, and grows well in a moist, fertile, sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2-3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, which is beneficial for sufficient plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Dig out the rhizome and divide it, and replant each section with 1-2 buds. Seed propagation: germination after sowing takes 4-6 weeks, and it takes 2-3 years after sowing to bloom.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer; after planting, press the rhizome firmly; shallow planting is suitable, deep planting is not. In early spring, remove residual leaves, which is beneficial for new buds to sprout; during the vigorous growth period, water sufficiently, and fertilize 1-2 times a month, which can make flowers abundant and leaves lush. During the flowering period, keep the soil moist, but do not let water accumulate; after flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is beneficial for rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome is dormant, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by the larvae of the moth; they can be controlled by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution; during the growing period there are also slugs and snails, so spray with 3% limewater in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees in front of and behind farmhouses improves the environment and beautifies life; with clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes beautiful beyond description.
In the courtyard, plant one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees as solitary or paired plantings; this is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement. In damp shady spots by the wall, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as butterfly flower) and begonia, which will grow well without fine management; for potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and Chinese rose are more suitable; on the sunny side, plant sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and salvia, and sufficient sunlight will make them grow better; on the roof, cactus and golden-edged lotus also grow well even without care for a long time; where shade is needed, you might as well plant a few grapes, morning glories, or Boston ivy by the window or hedge; even indoors, you can place a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern and orchids on the desk or tea table, and the farm courtyard will become colorful and full of vitality!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant of the family Asteraceae, with soft hairs densely covering the whole plant. The leaves are in whorls of three, forming a triangle, and the leaves resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are gorgeous and rich, including blue flowers rarely seen indoors; and the flowering period is long, about 6 months of blooming time, making it an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and "May 1" Labor Day, and a representative flower of winter and spring. But to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering, it is not easy; you must master the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation.
Sowing time: Generally choose mid-August. Cineraria likes a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot, high temperatures; the suitable growth temperature is 15°C-20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed, or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce the radiant heat of the sun.
Seedling water control: Mainly by spraying water mist to lower the temperature of the seedbed and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; the seedbed soil must not be too dry, nor too wet. If too dry, the seedlings wilt and are hard to recover; if too wet, plus the seedlings being in a high-temperature period, they easily suffer damping-off, leading to a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of culture soil: Cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and well drained, with a pH of 6.5-7.5 being more suitable. When preparing the culture soil for sowing, note that unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess, and fine sand should be mixed at 3:1:1 and sieved, and no fertilizer should be added, because culture soil prepared this way is beneficial for seed germination and growth. Overly sticky culture soil cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the seedling's fibrous roots, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The culture soil after pricking out can be the same as the sowing culture soil, to harden the seedlings. When potting up, uniformly put soybean cake, bone meal, or superphosphate into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake, and fine sand mixed at 3:2:2:1:1 to prepare the culture soil, to ensure a sufficient supply of nutrients for the plant. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed, and sun-dried; rapeseed cake must be crushed, and after full stirring and mixing, sieved before it can be used as the culture soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria likes a cool climate, avoids cold in winter and high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintaining above 10°C, and often keeping the room temperature around 15°C, so it can grow well; in summer, place the sowing box under a shade shed, or open a sowing bed under the shade shed, and watering before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m. is more suitable; absolutely do not water at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating cineraria. If too dry, it easily keeps the cineraria leaves in a wilted state, which is bad for leaf growth, easily makes leaves yellow, and also easily produces red spiders and aphids. If watered too much and indoor humidity is too high, it easily causes root, main stem, and leaf rot, and also easily produces aphids; if in addition the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases easily occur.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as beauty flower and spring-filled garden, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower of the genus Papaver in the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm; the stem is slender, the branches are thin and weak; the leaves are alternate, the leaf blades are irregularly pinnately lobed, with serrated edges; the whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the top of branches, with long pedicels; the flower buds droop, and when the flowers open they immediately straighten up. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. Corn poppy flower colors are extremely rich and gorgeous, including vermilion, ink purple, bright pink, snow white, triple color, etc. The flowers last only 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are abundant and open one after another. The flowering period is May to June; the capsule is spherical, the fruit ripening period is July, and the seeds are very small.
The corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold-resistant and suitable for sufficient light and a cool climate in spring, and cannot tolerate severe heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flower bed plots in early winter. It has no strict requirements for soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm; after sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the ground surface has just thawed; after emergence, gradually remove the plastic film. The corn poppy is a taproot flower; the roots are fine, long, and deep, with few lateral roots. At the seedling stage, the root length often exceeds the plant height by about 1 time, so it cannot be transplanted. If transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is also very low. When drill sowing produces relatively dense seedlings, thin them two or three times at intervals, keeping a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. The corn poppy has low requirements for water and fertilizer, but avoids heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil water accumulation.
The corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders, and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and moved out in late April for use as a "May 1" holiday flower. Home flower growing can be done on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press it level, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just enough that the seeds cannot be seen, and after sowing, soak the pot to water it. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, finally keeping 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim, to prevent the plants from being slender and lodging. Keep sufficient light and fresh ambient air, with night temperatures not lower than 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging; then they can bloom in March, until "May 1."
The corn poppy and the opium poppy belong to the same family, not only looking similar but also having the same habits. It is just that the opium poppy's plant shape and fruit are larger, and the whole plant is covered, while the corn poppy is smaller and the whole plant is sparsely hairy. But the corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium; in fact, although the corn poppy has milky sap in its body, its components do not contain opium tincture. Its flowers can be made into a gargle, which has an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has the effect of relieving pain and stopping diarrhea. On a warm sunny spring day, patches of corn poppies in the courtyard and green spaces compete to bloom, like rosy clouds and also like silk handkerchiefs; when the breeze blows, both people and flowers feel as if floating.
4. Calceolaria
Calceolaria is a herbaceous plant of the genus Calceolaria in the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, milky white, orange-red, dark brown, etc., and the flowers are dotted with colored spots and markings, very cute, and are often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and the flowering period under greenhouse cultivation is March to April.
Calceolaria is native to the Mexico and Chile area. It likes cool, humid conditions, and can grow at 3°C to 6°C indoors in winter. During the growing period, relatively high air humidity needs to be maintained; pay attention to ventilation, and sufficient light is beneficial for the plant to bloom.
Ventilation and shading: Calceolaria likes cool conditions, and the suitable growth temperature is around 10°C. If during the growing period the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly, and the potting soil is too wet plus stuffy and hot, it will cause the plant's stem base to rot leaves. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated, cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until the seeds mature in May to June, ventilation work should be done even better, and shade at noon, which is beneficial for the seeds to develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing: Calceolaria likes a warm, humid environment, but avoids overly wet potting soil and too much watering at flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry; if in a greenhouse, often spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. Do not water directly onto the plant; if water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times); at the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. When fertilizing, do not let fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, to avoid rotting the heart and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Calceolaria is generally propagated by sowing; when seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high-temperature period when the weather turns cool, that is, in August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during the high-temperature period. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect it, put it into a shallow pot, fill with enough water by the soaking method, and then sow. Calceolaria seeds are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder grains. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, put the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand, so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not make it too dense, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it is also fine not to cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place, keep the temperature at around 20°C, and emergence can occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and let them gradually receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to around 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted; when they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the culture soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. In November to December, they can be potted in large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and cockscomb amaranth, is named because the inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30-50 cm. The stem is erect, the upper part of the stem is flat, green or red. Leaves alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or lanceolate, tapering at the tip, entire, with petioles. The spike is terminal; the flower axis is flat and fleshy, in the shape of a cockscomb, yellow, white, or red-purple, with a velvety luster. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-seed weight of 0.85 grams. Used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted; it is also fairly good as a cut flower, and the flower arrangement time can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely hen-and-chickens cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden plume cockscomb, and phoenix-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20-30 cm), medium-stem types (40-60 cm), and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are differences between early-flowering and late-flowering. The colors range from extremely pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow, brown yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange red to purple red, and there are also mixed colors such as speckled gold and Er Qiao with yellow and red series interspersed.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes a hot and dry climate, fears waterlogging, grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, avoids sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-breathable soil, with smaller inflorescences. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: Sow in the open-field seedbed in spring from March to April. When sowing, do not cover with soil; after covering with grass, water, and keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5-10 cm, plant out or pot up. Do not fertilize at the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches will grow robustly and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb forms, you can apply thin fertilizer to promote its growth. Seeds easily vary, so seed selection should be carefully done every year when saving seeds.
Cockscomb can regulate the flowering period by controlling the sowing time. Generally, sowing can be carried out from March to June; sow according to the need for flowers, to meet the need for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes a warm, dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict requirements for soil; it can generally be grown in ordinary soil courtyards. It is a new way to develop courtyard economy at present, and people of insight might as well give it a try.
Propagation and cultivation: By the seed propagation method, select a good plot around Qingming, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow fine and harrow evenly, level and make beds, evenly scatter the seeds on the bed surface, cover the seeds slightly, firm and water thoroughly; generally at a temperature of 15-20°C, emergence can occur in 10-15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow with a row spacing of 30 cm; when the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them with a plant spacing of 20 cm; the thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, be sure to weed and loosen the soil; when it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply a topdressing once. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves; when flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately, and strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas during the rainy season. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed, so that nutrients concentrate on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs at the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growing period, the small noctuid is likely to occur; spraying the leaf surface with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can play a controlling role.
Harvesting and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature; the flower stalks can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy; store them in bags.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called nail grass, bone-penetrating grass, golden phoenix flower, and speckled gold flower. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25-35 cm tall; the flowers are white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc., and the flower types include single and double forms. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C-30°C; sowing period: March to April or September to October
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C-32°C; flowering period: May to July, December to February.
1. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment, including temperature, light, water, growing medium, and other factors. Temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If an air conditioner or heating is used indoors to regulate the temperature, planting will not be affected by the season, but after emergence, the plant must be placed by a sunny window, so that it can receive as much sufficient sunlight as possible.
2. When planting:
Good, now get ready to start sowing. Before sowing, please confirm again: do the conditions required for seed germination and growth currently exist?
3. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil can cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1-3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (be as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the spray bottle to mist mode, and spray an appropriate amount of water on it;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic wrap to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place away from light, and remember to open it for 15-20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10-15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination; sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the germination time of the seeds, so please wait patiently.
4. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic wrap), and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and turned green, the time of exposure to direct sunlight needs to be gradually increased.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, it should be placed in all-day direct sunlight, and pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, giving water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it shows that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and water are well controlled, garden balsam will grow robustly.
5. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, thin and weak, and prone to lodging; the light time should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot as often as possible, so that the branches and leaves receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully
6. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one inch, keep the robust plants, and the rest need to "move house" - repotting
2. When repotting, be careful not to damage the fibrous roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a hole of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system fully spread out, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water moderately.
7. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, keep it somewhat drier, so that the surface soil is dry while the inside is still moist, which is better;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4-6 minutes first, to dissipate the chlorine in tap water
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-hole pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the perimeter and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.
7. Lily
The lily is a perennial root vegetable crop, and its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is advisable to choose acidic sandy loam with sufficient light, deep soil layers, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7-6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best as legumes or grasses; crop rotation should be practiced, and continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selection of good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily, and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly selects Longya lily; this variety has large heads, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30-50 g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so robust bulbs with no bottom rot, no disease spots, and no mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs, to ensure neat emergence and few infections. Planted that year, they can be harvested the following year. If the seed source is insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu in August, deep plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30-40 kg per mu of potassium sulfate three-element compound fertilizer, prepare the land and make beds, with a bed surface width of about 1 m and a bed height of 20-30 cm, so that there is no water accumulation, then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply decomposed crushed cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung oil cake, and other organic fertilizers, applying 1200-1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant; the seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lilies turn yellow, and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The planting density is 30×20 cm, the seed amount per mu is 125-150 kg, and the harvest amount one year after planting is 4-6 times the seed amount.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lilies are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 600-800 times, rotating use once every 7-10 days, spraying continuously 2-3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% dexon can be mixed into poisonous soil and evenly scattered into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, spraying once every 7-10 days.
5. Timely harvest: It can be harvested from July to August each year. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before the Beginning of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low, and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dried slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are kept whole as seed.
8. Bleeding Heart
The bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) originates from Hebei and Northeast China. It prefers a semi-shaded environment with plenty of scattered light and is relatively cold-hardy, but it fears the intense heat of midsummer and strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it is best placed under large trees in a courtyard, beneath a grape trellis, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on an east- or north-facing balcony. During its summer dormancy, it should be placed in a well-ventilated shady spot, protected from direct sunlight, and water should be sprinkled frequently on the nearby ground to raise air humidity and lower the temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold-hardy, intolerant of high temperatures. It prefers a shady, moist environment and loose, fertile, neutral soil; it grows poorly in sandy or clay soils. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and wither, and the plant enters dormancy. It goes dormant in the hot summer. It is not drought-tolerant and prefers moist, well-drained, fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in both sandy and clay soils. It dislikes direct sunlight. The flowering period is from April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering the stems and leaves gradually yellow and go dormant through summer.
Bleeding Heart propagation:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings, and seed sowing are all viable methods.
Bleeding Heart division propagation method.
This is best done in early spring in February, after the buds begin to swell but before new leaves emerge. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the young rhizomes with roots around the main rhizome, dividing them into 2 to 3 plants. Plant them in a prepared seedbed, cover with 2 to 3 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a shady spot. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in late autumn, using a method similar to early spring division. Timing is important: if the old plant's new leaves have already unfurled before division, the roots are easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the dormant period in late autumn, but the survival rate is not high. Division should only be done once every 2 to 3 years; it cannot be done every year.
The common method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground portion, remove old and rotten roots, and separate the rhizomes along their natural segments, keeping 3 to 5 buds per piece, then replant. They can bloom by May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots will develop in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings need 3 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
Bleeding Heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose a loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to sterilize with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: From June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the soil and air temperatures are relatively suitable, resulting in a high survival rate for cuttings.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all flowers have faded, select branches that are well-developed and plump in axillary buds. Remove the inflorescence, and after 7 to 10 days cut healthy branches with axillary buds on the lower portion into segments of 2 to 3 nodes each, about 10 to 15 cm long. Keep one leaf at the upper end and thin out some of the small leaflets. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, leaving the upper node with its small leaves above the soil surface. Spacing is 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or wood ash, insert into plain soil, water, and place in a shady spot. Mist the cuttings frequently, but restrict watering of the pot soil, keeping it slightly moist but not dry. Roots will form in about a month. The following spring, plant out with soil into pots. With good management, they can bloom the same year. Insert to a depth of 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, but fertilizer must never be applied. After inserting, water thoroughly and shade. Roots generally form in 30 to 40 days.
Post-cutting management:
After inserting, water thoroughly once with a fine-rose watering can so that the cuttings make close contact with the medium. Cover the bed with an arched frame, cover with plastic film, and put straw curtains on top to create a semi-shaded environment. Keep the temperature at around 25°C; if it gets too high, ventilate appropriately to cool it down. Keep the bed soil moist at all times. Roots will form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the film and straw curtains. The following spring they can be transplanted and planted out, and they will bloom that year.
Plant in March to April. Cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly done in autumn. Field-planted bleeding hearts need covering for warmth in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In the hot summer, place in semi-shade. During the rainy season, be careful to prevent water accumulation in the pot.
Alternatively, the rhizomes can be cut into segments for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground portion and separate the rhizomes along their natural segments, planting them separately. The rhizomes can also be cut into segments, each with a bud eye, inserted into sand, and once roots form, planted into pots. For seed propagation, seedlings need 3 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
Bleeding Heart seed propagation method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them promptly. Cut off the inflorescences and sun-dry them, winnow the seeds clean, and immediately broadcast them in a seedbed. Water thoroughly, and seedlings will emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to protect the seedlings through the cold. The following spring, plant out the vigorous young seedlings, with a spacing of 30 to 50 cm. Seedlings grown from seed need 3 years to bloom.
This method is generally not used by home growers; it is used by landscaping departments for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Bleeding Heart cultivation
For field planting, choose a site with higher elevation. Before planting, deeply turn the bed soil and apply well-rotted organic fertilizer. During the growing season, top-dress in conjunction with watering. In summer's high temperatures, the stems and leaves yellow and the plant enters dormancy; the withered branches can be cut away. Before the first frost, water thoroughly once to help protect against cold. For pot cultivation, use a lightweight potting mix enriched with fertilizer. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a sunny spot for care. During the growing season, provide ample fertilizer and water. Move the plant as little as possible during the flowering period to avoid flower drop that would reduce its ornamental value. After flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the faded flowers.
Bleeding Heart care
The bleeding heart is cold-hardy and shade-loving, intolerant of high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus. Generally, water once a week. During bud formation, apply 1 to 2 applications of well-rotted fertilizer water. Do not overwater; keeping the soil moist is sufficient. During the growing season, apply diluted aged urine (diluted 5 times with water) once every 2 to 3 weeks. If directly sown in a flower bed, thin the seedlings when they have 5 leaves, with a spacing of 30 cm. The following March, apply aged urine diluted 3 times with water once more, and wait for it to bloom. In July, collect the black fruits, sun-dry and thresh them to collect seeds.
Bleeding Heart pests and diseases
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. Leaf spot disease sometimes occurs; spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution for control.
For leaf spot disease, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. For pest damage, there is damage from scale insects; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.
9. Daylily
The large-flowered daylily (Hemerocallis) belongs to the Liliaceae family, genus Hemerocallis, and is a perennial herbaceous plant. It originates from China, Japan, and the Eurasian continent, and is now widely cultivated around the world. It is an excellent perennial garden flower.
The large-flowered daylily has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, withstands low temperatures, and adapts to a wide temperature range. It can be grown from south to north in China. It has strong disease resistance and wide soil adaptability; it can generally be grown in all soils except those that are overly acidic, overly alkaline, overly sandy, or overly clayey. A pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is preferable.
Propagation methods
Dividing daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to perform, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug up and replanted in divisions; alternatively, a portion of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as planting stock, while the remainder continues to grow.
Division is mostly done before sprouting in spring or after leaf drop in autumn. Spring division and transplanting can produce flower stems and blooms the same year; autumn division and transplanting will only produce flower stems and blooms the following year. When transplanting, select plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, good quality, and are free of pests and diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the tillers from the clump as planting stock. The dug-out portion must have roots. Cut apart at the shortened stem, remove old, decayed, and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, and shorten them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm) before planting. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging, dividing, and planting the seedlings as you go, minimizing root damage so that the plants establish quickly. Generally, divide once every 2 to 3 years to maintain vigorous growth.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing large quantities of planting stock, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and they can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year; plants should be vigorous, with plump fruits and no pests or diseases. Sow the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given ample base fertilizer. The bed width is 1.3 to 1.7 m, length about 30 m, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, maintaining good soil moisture. By autumn, the seedlings can be lifted and planted out. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can produce 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
Seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field for seedling production. The sowing rate is 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-row drilling. Open furrows at 30 cm row spacing, about 3 cm deep, and sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm. After the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one application of dilute human waste. For overwintering, use a small arched shed for cold protection. After spring begins, strengthen field management, and by August they can be transplanted. Seeds collected from evergreen daylilies can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature before sowing.
Bulbils: Flower buds refer to the small plants on the flower stems of the large-flowered daylily. The bulbils can be cut from the flower stems; if they are large, they can be further divided before planting. Transplanted bulbils will root within a week. Rooted bulbils can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture: Use young leaves, filaments, and flower scapes and other organs to culture into plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them on a suitable medium under appropriate conditions of temperature, humidity, light, and air to form young plantlets. The plantlets are then temporarily planted in nutrient pots, cultivated for a period into young seedlings, and then planted out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate the large-flowered daylily. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems; after about 6 months of planting, they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the flower crown, use plant growth regulators to enhance the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Large-flowered daylilies are mostly planted in early spring in March before sprouting. Although the daylily is not demanding about soil, because it will grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to choose flat land with a low water table, or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil, and deep soil layers. Newly reclaimed wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to increase its organic matter content. The land must be leveled. Because the large-flowered daylily has strong tillering ability, the spacing at planting must be maintained at 40 to 50 cm. Dig holes for planting, with triangular holes, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; too deep and tillering is slow, too shallow and tillering is fast but the plants grow spindly and weak. Generally, the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, with base fertilizer applied up to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting, cover with soil and press firm. Apply 500 to 600 kg per mu of human waste mixed with water as a spot application to establish the seedlings and ensure the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: The large-flowered daylily has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In addition to applying ample base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow or pig manure is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it promotes vigorous plant growth and larger leaves. Phosphorus promotes root growth, enhances tillering ability, helps the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhances bud formation ability, and promotes drought resistance, cold resistance, and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium is adequately supplied, the plant tissues are tough, growth is vigorous, disease resistance is strong, and in the middle and late stages it enables the flower scapes to emerge neatly and robustly, the flower buds to develop large, and the bud-forming ability to increase. Therefore, top-dressing is needed twice before and during the flowering period, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied alone. A 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray can also be applied to promote larger flowers and extend the flowering period.
Irrigation: The large-flowered daylily has relatively strong drought resistance and does not need much water during the vegetative growth period. Therefore, irrigation should be based on the water requirements of each growth and development stage of the daylily, combined with local climate, soil, and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, soil moisture should be maintained at 70% to 80% of field capacity, and watered promptly during drought. During the seedling stage, the plants are small and their water needs are also small. From the beginning of reproductive growth, water demand gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the bud stage, the soil must be kept moist at all times to prevent buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once a week. Watering should be thorough and even, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a lot of rain, so drainage and flood prevention are needed. Before winter begins, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting and during the seedling stage, timely cultivation and weeding should be carried out. During the seedling stage, cultivation should be shallow rather than deep; as the seedlings age, cultivation should be deepened. Before spring seedlings emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil; after emergence, shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times at appropriate times can achieve the dual purpose of weed control and drought prevention. Cultivation and weeding should be done when soil moisture is moderate, and can be stopped once the leaf canopy covers the ground. Promptly remove weeds from the daylily field; if weeds grow profusely, they can easily lead to pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylilies.
Weeding can be done by traditional manual weeding or by using herbicides suitable for large-flowered daylilies. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabu, is a selective pre-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oats, foxtail, goosegrass, and bermudagrass. Penoxalin, also known as pendimethalin, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent with very good pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaf weeds and certain broadleaf weeds, such as crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail, and annual bluegrass among annual grass weeds, and lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, galinsoga, and shepherd's purse among broadleaf weeds. Metolachlor, also known as dual, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, and lovegrass among annual grass weeds, and also controls some small-seeded broadleaf weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, galinsoga, and chickweed, as well as rice flatsedge; it has poor control effect on perennial weeds and most broadleaf weeds. Fluazifop-butyl is a post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment herbicide with good control of annual and perennial grass weeds, but it is ineffective against broadleaf weeds and sedges. In addition, there are also Surflan and Snapshot, among others, all of which can be used to control weeds in large-flowered daylily fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot, and leaf blight are diseases that daylilies are highly prone to. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylilies in the middle and late stages. It begins in early May, is most severe from June to July, and gradually stops only after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. The leaves initially produce a few yellow powdery spots, which gradually spread to the entire leaf, eventually causing the whole plant to die. When the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and sodium dimethyldithiocarbamate can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease during the daylily seedling stage. It begins in late March to early April, with peak incidence from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation, it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients. The leaf tips first turn yellow and wither, and finally the entire leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, and mainly damages leaves, but also damages flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward. Water-soaked small spots first appear at the middle edges of the leaves, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, and finally turn grayish-white; in severe cases the entire leaf dies. Spray with 50% carbendazim at 600 to 800 times dilution, or spray Bordeaux mixture around Qingming for control.
The main pests of daylilies are red spiders and aphids. Red spiders are tiny red mites that resemble spiders. They mainly pierce and suck sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white spots at the damaged areas. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder, etc. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on flower buds; damaged buds become thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco-lime water, etc. In addition, in trials on large-flowered daylily breeding, it was found that from May to August, snails cause relatively serious damage to large-flowered daylilies, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus, and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower scape stands elegantly upright, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing. Because the amaryllis resembles the clivia in appearance, it also has the elegant name "gentleman's red." In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave," which is quite fitting. It is now widely cultivated around the world. In addition to potted ornamental use, it is planted in open-field courtyards to form community landscapes, adding to the garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, for the convenience of flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, had amaryllis sales output value reaching 19.1 million USD in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France, and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In China, during the period from 1912 to 1949, potted ornamental amaryllis already existed in Nanjing, Shanghai, and other places. Beginning in the 1970s, it was planted around open-field courtyards in southern China as a landscape feature. In recent years, many excellent varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Sowing and division are commonly used for propagation.
Seed propagation: Use indoor pot sowing in May to June. The suitable germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management during the seedling stage. When true leaves reach 3 to 4, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain spacing. From sowing to flowering takes 3 to 4 years.
Division propagation: For potted amaryllis, do this when repotting in February to March. Before dividing, first remove old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them according to bulb size. Generally, flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, expose 1/3 of the bulb above the soil surface. Plant in March, and they bloom in April to May.
In recent years, scale cuttings, scoring, and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: Select well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the overly old outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must have a basal plate. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed at 18 to 20°C, keeping them moist. Small bulbs will form and roots will develop at the base that same year. The following spring, new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for another 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: Select bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. Soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, then cut off 1/3 of the bulb. Use a knife to gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb, place it flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18 to 22°C, and maintain relatively high air humidity. After 2 months, several small bulbs will form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. A flowering bulb with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm requires a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is such that 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the pot soil. Water sparingly at first planting; when flower scapes or leaves appear, keep the pot soil moist. During the growing season, fertilize once every half month; after the flower scape emerges, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue to supply water and fertilizer to promote robust and plump bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced-cultivated: flowering bulbs pre-treated at a low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, planted at a soil temperature of 21°C and a room temperature of 17 to 19°C, will bloom 6 weeks after planting. According to experimental reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin, and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If seeds are to be collected from amaryllis, artificial pollination should be carried out to improve the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin, they easily lose water and lose germination capacity, so they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, promptly cut off the flower scapes after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases include viral disease, spot disease, and nematode disease. Spot disease damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
The herbaceous peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers and has a cultivation history of more than 3,000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the plant clumps are full. Used for landscaping and ornamental purposes, they can lead people into a breathtaking wonderland.
The herbaceous peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m. The flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top. The flower stalk is relatively long. The flowers are divided into single-petaled and double-petaled types, and the flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose, and many other colors.
The herbaceous peony has strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. However, its heat tolerance is relatively poor, and growth stops in the hot summer. It likes sunlight, but can also grow and bloom under sparse shade. It likes moisture but fears waterlogging. It is best grown in deep, fertile, and well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
The herbaceous peony is commonly propagated by division. The best time for division is from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, and after drying in the shade until slightly wilted, take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point, and cut apart with a sharp knife. Coat the cut surface with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and cut short. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of the herbaceous peony are rapid growth and flowering after sprouting in spring; after flowering, upward growth stops and the number of leaves no longer increases. In late autumn, all aboveground stems and leaves die. The underground spindle-shaped fleshy roots accumulate ample nutrients and are deeply buried in the soil. At the root crown, dormant buds wait to sprout, breaking through the soil when spring returns the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers, and looseness and fertility. Before planting, apply ample base fertilizer; well-rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu) is preferable. Deeply turn and level the soil before planting.
2. Planting time and spacing:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumnal Equinox). For planting density, ornamental use is generally 80 cm x 70 cm, planting about 1,200 plants per mu; production use can be 60 cm x 50 cm, planting about 2,200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole is generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter. The seedling depth should be such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface. Finally, fill the hole with soil, tamp firm, and pile up a 10 cm soil mound to protect against cold, preserve soil moisture, and serve as a marker. After planting, water appropriately for overwintering depending on soil moisture conditions.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivation and weeding: In the following spring, before the herbaceous peony sprouts, level the soil mounds from the previous autumn. During the growing season, keep the soil loose and free of weeds; hoe after rain and hoe during prolonged drought.
(2) Removing side buds: In addition to the bud borne at the top of the stem, the herbaceous peony also has 3 to 6 side buds in the upper leaf axils of the stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated, making the main bud's flower large and full; if the side buds are retained, the flowers will be abundant and the ornamental period long. This can be decided as needed.
(3) Watering and top-dressing: The herbaceous peony has fleshy roots and a well-developed root system with strong drought resistance, so it generally does not need watering. If spring drought or summer drought lasts a long time, water once or twice, preferably with unpolluted river water. In winter, depending on soil moisture, one winter irrigation can also be applied. The herbaceous peony grows vigorously and has a high fertilizer demand, so it can be fertilized twice a year. Before winter begins, apply some slow-release fertilizer, such as well-rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried human waste (1500 kg/mu). Before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium phosphate (10 to 15 kg/mu). Foliar top-dressing can also be combined, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or trace element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: Mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot. The peak incidence is generally in summer and autumn when temperatures are high and humidity is high. In the early stage of the disease, spray 40% carbendazim at 800 times dilution on the leaves for control. In severe cases, spray 40% carbendazim at 500 times dilution once every 15 days; 2 to 3 applications can achieve control.
(2) Pests: Mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak outbreak period in July to August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid, mix with organic fertilizer or sand to form toxic bait, spread evenly, and then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes with strong transmissibility and cause relatively serious damage to herbaceous peonies. Symptoms include variously sized nodules on the fibrous roots, weakened plant growth, yellowing, scorching, and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes stunted and eventually dies. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m, apply evenly to the affected plot during the rainy summer period, then deep hoe 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals that mainly live within the 5 to 20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must never be applied too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. During the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, it can begin flower bud differentiation, develop flower buds, and bloom with gorgeous flowers through the frost.
The chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not demanding about climate and soil conditions. It is cultivated throughout China and can grow in both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums; their flowers do not wither after several hard frosts. At temperatures above 10°C, dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for growth. Chrysanthemums are drought-tolerant, fear waterlogging, and prefer loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate, and ample sunlight.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by division, cuttings, grafting, sowing, and many other methods. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as good variety selection and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are only used when large quantities of seedlings are needed, in nurseries. For home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply ample well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deeply turn and finely rake, and make flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, then cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick. After sowing, cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done with a fine spray to prevent surface soil crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be direct-sown; in southern China they can be sown in February, while in cold northern regions they can only be sown in early April. The seeding rate is about 0.2 kg per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, dig out the old chrysanthemum greens, expose the root crown, cut off the lateral buds that already have roots together with old roots, and transplant to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted, well-rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm in length, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist, avoid waterlogging, provide shade in high-temperature seasons, and build a plastic film arched shed for warmth and moisture retention when temperatures are lower. Generally, they can be transplanted to the field after 15 days.
Some people may like chrysanthemums in vases, so here are a few tips:
1. Before placing chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the leaves on the lower part of the stem that might be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, while the leaves quickly turn yellow; leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make chrysanthemums last longer in the vase, not only should the water be changed daily, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base that has been submerged in water. This ensures that the water-absorbing channels remain unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase also need some nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet in the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will greatly increase the possibility of bacterial growth, so at the same time, add 1 to 2 drops of bleach or a little bleaching powder to the water to effectively control bacterial growth (the dosage of bleaching powder should be adjusted according to water volume, number of flowers, and bleaching powder purity).
13. Wax Begonia
The wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It prefers well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and dislikes exposure to strong sun and rain. The leaves are alternate, ovate to oblong-ovate, with leaf colors including green and dark red. Flower colors include bright red, pink, white, etc., and it blooms in all four seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First press the pot soil firm and soak it through. Because the seeds are very small, mix them with fine sand, scatter evenly, and cover lightly with fine sand or not at all. Cover with a glass pane or film to retain moisture, and they will germinate quickly. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, transplant them into pots, and at this time a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they reach 4 to 6 cm in height, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: Take cuttings 7 to 10 cm long, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert into sandy soil. Keep the pot soil moist, and they will root quickly. This can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: The pot soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing season, moderate moisture is required, and apply composted dilute liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks. The wax begonia likes light but dislikes direct sun exposure; overly strong light easily causes leaves to curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plant grow spindly and weak, affecting flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that and it is prone to cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it enters a semi-dormant state; it should be placed in a well-ventilated, shaded spot, and fertilization should be stopped at this time. To make the plant full and bushy, pinch the growing tips multiple times during the growing season, and simultaneously apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After 1 to 2 years of cultivation, the wax begonia appears aged; it can be heavily pruned from the base to stimulate new shoots, and after pinching treatment, it can regain its original lush appearance. Repot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as lady's eardrops and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the ends of branches, with long stalks. The calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular and often droops downward. Flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white, etc. It blooms in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with diverse plant forms and flower shapes.
Fuchsia originates from South America. It prefers a mild, cool, and humid environment, with an optimal growth temperature of 10°C to 15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate beauty among flowers." Its fertilizer and water requirements vary by season; spring and autumn require relatively large amounts. In the hot summer season, fuchsia enters a semi-dormant state, and watering should be controlled to prevent root rot and death. Ventilation and cooling measures should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently, and the plant should be placed under a shade frame to ensure safe overwintering through summer. After autumn cools, it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape it at appropriate times, and promote side branch development. Generally, it blooms two to three weeks after pinching, so pinching is also commonly used to control the flowering period. The pot soil should preferably be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam; it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
Fuchsia sets seed with difficulty after flowering, so cutting propagation is usually used. It can be done throughout the year, but spring is preferable. One-year-old softwood branches root most easily. Select healthy, plump top branches with three to four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep 3 small upper leaves, and insert to a depth of one node into sandy soil. Maintain the temperature at 15°C to 20°C; spray water once daily to maintain air humidity, and roots will form after two weeks. Pot the young seedlings promptly with potting soil and pinch promptly to promote side branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning for propagation, and the surrounding old roots should be cut away to rejuvenate the plant. Taking cuttings in spring has an advantage: the young seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If the plant loses leaves in summer, it should generally be cut back immediately after the Beginning of Autumn to promote new branches, apply liquid fertilizer, and it can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has strong vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is essential. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be divided 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, and only then can one grow clivia with ease and get twice the result with half the effort; the clivia one grows will then be delightful to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by factors of water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature, and humidity. Here are some views on these six aspects:
1. Water: It is well known that plant growth is inseparable from water. The absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water. However, different plants have different water requirements, and water quality also varies from place to place. Clivia's water requirements are as follows:
Water pH: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH of around 6.5. Water pH varies from place to place. If the water is not neutral or slightly acidic, improvement should be considered. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: Tap water, river water, lake water, etc. differ in water quality. Clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated with artificially added chemicals and should usually be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Soil moisture content: The suitable moisture content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the soil moisture content is too high for a long time, the soil's air permeability will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the moisture content is too low, it will cause dehydration, leading to shriveling and withering of the roots.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water when not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving just a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean completely devoid of water, but rather that the soil moisture content has become relatively low, which is the time to water. People who grow clivia regularly often tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the soil moisture content by the sound produced. A dull sound indicates relatively high soil moisture content, so watering is not needed; conversely, a crisp sound indicates relatively low soil moisture content, so water immediately. The practice of giving just a little water is extremely harmful because most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, with very little absorbed by the roots, almost equivalent to not watering at all.
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large. Watering time is best in the morning and evening; at noon in summer, the temperature is very high, so watering is not suitable. When watering, avoid the flower heart, especially during the period when the scape is emerging and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: The roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile, water-permeable, and well-aerated soil. Therefore, the selection of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The best humus soil is oak leaves (oak tree leaves). Others such as larch, hazel, pear, and apple tree leaves are also acceptable, but pesticide factors should be noted. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%. Too high a rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of humus soil and enhance water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, rice husk charcoal (not ash), washed river sand, and furnace cinder can be added, accounting for 10% to 20%. Compacted, infertile ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, soil pH varies by region. Neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to flower, it all depends on fertilizer." Fertilizer is an essential and important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia. Clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature plants must have ample fertilizer.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined by the size, variety, growth and development status, and season of the clivia. Too much or too little fertilizer is detrimental to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will cause a lack of nutrients, slow growth of clivia, and leaves will noticeably narrow, become soft, and lose their uprightness.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: Castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds, etc., after being roasted, with a small amount of bone meal added, make very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring, September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: Sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed), etc., after full fermentation, become good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer, with quick fertilizer effect but short duration, and can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied frequently, to prevent fertilizer burn of the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide ample nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the leaves or heart of the clivia, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot. After each fertilization, use a watering can to spray clean water to rinse the leaves or heart.
The above are all organic fertilizers. Inorganic fertilizers can also be used, and they take effect faster. Clivia growth requires nutritional balance, not only the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason why people have long mostly used organic fertilizers.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for clivia photosynthesis. Ample light is needed. Indoor clivia should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light). Summer light is strong, so shading treatment is needed to prevent leaf scorch. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism; regularly adjust the light-facing angle to make the plant shape neat. If conditions permit, the direction of leaf extension should be aligned with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean. Frequently wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial for photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither too cold nor too hot.
In summer, when temperatures rise above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to cool the plants. Above 30°C with low humidity, the leaves lose their gloss; high temperatures combined with heavy watering make the leaves grow excessively long, and high temperatures can even cause "high fever disease," leading the entire plant to rot.
Below 10°C, growth and development slow down; below 5°C, growth is inhibited; below 0°C, the leaves freeze and are damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia (Clivia miniata) likes a warm, humid environment. Low ambient humidity affects the gloss of the leaves; dry air and the wind and sun of the open field cause the leaves to lose their delicate gloss and become rough with dull color. People have found that Clivia grown in flower cellars is delicate, fresh and glossy, while Clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect, and this is the reason. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow Clivia well in summer, one should follow the "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight, do not expose to the scorching sun. In summer, Clivia should be shaded from strong light all day. Using the slanting sunlight for a while each early morning is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures, do not let it dry out. The suitable temperature for Clivia in summer is 18°C-25°C; placing it indoors with air conditioning is best, and a shaded, ventilated spot on the balcony is also fine. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been left in the sun for two or three days, watering once a day after 6 p.m., and do not let the potting soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, do not fertilize. Summer is the dormancy period for Clivia, so stop fertilizing and water moderately; controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the potting soil or the fertilizer effect is strong, remove the top layer of soil from the pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, blend well and put it back in the pot; this not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also helps lower the temperature.
4. Prevent dust pollution, do not water with dirty water. The leaf surface of Clivia should be kept clean; once a week, dip a fine gauze cloth in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe the leaves. Watering with dirty water causes the roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to being grown in loose, breathable, permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH of around 7.0.
6. Prevent disease, do not let it become infected. When changing the soil or wiping the leaves, move gently to prevent the roots and leaves from being wounded and exuding sap, which can trigger infection and cause rot.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) originates from the coastal low-mountain forest zones along the southeastern Mediterranean, from Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen prefers a cool, moist environment with ample light. The suitable growing temperature is 15-20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull and the flowers easily wither; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In the hot summer regions of China, Cyclamen is then in a dormant or semi-dormant state; whereas in the Kunming region of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues to grow normally. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plant is very easily damaged and rots to death. During the seedling stage, it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. During the growing period, the relative humidity should preferably be 70%-75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The suitable temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15-18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28000-36000 Lx; if it is higher than 45000 Lx or lower than 15000 Lx, the intensity of photosynthesis drops significantly. However, it also cannot tolerate strong summer sun exposure and should be grown under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and cross-pollination is also possible. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for propagating and growing potted Cyclamen: cultivation techniques
Propagation is mostly by sowing. Sowing in September produces flowers in the winter of the following year. It can also be propagated by cutting the tuber, but this easily causes rot, so it is mostly not used. The key to cultivation is that during the summer dormancy period, a cool but not overly wet environment should be maintained. Plants from 2- to 3-year-old tubers have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often discarded. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of Cyclamen
1. Sowing. Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally divide into small tubers, so propagation is generally by sowing. However, Cyclamen is seriously harmed by viruses, and seeds often have a high virus infection rate. If the virus infection rate is >20%, the seeds must be detoxified before sowing. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1-2 minutes, then rinse them clean with water; then soak them in a 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10-20 minutes and rinse them clean; finally soak them in a 35-40°C gel solution, treat for 48 hours, rinse them clean with water, and they can be sown. The sowing date is determined according to the desired flowering time. Generally, sow 13 months before the desired flowering time; early-flowering varieties also need 8-10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done in September-October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and emerges unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85%-95%. To promote earlier and more uniform germination, seeds can be soaked and pregerminated before sowing (detoxified seeds sown immediately do not need pregermination). Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in 30°C warm water for 2-3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap them in a wet cloth for pregermination, and treat at 25°C for 1-2 days; when the seeds show slight signs of sprouting, take them out and sow. For the sowing soil, use equal parts vermiculite and fine cinder; equal parts peat soil and vermiculite; or equal parts loam, leaf mold and river sand. Sow by dibbling, with a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, and cover with 0.5 cm of soil. Keep the potting soil moist by the pot-soaking method, at 18-20°C, and germination occurs in 30-40 days. When the seedlings grow 1 true leaf, prick them out with a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil mixed in the ratio of 5 leaf mold, 3 loam and 2 river sand. When planting, keep the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, maintain moisture, place in low light during the seedling recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light and strengthen ventilation; the temperature should preferably be 15-18°C, apply appropriate topdressing, and be careful not to let the fertilizer solution touch the leaves, so as to avoid causing rot. Pot up the seedlings when they have 3-5 leaves.
2. Tuber division method. For excellent varieties of Cyclamen that set fruit poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces; each piece must have a bud eye. Coat the cut surfaces with plant ash or charcoal powder, let them dry slightly, and then they can be planted in pots. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is unattractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is very rarely used.
In recent years, various studies on the vegetative propagation of Cyclamen have been carried out internationally. Successful methods include: 1. Tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. Using leaf buds with part of the tuber tissue for cuttings; 3. In the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then cutting it vertically to make it form regenerated shoots, etc. The third method is introduced in detail below. The tuber of Cyclamen is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After cutting off the upper part, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface, thereby forming regenerated plants. By dividing one tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump and large tuber and divide it 1-2 months after flowering; the suitable time for division is May-June. First adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because if divided under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, especially hindering the formation of adventitious buds, but also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture; when the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber's thickness. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter under 4 cm) or checkerboard-shaped vertical cuts (for tubers with a diameter over 4 cm), with a depth that does not damage the root system. If making checkerboard cuts, the incision spacing is 1 cm; a tuber with a diameter of 6 cm can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the pot with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until the wound forms periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious bud growth at 20°C. During this period (about 20-30 days), the key management point is to maintain the soil moisture as it was at the time of division. At the time of division, weigh the pot together with the plant, and every 2-3 days replenish the lost water according to the weight. At 70-80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C and let them gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water supplied and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants are basically formed and can be transplanted into pots. Flowering usually occurs 11-14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot; it is simple and easy, requiring no complex techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals have consistent traits; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great prospects for application. It can be used to multiply clonal lines of excellent varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. To meet the need for flowers at different times, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing date. By making use of the seedling-stage plants' relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures and placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and flowering occurs in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shade, and placing them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June-July.
3. Use certain volatile chemicals to break or promote the dormancy of bulbs, thereby controlling the flowering period. For example, injecting or fumigating with aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, place 0.5 cm of ether and treat for 24-48 hours; Cyclamen tubers quickly break dormancy, resume growth, and flower earlier. For another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a Cyclamen tuber about to sprout can keep the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of Cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages petioles and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and stink. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil for planting must be thoroughly sterilized; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shade; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken; afterward the lesions enlarge and bear black conidia. The spores disperse and infect by means of water. Control methods: remove damaged leaves and petioles and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 50% carbendazim 500-600 times solution.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode (Heterodelaradicicola). A soil temperature of 25-30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage; they invade the roots and form root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, the lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: sterilize the soil; burn the affected plants; soaking in 50°C hot water for 10 minutes can kill the nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, petioles to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with dimethoate 1500 times solution. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with trichlorfon 1500 times solution.
17. Narcissus
In the cold winter months, narcissus can spread its verdant leaves and open elegant, fragrant flowers in a dish of clear water. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a sense of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture and carving for shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at around 15°C, with ample sunlight, frequent watering and regular water changes, it can bloom after 25-30 days of growing. But a few points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and it enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic-like leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration causes pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can plant the bulb (narcissus head) in a pot about 20-300 days before the Spring Festival; after potting, it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose leaf mold. Before planting, peel off the dried outer bulb scales of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, and add leaf mold to 3 cm from the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the leaf mold firm, then place the narcissus bulb base in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when the bulb base has grown roots, place the pot in a sunny place to grow. For watering in soil culture, pay attention to "dry then wet," that is, do not water when the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning and evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot up to 3 cm from the pot rim, then place the narcissus head with old stem scales and old roots removed into the flower pot filled with fine sand, add about 1 cm more sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, put it in a sunny place until it blooms. When growing narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time causes water shortage and affects the growth of the flower roots. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old stem scales and old roots cleanly, then place it in a narcissus bowl for growing, add water to about 1 cm at the lower bulb of the narcissus head, place in a cool place, and after the bulb base has grown roots, place it in a sunny place until flowering. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day; on the one hand this prevents water deterioration and pollution that cause root rot, and on the other hand, changing the water every day keeps the water clean and the roots grown white and beautiful.
Narcissus carving and shaping
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in graceful and beautiful forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific method is: first peel off the dried outer scales of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth trend of the buds and use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small sharp knife to gently make a horizontal cut from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the root base, then make one vertical cut on each of the left and right sides, and then peel off the scales within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines layer by layer. At the same time, dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and the pale yellow flower scape are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become deformed and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping also differ. After carving and shaping, the narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, and soaking for about 2-3 days. When the mucus has been cleaned away, take it out and cover the bulb base (root base) with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing up, put it in a narcissus bowl, add water and grow it in a cool place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the bulb base has grown to about 1 cm, place the narcissus bowl in a sunny place to grow. Remember that during the growing process the temperature should not exceed 20°C, change the water frequently, once a day, spray water frequently, 1-2 times a day, and provide frequent sunlight; the flowers cultivated in this way are luxuriant, fragrant and beautifully shaped.