Aglaonema modestum: Benefits and Uses, Broad Leaves Ideal for Both Ornamental Display and Medicinal Purposes
Gardeners are certainly familiar with Aglaonema modestum. Its leaves are broad and green, and it is extremely shade-tolerant, making it very suitable for growing indoors. In everyday life, many people grow Aglaonema modestum, mostly because it looks beautiful. However, if you think Aglaonema modestum is only good-looking, you are greatly underestimating it
Gardeners are certainly familiar with Aglaonema modestum. Its leaves are broad and green, and it is extremely shade-tolerant, making it very suitable for growing indoors. In everyday life, many people grow Aglaonema modestum, mostly because it looks beautiful. However, if you think Aglaonema modestum is only good-looking, you are greatly underestimating it, because Aglaonema modestum has many more benefits and uses, such as medicinal treatment of illness. Let us take a look together.
I. Benefits and Uses of Aglaonema modestum
1. Ornamental Value
When it comes to the uses of Aglaonema modestum, the first thing everyone thinks of is naturally its ornamental value. As shown in the picture above, the leaves of Aglaonema modestum are very broad, emerald green, and evergreen throughout the four seasons, looking extremely beautiful! Getting up in the morning and looking at the verdant Aglaonema modestum makes a person feel much more alert.
2. Beautifying the Home
Based on the extremely shade-tolerant characteristics of Aglaonema modestum, displaying it indoors for viewing can keep it verdant throughout the four seasons without fading. Paired with some interior decorations, it can add a splash of beautiful green to the home.
3. Purifying the Air
As a foliage plant, Aglaonema modestum also has the ability to purify the air. Growing it indoors not only absorbs carbon dioxide, formaldehyde and other harmful gases, but also releases the oxygen humans need, making the indoor environment fresher. In today's environment where air quality is getting worse and worse, growing a pot of Aglaonema modestum at home is absolutely a good choice.
4. Horticultural Use
Besides potting Aglaonema modestum indoors to make the home more comfortable and elegant, you can also place it in public spaces with lower light levels. Aglaonema modestum still grows normally in semi-shade, and with its verdant green leaves and lush foliage full of vitality, it is especially suitable for placement in modern buildings.
5. Medicinal Value
Besides the above points, the benefits and uses of Aglaonema modestum are also reflected in its medicinal value. It is understood that the entire plant of Aglaonema modestum can be used as medicine, with effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, and it has good results in treating heat in the blood, coughing blood, heat accumulation in the large intestine, rectal prolapse in children, snake bites, sore throat and swollen painful boils.
6. Economic Value
The cultivation method of Aglaonema modestum is not difficult, and it can be made into a foliage bonsai, displaying poetic and picturesque qualities without pruning or tying. Such a plant is naturally in demand by the public, and where there is demand there is a market, so growing Aglaonema modestum in large quantities can make money. Therefore, economic value is also one of the benefits and uses of Aglaonema modestum.
7. Cultivating Character
Growing Aglaonema modestum indoors, besides being highly ornamental and beautifying the home, can also cultivate our character and elevate our temperament. Not only that, growing Aglaonema modestum for a long time can also regulate mood, relieve stress and increase vitality. It can be said that growing Aglaonema modestum can prevent the environment from being too dull, which helps prolong the life of the grower.
Overall, Aglaonema modestum is very beautiful, whether grown at home or planted outdoors, it has a good beautifying effect. So friends who are tempted might as well grow a pot at home, and once its leaves have grown out, you can enjoy its beauty to the fullest. This is all on the benefits and uses of Aglaonema modestum, and we hope it has been helpful to everyone.
Benefits and Uses of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine': Brilliant Leaf Colors with Strong Ornamental Appeal / Medicinal Use for Clearing Heat and Detoxifying
Everyone is certainly familiar with Aglaonema, but do you know Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine'? This plant, also called Ruyi Huanghou, has brilliant leaf colors and is a beautiful foliage plant. The best way to understand a plant is to start with its benefits, so what are the benefits and uses of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine'? Next, let us take a closer look together.
I. Benefits and Uses of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine'
1. Ornamental Value
When it comes to the uses of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine', the first thing everyone thinks of is naturally its ornamental value. As shown in the picture above, Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' is elegant and graceful, noble and beautiful, with broad leaves and brilliant colors, making it highly ornamental when grown indoors. Getting up in the morning and looking at the colorful Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' makes us feel very joyful.
2. Beautifying the Home
Based on the shade-tolerant characteristics of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine', it is very suitable for indoor cultivation, and its leaf color stays unchanged throughout the four seasons, allowing for long-lasting viewing. Made into a potted plant and placed in the living room, study and other places, it has a fairly large decorative effect, and in autumn and winter, paired with its ruyi-red flowers and fruits, it looks even better. An unchanging indoor space, with the addition of a pot of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine', will become full of vitality.
3. Purifying the Air
Growing Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' indoors not only absorbs carbon dioxide, formaldehyde and other harmful gases, but also releases the oxygen humans need, making the indoor environment fresher. In particular, the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' can exert its air-purifying effect, which is very beneficial for children and the elderly with poor resistance.
4. Feng Shui Effect
The benefits of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' are not only purifying the air and beautifying the home; it also has a good feng shui effect. It is understood that in feng shui, ruyi represents wishes for everything to go as desired, everything to go smoothly, household peace and longevity for the elderly, among other auspicious feng shui meanings, so Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' can create good home feng shui and bring good luck to the family.
5. Economic Value
As a foliage plant, the cultivation method of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' is not difficult, and it looks beautiful and can be made into a foliage bonsai, displaying poetic and picturesque qualities without pruning or tying. Such a plant is naturally in demand by the public, and where there is demand there is a market, so growing Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' in large quantities can make money. Therefore, economic value is also one of the benefits and uses of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine'.
6. Medicinal Value
Besides the above points, the benefits and uses of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' are also reflected in its medicinal value. It is understood that the roots of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' can be used as medicine, either taken internally or applied externally, with effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, and it has good results in treating sore throat, snake and insect bites, heat accumulation in the large intestine, rectal prolapse in children and swollen painful boils.
Overall, Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine' is very beautiful, and growing it indoors has a good beautifying effect as well as many benefits for people. So friends who are tempted might as well grow a pot at home, and once its leaves have grown out, you can enjoy its beauty to the fullest. This is all on the benefits and uses of Aglaonema 'Lady Valentine', and we hope it has been helpful to everyone.
Rohdea japonica, Benefits and Uses of Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonicaWàn Nián QīnɡAliases: Zhan She Jian, Dong Bu Diao Cao, Tie Bian Dan, Jiu Jie Lian, Qian Nian Run, Yun, Qian Nian Yun, Wu Zhou, Wan Nian Qing Gen, Dong Bu Diao Cao, Kai Kou Jian, Bai He Che, Niu Wei Qi, Chong Tian Qi, Zhu Gen Qi, Qing Long Dan, Jiu Jie Lian, Ye Yu Jiao, Zhuang Yuan Hong, Bai Chong Lou, Tie Zong Lv, Wan Nian Fei, Bao Gu Qi, Zhu Zong Guan, Sou Shan Hu
Benefits and Uses: Clears heat and detoxifies; strengthens the heart and promotes urination; cools the blood and stops bleeding. Mainly used for sore throat; diphtheria; sores and swollen toxins; snake and insect bites; heart failure; edema and bloating; coughing blood; vomiting blood; abnormal uterine bleeding
English name
First recorded in "Lü Chan Yan Ben Cao"
Toxicity: Slightly toxic
Meridian tropism: Heart meridian, Lung meridian
Medicinal nature: Cold
Medicinal flavor: Sweet, bitter
Rohdea japonica (scientific name: Rohdea japonica) is the only species in the genus Rohdea. It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, also known as Yun, Qian Nian Yun, Kai Hou Jian, Jiu Jie Lian, Dong Bu Diao, Dong Bu Diao Cao, Tie Bian Dan, Wu Mu Du, Bai Sha Cao, Zhan She Jian, etc. It is native to southern China and Japan, and is a very popular and excellent ornamental plant with a long history of cultivation in China.
Table of Contents
1 Name and Classification
2 Variety Situation
3 Propagation and Cultivation
4 Care Knowledge
5 Related Questions
6 Pest and Disease Control
7 Uses and Culture
8 The Flower Language of Rohdea japonica
9 Brief Introduction as a Chinese Medicinal Herb
10 Rohdea japonica - Various Schools of Discussion
11 Rohdea japonica - Poisoning Symptoms
12 Rohdea japonica - Plant Identification
Name and Classification[Scientific name] Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth.
[English name] Omoto Nipponlily
[Aliases] Kai Hou Jian, Jiu Jie Lian, Dong Bu Diao, Tie Bian Dan
[Classification] Angiospermae, Monocotyledoneae, Liliales, Liliaceae, Rohdea. ==Morphology and Habits==Rohdea japonica (Figure 1)
[Morphological characteristics] Perennial evergreen herb, without aboveground stem. Rhizome thick and short, yellow-white, jointed, with most of the slender fibrous roots growing on the joints. Leaves clustered from the rhizome, thick in texture, lanceolate or band-shaped, 10-25 cm long, 2.5-5.5 cm wide, margins slightly folded inward, base gradually narrowing into a petiole-like shape, dark green above, light green below, with multiple straight parallel veins, the main vein relatively thick. In spring and summer, a scape grows from the leaf cluster, 10-20 cm long; flowers numerous, clustered at the top in a short spike; perianth 6-parted, pale greenish-white, ovate to triangular, pointed at the tip, broad at the base, fused at the lower part into a disc shape; stamens 6, sessile, anthers oblong; ovary spherical, style short, stigma 3-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red; containing 1 seed
Common varieties include:
1. Golden-edged Rohdea japonica (var. marginata).
2. Silver-edged Rohdea japonica (Var. variegata).
Others include large-leaf, fine-leaf, dwarf, and varieties with yellow-white markings, with more found in Japan and Taiwan, China.
[Origin] Rohdea japonica is native to China and Japan. It is widely distributed in China, found in East China, Central China and Southwest China, with main producing areas in Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei and other places.
[Habitat and habits] Prefers growing in damp places under forests or in grasslands.
It likes semi-shade, warm, humid and well-ventilated environments, is not drought-tolerant, and slightly cold-tolerant; avoids direct sunlight and waterlogging.
It can be cultivated in general garden soil, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus, loose and with good water permeability.
Variety Situation
Dieffenbachia
[Alias] Dumb cane.Rohdea japonica (Figure 2)
[Scientific name] Dieffenbachia maculata
[Family and genus] Araceae, Dieffenbachia.
[Morphology] Perennial evergreen herb. Stem thick and stout, mostly fleshy, plant height can reach 1 m. Leaves large and glossy, growing on the upper part of the stem, elliptic-ovate or broadly lanceolate, apex acuminate, entire, 20-50 cm long, 5-15 cm wide, both sides of the leaf dark green, inlaid with dense, irregular white, milky white, light yellow and other colored spots, streaks and patches. Common horticultural varieties include Dieffenbachia 'Camille', Dieffenbachia 'White Etna', Dieffenbachia 'Summer White' and others.
[Habits] Native to tropical America. Likes high temperature, high humidity, semi-shade or shaded environments. Not cold-tolerant, avoids strong direct light, requires loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.
[Propagation] Mainly by cuttings. In spring from April to May, cut off the small plants growing from the base of the plant, let the wound dry slightly, or dip the wound in plant ash and insert into plain sand, taking care to shade and keep moist; roots can form and be potted in about 1 month.
[Cultivation] For potting, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part river sand plus a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the growing medium. During the growing season, to keep the potting soil moist, water more frequently, preferring wet over dry, while also misting the leaves. In autumn, control water, alternating between dry and wet; in winter, keep the potting soil dry. During the growing period, fertilize generally once a month, and normally prevent direct sunlight by providing shade. Repot once a year in spring. The wintering temperature in winter must not be lower than 10°C.
[Uses] Potted for viewing. Suitable for decorating the living room and study.Rohdea japonica (Figure 3)
Decorative application: Small potted young plants can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium potted plants can be placed in a corner of the living room or beside the sofa as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality.
Light: Tolerates semi-shade, avoids excessively strong sunlight, but too dark a light will also cause the leaves to fade.
Water: Likes moisture, and during the growing period from March to August needs more watering. In summer, water frequently to increase environmental humidity.
Temperature: Likes high temperature, not cold-tolerant, suitable growth temperature 20-30°C. The minimum wintering temperature is above 12°C. Once frozen, the leaves turn yellow and wilt, and the terminal bud dies.
Fertilizer: During the growing period, apply nitrogen fertilizer monthly to promote rapid growth, and from March to August apply fertilizer solution once every two weeks. Reduce fertilization after autumn.
Soil: Requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
Propagation: Cuttings. Can be done in spring and summer; take 10-15 cm long young shoots, insert into yellow sand medium, roots form in 20-30 days, then transplant into new pots according to plant size.
Ornithogalum caudatum
Brief introduction: Ornithogalum caudatum is native to southern Africa. It likes sunlight and also tolerates semi-shade, is cold-tolerant, fears direct sunlight in summer, likes a humid environment, and after heavy frost in winter the leaf cluster still remains verdant. The bulb has a habit of summer dormancy, and the bulb has strong division ability and a high propagation coefficient.
Propagation: Commonly by bulb division and sowing. Natural bulb division propagation: dig up the bulbs in August-September, grade them by size and plant; after one planting, wait several years until the bulbs become crowded before dividing again. Sowing propagation: seedlings need 3-4 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
Cultivation: Grows robustly, tolerates extensive management, fertilize once every half month, and the soil should be loose, moist and well-drained. After flowering, remove the spent flower stems, and the next year's flowering will be more abundant. The bulb storage temperature is 25°C, requiring dry and ventilated conditions.Rohdea japonica (Figure 4)
Pests and diseases: There is damage from mosaic disease, and the virus is spread by aphids; it can be controlled by spraying with 2.5% rotenone extract at 800 times dilution.
Application: Ornithogalum caudatum blooms from mid-April to early May, with white, orange and double-flowered types. In spring, the star-shaped white flowers sparkle, elegant and simple; it is an excellent material for arranging natural-style gardens and rock gardens, and is also suitable for cut flowers and potted viewing.
Aglaonema modestum
Also called Liang Si Cao.
It is a perennial herb of Araceae, plant height 60-70 cm, stem erect and unbranched, internodes obvious.
Leaves alternate, petioles long, base expanded into a sheath, leaves green, long lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate. Blooms in autumn, inflorescence axillary, shorter than the petiole.
Its leaves are broad and glossy, verdant throughout the four seasons, and especially shade-tolerant; it can be cut to make foliage bonsai or as a foil for flower arrangements, decorating the environment, and can also be used for potting to accent halls and rooms.
Chinese Rohdea japonica
Chinese Rohdea japonica, known since ancient times, verdant as if about to drip and evergreen throughout the four seasons, with orange-red abundant fruit that does not wither in winter, is regarded among the people as a symbol of good fortune and wishes coming true, and is widely cultivated across the north and south. In the north, it is potted and can be placed indoors for viewing in all four seasons. Rohdea japonica is a perennial herbaceous flower of the genus Rohdea in Liliaceae. Underground it has a short, thick rhizome, and leaves grow in clusters from the top of the rhizome, band-shaped or oblanceolate; the scape is relatively short, emerging from the leaf cluster, with a terminal spike, small white densely packed flowers, and spherical orange-red berries; the flowering period is June to July, and in the north potted plants rarely bear fruit, so they are mainly grown for foliage. The genus Rohdea is native to China, with only this one species; varieties include golden-edged Rohdea japonica, silver-edged Rohdea japonica, Dieffenbachia, as well as large-leaf, fine-leaf and dwarf cultivars.Rohdea japonica (Figure 5)
Also commonly cultivated is Aglaonema modestum, alias Zhu Jie Wan Nian Qing, a perennial herbaceous flower of Araceae, native to South China, Southwest China, India to Malaysia; it shares the name Wan Nian Qing with Rohdea japonica but belongs to a different family and genus. Its varieties include the four queens: Gold, Silver, Jade and Beauty. The leaf colors are inlaid like gold and jade, brilliantly variegated, all ranking among today's outstanding indoor ornamental flowers. Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum are potted plants, requiring humus-rich, loose, fertile, slightly acidic growing soil; they like high temperature and high humidity, are not cold-tolerant, and must not overwinter below 50°C. They like shade and avoid strong direct light; in winter they can be placed in a sunny spot, and in summer they should be shaded, avoiding soaking by rain. Chinese Rohdea japonica is mainly propagated by division. Aglaonema modestum is mainly propagated by cuttings, preferably in March or from September to October. Aglaonema modestum can also have 8 cm long stem sections cut and soaked in clear water until roots form before planting, or be grown in water in a glass vessel to enjoy the leaves and roots, lasting a long time without withering. If you want the leaf color to be deep green, in spring and autumn apply a mixed solution of 0.2% urea and 0.1% monopotassium phosphate once or twice.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum should have their pots turned and soil changed once every two to three years in early spring; after repotting, place them in a warm, humid, shaded place, and frequently mist the leaves and surrounding environment to keep them moist. In the Beijing area, after mid-May they can be placed under a shade shed outdoors, and brought indoors in early October, placed in a spot with fresh air and no smoke or dust pollution.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum are potted plants, requiring humus-rich, loose, fertile, slightly acidic growing soil; they like high temperature and high humidity, are not cold-tolerant, and must not overwinter below 50°C. They like shade and avoid strong direct light; in winter they can be placed in a sunny spot, and in summer they should be shaded, avoiding soaking by rain.
Chinese Rohdea japonica is mainly propagated by division. Aglaonema modestum is mainly propagated by cuttings, preferably in March or from September to October. Aglaonema modestum can also have 8 cm long stem sections cut and soaked in clear water until roots form before planting, or be grown in water in a glass vessel to enjoy the leaves and roots, lasting a long time without withering. If you want the leaf color to be deep green, in spring and autumn apply a mixed solution of 0.2% urea and 0.1% monopotassium phosphate once or twice.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum should have their pots turned and soil changed once every two to three years in early spring; after repotting, place them in a warm, high-temperature, shaded place, and frequently mist the leaves and surrounding environment to keep them moist. In the Beijing area, after mid-May they can be placed under a shade shed outdoors, and brought indoors in early October, placed in a spot with fresh air and no smoke or dust pollution.Tradescantia spathacea (Moses-in-the-cradle)
Rhoeo discolor alias: Bang Lan, Zi Wan Nian Qing, Zi Jin Lan, Commelinaceae
Rhoeo discolor is native to Mexico and the West Indies
It is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant. Leaves lanceolate, green on the upper side with streaks of varying shades, purple-red on the underside, also with streaks of varying shades of purple-red (see figure). Stems and leaves somewhat succulent. Flowering period August-October, tends to set seed easily. Small flowers white, because the flowers grow within two purple-red boat-shaped large bracts, resembling a mussel shell spitting out pearls, so it is also called "mussel flower."
Its leaves have different colors on the two sides, verdant and bright with variations, with a moderate plant shape and graceful form; the red bracts contain many jade-white small flowers, with obvious color contrast, peculiar and interesting, presenting the scene of a mussel shell spitting out pearls, very rarely seen and never tiring to look at.
Tradescantia spathacea likes semi-shade and humid environments, prefers fertile, loose sandy loam, is relatively drought-tolerant, fears exposure to the sun, and is afraid of cold; growth stops at 10°C, so overwintering above 10°C is best.
It has fairly good shade tolerance and also a strong ability to adapt to dry climates, thus becoming an excellent foliage plant for indoor cultivation in both the north and south of China. It can be placed long-term in a bright living room; if the room is relatively dark, it is best to replace it about every 20 days.
Propagation is mainly by sowing. The tiny seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected, sprouting in half a month, and the seedlings can be transplanted when they reach 3-5 cm in height. They can also be propagated by cuttings in spring and autumn. Cut off the leafy top portion, insert it into sandy soil, place it in the shade, and avoid overwatering; roots form in about 20 days, and normal care resumes once new leaves grow. The remaining old stems can also send out new shoots.
Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia
Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia is also called Giant Dieffenbachia,Lucky Plant (Rohdea japonica) (Figure 6)
Dumb Cane, a perennial herb of the Araceae family, has a cylindrical, fleshy stem often marked with white rings, which are the scars left after the leaves fall. The leaves of the zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia are oblong-elliptical, with irregular white or pale yellow spots and stripes scattered on both sides of the green midrib, making them especially elegant and refined, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia.
Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia is native to Colombia and likes a warm, humid climate. Its optimum growing temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and the indoor temperature in winter should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potting soil, mix 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam and 1 part sand. Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia likes a semi-shaded environment and dislikes direct sunlight, so it can be grown indoors all year round. It tolerates moisture, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, filled with water so that moisture continuously seeps into the potting soil through the small holes in the bottom of the pot.
Propagation and Cultivation
[Propagation]
Both sowing and division propagation are possible.Lucky Plant (Rohdea japonica) (Figure 7)
。
The berries of the lucky plant ripen in December. Once ripe, they can be sown immediately into potting soil made of equal parts fine sand and leaf mold, and the pot covered with glass or plastic film to maintain soil moisture, temperature and light. If the temperature is kept at 20°C, they will germinate in 20-30 days. When the seedlings grow to 3-4 leaves, they can be divided and potted separately.
(1) Division method: Division method: The lucky plant's underground stems have strong sprouting ability. In spring and autumn, use a sharp knife to cut off the newly sprouted shoots at the rhizome together with some lateral roots, coat the wounds with plant ash, plant them in pots, water lightly, place in the shade, and after 1-2 days water thoroughly. Alternatively, turn the whole plant out of the pot, and depending on the size of the plant, use a sharp tool to divide it into several parts; let the wounds dry for a day or coat them with plant ash, then pot them up and manage as described above.
(2) Sowing method: Sowing is generally done between March and April. Sow in a flower pot filled with prepared potting soil, water, then place temporarily in the shade, keep moist, and under conditions of 25-30°C, germination occurs in about 25 days.
[Cultivation and Management]
For potted lucky plants, a sandy loam rich in humus is suitable as potting soil. A soil pH of 6-6.5 is more conducive to fully utilizing the effectiveness of nutrients and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in April or October-November. When repotting, remove aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in fertilized acidic cultivation soil. After potting, place in the shade for a few days.
The key points of cultivating the lucky plant are: warmth, humidity and semi-shade. As it grows vigorously in summer, it needs to be placed in the shade to avoid strong light, otherwise the leaf tips easily dry out and the edges scorch, affecting its ornamental effect. Therefore, after being moved outdoors in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves or in a shaded spot on the balcony.Lucky Plant (Rohdea japonica) (Figure 8)
The lucky plant has fleshy roots and is most afraid of waterlogging, so it should not be watered too much, otherwise root rot easily occurs. Normally, just water the potting soil moderately; water only when the potting soil is dry, and it is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent. However, the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, adverse phenomena such as dry leaf tips are also likely to occur. In summer, sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to protect it from heavy rain, especially during the flowering period when it must not be rained on; place it in a shaded, dry, ventilated place sheltered from rain.
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every 20 days or so; in early summer when growth is more vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10 days or so, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing, which promotes better growth and makes the leaves dark green and glossy. In the vigorous flowering months of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once every 15 days or so to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting.
In addition, around the Beginning of Summer, several old leaves on the outer part of mature plants should be cut off to encourage the sprouting of new shoots, new leaves and the emergence of flower stalks.
In winter, the lucky plant needs to be moved indoors for the winter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated spot with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, the leaves tend to grow leggy and consume large amounts of nutrients, leading to weak growth the following year and affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If the lucky plant develops yellow, scorched leaf tips in winter, or even the whole plant withers, it is mainly caused by the roots being unable to absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter the air should also be kept humid and the potting soil slightly moist; generally watering 1-2 times a week is suitable. In addition, rinse the leaves once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and evergreen all year round.
Cultivation Key Points
Warmth, humidity and semi-shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill or outdoors in a shaded spot, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves easily scorch. Besides watering adequately, every morning and evening water should be sprinkled on the groundLucky Plant (Rohdea japonica) (Figure 9)
around the flower pot to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water too much; when the surface of the potting soil turns pale, that is the right time to water. Apply liquid fertilizer once every half month. In the north, after being brought indoors in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it easily leads to chilling, leaf drop and death. In winter, rinse the leaf surface once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being contaminated by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh and beautiful.
Cultivation Precautions
1. Planting: Plant in spring or repot and change the soil. It is not strict about soil, but fears waterlogging, and when planted in the ground or in pots it dislikes hard clay and alkaline soil. For potting, generally use a mixture of leaf mold and sand; in the south it can be potted or grown in the open ground, while in the north it needs greenhouse cultivation. Change the soil once a year, repot once every 2 years, and replenish with new fertile soil.
2. Light and temperature: The lucky plant likes a semi-shaded environment and fears direct sunlight in summer. For greenhouse cultivation, shade more than 60% in spring, summer and autumn, and 40% in winter. Too strong light easily causes sunscald, while too weak light makes it difficult to flower and fruit. The suitable growing temperature is 15-18°C. In winter it goes dormant and is brought into the greenhouse, placed in a sunny spot with the temperature kept above 10°C, and the minimum temperature must not fall below 5°C. In the Yangtze River basin it can overwinter in the open ground; although the leaves may suffer frost damage, new leaves can still sprout again the following year.
3. Watering and fertilizing: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days. In summer, strengthen ventilation, prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature, and supply water adequately, keeping the potting soil moist and the surrounding air humid. In summer, water 1-2 times a day. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.
4. Shaping and pruning: To maintain a good plant shape and enhance ornamental value, as the plant grows, promptly prune the yellow leaves, damaged leaves and some old leaves at the lower part of the plant. When grown as a houseplant, wipe the leaves with a soft cloth dipped in beer, which both removes dust and adds nutrients to the leaves, making them glossy green and clean.
Care Knowledge
Key Points for Caring for Chinese Evergreen
It is an evergreen herbaceous plant of the Araceae family and the genus Aglaonema, also known as Chinese Evergreen. The stem is upright, 40 cm to 50 cm tall. The leaves are ovate to ovate-lanceolate, with a blunt base and a gradually pointed tip. The inflorescence emerges from the lower sheath, and the spathe is small and green. It is produced in southwestern and southern China, and is also distributed from India to Malaysia. It likes a warm, humid, lightly shaded environment. For potting, a loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drainedLucky Plant (Rohdea japonica) (Figure 10)
slightly acidic soil is suitable. It is not cold-tolerant, with an overwintering temperature of 5°C to 8°C. The leaf surface needs frequent misting, and the potting soil should be kept moist regularly. Propagation is mainly by cuttings, which root very easily at 25°C, and division can also be used. Chinese Evergreen is very well suited to indoor environments; it can be potted or placed in a vase, where it keeps growing and remains unfading for a long time. Common famous varieties include: Aglaonema commutatum 'Java', with a short stem, branching at the base, ovate leaves with white spots and white veins. Aglaonema commutatum 'Variegatum', shrub-like, with irregular bright green or grayish-white markings on the leaf surface. Aglaonema commutatum 'Yellow', with white stems marked with green lines and branching. The leaf surface has irregular yellow-brown markings, and the spathe is greenish-white. These three Aglaonema varieties are not cold-tolerant, and the suitable overwintering temperature should not be lower than 18°C.
Key Points for Caring for Spotted Dieffenbachia
The leaves of the spotted Dieffenbachia bear numerous irregular white or pale yellow spots, with bright coloration and evergreen foliage all year round. Water: likes moisture. Water more in summer, but avoid waterlogging, and mist the leaf surface frequently. Reduce watering in winter. Do not let it be rained on during the flowering period.
Fertilizer: It has low fertilizer requirements. Apply base fertilizer when repotting; generally no additional fertilizing is needed.
Soil: It is highly adaptable, but a loose, well-aerated, slightly acidic loam is most suitable.
Temperature: In northern regions it needs to overwinter indoors, while in the Jiangnan region it can overwinter in the open ground; above 5°C no frost damage occurs.
Light: Likes semi-shade and dislikes exposure to the sun. Indoors it should be placed in a ventilated spot with indirect light.
Propagation: Division propagation. In early spring, divide the sucker seedlings and plant them together with the roots; they survive easily. Sowing is also possible, but generally not used. Division can be done together with repotting; generally repot once a year, dividing the clustered plant into several clumps and cultivating them separately, with division once every 3 years.
How to Care for Purple-backed Lucky Plant
The purple-backed lucky plant, also called Purple Inch Plant, is an evergreen perennial herb of the Commelinaceae family, with broad lanceolate leaves arranged in a rosette on short stems; the leaf surface is smooth and dark green, and the leaf underside is dark purple; the flowers are axillary, with white flowers subtended by two mussel-shell-like purple bracts, and white long hairs on the filaments. It is a common indoor foliage plant.
This plant is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It likes a warm, humid climate and grows best in environments of 15-25°C. It likes light but also tolerates shade, fears scorching sun, and requires fertile soil with good water retention.
For the purple-backed lucky plant, the potting soil should preferably be a mix of 2 parts pond mud and 1 part peat. Because of its strong adaptability, management is relatively simple: apart from shading or placing it in semi-shade from May to October, it should be given ample light at other times; watering should err on the side of moisture rather than dryness, but it must not be overly wet or waterlogged, otherwise root rot will occur over time; when the weather is dry, mist frequently to keep the growing environment at relatively high air humidity; do not fertilize too much, and applying cake fertilizer water 1-2 times is enough. In winter, place it indoors in a humid spot, keep it at around 6-10°C, and keep the soil slightly moist; do not let it be too wet.
The purple-backed lucky plant is mostly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by cuttings or sowing. Division is usually carried out in spring together with repotting; the method is to cut the dense mother plant apart at the gaps with a sharp knife. Cuttings can be taken throughout the growing season: cut 7-10 cm from the stem tip, remove the lower leaves, insert into sand, keep moist, and roots form in about 2 weeks. Sowing is often done in pots in April; after emergence the seedlings grow rapidly. When the seedlings reach about an inch long, transplant them promptly, and by autumn of that year they can grow into full, bushy plants.
Care of Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia
Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia is native to Colombia and likes a warm, humid climate. Its optimum growing temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and the indoor temperature in winter should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potting soil, mix 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam and 1 part sand. Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia likes a semi-shaded environment and dislikes direct sunlight, so it can be grown indoors all year round. It tolerates moisture, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, filled with water so that moisture continuously seeps into the potting soil through the small holes in the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be restricted, and the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter some leaves may turn yellow and drop, but as long as they are not frost-damaged, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If it is kept indoors for the winter and grows weakly with a tendency to become leggy, it can be placed outdoors in semi-shade for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors once its vigor recovers. Fertilizing can be done during the growing season, depending on its growth vigor, once or twice a month, applying more decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote green, lush leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.
Its "flower" is the typical spathe-and-spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or never sets seed, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically vegetative, with the main methods being tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method involves cutting the old stems into 10-15 cm segments in spring and inserting them obliquely into sandy soil, keeping them moist, and transplanting them into pots after they root and grow leaves; alternatively, in the peak growing season, cut the stems into small segments with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, let them dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then plant them directly in pots, keep moist, and they will soon root and grow leaves. You can also cut leafy stem segments and insert them into a transparent glass water bottle, fixing them with white rice-stone used for architectural decoration; in about half a month you can see them grow pure white, jade-like adventitious roots, so you can enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, be careful during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth or eyes. There are more than 30 varieties in the same genus as the zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia, which also have certain ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves bearing elegant, beautiful markings and luster, a tall plant and sturdy stems; it is an ideal indoor ornamental specimen.
Care of Spotted Dieffenbachia
The leaves of the spotted Dieffenbachia bear numerous irregular white or pale yellow spots, with bright coloration and evergreen foliage all year round.
The key points of its cultivation are: warmth, humidity and semi-shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill or outdoors in a shaded spot, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves easily scorch. Besides watering adequately, every morning and evening water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water too much; when the surface of the potting soil turns pale, that is the right time to water. Apply liquid fertilizer once every half month.
In the north, after being brought indoors in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it easily leads to chilling, leaf drop and death. In winter, rinse the leaf surface once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being contaminated by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh and beautiful.
Related Questions
What are the management key points for potted lucky plants?
For potted lucky plants, a sandy loam rich in humus is suitable as potting soil. A soil pH of 6-6.5 is more conducive to fully utilizing the effectiveness of nutrients and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in April or October-November. When repotting, remove aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in fertilized acidic cultivation soil. After potting, place in the shade for a few days.
The key points of cultivating the lucky plant are: warmth, humidity and semi-shade. As it grows vigorously in summer, it needs to be placed in the shade to avoid strong light, otherwise the leaf tips easily dry out and the edges scorch, affecting its ornamental effect. The lucky plant has fleshy roots and is most afraid of waterlogging, so it should not be watered too much, otherwise root rot easily occurs. Normally, just water the potting soil moderately; water only when the potting soil is dry, and it is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent. In summer, sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to protect it from heavy rain.
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every 20 days or so; in early summer when growth is more vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10 days or so, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing, which promotes better growth and makes the leaves dark green and glossy. In the vigorous flowering months of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once every 15 days or so to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting. During the flowering period it must not be rained on; place it in a shaded, dry, ventilated place sheltered from rain.
In winter, the lucky plant needs to be moved indoors for the winter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated spot with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, the leaves tend to grow leggy and consume large amounts of nutrients, leading to weak growth the following year and affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If the lucky plant develops yellow, scorched leaf tips in winter, or even the whole plant withers, it is mainly caused by the roots being unable to absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter the air should also be kept humid and the potting soil slightly moist; generally watering 1-2 times a week is suitable. In addition, rinse the leaves once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and evergreen all year round.
How to keep the lucky plant from dropping its fruit?
The fruit of the lucky plant often does not set easily. How can it be made to set fruit?
① Do not water too frequently; water only when the potting soil is dry. Better to keep it on the dry side than too wet.
② Do not let it be rained on during flowering; place it in a cool, ventilated place sheltered from rain.
③ Do not fertilize too much; applying winter fertilizer once a year is enough.
④ There must be an environment for snails to carry pollen.
If the above four points can be achieved, fruit can generally be expected. It flowers from May to June and the fruit ripens in September-October. Under normal conditions, the fruit does not drop throughout the winter.
How to keep lucky plant leaves evergreen?
The lucky plant likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment, and dislikes direct strong light in summer. The key to growing lucky plants well is to avoid direct strong light in summer when the weather is hot and the sunlight is intense. Otherwise, the leaf tips easily dry out and the edges scorch or even turn yellow, affecting the ornamental effect.
Therefore, after being moved outdoors in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves or in a shaded spot on the balcony, and care should be taken to protect it from rain. Regarding watering, apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent, and watering should be controlled in winter. The lucky plant has fleshy roots, so it is most afraid of waterlogging; if watered too much, root rot easily occurs. However, the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, adverse phenomena such as dry leaf tips are also likely to occur.
In spring and autumn, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 3-4 weeks, which keeps the plant growing robustly and the leaves green. In addition, around the Beginning of Summer, several old leaves on the outer part of mature plants should be cut off to encourage the sprouting of new shoots, new leaves and the emergence of flower stalks.
How to handle spotted Dieffenbachia after cold damage?
When the winter temperature is below 5°C, spotted Dieffenbachia is highly prone to cold damage, and if not managed promptly it can die. So how should corresponding measures be taken after cold damage?
Slight cold damage: The leaf surface loses its proper luster, and the leaves droop as if dehydrated. At this point, move the spotted Dieffenbachia to a warmer place so it gradually returns to normal. Note that the temperature must not rise abruptly after the damage, to avoid wilting of the leaves.
Mild cold damage: Besides drooping, the leaves develop cold-damage patches resembling scalding by boiling water. To handle, cut off the cold-damaged patches on the leaves and move the plant to a warm place.
Moderate cold damage: Most of the leaves develop cold patches, and the petioles develop water-soaked patches and lose their green color. At this point, cut off the leaves together with the petioles, smear the wounds with plant ash or coal ash, then place in a warm spot, control watering appropriately, and let it slowly return to normal.
Severe cold damage: The young branches and new leaves lose their green color, showing water-soaked patches, and the underground root system is damaged by cold and rots. The remedy is to promptly dig up the plant, cut off the underground parts, and cut off the damaged branches and stems; after smearing the wounds with plant ash, store them in moist plain sand and take cuttings in early spring. If severe cold damage occurs and disease spots appear on the whole plant, the hope of saving it is very slim, and replacing the plant should be considered.
Pest and Disease Control
During the growing period, the lucky plant is susceptible to leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, brown soft scale and other damage.
(1) Leaf spot. This disease occurs on the leaves of the lucky plant, and is prone to occur in humid weather. The lesions first appear as small brown spots, with a water-soaked, faded-green margin, expanding in concentric rings, round to oval, with brown edges and a grayish-white center. Later, blackish-brown mold spots appear in the center of the lesions, becoming a blackish-brown mold layer under humid conditions. The method to control this disease is to promptly remove diseased and dead leaves; both in the early and late stages of the disease, spray with 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 50% carbendazim 1000x dilution).
(2) Anthracnose. This disease also occurs on the leaves of the lucky plant, and in severe cases can spread to the petioles. The lesions first appear as water-soaked small yellow spots, which after expansion become oval to irregular brown or yellow-brown, slightly showing concentric rings; later the lesions merge into a dry, withered appearance and produce small black dots arranged in concentric rings. This disease is mainly caused by poor ventilation, and the presence of scale insect damage favors its occurrence. The method to control this disease is to strengthen care and apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 0.3%-0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture (or 60% zineb 800-900x dilution, or 70% thiophanate 1500x dilution).
(3) Brown soft scale. This insect has complex feeding habits and can harm many plants, and the lucky plant is one of the flowers it damages. When the brown soft scale harms plants, it generally gathers in groups on the leaf surface or young leaves, piercing and sucking the plant sap, while excreting sticky liquid; its excrement easily causes massive reproduction of sooty mold fungi, turning the stems and leaves black, affecting the plant's photosynthesis, causing weak growth and yellow, withered leaves, and impairing its ornamental value. In severe cases, the branches and stems are covered with the insects, causing the plant to turn yellow and wither, affecting growth.
Control methods: ① If there are few affected plants or few insects, simply scrape off the insects with a bamboo strip or similar; ② During the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate EC 1000x dilution (or 40% omethoate EC 1000x dilution), and spraying with 5% phosmet EC 1000x dilution can also kill them.
Geranium Bacterial Leaf Spot
[Distribution] Jiangsu, Zhejiang and other places.
[Symptoms] At the initial stage of the leaf disease, water-soaked small spots appear on the underside of the leaves. After 2-3 days the lesions slightly sink and become small brown spots, pinhead-sized, round or irregular, later gradually expanding into dark brown or reddish-brown round or irregular lesions, 1.5-3.0 mm in diameter, with the lesions slightly showing concentric rings and a faded zone around the margin. Many spots can occur on a single leaf, especially on the older lower leaves, where there are even more spots. The lesions expand and gradually merge together, and the veins and petioles also turn brown, causing most of the leaf to die; the stem symptom is called black rot, with the vascular bundles of the diseased stems and branches turning brown to black. At this point, the leaves on the stems wither, showing angular necrosis symptoms; subsequently the bacteria invade the pith and cortex, leaving only a few leaf clusters at the tip of the branches, and the entire stem turns black, shrivels and rots. When cuttings are affected, they cannot root, and slowly rot from the base upward, with the leaves withering and showing angular necrosis.
[Pathogen] The pathogen is a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris pv. pelargonii of the class Eubacteria, order Eubacteriales, genus Xanthomonas, with a rounded, rod-shaped apex and a single polar flagellum. Its optimum growth and development temperature is 25-27°C, minimum 1°C, and lethal temperature 51-51.5°C.
[Disease pattern] The bacterium can spread via cuttings, contact and splashing water droplets, and seeds may possibly carry and spread the bacterium; in moist soil the pathogen can survive for 3 months; in greenhouse cultivation, dense planting and rapid growth make the disease more severe, older lower leaves of the plant are more severely affected, and it is more severe when warm and humid; high nitrogen, high phosphorus and low calcium favor the disease, while high potassium, low phosphorus and high calcium suppress the symptoms. Different species and varieties of geranium differ in disease resistance; among geranium varieties, Pelargonium grandiflorum is highly resistant, Pelargonium graveolens is moderately resistant, and Pelargonium peltatum is highly susceptible. Some plants of the Geraniaceae family are asymptomatic carriers of the bacterium.
[Control Methods]
(1) Horticultural control: Ensure ventilation and light penetration between plants, and avoid excessively high humidity; do not spray water directly onto plants, to avoid spreading the disease through splashing water droplets; do not take cuttings from diseased plants; remove all diseased leaves and branches, and avoid contaminating leaves with bacterium-carrying soil. Diseased soil must be centrally treated, and if necessary, sterilize the soil and flower pots. The pathogen can survive in the soil on propagation beds, so avoid splashing diseased soil onto healthy plants. Spray Bordeaux mixture once every 10-15 days for prevention.
(2) Chemical control: Spray with agricultural streptomycin 1000 units, or try 14% copper ammonia complex 300x dilution, or 50% sterilizing agent 1000x dilution.
(3) Thoroughly remove all diseased plants and diseased residues. Soak and disinfect flower pots, planting benches and tools with 10% bleaching powder solution, disinfect the soil with 2% formalin solution, or replace it with new soil. Use disease-free seedlings.
(4) Before and after the disease occurs, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture or (500-1000) x 0.000001 agricultural streptomycin, several times in succession.
Uses and Culture
[Landscape Application] Because the lucky plant's leaves are broad and verdant,and its berries are bright red and round, it is very beautiful, and has long been a flower valued for both its foliage and its fruit.
Its elegant and graceful leaf form means it is often placed on the long tables of studies and halls, or beneath long scrolls of calligraphy and painting; in autumn and winter, paired with red berries, it adds even more color.
[Other Uses] The rhizome and leaves can be used as medicine; see below for details.
[Brief History of Cultivation and Culture] It has a long history of cultivation in China. Because its name and fruit color (red) are auspicious, it has through the ages often been a symbol of wealth, good fortune, peace and longevity, and is deeply loved by people.
The Qing dynasty work "Hua Jing" records: "People use its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune; when building a house, moving residence, sending betrothal gifts, managing a pond, or when a child is first born, it is used in all happy events."
The Flower Language of the Lucky Plant
The flower language of the lucky plant: health, longevity.
The lucky plant is suitable for accenting living rooms and studies. Decorative application: small potted young plants can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium-sized potted plants can be placed in the corner of a living room or beside a sofa as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality. It is famous for its unique air-purifying ability: it can remove nicotine and formaldehyde. The higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability!
Brief Introduction to the Medicinal Herb
[Medicinal name] Lucky Plant (Rohdea japonica)
[Aliases] Zhan She Jian, Dong Bu Tiao Cao, Tie Bian Dan, Jiu Jie Lian
[Source] It is the plant Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth. of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, with the rhizome or whole plant used as medicine. Dig up the rhizome in autumn, wash it, remove the fibrous roots, and use it fresh or slice and dry it in the sun. The whole plant is used fresh and can be collected in all four seasons.
[Source Morphology]
Perennial evergreen herb. Rhizome short and thick. Leaves basal, broadly strap-shaped, thickly leathery. In spring and summer, a dense spike forms on the scape; the perianth is connate, spherical-bell-shaped, with six lobes that are not very obvious, fleshy, pale yellow or brown; six stamens; ovary spherical, stigma three-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red when ripe. Produced in China and Japan; commonly cultivated in southwestern, central and eastern China.
[Nature, Flavor and Meridian Tropism] Bitter, sweet, cold. Slightly toxic.
[Functions and Indications] Clears heat and detoxifies, strengthens the heart and promotes diuresis. Used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, rabid dog bites, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease; externally used to treat traumatic injuries, venomous snake bites, burns and scalds, mastitis, and carbuncles and furuncles.
[Usage and Dosage] Rhizome 3-5 qian; leaves 1-2 qian; for external use an appropriate amount, pounded to extract the juice and applied to the affected area, or pounded and applied as a poultice.
Lucky Plant - Various Commentaries
1. "Hua Jing": The lucky plant, also called yun. Broad leaves growing in clusters, dark green, not withering in winter or summer. Many households in Wu plant it, using its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune. When building a house, moving residence, sending betrothal gifts, or when a child is first born, it is used in all happy events, as an auspicious slogan; as for marriage betrothal gifts, even if the living plant is not used, silk or brocade is cut and fashioned in its likeness to replace it. Together with auspicious grass, scallion and pine, the four are arranged together in a pot, which is also a conventional practice. Planting method: at the spring and autumn equinoxes, divide and plant in pots, and place in a shady spot. It is commonly said: April is the birthday of the immortals, so old leaves should be trimmed and thrown onto the main road for people to trample, and then the new leaves will certainly grow abundantly. It likes to be earthed up with fertile soil, and watered with cold tea.
2. "Gang Mu Shi Yi": In Zhejiang, weddings often use it to accompany gift boxes, taking its evergreen nature throughout the four seasons, with the meaning of eternal spring. {Note}: Among plants also used medicinally as lucky plant is the same-genus plant Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth var. variegata Hort., mostly cultivated.
Lucky Plant - Poisoning Symptoms
About 1 hour after excessive internal use, symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision and fatigue appear; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a feeling of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat and decreased blood pressure occur; in severe cases the patient becomes restless, with convulsions, coma and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block and junctional rhythm, etc. Due to extreme weakness, the patient develops delirium, the heart shows complete atrioventricular block, and even death may occur.
Rescue methods: For rescue methods and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A therapeutic diagnostic test with potassium salts can also be done: add 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and complete intravenous drip infusion over 2 hours while closely observing the heart. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine antidotes are as follows:
1. Ginseng 9g, dwarf lilyturf root 9g, schisandra berry 6g, decoct twice in water, combine the decoctions, and take in 2 divided doses.
2. Licorice 15g, mung bean 30g, decoct in water and take in 2 divided doses.
3. Add an appropriate amount of white sugar to strong tea and drink it frequently.
Omoto Niangi (Rohdea japonica) - Plant Identification
1. Macroscopic identification: The rhizome is cylindrical, 5-18cm long, 1.5-2.5cm in diameter. The surface is grayish-yellow, wrinkled, with dense wavy nodes, scattered with round dot-like root scars, and sometimes retaining fibrous roots of varying lengths; at the apex, stem scars and leaf scars may sometimes be visible. The texture is somewhat tough, and the broken surface is uneven, yellow-white (sun-dried product) or light brown to brownish-red (oven-dried product), slightly spongy, with scattered small yellow vascular bundle dots. The odor is slight, and the taste is bitter and pungent. Those of uniform size and white color are considered the best.
2. Microscopic identification: Transverse section of the rhizome: several layers of cork cells. The cortex is relatively broad, and some cells contain bundles of calcium oxalate needle crystals; the endodermis is distinct. The vascular bundles of the stele are of the amphivasal and collateral types, scattered, with the vascular bundles near the endodermis denser and almost arranged in a ring.
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